Projecting Tactics For a Weak Climber

the best way to find out if this works

is well the best way i can find out is

test it on somebody else and then you'll

get loads of comments

[Music]

come on

come on come on

no

wow you were holding it

alright welcome to part two of heart is

easy where in first episode i took

lattice training performance assessment

and my performance wasn't let's say

much of a performance

so how weak are my fingers good question

so in half crimp we are coming in around

110 and typically what we're seeing for

for the 7c level in sport climbing is

around 150 body weight so i'm like

really far from

7c climber it's quite it's quite far out

so if you want to see the full

assessment it's in this video and if you

want to see how somebody weak like me

can climb hard roots easy it's in this

video but jokes aside of course what's

hard or easy it's very subjective

however i thought i'm gonna share with

you my projecting tactics and maybe you

will find something useful

now in case you missed the previous

episode this is charlie to the right you

see that yeah he has one pad more rich

on each side and he's smaller he has

just more room so this is like monkey in

action i swear bolder and does it though

you'll get longer arms

okay

it's a nice joke

that is a really nice hold

come on

and it's looking like the only nice hole

weak climber projecting rule number one

don't climb first save your energy let

your friend to put the quick draws for

you and find those nice holes so you can

stay happily weak and if you don't know

how to convince your friend to go first

here is an example will you put your

dress yourself or you need our help

i don't need your help

i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on

myself lately i went always climbing

with guys who weren't that gentlemanish

wait so you're giving draws to somebody

else

no no hannah said before that she keeps

putting the drawers blah

blah i i just said you don't have to

so this actually was the crux of the

route

where you have to be either very strong

or very creative

okay

[Music]

no

we're still on site

wow

so for the right hand you have this

slippery crimpy hold which is really not

good

and then the next hold is quite far off

and this is hana trying the same move

the next hold is this crimpy side pull

right here

okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta

yeah i'm going to come into this one

beta beta but

i don't know what's correct

come on

that is a killer so after trying to

brute force the crux in many different

ways

no way dude no way charlie finally came

up with idea how to do it

which was to kick the left leg to the

wall and do a drop knee yeah come on

so not very obvious but such a fun move

right leg up

and left leg kicks into the wall

that's what you need to do

drop me

[Laughter]

if you actually drop me more you will

not need to use passat yet

save it for later

you always need two percent

so that's actually not always the case

oftentimes it's more about understanding

the move yeah now the feet up up up and

kick

yeah and kick

and drop knee drop knees stay close to

the wall

that's it that's it

i cannot drop anymore

yeah

so we analyzed these moves in the

evening and this is what happened the

next day

what the [ __ ] this was easy

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now change the drop knee to other side

and right arm up

yeah

yeah

okay

so this left leg ninja move unlocked the

first half of the crux

however

it's not over yet

right leg up

all right since weak climbers we have

very limited amount of energy rule

number two is to save it

okay take me here

see how weak people solve problems

so instead of trying the moves from get

go sometimes it's actually better to

take and get yourself familiar with the

holes search for hidden holes and

opportunities and since i saw charlie

already

i knew that i have to try this kick and

a drop knee

come on man okay take

and right away when i understand that

the move works i take to save the energy

and now i can try the moves that i

skipped now lower me a bit i want to see

if i can link

a bit more up so this is that

this and that this is that this and that

i mean okay

[Music]

whoa

you're good yeah i'm good i'm good

that's why we wear helmets

as a player

it broke

i think football

and the other one is also moving yeah

you need to step on another part

next i wanted to start from this rest

hold and see if i can do the kick and

the drop knee and the trick here was to

find which footholds will work for me

which i got lucky in the first go

critic

good

next so as you can see on a first go i'm

not even trying to climb big sections

continuously the reality about our

muscles is that the more

tired we get the more pumped we get the

longer it takes for them to recover so

they can deliver anywhere close to max

power and max power is what you need to

efficiently work out the hardest parts

of the route

now the fun part

from here

there also before i start a new section

it's very important to stand in exactly

the same position where i finished the

previous section if i don't do that it's

going to be very difficult to flow

between these different sections and

this is actually quite common mistake

okay

do this

if you can put a drawer in

no it's too far

don't pull me don't pull me okay

and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is

totally normal and every pro does that

[Laughter]

now a huge warning about grabbing quick

draws is that you should avoid grabbing

your quick draw below you because in

this case if you would take a fall

this can happen where you have a lot of

fall until you are in position where you

could potentially hold yourself but the

force will be so big that you might not

be able to hold on the sling your hand

will slip and the quick draw can

penetrate your palm i've seen pictures

it doesn't look fun okay climbing

all right next i wanted to link both

sections together to see how well the

transition between them flows

it was also a good time to focus a

little bit more on footwork this helps a

lot to remember your foot placements

and

potentially do less mistakes in the

future

thank you

nice okay so this is doable so now i

kind of don't have a plan apart from

stepping up high

and going into unknown

this is gonna be fun

i'm windy you climbing okay

[Music]

what the [ __ ]

so the final section of the crux was a

little mystery for me it was already

getting dark mama mia i don't know

what's next so yeah it's not only you

who cannot see much in this clip i'm

flying

and the only idea i was seeing is a huge

dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i

was not sure if that's the right oh my

god wait to do it

okay i'm falling

and after multiple attempts i realized

that i'm not gonna get to the top today

and that's okay

my only goal was to put the next quick

draw

nice

and come back the next day all right

good

what's the plan

i'm going to take it slow today

i'll say take a lot more mel

learning strategy from weak people

i think it's the best way climate

clipping

nice

easy

come on

yeah

yeah yeah

come on

yeah come on

no go for the tick mark come on

yeah

easy

oh

come on

some nice flying

oh well then that was easy this time you

have to be quick though after that move

all right fun time

this is a final part of the crux

which starts with two really good crimps

and a very big move

nice attempt

my foot just flipped

wow you were holding it

[Music]

boom boom

boom

[Music]

nice that's it

okay clipping

okay take

being more strategic today no yeah

definitely

and talking about the strategy here i

hang on the rope again not climbing but

inspecting the route searching for the

footholds and handholds

climbing i actually wanted to start just

a few moves before the big move to see

how my setup flows into the dino

[Music]

nice ben

[ __ ] so since this was the first time of

me in this position in daylight

obviously i didn't had the perfect beta

yet but it's okay the step one was just

to do whatever it takes to clip the next

quick draw that's it that's it

and then optimize

okay take me here i want to

find phone calls slopper

yeah this slopper is nice

so when obvious doesn't work you have to

try something else

while for me and charlie the dino was

working pretty well

hannah decided to climb around it i just

wanted to try

what the [ __ ]

maybe this is gonna work you could you

get left hand where your right is

somehow

nice

nice nice nice

above on the right

so we spent two half days projecting

this route and the goal for these first

two days was just to break and tire

route down into multiple sections

ideally from rest position to rest

position or in this case since this

route had very long and complicated crux

i decided to break down the crux into

multiple sections as well so while

entire route might look really long

intimidating and hard and complicated if

you start using divide and conquer

principle that will for sure become

easier so i go first because i don't

like to be stressed if you stand

and then i have to climb i feel more

stressy so i will sand and then you can

kill that

i don't think that's fair but i'll take

it

[Music]

i think it's okay i think it's okay

and so after working out the moves we

took few rest days and finally it was

time to deal with descending pressure

everything looks different in the sun

now you might be wondering why the hell

we are climbing in direct sun

well yes it's true that sun will make

the friction worse

however it was a relatively cold day and

i just wanted to treat the first go as a

warm-up without worrying about sending

too much so whatever happens happens

after very easy beginning you have a

mini cracks which starts with this mono

pocket or if you have tiny fingers like

me you can squeeze in two fingers

and then the next move is into tiny tiny

crimp

and you have to pull on it

so definitely not the smartest idea to

do such moves without a proper warm-up

or on a warm-up go in my case

however my strategy sometimes is to just

go for it but be very

observant of my body and if something

feels wrong

stop immediately i also knew that this

route has a lot of rests so i can warm

up on easier sections and then shake it

out during the rests

here you can see me

shaking on every single opportunity and

trying to recover as much as they can

because i knew that for the crux i need

100 of my energy so i try to stay as

calm as possible and rest longer than i

think i will need

in the dark creeps no come on you got it

[Music]

nice

[Music]

[Music]

[Applause]

nice

nice buddy

well done i'm not yet

so while it looks like it's done it's

actually far from it my forearms are

exploding i'm holding two crimps that

would be quite good however i'm so

pumped that they are far from being good

plus i know that my mind tends to go

into kind of tunnel vision when i get

really tired and it's really hard to

focus

so at the same time i'm waiting for the

clarity to come back i'm desperately

trying to find a better hold or better

body position that could allow me to

shake just a little bit more to

not rush me into the next moves yet

because i really don't want to mess up

here

i don't know how to swap arms

but since the holes are not that good to

rest on i knew that i have to start

thinking what's next and the next is the

left hand up so i decided to swap my

arms so my right arm stays on the better

part of the hold quick glance over the

footholds and hope for the best

nice dude

so a little camera teleportation magic

while i'm enjoying the last rest

and a final section which is not really

hard but a little bit tricky and tricky

is not that great when you are under

sending pressure

good trying

come on

come on dude

nice

so only few moves left but as a true

weak climber i couldn't miss an

opportunity for a good shake

notice that i'm not rushing to clip here

it's much better to shake it out first

get into a better position and only then

clip also notice my left leg i stepped

out of overhang as much as i can this

makes my position

way less overhanging and much better to

rest

and since i'm very close to sending my

sending pressure keeps going up and up

and up

and the trick is to

at least try to stay as calm as you can

[Music]

[Music]

how does that feel dude

[Music]

trying to get my

breath back back

um

it's even the easiest 7c i've ever

or

i got already stronger so till this

point it's been only two months of me

training with lattice guys so it's a bit

early to judge what kind of effect that

had on my climbing performance however

in next video i'm gonna show you how all

of my training looked like

and

some numbers but for now it's charlie's

time to send this 7c

[Music]

uh

[Music]

nice come on

[Music]

yeah come on

nice

[Music]

come on you got this

yeah come on

come on buddy

yeah come on

come on

[Music]

yeah come on

come on come on

knew it dude

you knew it i knew it you knew wrong

thanks yeah i almost lose my

feet yeah you need to work on the

section after this big move so well

classic mistake of not having the

perfect beta right after the hardest

move because that's charlie his send on

the first go

he tried to fix that and this is his

second goal for the day

[Music]

come on

[Music]

come on

come on

yeah

come on

yeah yeah come on come on

come on come on come on

no

man

but no cigar

but very very close

i really want to do it today though

that's the thing

so stress and pressure it's probably

inevitable to happen when you're trying

to push your max grade while sometimes

you might just get lucky and send most

of the time it's actually better to

allow yourself to fail just tell

yourself i'm gonna climb this route as

far as i can and if i fail that's okay

no i think you did this way too easy you

did this all this there's another aa

here now if your mind resists the idea

that failing is okay just keep pushing

through it because the reality is

whether you send or you don't

nothing is gonna change in your life

after every fail you're still alive

you're still surrounded by great friends

having great time

in action so by pushing through these

fails the pressure will start going

lower and lower and lower until it

becomes manageable and at some point

chances are that you are going to send

what is superglue apparently was made in

the

second world war to close wounds so we

are closing the wounds now

so we're closing wounds well the best

way to find out if this works

is uh well the best way i can find out

is test it on somebody else and then

you'll get loads of comments on saying

how to do it correctly

okay let's do it

let's do it

i suppose let's just do that there

okay

you think i should press it together or

just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't

know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going

i'll see you guys later so now you feel

like sending

yes i mean i stick to the wall now

you need to hold your finger up in the

wind

like this yeah yeah yeah

the wind's coming i know the answer

the wind's coming from that way though

now you know the answer it's getting

there it's getting there really

okay we wait we wait but then you can

sand it down and you can make the finger

you want

you can you can do it

you can have the perfect perfect this

sounds great can you also tell for

people to not do this yeah don't do it

i'm gonna give it one go hike or my

finger already hurts

[Music]

yeah yeah pink

nice

right leg up

[Music]

this move is not hard at all

[Music]

why don't you get rid of the tape

it's open again

oh really yeah

i would not climb

low on me let it heal

[ __ ]

i'm delay slave today

so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't

work at all

i have now

yeah so

real life is not always a movie although

you're kind of watching a movie

but at the same time you're watching a

real life

and real life doesn't always have a

happy ending

what happened

i'm not sure dude

this hole is so [ __ ] hard now

yummy

pressure

under pressure

under pressure yep as i already said

sometimes the best way to deal with

pressure

is to just let it beat you then stand up

and try again

it will make your mind much stronger not

only in climbing but in life as

well on

[Music]

[Applause]

come on you got this

yeah come on

[Music]

just need a moment yeah

i was like if he's gonna whip on this

clip

imagine that

oh i'm shaking dude

climb to a bit higher and then try to

rest here

yeah

this right hand side pull is really good

for resting

[Music]

okay

[Music]

okay enjoy

[Music]

thank you

[Music]

nice

come on

yeah

nice

[Music]

you are gonna fall now a danker

come on

that would suck wouldn't it

whoa

dude i was there just shaking away like

can like calm down calm down i couldn't

i couldn't i was like if i stay here any

longer i'm just making it worse like

but yeah it went nicely good run you too

dude well done good send as well good

balloon

really good playing in a

how did the harness feel yes super nice

like whoa you felt the difference yeah a

lot

why are you doing marketing to mommy

yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm

all right so he's not so i will since

mahmoud has been a huge support for my

channel i wanted to say special thank

you for that and the story behind the

harness is that we've been recording a

ton of delaying experiments and mel's

legs started hurting from flying all the

time that's for hurting your legs

so thank you mel for flying and mammoth

for supporting and in the next episode

we will jump on our first

8a come on

it's kind of beautiful here

you want to see

cool now

so as always

enjoy climbing

projecting

and

if you want some karma points you can

visit my website

that helps me to pay the bills

and see you in the next episode