0:00:00.000,0:00:02.320
the best way to find out if this works

0:00:02.320,0:00:04.400
is well the best way i can find out is

0:00:04.400,0:00:06.480
test it on somebody else and then you'll

0:00:06.480,0:00:07.760
get loads of comments

0:00:07.760,0:00:10.949
[Music]

0:00:13.920,0:00:17.160
come on

0:00:17.680,0:00:19.119
come on come on

0:00:19.119,0:00:21.359
no

0:00:21.439,0:00:24.560
wow you were holding it

0:00:26.160,0:00:28.960
alright welcome to part two of heart is

0:00:28.960,0:00:31.519
easy where in first episode i took

0:00:31.519,0:00:34.800
lattice training performance assessment

0:00:34.800,0:00:38.480
and my performance wasn't let's say

0:00:38.480,0:00:40.800
much of a performance

0:00:40.800,0:00:44.399
so how weak are my fingers good question

0:00:44.399,0:00:46.399
so in half crimp we are coming in around

0:00:46.399,0:00:49.120
110 and typically what we're seeing for

0:00:49.120,0:00:51.840
for the 7c level in sport climbing is

0:00:51.840,0:00:54.480
around 150 body weight so i'm like

0:00:54.480,0:00:56.480
really far from

0:00:56.480,0:00:59.280
7c climber it's quite it's quite far out

0:00:59.280,0:01:00.879
so if you want to see the full

0:01:00.879,0:01:03.280
assessment it's in this video and if you

0:01:03.280,0:01:06.000
want to see how somebody weak like me

0:01:06.000,0:01:08.799
can climb hard roots easy it's in this

0:01:08.799,0:01:11.119
video but jokes aside of course what's

0:01:11.119,0:01:13.040
hard or easy it's very subjective

0:01:13.040,0:01:14.960
however i thought i'm gonna share with

0:01:14.960,0:01:17.439
you my projecting tactics and maybe you

0:01:17.439,0:01:20.720
will find something useful

0:01:20.720,0:01:22.479
now in case you missed the previous

0:01:22.479,0:01:25.600
episode this is charlie to the right you

0:01:25.600,0:01:29.280
see that yeah he has one pad more rich

0:01:29.280,0:01:31.360
on each side and he's smaller he has

0:01:31.360,0:01:33.840
just more room so this is like monkey in

0:01:33.840,0:01:35.520
action i swear bolder and does it though

0:01:35.520,0:01:38.479
you'll get longer arms

0:01:38.840,0:01:40.720
okay

0:01:40.720,0:01:43.520
it's a nice joke

0:01:43.520,0:01:46.799
that is a really nice hold

0:01:49.520,0:01:52.000
come on

0:01:53.040,0:01:55.360
and it's looking like the only nice hole

0:01:55.360,0:01:59.439
weak climber projecting rule number one

0:01:59.439,0:02:02.240
don't climb first save your energy let

0:02:02.240,0:02:04.240
your friend to put the quick draws for

0:02:04.240,0:02:07.360
you and find those nice holes so you can

0:02:07.360,0:02:09.520
stay happily weak and if you don't know

0:02:09.520,0:02:12.000
how to convince your friend to go first

0:02:12.000,0:02:13.680
here is an example will you put your

0:02:13.680,0:02:16.160
dress yourself or you need our help

0:02:16.160,0:02:18.000
i don't need your help

0:02:18.000,0:02:20.640
i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on

0:02:20.640,0:02:23.920
myself lately i went always climbing

0:02:23.920,0:02:27.920
with guys who weren't that gentlemanish

0:02:27.920,0:02:29.760
wait so you're giving draws to somebody

0:02:29.760,0:02:30.879
else

0:02:30.879,0:02:32.879
no no hannah said before that she keeps

0:02:32.879,0:02:34.840
putting the drawers blah

0:02:34.840,0:02:38.959
blah i i just said you don't have to

0:02:38.959,0:02:41.280
so this actually was the crux of the

0:02:41.280,0:02:42.160
route

0:02:42.160,0:02:44.800
where you have to be either very strong

0:02:44.800,0:02:47.680
or very creative

0:02:47.680,0:02:50.680
okay

0:02:55.930,0:02:59.360
[Music]

0:02:59.360,0:03:01.440
no

0:03:01.440,0:03:05.400
we're still on site

0:03:08.560,0:03:09.680
wow

0:03:09.680,0:03:11.920
so for the right hand you have this

0:03:11.920,0:03:15.519
slippery crimpy hold which is really not

0:03:15.519,0:03:16.319
good

0:03:16.319,0:03:21.040
and then the next hold is quite far off

0:03:22.319,0:03:24.799
and this is hana trying the same move

0:03:24.799,0:03:27.840
the next hold is this crimpy side pull

0:03:27.840,0:03:31.159
right here

0:03:32.879,0:03:35.519
okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta

0:03:35.519,0:03:38.319
yeah i'm going to come into this one

0:03:38.319,0:03:40.879
beta beta but

0:03:40.879,0:03:43.120
i don't know what's correct

0:03:43.120,0:03:46.360
come on

0:03:59.680,0:04:02.879
that is a killer so after trying to

0:04:02.879,0:04:05.599
brute force the crux in many different

0:04:05.599,0:04:07.760
ways

0:04:07.760,0:04:11.360
no way dude no way charlie finally came

0:04:11.360,0:04:15.120
up with idea how to do it

0:04:16.400,0:04:19.280
which was to kick the left leg to the

0:04:19.280,0:04:24.560
wall and do a drop knee yeah come on

0:04:24.800,0:04:28.400
so not very obvious but such a fun move

0:04:28.400,0:04:30.160
right leg up

0:04:30.160,0:04:33.600
and left leg kicks into the wall

0:04:33.600,0:04:36.639
that's what you need to do

0:04:37.520,0:04:40.710
drop me

0:04:40.710,0:04:44.720
[Laughter]

0:04:44.720,0:04:46.639
if you actually drop me more you will

0:04:46.639,0:04:50.160
not need to use passat yet

0:04:50.160,0:04:51.680
save it for later

0:04:51.680,0:04:54.560
you always need two percent

0:04:54.560,0:04:57.360
so that's actually not always the case

0:04:57.360,0:04:59.919
oftentimes it's more about understanding

0:04:59.919,0:05:03.039
the move yeah now the feet up up up and

0:05:03.039,0:05:04.960
kick

0:05:04.960,0:05:06.720
yeah and kick

0:05:06.720,0:05:08.400
and drop knee drop knees stay close to

0:05:08.400,0:05:09.360
the wall

0:05:09.360,0:05:12.240
that's it that's it

0:05:12.800,0:05:14.639
i cannot drop anymore

0:05:14.639,0:05:16.880
yeah

0:05:19.039,0:05:21.360
so we analyzed these moves in the

0:05:21.360,0:05:23.600
evening and this is what happened the

0:05:23.600,0:05:26.080
next day

0:05:27.199,0:05:29.350
what the [ __ ] this was easy

0:05:29.350,0:05:32.160
[Music]

0:05:32.160,0:05:34.240
now change the drop knee to other side

0:05:34.240,0:05:37.039
and right arm up

0:05:37.120,0:05:39.039
yeah

0:05:39.039,0:05:40.560
yeah

0:05:40.560,0:05:41.520
okay

0:05:41.520,0:05:44.720
so this left leg ninja move unlocked the

0:05:44.720,0:05:46.560
first half of the crux

0:05:46.560,0:05:47.759
however

0:05:47.759,0:05:52.199
it's not over yet

0:05:59.120,0:06:02.600
right leg up

0:06:07.280,0:06:09.600
all right since weak climbers we have

0:06:09.600,0:06:11.680
very limited amount of energy rule

0:06:11.680,0:06:15.360
number two is to save it

0:06:16.560,0:06:20.280
okay take me here

0:06:21.199,0:06:25.360
see how weak people solve problems

0:06:27.280,0:06:29.919
so instead of trying the moves from get

0:06:29.919,0:06:32.639
go sometimes it's actually better to

0:06:32.639,0:06:35.440
take and get yourself familiar with the

0:06:35.440,0:06:38.160
holes search for hidden holes and

0:06:38.160,0:06:41.039
opportunities and since i saw charlie

0:06:41.039,0:06:42.639
already

0:06:42.639,0:06:45.280
i knew that i have to try this kick and

0:06:45.280,0:06:48.400
a drop knee

0:06:48.400,0:06:50.720
come on man okay take

0:06:50.720,0:06:52.639
and right away when i understand that

0:06:52.639,0:06:55.599
the move works i take to save the energy

0:06:55.599,0:06:57.520
and now i can try the moves that i

0:06:57.520,0:06:59.520
skipped now lower me a bit i want to see

0:06:59.520,0:07:01.599
if i can link

0:07:01.599,0:07:05.360
a bit more up so this is that

0:07:05.360,0:07:08.960
this and that this is that this and that

0:07:08.960,0:07:12.050
i mean okay

0:07:12.050,0:07:16.560
[Music]

0:07:16.560,0:07:18.319
whoa

0:07:18.319,0:07:20.479
you're good yeah i'm good i'm good

0:07:20.479,0:07:22.560
that's why we wear helmets

0:07:22.560,0:07:25.199
as a player

0:07:25.199,0:07:26.400
it broke

0:07:26.400,0:07:28.240
i think football

0:07:28.240,0:07:30.560
and the other one is also moving yeah

0:07:30.560,0:07:34.240
you need to step on another part

0:07:36.720,0:07:38.880
next i wanted to start from this rest

0:07:38.880,0:07:41.520
hold and see if i can do the kick and

0:07:41.520,0:07:44.160
the drop knee and the trick here was to

0:07:44.160,0:07:47.199
find which footholds will work for me

0:07:47.199,0:07:49.680
which i got lucky in the first go

0:07:49.680,0:07:51.680
critic

0:07:51.680,0:07:53.120
good

0:07:53.120,0:07:56.000
next so as you can see on a first go i'm

0:07:56.000,0:07:58.240
not even trying to climb big sections

0:07:58.240,0:08:00.720
continuously the reality about our

0:08:00.720,0:08:02.800
muscles is that the more

0:08:02.800,0:08:05.680
tired we get the more pumped we get the

0:08:05.680,0:08:07.919
longer it takes for them to recover so

0:08:07.919,0:08:10.400
they can deliver anywhere close to max

0:08:10.400,0:08:13.039
power and max power is what you need to

0:08:13.039,0:08:15.599
efficiently work out the hardest parts

0:08:15.599,0:08:16.879
of the route

0:08:16.879,0:08:18.800
now the fun part

0:08:18.800,0:08:20.639
from here

0:08:20.639,0:08:23.599
there also before i start a new section

0:08:23.599,0:08:26.160
it's very important to stand in exactly

0:08:26.160,0:08:28.160
the same position where i finished the

0:08:28.160,0:08:30.960
previous section if i don't do that it's

0:08:30.960,0:08:32.880
going to be very difficult to flow

0:08:32.880,0:08:34.640
between these different sections and

0:08:34.640,0:08:36.880
this is actually quite common mistake

0:08:36.880,0:08:38.320
okay

0:08:38.320,0:08:41.560
do this

0:08:43.279,0:08:45.279
if you can put a drawer in

0:08:45.279,0:08:48.240
no it's too far

0:08:48.560,0:08:51.920
don't pull me don't pull me okay

0:08:55.680,0:08:57.680
and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is

0:08:57.680,0:09:01.810
totally normal and every pro does that

0:09:01.810,0:09:04.399
[Laughter]

0:09:04.399,0:09:06.800
now a huge warning about grabbing quick

0:09:06.800,0:09:09.279
draws is that you should avoid grabbing

0:09:09.279,0:09:11.600
your quick draw below you because in

0:09:11.600,0:09:14.399
this case if you would take a fall

0:09:14.399,0:09:16.959
this can happen where you have a lot of

0:09:16.959,0:09:19.440
fall until you are in position where you

0:09:19.440,0:09:22.080
could potentially hold yourself but the

0:09:22.080,0:09:24.640
force will be so big that you might not

0:09:24.640,0:09:27.279
be able to hold on the sling your hand

0:09:27.279,0:09:29.600
will slip and the quick draw can

0:09:29.600,0:09:32.480
penetrate your palm i've seen pictures

0:09:32.480,0:09:35.120
it doesn't look fun okay climbing

0:09:35.120,0:09:37.360
all right next i wanted to link both

0:09:37.360,0:09:40.080
sections together to see how well the

0:09:40.080,0:09:44.160
transition between them flows

0:09:44.560,0:09:47.200
it was also a good time to focus a

0:09:47.200,0:09:50.000
little bit more on footwork this helps a

0:09:50.000,0:09:52.800
lot to remember your foot placements

0:09:52.800,0:09:53.680
and

0:09:53.680,0:09:56.000
potentially do less mistakes in the

0:09:56.000,0:09:58.399
future

0:09:59.120,0:10:01.440
thank you

0:10:02.959,0:10:07.440
nice okay so this is doable so now i

0:10:07.440,0:10:09.600
kind of don't have a plan apart from

0:10:09.600,0:10:11.360
stepping up high

0:10:11.360,0:10:13.600
and going into unknown

0:10:13.600,0:10:16.560
this is gonna be fun

0:10:16.640,0:10:18.580
i'm windy you climbing okay

0:10:18.580,0:10:21.759
[Music]

0:10:21.839,0:10:24.480
what the [ __ ]

0:10:28.160,0:10:30.399
so the final section of the crux was a

0:10:30.399,0:10:32.399
little mystery for me it was already

0:10:32.399,0:10:34.240
getting dark mama mia i don't know

0:10:34.240,0:10:36.880
what's next so yeah it's not only you

0:10:36.880,0:10:39.279
who cannot see much in this clip i'm

0:10:39.279,0:10:40.560
flying

0:10:40.560,0:10:43.760
and the only idea i was seeing is a huge

0:10:43.760,0:10:47.120
dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i

0:10:47.120,0:10:50.079
was not sure if that's the right oh my

0:10:50.079,0:10:52.720
god wait to do it

0:10:52.720,0:10:54.399
okay i'm falling

0:10:54.399,0:10:56.959
and after multiple attempts i realized

0:10:56.959,0:10:59.839
that i'm not gonna get to the top today

0:10:59.839,0:11:01.440
and that's okay

0:11:01.440,0:11:03.839
my only goal was to put the next quick

0:11:03.839,0:11:06.000
draw

0:11:06.000,0:11:07.279
nice

0:11:07.279,0:11:09.680
and come back the next day all right

0:11:09.680,0:11:12.000
good

0:11:12.079,0:11:13.760
what's the plan

0:11:13.760,0:11:16.399
i'm going to take it slow today

0:11:16.399,0:11:18.720
i'll say take a lot more mel

0:11:18.720,0:11:22.399
learning strategy from weak people

0:11:22.640,0:11:27.079
i think it's the best way climate

0:11:38.720,0:11:41.720
clipping

0:11:44.880,0:11:46.320
nice

0:11:46.320,0:11:48.800
easy

0:11:50.480,0:11:52.000
come on

0:11:52.000,0:11:53.440
yeah

0:11:53.440,0:11:55.360
yeah yeah

0:11:55.360,0:11:57.839
come on

0:11:58.160,0:12:01.120
yeah come on

0:12:01.519,0:12:05.440
no go for the tick mark come on

0:12:06.000,0:12:08.320
yeah

0:12:08.720,0:12:11.720
easy

0:12:17.600,0:12:18.480
oh

0:12:18.480,0:12:21.720
come on

0:12:24.639,0:12:27.040
some nice flying

0:12:27.040,0:12:29.600
oh well then that was easy this time you

0:12:29.600,0:12:31.519
have to be quick though after that move

0:12:31.519,0:12:33.279
all right fun time

0:12:33.279,0:12:35.920
this is a final part of the crux

0:12:35.920,0:12:38.639
which starts with two really good crimps

0:12:38.639,0:12:41.760
and a very big move

0:12:42.399,0:12:44.399
nice attempt

0:12:44.399,0:12:47.680
my foot just flipped

0:12:48.160,0:12:50.350
wow you were holding it

0:12:50.350,0:12:56.560
[Music]

0:12:56.560,0:12:58.079
boom boom

0:12:58.079,0:13:01.079
boom

0:13:07.520,0:13:11.250
[Music]

0:13:16.240,0:13:18.560
nice that's it

0:13:18.560,0:13:21.839
okay clipping

0:13:24.240,0:13:26.880
okay take

0:13:27.200,0:13:29.360
being more strategic today no yeah

0:13:29.360,0:13:30.639
definitely

0:13:30.639,0:13:33.040
and talking about the strategy here i

0:13:33.040,0:13:35.680
hang on the rope again not climbing but

0:13:35.680,0:13:37.680
inspecting the route searching for the

0:13:37.680,0:13:41.199
footholds and handholds

0:13:41.199,0:13:43.680
climbing i actually wanted to start just

0:13:43.680,0:13:46.800
a few moves before the big move to see

0:13:46.800,0:13:52.000
how my setup flows into the dino

0:13:54.740,0:13:56.240
[Music]

0:13:56.240,0:13:58.880
nice ben

0:14:00.240,0:14:02.959
[ __ ] so since this was the first time of

0:14:02.959,0:14:05.199
me in this position in daylight

0:14:05.199,0:14:07.519
obviously i didn't had the perfect beta

0:14:07.519,0:14:10.240
yet but it's okay the step one was just

0:14:10.240,0:14:12.320
to do whatever it takes to clip the next

0:14:12.320,0:14:15.199
quick draw that's it that's it

0:14:15.199,0:14:16.959
and then optimize

0:14:16.959,0:14:19.440
okay take me here i want to

0:14:19.440,0:14:22.000
find phone calls slopper

0:14:22.000,0:14:25.880
yeah this slopper is nice

0:14:36.560,0:14:39.279
so when obvious doesn't work you have to

0:14:39.279,0:14:40.800
try something else

0:14:40.800,0:14:42.959
while for me and charlie the dino was

0:14:42.959,0:14:44.639
working pretty well

0:14:44.639,0:14:47.600
hannah decided to climb around it i just

0:14:47.600,0:14:49.440
wanted to try

0:14:49.440,0:14:52.320
what the [ __ ]

0:14:52.800,0:14:54.880
maybe this is gonna work you could you

0:14:54.880,0:14:56.720
get left hand where your right is

0:14:56.720,0:14:59.720
somehow

0:15:07.920,0:15:09.279
nice

0:15:09.279,0:15:13.000
nice nice nice

0:15:22.560,0:15:25.680
above on the right

0:15:25.680,0:15:28.079
so we spent two half days projecting

0:15:28.079,0:15:30.240
this route and the goal for these first

0:15:30.240,0:15:32.560
two days was just to break and tire

0:15:32.560,0:15:34.720
route down into multiple sections

0:15:34.720,0:15:37.279
ideally from rest position to rest

0:15:37.279,0:15:39.680
position or in this case since this

0:15:39.680,0:15:42.480
route had very long and complicated crux

0:15:42.480,0:15:44.639
i decided to break down the crux into

0:15:44.639,0:15:46.880
multiple sections as well so while

0:15:46.880,0:15:49.680
entire route might look really long

0:15:49.680,0:15:52.480
intimidating and hard and complicated if

0:15:52.480,0:15:54.320
you start using divide and conquer

0:15:54.320,0:15:56.800
principle that will for sure become

0:15:56.800,0:15:59.519
easier so i go first because i don't

0:15:59.519,0:16:02.320
like to be stressed if you stand

0:16:02.320,0:16:04.720
and then i have to climb i feel more

0:16:04.720,0:16:07.199
stressy so i will sand and then you can

0:16:07.199,0:16:09.839
kill that

0:16:10.000,0:16:12.160
i don't think that's fair but i'll take

0:16:12.160,0:16:12.470
it

0:16:12.470,0:16:14.399
[Music]

0:16:14.399,0:16:17.279
i think it's okay i think it's okay

0:16:17.279,0:16:19.759
and so after working out the moves we

0:16:19.759,0:16:22.720
took few rest days and finally it was

0:16:22.720,0:16:25.120
time to deal with descending pressure

0:16:25.120,0:16:28.720
everything looks different in the sun

0:16:28.720,0:16:30.480
now you might be wondering why the hell

0:16:30.480,0:16:32.880
we are climbing in direct sun

0:16:32.880,0:16:35.839
well yes it's true that sun will make

0:16:35.839,0:16:37.600
the friction worse

0:16:37.600,0:16:40.639
however it was a relatively cold day and

0:16:40.639,0:16:43.199
i just wanted to treat the first go as a

0:16:43.199,0:16:45.680
warm-up without worrying about sending

0:16:45.680,0:16:49.120
too much so whatever happens happens

0:16:49.120,0:16:51.839
after very easy beginning you have a

0:16:51.839,0:16:54.880
mini cracks which starts with this mono

0:16:54.880,0:16:58.000
pocket or if you have tiny fingers like

0:16:58.000,0:17:00.800
me you can squeeze in two fingers

0:17:00.800,0:17:04.000
and then the next move is into tiny tiny

0:17:04.000,0:17:05.919
crimp

0:17:05.919,0:17:09.360
and you have to pull on it

0:17:11.839,0:17:14.480
so definitely not the smartest idea to

0:17:14.480,0:17:17.439
do such moves without a proper warm-up

0:17:17.439,0:17:20.720
or on a warm-up go in my case

0:17:20.720,0:17:23.839
however my strategy sometimes is to just

0:17:23.839,0:17:26.319
go for it but be very

0:17:26.319,0:17:28.880
observant of my body and if something

0:17:28.880,0:17:30.240
feels wrong

0:17:30.240,0:17:33.039
stop immediately i also knew that this

0:17:33.039,0:17:36.160
route has a lot of rests so i can warm

0:17:36.160,0:17:38.880
up on easier sections and then shake it

0:17:38.880,0:17:40.960
out during the rests

0:17:40.960,0:17:42.640
here you can see me

0:17:42.640,0:17:45.360
shaking on every single opportunity and

0:17:45.360,0:17:48.320
trying to recover as much as they can

0:17:48.320,0:17:51.039
because i knew that for the crux i need

0:17:51.039,0:17:54.640
100 of my energy so i try to stay as

0:17:54.640,0:17:58.400
calm as possible and rest longer than i

0:17:58.400,0:18:00.720
think i will need

0:18:00.720,0:18:06.520
in the dark creeps no come on you got it

0:18:23.240,0:18:29.509
[Music]

0:18:34.559,0:18:36.520
nice

0:18:36.520,0:18:39.819
[Music]

0:18:45.020,0:18:48.220
[Music]

0:18:48.980,0:18:52.150
[Applause]

0:18:53.679,0:18:56.679
nice

0:19:06.320,0:19:09.640
nice buddy

0:19:16.720,0:19:19.120
well done i'm not yet

0:19:19.120,0:19:21.840
so while it looks like it's done it's

0:19:21.840,0:19:25.400
actually far from it my forearms are

0:19:25.400,0:19:28.559
exploding i'm holding two crimps that

0:19:28.559,0:19:31.360
would be quite good however i'm so

0:19:31.360,0:19:34.960
pumped that they are far from being good

0:19:34.960,0:19:37.360
plus i know that my mind tends to go

0:19:37.360,0:19:39.520
into kind of tunnel vision when i get

0:19:39.520,0:19:41.840
really tired and it's really hard to

0:19:41.840,0:19:42.720
focus

0:19:42.720,0:19:45.200
so at the same time i'm waiting for the

0:19:45.200,0:19:48.000
clarity to come back i'm desperately

0:19:48.000,0:19:50.480
trying to find a better hold or better

0:19:50.480,0:19:53.360
body position that could allow me to

0:19:53.360,0:19:56.559
shake just a little bit more to

0:19:56.559,0:19:59.520
not rush me into the next moves yet

0:19:59.520,0:20:02.080
because i really don't want to mess up

0:20:02.080,0:20:04.240
here

0:20:04.240,0:20:06.400
i don't know how to swap arms

0:20:06.400,0:20:08.880
but since the holes are not that good to

0:20:08.880,0:20:11.520
rest on i knew that i have to start

0:20:11.520,0:20:14.240
thinking what's next and the next is the

0:20:14.240,0:20:17.280
left hand up so i decided to swap my

0:20:17.280,0:20:19.919
arms so my right arm stays on the better

0:20:19.919,0:20:22.640
part of the hold quick glance over the

0:20:22.640,0:20:27.120
footholds and hope for the best

0:20:29.840,0:20:33.240
nice dude

0:20:40.720,0:20:43.360
so a little camera teleportation magic

0:20:43.360,0:20:46.000
while i'm enjoying the last rest

0:20:46.000,0:20:48.720
and a final section which is not really

0:20:48.720,0:20:52.159
hard but a little bit tricky and tricky

0:20:52.159,0:20:54.480
is not that great when you are under

0:20:54.480,0:20:56.320
sending pressure

0:20:56.320,0:20:58.960
good trying

0:20:59.440,0:21:00.799
come on

0:21:00.799,0:21:03.840
come on dude

0:21:13.919,0:21:16.919
nice

0:21:21.679,0:21:24.320
so only few moves left but as a true

0:21:24.320,0:21:26.240
weak climber i couldn't miss an

0:21:26.240,0:21:28.480
opportunity for a good shake

0:21:28.480,0:21:31.360
notice that i'm not rushing to clip here

0:21:31.360,0:21:33.840
it's much better to shake it out first

0:21:33.840,0:21:36.640
get into a better position and only then

0:21:36.640,0:21:40.080
clip also notice my left leg i stepped

0:21:40.080,0:21:42.880
out of overhang as much as i can this

0:21:42.880,0:21:44.720
makes my position

0:21:44.720,0:21:47.200
way less overhanging and much better to

0:21:47.200,0:21:48.960
rest

0:21:48.960,0:21:52.080
and since i'm very close to sending my

0:21:52.080,0:21:54.880
sending pressure keeps going up and up

0:21:54.880,0:21:56.080
and up

0:21:56.080,0:21:58.799
and the trick is to

0:21:58.799,0:22:04.120
at least try to stay as calm as you can

0:22:04.350,0:22:12.809
[Music]

0:22:30.280,0:22:33.329
[Music]

0:22:36.799,0:22:40.600
how does that feel dude

0:22:41.290,0:22:43.200
[Music]

0:22:43.200,0:22:44.720
trying to get my

0:22:44.720,0:22:47.120
breath back back

0:22:47.120,0:22:49.360
um

0:22:50.320,0:22:53.840
it's even the easiest 7c i've ever

0:22:53.840,0:22:54.960
or

0:22:54.960,0:22:56.960
i got already stronger so till this

0:22:56.960,0:22:59.200
point it's been only two months of me

0:22:59.200,0:23:01.440
training with lattice guys so it's a bit

0:23:01.440,0:23:04.400
early to judge what kind of effect that

0:23:04.400,0:23:06.960
had on my climbing performance however

0:23:06.960,0:23:09.360
in next video i'm gonna show you how all

0:23:09.360,0:23:12.000
of my training looked like

0:23:12.000,0:23:12.960
and

0:23:12.960,0:23:16.000
some numbers but for now it's charlie's

0:23:16.000,0:23:19.799
time to send this 7c

0:23:20.570,0:23:23.039
[Music]

0:23:23.039,0:23:26.039
uh

0:23:29.650,0:23:35.200
[Music]

0:23:36.720,0:23:37.990
nice come on

0:23:37.990,0:23:42.159
[Music]

0:23:42.159,0:23:44.320
yeah come on

0:23:44.320,0:23:45.910
nice

0:23:45.910,0:23:52.159
[Music]

0:23:52.159,0:23:55.120
come on you got this

0:23:57.919,0:24:00.880
yeah come on

0:24:01.600,0:24:03.600
come on buddy

0:24:03.600,0:24:05.440
yeah come on

0:24:05.440,0:24:07.840
come on

0:24:09.490,0:24:10.960
[Music]

0:24:10.960,0:24:14.080
yeah come on

0:24:14.640,0:24:18.120
come on come on

0:24:22.080,0:24:24.640
knew it dude

0:24:24.640,0:24:27.840
you knew it i knew it you knew wrong

0:24:27.840,0:24:30.840
thanks yeah i almost lose my

0:24:30.840,0:24:33.120
feet yeah you need to work on the

0:24:33.120,0:24:36.000
section after this big move so well

0:24:36.000,0:24:38.000
classic mistake of not having the

0:24:38.000,0:24:40.720
perfect beta right after the hardest

0:24:40.720,0:24:43.600
move because that's charlie his send on

0:24:43.600,0:24:44.880
the first go

0:24:44.880,0:24:47.279
he tried to fix that and this is his

0:24:47.279,0:24:48.890
second goal for the day

0:24:48.890,0:24:50.159
[Music]

0:24:50.159,0:24:50.750
come on

0:24:50.750,0:24:52.240
[Music]

0:24:52.240,0:24:54.720
come on

0:24:58.960,0:25:00.480
come on

0:25:00.480,0:25:02.720
yeah

0:25:02.720,0:25:04.559
come on

0:25:04.559,0:25:07.520
yeah yeah come on come on

0:25:08.960,0:25:10.799
come on come on come on

0:25:10.799,0:25:11.840
no

0:25:11.840,0:25:14.240
man

0:25:18.320,0:25:21.039
but no cigar

0:25:21.360,0:25:24.159
but very very close

0:25:24.159,0:25:25.360
i really want to do it today though

0:25:25.360,0:25:27.360
that's the thing

0:25:27.360,0:25:30.559
so stress and pressure it's probably

0:25:30.559,0:25:33.039
inevitable to happen when you're trying

0:25:33.039,0:25:36.159
to push your max grade while sometimes

0:25:36.159,0:25:38.559
you might just get lucky and send most

0:25:38.559,0:25:40.640
of the time it's actually better to

0:25:40.640,0:25:42.880
allow yourself to fail just tell

0:25:42.880,0:25:45.039
yourself i'm gonna climb this route as

0:25:45.039,0:25:48.320
far as i can and if i fail that's okay

0:25:48.320,0:25:50.480
no i think you did this way too easy you

0:25:50.480,0:25:52.480
did this all this there's another aa

0:25:52.480,0:25:55.600
here now if your mind resists the idea

0:25:55.600,0:25:58.320
that failing is okay just keep pushing

0:25:58.320,0:26:00.159
through it because the reality is

0:26:00.159,0:26:02.480
whether you send or you don't

0:26:02.480,0:26:04.240
nothing is gonna change in your life

0:26:04.240,0:26:06.400
after every fail you're still alive

0:26:06.400,0:26:08.960
you're still surrounded by great friends

0:26:08.960,0:26:11.679
having great time

0:26:11.679,0:26:13.840
in action so by pushing through these

0:26:13.840,0:26:16.480
fails the pressure will start going

0:26:16.480,0:26:18.240
lower and lower and lower until it

0:26:18.240,0:26:20.240
becomes manageable and at some point

0:26:20.240,0:26:22.799
chances are that you are going to send

0:26:22.799,0:26:24.559
what is superglue apparently was made in

0:26:24.559,0:26:25.679
the

0:26:25.679,0:26:28.240
second world war to close wounds so we

0:26:28.240,0:26:30.559
are closing the wounds now

0:26:30.559,0:26:32.400
so we're closing wounds well the best

0:26:32.400,0:26:34.400
way to find out if this works

0:26:34.400,0:26:36.320
is uh well the best way i can find out

0:26:36.320,0:26:38.320
is test it on somebody else and then

0:26:38.320,0:26:40.080
you'll get loads of comments on saying

0:26:40.080,0:26:42.480
how to do it correctly

0:26:42.480,0:26:44.159
okay let's do it

0:26:44.159,0:26:46.240
let's do it

0:26:46.240,0:26:49.760
i suppose let's just do that there

0:26:50.320,0:26:51.520
okay

0:26:51.520,0:26:53.679
you think i should press it together or

0:26:53.679,0:26:55.520
just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't

0:26:55.520,0:26:57.919
know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going

0:26:57.919,0:27:00.000
i'll see you guys later so now you feel

0:27:00.000,0:27:01.919
like sending

0:27:01.919,0:27:06.559
yes i mean i stick to the wall now

0:27:06.559,0:27:07.760
you need to hold your finger up in the

0:27:07.760,0:27:10.000
wind

0:27:11.520,0:27:13.360
like this yeah yeah yeah

0:27:13.360,0:27:15.360
the wind's coming i know the answer

0:27:15.360,0:27:17.360
the wind's coming from that way though

0:27:17.360,0:27:19.120
now you know the answer it's getting

0:27:19.120,0:27:21.200
there it's getting there really

0:27:21.200,0:27:23.120
okay we wait we wait but then you can

0:27:23.120,0:27:24.720
sand it down and you can make the finger

0:27:24.720,0:27:25.919
you want

0:27:25.919,0:27:27.520
you can you can do it

0:27:27.520,0:27:29.440
you can have the perfect perfect this

0:27:29.440,0:27:31.679
sounds great can you also tell for

0:27:31.679,0:27:36.799
people to not do this yeah don't do it

0:27:37.039,0:27:38.720
i'm gonna give it one go hike or my

0:27:38.720,0:27:42.520
finger already hurts

0:27:45.890,0:27:49.119
[Music]

0:27:51.360,0:27:54.320
yeah yeah pink

0:27:54.320,0:27:56.000
nice

0:27:56.000,0:27:58.340
right leg up

0:27:58.340,0:28:09.940
[Music]

0:28:12.320,0:28:14.910
this move is not hard at all

0:28:14.910,0:28:17.200
[Music]

0:28:17.200,0:28:20.480
why don't you get rid of the tape

0:28:22.320,0:28:23.840
it's open again

0:28:23.840,0:28:26.640
oh really yeah

0:28:27.120,0:28:28.720
i would not climb

0:28:28.720,0:28:32.399
low on me let it heal

0:28:34.880,0:28:35.840
[ __ ]

0:28:35.840,0:28:38.000
i'm delay slave today

0:28:38.000,0:28:40.720
so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't

0:28:40.720,0:28:42.960
work at all

0:28:42.960,0:28:44.399
i have now

0:28:44.399,0:28:45.840
yeah so

0:28:45.840,0:28:48.799
real life is not always a movie although

0:28:48.799,0:28:51.039
you're kind of watching a movie

0:28:51.039,0:28:52.799
but at the same time you're watching a

0:28:52.799,0:28:54.240
real life

0:28:54.240,0:28:56.640
and real life doesn't always have a

0:28:56.640,0:28:59.840
happy ending

0:29:07.679,0:29:10.399
what happened

0:29:10.960,0:29:13.840
i'm not sure dude

0:29:21.360,0:29:24.640
this hole is so [ __ ] hard now

0:29:24.640,0:29:26.880
yummy

0:29:26.880,0:29:28.559
pressure

0:29:28.559,0:29:30.799
under pressure

0:29:30.799,0:29:34.000
under pressure yep as i already said

0:29:34.000,0:29:36.080
sometimes the best way to deal with

0:29:36.080,0:29:37.200
pressure

0:29:37.200,0:29:41.200
is to just let it beat you then stand up

0:29:41.200,0:29:42.880
and try again

0:29:42.880,0:29:45.440
it will make your mind much stronger not

0:29:45.440,0:29:49.440
only in climbing but in life as

0:29:52.840,0:29:56.919
well on

0:30:00.040,0:30:04.180
[Music]

0:30:04.180,0:30:07.269
[Applause]

0:30:17.039,0:30:19.279
come on you got this

0:30:19.279,0:30:22.080
yeah come on

0:30:25.040,0:30:28.190
[Music]

0:30:34.720,0:30:38.559
just need a moment yeah

0:30:42.000,0:30:44.000
i was like if he's gonna whip on this

0:30:44.000,0:30:45.360
clip

0:30:45.360,0:30:47.919
imagine that

0:30:47.919,0:30:51.600
oh i'm shaking dude

0:30:51.600,0:30:53.520
climb to a bit higher and then try to

0:30:53.520,0:30:54.640
rest here

0:30:54.640,0:30:55.440
yeah

0:30:55.440,0:30:57.360
this right hand side pull is really good

0:30:57.360,0:31:00.519
for resting

0:31:01.790,0:31:05.200
[Music]

0:31:05.200,0:31:05.840
okay

0:31:05.840,0:31:07.200
[Music]

0:31:07.200,0:31:10.679
okay enjoy

0:31:11.440,0:31:21.120
[Music]

0:31:21.120,0:31:24.360
thank you

0:31:30.110,0:31:41.060
[Music]

0:31:42.240,0:31:43.600
nice

0:31:43.600,0:31:46.840
come on

0:31:48.240,0:31:50.640
yeah

0:31:50.640,0:31:53.200
nice

0:31:55.060,0:31:58.080
[Music]

0:31:58.080,0:32:02.159
you are gonna fall now a danker

0:32:02.799,0:32:03.919
come on

0:32:03.919,0:32:06.320
that would suck wouldn't it

0:32:06.320,0:32:08.559
whoa

0:32:09.600,0:32:12.240
dude i was there just shaking away like

0:32:12.240,0:32:14.480
can like calm down calm down i couldn't

0:32:14.480,0:32:16.080
i couldn't i was like if i stay here any

0:32:16.080,0:32:19.519
longer i'm just making it worse like

0:32:19.519,0:32:22.480
but yeah it went nicely good run you too

0:32:22.480,0:32:24.640
dude well done good send as well good

0:32:24.640,0:32:25.840
balloon

0:32:25.840,0:32:27.840
really good playing in a

0:32:27.840,0:32:30.559
how did the harness feel yes super nice

0:32:30.559,0:32:33.279
like whoa you felt the difference yeah a

0:32:33.279,0:32:34.000
lot

0:32:34.000,0:32:35.840
why are you doing marketing to mommy

0:32:35.840,0:32:37.840
yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm

0:32:37.840,0:32:40.880
all right so he's not so i will since

0:32:40.880,0:32:42.880
mahmoud has been a huge support for my

0:32:42.880,0:32:44.799
channel i wanted to say special thank

0:32:44.799,0:32:46.880
you for that and the story behind the

0:32:46.880,0:32:49.200
harness is that we've been recording a

0:32:49.200,0:32:51.600
ton of delaying experiments and mel's

0:32:51.600,0:32:54.080
legs started hurting from flying all the

0:32:54.080,0:32:58.159
time that's for hurting your legs

0:32:58.159,0:33:00.240
so thank you mel for flying and mammoth

0:33:00.240,0:33:02.720
for supporting and in the next episode

0:33:02.720,0:33:04.840
we will jump on our first

0:33:04.840,0:33:09.080
8a come on

0:33:17.200,0:33:19.360
it's kind of beautiful here

0:33:19.360,0:33:21.919
you want to see

0:33:23.360,0:33:24.559
cool now

0:33:24.559,0:33:26.480
so as always

0:33:26.480,0:33:27.840
enjoy climbing

0:33:27.840,0:33:29.200
projecting

0:33:29.200,0:33:30.080
and

0:33:30.080,0:33:32.080
if you want some karma points you can

0:33:32.080,0:33:33.679
visit my website

0:33:33.679,0:33:36.240
that helps me to pay the bills

0:33:36.240,0:33:39.760
and see you in the next episode