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the best way to find out if this works

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is well the best way i can find out is

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test it on somebody else and then you'll

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get loads of comments

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[Music]

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come on

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come on come on

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no

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wow you were holding it

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alright welcome to part two of heart is

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easy where in first episode i took

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lattice training performance assessment

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and my performance wasn't let's say

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much of a performance

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so how weak are my fingers good question

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so in half crimp we are coming in around

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110 and typically what we're seeing for

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for the 7c level in sport climbing is

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around 150 body weight so i'm like

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really far from

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7c climber it's quite it's quite far out

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so if you want to see the full

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assessment it's in this video and if you

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want to see how somebody weak like me

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can climb hard roots easy it's in this

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video but jokes aside of course what's

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hard or easy it's very subjective

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however i thought i'm gonna share with

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you my projecting tactics and maybe you

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will find something useful

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now in case you missed the previous

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episode this is charlie to the right you

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see that yeah he has one pad more rich

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on each side and he's smaller he has

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just more room so this is like monkey in

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action i swear bolder and does it though

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you'll get longer arms

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okay

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it's a nice joke

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that is a really nice hold

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come on

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and it's looking like the only nice hole

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weak climber projecting rule number one

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don't climb first save your energy let

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00:02:02,240 --> 00:02:04,240
your friend to put the quick draws for

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you and find those nice holes so you can

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stay happily weak and if you don't know

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how to convince your friend to go first

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here is an example will you put your

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dress yourself or you need our help

51
00:02:16,160 --> 00:02:18,000
i don't need your help

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i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on

53
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myself lately i went always climbing

54
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with guys who weren't that gentlemanish

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wait so you're giving draws to somebody

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else

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no no hannah said before that she keeps

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putting the drawers blah

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blah i i just said you don't have to

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so this actually was the crux of the

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route

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where you have to be either very strong

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or very creative

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okay

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[Music]

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no

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we're still on site

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wow

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so for the right hand you have this

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slippery crimpy hold which is really not

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good

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and then the next hold is quite far off

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and this is hana trying the same move

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the next hold is this crimpy side pull

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right here

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okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta

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yeah i'm going to come into this one

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beta beta but

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i don't know what's correct

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come on

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that is a killer so after trying to

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brute force the crux in many different

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ways

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no way dude no way charlie finally came

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up with idea how to do it

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which was to kick the left leg to the

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wall and do a drop knee yeah come on

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so not very obvious but such a fun move

89
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right leg up

90
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and left leg kicks into the wall

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that's what you need to do

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drop me

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[Laughter]

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if you actually drop me more you will

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not need to use passat yet

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save it for later

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you always need two percent

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so that's actually not always the case

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oftentimes it's more about understanding

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the move yeah now the feet up up up and

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kick

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yeah and kick

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and drop knee drop knees stay close to

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the wall

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that's it that's it

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i cannot drop anymore

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yeah

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so we analyzed these moves in the

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evening and this is what happened the

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next day

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what the [ __ ] this was easy

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[Music]

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now change the drop knee to other side

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and right arm up

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yeah

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yeah

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okay

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so this left leg ninja move unlocked the

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first half of the crux

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however

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it's not over yet

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right leg up

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all right since weak climbers we have

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very limited amount of energy rule

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number two is to save it

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okay take me here

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see how weak people solve problems

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so instead of trying the moves from get

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go sometimes it's actually better to

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take and get yourself familiar with the

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holes search for hidden holes and

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opportunities and since i saw charlie

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already

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i knew that i have to try this kick and

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a drop knee

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come on man okay take

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and right away when i understand that

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the move works i take to save the energy

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and now i can try the moves that i

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skipped now lower me a bit i want to see

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if i can link

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a bit more up so this is that

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this and that this is that this and that

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i mean okay

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[Music]

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whoa

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you're good yeah i'm good i'm good

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that's why we wear helmets

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as a player

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it broke

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i think football

152
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and the other one is also moving yeah

153
00:07:30,560 --> 00:07:34,240
you need to step on another part

154
00:07:36,720 --> 00:07:38,880
next i wanted to start from this rest

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hold and see if i can do the kick and

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the drop knee and the trick here was to

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find which footholds will work for me

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which i got lucky in the first go

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00:07:49,680 --> 00:07:51,680
critic

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good

161
00:07:53,120 --> 00:07:56,000
next so as you can see on a first go i'm

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not even trying to climb big sections

163
00:07:58,240 --> 00:08:00,720
continuously the reality about our

164
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muscles is that the more

165
00:08:02,800 --> 00:08:05,680
tired we get the more pumped we get the

166
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longer it takes for them to recover so

167
00:08:07,919 --> 00:08:10,400
they can deliver anywhere close to max

168
00:08:10,400 --> 00:08:13,039
power and max power is what you need to

169
00:08:13,039 --> 00:08:15,599
efficiently work out the hardest parts

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of the route

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now the fun part

172
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from here

173
00:08:20,639 --> 00:08:23,599
there also before i start a new section

174
00:08:23,599 --> 00:08:26,160
it's very important to stand in exactly

175
00:08:26,160 --> 00:08:28,160
the same position where i finished the

176
00:08:28,160 --> 00:08:30,960
previous section if i don't do that it's

177
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going to be very difficult to flow

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between these different sections and

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this is actually quite common mistake

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okay

181
00:08:38,320 --> 00:08:41,560
do this

182
00:08:43,279 --> 00:08:45,279
if you can put a drawer in

183
00:08:45,279 --> 00:08:48,240
no it's too far

184
00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:51,920
don't pull me don't pull me okay

185
00:08:55,680 --> 00:08:57,680
and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is

186
00:08:57,680 --> 00:09:01,810
totally normal and every pro does that

187
00:09:01,810 --> 00:09:04,399
[Laughter]

188
00:09:04,399 --> 00:09:06,800
now a huge warning about grabbing quick

189
00:09:06,800 --> 00:09:09,279
draws is that you should avoid grabbing

190
00:09:09,279 --> 00:09:11,600
your quick draw below you because in

191
00:09:11,600 --> 00:09:14,399
this case if you would take a fall

192
00:09:14,399 --> 00:09:16,959
this can happen where you have a lot of

193
00:09:16,959 --> 00:09:19,440
fall until you are in position where you

194
00:09:19,440 --> 00:09:22,080
could potentially hold yourself but the

195
00:09:22,080 --> 00:09:24,640
force will be so big that you might not

196
00:09:24,640 --> 00:09:27,279
be able to hold on the sling your hand

197
00:09:27,279 --> 00:09:29,600
will slip and the quick draw can

198
00:09:29,600 --> 00:09:32,480
penetrate your palm i've seen pictures

199
00:09:32,480 --> 00:09:35,120
it doesn't look fun okay climbing

200
00:09:35,120 --> 00:09:37,360
all right next i wanted to link both

201
00:09:37,360 --> 00:09:40,080
sections together to see how well the

202
00:09:40,080 --> 00:09:44,160
transition between them flows

203
00:09:44,560 --> 00:09:47,200
it was also a good time to focus a

204
00:09:47,200 --> 00:09:50,000
little bit more on footwork this helps a

205
00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:52,800
lot to remember your foot placements

206
00:09:52,800 --> 00:09:53,680
and

207
00:09:53,680 --> 00:09:56,000
potentially do less mistakes in the

208
00:09:56,000 --> 00:09:58,399
future

209
00:09:59,120 --> 00:10:01,440
thank you

210
00:10:02,959 --> 00:10:07,440
nice okay so this is doable so now i

211
00:10:07,440 --> 00:10:09,600
kind of don't have a plan apart from

212
00:10:09,600 --> 00:10:11,360
stepping up high

213
00:10:11,360 --> 00:10:13,600
and going into unknown

214
00:10:13,600 --> 00:10:16,560
this is gonna be fun

215
00:10:16,640 --> 00:10:18,580
i'm windy you climbing okay

216
00:10:18,580 --> 00:10:21,759
[Music]

217
00:10:21,839 --> 00:10:24,480
what the [ __ ]

218
00:10:28,160 --> 00:10:30,399
so the final section of the crux was a

219
00:10:30,399 --> 00:10:32,399
little mystery for me it was already

220
00:10:32,399 --> 00:10:34,240
getting dark mama mia i don't know

221
00:10:34,240 --> 00:10:36,880
what's next so yeah it's not only you

222
00:10:36,880 --> 00:10:39,279
who cannot see much in this clip i'm

223
00:10:39,279 --> 00:10:40,560
flying

224
00:10:40,560 --> 00:10:43,760
and the only idea i was seeing is a huge

225
00:10:43,760 --> 00:10:47,120
dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i

226
00:10:47,120 --> 00:10:50,079
was not sure if that's the right oh my

227
00:10:50,079 --> 00:10:52,720
god wait to do it

228
00:10:52,720 --> 00:10:54,399
okay i'm falling

229
00:10:54,399 --> 00:10:56,959
and after multiple attempts i realized

230
00:10:56,959 --> 00:10:59,839
that i'm not gonna get to the top today

231
00:10:59,839 --> 00:11:01,440
and that's okay

232
00:11:01,440 --> 00:11:03,839
my only goal was to put the next quick

233
00:11:03,839 --> 00:11:06,000
draw

234
00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:07,279
nice

235
00:11:07,279 --> 00:11:09,680
and come back the next day all right

236
00:11:09,680 --> 00:11:12,000
good

237
00:11:12,079 --> 00:11:13,760
what's the plan

238
00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:16,399
i'm going to take it slow today

239
00:11:16,399 --> 00:11:18,720
i'll say take a lot more mel

240
00:11:18,720 --> 00:11:22,399
learning strategy from weak people

241
00:11:22,640 --> 00:11:27,079
i think it's the best way climate

242
00:11:38,720 --> 00:11:41,720
clipping

243
00:11:44,880 --> 00:11:46,320
nice

244
00:11:46,320 --> 00:11:48,800
easy

245
00:11:50,480 --> 00:11:52,000
come on

246
00:11:52,000 --> 00:11:53,440
yeah

247
00:11:53,440 --> 00:11:55,360
yeah yeah

248
00:11:55,360 --> 00:11:57,839
come on

249
00:11:58,160 --> 00:12:01,120
yeah come on

250
00:12:01,519 --> 00:12:05,440
no go for the tick mark come on

251
00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:08,320
yeah

252
00:12:08,720 --> 00:12:11,720
easy

253
00:12:17,600 --> 00:12:18,480
oh

254
00:12:18,480 --> 00:12:21,720
come on

255
00:12:24,639 --> 00:12:27,040
some nice flying

256
00:12:27,040 --> 00:12:29,600
oh well then that was easy this time you

257
00:12:29,600 --> 00:12:31,519
have to be quick though after that move

258
00:12:31,519 --> 00:12:33,279
all right fun time

259
00:12:33,279 --> 00:12:35,920
this is a final part of the crux

260
00:12:35,920 --> 00:12:38,639
which starts with two really good crimps

261
00:12:38,639 --> 00:12:41,760
and a very big move

262
00:12:42,399 --> 00:12:44,399
nice attempt

263
00:12:44,399 --> 00:12:47,680
my foot just flipped

264
00:12:48,160 --> 00:12:50,350
wow you were holding it

265
00:12:50,350 --> 00:12:56,560
[Music]

266
00:12:56,560 --> 00:12:58,079
boom boom

267
00:12:58,079 --> 00:13:01,079
boom

268
00:13:07,520 --> 00:13:11,250
[Music]

269
00:13:16,240 --> 00:13:18,560
nice that's it

270
00:13:18,560 --> 00:13:21,839
okay clipping

271
00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:26,880
okay take

272
00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:29,360
being more strategic today no yeah

273
00:13:29,360 --> 00:13:30,639
definitely

274
00:13:30,639 --> 00:13:33,040
and talking about the strategy here i

275
00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:35,680
hang on the rope again not climbing but

276
00:13:35,680 --> 00:13:37,680
inspecting the route searching for the

277
00:13:37,680 --> 00:13:41,199
footholds and handholds

278
00:13:41,199 --> 00:13:43,680
climbing i actually wanted to start just

279
00:13:43,680 --> 00:13:46,800
a few moves before the big move to see

280
00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:52,000
how my setup flows into the dino

281
00:13:54,740 --> 00:13:56,240
[Music]

282
00:13:56,240 --> 00:13:58,880
nice ben

283
00:14:00,240 --> 00:14:02,959
[ __ ] so since this was the first time of

284
00:14:02,959 --> 00:14:05,199
me in this position in daylight

285
00:14:05,199 --> 00:14:07,519
obviously i didn't had the perfect beta

286
00:14:07,519 --> 00:14:10,240
yet but it's okay the step one was just

287
00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:12,320
to do whatever it takes to clip the next

288
00:14:12,320 --> 00:14:15,199
quick draw that's it that's it

289
00:14:15,199 --> 00:14:16,959
and then optimize

290
00:14:16,959 --> 00:14:19,440
okay take me here i want to

291
00:14:19,440 --> 00:14:22,000
find phone calls slopper

292
00:14:22,000 --> 00:14:25,880
yeah this slopper is nice

293
00:14:36,560 --> 00:14:39,279
so when obvious doesn't work you have to

294
00:14:39,279 --> 00:14:40,800
try something else

295
00:14:40,800 --> 00:14:42,959
while for me and charlie the dino was

296
00:14:42,959 --> 00:14:44,639
working pretty well

297
00:14:44,639 --> 00:14:47,600
hannah decided to climb around it i just

298
00:14:47,600 --> 00:14:49,440
wanted to try

299
00:14:49,440 --> 00:14:52,320
what the [ __ ]

300
00:14:52,800 --> 00:14:54,880
maybe this is gonna work you could you

301
00:14:54,880 --> 00:14:56,720
get left hand where your right is

302
00:14:56,720 --> 00:14:59,720
somehow

303
00:15:07,920 --> 00:15:09,279
nice

304
00:15:09,279 --> 00:15:13,000
nice nice nice

305
00:15:22,560 --> 00:15:25,680
above on the right

306
00:15:25,680 --> 00:15:28,079
so we spent two half days projecting

307
00:15:28,079 --> 00:15:30,240
this route and the goal for these first

308
00:15:30,240 --> 00:15:32,560
two days was just to break and tire

309
00:15:32,560 --> 00:15:34,720
route down into multiple sections

310
00:15:34,720 --> 00:15:37,279
ideally from rest position to rest

311
00:15:37,279 --> 00:15:39,680
position or in this case since this

312
00:15:39,680 --> 00:15:42,480
route had very long and complicated crux

313
00:15:42,480 --> 00:15:44,639
i decided to break down the crux into

314
00:15:44,639 --> 00:15:46,880
multiple sections as well so while

315
00:15:46,880 --> 00:15:49,680
entire route might look really long

316
00:15:49,680 --> 00:15:52,480
intimidating and hard and complicated if

317
00:15:52,480 --> 00:15:54,320
you start using divide and conquer

318
00:15:54,320 --> 00:15:56,800
principle that will for sure become

319
00:15:56,800 --> 00:15:59,519
easier so i go first because i don't

320
00:15:59,519 --> 00:16:02,320
like to be stressed if you stand

321
00:16:02,320 --> 00:16:04,720
and then i have to climb i feel more

322
00:16:04,720 --> 00:16:07,199
stressy so i will sand and then you can

323
00:16:07,199 --> 00:16:09,839
kill that

324
00:16:10,000 --> 00:16:12,160
i don't think that's fair but i'll take

325
00:16:12,160 --> 00:16:12,470
it

326
00:16:12,470 --> 00:16:14,399
[Music]

327
00:16:14,399 --> 00:16:17,279
i think it's okay i think it's okay

328
00:16:17,279 --> 00:16:19,759
and so after working out the moves we

329
00:16:19,759 --> 00:16:22,720
took few rest days and finally it was

330
00:16:22,720 --> 00:16:25,120
time to deal with descending pressure

331
00:16:25,120 --> 00:16:28,720
everything looks different in the sun

332
00:16:28,720 --> 00:16:30,480
now you might be wondering why the hell

333
00:16:30,480 --> 00:16:32,880
we are climbing in direct sun

334
00:16:32,880 --> 00:16:35,839
well yes it's true that sun will make

335
00:16:35,839 --> 00:16:37,600
the friction worse

336
00:16:37,600 --> 00:16:40,639
however it was a relatively cold day and

337
00:16:40,639 --> 00:16:43,199
i just wanted to treat the first go as a

338
00:16:43,199 --> 00:16:45,680
warm-up without worrying about sending

339
00:16:45,680 --> 00:16:49,120
too much so whatever happens happens

340
00:16:49,120 --> 00:16:51,839
after very easy beginning you have a

341
00:16:51,839 --> 00:16:54,880
mini cracks which starts with this mono

342
00:16:54,880 --> 00:16:58,000
pocket or if you have tiny fingers like

343
00:16:58,000 --> 00:17:00,800
me you can squeeze in two fingers

344
00:17:00,800 --> 00:17:04,000
and then the next move is into tiny tiny

345
00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:05,919
crimp

346
00:17:05,919 --> 00:17:09,360
and you have to pull on it

347
00:17:11,839 --> 00:17:14,480
so definitely not the smartest idea to

348
00:17:14,480 --> 00:17:17,439
do such moves without a proper warm-up

349
00:17:17,439 --> 00:17:20,720
or on a warm-up go in my case

350
00:17:20,720 --> 00:17:23,839
however my strategy sometimes is to just

351
00:17:23,839 --> 00:17:26,319
go for it but be very

352
00:17:26,319 --> 00:17:28,880
observant of my body and if something

353
00:17:28,880 --> 00:17:30,240
feels wrong

354
00:17:30,240 --> 00:17:33,039
stop immediately i also knew that this

355
00:17:33,039 --> 00:17:36,160
route has a lot of rests so i can warm

356
00:17:36,160 --> 00:17:38,880
up on easier sections and then shake it

357
00:17:38,880 --> 00:17:40,960
out during the rests

358
00:17:40,960 --> 00:17:42,640
here you can see me

359
00:17:42,640 --> 00:17:45,360
shaking on every single opportunity and

360
00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:48,320
trying to recover as much as they can

361
00:17:48,320 --> 00:17:51,039
because i knew that for the crux i need

362
00:17:51,039 --> 00:17:54,640
100 of my energy so i try to stay as

363
00:17:54,640 --> 00:17:58,400
calm as possible and rest longer than i

364
00:17:58,400 --> 00:18:00,720
think i will need

365
00:18:00,720 --> 00:18:06,520
in the dark creeps no come on you got it

366
00:18:23,240 --> 00:18:29,509
[Music]

367
00:18:34,559 --> 00:18:36,520
nice

368
00:18:36,520 --> 00:18:39,819
[Music]

369
00:18:45,020 --> 00:18:48,220
[Music]

370
00:18:48,980 --> 00:18:52,150
[Applause]

371
00:18:53,679 --> 00:18:56,679
nice

372
00:19:06,320 --> 00:19:09,640
nice buddy

373
00:19:16,720 --> 00:19:19,120
well done i'm not yet

374
00:19:19,120 --> 00:19:21,840
so while it looks like it's done it's

375
00:19:21,840 --> 00:19:25,400
actually far from it my forearms are

376
00:19:25,400 --> 00:19:28,559
exploding i'm holding two crimps that

377
00:19:28,559 --> 00:19:31,360
would be quite good however i'm so

378
00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:34,960
pumped that they are far from being good

379
00:19:34,960 --> 00:19:37,360
plus i know that my mind tends to go

380
00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:39,520
into kind of tunnel vision when i get

381
00:19:39,520 --> 00:19:41,840
really tired and it's really hard to

382
00:19:41,840 --> 00:19:42,720
focus

383
00:19:42,720 --> 00:19:45,200
so at the same time i'm waiting for the

384
00:19:45,200 --> 00:19:48,000
clarity to come back i'm desperately

385
00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:50,480
trying to find a better hold or better

386
00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:53,360
body position that could allow me to

387
00:19:53,360 --> 00:19:56,559
shake just a little bit more to

388
00:19:56,559 --> 00:19:59,520
not rush me into the next moves yet

389
00:19:59,520 --> 00:20:02,080
because i really don't want to mess up

390
00:20:02,080 --> 00:20:04,240
here

391
00:20:04,240 --> 00:20:06,400
i don't know how to swap arms

392
00:20:06,400 --> 00:20:08,880
but since the holes are not that good to

393
00:20:08,880 --> 00:20:11,520
rest on i knew that i have to start

394
00:20:11,520 --> 00:20:14,240
thinking what's next and the next is the

395
00:20:14,240 --> 00:20:17,280
left hand up so i decided to swap my

396
00:20:17,280 --> 00:20:19,919
arms so my right arm stays on the better

397
00:20:19,919 --> 00:20:22,640
part of the hold quick glance over the

398
00:20:22,640 --> 00:20:27,120
footholds and hope for the best

399
00:20:29,840 --> 00:20:33,240
nice dude

400
00:20:40,720 --> 00:20:43,360
so a little camera teleportation magic

401
00:20:43,360 --> 00:20:46,000
while i'm enjoying the last rest

402
00:20:46,000 --> 00:20:48,720
and a final section which is not really

403
00:20:48,720 --> 00:20:52,159
hard but a little bit tricky and tricky

404
00:20:52,159 --> 00:20:54,480
is not that great when you are under

405
00:20:54,480 --> 00:20:56,320
sending pressure

406
00:20:56,320 --> 00:20:58,960
good trying

407
00:20:59,440 --> 00:21:00,799
come on

408
00:21:00,799 --> 00:21:03,840
come on dude

409
00:21:13,919 --> 00:21:16,919
nice

410
00:21:21,679 --> 00:21:24,320
so only few moves left but as a true

411
00:21:24,320 --> 00:21:26,240
weak climber i couldn't miss an

412
00:21:26,240 --> 00:21:28,480
opportunity for a good shake

413
00:21:28,480 --> 00:21:31,360
notice that i'm not rushing to clip here

414
00:21:31,360 --> 00:21:33,840
it's much better to shake it out first

415
00:21:33,840 --> 00:21:36,640
get into a better position and only then

416
00:21:36,640 --> 00:21:40,080
clip also notice my left leg i stepped

417
00:21:40,080 --> 00:21:42,880
out of overhang as much as i can this

418
00:21:42,880 --> 00:21:44,720
makes my position

419
00:21:44,720 --> 00:21:47,200
way less overhanging and much better to

420
00:21:47,200 --> 00:21:48,960
rest

421
00:21:48,960 --> 00:21:52,080
and since i'm very close to sending my

422
00:21:52,080 --> 00:21:54,880
sending pressure keeps going up and up

423
00:21:54,880 --> 00:21:56,080
and up

424
00:21:56,080 --> 00:21:58,799
and the trick is to

425
00:21:58,799 --> 00:22:04,120
at least try to stay as calm as you can

426
00:22:04,350 --> 00:22:12,809
[Music]

427
00:22:30,280 --> 00:22:33,329
[Music]

428
00:22:36,799 --> 00:22:40,600
how does that feel dude

429
00:22:41,290 --> 00:22:43,200
[Music]

430
00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:44,720
trying to get my

431
00:22:44,720 --> 00:22:47,120
breath back back

432
00:22:47,120 --> 00:22:49,360
um

433
00:22:50,320 --> 00:22:53,840
it's even the easiest 7c i've ever

434
00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:54,960
or

435
00:22:54,960 --> 00:22:56,960
i got already stronger so till this

436
00:22:56,960 --> 00:22:59,200
point it's been only two months of me

437
00:22:59,200 --> 00:23:01,440
training with lattice guys so it's a bit

438
00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:04,400
early to judge what kind of effect that

439
00:23:04,400 --> 00:23:06,960
had on my climbing performance however

440
00:23:06,960 --> 00:23:09,360
in next video i'm gonna show you how all

441
00:23:09,360 --> 00:23:12,000
of my training looked like

442
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:12,960
and

443
00:23:12,960 --> 00:23:16,000
some numbers but for now it's charlie's

444
00:23:16,000 --> 00:23:19,799
time to send this 7c

445
00:23:20,570 --> 00:23:23,039
[Music]

446
00:23:23,039 --> 00:23:26,039
uh

447
00:23:29,650 --> 00:23:35,200
[Music]

448
00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:37,990
nice come on

449
00:23:37,990 --> 00:23:42,159
[Music]

450
00:23:42,159 --> 00:23:44,320
yeah come on

451
00:23:44,320 --> 00:23:45,910
nice

452
00:23:45,910 --> 00:23:52,159
[Music]

453
00:23:52,159 --> 00:23:55,120
come on you got this

454
00:23:57,919 --> 00:24:00,880
yeah come on

455
00:24:01,600 --> 00:24:03,600
come on buddy

456
00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:05,440
yeah come on

457
00:24:05,440 --> 00:24:07,840
come on

458
00:24:09,490 --> 00:24:10,960
[Music]

459
00:24:10,960 --> 00:24:14,080
yeah come on

460
00:24:14,640 --> 00:24:18,120
come on come on

461
00:24:22,080 --> 00:24:24,640
knew it dude

462
00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:27,840
you knew it i knew it you knew wrong

463
00:24:27,840 --> 00:24:30,840
thanks yeah i almost lose my

464
00:24:30,840 --> 00:24:33,120
feet yeah you need to work on the

465
00:24:33,120 --> 00:24:36,000
section after this big move so well

466
00:24:36,000 --> 00:24:38,000
classic mistake of not having the

467
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,720
perfect beta right after the hardest

468
00:24:40,720 --> 00:24:43,600
move because that's charlie his send on

469
00:24:43,600 --> 00:24:44,880
the first go

470
00:24:44,880 --> 00:24:47,279
he tried to fix that and this is his

471
00:24:47,279 --> 00:24:48,890
second goal for the day

472
00:24:48,890 --> 00:24:50,159
[Music]

473
00:24:50,159 --> 00:24:50,750
come on

474
00:24:50,750 --> 00:24:52,240
[Music]

475
00:24:52,240 --> 00:24:54,720
come on

476
00:24:58,960 --> 00:25:00,480
come on

477
00:25:00,480 --> 00:25:02,720
yeah

478
00:25:02,720 --> 00:25:04,559
come on

479
00:25:04,559 --> 00:25:07,520
yeah yeah come on come on

480
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:10,799
come on come on come on

481
00:25:10,799 --> 00:25:11,840
no

482
00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:14,240
man

483
00:25:18,320 --> 00:25:21,039
but no cigar

484
00:25:21,360 --> 00:25:24,159
but very very close

485
00:25:24,159 --> 00:25:25,360
i really want to do it today though

486
00:25:25,360 --> 00:25:27,360
that's the thing

487
00:25:27,360 --> 00:25:30,559
so stress and pressure it's probably

488
00:25:30,559 --> 00:25:33,039
inevitable to happen when you're trying

489
00:25:33,039 --> 00:25:36,159
to push your max grade while sometimes

490
00:25:36,159 --> 00:25:38,559
you might just get lucky and send most

491
00:25:38,559 --> 00:25:40,640
of the time it's actually better to

492
00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,880
allow yourself to fail just tell

493
00:25:42,880 --> 00:25:45,039
yourself i'm gonna climb this route as

494
00:25:45,039 --> 00:25:48,320
far as i can and if i fail that's okay

495
00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:50,480
no i think you did this way too easy you

496
00:25:50,480 --> 00:25:52,480
did this all this there's another aa

497
00:25:52,480 --> 00:25:55,600
here now if your mind resists the idea

498
00:25:55,600 --> 00:25:58,320
that failing is okay just keep pushing

499
00:25:58,320 --> 00:26:00,159
through it because the reality is

500
00:26:00,159 --> 00:26:02,480
whether you send or you don't

501
00:26:02,480 --> 00:26:04,240
nothing is gonna change in your life

502
00:26:04,240 --> 00:26:06,400
after every fail you're still alive

503
00:26:06,400 --> 00:26:08,960
you're still surrounded by great friends

504
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:11,679
having great time

505
00:26:11,679 --> 00:26:13,840
in action so by pushing through these

506
00:26:13,840 --> 00:26:16,480
fails the pressure will start going

507
00:26:16,480 --> 00:26:18,240
lower and lower and lower until it

508
00:26:18,240 --> 00:26:20,240
becomes manageable and at some point

509
00:26:20,240 --> 00:26:22,799
chances are that you are going to send

510
00:26:22,799 --> 00:26:24,559
what is superglue apparently was made in

511
00:26:24,559 --> 00:26:25,679
the

512
00:26:25,679 --> 00:26:28,240
second world war to close wounds so we

513
00:26:28,240 --> 00:26:30,559
are closing the wounds now

514
00:26:30,559 --> 00:26:32,400
so we're closing wounds well the best

515
00:26:32,400 --> 00:26:34,400
way to find out if this works

516
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:36,320
is uh well the best way i can find out

517
00:26:36,320 --> 00:26:38,320
is test it on somebody else and then

518
00:26:38,320 --> 00:26:40,080
you'll get loads of comments on saying

519
00:26:40,080 --> 00:26:42,480
how to do it correctly

520
00:26:42,480 --> 00:26:44,159
okay let's do it

521
00:26:44,159 --> 00:26:46,240
let's do it

522
00:26:46,240 --> 00:26:49,760
i suppose let's just do that there

523
00:26:50,320 --> 00:26:51,520
okay

524
00:26:51,520 --> 00:26:53,679
you think i should press it together or

525
00:26:53,679 --> 00:26:55,520
just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't

526
00:26:55,520 --> 00:26:57,919
know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going

527
00:26:57,919 --> 00:27:00,000
i'll see you guys later so now you feel

528
00:27:00,000 --> 00:27:01,919
like sending

529
00:27:01,919 --> 00:27:06,559
yes i mean i stick to the wall now

530
00:27:06,559 --> 00:27:07,760
you need to hold your finger up in the

531
00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:10,000
wind

532
00:27:11,520 --> 00:27:13,360
like this yeah yeah yeah

533
00:27:13,360 --> 00:27:15,360
the wind's coming i know the answer

534
00:27:15,360 --> 00:27:17,360
the wind's coming from that way though

535
00:27:17,360 --> 00:27:19,120
now you know the answer it's getting

536
00:27:19,120 --> 00:27:21,200
there it's getting there really

537
00:27:21,200 --> 00:27:23,120
okay we wait we wait but then you can

538
00:27:23,120 --> 00:27:24,720
sand it down and you can make the finger

539
00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:25,919
you want

540
00:27:25,919 --> 00:27:27,520
you can you can do it

541
00:27:27,520 --> 00:27:29,440
you can have the perfect perfect this

542
00:27:29,440 --> 00:27:31,679
sounds great can you also tell for

543
00:27:31,679 --> 00:27:36,799
people to not do this yeah don't do it

544
00:27:37,039 --> 00:27:38,720
i'm gonna give it one go hike or my

545
00:27:38,720 --> 00:27:42,520
finger already hurts

546
00:27:45,890 --> 00:27:49,119
[Music]

547
00:27:51,360 --> 00:27:54,320
yeah yeah pink

548
00:27:54,320 --> 00:27:56,000
nice

549
00:27:56,000 --> 00:27:58,340
right leg up

550
00:27:58,340 --> 00:28:09,940
[Music]

551
00:28:12,320 --> 00:28:14,910
this move is not hard at all

552
00:28:14,910 --> 00:28:17,200
[Music]

553
00:28:17,200 --> 00:28:20,480
why don't you get rid of the tape

554
00:28:22,320 --> 00:28:23,840
it's open again

555
00:28:23,840 --> 00:28:26,640
oh really yeah

556
00:28:27,120 --> 00:28:28,720
i would not climb

557
00:28:28,720 --> 00:28:32,399
low on me let it heal

558
00:28:34,880 --> 00:28:35,840
[ __ ]

559
00:28:35,840 --> 00:28:38,000
i'm delay slave today

560
00:28:38,000 --> 00:28:40,720
so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't

561
00:28:40,720 --> 00:28:42,960
work at all

562
00:28:42,960 --> 00:28:44,399
i have now

563
00:28:44,399 --> 00:28:45,840
yeah so

564
00:28:45,840 --> 00:28:48,799
real life is not always a movie although

565
00:28:48,799 --> 00:28:51,039
you're kind of watching a movie

566
00:28:51,039 --> 00:28:52,799
but at the same time you're watching a

567
00:28:52,799 --> 00:28:54,240
real life

568
00:28:54,240 --> 00:28:56,640
and real life doesn't always have a

569
00:28:56,640 --> 00:28:59,840
happy ending

570
00:29:07,679 --> 00:29:10,399
what happened

571
00:29:10,960 --> 00:29:13,840
i'm not sure dude

572
00:29:21,360 --> 00:29:24,640
this hole is so [ __ ] hard now

573
00:29:24,640 --> 00:29:26,880
yummy

574
00:29:26,880 --> 00:29:28,559
pressure

575
00:29:28,559 --> 00:29:30,799
under pressure

576
00:29:30,799 --> 00:29:34,000
under pressure yep as i already said

577
00:29:34,000 --> 00:29:36,080
sometimes the best way to deal with

578
00:29:36,080 --> 00:29:37,200
pressure

579
00:29:37,200 --> 00:29:41,200
is to just let it beat you then stand up

580
00:29:41,200 --> 00:29:42,880
and try again

581
00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:45,440
it will make your mind much stronger not

582
00:29:45,440 --> 00:29:49,440
only in climbing but in life as

583
00:29:52,840 --> 00:29:56,919
well on

584
00:30:00,040 --> 00:30:04,180
[Music]

585
00:30:04,180 --> 00:30:07,269
[Applause]

586
00:30:17,039 --> 00:30:19,279
come on you got this

587
00:30:19,279 --> 00:30:22,080
yeah come on

588
00:30:25,040 --> 00:30:28,190
[Music]

589
00:30:34,720 --> 00:30:38,559
just need a moment yeah

590
00:30:42,000 --> 00:30:44,000
i was like if he's gonna whip on this

591
00:30:44,000 --> 00:30:45,360
clip

592
00:30:45,360 --> 00:30:47,919
imagine that

593
00:30:47,919 --> 00:30:51,600
oh i'm shaking dude

594
00:30:51,600 --> 00:30:53,520
climb to a bit higher and then try to

595
00:30:53,520 --> 00:30:54,640
rest here

596
00:30:54,640 --> 00:30:55,440
yeah

597
00:30:55,440 --> 00:30:57,360
this right hand side pull is really good

598
00:30:57,360 --> 00:31:00,519
for resting

599
00:31:01,790 --> 00:31:05,200
[Music]

600
00:31:05,200 --> 00:31:05,840
okay

601
00:31:05,840 --> 00:31:07,200
[Music]

602
00:31:07,200 --> 00:31:10,679
okay enjoy

603
00:31:11,440 --> 00:31:21,120
[Music]

604
00:31:21,120 --> 00:31:24,360
thank you

605
00:31:30,110 --> 00:31:41,060
[Music]

606
00:31:42,240 --> 00:31:43,600
nice

607
00:31:43,600 --> 00:31:46,840
come on

608
00:31:48,240 --> 00:31:50,640
yeah

609
00:31:50,640 --> 00:31:53,200
nice

610
00:31:55,060 --> 00:31:58,080
[Music]

611
00:31:58,080 --> 00:32:02,159
you are gonna fall now a danker

612
00:32:02,799 --> 00:32:03,919
come on

613
00:32:03,919 --> 00:32:06,320
that would suck wouldn't it

614
00:32:06,320 --> 00:32:08,559
whoa

615
00:32:09,600 --> 00:32:12,240
dude i was there just shaking away like

616
00:32:12,240 --> 00:32:14,480
can like calm down calm down i couldn't

617
00:32:14,480 --> 00:32:16,080
i couldn't i was like if i stay here any

618
00:32:16,080 --> 00:32:19,519
longer i'm just making it worse like

619
00:32:19,519 --> 00:32:22,480
but yeah it went nicely good run you too

620
00:32:22,480 --> 00:32:24,640
dude well done good send as well good

621
00:32:24,640 --> 00:32:25,840
balloon

622
00:32:25,840 --> 00:32:27,840
really good playing in a

623
00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:30,559
how did the harness feel yes super nice

624
00:32:30,559 --> 00:32:33,279
like whoa you felt the difference yeah a

625
00:32:33,279 --> 00:32:34,000
lot

626
00:32:34,000 --> 00:32:35,840
why are you doing marketing to mommy

627
00:32:35,840 --> 00:32:37,840
yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm

628
00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:40,880
all right so he's not so i will since

629
00:32:40,880 --> 00:32:42,880
mahmoud has been a huge support for my

630
00:32:42,880 --> 00:32:44,799
channel i wanted to say special thank

631
00:32:44,799 --> 00:32:46,880
you for that and the story behind the

632
00:32:46,880 --> 00:32:49,200
harness is that we've been recording a

633
00:32:49,200 --> 00:32:51,600
ton of delaying experiments and mel's

634
00:32:51,600 --> 00:32:54,080
legs started hurting from flying all the

635
00:32:54,080 --> 00:32:58,159
time that's for hurting your legs

636
00:32:58,159 --> 00:33:00,240
so thank you mel for flying and mammoth

637
00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:02,720
for supporting and in the next episode

638
00:33:02,720 --> 00:33:04,840
we will jump on our first

639
00:33:04,840 --> 00:33:09,080
8a come on

640
00:33:17,200 --> 00:33:19,360
it's kind of beautiful here

641
00:33:19,360 --> 00:33:21,919
you want to see

642
00:33:23,360 --> 00:33:24,559
cool now

643
00:33:24,559 --> 00:33:26,480
so as always

644
00:33:26,480 --> 00:33:27,840
enjoy climbing

645
00:33:27,840 --> 00:33:29,200
projecting

646
00:33:29,200 --> 00:33:30,080
and

647
00:33:30,080 --> 00:33:32,080
if you want some karma points you can

648
00:33:32,080 --> 00:33:33,679
visit my website

649
00:33:33,679 --> 00:33:36,240
that helps me to pay the bills

650
00:33:36,240 --> 00:33:39,760
and see you in the next episode