WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:02.320 the best way to find out if this works 00:00:02.320 --> 00:00:04.400 is well the best way i can find out is 00:00:04.400 --> 00:00:06.480 test it on somebody else and then you'll 00:00:06.480 --> 00:00:07.760 get loads of comments 00:00:07.760 --> 00:00:10.949 [Music] 00:00:13.920 --> 00:00:17.160 come on 00:00:17.680 --> 00:00:19.119 come on come on 00:00:19.119 --> 00:00:21.359 no 00:00:21.439 --> 00:00:24.560 wow you were holding it 00:00:26.160 --> 00:00:28.960 alright welcome to part two of heart is 00:00:28.960 --> 00:00:31.519 easy where in first episode i took 00:00:31.519 --> 00:00:34.800 lattice training performance assessment 00:00:34.800 --> 00:00:38.480 and my performance wasn't let's say 00:00:38.480 --> 00:00:40.800 much of a performance 00:00:40.800 --> 00:00:44.399 so how weak are my fingers good question 00:00:44.399 --> 00:00:46.399 so in half crimp we are coming in around 00:00:46.399 --> 00:00:49.120 110 and typically what we're seeing for 00:00:49.120 --> 00:00:51.840 for the 7c level in sport climbing is 00:00:51.840 --> 00:00:54.480 around 150 body weight so i'm like 00:00:54.480 --> 00:00:56.480 really far from 00:00:56.480 --> 00:00:59.280 7c climber it's quite it's quite far out 00:00:59.280 --> 00:01:00.879 so if you want to see the full 00:01:00.879 --> 00:01:03.280 assessment it's in this video and if you 00:01:03.280 --> 00:01:06.000 want to see how somebody weak like me 00:01:06.000 --> 00:01:08.799 can climb hard roots easy it's in this 00:01:08.799 --> 00:01:11.119 video but jokes aside of course what's 00:01:11.119 --> 00:01:13.040 hard or easy it's very subjective 00:01:13.040 --> 00:01:14.960 however i thought i'm gonna share with 00:01:14.960 --> 00:01:17.439 you my projecting tactics and maybe you 00:01:17.439 --> 00:01:20.720 will find something useful 00:01:20.720 --> 00:01:22.479 now in case you missed the previous 00:01:22.479 --> 00:01:25.600 episode this is charlie to the right you 00:01:25.600 --> 00:01:29.280 see that yeah he has one pad more rich 00:01:29.280 --> 00:01:31.360 on each side and he's smaller he has 00:01:31.360 --> 00:01:33.840 just more room so this is like monkey in 00:01:33.840 --> 00:01:35.520 action i swear bolder and does it though 00:01:35.520 --> 00:01:38.479 you'll get longer arms 00:01:38.840 --> 00:01:40.720 okay 00:01:40.720 --> 00:01:43.520 it's a nice joke 00:01:43.520 --> 00:01:46.799 that is a really nice hold 00:01:49.520 --> 00:01:52.000 come on 00:01:53.040 --> 00:01:55.360 and it's looking like the only nice hole 00:01:55.360 --> 00:01:59.439 weak climber projecting rule number one 00:01:59.439 --> 00:02:02.240 don't climb first save your energy let 00:02:02.240 --> 00:02:04.240 your friend to put the quick draws for 00:02:04.240 --> 00:02:07.360 you and find those nice holes so you can 00:02:07.360 --> 00:02:09.520 stay happily weak and if you don't know 00:02:09.520 --> 00:02:12.000 how to convince your friend to go first 00:02:12.000 --> 00:02:13.680 here is an example will you put your 00:02:13.680 --> 00:02:16.160 dress yourself or you need our help 00:02:16.160 --> 00:02:18.000 i don't need your help 00:02:18.000 --> 00:02:20.640 i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on 00:02:20.640 --> 00:02:23.920 myself lately i went always climbing 00:02:23.920 --> 00:02:27.920 with guys who weren't that gentlemanish 00:02:27.920 --> 00:02:29.760 wait so you're giving draws to somebody 00:02:29.760 --> 00:02:30.879 else 00:02:30.879 --> 00:02:32.879 no no hannah said before that she keeps 00:02:32.879 --> 00:02:34.840 putting the drawers blah 00:02:34.840 --> 00:02:38.959 blah i i just said you don't have to 00:02:38.959 --> 00:02:41.280 so this actually was the crux of the 00:02:41.280 --> 00:02:42.160 route 00:02:42.160 --> 00:02:44.800 where you have to be either very strong 00:02:44.800 --> 00:02:47.680 or very creative 00:02:47.680 --> 00:02:50.680 okay 00:02:55.930 --> 00:02:59.360 [Music] 00:02:59.360 --> 00:03:01.440 no 00:03:01.440 --> 00:03:05.400 we're still on site 00:03:08.560 --> 00:03:09.680 wow 00:03:09.680 --> 00:03:11.920 so for the right hand you have this 00:03:11.920 --> 00:03:15.519 slippery crimpy hold which is really not 00:03:15.519 --> 00:03:16.319 good 00:03:16.319 --> 00:03:21.040 and then the next hold is quite far off 00:03:22.319 --> 00:03:24.799 and this is hana trying the same move 00:03:24.799 --> 00:03:27.840 the next hold is this crimpy side pull 00:03:27.840 --> 00:03:31.159 right here 00:03:32.879 --> 00:03:35.519 okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta 00:03:35.519 --> 00:03:38.319 yeah i'm going to come into this one 00:03:38.319 --> 00:03:40.879 beta beta but 00:03:40.879 --> 00:03:43.120 i don't know what's correct 00:03:43.120 --> 00:03:46.360 come on 00:03:59.680 --> 00:04:02.879 that is a killer so after trying to 00:04:02.879 --> 00:04:05.599 brute force the crux in many different 00:04:05.599 --> 00:04:07.760 ways 00:04:07.760 --> 00:04:11.360 no way dude no way charlie finally came 00:04:11.360 --> 00:04:15.120 up with idea how to do it 00:04:16.400 --> 00:04:19.280 which was to kick the left leg to the 00:04:19.280 --> 00:04:24.560 wall and do a drop knee yeah come on 00:04:24.800 --> 00:04:28.400 so not very obvious but such a fun move 00:04:28.400 --> 00:04:30.160 right leg up 00:04:30.160 --> 00:04:33.600 and left leg kicks into the wall 00:04:33.600 --> 00:04:36.639 that's what you need to do 00:04:37.520 --> 00:04:40.710 drop me 00:04:40.710 --> 00:04:44.720 [Laughter] 00:04:44.720 --> 00:04:46.639 if you actually drop me more you will 00:04:46.639 --> 00:04:50.160 not need to use passat yet 00:04:50.160 --> 00:04:51.680 save it for later 00:04:51.680 --> 00:04:54.560 you always need two percent 00:04:54.560 --> 00:04:57.360 so that's actually not always the case 00:04:57.360 --> 00:04:59.919 oftentimes it's more about understanding 00:04:59.919 --> 00:05:03.039 the move yeah now the feet up up up and 00:05:03.039 --> 00:05:04.960 kick 00:05:04.960 --> 00:05:06.720 yeah and kick 00:05:06.720 --> 00:05:08.400 and drop knee drop knees stay close to 00:05:08.400 --> 00:05:09.360 the wall 00:05:09.360 --> 00:05:12.240 that's it that's it 00:05:12.800 --> 00:05:14.639 i cannot drop anymore 00:05:14.639 --> 00:05:16.880 yeah 00:05:19.039 --> 00:05:21.360 so we analyzed these moves in the 00:05:21.360 --> 00:05:23.600 evening and this is what happened the 00:05:23.600 --> 00:05:26.080 next day 00:05:27.199 --> 00:05:29.350 what the [ __ ] this was easy 00:05:29.350 --> 00:05:32.160 [Music] 00:05:32.160 --> 00:05:34.240 now change the drop knee to other side 00:05:34.240 --> 00:05:37.039 and right arm up 00:05:37.120 --> 00:05:39.039 yeah 00:05:39.039 --> 00:05:40.560 yeah 00:05:40.560 --> 00:05:41.520 okay 00:05:41.520 --> 00:05:44.720 so this left leg ninja move unlocked the 00:05:44.720 --> 00:05:46.560 first half of the crux 00:05:46.560 --> 00:05:47.759 however 00:05:47.759 --> 00:05:52.199 it's not over yet 00:05:59.120 --> 00:06:02.600 right leg up 00:06:07.280 --> 00:06:09.600 all right since weak climbers we have 00:06:09.600 --> 00:06:11.680 very limited amount of energy rule 00:06:11.680 --> 00:06:15.360 number two is to save it 00:06:16.560 --> 00:06:20.280 okay take me here 00:06:21.199 --> 00:06:25.360 see how weak people solve problems 00:06:27.280 --> 00:06:29.919 so instead of trying the moves from get 00:06:29.919 --> 00:06:32.639 go sometimes it's actually better to 00:06:32.639 --> 00:06:35.440 take and get yourself familiar with the 00:06:35.440 --> 00:06:38.160 holes search for hidden holes and 00:06:38.160 --> 00:06:41.039 opportunities and since i saw charlie 00:06:41.039 --> 00:06:42.639 already 00:06:42.639 --> 00:06:45.280 i knew that i have to try this kick and 00:06:45.280 --> 00:06:48.400 a drop knee 00:06:48.400 --> 00:06:50.720 come on man okay take 00:06:50.720 --> 00:06:52.639 and right away when i understand that 00:06:52.639 --> 00:06:55.599 the move works i take to save the energy 00:06:55.599 --> 00:06:57.520 and now i can try the moves that i 00:06:57.520 --> 00:06:59.520 skipped now lower me a bit i want to see 00:06:59.520 --> 00:07:01.599 if i can link 00:07:01.599 --> 00:07:05.360 a bit more up so this is that 00:07:05.360 --> 00:07:08.960 this and that this is that this and that 00:07:08.960 --> 00:07:12.050 i mean okay 00:07:12.050 --> 00:07:16.560 [Music] 00:07:16.560 --> 00:07:18.319 whoa 00:07:18.319 --> 00:07:20.479 you're good yeah i'm good i'm good 00:07:20.479 --> 00:07:22.560 that's why we wear helmets 00:07:22.560 --> 00:07:25.199 as a player 00:07:25.199 --> 00:07:26.400 it broke 00:07:26.400 --> 00:07:28.240 i think football 00:07:28.240 --> 00:07:30.560 and the other one is also moving yeah 00:07:30.560 --> 00:07:34.240 you need to step on another part 00:07:36.720 --> 00:07:38.880 next i wanted to start from this rest 00:07:38.880 --> 00:07:41.520 hold and see if i can do the kick and 00:07:41.520 --> 00:07:44.160 the drop knee and the trick here was to 00:07:44.160 --> 00:07:47.199 find which footholds will work for me 00:07:47.199 --> 00:07:49.680 which i got lucky in the first go 00:07:49.680 --> 00:07:51.680 critic 00:07:51.680 --> 00:07:53.120 good 00:07:53.120 --> 00:07:56.000 next so as you can see on a first go i'm 00:07:56.000 --> 00:07:58.240 not even trying to climb big sections 00:07:58.240 --> 00:08:00.720 continuously the reality about our 00:08:00.720 --> 00:08:02.800 muscles is that the more 00:08:02.800 --> 00:08:05.680 tired we get the more pumped we get the 00:08:05.680 --> 00:08:07.919 longer it takes for them to recover so 00:08:07.919 --> 00:08:10.400 they can deliver anywhere close to max 00:08:10.400 --> 00:08:13.039 power and max power is what you need to 00:08:13.039 --> 00:08:15.599 efficiently work out the hardest parts 00:08:15.599 --> 00:08:16.879 of the route 00:08:16.879 --> 00:08:18.800 now the fun part 00:08:18.800 --> 00:08:20.639 from here 00:08:20.639 --> 00:08:23.599 there also before i start a new section 00:08:23.599 --> 00:08:26.160 it's very important to stand in exactly 00:08:26.160 --> 00:08:28.160 the same position where i finished the 00:08:28.160 --> 00:08:30.960 previous section if i don't do that it's 00:08:30.960 --> 00:08:32.880 going to be very difficult to flow 00:08:32.880 --> 00:08:34.640 between these different sections and 00:08:34.640 --> 00:08:36.880 this is actually quite common mistake 00:08:36.880 --> 00:08:38.320 okay 00:08:38.320 --> 00:08:41.560 do this 00:08:43.279 --> 00:08:45.279 if you can put a drawer in 00:08:45.279 --> 00:08:48.240 no it's too far 00:08:48.560 --> 00:08:51.920 don't pull me don't pull me okay 00:08:55.680 --> 00:08:57.680 and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is 00:08:57.680 --> 00:09:01.810 totally normal and every pro does that 00:09:01.810 --> 00:09:04.399 [Laughter] 00:09:04.399 --> 00:09:06.800 now a huge warning about grabbing quick 00:09:06.800 --> 00:09:09.279 draws is that you should avoid grabbing 00:09:09.279 --> 00:09:11.600 your quick draw below you because in 00:09:11.600 --> 00:09:14.399 this case if you would take a fall 00:09:14.399 --> 00:09:16.959 this can happen where you have a lot of 00:09:16.959 --> 00:09:19.440 fall until you are in position where you 00:09:19.440 --> 00:09:22.080 could potentially hold yourself but the 00:09:22.080 --> 00:09:24.640 force will be so big that you might not 00:09:24.640 --> 00:09:27.279 be able to hold on the sling your hand 00:09:27.279 --> 00:09:29.600 will slip and the quick draw can 00:09:29.600 --> 00:09:32.480 penetrate your palm i've seen pictures 00:09:32.480 --> 00:09:35.120 it doesn't look fun okay climbing 00:09:35.120 --> 00:09:37.360 all right next i wanted to link both 00:09:37.360 --> 00:09:40.080 sections together to see how well the 00:09:40.080 --> 00:09:44.160 transition between them flows 00:09:44.560 --> 00:09:47.200 it was also a good time to focus a 00:09:47.200 --> 00:09:50.000 little bit more on footwork this helps a 00:09:50.000 --> 00:09:52.800 lot to remember your foot placements 00:09:52.800 --> 00:09:53.680 and 00:09:53.680 --> 00:09:56.000 potentially do less mistakes in the 00:09:56.000 --> 00:09:58.399 future 00:09:59.120 --> 00:10:01.440 thank you 00:10:02.959 --> 00:10:07.440 nice okay so this is doable so now i 00:10:07.440 --> 00:10:09.600 kind of don't have a plan apart from 00:10:09.600 --> 00:10:11.360 stepping up high 00:10:11.360 --> 00:10:13.600 and going into unknown 00:10:13.600 --> 00:10:16.560 this is gonna be fun 00:10:16.640 --> 00:10:18.580 i'm windy you climbing okay 00:10:18.580 --> 00:10:21.759 [Music] 00:10:21.839 --> 00:10:24.480 what the [ __ ] 00:10:28.160 --> 00:10:30.399 so the final section of the crux was a 00:10:30.399 --> 00:10:32.399 little mystery for me it was already 00:10:32.399 --> 00:10:34.240 getting dark mama mia i don't know 00:10:34.240 --> 00:10:36.880 what's next so yeah it's not only you 00:10:36.880 --> 00:10:39.279 who cannot see much in this clip i'm 00:10:39.279 --> 00:10:40.560 flying 00:10:40.560 --> 00:10:43.760 and the only idea i was seeing is a huge 00:10:43.760 --> 00:10:47.120 dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i 00:10:47.120 --> 00:10:50.079 was not sure if that's the right oh my 00:10:50.079 --> 00:10:52.720 god wait to do it 00:10:52.720 --> 00:10:54.399 okay i'm falling 00:10:54.399 --> 00:10:56.959 and after multiple attempts i realized 00:10:56.959 --> 00:10:59.839 that i'm not gonna get to the top today 00:10:59.839 --> 00:11:01.440 and that's okay 00:11:01.440 --> 00:11:03.839 my only goal was to put the next quick 00:11:03.839 --> 00:11:06.000 draw 00:11:06.000 --> 00:11:07.279 nice 00:11:07.279 --> 00:11:09.680 and come back the next day all right 00:11:09.680 --> 00:11:12.000 good 00:11:12.079 --> 00:11:13.760 what's the plan 00:11:13.760 --> 00:11:16.399 i'm going to take it slow today 00:11:16.399 --> 00:11:18.720 i'll say take a lot more mel 00:11:18.720 --> 00:11:22.399 learning strategy from weak people 00:11:22.640 --> 00:11:27.079 i think it's the best way climate 00:11:38.720 --> 00:11:41.720 clipping 00:11:44.880 --> 00:11:46.320 nice 00:11:46.320 --> 00:11:48.800 easy 00:11:50.480 --> 00:11:52.000 come on 00:11:52.000 --> 00:11:53.440 yeah 00:11:53.440 --> 00:11:55.360 yeah yeah 00:11:55.360 --> 00:11:57.839 come on 00:11:58.160 --> 00:12:01.120 yeah come on 00:12:01.519 --> 00:12:05.440 no go for the tick mark come on 00:12:06.000 --> 00:12:08.320 yeah 00:12:08.720 --> 00:12:11.720 easy 00:12:17.600 --> 00:12:18.480 oh 00:12:18.480 --> 00:12:21.720 come on 00:12:24.639 --> 00:12:27.040 some nice flying 00:12:27.040 --> 00:12:29.600 oh well then that was easy this time you 00:12:29.600 --> 00:12:31.519 have to be quick though after that move 00:12:31.519 --> 00:12:33.279 all right fun time 00:12:33.279 --> 00:12:35.920 this is a final part of the crux 00:12:35.920 --> 00:12:38.639 which starts with two really good crimps 00:12:38.639 --> 00:12:41.760 and a very big move 00:12:42.399 --> 00:12:44.399 nice attempt 00:12:44.399 --> 00:12:47.680 my foot just flipped 00:12:48.160 --> 00:12:50.350 wow you were holding it 00:12:50.350 --> 00:12:56.560 [Music] 00:12:56.560 --> 00:12:58.079 boom boom 00:12:58.079 --> 00:13:01.079 boom 00:13:07.520 --> 00:13:11.250 [Music] 00:13:16.240 --> 00:13:18.560 nice that's it 00:13:18.560 --> 00:13:21.839 okay clipping 00:13:24.240 --> 00:13:26.880 okay take 00:13:27.200 --> 00:13:29.360 being more strategic today no yeah 00:13:29.360 --> 00:13:30.639 definitely 00:13:30.639 --> 00:13:33.040 and talking about the strategy here i 00:13:33.040 --> 00:13:35.680 hang on the rope again not climbing but 00:13:35.680 --> 00:13:37.680 inspecting the route searching for the 00:13:37.680 --> 00:13:41.199 footholds and handholds 00:13:41.199 --> 00:13:43.680 climbing i actually wanted to start just 00:13:43.680 --> 00:13:46.800 a few moves before the big move to see 00:13:46.800 --> 00:13:52.000 how my setup flows into the dino 00:13:54.740 --> 00:13:56.240 [Music] 00:13:56.240 --> 00:13:58.880 nice ben 00:14:00.240 --> 00:14:02.959 [ __ ] so since this was the first time of 00:14:02.959 --> 00:14:05.199 me in this position in daylight 00:14:05.199 --> 00:14:07.519 obviously i didn't had the perfect beta 00:14:07.519 --> 00:14:10.240 yet but it's okay the step one was just 00:14:10.240 --> 00:14:12.320 to do whatever it takes to clip the next 00:14:12.320 --> 00:14:15.199 quick draw that's it that's it 00:14:15.199 --> 00:14:16.959 and then optimize 00:14:16.959 --> 00:14:19.440 okay take me here i want to 00:14:19.440 --> 00:14:22.000 find phone calls slopper 00:14:22.000 --> 00:14:25.880 yeah this slopper is nice 00:14:36.560 --> 00:14:39.279 so when obvious doesn't work you have to 00:14:39.279 --> 00:14:40.800 try something else 00:14:40.800 --> 00:14:42.959 while for me and charlie the dino was 00:14:42.959 --> 00:14:44.639 working pretty well 00:14:44.639 --> 00:14:47.600 hannah decided to climb around it i just 00:14:47.600 --> 00:14:49.440 wanted to try 00:14:49.440 --> 00:14:52.320 what the [ __ ] 00:14:52.800 --> 00:14:54.880 maybe this is gonna work you could you 00:14:54.880 --> 00:14:56.720 get left hand where your right is 00:14:56.720 --> 00:14:59.720 somehow 00:15:07.920 --> 00:15:09.279 nice 00:15:09.279 --> 00:15:13.000 nice nice nice 00:15:22.560 --> 00:15:25.680 above on the right 00:15:25.680 --> 00:15:28.079 so we spent two half days projecting 00:15:28.079 --> 00:15:30.240 this route and the goal for these first 00:15:30.240 --> 00:15:32.560 two days was just to break and tire 00:15:32.560 --> 00:15:34.720 route down into multiple sections 00:15:34.720 --> 00:15:37.279 ideally from rest position to rest 00:15:37.279 --> 00:15:39.680 position or in this case since this 00:15:39.680 --> 00:15:42.480 route had very long and complicated crux 00:15:42.480 --> 00:15:44.639 i decided to break down the crux into 00:15:44.639 --> 00:15:46.880 multiple sections as well so while 00:15:46.880 --> 00:15:49.680 entire route might look really long 00:15:49.680 --> 00:15:52.480 intimidating and hard and complicated if 00:15:52.480 --> 00:15:54.320 you start using divide and conquer 00:15:54.320 --> 00:15:56.800 principle that will for sure become 00:15:56.800 --> 00:15:59.519 easier so i go first because i don't 00:15:59.519 --> 00:16:02.320 like to be stressed if you stand 00:16:02.320 --> 00:16:04.720 and then i have to climb i feel more 00:16:04.720 --> 00:16:07.199 stressy so i will sand and then you can 00:16:07.199 --> 00:16:09.839 kill that 00:16:10.000 --> 00:16:12.160 i don't think that's fair but i'll take 00:16:12.160 --> 00:16:12.470 it 00:16:12.470 --> 00:16:14.399 [Music] 00:16:14.399 --> 00:16:17.279 i think it's okay i think it's okay 00:16:17.279 --> 00:16:19.759 and so after working out the moves we 00:16:19.759 --> 00:16:22.720 took few rest days and finally it was 00:16:22.720 --> 00:16:25.120 time to deal with descending pressure 00:16:25.120 --> 00:16:28.720 everything looks different in the sun 00:16:28.720 --> 00:16:30.480 now you might be wondering why the hell 00:16:30.480 --> 00:16:32.880 we are climbing in direct sun 00:16:32.880 --> 00:16:35.839 well yes it's true that sun will make 00:16:35.839 --> 00:16:37.600 the friction worse 00:16:37.600 --> 00:16:40.639 however it was a relatively cold day and 00:16:40.639 --> 00:16:43.199 i just wanted to treat the first go as a 00:16:43.199 --> 00:16:45.680 warm-up without worrying about sending 00:16:45.680 --> 00:16:49.120 too much so whatever happens happens 00:16:49.120 --> 00:16:51.839 after very easy beginning you have a 00:16:51.839 --> 00:16:54.880 mini cracks which starts with this mono 00:16:54.880 --> 00:16:58.000 pocket or if you have tiny fingers like 00:16:58.000 --> 00:17:00.800 me you can squeeze in two fingers 00:17:00.800 --> 00:17:04.000 and then the next move is into tiny tiny 00:17:04.000 --> 00:17:05.919 crimp 00:17:05.919 --> 00:17:09.360 and you have to pull on it 00:17:11.839 --> 00:17:14.480 so definitely not the smartest idea to 00:17:14.480 --> 00:17:17.439 do such moves without a proper warm-up 00:17:17.439 --> 00:17:20.720 or on a warm-up go in my case 00:17:20.720 --> 00:17:23.839 however my strategy sometimes is to just 00:17:23.839 --> 00:17:26.319 go for it but be very 00:17:26.319 --> 00:17:28.880 observant of my body and if something 00:17:28.880 --> 00:17:30.240 feels wrong 00:17:30.240 --> 00:17:33.039 stop immediately i also knew that this 00:17:33.039 --> 00:17:36.160 route has a lot of rests so i can warm 00:17:36.160 --> 00:17:38.880 up on easier sections and then shake it 00:17:38.880 --> 00:17:40.960 out during the rests 00:17:40.960 --> 00:17:42.640 here you can see me 00:17:42.640 --> 00:17:45.360 shaking on every single opportunity and 00:17:45.360 --> 00:17:48.320 trying to recover as much as they can 00:17:48.320 --> 00:17:51.039 because i knew that for the crux i need 00:17:51.039 --> 00:17:54.640 100 of my energy so i try to stay as 00:17:54.640 --> 00:17:58.400 calm as possible and rest longer than i 00:17:58.400 --> 00:18:00.720 think i will need 00:18:00.720 --> 00:18:06.520 in the dark creeps no come on you got it 00:18:23.240 --> 00:18:29.509 [Music] 00:18:34.559 --> 00:18:36.520 nice 00:18:36.520 --> 00:18:39.819 [Music] 00:18:45.020 --> 00:18:48.220 [Music] 00:18:48.980 --> 00:18:52.150 [Applause] 00:18:53.679 --> 00:18:56.679 nice 00:19:06.320 --> 00:19:09.640 nice buddy 00:19:16.720 --> 00:19:19.120 well done i'm not yet 00:19:19.120 --> 00:19:21.840 so while it looks like it's done it's 00:19:21.840 --> 00:19:25.400 actually far from it my forearms are 00:19:25.400 --> 00:19:28.559 exploding i'm holding two crimps that 00:19:28.559 --> 00:19:31.360 would be quite good however i'm so 00:19:31.360 --> 00:19:34.960 pumped that they are far from being good 00:19:34.960 --> 00:19:37.360 plus i know that my mind tends to go 00:19:37.360 --> 00:19:39.520 into kind of tunnel vision when i get 00:19:39.520 --> 00:19:41.840 really tired and it's really hard to 00:19:41.840 --> 00:19:42.720 focus 00:19:42.720 --> 00:19:45.200 so at the same time i'm waiting for the 00:19:45.200 --> 00:19:48.000 clarity to come back i'm desperately 00:19:48.000 --> 00:19:50.480 trying to find a better hold or better 00:19:50.480 --> 00:19:53.360 body position that could allow me to 00:19:53.360 --> 00:19:56.559 shake just a little bit more to 00:19:56.559 --> 00:19:59.520 not rush me into the next moves yet 00:19:59.520 --> 00:20:02.080 because i really don't want to mess up 00:20:02.080 --> 00:20:04.240 here 00:20:04.240 --> 00:20:06.400 i don't know how to swap arms 00:20:06.400 --> 00:20:08.880 but since the holes are not that good to 00:20:08.880 --> 00:20:11.520 rest on i knew that i have to start 00:20:11.520 --> 00:20:14.240 thinking what's next and the next is the 00:20:14.240 --> 00:20:17.280 left hand up so i decided to swap my 00:20:17.280 --> 00:20:19.919 arms so my right arm stays on the better 00:20:19.919 --> 00:20:22.640 part of the hold quick glance over the 00:20:22.640 --> 00:20:27.120 footholds and hope for the best 00:20:29.840 --> 00:20:33.240 nice dude 00:20:40.720 --> 00:20:43.360 so a little camera teleportation magic 00:20:43.360 --> 00:20:46.000 while i'm enjoying the last rest 00:20:46.000 --> 00:20:48.720 and a final section which is not really 00:20:48.720 --> 00:20:52.159 hard but a little bit tricky and tricky 00:20:52.159 --> 00:20:54.480 is not that great when you are under 00:20:54.480 --> 00:20:56.320 sending pressure 00:20:56.320 --> 00:20:58.960 good trying 00:20:59.440 --> 00:21:00.799 come on 00:21:00.799 --> 00:21:03.840 come on dude 00:21:13.919 --> 00:21:16.919 nice 00:21:21.679 --> 00:21:24.320 so only few moves left but as a true 00:21:24.320 --> 00:21:26.240 weak climber i couldn't miss an 00:21:26.240 --> 00:21:28.480 opportunity for a good shake 00:21:28.480 --> 00:21:31.360 notice that i'm not rushing to clip here 00:21:31.360 --> 00:21:33.840 it's much better to shake it out first 00:21:33.840 --> 00:21:36.640 get into a better position and only then 00:21:36.640 --> 00:21:40.080 clip also notice my left leg i stepped 00:21:40.080 --> 00:21:42.880 out of overhang as much as i can this 00:21:42.880 --> 00:21:44.720 makes my position 00:21:44.720 --> 00:21:47.200 way less overhanging and much better to 00:21:47.200 --> 00:21:48.960 rest 00:21:48.960 --> 00:21:52.080 and since i'm very close to sending my 00:21:52.080 --> 00:21:54.880 sending pressure keeps going up and up 00:21:54.880 --> 00:21:56.080 and up 00:21:56.080 --> 00:21:58.799 and the trick is to 00:21:58.799 --> 00:22:04.120 at least try to stay as calm as you can 00:22:04.350 --> 00:22:12.809 [Music] 00:22:30.280 --> 00:22:33.329 [Music] 00:22:36.799 --> 00:22:40.600 how does that feel dude 00:22:41.290 --> 00:22:43.200 [Music] 00:22:43.200 --> 00:22:44.720 trying to get my 00:22:44.720 --> 00:22:47.120 breath back back 00:22:47.120 --> 00:22:49.360 um 00:22:50.320 --> 00:22:53.840 it's even the easiest 7c i've ever 00:22:53.840 --> 00:22:54.960 or 00:22:54.960 --> 00:22:56.960 i got already stronger so till this 00:22:56.960 --> 00:22:59.200 point it's been only two months of me 00:22:59.200 --> 00:23:01.440 training with lattice guys so it's a bit 00:23:01.440 --> 00:23:04.400 early to judge what kind of effect that 00:23:04.400 --> 00:23:06.960 had on my climbing performance however 00:23:06.960 --> 00:23:09.360 in next video i'm gonna show you how all 00:23:09.360 --> 00:23:12.000 of my training looked like 00:23:12.000 --> 00:23:12.960 and 00:23:12.960 --> 00:23:16.000 some numbers but for now it's charlie's 00:23:16.000 --> 00:23:19.799 time to send this 7c 00:23:20.570 --> 00:23:23.039 [Music] 00:23:23.039 --> 00:23:26.039 uh 00:23:29.650 --> 00:23:35.200 [Music] 00:23:36.720 --> 00:23:37.990 nice come on 00:23:37.990 --> 00:23:42.159 [Music] 00:23:42.159 --> 00:23:44.320 yeah come on 00:23:44.320 --> 00:23:45.910 nice 00:23:45.910 --> 00:23:52.159 [Music] 00:23:52.159 --> 00:23:55.120 come on you got this 00:23:57.919 --> 00:24:00.880 yeah come on 00:24:01.600 --> 00:24:03.600 come on buddy 00:24:03.600 --> 00:24:05.440 yeah come on 00:24:05.440 --> 00:24:07.840 come on 00:24:09.490 --> 00:24:10.960 [Music] 00:24:10.960 --> 00:24:14.080 yeah come on 00:24:14.640 --> 00:24:18.120 come on come on 00:24:22.080 --> 00:24:24.640 knew it dude 00:24:24.640 --> 00:24:27.840 you knew it i knew it you knew wrong 00:24:27.840 --> 00:24:30.840 thanks yeah i almost lose my 00:24:30.840 --> 00:24:33.120 feet yeah you need to work on the 00:24:33.120 --> 00:24:36.000 section after this big move so well 00:24:36.000 --> 00:24:38.000 classic mistake of not having the 00:24:38.000 --> 00:24:40.720 perfect beta right after the hardest 00:24:40.720 --> 00:24:43.600 move because that's charlie his send on 00:24:43.600 --> 00:24:44.880 the first go 00:24:44.880 --> 00:24:47.279 he tried to fix that and this is his 00:24:47.279 --> 00:24:48.890 second goal for the day 00:24:48.890 --> 00:24:50.159 [Music] 00:24:50.159 --> 00:24:50.750 come on 00:24:50.750 --> 00:24:52.240 [Music] 00:24:52.240 --> 00:24:54.720 come on 00:24:58.960 --> 00:25:00.480 come on 00:25:00.480 --> 00:25:02.720 yeah 00:25:02.720 --> 00:25:04.559 come on 00:25:04.559 --> 00:25:07.520 yeah yeah come on come on 00:25:08.960 --> 00:25:10.799 come on come on come on 00:25:10.799 --> 00:25:11.840 no 00:25:11.840 --> 00:25:14.240 man 00:25:18.320 --> 00:25:21.039 but no cigar 00:25:21.360 --> 00:25:24.159 but very very close 00:25:24.159 --> 00:25:25.360 i really want to do it today though 00:25:25.360 --> 00:25:27.360 that's the thing 00:25:27.360 --> 00:25:30.559 so stress and pressure it's probably 00:25:30.559 --> 00:25:33.039 inevitable to happen when you're trying 00:25:33.039 --> 00:25:36.159 to push your max grade while sometimes 00:25:36.159 --> 00:25:38.559 you might just get lucky and send most 00:25:38.559 --> 00:25:40.640 of the time it's actually better to 00:25:40.640 --> 00:25:42.880 allow yourself to fail just tell 00:25:42.880 --> 00:25:45.039 yourself i'm gonna climb this route as 00:25:45.039 --> 00:25:48.320 far as i can and if i fail that's okay 00:25:48.320 --> 00:25:50.480 no i think you did this way too easy you 00:25:50.480 --> 00:25:52.480 did this all this there's another aa 00:25:52.480 --> 00:25:55.600 here now if your mind resists the idea 00:25:55.600 --> 00:25:58.320 that failing is okay just keep pushing 00:25:58.320 --> 00:26:00.159 through it because the reality is 00:26:00.159 --> 00:26:02.480 whether you send or you don't 00:26:02.480 --> 00:26:04.240 nothing is gonna change in your life 00:26:04.240 --> 00:26:06.400 after every fail you're still alive 00:26:06.400 --> 00:26:08.960 you're still surrounded by great friends 00:26:08.960 --> 00:26:11.679 having great time 00:26:11.679 --> 00:26:13.840 in action so by pushing through these 00:26:13.840 --> 00:26:16.480 fails the pressure will start going 00:26:16.480 --> 00:26:18.240 lower and lower and lower until it 00:26:18.240 --> 00:26:20.240 becomes manageable and at some point 00:26:20.240 --> 00:26:22.799 chances are that you are going to send 00:26:22.799 --> 00:26:24.559 what is superglue apparently was made in 00:26:24.559 --> 00:26:25.679 the 00:26:25.679 --> 00:26:28.240 second world war to close wounds so we 00:26:28.240 --> 00:26:30.559 are closing the wounds now 00:26:30.559 --> 00:26:32.400 so we're closing wounds well the best 00:26:32.400 --> 00:26:34.400 way to find out if this works 00:26:34.400 --> 00:26:36.320 is uh well the best way i can find out 00:26:36.320 --> 00:26:38.320 is test it on somebody else and then 00:26:38.320 --> 00:26:40.080 you'll get loads of comments on saying 00:26:40.080 --> 00:26:42.480 how to do it correctly 00:26:42.480 --> 00:26:44.159 okay let's do it 00:26:44.159 --> 00:26:46.240 let's do it 00:26:46.240 --> 00:26:49.760 i suppose let's just do that there 00:26:50.320 --> 00:26:51.520 okay 00:26:51.520 --> 00:26:53.679 you think i should press it together or 00:26:53.679 --> 00:26:55.520 just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't 00:26:55.520 --> 00:26:57.919 know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going 00:26:57.919 --> 00:27:00.000 i'll see you guys later so now you feel 00:27:00.000 --> 00:27:01.919 like sending 00:27:01.919 --> 00:27:06.559 yes i mean i stick to the wall now 00:27:06.559 --> 00:27:07.760 you need to hold your finger up in the 00:27:07.760 --> 00:27:10.000 wind 00:27:11.520 --> 00:27:13.360 like this yeah yeah yeah 00:27:13.360 --> 00:27:15.360 the wind's coming i know the answer 00:27:15.360 --> 00:27:17.360 the wind's coming from that way though 00:27:17.360 --> 00:27:19.120 now you know the answer it's getting 00:27:19.120 --> 00:27:21.200 there it's getting there really 00:27:21.200 --> 00:27:23.120 okay we wait we wait but then you can 00:27:23.120 --> 00:27:24.720 sand it down and you can make the finger 00:27:24.720 --> 00:27:25.919 you want 00:27:25.919 --> 00:27:27.520 you can you can do it 00:27:27.520 --> 00:27:29.440 you can have the perfect perfect this 00:27:29.440 --> 00:27:31.679 sounds great can you also tell for 00:27:31.679 --> 00:27:36.799 people to not do this yeah don't do it 00:27:37.039 --> 00:27:38.720 i'm gonna give it one go hike or my 00:27:38.720 --> 00:27:42.520 finger already hurts 00:27:45.890 --> 00:27:49.119 [Music] 00:27:51.360 --> 00:27:54.320 yeah yeah pink 00:27:54.320 --> 00:27:56.000 nice 00:27:56.000 --> 00:27:58.340 right leg up 00:27:58.340 --> 00:28:09.940 [Music] 00:28:12.320 --> 00:28:14.910 this move is not hard at all 00:28:14.910 --> 00:28:17.200 [Music] 00:28:17.200 --> 00:28:20.480 why don't you get rid of the tape 00:28:22.320 --> 00:28:23.840 it's open again 00:28:23.840 --> 00:28:26.640 oh really yeah 00:28:27.120 --> 00:28:28.720 i would not climb 00:28:28.720 --> 00:28:32.399 low on me let it heal 00:28:34.880 --> 00:28:35.840 [ __ ] 00:28:35.840 --> 00:28:38.000 i'm delay slave today 00:28:38.000 --> 00:28:40.720 so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't 00:28:40.720 --> 00:28:42.960 work at all 00:28:42.960 --> 00:28:44.399 i have now 00:28:44.399 --> 00:28:45.840 yeah so 00:28:45.840 --> 00:28:48.799 real life is not always a movie although 00:28:48.799 --> 00:28:51.039 you're kind of watching a movie 00:28:51.039 --> 00:28:52.799 but at the same time you're watching a 00:28:52.799 --> 00:28:54.240 real life 00:28:54.240 --> 00:28:56.640 and real life doesn't always have a 00:28:56.640 --> 00:28:59.840 happy ending 00:29:07.679 --> 00:29:10.399 what happened 00:29:10.960 --> 00:29:13.840 i'm not sure dude 00:29:21.360 --> 00:29:24.640 this hole is so [ __ ] hard now 00:29:24.640 --> 00:29:26.880 yummy 00:29:26.880 --> 00:29:28.559 pressure 00:29:28.559 --> 00:29:30.799 under pressure 00:29:30.799 --> 00:29:34.000 under pressure yep as i already said 00:29:34.000 --> 00:29:36.080 sometimes the best way to deal with 00:29:36.080 --> 00:29:37.200 pressure 00:29:37.200 --> 00:29:41.200 is to just let it beat you then stand up 00:29:41.200 --> 00:29:42.880 and try again 00:29:42.880 --> 00:29:45.440 it will make your mind much stronger not 00:29:45.440 --> 00:29:49.440 only in climbing but in life as 00:29:52.840 --> 00:29:56.919 well on 00:30:00.040 --> 00:30:04.180 [Music] 00:30:04.180 --> 00:30:07.269 [Applause] 00:30:17.039 --> 00:30:19.279 come on you got this 00:30:19.279 --> 00:30:22.080 yeah come on 00:30:25.040 --> 00:30:28.190 [Music] 00:30:34.720 --> 00:30:38.559 just need a moment yeah 00:30:42.000 --> 00:30:44.000 i was like if he's gonna whip on this 00:30:44.000 --> 00:30:45.360 clip 00:30:45.360 --> 00:30:47.919 imagine that 00:30:47.919 --> 00:30:51.600 oh i'm shaking dude 00:30:51.600 --> 00:30:53.520 climb to a bit higher and then try to 00:30:53.520 --> 00:30:54.640 rest here 00:30:54.640 --> 00:30:55.440 yeah 00:30:55.440 --> 00:30:57.360 this right hand side pull is really good 00:30:57.360 --> 00:31:00.519 for resting 00:31:01.790 --> 00:31:05.200 [Music] 00:31:05.200 --> 00:31:05.840 okay 00:31:05.840 --> 00:31:07.200 [Music] 00:31:07.200 --> 00:31:10.679 okay enjoy 00:31:11.440 --> 00:31:21.120 [Music] 00:31:21.120 --> 00:31:24.360 thank you 00:31:30.110 --> 00:31:41.060 [Music] 00:31:42.240 --> 00:31:43.600 nice 00:31:43.600 --> 00:31:46.840 come on 00:31:48.240 --> 00:31:50.640 yeah 00:31:50.640 --> 00:31:53.200 nice 00:31:55.060 --> 00:31:58.080 [Music] 00:31:58.080 --> 00:32:02.159 you are gonna fall now a danker 00:32:02.799 --> 00:32:03.919 come on 00:32:03.919 --> 00:32:06.320 that would suck wouldn't it 00:32:06.320 --> 00:32:08.559 whoa 00:32:09.600 --> 00:32:12.240 dude i was there just shaking away like 00:32:12.240 --> 00:32:14.480 can like calm down calm down i couldn't 00:32:14.480 --> 00:32:16.080 i couldn't i was like if i stay here any 00:32:16.080 --> 00:32:19.519 longer i'm just making it worse like 00:32:19.519 --> 00:32:22.480 but yeah it went nicely good run you too 00:32:22.480 --> 00:32:24.640 dude well done good send as well good 00:32:24.640 --> 00:32:25.840 balloon 00:32:25.840 --> 00:32:27.840 really good playing in a 00:32:27.840 --> 00:32:30.559 how did the harness feel yes super nice 00:32:30.559 --> 00:32:33.279 like whoa you felt the difference yeah a 00:32:33.279 --> 00:32:34.000 lot 00:32:34.000 --> 00:32:35.840 why are you doing marketing to mommy 00:32:35.840 --> 00:32:37.840 yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm 00:32:37.840 --> 00:32:40.880 all right so he's not so i will since 00:32:40.880 --> 00:32:42.880 mahmoud has been a huge support for my 00:32:42.880 --> 00:32:44.799 channel i wanted to say special thank 00:32:44.799 --> 00:32:46.880 you for that and the story behind the 00:32:46.880 --> 00:32:49.200 harness is that we've been recording a 00:32:49.200 --> 00:32:51.600 ton of delaying experiments and mel's 00:32:51.600 --> 00:32:54.080 legs started hurting from flying all the 00:32:54.080 --> 00:32:58.159 time that's for hurting your legs 00:32:58.159 --> 00:33:00.240 so thank you mel for flying and mammoth 00:33:00.240 --> 00:33:02.720 for supporting and in the next episode 00:33:02.720 --> 00:33:04.840 we will jump on our first 00:33:04.840 --> 00:33:09.080 8a come on 00:33:17.200 --> 00:33:19.360 it's kind of beautiful here 00:33:19.360 --> 00:33:21.919 you want to see 00:33:23.360 --> 00:33:24.559 cool now 00:33:24.559 --> 00:33:26.480 so as always 00:33:26.480 --> 00:33:27.840 enjoy climbing 00:33:27.840 --> 00:33:29.200 projecting 00:33:29.200 --> 00:33:30.080 and 00:33:30.080 --> 00:33:32.080 if you want some karma points you can 00:33:32.080 --> 00:33:33.679 visit my website 00:33:33.679 --> 00:33:36.240 that helps me to pay the bills 00:33:36.240 --> 00:33:39.760 and see you in the next episode