the best way to find out if this works
is well the best way i can find out is
test it on somebody else and then you'll
get loads of comments
[Music]
come on
come on come on
no
wow you were holding it
alright welcome to part two of heart is
easy where in first episode i took
lattice training performance assessment
and my performance wasn't let's say
much of a performance
so how weak are my fingers good question
so in half crimp we are coming in around
110 and typically what we're seeing for
for the 7c level in sport climbing is
around 150 body weight so i'm like
really far from
7c climber it's quite it's quite far out
so if you want to see the full
assessment it's in this video and if you
want to see how somebody weak like me
can climb hard roots easy it's in this
video but jokes aside of course what's
hard or easy it's very subjective
however i thought i'm gonna share with
you my projecting tactics and maybe you
will find something useful
now in case you missed the previous
episode this is charlie to the right you
see that yeah he has one pad more rich
on each side and he's smaller he has
just more room so this is like monkey in
action i swear bolder and does it though
you'll get longer arms
okay
it's a nice joke
that is a really nice hold
come on
and it's looking like the only nice hole
weak climber projecting rule number one
don't climb first save your energy let
your friend to put the quick draws for
you and find those nice holes so you can
stay happily weak and if you don't know
how to convince your friend to go first
here is an example will you put your
dress yourself or you need our help
i don't need your help
i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on
myself lately i went always climbing
with guys who weren't that gentlemanish
wait so you're giving draws to somebody
else
no no hannah said before that she keeps
putting the drawers blah
blah i i just said you don't have to
so this actually was the crux of the
route
where you have to be either very strong
or very creative
okay
[Music]
no
we're still on site
wow
so for the right hand you have this
slippery crimpy hold which is really not
good
and then the next hold is quite far off
and this is hana trying the same move
the next hold is this crimpy side pull
right here
okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta
yeah i'm going to come into this one
beta beta but
i don't know what's correct
come on
that is a killer so after trying to
brute force the crux in many different
ways
no way dude no way charlie finally came
up with idea how to do it
which was to kick the left leg to the
wall and do a drop knee yeah come on
so not very obvious but such a fun move
right leg up
and left leg kicks into the wall
that's what you need to do
drop me
[Laughter]
if you actually drop me more you will
not need to use passat yet
save it for later
you always need two percent
so that's actually not always the case
oftentimes it's more about understanding
the move yeah now the feet up up up and
kick
yeah and kick
and drop knee drop knees stay close to
the wall
that's it that's it
i cannot drop anymore
yeah
so we analyzed these moves in the
evening and this is what happened the
next day
what the [ __ ] this was easy
[Music]
now change the drop knee to other side
and right arm up
yeah
okay
so this left leg ninja move unlocked the
first half of the crux
however
it's not over yet
right leg up
all right since weak climbers we have
very limited amount of energy rule
number two is to save it
okay take me here
see how weak people solve problems
so instead of trying the moves from get
go sometimes it's actually better to
take and get yourself familiar with the
holes search for hidden holes and
opportunities and since i saw charlie
already
i knew that i have to try this kick and
a drop knee
come on man okay take
and right away when i understand that
the move works i take to save the energy
and now i can try the moves that i
skipped now lower me a bit i want to see
if i can link
a bit more up so this is that
this and that this is that this and that
i mean okay
[Music]
whoa
you're good yeah i'm good i'm good
that's why we wear helmets
as a player
it broke
i think football
and the other one is also moving yeah
you need to step on another part
next i wanted to start from this rest
hold and see if i can do the kick and
the drop knee and the trick here was to
find which footholds will work for me
which i got lucky in the first go
critic
good
next so as you can see on a first go i'm
not even trying to climb big sections
continuously the reality about our
muscles is that the more
tired we get the more pumped we get the
longer it takes for them to recover so
they can deliver anywhere close to max
power and max power is what you need to
efficiently work out the hardest parts
of the route
now the fun part
from here
there also before i start a new section
it's very important to stand in exactly
the same position where i finished the
previous section if i don't do that it's
going to be very difficult to flow
between these different sections and
this is actually quite common mistake
okay
do this
if you can put a drawer in
no it's too far
don't pull me don't pull me okay
and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is
totally normal and every pro does that
[Laughter]
now a huge warning about grabbing quick
draws is that you should avoid grabbing
your quick draw below you because in
this case if you would take a fall
this can happen where you have a lot of
fall until you are in position where you
could potentially hold yourself but the
force will be so big that you might not
be able to hold on the sling your hand
will slip and the quick draw can
penetrate your palm i've seen pictures
it doesn't look fun okay climbing
all right next i wanted to link both
sections together to see how well the
transition between them flows
it was also a good time to focus a
little bit more on footwork this helps a
lot to remember your foot placements
and
potentially do less mistakes in the
future
thank you
nice okay so this is doable so now i
kind of don't have a plan apart from
stepping up high
and going into unknown
this is gonna be fun
i'm windy you climbing okay
[Music]
what the [ __ ]
so the final section of the crux was a
little mystery for me it was already
getting dark mama mia i don't know
what's next so yeah it's not only you
who cannot see much in this clip i'm
flying
and the only idea i was seeing is a huge
dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i
was not sure if that's the right oh my
god wait to do it
okay i'm falling
and after multiple attempts i realized
that i'm not gonna get to the top today
and that's okay
my only goal was to put the next quick
draw
nice
and come back the next day all right
good
what's the plan
i'm going to take it slow today
i'll say take a lot more mel
learning strategy from weak people
i think it's the best way climate
clipping
nice
easy
come on
yeah
yeah yeah
come on
yeah come on
no go for the tick mark come on
yeah
easy
oh
come on
some nice flying
oh well then that was easy this time you
have to be quick though after that move
all right fun time
this is a final part of the crux
which starts with two really good crimps
and a very big move
nice attempt
my foot just flipped
wow you were holding it
[Music]
boom boom
boom
[Music]
nice that's it
okay clipping
okay take
being more strategic today no yeah
definitely
and talking about the strategy here i
hang on the rope again not climbing but
inspecting the route searching for the
footholds and handholds
climbing i actually wanted to start just
a few moves before the big move to see
how my setup flows into the dino
[Music]
nice ben
[ __ ] so since this was the first time of
me in this position in daylight
obviously i didn't had the perfect beta
yet but it's okay the step one was just
to do whatever it takes to clip the next
quick draw that's it that's it
and then optimize
okay take me here i want to
find phone calls slopper
yeah this slopper is nice
so when obvious doesn't work you have to
try something else
while for me and charlie the dino was
working pretty well
hannah decided to climb around it i just
wanted to try
what the [ __ ]
maybe this is gonna work you could you
get left hand where your right is
somehow
nice
nice nice nice
above on the right
so we spent two half days projecting
this route and the goal for these first
two days was just to break and tire
route down into multiple sections
ideally from rest position to rest
position or in this case since this
route had very long and complicated crux
i decided to break down the crux into
multiple sections as well so while
entire route might look really long
intimidating and hard and complicated if
you start using divide and conquer
principle that will for sure become
easier so i go first because i don't
like to be stressed if you stand
and then i have to climb i feel more
stressy so i will sand and then you can
kill that
i don't think that's fair but i'll take
it
[Music]
i think it's okay i think it's okay
and so after working out the moves we
took few rest days and finally it was
time to deal with descending pressure
everything looks different in the sun
now you might be wondering why the hell
we are climbing in direct sun
well yes it's true that sun will make
the friction worse
however it was a relatively cold day and
i just wanted to treat the first go as a
warm-up without worrying about sending
too much so whatever happens happens
after very easy beginning you have a
mini cracks which starts with this mono
pocket or if you have tiny fingers like
me you can squeeze in two fingers
and then the next move is into tiny tiny
crimp
and you have to pull on it
so definitely not the smartest idea to
do such moves without a proper warm-up
or on a warm-up go in my case
however my strategy sometimes is to just
go for it but be very
observant of my body and if something
feels wrong
stop immediately i also knew that this
route has a lot of rests so i can warm
up on easier sections and then shake it
out during the rests
here you can see me
shaking on every single opportunity and
trying to recover as much as they can
because i knew that for the crux i need
100 of my energy so i try to stay as
calm as possible and rest longer than i
think i will need
in the dark creeps no come on you got it
[Music]
nice
[Music]
[Applause]
nice
nice buddy
well done i'm not yet
so while it looks like it's done it's
actually far from it my forearms are
exploding i'm holding two crimps that
would be quite good however i'm so
pumped that they are far from being good
plus i know that my mind tends to go
into kind of tunnel vision when i get
really tired and it's really hard to
focus
so at the same time i'm waiting for the
clarity to come back i'm desperately
trying to find a better hold or better
body position that could allow me to
shake just a little bit more to
not rush me into the next moves yet
because i really don't want to mess up
here
i don't know how to swap arms
but since the holes are not that good to
rest on i knew that i have to start
thinking what's next and the next is the
left hand up so i decided to swap my
arms so my right arm stays on the better
part of the hold quick glance over the
footholds and hope for the best
nice dude
so a little camera teleportation magic
while i'm enjoying the last rest
and a final section which is not really
hard but a little bit tricky and tricky
is not that great when you are under
sending pressure
good trying
come on
come on dude
nice
so only few moves left but as a true
weak climber i couldn't miss an
opportunity for a good shake
notice that i'm not rushing to clip here
it's much better to shake it out first
get into a better position and only then
clip also notice my left leg i stepped
out of overhang as much as i can this
makes my position
way less overhanging and much better to
rest
and since i'm very close to sending my
sending pressure keeps going up and up
and up
and the trick is to
at least try to stay as calm as you can
[Music]
how does that feel dude
[Music]
trying to get my
breath back back
um
it's even the easiest 7c i've ever
or
i got already stronger so till this
point it's been only two months of me
training with lattice guys so it's a bit
early to judge what kind of effect that
had on my climbing performance however
in next video i'm gonna show you how all
of my training looked like
and
some numbers but for now it's charlie's
time to send this 7c
[Music]
uh
[Music]
nice come on
[Music]
yeah come on
nice
[Music]
come on you got this
yeah come on
come on buddy
yeah come on
come on
[Music]
yeah come on
come on come on
knew it dude
you knew it i knew it you knew wrong
thanks yeah i almost lose my
feet yeah you need to work on the
section after this big move so well
classic mistake of not having the
perfect beta right after the hardest
move because that's charlie his send on
the first go
he tried to fix that and this is his
second goal for the day
[Music]
come on
[Music]
come on
yeah
come on
yeah yeah come on come on
come on come on come on
no
man
but no cigar
but very very close
i really want to do it today though
that's the thing
so stress and pressure it's probably
inevitable to happen when you're trying
to push your max grade while sometimes
you might just get lucky and send most
of the time it's actually better to
allow yourself to fail just tell
yourself i'm gonna climb this route as
far as i can and if i fail that's okay
no i think you did this way too easy you
did this all this there's another aa
here now if your mind resists the idea
that failing is okay just keep pushing
through it because the reality is
whether you send or you don't
nothing is gonna change in your life
after every fail you're still alive
you're still surrounded by great friends
having great time
in action so by pushing through these
fails the pressure will start going
lower and lower and lower until it
becomes manageable and at some point
chances are that you are going to send
what is superglue apparently was made in
the
second world war to close wounds so we
are closing the wounds now
so we're closing wounds well the best
way to find out if this works
is uh well the best way i can find out
is test it on somebody else and then
you'll get loads of comments on saying
how to do it correctly
okay let's do it
let's do it
i suppose let's just do that there
okay
you think i should press it together or
just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't
know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going
i'll see you guys later so now you feel
like sending
yes i mean i stick to the wall now
you need to hold your finger up in the
wind
like this yeah yeah yeah
the wind's coming i know the answer
the wind's coming from that way though
now you know the answer it's getting
there it's getting there really
okay we wait we wait but then you can
sand it down and you can make the finger
you want
you can you can do it
you can have the perfect perfect this
sounds great can you also tell for
people to not do this yeah don't do it
i'm gonna give it one go hike or my
finger already hurts
[Music]
yeah yeah pink
nice
right leg up
[Music]
this move is not hard at all
[Music]
why don't you get rid of the tape
it's open again
oh really yeah
i would not climb
low on me let it heal
[ __ ]
i'm delay slave today
so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't
work at all
i have now
yeah so
real life is not always a movie although
you're kind of watching a movie
but at the same time you're watching a
real life
and real life doesn't always have a
happy ending
what happened
i'm not sure dude
this hole is so [ __ ] hard now
yummy
pressure
under pressure
under pressure yep as i already said
sometimes the best way to deal with
pressure
is to just let it beat you then stand up
and try again
it will make your mind much stronger not
only in climbing but in life as
well on
[Music]
[Applause]
come on you got this
yeah come on
[Music]
just need a moment yeah
i was like if he's gonna whip on this
clip
imagine that
oh i'm shaking dude
climb to a bit higher and then try to
rest here
yeah
this right hand side pull is really good
for resting
[Music]
okay
[Music]
okay enjoy
[Music]
thank you
[Music]
nice
come on
yeah
nice
[Music]
you are gonna fall now a danker
come on
that would suck wouldn't it
whoa
dude i was there just shaking away like
can like calm down calm down i couldn't
i couldn't i was like if i stay here any
longer i'm just making it worse like
but yeah it went nicely good run you too
dude well done good send as well good
balloon
really good playing in a
how did the harness feel yes super nice
like whoa you felt the difference yeah a
lot
why are you doing marketing to mommy
yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm
all right so he's not so i will since
mahmoud has been a huge support for my
channel i wanted to say special thank
you for that and the story behind the
harness is that we've been recording a
ton of delaying experiments and mel's
legs started hurting from flying all the
time that's for hurting your legs
so thank you mel for flying and mammoth
for supporting and in the next episode
we will jump on our first
8a come on
it's kind of beautiful here
you want to see
cool now
so as always
enjoy climbing
projecting
and
if you want some karma points you can
visit my website
that helps me to pay the bills
and see you in the next episode