[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.00,0:00:02.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the best way to find out if this works Dialogue: 0,0:00:02.32,0:00:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is well the best way i can find out is Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.40,0:00:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,test it on somebody else and then you'll Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.48,0:00:07.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get loads of comments Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.76,0:00:10.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.92,0:00:17.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.68,0:00:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on come on Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.12,0:00:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.44,0:00:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow you were holding it Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.16,0:00:28.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,alright welcome to part two of heart is Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.96,0:00:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easy where in first episode i took Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.52,0:00:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lattice training performance assessment Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.80,0:00:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and my performance wasn't let's say Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.48,0:00:40.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much of a performance Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.80,0:00:44.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so how weak are my fingers good question Dialogue: 0,0:00:44.40,0:00:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so in half crimp we are coming in around Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.40,0:00:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,110 and typically what we're seeing for Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.12,0:00:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for the 7c level in sport climbing is Dialogue: 0,0:00:51.84,0:00:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around 150 body weight so i'm like Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.48,0:00:56.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really far from Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.48,0:00:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,7c climber it's quite it's quite far out Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.28,0:01:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so if you want to see the full Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.88,0:01:03.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,assessment it's in this video and if you Dialogue: 0,0:01:03.28,0:01:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,want to see how somebody weak like me Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.00,0:01:08.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can climb hard roots easy it's in this Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.80,0:01:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,video but jokes aside of course what's Dialogue: 0,0:01:11.12,0:01:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard or easy it's very subjective Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.04,0:01:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however i thought i'm gonna share with Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.96,0:01:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you my projecting tactics and maybe you Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.44,0:01:20.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will find something useful Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.72,0:01:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in case you missed the previous Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.48,0:01:25.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode this is charlie to the right you Dialogue: 0,0:01:25.60,0:01:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see that yeah he has one pad more rich Dialogue: 0,0:01:29.28,0:01:31.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on each side and he's smaller he has Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.36,0:01:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just more room so this is like monkey in Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.84,0:01:35.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,action i swear bolder and does it though Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.52,0:01:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you'll get longer arms Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.84,0:01:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.72,0:01:43.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a nice joke Dialogue: 0,0:01:43.52,0:01:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that is a really nice hold Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.52,0:01:52.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:01:53.04,0:01:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's looking like the only nice hole Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.36,0:01:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,weak climber projecting rule number one Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.44,0:02:02.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't climb first save your energy let Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.24,0:02:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your friend to put the quick draws for Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.24,0:02:07.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you and find those nice holes so you can Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.36,0:02:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stay happily weak and if you don't know Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.52,0:02:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how to convince your friend to go first Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.00,0:02:13.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here is an example will you put your Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.68,0:02:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dress yourself or you need our help Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.16,0:02:18.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i don't need your help Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.00,0:02:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm i'm used to put my drawers up on Dialogue: 0,0:02:20.64,0:02:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,myself lately i went always climbing Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.92,0:02:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with guys who weren't that gentlemanish Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.92,0:02:29.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wait so you're giving draws to somebody Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.76,0:02:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,else Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.88,0:02:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no no hannah said before that she keeps Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.88,0:02:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,putting the drawers blah Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.84,0:02:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blah i i just said you don't have to Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.96,0:02:41.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this actually was the crux of the Dialogue: 0,0:02:41.28,0:02:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,route Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.16,0:02:44.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you have to be either very strong Dialogue: 0,0:02:44.80,0:02:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or very creative Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.68,0:02:50.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.93,0:02:59.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.36,0:03:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.44,0:03:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we're still on site Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.56,0:03:09.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow Dialogue: 0,0:03:09.68,0:03:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so for the right hand you have this Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.92,0:03:15.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slippery crimpy hold which is really not Dialogue: 0,0:03:15.52,0:03:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.32,0:03:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the next hold is quite far off Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.32,0:03:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this is hana trying the same move Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.80,0:03:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the next hold is this crimpy side pull Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.84,0:03:31.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right here Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.88,0:03:35.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay i'm going to change beta a bit beta Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.52,0:03:38.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah i'm going to come into this one Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.32,0:03:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beta beta but Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.88,0:03:43.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i don't know what's correct Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.12,0:03:46.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.68,0:04:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that is a killer so after trying to Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.88,0:04:05.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brute force the crux in many different Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.60,0:04:07.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ways Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.76,0:04:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no way dude no way charlie finally came Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.36,0:04:15.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up with idea how to do it Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.40,0:04:19.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which was to kick the left leg to the Dialogue: 0,0:04:19.28,0:04:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wall and do a drop knee yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.80,0:04:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so not very obvious but such a fun move Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.40,0:04:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right leg up Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.16,0:04:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and left leg kicks into the wall Dialogue: 0,0:04:33.60,0:04:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's what you need to do Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.52,0:04:40.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,drop me Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.71,0:04:44.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Laughter] Dialogue: 0,0:04:44.72,0:04:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you actually drop me more you will Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.64,0:04:50.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not need to use passat yet Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.16,0:04:51.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,save it for later Dialogue: 0,0:04:51.68,0:04:54.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you always need two percent Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.56,0:04:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that's actually not always the case Dialogue: 0,0:04:57.36,0:04:59.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oftentimes it's more about understanding Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.92,0:05:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the move yeah now the feet up up up and Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.04,0:05:04.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kick Dialogue: 0,0:05:04.96,0:05:06.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah and kick Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.72,0:05:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and drop knee drop knees stay close to Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.40,0:05:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.36,0:05:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's it that's it Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.80,0:05:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i cannot drop anymore Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.64,0:05:16.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.04,0:05:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we analyzed these moves in the Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.36,0:05:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,evening and this is what happened the Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.60,0:05:26.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,next day Dialogue: 0,0:05:27.20,0:05:29.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what the [ __ ] this was easy Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.35,0:05:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.16,0:05:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now change the drop knee to other side Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.24,0:05:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and right arm up Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.12,0:05:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.04,0:05:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:05:40.56,0:05:41.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.52,0:05:44.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this left leg ninja move unlocked the Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.72,0:05:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first half of the crux Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.56,0:05:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however Dialogue: 0,0:05:47.76,0:05:52.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not over yet Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.12,0:06:02.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right leg up Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.28,0:06:09.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right since weak climbers we have Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.60,0:06:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very limited amount of energy rule Dialogue: 0,0:06:11.68,0:06:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,number two is to save it Dialogue: 0,0:06:16.56,0:06:20.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay take me here Dialogue: 0,0:06:21.20,0:06:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see how weak people solve problems Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.28,0:06:29.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so instead of trying the moves from get Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.92,0:06:32.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,go sometimes it's actually better to Dialogue: 0,0:06:32.64,0:06:35.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take and get yourself familiar with the Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.44,0:06:38.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,holes search for hidden holes and Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.16,0:06:41.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,opportunities and since i saw charlie Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.04,0:06:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.64,0:06:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i knew that i have to try this kick and Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.28,0:06:48.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a drop knee Dialogue: 0,0:06:48.40,0:06:50.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on man okay take Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.72,0:06:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and right away when i understand that Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.64,0:06:55.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the move works i take to save the energy Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.60,0:06:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now i can try the moves that i Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.52,0:06:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,skipped now lower me a bit i want to see Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.52,0:07:01.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if i can link Dialogue: 0,0:07:01.60,0:07:05.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a bit more up so this is that Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.36,0:07:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this and that this is that this and that Dialogue: 0,0:07:08.96,0:07:12.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i mean okay Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.05,0:07:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.56,0:07:18.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whoa Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.32,0:07:20.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're good yeah i'm good i'm good Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.48,0:07:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's why we wear helmets Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.56,0:07:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as a player Dialogue: 0,0:07:25.20,0:07:26.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it broke Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.40,0:07:28.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i think football Dialogue: 0,0:07:28.24,0:07:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the other one is also moving yeah Dialogue: 0,0:07:30.56,0:07:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you need to step on another part Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.72,0:07:38.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,next i wanted to start from this rest Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.88,0:07:41.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hold and see if i can do the kick and Dialogue: 0,0:07:41.52,0:07:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the drop knee and the trick here was to Dialogue: 0,0:07:44.16,0:07:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,find which footholds will work for me Dialogue: 0,0:07:47.20,0:07:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which i got lucky in the first go Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.68,0:07:51.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,critic Dialogue: 0,0:07:51.68,0:07:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.12,0:07:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,next so as you can see on a first go i'm Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.00,0:07:58.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not even trying to climb big sections Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.24,0:08:00.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,continuously the reality about our Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.72,0:08:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,muscles is that the more Dialogue: 0,0:08:02.80,0:08:05.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tired we get the more pumped we get the Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.68,0:08:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,longer it takes for them to recover so Dialogue: 0,0:08:07.92,0:08:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they can deliver anywhere close to max Dialogue: 0,0:08:10.40,0:08:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,power and max power is what you need to Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.04,0:08:15.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,efficiently work out the hardest parts Dialogue: 0,0:08:15.60,0:08:16.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the route Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.88,0:08:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now the fun part Dialogue: 0,0:08:18.80,0:08:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from here Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.64,0:08:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there also before i start a new section Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.60,0:08:26.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's very important to stand in exactly Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.16,0:08:28.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the same position where i finished the Dialogue: 0,0:08:28.16,0:08:30.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,previous section if i don't do that it's Dialogue: 0,0:08:30.96,0:08:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to be very difficult to flow Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.88,0:08:34.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,between these different sections and Dialogue: 0,0:08:34.64,0:08:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is actually quite common mistake Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.88,0:08:38.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.32,0:08:41.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do this Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.28,0:08:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you can put a drawer in Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.28,0:08:48.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no it's too far Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.56,0:08:51.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't pull me don't pull me okay Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.68,0:08:57.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and yeah grabbing on a quick draw is Dialogue: 0,0:08:57.68,0:09:01.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,totally normal and every pro does that Dialogue: 0,0:09:01.81,0:09:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Laughter] Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.40,0:09:06.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now a huge warning about grabbing quick Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.80,0:09:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,draws is that you should avoid grabbing Dialogue: 0,0:09:09.28,0:09:11.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your quick draw below you because in Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.60,0:09:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this case if you would take a fall Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.40,0:09:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this can happen where you have a lot of Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.96,0:09:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall until you are in position where you Dialogue: 0,0:09:19.44,0:09:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,could potentially hold yourself but the Dialogue: 0,0:09:22.08,0:09:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,force will be so big that you might not Dialogue: 0,0:09:24.64,0:09:27.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be able to hold on the sling your hand Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.28,0:09:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will slip and the quick draw can Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.60,0:09:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,penetrate your palm i've seen pictures Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.48,0:09:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it doesn't look fun okay climbing Dialogue: 0,0:09:35.12,0:09:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right next i wanted to link both Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.36,0:09:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sections together to see how well the Dialogue: 0,0:09:40.08,0:09:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,transition between them flows Dialogue: 0,0:09:44.56,0:09:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was also a good time to focus a Dialogue: 0,0:09:47.20,0:09:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit more on footwork this helps a Dialogue: 0,0:09:50.00,0:09:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot to remember your foot placements Dialogue: 0,0:09:52.80,0:09:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.68,0:09:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,potentially do less mistakes in the Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.00,0:09:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,future Dialogue: 0,0:09:59.12,0:10:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thank you Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.96,0:10:07.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice okay so this is doable so now i Dialogue: 0,0:10:07.44,0:10:09.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kind of don't have a plan apart from Dialogue: 0,0:10:09.60,0:10:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping up high Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.36,0:10:13.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and going into unknown Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.60,0:10:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is gonna be fun Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.64,0:10:18.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm windy you climbing okay Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.58,0:10:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.84,0:10:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what the [ __ ] Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.16,0:10:30.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so the final section of the crux was a Dialogue: 0,0:10:30.40,0:10:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little mystery for me it was already Dialogue: 0,0:10:32.40,0:10:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,getting dark mama mia i don't know Dialogue: 0,0:10:34.24,0:10:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what's next so yeah it's not only you Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.88,0:10:39.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who cannot see much in this clip i'm Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.28,0:10:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,flying Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.56,0:10:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the only idea i was seeing is a huge Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.76,0:10:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dynamic move into a sloppy hold and i Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.12,0:10:50.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was not sure if that's the right oh my Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.08,0:10:52.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,god wait to do it Dialogue: 0,0:10:52.72,0:10:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay i'm falling Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.40,0:10:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and after multiple attempts i realized Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.96,0:10:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that i'm not gonna get to the top today Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.84,0:11:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's okay Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.44,0:11:03.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my only goal was to put the next quick Dialogue: 0,0:11:03.84,0:11:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,draw Dialogue: 0,0:11:06.00,0:11:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.28,0:11:09.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and come back the next day all right Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.68,0:11:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.08,0:11:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what's the plan Dialogue: 0,0:11:13.76,0:11:16.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm going to take it slow today Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.40,0:11:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'll say take a lot more mel Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.72,0:11:22.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,learning strategy from weak people Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.64,0:11:27.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i think it's the best way climate Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.72,0:11:41.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clipping Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.88,0:11:46.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:11:46.32,0:11:48.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easy Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.48,0:11:52.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:11:52.00,0:11:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.44,0:11:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah yeah Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.36,0:11:57.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.16,0:12:01.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.52,0:12:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no go for the tick mark come on Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.00,0:12:08.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:12:08.72,0:12:11.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easy Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.60,0:12:18.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh Dialogue: 0,0:12:18.48,0:12:21.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:12:24.64,0:12:27.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some nice flying Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.04,0:12:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh well then that was easy this time you Dialogue: 0,0:12:29.60,0:12:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have to be quick though after that move Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.52,0:12:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right fun time Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.28,0:12:35.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is a final part of the crux Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.92,0:12:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which starts with two really good crimps Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.64,0:12:41.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and a very big move Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.40,0:12:44.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice attempt Dialogue: 0,0:12:44.40,0:12:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my foot just flipped Dialogue: 0,0:12:48.16,0:12:50.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow you were holding it Dialogue: 0,0:12:50.35,0:12:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.56,0:12:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,boom boom Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.08,0:13:01.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,boom Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.52,0:13:11.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:13:16.24,0:13:18.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice that's it Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.56,0:13:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay clipping Dialogue: 0,0:13:24.24,0:13:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay take Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.20,0:13:29.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,being more strategic today no yeah Dialogue: 0,0:13:29.36,0:13:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,definitely Dialogue: 0,0:13:30.64,0:13:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and talking about the strategy here i Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.04,0:13:35.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hang on the rope again not climbing but Dialogue: 0,0:13:35.68,0:13:37.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,inspecting the route searching for the Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.68,0:13:41.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,footholds and handholds Dialogue: 0,0:13:41.20,0:13:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing i actually wanted to start just Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.68,0:13:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a few moves before the big move to see Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.80,0:13:52.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how my setup flows into the dino Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.74,0:13:56.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:13:56.24,0:13:58.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice ben Dialogue: 0,0:14:00.24,0:14:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[ __ ] so since this was the first time of Dialogue: 0,0:14:02.96,0:14:05.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me in this position in daylight Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.20,0:14:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,obviously i didn't had the perfect beta Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.52,0:14:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yet but it's okay the step one was just Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.24,0:14:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to do whatever it takes to clip the next Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.32,0:14:15.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quick draw that's it that's it Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.20,0:14:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then optimize Dialogue: 0,0:14:16.96,0:14:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay take me here i want to Dialogue: 0,0:14:19.44,0:14:22.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,find phone calls slopper Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.00,0:14:25.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah this slopper is nice Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.56,0:14:39.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so when obvious doesn't work you have to Dialogue: 0,0:14:39.28,0:14:40.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try something else Dialogue: 0,0:14:40.80,0:14:42.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while for me and charlie the dino was Dialogue: 0,0:14:42.96,0:14:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,working pretty well Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.64,0:14:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hannah decided to climb around it i just Dialogue: 0,0:14:47.60,0:14:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wanted to try Dialogue: 0,0:14:49.44,0:14:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what the [ __ ] Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.80,0:14:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe this is gonna work you could you Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.88,0:14:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get left hand where your right is Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.72,0:14:59.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,somehow Dialogue: 0,0:15:07.92,0:15:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:15:09.28,0:15:13.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice nice nice Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.56,0:15:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,above on the right Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.68,0:15:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we spent two half days projecting Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.08,0:15:30.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this route and the goal for these first Dialogue: 0,0:15:30.24,0:15:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,two days was just to break and tire Dialogue: 0,0:15:32.56,0:15:34.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,route down into multiple sections Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.72,0:15:37.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ideally from rest position to rest Dialogue: 0,0:15:37.28,0:15:39.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,position or in this case since this Dialogue: 0,0:15:39.68,0:15:42.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,route had very long and complicated crux Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.48,0:15:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i decided to break down the crux into Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.64,0:15:46.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiple sections as well so while Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.88,0:15:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,entire route might look really long Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.68,0:15:52.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,intimidating and hard and complicated if Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.48,0:15:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you start using divide and conquer Dialogue: 0,0:15:54.32,0:15:56.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,principle that will for sure become Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.80,0:15:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easier so i go first because i don't Dialogue: 0,0:15:59.52,0:16:02.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like to be stressed if you stand Dialogue: 0,0:16:02.32,0:16:04.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then i have to climb i feel more Dialogue: 0,0:16:04.72,0:16:07.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stressy so i will sand and then you can Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.20,0:16:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kill that Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.00,0:16:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i don't think that's fair but i'll take Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.16,0:16:12.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.47,0:16:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:16:14.40,0:16:17.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i think it's okay i think it's okay Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.28,0:16:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and so after working out the moves we Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.76,0:16:22.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,took few rest days and finally it was Dialogue: 0,0:16:22.72,0:16:25.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time to deal with descending pressure Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.12,0:16:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything looks different in the sun Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.72,0:16:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now you might be wondering why the hell Dialogue: 0,0:16:30.48,0:16:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we are climbing in direct sun Dialogue: 0,0:16:32.88,0:16:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well yes it's true that sun will make Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.84,0:16:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the friction worse Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.60,0:16:40.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however it was a relatively cold day and Dialogue: 0,0:16:40.64,0:16:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i just wanted to treat the first go as a Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.20,0:16:45.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,warm-up without worrying about sending Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.68,0:16:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,too much so whatever happens happens Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.12,0:16:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after very easy beginning you have a Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.84,0:16:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mini cracks which starts with this mono Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.88,0:16:58.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pocket or if you have tiny fingers like Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.00,0:17:00.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me you can squeeze in two fingers Dialogue: 0,0:17:00.80,0:17:04.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the next move is into tiny tiny Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.00,0:17:05.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,crimp Dialogue: 0,0:17:05.92,0:17:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you have to pull on it Dialogue: 0,0:17:11.84,0:17:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so definitely not the smartest idea to Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.48,0:17:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do such moves without a proper warm-up Dialogue: 0,0:17:17.44,0:17:20.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or on a warm-up go in my case Dialogue: 0,0:17:20.72,0:17:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however my strategy sometimes is to just Dialogue: 0,0:17:23.84,0:17:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,go for it but be very Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.32,0:17:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,observant of my body and if something Dialogue: 0,0:17:28.88,0:17:30.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feels wrong Dialogue: 0,0:17:30.24,0:17:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stop immediately i also knew that this Dialogue: 0,0:17:33.04,0:17:36.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,route has a lot of rests so i can warm Dialogue: 0,0:17:36.16,0:17:38.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up on easier sections and then shake it Dialogue: 0,0:17:38.88,0:17:40.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out during the rests Dialogue: 0,0:17:40.96,0:17:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here you can see me Dialogue: 0,0:17:42.64,0:17:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shaking on every single opportunity and Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.36,0:17:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to recover as much as they can Dialogue: 0,0:17:48.32,0:17:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because i knew that for the crux i need Dialogue: 0,0:17:51.04,0:17:54.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,100 of my energy so i try to stay as Dialogue: 0,0:17:54.64,0:17:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,calm as possible and rest longer than i Dialogue: 0,0:17:58.40,0:18:00.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,think i will need Dialogue: 0,0:18:00.72,0:18:06.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the dark creeps no come on you got it Dialogue: 0,0:18:23.24,0:18:29.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.56,0:18:36.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.52,0:18:39.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:18:45.02,0:18:48.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.98,0:18:52.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Applause] Dialogue: 0,0:18:53.68,0:18:56.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.32,0:19:09.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice buddy Dialogue: 0,0:19:16.72,0:19:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well done i'm not yet Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.12,0:19:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so while it looks like it's done it's Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.84,0:19:25.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually far from it my forearms are Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.40,0:19:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exploding i'm holding two crimps that Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.56,0:19:31.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would be quite good however i'm so Dialogue: 0,0:19:31.36,0:19:34.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pumped that they are far from being good Dialogue: 0,0:19:34.96,0:19:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,plus i know that my mind tends to go Dialogue: 0,0:19:37.36,0:19:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into kind of tunnel vision when i get Dialogue: 0,0:19:39.52,0:19:41.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really tired and it's really hard to Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.84,0:19:42.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,focus Dialogue: 0,0:19:42.72,0:19:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so at the same time i'm waiting for the Dialogue: 0,0:19:45.20,0:19:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clarity to come back i'm desperately Dialogue: 0,0:19:48.00,0:19:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to find a better hold or better Dialogue: 0,0:19:50.48,0:19:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,body position that could allow me to Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.36,0:19:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shake just a little bit more to Dialogue: 0,0:19:56.56,0:19:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not rush me into the next moves yet Dialogue: 0,0:19:59.52,0:20:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because i really don't want to mess up Dialogue: 0,0:20:02.08,0:20:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.24,0:20:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i don't know how to swap arms Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.40,0:20:08.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but since the holes are not that good to Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.88,0:20:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rest on i knew that i have to start Dialogue: 0,0:20:11.52,0:20:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thinking what's next and the next is the Dialogue: 0,0:20:14.24,0:20:17.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,left hand up so i decided to swap my Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.28,0:20:19.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,arms so my right arm stays on the better Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.92,0:20:22.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,part of the hold quick glance over the Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.64,0:20:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,footholds and hope for the best Dialogue: 0,0:20:29.84,0:20:33.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice dude Dialogue: 0,0:20:40.72,0:20:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so a little camera teleportation magic Dialogue: 0,0:20:43.36,0:20:46.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while i'm enjoying the last rest Dialogue: 0,0:20:46.00,0:20:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and a final section which is not really Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.72,0:20:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard but a little bit tricky and tricky Dialogue: 0,0:20:52.16,0:20:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not that great when you are under Dialogue: 0,0:20:54.48,0:20:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sending pressure Dialogue: 0,0:20:56.32,0:20:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,good trying Dialogue: 0,0:20:59.44,0:21:00.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:21:00.80,0:21:03.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on dude Dialogue: 0,0:21:13.92,0:21:16.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.68,0:21:24.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so only few moves left but as a true Dialogue: 0,0:21:24.32,0:21:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,weak climber i couldn't miss an Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.24,0:21:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,opportunity for a good shake Dialogue: 0,0:21:28.48,0:21:31.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,notice that i'm not rushing to clip here Dialogue: 0,0:21:31.36,0:21:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's much better to shake it out first Dialogue: 0,0:21:33.84,0:21:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get into a better position and only then Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.64,0:21:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clip also notice my left leg i stepped Dialogue: 0,0:21:40.08,0:21:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out of overhang as much as i can this Dialogue: 0,0:21:42.88,0:21:44.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,makes my position Dialogue: 0,0:21:44.72,0:21:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way less overhanging and much better to Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.20,0:21:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rest Dialogue: 0,0:21:48.96,0:21:52.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and since i'm very close to sending my Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.08,0:21:54.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sending pressure keeps going up and up Dialogue: 0,0:21:54.88,0:21:56.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and up Dialogue: 0,0:21:56.08,0:21:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the trick is to Dialogue: 0,0:21:58.80,0:22:04.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at least try to stay as calm as you can Dialogue: 0,0:22:04.35,0:22:12.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:22:30.28,0:22:33.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.80,0:22:40.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how does that feel dude Dialogue: 0,0:22:41.29,0:22:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:22:43.20,0:22:44.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to get my Dialogue: 0,0:22:44.72,0:22:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,breath back back Dialogue: 0,0:22:47.12,0:22:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,um Dialogue: 0,0:22:50.32,0:22:53.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's even the easiest 7c i've ever Dialogue: 0,0:22:53.84,0:22:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or Dialogue: 0,0:22:54.96,0:22:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i got already stronger so till this Dialogue: 0,0:22:56.96,0:22:59.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,point it's been only two months of me Dialogue: 0,0:22:59.20,0:23:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,training with lattice guys so it's a bit Dialogue: 0,0:23:01.44,0:23:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,early to judge what kind of effect that Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.40,0:23:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,had on my climbing performance however Dialogue: 0,0:23:06.96,0:23:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in next video i'm gonna show you how all Dialogue: 0,0:23:09.36,0:23:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of my training looked like Dialogue: 0,0:23:12.00,0:23:12.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Dialogue: 0,0:23:12.96,0:23:16.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some numbers but for now it's charlie's Dialogue: 0,0:23:16.00,0:23:19.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time to send this 7c Dialogue: 0,0:23:20.57,0:23:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:23:23.04,0:23:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uh Dialogue: 0,0:23:29.65,0:23:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:23:36.72,0:23:37.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice come on Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.99,0:23:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:23:42.16,0:23:44.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:23:44.32,0:23:45.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:23:45.91,0:23:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:23:52.16,0:23:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on you got this Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.92,0:24:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.60,0:24:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on buddy Dialogue: 0,0:24:03.60,0:24:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:05.44,0:24:07.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:09.49,0:24:10.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:24:10.96,0:24:14.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:14.64,0:24:18.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:22.08,0:24:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,knew it dude Dialogue: 0,0:24:24.64,0:24:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you knew it i knew it you knew wrong Dialogue: 0,0:24:27.84,0:24:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thanks yeah i almost lose my Dialogue: 0,0:24:30.84,0:24:33.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feet yeah you need to work on the Dialogue: 0,0:24:33.12,0:24:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,section after this big move so well Dialogue: 0,0:24:36.00,0:24:38.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,classic mistake of not having the Dialogue: 0,0:24:38.00,0:24:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,perfect beta right after the hardest Dialogue: 0,0:24:40.72,0:24:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,move because that's charlie his send on Dialogue: 0,0:24:43.60,0:24:44.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the first go Dialogue: 0,0:24:44.88,0:24:47.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he tried to fix that and this is his Dialogue: 0,0:24:47.28,0:24:48.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,second goal for the day Dialogue: 0,0:24:48.89,0:24:50.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:24:50.16,0:24:50.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:50.75,0:24:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:24:52.24,0:24:54.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:24:58.96,0:25:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:25:00.48,0:25:02.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:25:02.72,0:25:04.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:25:04.56,0:25:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah yeah come on come on Dialogue: 0,0:25:08.96,0:25:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on come on come on Dialogue: 0,0:25:10.80,0:25:11.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no Dialogue: 0,0:25:11.84,0:25:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,man Dialogue: 0,0:25:18.32,0:25:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but no cigar Dialogue: 0,0:25:21.36,0:25:24.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but very very close Dialogue: 0,0:25:24.16,0:25:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i really want to do it today though Dialogue: 0,0:25:25.36,0:25:27.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's the thing Dialogue: 0,0:25:27.36,0:25:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so stress and pressure it's probably Dialogue: 0,0:25:30.56,0:25:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,inevitable to happen when you're trying Dialogue: 0,0:25:33.04,0:25:36.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to push your max grade while sometimes Dialogue: 0,0:25:36.16,0:25:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you might just get lucky and send most Dialogue: 0,0:25:38.56,0:25:40.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the time it's actually better to Dialogue: 0,0:25:40.64,0:25:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,allow yourself to fail just tell Dialogue: 0,0:25:42.88,0:25:45.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yourself i'm gonna climb this route as Dialogue: 0,0:25:45.04,0:25:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,far as i can and if i fail that's okay Dialogue: 0,0:25:48.32,0:25:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no i think you did this way too easy you Dialogue: 0,0:25:50.48,0:25:52.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,did this all this there's another aa Dialogue: 0,0:25:52.48,0:25:55.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here now if your mind resists the idea Dialogue: 0,0:25:55.60,0:25:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that failing is okay just keep pushing Dialogue: 0,0:25:58.32,0:26:00.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,through it because the reality is Dialogue: 0,0:26:00.16,0:26:02.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whether you send or you don't Dialogue: 0,0:26:02.48,0:26:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nothing is gonna change in your life Dialogue: 0,0:26:04.24,0:26:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after every fail you're still alive Dialogue: 0,0:26:06.40,0:26:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're still surrounded by great friends Dialogue: 0,0:26:08.96,0:26:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,having great time Dialogue: 0,0:26:11.68,0:26:13.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in action so by pushing through these Dialogue: 0,0:26:13.84,0:26:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fails the pressure will start going Dialogue: 0,0:26:16.48,0:26:18.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lower and lower and lower until it Dialogue: 0,0:26:18.24,0:26:20.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,becomes manageable and at some point Dialogue: 0,0:26:20.24,0:26:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chances are that you are going to send Dialogue: 0,0:26:22.80,0:26:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what is superglue apparently was made in Dialogue: 0,0:26:24.56,0:26:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Dialogue: 0,0:26:25.68,0:26:28.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,second world war to close wounds so we Dialogue: 0,0:26:28.24,0:26:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are closing the wounds now Dialogue: 0,0:26:30.56,0:26:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we're closing wounds well the best Dialogue: 0,0:26:32.40,0:26:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way to find out if this works Dialogue: 0,0:26:34.40,0:26:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is uh well the best way i can find out Dialogue: 0,0:26:36.32,0:26:38.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is test it on somebody else and then Dialogue: 0,0:26:38.32,0:26:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you'll get loads of comments on saying Dialogue: 0,0:26:40.08,0:26:42.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how to do it correctly Dialogue: 0,0:26:42.48,0:26:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay let's do it Dialogue: 0,0:26:44.16,0:26:46.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's do it Dialogue: 0,0:26:46.24,0:26:49.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i suppose let's just do that there Dialogue: 0,0:26:50.32,0:26:51.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:26:51.52,0:26:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you think i should press it together or Dialogue: 0,0:26:53.68,0:26:55.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just leave it like this oh [ __ ] i don't Dialogue: 0,0:26:55.52,0:26:57.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know i don't know oh no [ __ ] i'm going Dialogue: 0,0:26:57.92,0:27:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'll see you guys later so now you feel Dialogue: 0,0:27:00.00,0:27:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like sending Dialogue: 0,0:27:01.92,0:27:06.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes i mean i stick to the wall now Dialogue: 0,0:27:06.56,0:27:07.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you need to hold your finger up in the Dialogue: 0,0:27:07.76,0:27:10.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wind Dialogue: 0,0:27:11.52,0:27:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this yeah yeah yeah Dialogue: 0,0:27:13.36,0:27:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wind's coming i know the answer Dialogue: 0,0:27:15.36,0:27:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wind's coming from that way though Dialogue: 0,0:27:17.36,0:27:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now you know the answer it's getting Dialogue: 0,0:27:19.12,0:27:21.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there it's getting there really Dialogue: 0,0:27:21.20,0:27:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay we wait we wait but then you can Dialogue: 0,0:27:23.12,0:27:24.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sand it down and you can make the finger Dialogue: 0,0:27:24.72,0:27:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you want Dialogue: 0,0:27:25.92,0:27:27.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can you can do it Dialogue: 0,0:27:27.52,0:27:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can have the perfect perfect this Dialogue: 0,0:27:29.44,0:27:31.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sounds great can you also tell for Dialogue: 0,0:27:31.68,0:27:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,people to not do this yeah don't do it Dialogue: 0,0:27:37.04,0:27:38.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm gonna give it one go hike or my Dialogue: 0,0:27:38.72,0:27:42.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,finger already hurts Dialogue: 0,0:27:45.89,0:27:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:27:51.36,0:27:54.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah yeah pink Dialogue: 0,0:27:54.32,0:27:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:27:56.00,0:27:58.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right leg up Dialogue: 0,0:27:58.34,0:28:09.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:28:12.32,0:28:14.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this move is not hard at all Dialogue: 0,0:28:14.91,0:28:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:28:17.20,0:28:20.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why don't you get rid of the tape Dialogue: 0,0:28:22.32,0:28:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's open again Dialogue: 0,0:28:23.84,0:28:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh really yeah Dialogue: 0,0:28:27.12,0:28:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i would not climb Dialogue: 0,0:28:28.72,0:28:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,low on me let it heal Dialogue: 0,0:28:34.88,0:28:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[ __ ] Dialogue: 0,0:28:35.84,0:28:38.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm delay slave today Dialogue: 0,0:28:38.00,0:28:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so your uh glue trick blue trick didn't Dialogue: 0,0:28:40.72,0:28:42.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work at all Dialogue: 0,0:28:42.96,0:28:44.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i have now Dialogue: 0,0:28:44.40,0:28:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah so Dialogue: 0,0:28:45.84,0:28:48.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,real life is not always a movie although Dialogue: 0,0:28:48.80,0:28:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're kind of watching a movie Dialogue: 0,0:28:51.04,0:28:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but at the same time you're watching a Dialogue: 0,0:28:52.80,0:28:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,real life Dialogue: 0,0:28:54.24,0:28:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and real life doesn't always have a Dialogue: 0,0:28:56.64,0:28:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happy ending Dialogue: 0,0:29:07.68,0:29:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what happened Dialogue: 0,0:29:10.96,0:29:13.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm not sure dude Dialogue: 0,0:29:21.36,0:29:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this hole is so [ __ ] hard now Dialogue: 0,0:29:24.64,0:29:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yummy Dialogue: 0,0:29:26.88,0:29:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pressure Dialogue: 0,0:29:28.56,0:29:30.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,under pressure Dialogue: 0,0:29:30.80,0:29:34.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,under pressure yep as i already said Dialogue: 0,0:29:34.00,0:29:36.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes the best way to deal with Dialogue: 0,0:29:36.08,0:29:37.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pressure Dialogue: 0,0:29:37.20,0:29:41.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is to just let it beat you then stand up Dialogue: 0,0:29:41.20,0:29:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and try again Dialogue: 0,0:29:42.88,0:29:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it will make your mind much stronger not Dialogue: 0,0:29:45.44,0:29:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only in climbing but in life as Dialogue: 0,0:29:52.84,0:29:56.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well on Dialogue: 0,0:30:00.04,0:30:04.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:30:04.18,0:30:07.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Applause] Dialogue: 0,0:30:17.04,0:30:19.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on you got this Dialogue: 0,0:30:19.28,0:30:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah come on Dialogue: 0,0:30:25.04,0:30:28.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:30:34.72,0:30:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just need a moment yeah Dialogue: 0,0:30:42.00,0:30:44.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i was like if he's gonna whip on this Dialogue: 0,0:30:44.00,0:30:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clip Dialogue: 0,0:30:45.36,0:30:47.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,imagine that Dialogue: 0,0:30:47.92,0:30:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh i'm shaking dude Dialogue: 0,0:30:51.60,0:30:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climb to a bit higher and then try to Dialogue: 0,0:30:53.52,0:30:54.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rest here Dialogue: 0,0:30:54.64,0:30:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:30:55.44,0:30:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this right hand side pull is really good Dialogue: 0,0:30:57.36,0:31:00.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for resting Dialogue: 0,0:31:01.79,0:31:05.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:31:05.20,0:31:05.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:31:05.84,0:31:07.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:31:07.20,0:31:10.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay enjoy Dialogue: 0,0:31:11.44,0:31:21.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:31:21.12,0:31:24.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thank you Dialogue: 0,0:31:30.11,0:31:41.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:31:42.24,0:31:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:31:43.60,0:31:46.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:31:48.24,0:31:50.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:31:50.64,0:31:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nice Dialogue: 0,0:31:55.06,0:31:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:31:58.08,0:32:02.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you are gonna fall now a danker Dialogue: 0,0:32:02.80,0:32:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come on Dialogue: 0,0:32:03.92,0:32:06.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that would suck wouldn't it Dialogue: 0,0:32:06.32,0:32:08.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whoa Dialogue: 0,0:32:09.60,0:32:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dude i was there just shaking away like Dialogue: 0,0:32:12.24,0:32:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can like calm down calm down i couldn't Dialogue: 0,0:32:14.48,0:32:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i couldn't i was like if i stay here any Dialogue: 0,0:32:16.08,0:32:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,longer i'm just making it worse like Dialogue: 0,0:32:19.52,0:32:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but yeah it went nicely good run you too Dialogue: 0,0:32:22.48,0:32:24.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dude well done good send as well good Dialogue: 0,0:32:24.64,0:32:25.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,balloon Dialogue: 0,0:32:25.84,0:32:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really good playing in a Dialogue: 0,0:32:27.84,0:32:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how did the harness feel yes super nice Dialogue: 0,0:32:30.56,0:32:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like whoa you felt the difference yeah a Dialogue: 0,0:32:33.28,0:32:34.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot Dialogue: 0,0:32:34.00,0:32:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why are you doing marketing to mommy Dialogue: 0,0:32:35.84,0:32:37.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah well i'm not i'm not i'm not i'm Dialogue: 0,0:32:37.84,0:32:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right so he's not so i will since Dialogue: 0,0:32:40.88,0:32:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mahmoud has been a huge support for my Dialogue: 0,0:32:42.88,0:32:44.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,channel i wanted to say special thank Dialogue: 0,0:32:44.80,0:32:46.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you for that and the story behind the Dialogue: 0,0:32:46.88,0:32:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harness is that we've been recording a Dialogue: 0,0:32:49.20,0:32:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ton of delaying experiments and mel's Dialogue: 0,0:32:51.60,0:32:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,legs started hurting from flying all the Dialogue: 0,0:32:54.08,0:32:58.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time that's for hurting your legs Dialogue: 0,0:32:58.16,0:33:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so thank you mel for flying and mammoth Dialogue: 0,0:33:00.24,0:33:02.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for supporting and in the next episode Dialogue: 0,0:33:02.72,0:33:04.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we will jump on our first Dialogue: 0,0:33:04.84,0:33:09.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,8a come on Dialogue: 0,0:33:17.20,0:33:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's kind of beautiful here Dialogue: 0,0:33:19.36,0:33:21.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you want to see Dialogue: 0,0:33:23.36,0:33:24.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cool now Dialogue: 0,0:33:24.56,0:33:26.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so as always Dialogue: 0,0:33:26.48,0:33:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enjoy climbing Dialogue: 0,0:33:27.84,0:33:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,projecting Dialogue: 0,0:33:29.20,0:33:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Dialogue: 0,0:33:30.08,0:33:32.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you want some karma points you can Dialogue: 0,0:33:32.08,0:33:33.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,visit my website Dialogue: 0,0:33:33.68,0:33:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that helps me to pay the bills Dialogue: 0,0:33:36.24,0:33:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and see you in the next episode