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"Is Liquid Smoke Flavoring Carcinogenic?"
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We know smoke inhalation
isn't good for us,
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what about smoke
ingestion?
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Decades ago, smoke
flavorings were tested
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to see if they caused DNA
mutations in bacteria,
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and the test
was negative.
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Even as more and more
smoke flavoring was added,
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the DNA mutation rate
remained about the same.
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But the fact that something
is not mutagenic in bacteria
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has little predictive value
for its effect on human cells,
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so a group at MIT tested
a hickory smoke flavoring
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they just bought at the store against
two types of human white blood cells.
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Unlike the bacteria,
the mutation rate shot up
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as more and more liquid
smoke was added.
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But there is little evidence
that mutagenic activity
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in a particular human cell
line is more closely related
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to human health risk than is
mutagenic activity in bacteria.
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In other words, just
because liquid smoke
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causes DNA mutations to human
cells in a petri dish,
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doesn't mean that it does the
same thing within the human body.
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Damaging DNA is just one of many
ways chemicals can be toxic to cells.
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A decade later researchers
tested to see what effect
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liquid smoke had on
overall cell viability.
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If you drip water on
cells, nothing happens,
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they keep powering away
at around 100% survival.
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But drip on more and
more wood fire smoke
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and you can start killing
some of the cells off.
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Cigarette smoke
is more toxic,
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but 3 out of 4 of the brands
of liquid smoke they bought
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at the supermarket killed
off even more cells,
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leading them to conclude that
the cytotoxic potential
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of some commercial smoke
flavorings is greater
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than that of liquid
cigarette smoke–
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a finding they no doubt celebrated
given that the researchers
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were paid employees of the
R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company.
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Unfortunately, they didn't name
names of the offending brands.
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That's one of the reasons I was
so excited about this new study,
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where they tested—and named 15
different brands of liquid smoke.
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This maximum "response" they were measuring
was what was called p53 activation.
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P53 is a protein we make,
illustrated here in pink and red,
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that binds to our
DNA, shown in blue.
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It activates our
DNA repair enzymes.
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So a big P53 response might be
indicative of a lot of DNA damage,
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and a few of the liquid smoke
flavorings activated P53
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almost as much as a chemotherapy
drug like Etoposide
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whose whole purpose is
to break DNA strands.
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Other flavorings
didn't seem as bad,
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though there was a hickory smoke
powder that ranked pretty high,
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as did the fish sauce, though smoked
paprika didn't register at all.
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The p53-activating property
in liquid smoke was eliminated
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by standard baking
conditions (350°F for 1h),
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so if we bake something with
liquid smoke for long enough
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it should eliminate
this effect,
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though just boiling, even for
an hour, or slow cooking
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didn't appear to work.
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They conclude, "If the DNA-damaging
activities of liquid smoke"
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"were thought to be deleterious,
it might be possible to replace"
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"liquid smoke with other,
safer, smoky substances."
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Why do they say IF thought
to be deleterious?
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That's because they're not
directly measuring DNA damage.
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Remember, they're measuring
P53 activation,
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and that's not
necessarily a bad thing.
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P53 is considered "Guardian of
our Genome," guardian of our DNA.
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It's considered a
tumor suppressor gene,
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because it helps
repair our DNA.
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So if something boosts the activity
of P53, is that good or bad?
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It's like the
broccoli story.
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Cruciferous vegetables dramatically
boost our liver's detoxifying enzymes.
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Is this because our body
sees broccoli as toxic
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and is trying to get
rid of it quicker?
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Either way, the end result from
broccoli is good, lower cancer risk.
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It's maybe a biological
phenomenon known as hormesis,
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that which doesn't kill
us may make us stronger.
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Like exercise is a
stress on the body,
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but in the right amount can make
us healthier in the long run.
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So, for example, teas and coffees
caused P53 activation as well,
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but their consumption is associated
with lower cancer risk.
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So it's hard to know what to make
of that smoke flavoring P53 data.
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Due to the limitations
of the available tests
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it's hard to calculate the genotoxic
potential of liquid smoke,
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or any other food
for that matter.
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A better approach may be to just analyze
liquid smoke for known carcinogens,
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chemicals that we
know cause cancer.
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This was first attempted
back in 1971.
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One of the seven liquid
smoke flavors they tested
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contained a polycyclic
aromatic hydrocarbon
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known to be
cancer-causing,
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but there's a bunch of similar
carcinogens that they didn't test for.
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A later study, tested
across the board,
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looking specifically at
5 different carcinogens
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in retail liquid
smoke seasonings.
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The recommended daily upper safety
limit for these carcinogens is 47.
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Hickory smoke flavoring
only has 0.8 per teaspoon,
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so you'd have to drink three bottles
a day to bump up against the limit.
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And mesquite liquid
smoke, only 1.1.
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It turns out that most of these
carcinogens in smoke are fat soluble,
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and so when you make a water-based
solution, like liquid smoke,
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you capture the smoke
flavor compounds
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without capturing most of
the smoke cancer compounds.
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The only time you need to really
worry is eating smoked foods,
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foods directly exposed
to actual smoke.
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For example, smoked
ham comes up to here,
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and smoked turkey
breast up to here.
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So one sandwich and we may
be half way to the limit.
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But one serving of
barbecued chicken takes us...
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over the top.
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Less than a single drumstick
and we may nearly
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double our daily allotment
of these carcinogens.
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Nothing, however,
is as bad as fish.
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Smoked herring? 140.
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And we have to shrink down the graph
to fit the worst of the worst...
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smoked salmon.
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One bagel with lox could take
us 10 times over the limit.