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Comparing Soft Catch Methods - Largest Climbing Study Part 2

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    All right, welcome back to the largest
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    study on climbing falls. In the first
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    episode we looked how does extra slack
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    affect the fall, or more precisely does
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    falling more reduce the pendulum into
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    the wall and how hard the climber is
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    going to hit the wall, and then I showed
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    you the importance of soft catch and
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    what a massive difference that makes and
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    also that hard catches are not only the
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    problem for heavier belayers
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    lighter belayers often lack practice to
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    give soft catches since most of the time
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    they don't need they fly up anyway but
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    in exceptional cases with enough
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    friction... -My foot -What happened to your
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    foot -Well it was a hard fall - Heavey belayer?
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    -Llight belayer. Yeah yeah and I also
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    asked you guys I'm curious did you ever
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    got unexpectedly hard catch from a light
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    belayer? And turns out this happens more
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    often than I
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    thought. so yeah light or heavy you're
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    going to love this episode because we're
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    going to investigate which method of
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    giving soft catch is the best. We're
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    going to compare stepping forward versus
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    jumping up and as a bonus the tube slide
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    method where the belayer lets the rope
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    slide through the device which is more
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    common in trad
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    climbing so let's begin. Now in the
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    previous episode I showed you this
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    beautiful horizontal velocity graphs and
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    I explained that the peak of horizontal
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    velocity is at the bottom of the
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    pendulum and that is a good indicator
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    how hard the climber would meet the wall
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    if the wall would not be overhanging and
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    in this test I wanted to go a step
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    further and see what happens when the
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    climber meets the wall. - 1... 2... 3...
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    and my idea this time was to
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    measure deceleration during the impact
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    and in many of our test cases
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    this idea was working really well. If we
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    compare the soft catches to the hard one
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    you can see a huge spike in
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    deceleration. However after doing lots
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    and lots of more falls and analyzing the
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    data I realized that the peak
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    deceleration is not always a good metric
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    to look. for example take a look at this
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    hard catch you can visually see that it
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    was much harder for the climber but the
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    peak deceleration was nearly identical
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    to the soft catches before, so it turns
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    out our soft bodies are incredible at
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    absorbing
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    impacts but the problem is that it's
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    very difficult to measure what's
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    happening in our muscles during this
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    impact. So while peak deceleration was
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    interesting to look in some cases,
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    horizontal velocity at the moment of
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    impact was much better indicator. After
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    all, all of this velocity that we are
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    about to hit the wall will need to be
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    absorbed by our soft bodies. Okay so
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    let's see which method to give a soft
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    catch is the best. To not kill me on the
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    very first test we started with smaller
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    falls and jumping up technique. And these
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    falls were extremely nice and soft.
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    [Climber] - A soft ride!
    So let's see how stepping
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    forward will compare.
    [Climber] - 1... 2... 3...
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    - This is harder.
    And the fall this time
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    felt a little bit harder and we can also
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    see that in the graphs. However overall
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    it was still a very soft catch.
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    And the second fall was very similar.
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    Also a quick note: I was not sure
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    how much stiffer the rope gets over
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    multiple falls, and even though in this
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    video I'm presenting you all the data
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    grouped by method, meaning at first I
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    show you all the soft catches with
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    jumping up method, then I show you all
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    the soft catches with stepping forward,
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    in reality we did alternate between the
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    methods between every fall. So we did a
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    jumping up and then stepping forward, etc.
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    Pointless information for most of
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    you, but I know that a lot of geeks are
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    watching my videos and we like to write
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    nitpicky comments, so this is for you
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    nitpicky geek. All right now let's see
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    how the tube slide method compares and
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    while I was expecting a lot from this
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    method, the first fall wasn't any better.
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    The second fall had a very low momentum
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    into the wall but a lot of vertical
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    momentum, which made me almost run across
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    the wall, which was slightly
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    uncomfortable. So we tried again and this
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    time the fall was much nicer and I know
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    that people like to try all the crazy
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    things they see on the internet so
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    that's why I have to stress that this
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    tube slide method is really advanced, so
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    if you don't know what you're doing, make
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    sure that you have an expert guiding you.
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    Now if we would compare all the best
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    attempts of all the methods, we can see
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    that the jumping up was slightly better
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    but overall all the method were very
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    similar.
    [Climber] - So all of these falls felt quite
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    soft except the one where he does
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    nothing, then I fell to the wall.
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    Yeah we actually forgot to film hard catches
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    where the belayer does nothing on this
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    test, but no worries this was just a
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    small warm-up.
    And let's see some bigger falls.
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    So this time we started with a
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    tube slide method,
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    which at least in theory,
    lets the belayer achieve
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    any full arc.
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    And here is one more attempt
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    this time with even bigger arc or longer
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    braking distance, and the fall was just
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    tiny bit softer for the climber. For now
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    I'm just going to keep the softest
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    attempt in the charts and let's see how
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    does that compare to the jumping up
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    technique. And we can see that the first
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    fall was slightly smaller, however it had
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    nearly identical horizontal acceleration
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    and velocity. However it also had lower
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    absolute velocity, which is actually
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    better for the climber. Now the second
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    fall was slightly smaller
    but had a tiny bit
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    more horizontal velocity towards the wall
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    and again let's keep the best
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    attempts of each method and see how does
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    that compare to the stepping forward technique.
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    And we can see that the fall
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    was smallest however it had the greatest
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    impact to the wall. Now on the second
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    attempt the belayer did a much better job
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    and the fall was significantly softer.
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    And if we compare all the best attempts
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    of all the methods, we can see that the
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    horizontal speed at the moment of impact
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    was nearly identical. Which means that at
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    least in this test case scenario,
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    a skilled belayer can achieve almost the
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    same results with any method. But since
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    consistency in catches also matters,
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    if we compare the worst attempts,
    tube slide method
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    was the best, followed by jumping up,
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    and then the stepping forward was the worst.
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    However even the worst cases of
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    any of these methods were much much
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    better compared to the passive belay.
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    So the first arising takeaway was that no
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    matter which method you choose to give a
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    soft catch, it's going to be much better
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    than passively standing and doing
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    nothing.
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    And as always one test is no test, so I
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    wanted to repeat these tests in a
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    different location with another belayer.
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    Ricky who has also a lot of experience
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    using this tube slide method, and he told
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    me that it's actually
    his preferred method.
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    So, high expectations.
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    [Climber] - Two, three...
    - Okay
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    - Falling!
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    - Aw, that was super soft!
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    So we did three attempts, and all
    of them had very similar
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    horizontal velocity.
    Nice, for consistency.
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    Next we tested the stepping
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    forward method and we can see that the
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    fall was much shorter and had a much
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    greater swing into the wall. It seemed
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    that the belayer was pulled towards the
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    wall way too much, and did not have enough
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    control to make the fall smooth.
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    [Music]
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    All right next the jumping up method,
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    where Ricky actually did a very bad job
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    on the first attempt.
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    And the same happened on the
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    second attempt where his jump was very
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    minimal only initiated a little bit from
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    his right calf. So that's not how you
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    jump and that's why I decided to ignore
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    these two attempts for the poor technique,
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    and after he adjusted his technique
    on the third jump,
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    he jumped with both legs
    and it was much much better.
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    And finally we did one passive
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    catch where the belayer does nothing and
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    same as before, it causes significantly
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    higher swing into the wall. So at least
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    in this test case scenario, tube slide
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    was the best, followed by jumping up, and
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    stepping forward was again the
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    worst so stepping forward versus uh
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    jumping up yes stepping forward was not
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    in a controlled way I was just pulled to
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    the wall mm I tried to lean
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    backwards to to break to catch a fall
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    but it was not in a controll way and
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    jumping up I can choose how much I want
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    to jump and at what timing so overall
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    which method is the best will heavily
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    depend on your experience using this
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    methods however stepping forward seemed
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    to be the worst and gave the least
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    control and also worth mentioning is
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    that standing too far in many situations
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    can drag the Blair into the wall
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    completely
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    uncontrollably okay now was
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    like and that would make the catch even
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    harder all right but what if the Blair
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    is significantly heavier in that case if
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    you try the jumping method there is not
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    much pull up by the rope and jumping is
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    much more difficult so maybe stepping
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    forward is better in this case to test
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    that kishu suggested to introduce extra
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    friction which basically makes the
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    blayer
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    heavier can we try like this he wants to
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    kill me so that's what we got a little
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    zigzag in the beginning and then a
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    straight line all the way to the climber
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    so the Rope actually is not going over
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    the edge it's just very sharp angle you
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    have to for sorry he says you have to
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    fall 1 2
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    [Music]
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    3 the swing into the wall
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    is
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    okayish so we started with jumping
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    method which felt slightly harder with
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    increased friction but still plenty soft
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    enough
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    yeah just take a look at this Bel
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    running up the wall and even avoiding
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    his arm being squished into the first
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    Quick Draw skills huh so let's see if
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    with increased friction stepping forward
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    will be better this time he was not
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    pulled into the wall uncontrollably
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    anymore it also looks like he got the
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    perfect timing and even started running
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    forward just before they impact however
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    they swing into the ball for the climber
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    was still harder compared to the jumping
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    method okay next we did a series of tube
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    slight catches the first felt very nice
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    and soft now the second fall had even
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    softer impact with the wall however I
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    still had a lot of momentum downwards
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    which forced me almost run down the wall
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    which is a little bit
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    awkward and the last fall had a very
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    similar
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    effect
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    and if we look into the best cases for
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    each method we can see that jumping up
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    and Tube slide were very very similar
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    and the stepping forward was slightly
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    worse and this bar chart plots all the
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    Falls so we can see that on average tube
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    slide method performed the best followed
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    by jumping up and then stepping forward
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    was the worst now from Pure feeling
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    standpoint for me as a climber both
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    jumping up and Tube slide methods felt
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    very nice and soft maybe if I would be
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    nitpicking this extra momentum downwards
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    sometimes on the tube slide method was
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    slightly uncomfortable although in
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    theory the blayer should be able to give
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    almost any kind of catch with this
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    method and the stepping forward method
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    was maybe slightly harder had slightly
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    bigger impact to the wall however it was
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    still plenty soft enough and what is not
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    soft enough is passive blay so once
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    again no matter which soft catch method
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    we tried it was significantly better
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    than passive Bay and with added friction
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    the Bayer wasn't even lifted off the
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    ground this time previously when we had
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    no friction passive blay looked like
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    this the blayer was still pulled up but
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    now with extra friction that is not the
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    case anymore and you can see how the
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    climber is being pulled up and into the
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    wall even
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    harder
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    yeah okay that
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    was that was the way it was so yeah
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    don't forget to subscribe I might need
  • 14:45 - 14:47
    advertisement money to fix my broken
  • 14:47 - 14:52
    body at old age so what's your favorite
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    method yeah jumping up jumping up yes
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    mhm okay so we were leaning towards
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    jumping as our favorite meth foot but
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    what if the blayer is really really
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    heavy or there is so much friction in
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    the system that the Rope Almost Doesn't
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    pull the Blair up in that case you can
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    jump I don't know what 30 40 cm maybe 50
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    if you're a crazy athlete but is that
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    enough for the soft catch and this
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    brings us to this experiment here we did
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    a series of false alternating between
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    stepping forward and jumping up and we
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    measured the forces to the climber and
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    same as before jumping up was
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    consistently better than stepping
  • 15:38 - 15:41
    forward and doing nothing was
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    significantly worse and then we decided
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    to introduce this zigzag in the rout and
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    although it doesn't look like much it
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    actually added a ton of friction
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    basically imitating a very heavy blay
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    what wa I couldn't jump at all and as I
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    was expecting jumping up was not working
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    at all in this case so let's see if
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    stepping forward is going to be better 2
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    1 wow that was
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    solid
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    2.5 oh [ __ ] Z and it actually was even
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    worse man I cannot give you a soft catch
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    this way so yeah no matter how much I
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    Tri to jump I was not able to give a
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    truly soft catch and stepping forward
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    was even
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    worse it's impossible to give a soft
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    catch like this to time well the
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    stepping forward and such a short fall
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    is nearly impossible yeah now while it
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    seemed that heavy blers are doomed on
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    this next experiment I actually
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    discovered something that helps this
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    time I was belaying a light girl and as
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    before I was also struggling to give a
  • 17:02 - 17:06
    soft catch the jumping simply did not
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    work and neither did the stepping
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    forward method but then I discovered
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    something better better this one was
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    soft yes it's soft so yeah turns out
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    that bending Den KN will give you more
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    range of movement and in this test case
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    scenario it made a huge difference it
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    the fall
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    was just super soft and the others was
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    boom like boom yeah yeah yeah so it's Bo
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    versus and we prefer wo you prefer woo
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    yeah yeah and although I already
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    mentioned this in the first episode but
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    it's really important to stress that
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    simply throwing a lot of Slack does not
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    mean a soft catch
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    okay this [ __ ] and in a case of a
  • 18:09 - 18:13
    passive Bay can end up very badly and
  • 18:13 - 18:15
    the only reason she was fine in this
  • 18:15 - 18:17
    case was because she was falling
  • 18:17 - 18:20
    straight down under the Quick Draw so
  • 18:20 - 18:23
    all she felt was just a jerk to the
  • 18:23 - 18:25
    harness in a different situation with a
  • 18:25 - 18:28
    little bit of swing that kind of catch
  • 18:28 - 18:32
    with would probably break her ankles so
  • 18:32 - 18:34
    instead of feeding a ton of slack for
  • 18:34 - 18:37
    your climber maybe you should feed your
  • 18:37 - 18:39
    climber and as we saw If the fall is
  • 18:39 - 18:42
    small bending the knees before the fall
  • 18:42 - 18:45
    might help now in case of a big whipper
  • 18:45 - 18:48
    the fall naturally is much bigger so you
  • 18:48 - 18:50
    will have more time to go down and
  • 18:50 - 18:53
    explode up and from B mechanical
  • 18:53 - 18:55
    standpoint since our muscles act as
  • 18:55 - 18:58
    Springs going down and jumping up should
  • 18:58 - 19:01
    result into a higher jump now if that
  • 19:01 - 19:04
    doesn't help I would suggest more food
  • 19:04 - 19:06
    cycles and if that's not an option then
  • 19:06 - 19:09
    I've seen a method used by a very heavy
  • 19:09 - 19:11
    Blair which worked very well for him
  • 19:11 - 19:15
    where he took a little bit of slack with
  • 19:15 - 19:18
    his lead hand and during the impact he
  • 19:18 - 19:22
    used his lead hand to soften the
  • 19:23 - 19:26
    catch it is extremely important to not
  • 19:26 - 19:29
    have too much slack here or you will
  • 19:29 - 19:32
    burn your hand so be smart and use this
  • 19:32 - 19:35
    at your own risk this is sketchy but
  • 19:35 - 19:37
    I've seen it working really well or
  • 19:37 - 19:39
    alternatively go old school and learn
  • 19:39 - 19:42
    how to use tube style BL then it doesn't
  • 19:42 - 19:44
    matter what's the weight of the climber
  • 19:44 - 19:46
    you can always make a soft catch but of
  • 19:46 - 19:49
    course that comes with its own risks of
  • 19:49 - 19:51
    not having assisted blade device but for
  • 19:51 - 19:54
    majority of you jumping up is going to
  • 19:54 - 19:57
    be the best and if for whatever reason
  • 19:57 - 19:59
    you find yourself away from the wall
  • 19:59 - 20:02
    then just do stepping forward as we saw
  • 20:02 - 20:04
    whatever soft catch method is much
  • 20:04 - 20:07
    better than passive delay now I
  • 20:07 - 20:08
    understand that this video was full of
  • 20:08 - 20:11
    charts and graphs and chances are if
  • 20:11 - 20:12
    you're still watching you're a little
  • 20:12 - 20:15
    bit nerdy however I'm going to make a
  • 20:15 - 20:17
    separate video for my blay Master Class
  • 20:17 - 20:19
    where I will go more on practical
  • 20:19 - 20:22
    details including those sketchy low to
  • 20:22 - 20:25
    the ground situations and also during
  • 20:25 - 20:27
    these two years we have measured forces
  • 20:27 - 20:30
    on hundred of Falls so we have a lot of
  • 20:30 - 20:32
    data but as I explained in previous
  • 20:32 - 20:35
    episodes Peak Force to the climber might
  • 20:35 - 20:37
    not be the most important factor for
  • 20:37 - 20:38
    sport
  • 20:38 - 20:41
    climbers however that might be much more
  • 20:41 - 20:46
    important for TR climbers keep a good
  • 20:47 - 20:51
    eye [ __ ] so I guess this deserves an
  • 20:51 - 20:53
    episode for trout climbers as well and
  • 20:53 - 20:56
    all of these people and supporters
  • 20:56 - 20:58
    deserve a huge thank you none of this
  • 20:58 - 21:00
    project would been possible without all
  • 21:00 - 21:04
    of you and you deserve some
  • 21:04 - 21:06
    knowledge for the last 6 months I was
  • 21:06 - 21:09
    warming up my brain in the mornings with
  • 21:09 - 21:12
    brilliant.org which is an awesome online
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    platform for learning math data science
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    and computer science
  • 21:18 - 21:20
    interactively good morning Ben how are
  • 21:20 - 21:22
    you ah feeling like Quan in for
  • 21:22 - 21:24
    dimensional space with emotions twisting
  • 21:24 - 21:27
    like meus transformation and my mood
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    transforming like like ien vector so not
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    only you get deeper connections with
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    your smart friends you also deepen your
  • 21:34 - 21:37
    scientific understanding of the world
  • 21:37 - 21:39
    just imagine how your regular life
  • 21:39 - 21:41
    problems will look when you will be
  • 21:41 - 21:44
    contemplating that we are all just
  • 21:44 - 21:47
    riding a giant rock through constantly
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    expanding space with supernovas and
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    solar winds or maybe before human
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    thinking becomes obsolete write a short
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    math point poem in a style of me you
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    want to know how Chad GPT works so
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    whenever you're are a complete beginner
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    or ready to dive into machine learning
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    and Beyond brilliant.org makes it easy
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    to level up fast with fun bite-sized
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    lessons and you can try all of this
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    completely for free for 30 days by
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    visiting brilliant.org heart disey and
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    first 200 of you can also get 20% off
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    their annual premium subscription
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    so thank you brilliant for making sure
  • 22:32 - 22:34
    that we still use our brain and thank
  • 22:34 - 22:37
    you for watching enjoy your brain and
  • 22:37 - 22:40
    climbing and see you in the next one now
  • 22:40 - 22:45
    it's going to be fun feeling like
  • 22:45 - 22:49
    qu that word
Title:
Comparing Soft Catch Methods - Largest Climbing Study Part 2
Description:

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Duration:
22:47

English subtitles

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