[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.12,0:00:02.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, welcome back to the largest
Dialogue: 0,0:00:02.20,0:00:05.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,study on climbing falls. In the first
Dialogue: 0,0:00:05.12,0:00:08.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode we looked how does extra slack
Dialogue: 0,0:00:08.36,0:00:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,affect the fall, or more precisely does
Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.32,0:00:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falling more reduce the pendulum into
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.32,0:00:16.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall and how hard the climber is
Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.52,0:00:18.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to hit the wall, and then I showed
Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.84,0:00:21.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you the importance of soft catch and
Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.64,0:00:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what a massive difference that makes and
Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.36,0:00:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also that hard catches are not only the
Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.40,0:00:30.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problem for heavier belayers
Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.60,0:00:33.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lighter belayers often lack practice to
Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.32,0:00:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,give soft catches since most of the time
Dialogue: 0,0:00:35.76,0:00:38.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they don't need they fly up anyway but
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.92,0:00:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in exceptional cases with enough
Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.12,0:00:44.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,friction... -My foot -What happened to your
Dialogue: 0,0:00:44.04,0:00:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,foot -Well it was a hard fall - Heavey belayer?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.00,0:00:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Llight belayer. Yeah yeah and I also
Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.84,0:00:55.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,asked you guys I'm curious did you ever
Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.32,0:00:58.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,got unexpectedly hard catch from a light
Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.60,0:01:01.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belayer? And turns out this happens more
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.88,0:01:03.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,often than I
Dialogue: 0,0:01:03.40,0:01:06.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thought. so yeah light or heavy you're
Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.04,0:01:08.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to love this episode because we're
Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.12,0:01:10.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to investigate which method of
Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.32,0:01:12.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving soft catch is the best. We're
Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.92,0:01:16.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to compare stepping forward versus
Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.00,0:01:19.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up and as a bonus the tube slide
Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.00,0:01:21.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method where the belayer lets the rope
Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.12,0:01:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slide through the device which is more
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.04,0:01:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,common in trad
Dialogue: 0,0:01:24.80,0:01:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing so let's begin. Now in the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.92,0:01:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,previous episode I showed you this
Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.00,0:01:32.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beautiful horizontal velocity graphs and
Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.80,0:01:35.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I explained that the peak of horizontal
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.72,0:01:38.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,velocity is at the bottom of the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.24,0:01:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pendulum and that is a good indicator
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.72,0:01:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how hard the climber would meet the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.16,0:01:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if the wall would not be overhanging and
Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.96,0:01:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this test I wanted to go a step
Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.20,0:01:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,further and see what happens when the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.60,0:01:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber meets the wall. - 1... 2... 3...
Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.92,0:01:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and my idea this time was to
Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.84,0:02:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measure deceleration during the impact
Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.60,0:02:06.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and in many of our test cases
Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.84,0:02:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this idea was working really well. If we
Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.84,0:02:13.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare the soft catches to the hard one
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.00,0:02:16.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can see a huge spike in
Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.00,0:02:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deceleration. However after doing lots
Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.80,0:02:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and lots of more falls and analyzing the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.44,0:02:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,data I realized that the peak
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.84,0:02:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deceleration is not always a good metric
Dialogue: 0,0:02:26.96,0:02:29.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to look. for example take a look at this
Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.48,0:02:32.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard catch you can visually see that it
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.08,0:02:35.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was much harder for the climber but the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.08,0:02:38.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,peak deceleration was nearly identical
Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.20,0:02:41.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the soft catches before, so it turns
Dialogue: 0,0:02:41.16,0:02:44.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out our soft bodies are incredible at
Dialogue: 0,0:02:44.52,0:02:45.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,absorbing
Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.80,0:02:48.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impacts but the problem is that it's
Dialogue: 0,0:02:48.40,0:02:50.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very difficult to measure what's
Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.08,0:02:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happening in our muscles during this
Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.32,0:02:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impact. So while peak deceleration was
Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.96,0:02:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting to look in some cases,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.04,0:02:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,horizontal velocity at the moment of
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.84,0:03:03.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impact was much better indicator. After
Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.28,0:03:05.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all, all of this velocity that we are
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.56,0:03:08.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about to hit the wall will need to be
Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.24,0:03:12.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,absorbed by our soft bodies. Okay so
Dialogue: 0,0:03:12.20,0:03:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's see which method to give a soft
Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.40,0:03:17.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,catch is the best. To not kill me on the
Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.60,0:03:20.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very first test we started with smaller
Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.28,0:03:24.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falls and jumping up technique. And these
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.20,0:03:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falls were extremely nice and soft.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.36,0:03:33.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - A soft ride! \NSo let's see how stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:03:33.80,0:03:38.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward will compare. \N[Climber] - 1... 2... 3...
Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.08,0:03:41.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- This is harder.\NAnd the fall this time
Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.68,0:03:45.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,felt a little bit harder and we can also
Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.16,0:03:48.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see that in the graphs. However overall
Dialogue: 0,0:03:48.48,0:03:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was still a very soft catch.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.92,0:03:54.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the second fall was very similar.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:54.84,0:03:58.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also a quick note: I was not sure
Dialogue: 0,0:03:58.04,0:04:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much stiffer the rope gets over
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.04,0:04:03.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiple falls, and even though in this
Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.64,0:04:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,video I'm presenting you all the data
Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.08,0:04:08.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grouped by method, meaning at first I
Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.88,0:04:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,show you all the soft catches with
Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.88,0:04:13.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up method, then I show you all
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.48,0:04:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the soft catches with stepping forward,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.76,0:04:18.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in reality we did alternate between the
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.52,0:04:21.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,methods between every fall. So we did a
Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.32,0:04:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up and then stepping forward, etc.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:23.92,0:04:26.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Pointless information for most of
Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.28,0:04:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you, but I know that a lot of geeks are
Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.72,0:04:30.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watching my videos and we like to write
Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.92,0:04:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nitpicky comments, so this is for you
Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.24,0:04:37.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nitpicky geek. All right now let's see
Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.28,0:04:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how the tube slide method compares and
Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.48,0:04:42.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while I was expecting a lot from this
Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.52,0:04:47.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method, the first fall wasn't any better.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.24,0:04:50.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The second fall had a very low momentum
Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.04,0:04:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the wall but a lot of vertical
Dialogue: 0,0:04:53.60,0:04:56.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,momentum, which made me almost run across
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.80,0:04:58.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall, which was slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.84,0:05:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uncomfortable. So we tried again and this
Dialogue: 0,0:05:02.08,0:05:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time the fall was much nicer and I know
Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.00,0:05:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that people like to try all the crazy
Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.16,0:05:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,things they see on the internet so
Dialogue: 0,0:05:10.48,0:05:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's why I have to stress that this
Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.16,0:05:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tube slide method is really advanced, so
Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.96,0:05:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you don't know what you're doing, make
Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.36,0:05:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sure that you have an expert guiding you.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.40,0:05:22.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if we would compare all the best
Dialogue: 0,0:05:22.36,0:05:24.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempts of all the methods, we can see
Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.92,0:05:28.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the jumping up was slightly better
Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.00,0:05:30.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but overall all the method were very
Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.92,0:05:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar. \N[Climber] - So all of these falls felt quite
Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.28,0:05:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft except the one where he does
Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.24,0:05:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nothing, then I fell to the wall.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.96,0:05:42.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah we actually forgot to film hard catches
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.20,0:05:44.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the belayer does nothing on this
Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.08,0:05:46.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,test, but no worries this was just a
Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.92,0:05:50.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,small warm-up.\NAnd let's see some bigger falls.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.22,0:05:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this time we started with a
Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.24,0:05:53.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tube slide method,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.88,0:05:56.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which at least in theory, \Nlets the belayer achieve
Dialogue: 0,0:05:56.79,0:05:58.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any full arc.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.70,0:06:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And here is one more attempt
Dialogue: 0,0:06:00.96,0:06:04.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this time with even bigger arc or longer
Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.60,0:06:07.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,braking distance, and the fall was just
Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.80,0:06:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tiny bit softer for the climber. For now
Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.88,0:06:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm just going to keep the softest
Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.64,0:06:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempt in the charts and let's see how
Dialogue: 0,0:06:15.04,0:06:17.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,does that compare to the jumping up
Dialogue: 0,0:06:17.88,0:06:20.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,technique. And we can see that the first
Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.52,0:06:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall was slightly smaller, however it had
Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.48,0:06:27.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nearly identical horizontal acceleration
Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.52,0:06:31.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and velocity. However it also had lower
Dialogue: 0,0:06:31.32,0:06:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,absolute velocity, which is actually
Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.96,0:06:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better for the climber. Now the second
Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.68,0:06:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall was slightly smaller\Nbut had a tiny bit
Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.92,0:06:43.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more horizontal velocity towards the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.80,0:06:46.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and again let's keep the best
Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.24,0:06:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempts of each method and see how does
Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.04,0:06:53.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that compare to the stepping forward technique.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:53.16,0:06:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we can see that the fall
Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.84,0:06:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was smallest however it had the greatest
Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.44,0:07:02.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impact to the wall. Now on the second
Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.60,0:07:05.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempt the belayer did a much better job
Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.92,0:07:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the fall was significantly softer.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:09.56,0:07:11.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if we compare all the best attempts
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.48,0:07:13.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of all the methods, we can see that the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.68,0:07:16.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,horizontal speed at the moment of impact
Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.68,0:07:19.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was nearly identical. Which means that at
Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.88,0:07:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,least in this test case scenario,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:21.76,0:07:24.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a skilled belayer can achieve almost the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.28,0:07:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same results with any method. But since
Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.44,0:07:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,consistency in catches also matters,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.88,0:07:33.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if we compare the worst attempts,\Ntube slide method
Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.44,0:07:35.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was the best, followed by jumping up,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.80,0:07:39.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the stepping forward was the worst.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:39.00,0:07:42.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However even the worst cases of
Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.48,0:07:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any of these methods were much much
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.44,0:07:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better compared to the passive belay.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.28,0:07:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the first arising takeaway was that no
Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.12,0:07:54.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,matter which method you choose to give a
Dialogue: 0,0:07:54.20,0:07:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft catch, it's going to be much better
Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.04,0:07:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than passively standing and doing
Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.96,0:07:59.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.96,0:08:03.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as always one test is no test, so I
Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.28,0:08:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wanted to repeat these tests in a
Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.40,0:08:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different location with another belayer.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.16,0:08:11.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ricky who has also a lot of experience
Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.60,0:08:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,using this tube slide method, and he told
Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.32,0:08:16.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me that it's actually \Nhis preferred method.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.94,0:08:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, high expectations.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.84,0:08:21.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Two, three... \N- Okay
Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.64,0:08:23.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Falling!
Dialogue: 0,0:08:24.13,0:08:26.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Aw, that was super soft!
Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.66,0:08:31.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we did three attempts, and all\Nof them had very similar
Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.95,0:08:35.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,horizontal velocity. \NNice, for consistency.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.79,0:08:38.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Next we tested the stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.24,0:08:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward method and we can see that the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:40.88,0:08:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall was much shorter and had a much
Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.84,0:08:46.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,greater swing into the wall. It seemed
Dialogue: 0,0:08:46.76,0:08:48.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the belayer was pulled towards the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.68,0:08:51.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wall way too much, and did not have enough
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.72,0:08:55.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,control to make the fall smooth.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.38,0:08:58.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.92,0:09:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right next the jumping up method,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.08,0:09:07.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where Ricky actually did a very bad job
Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.20,0:09:08.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the first attempt.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.88,0:09:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the same happened on the
Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.28,0:09:14.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,second attempt where his jump was very
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.68,0:09:17.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minimal only initiated a little bit from
Dialogue: 0,0:09:17.80,0:09:20.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his right calf. So that's not how you
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.68,0:09:23.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jump and that's why I decided to ignore
Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.48,0:09:26.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these two attempts for the poor technique,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.67,0:09:29.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and after he adjusted his technique\Non the third jump,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.92,0:09:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he jumped with both legs\Nand it was much much better.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.48,0:09:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally we did one passive
Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.52,0:09:40.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,catch where the belayer does nothing and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:40.00,0:09:42.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same as before, it causes significantly
Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.56,0:09:45.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,higher swing into the wall. So at least
Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.40,0:09:48.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this test case scenario, tube slide
Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.20,0:09:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was the best, followed by jumping up, and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.40,0:09:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward was again the
Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.08,0:09:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,worst so stepping forward versus uh
Dialogue: 0,0:09:57.00,0:10:01.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up yes stepping forward was not
Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.08,0:10:04.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a controlled way I was just pulled to
Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.36,0:10:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall mm I tried to lean
Dialogue: 0,0:10:07.12,0:10:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,backwards to to break to catch a fall
Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.20,0:10:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it was not in a controll way and
Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.52,0:10:15.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up I can choose how much I want
Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.88,0:10:18.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to jump and at what timing so overall
Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.68,0:10:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which method is the best will heavily
Dialogue: 0,0:10:20.80,0:10:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depend on your experience using this
Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.80,0:10:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,methods however stepping forward seemed
Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.00,0:10:29.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be the worst and gave the least
Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.36,0:10:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,control and also worth mentioning is
Dialogue: 0,0:10:32.16,0:10:35.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that standing too far in many situations
Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.40,0:10:37.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can drag the Blair into the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.84,0:10:40.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely
Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.92,0:10:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uncontrollably okay now was
Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.60,0:10:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like and that would make the catch even
Dialogue: 0,0:10:49.76,0:10:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harder all right but what if the Blair
Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.12,0:10:56.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is significantly heavier in that case if
Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.16,0:10:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you try the jumping method there is not
Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.56,0:11:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much pull up by the rope and jumping is
Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.96,0:11:04.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more difficult so maybe stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.96,0:11:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward is better in this case to test
Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.92,0:11:10.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that kishu suggested to introduce extra
Dialogue: 0,0:11:10.72,0:11:12.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,friction which basically makes the
Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.88,0:11:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blayer
Dialogue: 0,0:11:14.32,0:11:18.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,heavier can we try like this he wants to
Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.04,0:11:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kill me so that's what we got a little
Dialogue: 0,0:11:23.04,0:11:25.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,zigzag in the beginning and then a
Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.96,0:11:29.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,straight line all the way to the climber
Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.04,0:11:31.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so the Rope actually is not going over
Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.56,0:11:35.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the edge it's just very sharp angle you
Dialogue: 0,0:11:35.16,0:11:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have to for sorry he says you have to
Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.64,0:11:41.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall 1 2
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.17,0:11:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:11:43.36,0:11:46.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3 the swing into the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:11:46.88,0:11:48.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is
Dialogue: 0,0:11:48.80,0:11:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okayish so we started with jumping
Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.40,0:11:54.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method which felt slightly harder with
Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.84,0:11:58.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increased friction but still plenty soft
Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.52,0:12:00.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough
Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.12,0:12:02.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah just take a look at this Bel
Dialogue: 0,0:12:02.44,0:12:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,running up the wall and even avoiding
Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.00,0:12:07.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his arm being squished into the first
Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.40,0:12:11.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Quick Draw skills huh so let's see if
Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.16,0:12:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with increased friction stepping forward
Dialogue: 0,0:12:13.92,0:12:16.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be better this time he was not
Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.44,0:12:18.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pulled into the wall uncontrollably
Dialogue: 0,0:12:18.56,0:12:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anymore it also looks like he got the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:21.36,0:12:23.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,perfect timing and even started running
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.96,0:12:27.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward just before they impact however
Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.68,0:12:30.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they swing into the ball for the climber
Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.20,0:12:33.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was still harder compared to the jumping
Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.88,0:12:36.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method okay next we did a series of tube
Dialogue: 0,0:12:36.96,0:12:40.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slight catches the first felt very nice
Dialogue: 0,0:12:40.24,0:12:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and soft now the second fall had even
Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.84,0:12:46.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,softer impact with the wall however I
Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.84,0:12:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still had a lot of momentum downwards
Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.36,0:12:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which forced me almost run down the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:12:52.24,0:12:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is a little bit
Dialogue: 0,0:12:53.68,0:12:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,awkward and the last fall had a very
Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.72,0:12:57.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar
Dialogue: 0,0:12:57.84,0:12:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,effect
Dialogue: 0,0:12:59.44,0:13:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if we look into the best cases for
Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.64,0:13:04.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,each method we can see that jumping up
Dialogue: 0,0:13:04.36,0:13:07.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Tube slide were very very similar
Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.40,0:13:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the stepping forward was slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:13:10.24,0:13:13.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,worse and this bar chart plots all the
Dialogue: 0,0:13:13.12,0:13:16.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Falls so we can see that on average tube
Dialogue: 0,0:13:16.84,0:13:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slide method performed the best followed
Dialogue: 0,0:13:19.52,0:13:22.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by jumping up and then stepping forward
Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.12,0:13:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was the worst now from Pure feeling
Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.28,0:13:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standpoint for me as a climber both
Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.92,0:13:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up and Tube slide methods felt
Dialogue: 0,0:13:30.84,0:13:33.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very nice and soft maybe if I would be
Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.72,0:13:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nitpicking this extra momentum downwards
Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.12,0:13:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes on the tube slide method was
Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.12,0:13:41.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slightly uncomfortable although in
Dialogue: 0,0:13:41.28,0:13:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,theory the blayer should be able to give
Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.68,0:13:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,almost any kind of catch with this
Dialogue: 0,0:13:45.84,0:13:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method and the stepping forward method
Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.04,0:13:51.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was maybe slightly harder had slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:13:51.80,0:13:54.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bigger impact to the wall however it was
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.60,0:13:57.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still plenty soft enough and what is not
Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.80,0:14:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft enough is passive blay so once
Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.76,0:14:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again no matter which soft catch method
Dialogue: 0,0:14:04.40,0:14:07.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we tried it was significantly better
Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.64,0:14:10.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than passive Bay and with added friction
Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.96,0:14:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Bayer wasn't even lifted off the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:13.44,0:14:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ground this time previously when we had
Dialogue: 0,0:14:16.12,0:14:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no friction passive blay looked like
Dialogue: 0,0:14:18.80,0:14:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this the blayer was still pulled up but
Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.32,0:14:25.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now with extra friction that is not the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:25.24,0:14:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,case anymore and you can see how the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:27.12,0:14:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber is being pulled up and into the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:29.88,0:14:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wall even
Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.16,0:14:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harder
Dialogue: 0,0:14:34.84,0:14:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah okay that
Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.48,0:14:42.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was that was the way it was so yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:14:42.12,0:14:44.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't forget to subscribe I might need
Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.84,0:14:47.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,advertisement money to fix my broken
Dialogue: 0,0:14:47.40,0:14:51.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,body at old age so what's your favorite
Dialogue: 0,0:14:51.64,0:14:54.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method yeah jumping up jumping up yes
Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.76,0:14:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mhm okay so we were leaning towards
Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.96,0:15:00.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping as our favorite meth foot but
Dialogue: 0,0:15:00.40,0:15:03.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what if the blayer is really really
Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.16,0:15:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,heavy or there is so much friction in
Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.40,0:15:08.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the system that the Rope Almost Doesn't
Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.12,0:15:12.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull the Blair up in that case you can
Dialogue: 0,0:15:12.96,0:15:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jump I don't know what 30 40 cm maybe 50
Dialogue: 0,0:15:17.84,0:15:21.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're a crazy athlete but is that
Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.08,0:15:23.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough for the soft catch and this
Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.68,0:15:26.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brings us to this experiment here we did
Dialogue: 0,0:15:26.08,0:15:28.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a series of false alternating between
Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.68,0:15:31.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward and jumping up and we
Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.40,0:15:34.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measured the forces to the climber and
Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.12,0:15:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same as before jumping up was
Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.40,0:15:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,consistently better than stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.48,0:15:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward and doing nothing was
Dialogue: 0,0:15:40.88,0:15:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,significantly worse and then we decided
Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.36,0:15:46.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to introduce this zigzag in the rout and
Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.36,0:15:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,although it doesn't look like much it
Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.28,0:15:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually added a ton of friction
Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.24,0:15:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basically imitating a very heavy blay
Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.32,0:16:01.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what wa I couldn't jump at all and as I
Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.32,0:16:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was expecting jumping up was not working
Dialogue: 0,0:16:04.48,0:16:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at all in this case so let's see if
Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.28,0:16:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward is going to be better 2
Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.00,0:16:14.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,1 wow that was
Dialogue: 0,0:16:14.28,0:16:16.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,solid
Dialogue: 0,0:16:16.40,0:16:22.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2.5 oh [ __ ] Z and it actually was even
Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.04,0:16:25.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,worse man I cannot give you a soft catch
Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.84,0:16:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this way so yeah no matter how much I
Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.56,0:16:31.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Tri to jump I was not able to give a
Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.56,0:16:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,truly soft catch and stepping forward
Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.28,0:16:35.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was even
Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.96,0:16:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,worse it's impossible to give a soft
Dialogue: 0,0:16:38.56,0:16:41.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,catch like this to time well the
Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.40,0:16:44.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward and such a short fall
Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.44,0:16:48.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is nearly impossible yeah now while it
Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.56,0:16:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,seemed that heavy blers are doomed on
Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.60,0:16:53.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this next experiment I actually
Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.84,0:16:56.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,discovered something that helps this
Dialogue: 0,0:16:56.68,0:16:59.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time I was belaying a light girl and as
Dialogue: 0,0:16:59.80,0:17:02.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before I was also struggling to give a
Dialogue: 0,0:17:02.36,0:17:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft catch the jumping simply did not
Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.48,0:17:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work and neither did the stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.28,0:17:14.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward method but then I discovered
Dialogue: 0,0:17:15.16,0:17:20.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,something better better this one was
Dialogue: 0,0:17:21.08,0:17:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft yes it's soft so yeah turns out
Dialogue: 0,0:17:25.92,0:17:28.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that bending Den KN will give you more
Dialogue: 0,0:17:28.04,0:17:30.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,range of movement and in this test case
Dialogue: 0,0:17:30.80,0:17:34.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scenario it made a huge difference it
Dialogue: 0,0:17:34.04,0:17:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall
Dialogue: 0,0:17:36.44,0:17:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was just super soft and the others was
Dialogue: 0,0:17:39.92,0:17:44.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,boom like boom yeah yeah yeah so it's Bo
Dialogue: 0,0:17:44.84,0:17:48.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,versus and we prefer wo you prefer woo
Dialogue: 0,0:17:48.64,0:17:51.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah yeah and although I already
Dialogue: 0,0:17:51.44,0:17:53.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mentioned this in the first episode but
Dialogue: 0,0:17:53.32,0:17:56.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's really important to stress that
Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.08,0:17:59.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simply throwing a lot of Slack does not
Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.32,0:18:03.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mean a soft catch
Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.12,0:18:09.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay this [ __ ] and in a case of a
Dialogue: 0,0:18:09.32,0:18:12.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,passive Bay can end up very badly and
Dialogue: 0,0:18:12.60,0:18:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the only reason she was fine in this
Dialogue: 0,0:18:14.88,0:18:17.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,case was because she was falling
Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.28,0:18:20.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,straight down under the Quick Draw so
Dialogue: 0,0:18:20.04,0:18:22.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all she felt was just a jerk to the
Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.52,0:18:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harness in a different situation with a
Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.36,0:18:28.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit of swing that kind of catch
Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.20,0:18:31.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with would probably break her ankles so
Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.56,0:18:33.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead of feeding a ton of slack for
Dialogue: 0,0:18:33.72,0:18:36.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your climber maybe you should feed your
Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.96,0:18:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber and as we saw If the fall is
Dialogue: 0,0:18:39.36,0:18:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,small bending the knees before the fall
Dialogue: 0,0:18:42.16,0:18:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,might help now in case of a big whipper
Dialogue: 0,0:18:45.28,0:18:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall naturally is much bigger so you
Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.08,0:18:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will have more time to go down and
Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.48,0:18:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,explode up and from B mechanical
Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.80,0:18:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standpoint since our muscles act as
Dialogue: 0,0:18:55.12,0:18:58.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Springs going down and jumping up should
Dialogue: 0,0:18:58.44,0:19:01.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,result into a higher jump now if that
Dialogue: 0,0:19:01.20,0:19:03.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't help I would suggest more food
Dialogue: 0,0:19:03.64,0:19:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cycles and if that's not an option then
Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.48,0:19:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I've seen a method used by a very heavy
Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.96,0:19:11.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Blair which worked very well for him
Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.40,0:19:14.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where he took a little bit of slack with
Dialogue: 0,0:19:14.60,0:19:18.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his lead hand and during the impact he
Dialogue: 0,0:19:18.04,0:19:22.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,used his lead hand to soften the
Dialogue: 0,0:19:22.52,0:19:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,catch it is extremely important to not
Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.00,0:19:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have too much slack here or you will
Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.88,0:19:31.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,burn your hand so be smart and use this
Dialogue: 0,0:19:31.60,0:19:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at your own risk this is sketchy but
Dialogue: 0,0:19:34.56,0:19:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I've seen it working really well or
Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.68,0:19:39.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,alternatively go old school and learn
Dialogue: 0,0:19:39.16,0:19:41.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how to use tube style BL then it doesn't
Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.92,0:19:43.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,matter what's the weight of the climber
Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.80,0:19:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can always make a soft catch but of
Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.40,0:19:48.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,course that comes with its own risks of
Dialogue: 0,0:19:48.76,0:19:51.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not having assisted blade device but for
Dialogue: 0,0:19:51.48,0:19:53.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,majority of you jumping up is going to
Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.72,0:19:56.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be the best and if for whatever reason
Dialogue: 0,0:19:56.52,0:19:58.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you find yourself away from the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:19:58.60,0:20:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then just do stepping forward as we saw
Dialogue: 0,0:20:01.96,0:20:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whatever soft catch method is much
Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.48,0:20:06.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better than passive delay now I
Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.68,0:20:08.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,understand that this video was full of
Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.28,0:20:10.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,charts and graphs and chances are if
Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.84,0:20:12.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're still watching you're a little
Dialogue: 0,0:20:12.28,0:20:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bit nerdy however I'm going to make a
Dialogue: 0,0:20:14.80,0:20:17.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,separate video for my blay Master Class
Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.32,0:20:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I will go more on practical
Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.36,0:20:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,details including those sketchy low to
Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.32,0:20:25.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the ground situations and also during
Dialogue: 0,0:20:25.08,0:20:27.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these two years we have measured forces
Dialogue: 0,0:20:27.20,0:20:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on hundred of Falls so we have a lot of
Dialogue: 0,0:20:30.16,0:20:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,data but as I explained in previous
Dialogue: 0,0:20:32.12,0:20:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episodes Peak Force to the climber might
Dialogue: 0,0:20:34.84,0:20:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not be the most important factor for
Dialogue: 0,0:20:37.12,0:20:38.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sport
Dialogue: 0,0:20:38.24,0:20:41.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbers however that might be much more
Dialogue: 0,0:20:41.08,0:20:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,important for TR climbers keep a good
Dialogue: 0,0:20:47.20,0:20:50.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,eye [ __ ] so I guess this deserves an
Dialogue: 0,0:20:50.84,0:20:53.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode for trout climbers as well and
Dialogue: 0,0:20:53.48,0:20:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all of these people and supporters
Dialogue: 0,0:20:55.64,0:20:58.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deserve a huge thank you none of this
Dialogue: 0,0:20:58.28,0:21:00.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,project would been possible without all
Dialogue: 0,0:21:00.40,0:21:03.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of you and you deserve some
Dialogue: 0,0:21:03.56,0:21:06.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,knowledge for the last 6 months I was
Dialogue: 0,0:21:06.20,0:21:09.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,warming up my brain in the mornings with
Dialogue: 0,0:21:09.00,0:21:12.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brilliant.org which is an awesome online
Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.04,0:21:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,platform for learning math data science
Dialogue: 0,0:21:14.88,0:21:17.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and computer science
Dialogue: 0,0:21:17.56,0:21:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interactively good morning Ben how are
Dialogue: 0,0:21:19.60,0:21:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you ah feeling like Quan in for
Dialogue: 0,0:21:22.08,0:21:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dimensional space with emotions twisting
Dialogue: 0,0:21:24.44,0:21:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like meus transformation and my mood
Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.96,0:21:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,transforming like like ien vector so not
Dialogue: 0,0:21:29.88,0:21:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only you get deeper connections with
Dialogue: 0,0:21:31.92,0:21:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your smart friends you also deepen your
Dialogue: 0,0:21:34.44,0:21:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scientific understanding of the world
Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.64,0:21:39.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just imagine how your regular life
Dialogue: 0,0:21:39.32,0:21:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problems will look when you will be
Dialogue: 0,0:21:41.44,0:21:44.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,contemplating that we are all just
Dialogue: 0,0:21:44.08,0:21:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,riding a giant rock through constantly
Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.12,0:21:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,expanding space with supernovas and
Dialogue: 0,0:21:50.32,0:21:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,solar winds or maybe before human
Dialogue: 0,0:21:53.36,0:21:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thinking becomes obsolete write a short
Dialogue: 0,0:21:57.00,0:22:02.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,math point poem in a style of me you
Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.12,0:22:05.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,want to know how Chad GPT works so
Dialogue: 0,0:22:05.04,0:22:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whenever you're are a complete beginner
Dialogue: 0,0:22:06.88,0:22:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or ready to dive into machine learning
Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.20,0:22:11.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Beyond brilliant.org makes it easy
Dialogue: 0,0:22:11.88,0:22:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to level up fast with fun bite-sized
Dialogue: 0,0:22:14.96,0:22:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lessons and you can try all of this
Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.20,0:22:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely for free for 30 days by
Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.60,0:22:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,visiting brilliant.org heart disey and
Dialogue: 0,0:22:22.80,0:22:26.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first 200 of you can also get 20% off
Dialogue: 0,0:22:26.12,0:22:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their annual premium subscription
Dialogue: 0,0:22:28.52,0:22:31.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so thank you brilliant for making sure
Dialogue: 0,0:22:31.72,0:22:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we still use our brain and thank
Dialogue: 0,0:22:34.28,0:22:37.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you for watching enjoy your brain and
Dialogue: 0,0:22:37.08,0:22:40.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing and see you in the next one now
Dialogue: 0,0:22:40.12,0:22:44.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's going to be fun feeling like
Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.24,0:22:49.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,qu that word