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I started life as a fashion designer,
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working closely with textile designers
and fabric suppliers.
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But today, I can no longer see
or talk to my new collaborators,
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because they're in the soil
beneath our feet,
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on the shelves of our supermarkets
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and in the beer I'm going to drink
when I finish this talk.
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I'm talking about microbes
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and designing with life.
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Fifteen years ago,
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I completely changed
both what I worked with
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and how I worked,
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after a revelatory collaboration
with a biologist.
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Our project gave me
a different perspective on life,
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introducing a whole new
world of possibility
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around how we can design and make things.
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I discovered a radical
manufacturing proposition:
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biofabrication.
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Literally, fabricating with biology.
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What does that mean?
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Well, instead of processing
plants, animals or oil
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to make consumer materials,
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we might grow materials directly
with living organisms.
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In what many are terming
"the Fourth Industrial Revolution,"
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we're thinking about the new factories
as being living cells.
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Bacteria, algae, fungi, yeast:
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our latest design tools
include those of biotechnology.
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My own journey in biofabrication
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started with a project
called "Biocouture."
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The provocation was that instead
of growing a plant, like cotton,
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in a field over several months,
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we could use microbes to grow
a similar cellulose material in a lab
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in a few days.
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Using a certain species of bacteria
in a nutrient-rich liquid,
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we fermented threads of cellulose
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that self-organized
into a sheet of fabric.
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I dried the fabric I had grown
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and cut and sewed it
into a range of garments, shoes and bags.
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In other words,
in one lab we grew materials
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and turned them into a range of products
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in a matter of days.
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And this is in contrast
to currents methods of fabric production,
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where a plant is grown,
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just the cotton part is harvested,
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processed into a yarn,
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woven into a fabric
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and then potentially shipped across oceans
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before being cut and sewn into a garment.
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All of that can take months.
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So these prototypes indicated a field
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offering significant
resource efficiencies.
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From reducing the water,
energy and chemistry needed
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in the production of a material,
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through to generating zero waste,
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we grew fabrics to finished form --
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if you like, "biological
additive manufacture."
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Through biofabrication,
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I had replaced many
intensive man-made steps
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with one biological step.
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And as I engaged with this living system,
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it transformed my design thinking.
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Here was biology,
with no intervention from me
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other than designing initial
conditions for growth,
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efficiently producing a useful,
sustainable material.
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So now I can't help but see all materials
through the lens of biofabrication.
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In fact, there's a growing
global community of innovators
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rethinking materials with biology.
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Multiple companies are now
growing mushroom materials,
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but not literally mushrooms --
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using mycelium, which is
the root system of fungi,
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to bind together agricultural byproducts.
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It's a process that's been
described as "nature's glue."
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A common way to do this
is to take a 3-D mold,
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fill it with a waste crop
like corn stalks or hemp,
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add water,
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wait a few days for the mycelium
to grow throughout,
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remove the mold,
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and you're left with a grown 3-D form.
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Incredibly, we can grow
all kinds of structures
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using living organisms,
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from foams that can replace
plastics in footwear,
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to leather-like materials without animals.
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Furniture, flooring -- all
are currently being prototyped.
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Fungi are able to grow materials
that are naturally fire retardant,
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without any chemicals.
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They're naturally hydrophobic,
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meaning they won't absorb water.
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They have higher melt
temperatures than plastics.
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Polystyrene can take thousands
of years to degrade.
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Mushroom packaging materials
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can be naturally composted
in your back garden,
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in as little as 30 days.
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Living organisms are transforming waste
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into cost-competitive,
performance-matching materials
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that can start to replace plastics
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and other CO2-emitting materials.
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And once we start growing materials
with living organisms,
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it starts to make previous methods
of manufacture seem illogical.
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Take the humble house brick.
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The cement industry generates
around eight percent
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of global CO2 emissions.
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That's more than all the planes
and ships each year.
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The cement process
requires materials to be fired in a kiln
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at over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Compare this to bioMASON.
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They use a soil microbe
to transform loose aggregates,
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like sand or crushed stone,
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into a biofabricated, or biocement, brick.
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Their process happens at room temperature,
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in just a couple of days.
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Think hydroponics for bricks.
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An irrigation system
feeds nutrient-rich water
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to trays of bricks
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that have been inoculated with bacteria.
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The bacteria produce crystals
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that form around each grain of sand,
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locking together all the loose particles
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to form a solid brick.
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We can now grow construction materials
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in the elegant way nature does,
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just like a coral reef.
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And these biofabricated bricks
are nearly three times stronger
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than a concrete block.
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And in stark contrast
to traditional cement production,
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they store more carbon than they make.
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So if we could replace
the 1.2 trillion fired bricks
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that are made each year
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with biofabricated bricks,
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we could reduce CO2 emissions
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by 800 million tons every year.
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(Applause)
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Beyond growing materials
with living organisms,
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we're even starting to design products
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that encourage their growth.
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And this comes from the realization
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that the very thing we've been trying
to marginalize -- life --
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might actually be
our greatest collaborator.
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To that end, we've been
exploring all the ways
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that we can grow healthy microbes
in our own ecosystems.
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A great example of this is architects
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who are imagining the skin of a building
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to function like the bark of a tree.
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But not as a cosmetic green layer.
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They're designing architectural barks
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as hosts for evolving ecologies.
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These surface structures
are designed to invite life in.
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And if we applied the same energy
we currently do suppressing forms of life
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towards cultivating life,
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we'd turn the negative image
of the urban jungle
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into one that literally embodies
a thriving, living ecosystem.
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By actively encouraging surface
interactions with healthy microbes,
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we could improve passive climate control,
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stormwater management,
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and even reduce CO2 emissions
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by lowering the energy
used to heat or cool our buildings.
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We're just beginning
to realize the potential
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of nature-based technologies.
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I'm excited that we're starting
to design and biofabricate
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a new material world.
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It's one that moves away
from the exploitation
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of nonrenewable resources
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to working with the original,
renewable life.
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Instead of designing out life,
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we're designing with it and for it.
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Packaging, fashion, footwear,
furniture, construction --
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biofabricated products can be grown
close to centers of demand,
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with local resources, less land, energy,
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and even harnessing
industrial waste streams.
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It used to be that the tools
of biotechnology
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were the preserve of powerful,
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multinational chemical
and biotech companies.
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In the last century,
we expected material innovation
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to come from the likes
of DuPont, Dow, BASF.
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But this 21st-century material revolution
is being led by start-ups
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with small teams and limited capital.
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And by the way, not all their founders
have science degrees.
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They include artists,
architects and designers.
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Over a billion dollars
has already been invested
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in start-ups biofabricating
consumer products.
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I don't think we have a choice
but to biofabricate our future.
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From the jacket you're wearing
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to the chair you're sitting in
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to the home you live in,
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your designed material world
shouldn't compromise your health
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or that of our planet.
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If materials can't be recycled
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or naturally composted at home,
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we should reject them.
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I'm committed to making
this future a reality
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by shining a light on all the amazing work
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being done today
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and by facilitating more interactions
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between designers, scientists,
investors and brands.
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Because we need a material revolution,
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and we need it now.
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Thank you.
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(Applause)