## Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know

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it says kilo newtons
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and after this video you will have much
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better understanding than probably 99
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of the rest of the climbers what these
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kilonewtons
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actually mean and what forces are
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involved in real climbing falls
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and then i will explain why big big
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whippers
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are often much softer than small falls
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but first let's find out what is force
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i like to play with my instagram
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followers so i decided to ask them
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what comes to their mind when we hear a
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word
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force half of the people said that it
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has something to do with star wars
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fair enough and then before you start
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thinking that
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half of my instagram followers are
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really smart
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i have to say that majority of them
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didn't vote it at all
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so i imagined something like what is
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force
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[Music]
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okay but those who wanted to sound smart
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said that
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force is mass times acceleration which
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is the formula that newton
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this guy came up with and that's why we
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measure
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force in newtons which to me is a little
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bit funny when you think about it
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imagine newton
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[Music]
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so we measure mass in kilograms
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and we measure acceleration
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in meters per second squared
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and we should measure force
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in newtons
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so to put this formula into perspective
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it's like
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one newton this guy is pushing
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one kilogram of mass and that
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makes that mass to accelerate by one
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meter per second
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every second so here i have a carabiner
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and if i put all my weight on it
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like so the question is what's the force
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right now into this carabiner
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so if we look back to the formula we can
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say that
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mass is my mass multiplied by
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acceleration what acceleration i'm
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hanging on a tree there is no
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movement no acceleration or
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is there an acceleration
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okay so you've probably seen this
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experiment before
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i have heavy object and a light object
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and the question is if i let go both of
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them at the same time
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which one is going to hit the ground
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first
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let's try
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[Music]
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so yes we fell at the same time because
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that's what gravity does it makes
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objects fall at exactly the same
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acceleration of 9.8 meters per second
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per second
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[Music]
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so when i'm hanging on this carabiner
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gravity is pulling me down
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but in order for me to not move down
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there must be
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opposite force which would be pulling me
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up
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here i have a spring while the gravity
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is pulling the rock down the spring is
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pulling the rock
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up so the carabiner is actually like a
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very very stiff spring
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which is pulling me up the molecules of
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the carabiner when i'm hanging on it
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are being spread apart but they like to
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stay together so we kind of
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pull back you can't see this expansion
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of the quick draw on low forces
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but you can on big ones
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and so it turns out that this carabiner
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has to accelerate
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my weight up at the same 9.8 meters per
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second
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squared which turns out to be about 600
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newtons
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yep 600 of these need to
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hold one skinny guy like me
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[ __ ]
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okay moving on this quick draw says
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that it can hold up to 26 kilonewtons
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kilonewton is basically a thousand
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newtons
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so it means that it could hold about
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40 me i wish i would have a clone
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machine so i could
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demonstrate this to you
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and then imagine how many videos all of
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this
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me could create
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[Music]
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so if you want to see us create more
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videos like this
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click the join button it really helps
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and i promise i will spend every single
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penny i get from you guys
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on buying a clone machine
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okay so you can hang 40 me
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on one single carabiner that's pretty
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impressive
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although there are things that you must
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know first of all
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all of these ratings are for new
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equipment
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wear and tear does not go into that
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rating
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how bad is that well i asked my friend
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ryan from youtube channel how not to
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highline because he has a hobby
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of breaking stuff and according to his
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tests most of the metals tend to last
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pretty well
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although with soft things things are
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totally different black diamond sling
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with a
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22 kilonewton mbs
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what what was the mbs on is 22
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kilonewtons yeah
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yep a sling rated at 22 kilonewtons
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broke at six and here's another one
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that's a great condition would not whip
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no not whip i would tie my dog to this
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though
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all right i wouldn't tie a very big dog
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to that
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hold on let's see how big of a dog could
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you have tied
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with this oh uh
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chihuahua yeah so if you're one of these
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people who like to save money
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and use very old worn down slings
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good luck 24 kilonewtons
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that did not stretch that much oh i
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guess
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guess four kilonewtons
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what z [ __ ] man 4
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000 newtons okay how much does
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such sling can hold well that's pretty
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easy just divide 4 000 newtons by
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9.8 or if you want easier by 10
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and you get 400 kilograms
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that sounds quite a lot no 400 kilograms
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well all of these conversions from
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force to kilograms that i have been
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talking so far
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are based on the fact that the weight is
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hanging statically
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once the thing starts falling everything
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changes
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so what you have just seen is a clip
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from dmm
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where they dropped 80 kilograms of mass
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and that broke a brand new dyneema sling
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now my goal is not to scare you it's the
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opposite i want to bring the awareness
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that climbing gear is
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not magic and if you use it incorrectly
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it might fail
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fun fact do you know this joke that
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climbers like to say when they fail on
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their climbs
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but today is a high gravity day
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well turns out that's true gravity does
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change from month to month
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so if you are one of those people who
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like to complain that
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today is a bad humidity or bad
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temperature now you have a right to
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complain that today is a bad gravity day
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yay okay let's see what happens when
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objects like us climbers start
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falling
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that was a 10 meters fall
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let's see how much force such fall would
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generate to the climber
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the formula for that would be similar to
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what we had before
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except that we need to multiply this by
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the distance the climber was
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falling and divide by the distance the
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climber was slowing
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down
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and did you actually notice how soft the
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fall for the climber was
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so imagine driving a car in the highway
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and pressing on the brake gently
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while you come to a stop no problems
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right
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now imagine you're not driving so fast
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you're in a city you're
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driving slowly but you slam on a brick
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that would not feel very nice right
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so here is the first thing i want you to
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remember out of this video
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the impact to the climber will always be
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the product of the distance the climber
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was falling
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divided by the distance of the slowdown
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phase
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so let's calculate the falling distance
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four quick draws and the slow down
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distance
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was about two and a half quickdraws and
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we get about 860 newtons
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or if we would replace her with a
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standard 80 kilogram climber
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that would be about 1.3
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kilonewtons which is not much although
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this formula has a little problem
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because it will always give you
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the value which is slightly lower than
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it would be in
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real life but showing you how to
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calculate more precisely would mean that
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most of you would probably just leave
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this video right here
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but we don't need to do that because we
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can rely on real life
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experimental data and who is the boss at
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providing such data for us
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hi i'm ryan jinx and and that's enough
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what we did in this video they put a
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device measuring the force on the
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climber
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and made a series of falls
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[Music]
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that puts me in 1.87
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so most of the falls that in my opinion
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would be a good delaying example
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where below 2 kilonewtons now let's take
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a look at these two
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extreme examples climber on the left is
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5 meters above the bolt
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so that would be 10 meters full plus the
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slack in the system
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the belayer probably has about one meter
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of slack
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and then there is probably one more
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meter of slack
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in between the quick draws so in total
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we are looking at
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12 meters fall while climber on the
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right is only one meter above the bolt
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and let's say that the belayer is really
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afraid and he's going to give a very
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hard catch for the climber
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so we are looking at 2 meters fall
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so a massive 12 meters fall or a small
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2 meters fall which one do you think is
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gonna be softer for the climber
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well let's see we know how much the
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climbers will fall but now we need to
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find out the
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slow down distances for both of the
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cases
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and that depends mainly on two things
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first
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is the displacement of the belayer on a
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big big whipper
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the belayer will probably fly about 2
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meters
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while on a small fall let's assume very
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common mistake for beginners
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where the belayer just takes the slack
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out and delays very hard
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and the second factor is the stretch of
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the rope
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rope manufacturers claim that if you put
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80 kilogram
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mass on a dynamic rope statically
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like so without movement the rope will
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stretch
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10 percent and dynamic stretch when you
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take elite fall
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is up to 30 percent well
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up to 30 percent is not very helpful for
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us what we need to know
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is the stretch of this rope from two to
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four kilonewtons force that's where the
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and yet again i was texting ryan so i'm
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gonna pull
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some dynamic rope to see how much it
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stretches at first we thought it's gonna
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be very easy just go to the park stretch
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the rope to different forces
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and measure the elongation of the rope
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well sometimes easy is
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hard when you stretch the rope to
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certain force and leave it there
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the force will start dropping on the
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rope the rope kind of just
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gives up while this is very interesting
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it's not critical for us
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the only thing he needed to do is to
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pull the rope as fast as he can to
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desired force
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and measure the stretch okay
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oh my god that's the seven mark
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6.9 meters
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it stretches when you pull it a dynamic
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rope
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to four kilonewtons but then there is
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another interesting factor
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once you load the rope to high forces it
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takes
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some time for the rope to get back to
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its original length
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this is what's known as rope resting and
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it was really cool to see this in action
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see the graveyard getting pulled back
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slowly
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super interesting probably way more
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interesting
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to me than it is to you right now so
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after he spent like four hours in the
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park pulling the ropes
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the results were that on forces from two
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to four kilonewtons
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the rope stretched to about 20 percent
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great so let's use that in our
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calculations
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on a big fall we have 27 meters of rope
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in total
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so that would be 5.4 meters of stretch
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while in a small fall we have 5 meters
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of rope
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and that would be 1 meter of stretch
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however our belayer is panicking and
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taking heart
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so he will take half of that stretch for
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himself
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leaving only half a meter of stretch for
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the climber
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and tadam the big big whipper
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will be two and a half times softer for
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the climber than a small fall
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oh i love fun facts here's another one
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imagine that you were climbing
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and failed but humidity was good
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temperature was good even the gravity
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was good that day
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you can still blame the moon negligibly
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but truly you weigh about a millionth of
• 15:35 - 15:36
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less when the moon is directly above you
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so if you want to send
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climb when the moon is directly above
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you
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you're welcome i remember i was
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projecting this really long route of
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35 meters and the first time i managed
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to link all the cruxes and arrive at the
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anchor
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the moment when i was pulling the rope
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up to clip the anchor
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my belayer couldn't see me very well so
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he just gave me a lot of slack
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and on top of that the bolt before the
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anchor
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was really far really ran out
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so while i was dragging the rope up i
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lost my balance
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and took a fall the wall is flying in
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front of me and i'm thinking why i'm
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still
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falling this is unusual when i stopped
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and looked up it was maybe five or six
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quick draws above me probably about
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15 meters of fall but
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the fall was super soft it's like riding
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an
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elevator so here is another takeaway out
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of this video
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if the climber is really high up he has
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a lot of rope to absorb the fall
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so as long as he doesn't fall onto
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something
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the fall will be soft no matter how you
• 16:48 - 16:49
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however if the climber is not so high he
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doesn't have so much rope to absorb the
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fall
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then soft dynamic bling is really
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important and you can ask any light
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climber how many times we had their
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ankles
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broken due to hard catches okay let's
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switch gears a little bit let's talk
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friction because the more friction you
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have
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the harder the fall for the climber will
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be
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and here is very extreme example of that
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as you can see right here
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we z dragged it and so we're gonna have
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a lot of friction
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when i fall for science
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so when you have a lot of friction the
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rope close to the climber
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stretches normally but the rope closer
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to belayer
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doesn't stretch that much it's like
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having shorter rope and heavier belayer
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at the same time
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and although the force to the harness
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was only two and a half kilonewtons
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a lot of the force went pendulum into
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the wall
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and that's how we break ankles so
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extending the quickdraws not only helps
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you to clip and avoid situations like
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this
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but also reduces the impact forces for
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the climbers
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ok let's circle back to dmm test
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breaking the sling the nema slings are
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very static they don't stretch
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at all and i hope that by now you
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understand that this sudden stop can
• 18:33 - 18:33
create a
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huge forces if not ask somebody to slap
• 18:37 - 18:38
you
• 18:38 - 18:40
this stop on the face will be basically
• 18:40 - 18:42
what you need to understand so
• 18:42 - 18:45
let's make a very wild and probably very
• 18:45 - 18:46
inaccurate guess
• 18:46 - 18:49
but this sling would stretch to about 5
• 18:49 - 18:53
centimeters so if we drop 80 kilograms
• 18:53 - 18:54
of mass
• 18:54 - 18:58
the distance of 120 centimeters
• 18:58 - 19:01
and the absorption distance is only 5
• 19:01 - 19:02
centimeters
• 19:02 - 19:06
we are looking at 19 kilo newtons
• 19:06 - 19:09
if that is not gonna break the sling
• 19:09 - 19:11
it's definitely gonna break
• 19:11 - 19:14
you whoa if you're still watching that
• 19:14 - 19:16
probably means that you should be
• 19:16 - 19:19
at least a little bit geeky so here is a
• 19:19 - 19:21
dessert for you
• 19:21 - 19:24
there is no gravity yeah
• 19:24 - 19:27
objects don't attract each other there
• 19:27 - 19:27
is
• 19:27 - 19:30
only space time you feel as though
• 19:30 - 19:31
you're being pushed
• 19:31 - 19:33
into the ground not because of a force
• 19:33 - 19:34
called gravity
• 19:34 - 19:36
but because time is moving faster for
• 19:36 - 19:37
• 19:37 - 19:40
than for your feet this and all the
• 19:40 - 19:42
other resources that i use to create
• 19:42 - 19:43
this video
• 19:43 - 19:45
will be in the description and now
• 19:45 - 19:46
• 19:46 - 19:48
send some love to ryan for providing me
• 19:48 - 19:51
with all of his experimental data that i
• 19:51 - 19:52
used in this video
• 19:52 - 19:55
so don't forget to subscribe and support
• 19:55 - 19:57
our channels if you want to see more
• 19:57 - 19:58
content like this
• 19:58 - 20:02
click join
Title:
Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know
Description:

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
20:00
 Николай Н. Косовский published English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know Николай Н. Косовский published English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know Amara Bot edited English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know Amara Bot edited English subtitles for Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know

# English subtitles

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