0:00:01.599,0:00:04.799
it says kilo newtons

0:00:04.799,0:00:07.839
and after this video you will have much

0:00:07.839,0:00:11.040
better understanding than probably 99

0:00:11.040,0:00:13.360
of the rest of the climbers what these

0:00:13.360,0:00:14.320
kilonewtons

0:00:14.320,0:00:17.680
actually mean and what forces are

0:00:17.680,0:00:20.320
involved in real climbing falls

0:00:20.320,0:00:22.640
and then i will explain why big big

0:00:22.640,0:00:23.600
whippers

0:00:23.600,0:00:26.960
are often much softer than small falls

0:00:26.960,0:00:30.160
but first let's find out what is force

0:00:30.160,0:00:31.840
i like to play with my instagram

0:00:31.840,0:00:34.480
followers so i decided to ask them

0:00:34.480,0:00:37.200
what comes to their mind when we hear a

0:00:37.200,0:00:37.920
word

0:00:37.920,0:00:40.320
force half of the people said that it

0:00:40.320,0:00:43.280
has something to do with star wars

0:00:43.280,0:00:45.920
fair enough and then before you start

0:00:45.920,0:00:46.960
thinking that

0:00:46.960,0:00:49.280
half of my instagram followers are

0:00:49.280,0:00:50.480
really smart

0:00:50.480,0:00:52.399
i have to say that majority of them

0:00:52.399,0:00:53.760
didn't vote it at all

0:00:53.760,0:00:57.360
so i imagined something like what is

0:00:57.360,0:00:58.170
force

0:00:58.170,0:01:00.480
[Music]

0:01:00.480,0:01:03.120
okay but those who wanted to sound smart

0:01:03.120,0:01:04.000
said that

0:01:04.000,0:01:07.200
force is mass times acceleration which

0:01:07.200,0:01:09.119
is the formula that newton

0:01:09.119,0:01:12.159
this guy came up with and that's why we

0:01:12.159,0:01:12.640
measure

0:01:12.640,0:01:15.280
force in newtons which to me is a little

0:01:15.280,0:01:17.119
bit funny when you think about it

0:01:17.119,0:01:19.110
imagine newton

0:01:19.110,0:01:22.240
[Music]

0:01:22.240,0:01:26.960
so we measure mass in kilograms

0:01:26.960,0:01:30.880
and we measure acceleration

0:01:30.880,0:01:35.200
in meters per second squared

0:01:35.200,0:01:38.880
and we should measure force

0:01:38.880,0:01:41.920
in newtons

0:01:42.799,0:01:45.600
so to put this formula into perspective

0:01:45.600,0:01:46.240
it's like

0:01:46.240,0:01:49.680
one newton this guy is pushing

0:01:49.680,0:01:52.720
one kilogram of mass and that

0:01:52.720,0:01:55.840
makes that mass to accelerate by one

0:01:55.840,0:01:57.520
meter per second

0:01:57.520,0:02:01.360
every second so here i have a carabiner

0:02:01.360,0:02:04.880
and if i put all my weight on it

0:02:04.880,0:02:08.239
like so the question is what's the force

0:02:08.239,0:02:10.000
right now into this carabiner

0:02:10.000,0:02:12.879
so if we look back to the formula we can

0:02:12.879,0:02:13.680
say that

0:02:13.680,0:02:17.599
mass is my mass multiplied by

0:02:17.599,0:02:20.560
acceleration what acceleration i'm

0:02:20.560,0:02:22.319
hanging on a tree there is no

0:02:22.319,0:02:25.360
movement no acceleration or

0:02:25.360,0:02:28.959
is there an acceleration

0:02:29.760,0:02:32.080
okay so you've probably seen this

0:02:32.080,0:02:33.599
experiment before

0:02:33.599,0:02:37.360
i have heavy object and a light object

0:02:37.360,0:02:39.760
and the question is if i let go both of

0:02:39.760,0:02:41.440
them at the same time

0:02:41.440,0:02:43.360
which one is going to hit the ground

0:02:43.360,0:02:45.040
first

0:02:45.040,0:02:51.840
let's try

0:02:53.480,0:02:55.760
[Music]

0:02:55.760,0:02:58.800
so yes we fell at the same time because

0:02:58.800,0:03:00.560
that's what gravity does it makes

0:03:00.560,0:03:03.440
objects fall at exactly the same

0:03:03.440,0:03:06.879
acceleration of 9.8 meters per second

0:03:06.879,0:03:08.160
per second

0:03:08.160,0:03:11.250
[Music]

0:03:15.680,0:03:18.400
so when i'm hanging on this carabiner

0:03:18.400,0:03:20.239
gravity is pulling me down

0:03:20.239,0:03:23.200
but in order for me to not move down

0:03:23.200,0:03:24.080
there must be

0:03:24.080,0:03:26.720
opposite force which would be pulling me

0:03:26.720,0:03:27.200
up

0:03:27.200,0:03:30.640
here i have a spring while the gravity

0:03:30.640,0:03:33.519
is pulling the rock down the spring is

0:03:33.519,0:03:34.640
pulling the rock

0:03:34.640,0:03:37.280
up so the carabiner is actually like a

0:03:37.280,0:03:39.120
very very stiff spring

0:03:39.120,0:03:42.080
which is pulling me up the molecules of

0:03:42.080,0:03:44.159
the carabiner when i'm hanging on it

0:03:44.159,0:03:46.799
are being spread apart but they like to

0:03:46.799,0:03:48.560
stay together so we kind of

0:03:48.560,0:03:51.599
pull back you can't see this expansion

0:03:51.599,0:03:54.080
of the quick draw on low forces

0:03:54.080,0:04:01.840
but you can on big ones

0:04:02.080,0:04:04.799
and so it turns out that this carabiner

0:04:04.799,0:04:05.920
has to accelerate

0:04:05.920,0:04:11.040
my weight up at the same 9.8 meters per

0:04:11.040,0:04:11.599
second

0:04:11.599,0:04:14.879
squared which turns out to be about 600

0:04:14.879,0:04:16.160
newtons

0:04:16.160,0:04:19.600
yep 600 of these need to

0:04:19.600,0:04:23.840
hold one skinny guy like me

0:04:26.840,0:04:28.639
[ __ ]

0:04:28.639,0:04:32.080
okay moving on this quick draw says

0:04:32.080,0:04:37.360
that it can hold up to 26 kilonewtons

0:04:37.360,0:04:39.840
kilonewton is basically a thousand

0:04:39.840,0:04:40.960
newtons

0:04:40.960,0:04:44.240
so it means that it could hold about

0:04:44.240,0:04:48.000
40 me i wish i would have a clone

0:04:48.000,0:04:49.199
machine so i could

0:04:49.199,0:04:52.320
demonstrate this to you

0:04:52.320,0:04:55.759
and then imagine how many videos all of

0:04:55.759,0:04:56.320
this

0:04:56.320,0:04:57.850
me could create

0:04:57.850,0:05:01.039
[Music]

0:05:01.039,0:05:04.160
so if you want to see us create more

0:05:04.160,0:05:05.759
videos like this

0:05:05.759,0:05:09.039
click the join button it really helps

0:05:09.039,0:05:11.520
and i promise i will spend every single

0:05:11.520,0:05:13.360
penny i get from you guys

0:05:13.360,0:05:17.199
on buying a clone machine

0:05:18.479,0:05:22.080
okay so you can hang 40 me

0:05:22.080,0:05:25.360
on one single carabiner that's pretty

0:05:25.360,0:05:26.479
impressive

0:05:26.479,0:05:28.800
although there are things that you must

0:05:28.800,0:05:30.400
know first of all

0:05:30.400,0:05:32.880
all of these ratings are for new

0:05:32.880,0:05:34.000
equipment

0:05:34.000,0:05:36.240
wear and tear does not go into that

0:05:36.240,0:05:37.440
rating

0:05:37.440,0:05:40.800
how bad is that well i asked my friend

0:05:40.800,0:05:43.360
ryan from youtube channel how not to

0:05:43.360,0:05:45.680
highline because he has a hobby

0:05:45.680,0:05:49.199
of breaking stuff and according to his

0:05:49.199,0:05:52.400
tests most of the metals tend to last

0:05:52.400,0:05:53.360
pretty well

0:05:53.360,0:05:56.639
although with soft things things are

0:05:56.639,0:05:59.759
totally different black diamond sling

0:05:59.759,0:06:00.479
with a

0:06:00.479,0:06:07.840
22 kilonewton mbs

0:06:08.880,0:06:11.840
what what was the mbs on is 22

0:06:11.840,0:06:13.199
kilonewtons yeah

0:06:13.199,0:06:17.280
yep a sling rated at 22 kilonewtons

0:06:17.280,0:06:22.080
broke at six and here's another one

0:06:22.080,0:06:27.520
that's a great condition would not whip

0:06:27.520,0:06:32.840
no not whip i would tie my dog to this

0:06:32.840,0:06:35.840
though

0:06:36.880,0:06:39.199
all right i wouldn't tie a very big dog

0:06:39.199,0:06:40.800
to that

0:06:40.800,0:06:44.639
hold on let's see how big of a dog could

0:06:44.639,0:06:45.680
you have tied

0:06:45.680,0:06:48.880
with this oh uh

0:06:48.880,0:06:52.800
chihuahua yeah so if you're one of these

0:06:52.800,0:06:54.560
people who like to save money

0:06:54.560,0:06:58.080
and use very old worn down slings

0:06:58.080,0:07:03.840
good luck 24 kilonewtons

0:07:04.240,0:07:06.240
that did not stretch that much oh i

0:07:06.240,0:07:07.440
guess

0:07:07.440,0:07:10.800
guess four kilonewtons

0:07:10.800,0:07:13.919
what z [ __ ] man 4

0:07:13.919,0:07:16.960
000 newtons okay how much does

0:07:16.960,0:07:20.080
such sling can hold well that's pretty

0:07:20.080,0:07:22.880
easy just divide 4 000 newtons by

0:07:22.880,0:07:26.639
9.8 or if you want easier by 10

0:07:26.639,0:07:29.680
and you get 400 kilograms

0:07:29.680,0:07:33.919
that sounds quite a lot no 400 kilograms

0:07:33.919,0:07:37.520
well all of these conversions from

0:07:37.520,0:07:39.599
force to kilograms that i have been

0:07:39.599,0:07:41.199
talking so far

0:07:41.199,0:07:43.840
are based on the fact that the weight is

0:07:43.840,0:07:45.599
hanging statically

0:07:45.599,0:07:48.400
once the thing starts falling everything

0:07:48.400,0:07:50.879
changes

0:07:53.680,0:07:55.440
so what you have just seen is a clip

0:07:55.440,0:07:56.720
from dmm

0:07:56.720,0:07:59.759
where they dropped 80 kilograms of mass

0:07:59.759,0:08:03.360
and that broke a brand new dyneema sling

0:08:03.360,0:08:06.000
now my goal is not to scare you it's the

0:08:06.000,0:08:08.240
opposite i want to bring the awareness

0:08:08.240,0:08:09.680
that climbing gear is

0:08:09.680,0:08:12.800
not magic and if you use it incorrectly

0:08:12.800,0:08:16.000
it might fail

0:08:16.560,0:08:18.720
fun fact do you know this joke that

0:08:18.720,0:08:20.720
climbers like to say when they fail on

0:08:20.720,0:08:21.680
their climbs

0:08:21.680,0:08:24.800
but today is a high gravity day

0:08:24.800,0:08:27.919
well turns out that's true gravity does

0:08:27.919,0:08:30.080
change from month to month

0:08:30.080,0:08:32.640
so if you are one of those people who

0:08:32.640,0:08:34.240
like to complain that

0:08:34.240,0:08:36.159
today is a bad humidity or bad

0:08:36.159,0:08:38.080
temperature now you have a right to

0:08:38.080,0:08:40.880
complain that today is a bad gravity day

0:08:40.880,0:08:44.080
yay okay let's see what happens when

0:08:44.080,0:08:47.120
objects like us climbers start

0:08:47.120,0:08:49.600
falling

0:08:50.959,0:08:54.000
that was a 10 meters fall

0:08:54.000,0:08:56.160
let's see how much force such fall would

0:08:56.160,0:08:57.920
generate to the climber

0:08:57.920,0:09:00.240
the formula for that would be similar to

0:09:00.240,0:09:01.680
what we had before

0:09:01.680,0:09:04.320
except that we need to multiply this by

0:09:04.320,0:09:06.080
the distance the climber was

0:09:06.080,0:09:09.040
falling and divide by the distance the

0:09:09.040,0:09:10.480
climber was slowing

0:09:10.480,0:09:12.720
down

0:09:16.720,0:09:19.200
and did you actually notice how soft the

0:09:19.200,0:09:23.120
fall for the climber was

0:09:23.120,0:09:26.320
so imagine driving a car in the highway

0:09:26.320,0:09:29.360
and pressing on the brake gently

0:09:29.360,0:09:32.160
while you come to a stop no problems

0:09:32.160,0:09:32.959
right

0:09:32.959,0:09:34.959
now imagine you're not driving so fast

0:09:34.959,0:09:36.000
you're in a city you're

0:09:36.000,0:09:40.080
driving slowly but you slam on a brick

0:09:40.080,0:09:43.279
that would not feel very nice right

0:09:43.279,0:09:45.120
so here is the first thing i want you to

0:09:45.120,0:09:47.040
remember out of this video

0:09:47.040,0:09:49.839
the impact to the climber will always be

0:09:49.839,0:09:52.160
the product of the distance the climber

0:09:52.160,0:09:53.279
was falling

0:09:53.279,0:09:56.080
divided by the distance of the slowdown

0:09:56.080,0:09:57.279
phase

0:09:57.279,0:10:00.000
so let's calculate the falling distance

0:10:00.000,0:10:00.880
was about

0:10:00.880,0:10:03.600
four quick draws and the slow down

0:10:03.600,0:10:04.160
distance

0:10:04.160,0:10:06.640
was about two and a half quickdraws and

0:10:06.640,0:10:09.360
we get about 860 newtons

0:10:09.360,0:10:11.440
or if we would replace her with a

0:10:11.440,0:10:13.920
standard 80 kilogram climber

0:10:13.920,0:10:17.120
that would be about 1.3

0:10:17.120,0:10:20.320
kilonewtons which is not much although

0:10:20.320,0:10:22.320
this formula has a little problem

0:10:22.320,0:10:24.000
because it will always give you

0:10:24.000,0:10:26.560
the value which is slightly lower than

0:10:26.560,0:10:27.440
it would be in

0:10:27.440,0:10:30.079
real life but showing you how to

0:10:30.079,0:10:32.640
calculate more precisely would mean that

0:10:32.640,0:10:34.320
most of you would probably just leave

0:10:34.320,0:10:35.839
this video right here

0:10:35.839,0:10:38.320
but we don't need to do that because we

0:10:38.320,0:10:40.000
can rely on real life

0:10:40.000,0:10:42.959
experimental data and who is the boss at

0:10:42.959,0:10:45.040
providing such data for us

0:10:45.040,0:10:47.440
hi i'm ryan jinx and and that's enough

0:10:47.440,0:10:49.120
advertisement for you

0:10:49.120,0:10:51.279
what we did in this video they put a

0:10:51.279,0:10:53.519
device measuring the force on the

0:10:53.519,0:10:54.320
climber

0:10:54.320,0:11:01.839
and made a series of falls

0:11:07.740,0:11:11.340
[Music]

0:11:12.640,0:11:15.839
that puts me in 1.87

0:11:15.839,0:11:18.079
so most of the falls that in my opinion

0:11:18.079,0:11:20.240
would be a good delaying example

0:11:20.240,0:11:23.200
where below 2 kilonewtons now let's take

0:11:23.200,0:11:24.399
a look at these two

0:11:24.399,0:11:27.680
extreme examples climber on the left is

0:11:27.680,0:11:29.440
5 meters above the bolt

0:11:29.440,0:11:32.640
so that would be 10 meters full plus the

0:11:32.640,0:11:33.920
slack in the system

0:11:33.920,0:11:36.240
the belayer probably has about one meter

0:11:36.240,0:11:36.959
of slack

0:11:36.959,0:11:38.800
and then there is probably one more

0:11:38.800,0:11:40.079
meter of slack

0:11:40.079,0:11:42.240
in between the quick draws so in total

0:11:42.240,0:11:43.120
we are looking at

0:11:43.120,0:11:45.920
12 meters fall while climber on the

0:11:45.920,0:11:48.399
right is only one meter above the bolt

0:11:48.399,0:11:50.560
and let's say that the belayer is really

0:11:50.560,0:11:52.800
afraid and he's going to give a very

0:11:52.800,0:11:54.560
hard catch for the climber

0:11:54.560,0:11:58.000
so we are looking at 2 meters fall

0:11:58.000,0:12:01.839
so a massive 12 meters fall or a small

0:12:01.839,0:12:04.160
2 meters fall which one do you think is

0:12:04.160,0:12:06.320
gonna be softer for the climber

0:12:06.320,0:12:08.399
well let's see we know how much the

0:12:08.399,0:12:10.800
climbers will fall but now we need to

0:12:10.800,0:12:11.680
find out the

0:12:11.680,0:12:13.920
slow down distances for both of the

0:12:13.920,0:12:14.800
cases

0:12:14.800,0:12:17.440
and that depends mainly on two things

0:12:17.440,0:12:18.160
first

0:12:18.160,0:12:20.720
is the displacement of the belayer on a

0:12:20.720,0:12:21.839
big big whipper

0:12:21.839,0:12:24.639
the belayer will probably fly about 2

0:12:24.639,0:12:26.000
meters

0:12:26.000,0:12:28.160
while on a small fall let's assume very

0:12:28.160,0:12:30.000
common mistake for beginners

0:12:30.000,0:12:32.079
where the belayer just takes the slack

0:12:32.079,0:12:34.320
out and delays very hard

0:12:34.320,0:12:37.040
and the second factor is the stretch of

0:12:37.040,0:12:38.079
the rope

0:12:38.079,0:12:40.399
rope manufacturers claim that if you put

0:12:40.399,0:12:41.440
80 kilogram

0:12:41.440,0:12:44.639
mass on a dynamic rope statically

0:12:44.639,0:12:47.519
like so without movement the rope will

0:12:47.519,0:12:48.160
stretch

0:12:48.160,0:12:50.720
10 percent and dynamic stretch when you

0:12:50.720,0:12:52.560
take elite fall

0:12:52.560,0:12:55.680
is up to 30 percent well

0:12:55.680,0:12:58.240
up to 30 percent is not very helpful for

0:12:58.240,0:12:59.839
us what we need to know

0:12:59.839,0:13:02.720
is the stretch of this rope from two to

0:13:02.720,0:13:05.120
four kilonewtons force that's where the

0:13:05.120,0:13:06.639
lead falls are

0:13:06.639,0:13:09.360
and yet again i was texting ryan so i'm

0:13:09.360,0:13:10.160
gonna pull

0:13:10.160,0:13:12.160
some dynamic rope to see how much it

0:13:12.160,0:13:13.839
stretches at first we thought it's gonna

0:13:13.839,0:13:16.240
be very easy just go to the park stretch

0:13:16.240,0:13:17.920
the rope to different forces

0:13:17.920,0:13:21.040
and measure the elongation of the rope

0:13:21.040,0:13:24.160
well sometimes easy is

0:13:24.160,0:13:26.480
hard when you stretch the rope to

0:13:26.480,0:13:28.880
certain force and leave it there

0:13:28.880,0:13:30.720
the force will start dropping on the

0:13:30.720,0:13:32.560
rope the rope kind of just

0:13:32.560,0:13:34.959
gives up while this is very interesting

0:13:34.959,0:13:36.800
it's not critical for us

0:13:36.800,0:13:38.720
the only thing he needed to do is to

0:13:38.720,0:13:40.880
pull the rope as fast as he can to

0:13:40.880,0:13:42.320
desired force

0:13:42.320,0:13:45.920
and measure the stretch okay

0:13:45.920,0:13:49.639
oh my god that's the seven mark

0:13:49.639,0:13:52.880
6.9 meters

0:13:52.880,0:13:56.079
it stretches when you pull it a dynamic

0:13:56.079,0:13:57.519
rope

0:13:57.519,0:13:59.920
to four kilonewtons but then there is

0:13:59.920,0:14:01.360
another interesting factor

0:14:01.360,0:14:04.320
once you load the rope to high forces it

0:14:04.320,0:14:04.800
takes

0:14:04.800,0:14:06.800
some time for the rope to get back to

0:14:06.800,0:14:08.399
its original length

0:14:08.399,0:14:11.519
this is what's known as rope resting and

0:14:11.519,0:14:13.600
it was really cool to see this in action

0:14:13.600,0:14:15.760
see the graveyard getting pulled back

0:14:15.760,0:14:18.639
slowly

0:14:19.519,0:14:22.560
super interesting probably way more

0:14:22.560,0:14:23.199
interesting

0:14:23.199,0:14:25.440
to me than it is to you right now so

0:14:25.440,0:14:27.440
after he spent like four hours in the

0:14:27.440,0:14:28.959
park pulling the ropes

0:14:28.959,0:14:32.000
the results were that on forces from two

0:14:32.000,0:14:33.760
to four kilonewtons

0:14:33.760,0:14:37.680
the rope stretched to about 20 percent

0:14:37.680,0:14:39.920
great so let's use that in our

0:14:39.920,0:14:41.040
calculations

0:14:41.040,0:14:44.240
on a big fall we have 27 meters of rope

0:14:44.240,0:14:45.120
in total

0:14:45.120,0:14:49.440
so that would be 5.4 meters of stretch

0:14:49.440,0:14:51.839
while in a small fall we have 5 meters

0:14:51.839,0:14:52.480
of rope

0:14:52.480,0:14:54.959
and that would be 1 meter of stretch

0:14:54.959,0:14:57.279
however our belayer is panicking and

0:14:57.279,0:14:58.480
taking heart

0:14:58.480,0:15:01.120
so he will take half of that stretch for

0:15:01.120,0:15:02.079
himself

0:15:02.079,0:15:04.639
leaving only half a meter of stretch for

0:15:04.639,0:15:06.480
the climber

0:15:06.480,0:15:09.600
and tadam the big big whipper

0:15:09.600,0:15:12.959
will be two and a half times softer for

0:15:12.959,0:15:16.320
the climber than a small fall

0:15:16.320,0:15:19.040
oh i love fun facts here's another one

0:15:19.040,0:15:20.480
imagine that you were climbing

0:15:20.480,0:15:23.839
and failed but humidity was good

0:15:23.839,0:15:26.320
temperature was good even the gravity

0:15:26.320,0:15:28.240
was good that day

0:15:28.240,0:15:32.000
you can still blame the moon negligibly

0:15:32.000,0:15:35.199
but truly you weigh about a millionth of

0:15:35.199,0:15:35.839
your weight

0:15:35.839,0:15:38.639
less when the moon is directly above you

0:15:38.639,0:15:40.000
so if you want to send

0:15:40.000,0:15:42.560
climb when the moon is directly above

0:15:42.560,0:15:43.839
you

0:15:43.839,0:15:46.240
you're welcome i remember i was

0:15:46.240,0:15:48.560
projecting this really long route of

0:15:48.560,0:15:51.360
35 meters and the first time i managed

0:15:51.360,0:15:53.920
to link all the cruxes and arrive at the

0:15:53.920,0:15:54.800
anchor

0:15:54.800,0:15:57.040
the moment when i was pulling the rope

0:15:57.040,0:15:58.560
up to clip the anchor

0:15:58.560,0:16:00.880
my belayer couldn't see me very well so

0:16:00.880,0:16:03.199
he just gave me a lot of slack

0:16:03.199,0:16:06.079
and on top of that the bolt before the

0:16:06.079,0:16:06.880
anchor

0:16:06.880,0:16:10.160
was really far really ran out

0:16:10.160,0:16:12.959
so while i was dragging the rope up i

0:16:12.959,0:16:14.240
lost my balance

0:16:14.240,0:16:16.800
and took a fall the wall is flying in

0:16:16.800,0:16:18.639
front of me and i'm thinking why i'm

0:16:18.639,0:16:19.040
still

0:16:19.040,0:16:22.560
falling this is unusual when i stopped

0:16:22.560,0:16:24.800
and looked up it was maybe five or six

0:16:24.800,0:16:26.880
quick draws above me probably about

0:16:26.880,0:16:30.240
15 meters of fall but

0:16:30.240,0:16:33.199
the fall was super soft it's like riding

0:16:33.199,0:16:33.519
an

0:16:33.519,0:16:35.759
elevator so here is another takeaway out

0:16:35.759,0:16:36.720
of this video

0:16:36.720,0:16:39.440
if the climber is really high up he has

0:16:39.440,0:16:41.680
a lot of rope to absorb the fall

0:16:41.680,0:16:43.920
so as long as he doesn't fall onto

0:16:43.920,0:16:44.800
something

0:16:44.800,0:16:47.759
the fall will be soft no matter how you

0:16:47.759,0:16:49.199
blade that

0:16:49.199,0:16:52.079
however if the climber is not so high he

0:16:52.079,0:16:54.079
doesn't have so much rope to absorb the

0:16:54.079,0:16:54.720
fall

0:16:54.720,0:16:57.920
then soft dynamic bling is really

0:16:57.920,0:17:01.440
important and you can ask any light

0:17:01.440,0:17:04.240
climber how many times we had their

0:17:04.240,0:17:04.959
ankles

0:17:04.959,0:17:08.079
broken due to hard catches okay let's

0:17:08.079,0:17:09.679
switch gears a little bit let's talk

0:17:09.679,0:17:10.240
about

0:17:10.240,0:17:12.640
friction because the more friction you

0:17:12.640,0:17:13.439
have

0:17:13.439,0:17:16.400
the harder the fall for the climber will

0:17:16.400,0:17:16.880
be

0:17:16.880,0:17:19.439
and here is very extreme example of that

0:17:19.439,0:17:21.199
as you can see right here

0:17:21.199,0:17:24.319
we z dragged it and so we're gonna have

0:17:24.319,0:17:26.319
a lot of friction

0:17:26.319,0:17:33.840
when i fall for science

0:17:34.080,0:17:36.400
so when you have a lot of friction the

0:17:36.400,0:17:38.160
rope close to the climber

0:17:38.160,0:17:40.960
stretches normally but the rope closer

0:17:40.960,0:17:42.080
to belayer

0:17:42.080,0:17:44.400
doesn't stretch that much it's like

0:17:44.400,0:17:46.720
having shorter rope and heavier belayer

0:17:46.720,0:17:47.679
at the same time

0:17:47.679,0:17:50.160
and although the force to the harness

0:17:50.160,0:17:52.400
was only two and a half kilonewtons

0:17:52.400,0:17:54.880
a lot of the force went pendulum into

0:17:54.880,0:17:57.200
the wall

0:17:57.200,0:17:59.919
and that's how we break ankles so

0:17:59.919,0:18:02.480
extending the quickdraws not only helps

0:18:02.480,0:18:06.799
you to clip and avoid situations like

0:18:12.840,0:18:15.840
this

0:18:16.480,0:18:19.280
but also reduces the impact forces for

0:18:19.280,0:18:20.559
the climbers

0:18:20.559,0:18:23.840
ok let's circle back to dmm test

0:18:23.840,0:18:26.640
breaking the sling the nema slings are

0:18:26.640,0:18:28.799
very static they don't stretch

0:18:28.799,0:18:30.880
at all and i hope that by now you

0:18:30.880,0:18:32.880
understand that this sudden stop can

0:18:32.880,0:18:33.440
create a

0:18:33.440,0:18:36.960
huge forces if not ask somebody to slap

0:18:36.960,0:18:37.520
you

0:18:37.520,0:18:40.480
this stop on the face will be basically

0:18:40.480,0:18:42.320
what you need to understand so

0:18:42.320,0:18:44.720
let's make a very wild and probably very

0:18:44.720,0:18:46.080
inaccurate guess

0:18:46.080,0:18:49.440
but this sling would stretch to about 5

0:18:49.440,0:18:53.280
centimeters so if we drop 80 kilograms

0:18:53.280,0:18:54.480
of mass

0:18:54.480,0:18:57.919
the distance of 120 centimeters

0:18:57.919,0:19:00.640
and the absorption distance is only 5

0:19:00.640,0:19:01.840
centimeters

0:19:01.840,0:19:06.080
we are looking at 19 kilo newtons

0:19:06.080,0:19:08.720
if that is not gonna break the sling

0:19:08.720,0:19:10.640
it's definitely gonna break

0:19:10.640,0:19:14.240
you whoa if you're still watching that

0:19:14.240,0:19:16.000
probably means that you should be

0:19:16.000,0:19:19.200
at least a little bit geeky so here is a

0:19:19.200,0:19:21.200
dessert for you

0:19:21.200,0:19:24.400
there is no gravity yeah

0:19:24.400,0:19:27.200
objects don't attract each other there

0:19:27.200,0:19:27.440
is

0:19:27.440,0:19:29.600
only space time you feel as though

0:19:29.600,0:19:30.559
you're being pushed

0:19:30.559,0:19:32.799
into the ground not because of a force

0:19:32.799,0:19:34.000
called gravity

0:19:34.000,0:19:36.480
but because time is moving faster for

0:19:36.480,0:19:37.440
your head

0:19:37.440,0:19:39.919
than for your feet this and all the

0:19:39.919,0:19:41.760
other resources that i use to create

0:19:41.760,0:19:42.559
this video

0:19:42.559,0:19:45.039
will be in the description and now

0:19:45.039,0:19:45.760
please go

0:19:45.760,0:19:48.240
send some love to ryan for providing me

0:19:48.240,0:19:50.640
with all of his experimental data that i

0:19:50.640,0:19:52.240
used in this video

0:19:52.240,0:19:54.559
so don't forget to subscribe and support

0:19:54.559,0:19:56.559
our channels if you want to see more

0:19:56.559,0:19:57.919
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0:19:57.919,0:20:01.600
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