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Made in Bangladesh - the fifth estate

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    This mountain of rubble is a monument
    to the 1100 lives lost here last April,
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    when this garment factory
    collapsed in Bangladesh,
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    unleashing the stories that
    has long been locked inside.
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    A thousand people died and
    no one said a thing.
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    Do you recognize these shorts?
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    We meet the people who make your clothes,
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    and find out where those cloths were made.
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    This your address.
    This is where this came from.
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    The truth that retailers don't
    want you to know.
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    You've been hit. You've been hit.
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    Do any of you worry that one day
    you may die in your factory?
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    Of course. Of course.
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    Dangerous factories.
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    And dark secrets.
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    Hi, I'm Mark Kelly and welcome
    to "The Fifth Estate."
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    I'm standing by the rubble
    of what was once Rana Plaza.
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    When the 8-story factory
    collapsed in April,
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    a frantic search for survivors began.
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    So too did the search for answers.
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    How, the world wondered, could a
    disaster like this happen?
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    We'll join that search when
    we learned many of the victims
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    died here making cloths for
    Canadian consumers.
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    Along the way, we uncovered this ledger
    pulled from the rubble
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    and using the information inside here
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    we spent months piecing together clues
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    that would reveal how and where
    your cloths are being made.
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    And what we would also discover is that
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    the disaster that happened here
    was no accident.
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    Fashion is built on an image
    of beauty, glamour and style.
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    Creations that not only make you
    look good, but feel good.
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    Cloths without a conscience.
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    The reality of the fashion
    industry is far less glamorous.
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    A reality Canadian retailers
    don't want you to know about.
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    It's known as the race to the bottom,
    where the cheapest prices win.
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    A race that created fast fashion.
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    And that's why today, many of your cloths
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    bear the label made in Bangladesh.
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    It was that glamour
    of the fashion industry
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    that spoke to Sujeet Sennik.
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    Even as a teenager Growing up in
    the suburb in Toronto.
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    I'm from a South Asian family.
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    My father is a doctor.
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    And they wanted me to sort of
    follow that path.
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    I was super creative,
    so it was a way for me to say,
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    hey listen, there's a job for me.
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    It's an actual commercial career.
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    He went to a couture school and
    turned a dream into a dream job:
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    designing for Christian Dior and
    Balenciaga in Paris.
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    It was like a fish finding a pond.
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    It gave me a way out,
    a way to, you know, lead my own life.
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    It gave me my freedom,
    and it gave me everything.
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    But the growing popularity and
    increasing demand for fast fashion
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    led him back to Toronto to design
    $20 blouses for Walmart.
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    Instead of Paris, his fashion
    focus was Bangladesh.
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    There was a natural flow
    towards Bangladesh
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    because of fast fashion
    in the last ten years.
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    And trying to get clothes
    cheaper and cheaper.
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    But I think when the recession
    hit people ran for the price,
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    you know, it was Mecca.
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    It was Mecca.
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    But the road to Mecca decimated
    Canada's garment industry.
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    From 2001 to 2010, 75,000 jobs
    were lost here.
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    Many deep-rooted manufacturers
    had a stark choice...
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    Move or close.
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    My great-grandfather was a rag dealer.
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    He used to go from Sherbrooke to
    Montreal in a horse and buggy,
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    buying rags from the farmers.
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    Barry Laxer's family has been
    in the garments business
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    in Montreal and Toronto
    for 3 generations
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    but he was forced to
    pack it all up for price.
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    My single largest customer
    that at the time in Canada
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    accounted for over 50% of our volume
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    told us that to continue doing business
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    we need to find a lower cost
    manufacturing base somewhere else.
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    And that was Bangladesh.
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    It turned out to be Bangladesh.
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    Companies around the world were
    now beating a path to Bangladesh.
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    From H&M to Walmart, Nike and the GAP.
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    Barry Laxer joined that garment Gold Rush.
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    Today, his company Radical Designs
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    runs two factories outside Dhaka,
    the capital of Bangladesh.
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    At least half the machines in
    this factory all came from Canada.
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    We had like 80 containers of
    machinery that came here.
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    You just rushed it over
    here to do business.
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    We just, it wasn't doing
    anything in Toronto.
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    Now he employed more than 1000 people
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    and he pays them 3 times the minimum wage.
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    When you own a factory,
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    nothing is better than walking
    through and seeing it full.
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    And busy.
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    And busy, yeah.
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    You've built quite an empire here, Barry.
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    What's the allure for companies
    to come to Bangladesh?
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    Here, the real allure is labour.
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    The workers will work for wages
    that most countries won't,
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    because there's no alternative.
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    Working for next to nothing is
    better than working for nothing.
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    In real terms, next to nothing
    is $38 a month...
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    or 24 cents an hour.
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    The lowest garment worker
    wage on the planet.
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    The floodgates for
    Canadian business opened
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    when Ottawa dropped import duties
    from Bangladesh in 2003.
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    Canadian companies like Lululemon,
    HBC and Walmart Canada
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    climbed aboard the Bangladeshi band wagon.
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    The result, imports grew by 618%.
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    Some say the front-runner
    in the race to the bottom
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    was Loblaw brand Joe Fresh.
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    These TV ads shows the appeal of
    its cheap and cheerful clothing line.
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    The line has bounced its way to
    one of the top spots
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    in the children's wear market in Canada.
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    Speaking to the CBC in 2010
    the company president said
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    he's just giving consumers
    what they want.
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    They wanted fashion,
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    and they wanted fashion
    that would play across the country
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    and they needed it
    at amazing price points.
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    Joseph Mimran was now
    a fast fashion icon.
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    But just how low could prices go?
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    Well look at this TV Ad for Walmart.
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    Clearly, the lower the better.
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    Now more styles, and more stylish
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    all at unbelievable prices
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    Exclusively at Walmart.
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    For designers like Sujeet Sennik,
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    beauty took a backseat to price.
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    What was the pressure put on you
    to make cheaper and cheaper clothes?
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    Price is the starting point.
    It's everything.
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    It was down to...
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    You got 6 buttons on your shirt,
    take it down to 5.
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    Can we take it down to 4?
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    Sennik says he felt the pressure
    from retailers to cut costs,
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    and so did the factory owners.
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    They can't say no to, to a
    hundred thousand units.
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    That means a very long time that
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    the factory is going to be sitting idle
    if they don't get that order.
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    So they needed you.
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    They need you. They need you.
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    And, you know, at the end of the day,
    that's not my decision,
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    but, like...
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    I started wondering, Mark,
    I really started wondering,
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    how is it possible for clothing to be
    made at these low prices?
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    It's a good question.
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    Because while price was the priority,
    there was signs worker safety was not.
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    In the decade before Rana Plaza,
    hundreds of people died
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    in factory fires and building
    collapses in Bangladesh.
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    Tragedy after tragedy, year after year,
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    and no one in Canada
    seemed to notice.
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    That changed in the morning of April 24,
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    when the eight-storey
    Rana Plaza collapsed.
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    More than 1100 people were killed.
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    Hundreds are still missing,
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    believed to be buried in the rubble.
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    Tell me what happened when
    you learned about Rana Plaza.
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    It was like, if you start
    having nightmares
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    and then they become real,
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    that was what Rana Plaza was for me.
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    The search for survivors
    seemed to drag on and on.
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    Save us brother, I beg you brother.
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    I want to live.
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    Sujeet remembers being called into
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    one particular meeting
    after the collapse,
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    where profits were put ahead of people.
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    We were in a room full of people
    when we were told we were connected.
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    And no one said anything
    about 1000 people.
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    1000 people died, no one said a thing.
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    They didn't, they didn't say
    anything about them,
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    they just talked about their --
    the loss in terms of units,
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    how are they going to
    make up their margins.
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    People were talking about that.
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    And I sat there, I said nothing.
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    Shame on me.
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    Walmart was just one of
    dozens of companies
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    that had used Rana Plaza.
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    At the time of the collapse the
    biggest company in the building
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    was making clothes for Joe Fresh.
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    Their pink and red pants were
    found in the rubble
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    along with the bodies
    of the workers who made them.
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    One week after the collapse,
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    Joseph Mimran and
    Loblaw chairman Gale Weston
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    faced the glare of the media.
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    This has been a -- quite a tragic event...
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    ummm, and it's something that
    has touched all of our hearts --
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    It's been a very difficult
    week for everybody.
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    I'm troubled that despite
    a clear commitment
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    to the highest standards
    of ethical sourcing
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    our company can still be a part
    of such an unspeakable tragedy.
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    But just how deep was that
    commitment to ethical sourcing?
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    What did Canadian companies know about
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    how their clothes were
    being made in Bangladesh.
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    And what did they do to find out?
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    Sujeet wanted to find the truth.
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    So he made a life-changing decision
    and quit his job.
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    I thought, I don't want to be
    a part of this anymore.
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    I can't be a part of this.
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    So, I stopped.
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    When we come back,
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    Sueet's journey.
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    Are we sending people to factories
    knowing that there's a huge danger?
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    And a teenaged garment worker
    who survived the collapse.
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    Welcome to the wild west
    of the global garment industry.
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    Bangladesh has one of the
    world's densest populations,
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    political instability and
    world class corruption.
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    And since the 90's, the economy has
    grown by double digits,
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    fueled by fast fashion.
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    Factories sit unfinished,
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    Just waiting for new floors to be added
    to accommodate new business.
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    And every morning, scenes like this
    play out through the capital Dhaka,
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    as 4 million garment workers
    quietly file into work.
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    They carry with them
    memories of Rana Plaza,
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    wondering if a tragedy like this
    could happen to them.
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    The Rana collapse
    put Sujeet Sennik on a mission.
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    The former fashion designer
    from Walmart Canada
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    now wanted to learn the truth
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    about how the clothes
    he designed were made.
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    I had to find out for myself.
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    Is this what my industry has been doing?
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    Are we doing this on purpose?
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    Are we sending people to factories
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    knowing that there's a huge danger?
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    Sujeet traveled with us to Bangladesh.
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    First stop, a residential
    neighborhood in Dhaka,
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    an unlikely backdrop for the deadliest
    accident in the garment industry
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    before Rana Plaza.
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    This is Tazreen.
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    It's massive.
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    November 2012.
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    Fire broke out in the
    Tazreen fashion factory,
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    a 9-storey building, though the
    owner only had a permit for 3 storeys.
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    There were no fire escapes.
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    Many doors were blocked by boxes.
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    Windows were barred shut.
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    Months before the blaze,
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    the factory's fire safety
    certificate had been revoked.
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    Most of the 112 victims here
    were burned alive.
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    When the Tazreen factory fire
    happened, I was horrified.
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    All these fingers were
    pointing all everywhere,
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    and no one was saying, hey listen, maybe,
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    maybe, we might have just a little bit
    to do with this.
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    Walmart did indeed have something
    to do with this factory.
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    Their Faded Glory shorts were
    pulled from the ashes.
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    The company tried to distance
    itself from the tragedy,
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    insisting Tazreen was not an
    authorized Walmart factory.
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    There's bars on every single window.
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    How were these people
    supposed to get out of here?
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    There's no escaping.
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    I wonder for you, Sujeet,
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    what is this building...,
    what is this a symbol of to you?
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    I think it's shame.
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    We should be ashamed of ourselves
    to let something like this happen.
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    How was it possible that
    people didn't know that
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    this factory was built this way?
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    This woman emerged from
    the crowd of the curious
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    to tell us her story
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    how workers knocked out
    a ventilation fan,
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    and how she survived by jumping
    3 stories to the ground.
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    Will you ever work again?
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    Will you ever have another job
    after your injuries here?
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    How am I supposed to work?
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    I'm afraid to work and
    no one wants to take me.
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    I cannot sit or lie down for a long time.
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    I get better when I take medicine,
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    but when I don't it's painful.
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    With few prospects,
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    she appears as disposable as the
    fast fashion she once made here.
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    This could have been one of my prints.
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    You know, snakeskin's in.
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    There it is.
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    It could have been a shirt, a dress.
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    Is it that important
    that you have to bar people
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    into a building to meet our deadlines?
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    It's not, not for me.
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    It's disgusting.
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    So how did Walmart's clothes
    end up at such a dangerous factory?
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    An investigation by Walmart
    concluded one of its suppliers
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    subcontracted part of the order
    to Tazreen without their permission.
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    But how hard would it be for
    Canadian retailers to find out
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    where their clothes are being made?
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    We wanted to find out,
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    so we bought a Walmart shirt in Canada
    that Sujeet had designed.
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    Shipping records led us to a factory
    on the outskirts of Dhaka.
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    The record named the factory:
    Hasan Tanvir.
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    Walmart publishes a list of
    banned factories in Bangladesh,
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    factories that have failed
    the company's audits.
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    And this factory has been
    on that list since June.
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    We made repeated requests
    to visit the factory,
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    but it wasn't until we showed up
    with our camera
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    that the manager would even talk to us.
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    Hi, my name is Mark.
    I'm from Canada.
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    Canadian television, how are you?
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    Fine.
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    We want to see where
    our clothes are being made
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    and how they are being made.
    And that's why we came over here.
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    I want to go inside and visit.
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    But even he wouldn't let us in.
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    Instead, he passed us off
    to another manager.
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    Have you made this here?
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    We have a shipping record here
    that shows that it was made here.
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    Hasan Tanvir Fashion Wears.
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    This is your address.
    This is where this came from.
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    That's not mine.
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    Hello?
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    Excuse me.
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    He says he's never seen this before,
    doesn't recognize it,
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    despite the fact that
    we showed it was in fact made
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    right there at
    Hasan Tanvir Fashion Wears.
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    Walmart puts it this way:
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    they do make shirts here,
    but not our shirt.
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    In fact 3 months after
    blacklisting this factory,
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    Walmart admits they are still
    making clothes here...
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    one last order they say.
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    Since we couldn't get in
    to meet the workers,
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    then we would take Sujeet to meet them
    at home after work.
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    In this entire area here,
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    everyone who lives here
    works in a garment factory.
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    It's like a compound of
    garment factory workers,
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    so we're going to go in and
    meet some of them tonight.
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    Okay.
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    We'll be there tonight.
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    Wow.
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    These are, 9 people
    who work at the factory.
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    They asked us to hide their faces,
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    fearing they'd lose their jobs
    simply for talking to us...
  • 20:00 - 20:03
    I want to know who are you
    making garments for now
  • 20:03 - 20:05
    inside the factory.
  • 20:05 - 20:08
    Canada, Canada, Canada.
  • 20:08 - 20:12
    We hear that there are problems
    working inside Hasan Tanvir
  • 20:12 - 20:16
    and we had reports that there was a fire
    at the factory recently.
  • 20:16 - 20:18
    Can they tell us what happened?
  • 20:19 - 20:22
    When the fire really started to spread,
  • 20:22 - 20:24
    all the workers started to protest,
  • 20:24 - 20:26
    they broke the gates and escaped.
  • 20:26 - 20:28
    They didn't wanna let us out.
  • 20:28 - 20:30
    They never wanna let us out.
  • 20:30 - 20:33
    They just want to turn off the
    lights and keep us in there
  • 20:33 - 20:35
    and say "sit down, shut up and work."
  • 20:35 - 20:42
    Do any of you worry that one day
    you may die in your factory?
  • 20:44 - 20:46
    Of course. Of course.
  • 20:46 - 20:49
    And it happened all the time.
    It happened regularly.
  • 20:49 - 20:53
    Yeah, it happened all the time.
    Every few days there's a fire.
  • 20:53 - 20:56
    I want to know if...
    if you recognize this shirt?
  • 20:56 - 21:03
    If any of you recognize having made
    this shirt over the past few months?
  • 21:03 - 21:06
    Is this something that you
    made in the factory?
  • 21:06 - 21:10
    We showed them Sujeet's shirt
    that we bought in Canada.
  • 21:12 - 21:15
    Yeah, it's from the 5th floor.
  • 21:15 - 21:21
    I made it when I used to
    work on the 5th floor.
  • 21:21 - 21:24
    So she worked on this garment?
  • 21:24 - 21:26
    Yes.
  • 21:26 - 21:33
    I designed this garment.
    I drew this garment.
  • 21:33 - 21:38
    Look, I did this...
  • 21:38 - 21:44
    So you put these two pieces together.
    So you put the sleeve in.
  • 21:44 - 21:47
    Thank you.
  • 21:49 - 21:53
    How do you feel meeting
    the woman who made your design?
  • 21:53 - 21:56
    I'm grateful to meet you.
  • 21:56 - 21:59
    I wanted to meet you.
  • 22:02 - 22:08
    It's nice to finally be able to see you
  • 22:08 - 22:15
    and tell you that I think that
    you should have a better life.
  • 22:19 - 22:22
    Coming up...
  • 22:22 - 22:28
    Why were Joe Fresh clothes being made in
    the death trap that was Rana Plaza?
  • 22:28 - 22:33
    We go inside a prison in Bangladesh
    looking for answers.
  • 22:53 - 23:00
    Every piece of clothing we wear
    has a silent story stitched into it.
  • 23:00 - 23:06
    The story of who made it and where.
  • 23:06 - 23:11
    When Rana Plaza collapsed in April,
    those stories came spilling out.
  • 23:11 - 23:17
    So, did the clothes from the ill fated
    factory ever make it to Canada?
  • 23:17 - 23:22
    Well, we visited 6 stores in the
    Toronto area, with a hidden camera,
  • 23:22 - 23:26
    3 months after the Rana Plaza collapse.
  • 23:26 - 23:31
    We found clothes made in Rana Plaza,
    in sore after store.
  • 23:31 - 23:33
    So I have a question...
  • 23:33 - 23:35
    But you wouldn't know it
    by asking the sales associates.
  • 23:35 - 23:38
    There was really like, there was
    really only one product
  • 23:38 - 23:41
    that we were making in that
    particular factory.
  • 23:41 - 23:43
    It was like this line of
    pants that we did
  • 23:43 - 23:45
    We never ended up getting them.
    Like obviously,
  • 23:45 - 23:48
    like we just like, got rid of it
    and everything.
  • 23:48 - 23:51
    It's doubtful that it was
    from that factory.
  • 23:51 - 23:55
    That stuff that was made in that place
    never even made it here.
  • 23:56 - 23:59
    Loblaw's shipping records
    revealed all these styles,
  • 23:59 - 24:04
    hundreds of thousands of garments were
    made in Rana Plaza before the collapse,
  • 24:04 - 24:08
    and sold in Joe Fresh sores this summer.
  • 24:13 - 24:16
    So how did clothes for Joe Fresh
    end up beingmade
  • 24:16 - 24:18
    in the death-trap that was Rana Plaza?
  • 24:18 - 24:21
    Well, that's a question we had
    for the factory owner.
  • 24:21 - 24:23
    The problem is he's behind bars,
  • 24:23 - 24:26
    charged with negligence
    in the deaths of the workers.
  • 24:26 - 24:29
    So "The Fifth Estate" petitioned
    the Bangladeshi government
  • 24:29 - 24:30
    for permission to speak with him.
  • 24:30 - 24:34
    The government eventually agreed
    but with one condition.
  • 24:34 - 24:37
    Our camera would not be allowed
    inside the prison.
  • 24:39 - 24:44
    As public outrage grew after the collapse,
    Bazlus Adnan surrendered to police.
  • 24:44 - 24:49
    His three factories occupied
    almost half of Rana Plaza.
  • 24:49 - 24:53
    We arrived at Dhaka Central Jail,
    where he's waiting trial.
  • 24:53 - 24:55
    He began our interview saying
  • 24:55 - 24:59
    how he parlayed an $8000 loan
    from his dad in 1992,
  • 24:59 - 25:03
    and turned it into a
    $15 million a year business,
  • 25:03 - 25:07
    thanks in large part
    to his best customer, Joe Fresh.
  • 25:07 - 25:12
    Joe Fresh was my biggest client,
    about $6 million year.
  • 25:12 - 25:15
    That is why I was going bigger.
  • 25:15 - 25:18
    He says he was eager to
    please his biggest client,
  • 25:18 - 25:23
    so work had begun on Rana Plaza to add
    a ninth floor for his booming business.
  • 25:23 - 25:27
    I asked whether he was under pressure
    to make clothes cheaper... and faster...
  • 25:27 - 25:29
    Everybody is doing this.
  • 25:29 - 25:31
    They all squeezed me.
  • 25:31 - 25:33
    But Joe Fresh was a very good customer.
  • 25:33 - 25:37
    Their policy was just ship it on time.
  • 25:38 - 25:40
    Before my time was up for the interview,
  • 25:40 - 25:42
    I asked him to name one Loblaw employee
  • 25:42 - 25:47
    who had ever visited his factory at
    Rana Plaza before the collapse.
  • 25:48 - 25:51
    He couldn't.
  • 25:52 - 25:55
    This ledger helps explain
    how that could happen.
  • 25:55 - 25:58
    From the entries here, we
    learned Loblaw placed orders
  • 25:58 - 26:01
    with a buying house in India
    called House of Pearl,
  • 26:01 - 26:06
    who, in turn, placed Joe Fresh orders
    with the factory at Rana Plaza.
  • 26:06 - 26:08
    House of Pearl, we learned,
  • 26:08 - 26:12
    hired inspectors to check the quality
    of the clothes made in Rana Plaza,
  • 26:12 - 26:16
    but not to inspect building safety.
  • 26:18 - 26:21
    Outsourcing ethical
    responsibilities to third parties,
  • 26:21 - 26:24
    enables companies like
    Loblaw to distance themselves
  • 26:24 - 26:27
    from the work being done on the ground,
  • 26:27 - 26:30
    according to our
    Canadian factory owner Barry Laxer.
  • 26:31 - 26:34
    You know, after Rana Plaza happened
    all these realities were saying,
  • 26:34 - 26:36
    "well we didn't know."
  • 26:36 - 26:39
    Is that true? Did they not know
    what was going on in this country?
  • 26:39 - 26:43
    A lot of companies just want
    cheap manufacturing.
  • 26:43 - 26:45
    So, they don't really look.
  • 26:47 - 26:49
    Or ask the tough questions.
  • 26:49 - 26:51
    Or ask the questions,
    because if you don't ask the questions,
  • 26:51 - 26:53
    you don't get the answers
    that you don't want to hear.
  • 26:53 - 26:56
    Was the Rana Plaza collapse a
    wakeup call?
  • 26:56 - 26:59
    I mean, do you really believe this
    going to change anything here?
  • 26:59 - 27:03
    I think in the end a lot of
    companies are continuing
  • 27:03 - 27:06
    just to look for margin and cost.
  • 27:06 - 27:10
    And -- and...
  • 27:10 - 27:12
    Ultimately that's why
    they're here, right?
  • 27:12 - 27:14
    That's why they're here.
  • 27:14 - 27:15
    If that wasn't the issue,
  • 27:15 - 27:20
    they could be buying products
    made in the United States or Canada.
  • 27:23 - 27:28
    We wanted to know more about the
    working conditions inside Rana Plaza.
  • 27:29 - 27:32
    Who better to tell us than the
    people who worked there.
  • 27:33 - 27:35
    After the collapse,
  • 27:35 - 27:39
    cameras captured this footage
    of survivors recovering in a hospital.
  • 27:40 - 27:45
    We were intrigued by this girl, who was
    trapped in the rubble for three days
  • 27:45 - 27:49
    pinned under two dead bodies.
  • 27:49 - 27:52
    She lost her mother, as well as her leg.
  • 27:53 - 27:58
    Both mother and daughter were
    making clothes for Joe Fresh.
  • 28:06 - 28:10
    Months after the collapse,
    we finally found her.
  • 28:10 - 28:13
    Her name is Aruti.
  • 28:13 - 28:18
    She tells us she is 17, though
    her grandmother says she is really 15.
  • 28:18 - 28:21
    A kid making kids clothes for Canadians.
  • 28:24 - 28:27
    Do you recognize these shorts?
  • 28:27 - 28:29
    Like these shorts.
  • 28:30 - 28:33
    Yeah.
    These pants were there.
  • 28:33 - 28:37
    She sewed pocket seams,
    150 pockets an hour.
  • 28:38 - 28:41
    How do you feel
    when you look at these pants?
  • 28:45 - 28:46
    I feel sad.
  • 28:46 - 28:52
    If I didn't work in that factory,
    this would not have happened.
  • 28:52 - 28:55
    I feel very bad seeing these pants.
  • 28:55 - 28:59
    She says she's been working
    in the industry for three years,
  • 28:59 - 29:02
    meaning she started
    when she was just 12.
  • 29:02 - 29:06
    Like many women in Bangladesh,
    she felt it was her only hope.
  • 29:08 - 29:13
    When I was little, I thought I would grow
    up, go to school, study, and have a job.
  • 29:13 - 29:17
    If you study, you have a job,
    a doctor, a teacher.
  • 29:17 - 29:20
    You can have any job.
  • 29:20 - 29:24
    But I couldn't do it, because
    I'm poor, I have to work to eat.
  • 29:24 - 29:28
    That's why I went into garment work.
  • 29:29 - 29:33
    Aruti's shift was punishing,
    12 hours a day, 7 days a week.
  • 29:33 - 29:37
    And when a rush order was placed,
    overtime was demanded.
  • 29:37 - 29:41
    How did your bosses treat you
    and the other workers?
  • 29:43 - 29:48
    If the others didn't know how to do
    the work, they used to yell and swear.
  • 29:48 - 29:53
    If I can't work fast enough and meet
    the target, they'll swear at me as well.
  • 29:53 - 29:56
    I would feel really bad.
  • 29:59 - 30:04
    She also remembers how cracks had been
    spotted inside Rana Plaza
  • 30:04 - 30:06
    the day before the tragedy.
  • 30:06 - 30:08
    The building was evacuated.
  • 30:08 - 30:10
    She didn't believe the building owner,
  • 30:10 - 30:14
    who insisted everything was safe,
    just hours before the collapse.
  • 30:16 - 30:20
    This is not a crack, it's just that
    the plaster came off
  • 30:20 - 30:24
    a little bit. They made it
    seem a big thing.
  • 30:26 - 30:30
    The next day, April 24th,
    her boss phoned her home
  • 30:30 - 30:34
    and ordered her to get back to work,
    or she'd be fired.
  • 30:35 - 30:38
    On that day that they told you
    to go back to work,
  • 30:38 - 30:41
    were you afraid? Were you worried that
    that building was dangerous?
  • 30:44 - 30:47
    There were many of us
    who didn't want to go.
  • 30:47 - 30:49
    But they forced us. They said,
  • 30:49 - 30:55
    "Don't worry, nothing will happen.
    And if you die we'll die, too."
  • 30:55 - 30:57
    But they didn't go inside.
  • 30:57 - 31:00
    They made us to start work and then left.
  • 31:00 - 31:02
    I was scared.
  • 31:02 - 31:04
    But there was nothing I could do.
  • 31:04 - 31:09
    If I stopped working, the line would stop,
    and I would be in trouble.
  • 31:12 - 31:15
    She and her fellow workers returned.
  • 31:15 - 31:19
    An hour later, the building collapsed.
  • 31:19 - 31:23
    Aruti was on the 6th floor.
  • 31:23 - 31:27
    What do you remember about the moment
    the building collapsed?
  • 31:28 - 31:32
    When it collapsed, I thought,
    I wouldn't survive.
  • 31:32 - 31:36
    Two dead bodied fell on my leg
    and my leg was stuck there.
  • 31:36 - 31:40
    The roof fell on top of the bodies.
  • 31:40 - 31:45
    I didn't know then that I would
    actually come out alive.
  • 31:47 - 31:50
    Her family received some compensation
    from the government
  • 31:50 - 31:53
    for the death of her mother
    and the loss of her leg.
  • 31:53 - 31:55
    When asked what she received from Loblaw,
  • 31:55 - 31:58
    she told us she is still hoping.
  • 32:00 - 32:02
    When we come back,
  • 32:02 - 32:07
    we expose an even uglier side of the
    fashion industry in Bangladesh.
  • 32:08 - 32:11
    You've been hit. You've been hit.
  • 32:23 - 32:25
    After the collapse of Rana Plaza,
  • 32:25 - 32:30
    the Bangladeshi government scrambled
    to assure nervous retailers and consumers
  • 32:30 - 32:33
    that the country was a safe
    place to do business.
  • 32:35 - 32:36
    But even Loblaw,
  • 32:36 - 32:40
    who had been making Joe Fresh
    clothes in this country for 7 years,
  • 32:40 - 32:42
    wondered how garment workers
    could be exposed
  • 32:42 - 32:46
    to what it called unacceptable risk.
  • 32:47 - 32:50
    So we took a closer look...
    and discovered within 3 hours,
  • 32:50 - 32:55
    how easy it was to find the ugly
    side of fast fashion.
  • 32:57 - 33:02
    A factory dumping technicolored
    waste water directly into a river.
  • 33:06 - 33:09
    A river that now runs black.
  • 33:12 - 33:16
    Then we saw a jute factory with
    an open door that caught our eye.
  • 33:17 - 33:20
    Inside, the air was tick with dust;
  • 33:22 - 33:24
    dust from a toxic dye.
  • 33:25 - 33:28
    Yet no one here wore a mask.
  • 33:31 - 33:36
    Within minutes, we were kicked out
    by the owner and his thugs.
  • 33:38 - 33:42
    Finally, we went into one last factory
    with a hidden camera.
  • 33:43 - 33:46
    I'll show you a very good factory.
    Everything in one place.
  • 33:46 - 33:50
    And found these children operating looms.
  • 33:50 - 33:55
    One manager admitted some factory owners
    hire kids under the age of 10 for menial jobs,
  • 33:55 - 33:58
    and paid them about a dollar a day.
  • 33:59 - 34:04
    The garment industry has made some
    people in this country fabulously rich,
  • 34:04 - 34:08
    but poverty is still
    everywhere you look.
  • 34:09 - 34:14
    Some of the poorest are these squatters
    who live next to the railway tracks,
  • 34:14 - 34:16
    in the shadow of wealth.
  • 34:19 - 34:22
    This gleaming tower is home to the BGMEA.
  • 34:22 - 34:25
    That's the business group
    that represents the titans
  • 34:25 - 34:28
    of the garment industry in Bangladesh.
  • 34:32 - 34:37
    We arrived to find a thousand
    angry workers protesting outside.
  • 34:37 - 34:41
    They say they haven't been paid
    by their employer in a month.
  • 34:42 - 34:45
    They work for a factory that,
    until last fall,
  • 34:45 - 34:48
    made clothes for Canadians.
  • 34:50 - 34:51
    So what happened?
  • 34:51 - 34:53
    Shoom, shoom, shoom.
  • 34:53 - 34:55
    You've been hit. You've been hit.
  • 34:55 - 34:57
    He'd been hit.
  • 34:57 - 34:59
    He'd been hit. He'd been hit.
  • 34:59 - 35:01
    Who did this to you?
  • 35:01 - 35:01
    Bamboo.
  • 35:01 - 35:03
    Yes, yes, bamboo.
  • 35:03 - 35:04
    Who did this?
  • 35:04 - 35:05
    The owners hired gangsters?
  • 35:05 - 35:07
    Yes, yes, gangster.
  • 35:07 - 35:08
    And what were you doing?
  • 35:08 - 35:10
    You were just protesting?
  • 35:10 - 35:10
    Yes.
  • 35:10 - 35:14
    You were protesting because you
    wanted your back-wages.
  • 35:14 - 35:14
    Yes.
  • 35:14 - 35:17
    And you make clothes for Canada?
  • 35:17 - 35:18
    Yes.
  • 35:20 - 35:23
    We had some questions for the
    powerful head of the garment industry,
  • 35:23 - 35:26
    the top man Canadian retailers deal with.
  • 35:26 - 35:30
    Atiqul Islam is a prominent
    factory owner in his own right.
  • 35:30 - 35:35
    He's made clothes for Walmart
    Canada, Loblaw and HBC.
  • 35:35 - 35:39
    I asked him about the protest
    outside his window.
  • 35:40 - 35:43
    This is completely open industry.
  • 35:43 - 35:46
    If you don't like there you can
    go the other work there.
  • 35:46 - 35:50
    We have a 25% worker shortage in
    the industry, still today.
  • 35:50 - 35:53
    In other words, if workers are abused,
  • 35:53 - 35:56
    his advice? Quit and work somewhere else.
  • 35:56 - 35:59
    When I ask him about the
    bad factories we saw,
  • 35:59 - 36:03
    the child labor, the pollution,
    the dangerous working conditions,
  • 36:03 - 36:05
    he wasn't alarmed.
  • 36:05 - 36:07
    A lot of factories that are
    state of the art.
  • 36:07 - 36:10
    We've seen the nice ones.
    We've seen the state of the art.
  • 36:10 - 36:13
    We've seen the example of where
    the industry is moving.
  • 36:13 - 36:15
    But you're at a point right now
  • 36:15 - 36:18
    where there are some
    shining examples but...
  • 36:18 - 36:19
    So for that,
  • 36:19 - 36:22
    sometimes the shiny is covered
    by the cloud of this kind of thing.
  • 36:22 - 36:25
    So we need to clean the cloud.
  • 36:25 - 36:28
    But what about illegal subcontracting,
  • 36:28 - 36:31
    when one factory gives order
    to another without approval?
  • 36:32 - 36:35
    If the factories are overbooked, they
    must say no, I'm overbooked.
  • 36:35 - 36:39
    And as well as from the outside,
    the retailers side also.
  • 36:39 - 36:40
    But you're a businessman.
  • 36:40 - 36:43
    Are they really going to say I'm
    overbooked and I can't take the business?
  • 36:43 - 36:44
    Yah, yah, yah.
  • 36:44 - 36:45
    Everybody wants the business.
  • 36:45 - 36:47
    No, no, no.
    It's not like that.
  • 36:47 - 36:49
    Things are completely changed.
    It is not like that.
  • 36:49 - 36:53
    We had spoken with some sources
    who work for Walmart Canada.
  • 36:53 - 36:56
    They placed an order with your group,
  • 36:56 - 36:59
    and they said that that order
    was then ended up being
  • 36:59 - 37:02
    made at factory that was not approved.
  • 37:02 - 37:04
    Hasan Tanvir.
  • 37:04 - 37:05
    Hasan?
  • 37:05 - 37:06
    Hasan Tanvir.
  • 37:06 - 37:09
    Remember that Walmart shirt --
  • 37:09 - 37:12
    Well, we had questions about
    who exactly made it.
  • 37:17 - 37:20
    We showed it to workers and
    they said "yah", they made it.
  • 37:20 - 37:27
    It is very difficult for me to know
    whether I'm making this, number one.
  • 37:27 - 37:31
    And number two, there's no way that
    we're giving the goods to the outside.
  • 37:31 - 37:37
    It's absolutely no way.
    Our all garments is made in our factory.
  • 37:37 - 37:42
    But Walmart told us Mr. Islam did indeed
    have the contract to make Sujeet's shirt.
  • 37:42 - 37:46
    But at his own factory,
    not not Hasan Tanvir.
  • 37:47 - 37:51
    Thank you. Thank you, I'll take that.
  • 37:51 - 37:52
    You don't need that.
  • 37:52 - 37:56
    Can I just see this one thing.
    Just have a seat and I, uh....
  • 37:56 - 37:57
    Absolutely.
  • 37:57 - 38:02
    And then something extraordinary
    happened after our interview wrapped up...
  • 38:02 - 38:04
    Look in the background,
  • 38:04 - 38:09
    as Mr. Islam conceals the garment
    behind his desk with a pen in hand.
  • 38:16 - 38:20
    After we left we noticed the tag
    on the shirt had been defaced.
  • 38:20 - 38:24
    The barcode and the Canadian
    import number that could connect
  • 38:24 - 38:28
    their shirt to Atiqul Islam's
    company were blacked out.
  • 38:28 - 38:32
    We asked him the next day if he
    did it. He denied it.
  • 38:34 - 38:38
    As for Loblaw and Joe Fresh --
    the Canadian company insists
  • 38:38 - 38:42
    it will help lead lead the way
    to clean up the industry in Bangladesh.
  • 38:42 - 38:45
    Our industry can be a force for good.
  • 38:45 - 38:51
    Properly inspected, well built
    factories play (an) important role
  • 38:51 - 38:55
    in the development of
    countries such as Bangladesh.
  • 38:55 - 38:59
    Did Loblaw properly inspect before
    Rana Plaza before the collapse?
  • 38:59 - 39:02
    They say they did visit the factory.
  • 39:02 - 39:05
    So why were they still
    making clothes there?
  • 39:06 - 39:09
    That's what we wanted to ask Joe Mimran,
  • 39:09 - 39:12
    but we were told he wasn't
    available for an interview.
  • 39:13 - 39:16
    I am troubled by the deafening silence
  • 39:16 - 39:19
    from other apparel retailers
    on this issue.
  • 39:19 - 39:23
    And while Loblaw CEO Galen Weston
  • 39:23 - 39:26
    publicly criticizes other companies
    for their deafening silence,
  • 39:26 - 39:29
    he declined to be interviewed
    for this story.
  • 39:32 - 39:34
    Loblaw did send us an email
  • 39:34 - 39:37
    outlining their efforts to
    help workers in Bangladesh.
  • 39:37 - 39:39
    They say since the collapse
  • 39:39 - 39:42
    they've contributed a million
    dollars to two charities,
  • 39:42 - 39:44
    and joined a compliance accord
    with other retailers
  • 39:44 - 39:48
    aimed at improving working
    conditions in Bangladesh,
  • 39:48 - 39:51
    and the company will now
    put "boots on the ground"
  • 39:51 - 39:55
    somewhere "in the region"
    to inspect factories.
  • 39:57 - 39:59
    But there's another way.
  • 39:59 - 40:02
    Canadian factory owner Barry
    Laxer wanted a safe factory,
  • 40:02 - 40:04
    so he built one.
  • 40:04 - 40:06
    It's run by a Canadian team.
  • 40:06 - 40:09
    And he visits it regularly.
  • 40:10 - 40:15
    But what are the effects then
    of paying the cheapest possible price
  • 40:15 - 40:17
    in a country like Bangladesh?
  • 40:17 - 40:20
    Sooner or later there'll be
    another Rana Plaza.
  • 40:20 - 40:21
    It's just a matter of time.
  • 40:21 - 40:24
    Sooner or later there'll be
    another fire somewhere
  • 40:24 - 40:26
    that will claim more lives.
  • 40:26 - 40:30
    Because Bangladesh is just the
    floor and the testing ground
  • 40:30 - 40:34
    for how cheap products can be sold.
  • 40:36 - 40:40
    Before former Walmart designer
    Sujeet Sennik left Bangladesh,
  • 40:40 - 40:43
    we had one more stop to make.
  • 40:44 - 40:47
    There's one last thing I wanted
    to show you before you go.
  • 40:48 - 40:51
    This is where Rana Plaza once stood.
  • 40:53 - 40:55
    Oh my god.
  • 40:57 - 40:59
    There's nothing left.
  • 41:00 - 41:02
    There are people walking around.
  • 41:02 - 41:08
    And in Canada wearing clothes that
    were made by these people who died here.
  • 41:09 - 41:13
    This is kind of a monument to greed.
  • 41:16 - 41:19
    This is a product of
    the race to the bottom.
  • 41:21 - 41:23
    So what are consumers to do?
  • 41:23 - 41:26
    Boycott clothes made in Bangladesh?
  • 41:26 - 41:30
    The jobs are pulling millions of
    women out of poverty.
  • 41:31 - 41:37
    Like Aruti who, despite her loss, knows
    has to go back to work.
  • 41:37 - 41:39
    Especially now that her mother is gone
  • 41:39 - 41:43
    and she'll have to support her
    younger sisters and her grandmother.
  • 41:45 - 41:49
    Do you want to go back and work
    inside a garment factory now?
  • 41:50 - 41:53
    If I wanted to work in the factory,
  • 41:53 - 41:58
    it's not possible to walk back and forth
    and go up and down the stairs.
  • 41:58 - 42:02
    I can't do it yet.
    That's the issue now.
  • 42:02 - 42:05
    I will be able to go back,
  • 42:05 - 42:09
    but I'm afraid.
  • 42:14 - 42:16
    Well, after watching tonight's episode,
  • 42:16 - 42:18
    you may be wondering more
    about the clothe you buy
  • 42:18 - 42:20
    and how they were made.
  • 42:20 - 42:22
    Well for some of the brands
    and lines of clothing
  • 42:22 - 42:24
    that we mentioned on tonight's program,
  • 42:24 - 42:27
    you can find out more information
    by going to our website.
  • 42:27 - 42:30
    That's at cbc.ca/fifth.
  • 42:30 - 42:33
    Of course we'll continue
    to update that website
  • 42:33 - 42:36
    with the developments on this story
    in the weeks and months ahead.
  • 42:36 - 42:39
    Stay with us.
    We'll be right back after this.
Title:
Made in Bangladesh - the fifth estate
Description:

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Duration:
42:41

English subtitles

Revisions