I had a Near Fatal Incident - GriGri Slipping

it's kind of good that this has happened

to you it's kind of good that this is

because to me and that I survived yeah

that was a closer to the Grand that

would have been a ground floor yeah

actually if I would have fallen not from

the anchor but few quick draws slower

good job you've got a YouTube channel

because yeah

that's sketchy

good job you can share that with people

I think

yeah so most of the time I get sketchy

situations that I share on my YouTube

from my followers however this time it

was me I took a whipper from the top of

the route literally from the anchor and

I instantly realized that this fall is

not normal I kept falling and falling

and falling and it's just accelerating

and then boom sudden stop I look down to

my Blair she's maybe a few meters up the

ground which looks normal I look up at

the distance that I fell and that is

completely not normal first question

immediately was how much slack did you

had did you just gave me 15 arms of

slack and she was like no there was

absolutely no slack in the system

shocked scared confused so I decided to

go up and try it again but this time I

took half of that fall as a test fall to

see what's gonna happen and the same

thing happened again I'm just falling

falling falling falling fall I'm falling

boom sudden stop I look down my Bel Air

is only one meter off the ground this

time and she is claiming that she had

absolutely no slack this time but the

fall was equally giant so by that time

my pants were already quite full so I

asked her to lower me and I wanted to

investigate what's happening and I found

out what's happening this was what was

happening okay go

boy

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foreign

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that was a lot so basically I got the

Kink and it stopped

and I was not pressing on the cam so

yeah the Rope was slipping through the

grigri and the reason was basically a

combination of three different things

first is that we used very skinny rope

this was 9.0 millimeters rope it's not a

brand new rope however it's still in a

great condition and it doesn't have any

fuzz so it's still very very slippery it

goes through grigri very easily as a

side note petzl says that the optimal

rope diameter for the grigor is between

8.9 and 10 and a half millimeters so

this rope definitely Falls in that range

but it slides very smoothly through the

grigri now the second reason was

friction the Rope went over multiple

angles on the Rock and zigzagged between

the quick draws so despite me taking a

big whipper which normally would result

into hard Yank on the belayer or on the

delayed device and would definitely lock

it this time the force to the blank

device wasn't that hard because it was

absorbed verb in the friction and the

final the third reason or the moment of

oh [ __ ] or aha was the following when we

hold the grigri in our hand we are

supposed to have a good grip on the Rope

however we get so comfortable that this

grip becomes very loose and in this

position the Rope can go through the

grigri very easily because it creates

this nice angle feeding into the grigri

if I would remove the hand from here the

angle becomes way more Steep and the

grigri is more grabby

also the grigri grabs more if the Rope

going to the climber is more forward

facing so in this position grigri grabs

more however in this position grigri

doesn't grab as much in fact it almost

doesn't grab at all so this is what

happened the route was quite overhanging

and had a lip after which belayer

couldn't see me anymore so she was

standing directly under the first bolt

and as I explained the angle of the

climber's end of the Rope is important

in how much the grigri will grab if you

would walk a bit forward then this angle

becomes even negative and the grigri is

even less likely to grab then combined

with the habit of holding the brake side

of the Rope holding Loosely in your hand

which is not holding at all and combined

with the fact that she couldn't see me

and she had no idea when I'm going to

fall resulted into the Rope flying

through her hand

until at some point luckily she tugged

on the rope and I got a really hard

catch

luckily

that was just in time because you're

falling every millisecond faster and

faster and faster and I could have been

on the ground so the takeaway is that

you have to subscribe and if you want

extra Karma points you can visit my

website and don't get lazy hold your

rope don't expect grigri Auto magically

grab you no matter what

because it might not as I just showed

you from my experience

so I'm happy that this happened to me

I'm happy that I can share this story

with you so it doesn't happen to you

and see you in the next video