it's kind of good that this has happened
to you it's kind of good that this is
because to me and that I survived yeah
that was a closer to the Grand that
would have been a ground floor yeah
actually if I would have fallen not from
the anchor but few quick draws slower
good job you've got a YouTube channel
because yeah
that's sketchy
good job you can share that with people
I think
yeah so most of the time I get sketchy
situations that I share on my YouTube
from my followers however this time it
was me I took a whipper from the top of
the route literally from the anchor and
I instantly realized that this fall is
not normal I kept falling and falling
and falling and it's just accelerating
and then boom sudden stop I look down to
my Blair she's maybe a few meters up the
ground which looks normal I look up at
the distance that I fell and that is
completely not normal first question
immediately was how much slack did you
had did you just gave me 15 arms of
slack and she was like no there was
absolutely no slack in the system
shocked scared confused so I decided to
go up and try it again but this time I
took half of that fall as a test fall to
see what's gonna happen and the same
thing happened again I'm just falling
falling falling falling fall I'm falling
boom sudden stop I look down my Bel Air
is only one meter off the ground this
time and she is claiming that she had
absolutely no slack this time but the
fall was equally giant so by that time
my pants were already quite full so I
asked her to lower me and I wanted to
investigate what's happening and I found
out what's happening this was what was
happening okay go
boy
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foreign
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that was a lot so basically I got the
Kink and it stopped
and I was not pressing on the cam so
yeah the Rope was slipping through the
grigri and the reason was basically a
combination of three different things
first is that we used very skinny rope
this was 9.0 millimeters rope it's not a
brand new rope however it's still in a
great condition and it doesn't have any
fuzz so it's still very very slippery it
goes through grigri very easily as a
side note petzl says that the optimal
rope diameter for the grigor is between
8.9 and 10 and a half millimeters so
this rope definitely Falls in that range
but it slides very smoothly through the
grigri now the second reason was
friction the Rope went over multiple
angles on the Rock and zigzagged between
the quick draws so despite me taking a
big whipper which normally would result
into hard Yank on the belayer or on the
delayed device and would definitely lock
it this time the force to the blank
device wasn't that hard because it was
absorbed verb in the friction and the
final the third reason or the moment of
oh [ __ ] or aha was the following when we
hold the grigri in our hand we are
supposed to have a good grip on the Rope
however we get so comfortable that this
grip becomes very loose and in this
position the Rope can go through the
grigri very easily because it creates
this nice angle feeding into the grigri
if I would remove the hand from here the
angle becomes way more Steep and the
grigri is more grabby
also the grigri grabs more if the Rope
going to the climber is more forward
facing so in this position grigri grabs
more however in this position grigri
doesn't grab as much in fact it almost
doesn't grab at all so this is what
happened the route was quite overhanging
and had a lip after which belayer
couldn't see me anymore so she was
standing directly under the first bolt
and as I explained the angle of the
climber's end of the Rope is important
in how much the grigri will grab if you
would walk a bit forward then this angle
becomes even negative and the grigri is
even less likely to grab then combined
with the habit of holding the brake side
of the Rope holding Loosely in your hand
which is not holding at all and combined
with the fact that she couldn't see me
and she had no idea when I'm going to
fall resulted into the Rope flying
through her hand
until at some point luckily she tugged
on the rope and I got a really hard
catch
luckily
that was just in time because you're
falling every millisecond faster and
faster and faster and I could have been
on the ground so the takeaway is that
you have to subscribe and if you want
extra Karma points you can visit my
website and don't get lazy hold your
rope don't expect grigri Auto magically
grab you no matter what
because it might not as I just showed
you from my experience
so I'm happy that this happened to me
I'm happy that I can share this story
with you so it doesn't happen to you
and see you in the next video