WEBVTT

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it's kind of good that this has happened

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to you it's kind of good that this is

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because to me and that I survived yeah

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that was a closer to the Grand that

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would have been a ground floor yeah

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actually if I would have fallen not from

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the anchor but few quick draws slower

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good job you've got a YouTube channel

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because yeah

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that's sketchy

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good job you can share that with people

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I think

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yeah so most of the time I get sketchy

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situations that I share on my YouTube

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from my followers however this time it

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was me I took a whipper from the top of

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the route literally from the anchor and

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I instantly realized that this fall is

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not normal I kept falling and falling

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and falling and it's just accelerating

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and then boom sudden stop I look down to

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my Blair she's maybe a few meters up the

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ground which looks normal I look up at

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the distance that I fell and that is

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completely not normal first question

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immediately was how much slack did you

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had did you just gave me 15 arms of

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slack and she was like no there was

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absolutely no slack in the system

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shocked scared confused so I decided to

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go up and try it again but this time I

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took half of that fall as a test fall to

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see what's gonna happen and the same

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thing happened again I'm just falling

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falling falling falling fall I'm falling

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boom sudden stop I look down my Bel Air

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is only one meter off the ground this

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time and she is claiming that she had

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absolutely no slack this time but the

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fall was equally giant so by that time

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my pants were already quite full so I

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asked her to lower me and I wanted to

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investigate what's happening and I found

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out what's happening this was what was

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happening okay go

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boy

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[Music]

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foreign

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[Music]

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that was a lot so basically I got the

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Kink and it stopped

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and I was not pressing on the cam so

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yeah the Rope was slipping through the

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grigri and the reason was basically a

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combination of three different things

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first is that we used very skinny rope

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this was 9.0 millimeters rope it's not a

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brand new rope however it's still in a

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great condition and it doesn't have any

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fuzz so it's still very very slippery it

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goes through grigri very easily as a

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side note petzl says that the optimal

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rope diameter for the grigor is between

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8.9 and 10 and a half millimeters so

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this rope definitely Falls in that range

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but it slides very smoothly through the

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grigri now the second reason was

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friction the Rope went over multiple

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angles on the Rock and zigzagged between

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the quick draws so despite me taking a

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big whipper which normally would result

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into hard Yank on the belayer or on the

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delayed device and would definitely lock

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it this time the force to the blank

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device wasn't that hard because it was

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absorbed verb in the friction and the

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final the third reason or the moment of

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oh [ __ ] or aha was the following when we

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hold the grigri in our hand we are

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supposed to have a good grip on the Rope

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however we get so comfortable that this

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grip becomes very loose and in this

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position the Rope can go through the

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grigri very easily because it creates

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this nice angle feeding into the grigri

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if I would remove the hand from here the

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angle becomes way more Steep and the

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grigri is more grabby

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also the grigri grabs more if the Rope

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going to the climber is more forward

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facing so in this position grigri grabs

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more however in this position grigri

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doesn't grab as much in fact it almost

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doesn't grab at all so this is what

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happened the route was quite overhanging

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and had a lip after which belayer

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couldn't see me anymore so she was

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standing directly under the first bolt

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and as I explained the angle of the

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climber's end of the Rope is important

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in how much the grigri will grab if you

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would walk a bit forward then this angle

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becomes even negative and the grigri is

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even less likely to grab then combined

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with the habit of holding the brake side

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of the Rope holding Loosely in your hand

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which is not holding at all and combined

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with the fact that she couldn't see me

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and she had no idea when I'm going to

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fall resulted into the Rope flying

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through her hand

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until at some point luckily she tugged

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on the rope and I got a really hard

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catch

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luckily

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that was just in time because you're

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falling every millisecond faster and

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faster and faster and I could have been

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on the ground so the takeaway is that

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you have to subscribe and if you want

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extra Karma points you can visit my

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website and don't get lazy hold your

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rope don't expect grigri Auto magically

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grab you no matter what

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because it might not as I just showed

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you from my experience

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so I'm happy that this happened to me

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I'm happy that I can share this story

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with you so it doesn't happen to you

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and see you in the next video