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Hello! Welcome back to a brand new episode
of Make Thrift Buy! And I am SO happy to be
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sitting right here making a video again, because
I’ve been really sick for the past month
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thanks to my chronic illness, and it's just
been so good for the past few days to have
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a bit more energy to sew again. I don’t
know how long it’s going to last, hopefully
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I'm on the mend but – I’m back for this
video at least! And I just want to thank all
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of the people who have been giving me love
and support on instagram - it’s really helped
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me get through some tough days.
Anyway, ONTO THE PROJECT FOR TODAY!
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Oh yeah – and just in case you’re new
here, Make Thrift Buy is a series where you
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guys send in clothes that you’ve found online,
from chain stores and wholesalers and expensive
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designers, and then I try and recreate them
and show you all how to do it in the process.
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Now, Jaelyne Grace, Chloe Underwood wanted
me to try and recreate this ringer-style t-shirt
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with an alien patch on it from Brandy Melville
– which now appears to be gone forever from
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their website – and copied throughout the
cheap fast-fashion world – but never fear!
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Because today we’re going to try and make
this for ourselves. So, let’s go!
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First I’m going to show you how to make
a t-shirt from scratch, but if you just want
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to learn how to make a patch then skip forward
through the video to part 2.
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Okay so, first I grabbed myself a top that
I like the fit and style of.
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And you guys know me - I love my crop tops!
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SO, to make the t-shirt, first I layed down
some stretchy grey jersey, folded over like
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this, with the stretch running in this direction.
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Next, I grabbed the t-shirt that I’m going
to copy, and I folded it in half so that the
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front neckline was on the outside, and then
I matched up the folded edge of the shirt
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with the folded edge of the fabric. Now it
doesn’t matter if the sleeve is running
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off the edge of the fabric here, because I
wasn’t tracing around that part yet – First,
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I was just going to be tracing around THIS
bodice section.
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I started out trying to trace around the shirt
with chalk, but that didn’t work out so
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well because I couldn’t see the chalk lines
on the grey fabric – so I switched to a
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permanent marker. Now this isn’t the best
idea for tracing onto fabric because you can’t
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exactly rub out a permanent marker’s lines
if you make a mistake. So - just be careful
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if you also go down this route.
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So, I traced around the bottom of the shirt
– making the line straight because it was
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curved for some reason – and added a little
bit for hemming allowance. I also traced down
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the side from the armhole, and the shoulder,
which is from the neckline to where the sleeve
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begins. Which gave me these three lines.
Now I just needed to connect them with a neckline
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and armhole line.
This is a little bit trickier to trace. To
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trace out the front neckline, I put my finger
on top of the neckline, folded the fabric
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back to where my finger is, and then I made
a mark with my pen. I did this at both edges
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of the neckline first, and then I worked my
way in. And then when I had a few marks like
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this, I basically just connected the dots
and joined this curve up. And there we go,
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there’s the neckline! Then I did the exact
same thing for the armhole curve, putting
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my finger on top of the sleeve seam, and making
little marks with my pen, and then joining
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these marks up.
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And there we have it, the front bodice-piece
for the t-shirt! Then I simply had to cut
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this out, cutting through both layers of fabric,
which unfolded looks like this.
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Then, I did the exact same thing to copy the
back of the t-shirt, except that I folded
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it the other way so that the back neckline
is on the outside, and I traced out the back
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neckline instead.
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So, these are my front and back pieces.
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Now I needed to make sleeves.
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To copy the sleeves of my original t-shirt,
I folded the fabric over once with the stretch
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running in this direction, and I placed the
top of the sleeve down onto the fold like
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this. Next, making sure that the sleeve was
laying totally flat on the fabric, I traced
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around the sleeve like this.
Similar to tracing around the shirt, the bottom
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and sides of the sleeve are easy to trace
around, and I also added a small seam-allowance
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at the bottom of the sleeve.
Then, to trace around the more difficult armhole
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seam, I again used this method where I placed
a finger on top of the seam that joins the
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sleeve, folded back the t-shirt, made small
marks with my pen, and then joined these marks
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up into a nice curve.
So, this is my sleeve, which I then cut out
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and then copied directly onto some more fabric
in order to give me TWO sleeves.
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And now it’s time to sew everything together!
First I placed the front and back pieces together
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and I sewed them together at the shoulders
like this.
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Then, I lay the shirt out like this with the
right sides facing up, and I am going to attach
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one of the sleeves.
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Okay now watch carefully because this is a
little confusing – I put the sleeve on top
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of the shirt, with the middle of the sleeve
matched up with the shoulder seam. Now I need
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to sew these two pieces together, but as you
can see, the curve of the armhole and the
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curve of the sleeve go in two VERY different
directions.
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But, because I am working with very stretchy
fabric, I can use pins to solve this!
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So, first I put a pin in the middle, matching
up the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder
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seam.
Then I pinned the sleeve on all the way down
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ONE side only. It’s easiest to do one side
of each sleeve at a time, because otherwise
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things will get very bunched up.
So with half the sleeve pinned on, I sewed
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it on to the bodice like this, using a zig-zag
stitch.
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And once that side is sewn on, I pinned the
other half of the sleeve to the bodice and
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sewed it on in the same way.
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I repeated this for the other sleeve, and
now I had something resembling a t-shirt.
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Next, with the fabrics facing right-sides
together, I’m going to sew the arms and
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the sides together like this.
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Things will work out best if you first sew
from the underarm to the end of the sleeve,
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and then from the underarm down the side of
the shirt.
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Now I have a t-shirt with raw edges, and I’m
going to finish it off by adding the contrasting
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neckline and armhole bindings.
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So to figure out how much material I would
need for the neckline binding, I measured
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the circumference of the neckhole which came
out at 24 inches. I then took 4 inches off
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this measurement.
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Next, I cut out a strip of black jersey fabric
which is what I'm going to be using for my
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contrasting binding. This strip is 20 inches
long. I was able to take away 4 inches from
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the neckhole measurement because this fabric
was extremely stretchy, but you will have
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to adjust this depending on the stretch of
your fabrics.
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A good test to make sure that you have cut
a long-enough strip of fabric is to fold this
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strip in half, place it on the front of your
neckline, and, with your fingers holding it
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in place, stretching the fabric and kind of
"walking” it along the neckline like this.
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Next, with this strip folded in half (right
sides together), I sewed down the edges.
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Then, I turned it the right way around,
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folded
it in half length-ways,
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then, I quartered it with pins.
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I did the same thing with the
neckline, quartering it with pins, so two
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pins at each of the shoulder seams, and one
in the centre back, and one in the centre
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front. Now I’m going to sew these two together!
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To do this, I placed the neck binding onto
the machine first with the raw edges facing
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THIS way. The shirt goes on next, and the
binding then goes on top of the neckline,
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with the raw edges matching up, and at the
same time I also matched up two of the pins.
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Removing these pins so I don’t sew over
them, I’m going to then sew the two pieces
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together, stretching the binding so that the
next set of pins match up.
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I’m sewing the two together with about an
eight of an inch seam allowance.
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I’m also using a straight stitch to sew
the neckline on, because next I am going to
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overlock (or, serge) the stitches, but if
you don’t have an overlocker then you should
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be using a zig-zag stitch at this point.
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So, with the neck binding sewn on and flipped
around the right way it looks like this, and
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I'm also give everything a good iron to ensure
that it lays flat.
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Now, going to make contrasting bindings for
the sleeves and I'm going to use a very similar
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method. So I cut out a strip of black fabric
that’s shorter than the armhole by about
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2 inches, so, with the strip folded over in
two it looks like this.
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I then sew the strip into a loop by stitching
down here, cutting off the excess fabric,
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turning it around so that the seam is on the
inside, folding this in half lengthways,
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and then placing it over the top of the armhole,
with the raw edges of both fabrics up, matching
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and then I sew it on all the way around
the armhole like this.
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Now I’m not bothering with pins this time,
I’m just stretching the black binding fabric
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slightly as I sew, but if you want to be a
bit more accurate then you should quarter
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everything with pins just like you did for
the neckline.
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Then, to hem the bottom of the shirt, I folded
the raw edge up inside the shirt about one
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inch, pinned everything in place, and then
I went over the top of the fabric with my
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twin-needle, and I also used my walking foot.
Hemming stretch fabrics can be difficult,
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but I find that this combination with the
walking foot and the twin needle stops the
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fabric from ruffling. If you don’t have
these attachments then you can always place
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a piece of paper underneath while you sew
and zig-zag stitch your way along the hem,
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tearing off the paper when you’re done.
AND, that’s how I make a t-shirt! And now
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I can move onto part 2.
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Sooo I’ve never made a patch before, and
I also don’t really have any proper patch-making
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materials on me, so I'm going to be honest
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I grabbed myself this scrap piece of plain
white cotton, which I pre-ironed to make it
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nice and flat. And then I drew an alien’s
face onto it with a pencil, using the original
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t-shirt image to help guide me.
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I figured that I needed something to stabalize
the patch so I grabbed some interfacing that
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I already owned, and I cut out a small square
of this and ironed it onto the back of the
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alien drawing.
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Next, with a very narrow zig-zag stitch, I
went carefully around the outsides of the
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alien’s head, following the pencil line
as closely as possible.
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And, I ended up with this!
In order to stop the patch from fraying when
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I eventually cut it, I’m going to add fabric
glue all around the edges. So I brushed the
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fabric glue on in a thin layer, both around
the edges of the stitches and also a little
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bit on top of the stitches, just in case I
accidentally cut through any later, to stop
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them unraveling.
Next, I put the fabric into an embroidery
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hoop and I used an embroidery needle and thread
and a satin stitch to fill in the eyes.
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I’ve talked about how to make a satin stitch
in many other videos which I’ll link in
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the description, but really quickly, you do
a satin stitch by going UP at one edge of
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your shape, the bringing your needle down
at the OTHER edge of the shape, and then pulling
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the thread through. Then, you simply push
your needle up right NEXT to the spot where
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your needle just went down, bring your needle
over to the other side of the shape, and back
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down again, and repeat this until your shape
is filled in with these long stitches!
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And always make sure when you’re done to
flip it over to the back and tie a couple
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of knots to stop the threads from coming loose.
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So once I’d embroidered both the eyes, I
grabbed these iron-on patches, which you should
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be able to find at most craft stores.
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I roughly cut out the alien’s face, and
then I sewed the alien onto the iron-on patch
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like this.
Basically, I just used a straight stitch to
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go over the top of the already-exisiting zig-zag
stitch.
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Then, using some sharp fabric scissors, I
cut out the alien’s face by going as close
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to the zig-zag stitches as possible. And,
the fabric shouldn’t fray now because of
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all the fabric glue that I used earlier (which,
by the way, I allowed to dry before cutting
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this out).
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So, here’s my patch! And I’m so happy
with how it turned out!
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Now in order to attach it to the shirt, all
I'm going to have to do is to iron it on because
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the back of the patch has this heat-activated
glue.
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So, I layed the patch down on the appropriate
spot on the shirt, covered it with some cotton
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to protect it, and then following the instructions
on the iron-on patch I held my iron down on
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top of it for 20 seconds.
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And now I'm finally done!
SO, after all of that, how did the shirt turn out?
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How did I go?
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[music plays]
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So my conclusion is: [scissor snipping sound
effect].
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I love how this turned out! And this was a
project that had surprisingly few hiccups
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for a project of mine. But if you didn't want
to make an entire t-shirt from scratch, then
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you could always just get a t-shirt that you
liked and make your own patch and stick it
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on the front. You can really make this project
as easy or as difficult as you want to! And
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I really want to make a bunch of other patches
now and put them on cute, different-coloured,
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ringer-style t-shirts. What kind of simple
embroidered patches could I make? If you have
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any ideas, let me know in the comments down
below!
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As always, thank so much for watching, thanks
for sharing, liking, supporting my videos,
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all of that, the kind words you leave on instagram
and in the comments - anyway, I’ll see you
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all in my next video, bye!
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Thank you to all of my supporters on Patreon
who helped to make this video possible. To
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become my patreon supporter, go to patreon.com/annikavictoria.