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Hello! Welcome back to a brand new episode[br]of Make Thrift Buy! And I am SO happy to be

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sitting right here making a video again, because[br]I’ve been really sick for the past month

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thanks to my chronic illness, and it's just[br]been so good for the past few days to have

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a bit more energy to sew again. I don’t[br]know how long it’s going to last, hopefully

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I'm on the mend but – I’m back for this[br]video at least! And I just want to thank all

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of the people who have been giving me love[br]and support on instagram - it’s really helped

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me get through some tough days.[br]Anyway, ONTO THE PROJECT FOR TODAY!

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Oh yeah – and just in case you’re new[br]here, Make Thrift Buy is a series where you

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guys send in clothes that you’ve found online,[br]from chain stores and wholesalers and expensive

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designers, and then I try and recreate them[br]and show you all how to do it in the process.

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Now, Jaelyne Grace, Chloe Underwood wanted[br]me to try and recreate this ringer-style t-shirt

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with an alien patch on it from Brandy Melville[br]– which now appears to be gone forever from

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their website – and copied throughout the[br]cheap fast-fashion world – but never fear!

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Because today we’re going to try and make[br]this for ourselves. So, let’s go!

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First I’m going to show you how to make[br]a t-shirt from scratch, but if you just want

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to learn how to make a patch then skip forward[br]through the video to part 2.

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Okay so, first I grabbed myself a top that[br]I like the fit and style of.

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And you guys know me - I love my crop tops!

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SO, to make the t-shirt, first I layed down[br]some stretchy grey jersey, folded over like

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this, with the stretch running in this direction.

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Next, I grabbed the t-shirt that I’m going[br]to copy, and I folded it in half so that the

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front neckline was on the outside, and then[br]I matched up the folded edge of the shirt

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with the folded edge of the fabric. Now it[br]doesn’t matter if the sleeve is running

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off the edge of the fabric here, because I[br]wasn’t tracing around that part yet – First,

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I was just going to be tracing around THIS[br]bodice section.

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I started out trying to trace around the shirt[br]with chalk, but that didn’t work out so

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well because I couldn’t see the chalk lines[br]on the grey fabric – so I switched to a

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permanent marker. Now this isn’t the best[br]idea for tracing onto fabric because you can’t

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exactly rub out a permanent marker’s lines[br]if you make a mistake. So - just be careful

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if you also go down this route.

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So, I traced around the bottom of the shirt[br]– making the line straight because it was

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curved for some reason – and added a little[br]bit for hemming allowance. I also traced down

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the side from the armhole, and the shoulder,[br]which is from the neckline to where the sleeve

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begins. Which gave me these three lines.[br]Now I just needed to connect them with a neckline

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and armhole line.[br]This is a little bit trickier to trace. To

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trace out the front neckline, I put my finger[br]on top of the neckline, folded the fabric

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back to where my finger is, and then I made[br]a mark with my pen. I did this at both edges

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of the neckline first, and then I worked my[br]way in. And then when I had a few marks like

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this, I basically just connected the dots[br]and joined this curve up. And there we go,

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there’s the neckline! Then I did the exact[br]same thing for the armhole curve, putting

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my finger on top of the sleeve seam, and making[br]little marks with my pen, and then joining

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these marks up.

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And there we have it, the front bodice-piece[br]for the t-shirt! Then I simply had to cut

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this out, cutting through both layers of fabric,[br]which unfolded looks like this.

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Then, I did the exact same thing to copy the[br]back of the t-shirt, except that I folded

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it the other way so that the back neckline[br]is on the outside, and I traced out the back

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neckline instead.

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So, these are my front and back pieces.

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Now I needed to make sleeves.

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To copy the sleeves of my original t-shirt,[br]I folded the fabric over once with the stretch

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running in this direction, and I placed the[br]top of the sleeve down onto the fold like

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this. Next, making sure that the sleeve was[br]laying totally flat on the fabric, I traced

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around the sleeve like this.[br]Similar to tracing around the shirt, the bottom

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and sides of the sleeve are easy to trace[br]around, and I also added a small seam-allowance

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at the bottom of the sleeve.[br]Then, to trace around the more difficult armhole

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seam, I again used this method where I placed[br]a finger on top of the seam that joins the

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sleeve, folded back the t-shirt, made small[br]marks with my pen, and then joined these marks

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up into a nice curve.[br]So, this is my sleeve, which I then cut out

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and then copied directly onto some more fabric[br]in order to give me TWO sleeves.

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And now it’s time to sew everything together![br]First I placed the front and back pieces together

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and I sewed them together at the shoulders[br]like this.

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Then, I lay the shirt out like this with the[br]right sides facing up, and I am going to attach

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one of the sleeves.

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Okay now watch carefully because this is a[br]little confusing – I put the sleeve on top

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of the shirt, with the middle of the sleeve[br]matched up with the shoulder seam. Now I need

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to sew these two pieces together, but as you[br]can see, the curve of the armhole and the

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curve of the sleeve go in two VERY different[br]directions.

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But, because I am working with very stretchy[br]fabric, I can use pins to solve this!

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So, first I put a pin in the middle, matching[br]up the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder

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seam.[br]Then I pinned the sleeve on all the way down

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ONE side only. It’s easiest to do one side[br]of each sleeve at a time, because otherwise

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things will get very bunched up.[br]So with half the sleeve pinned on, I sewed

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it on to the bodice like this, using a zig-zag[br]stitch.

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And once that side is sewn on, I pinned the[br]other half of the sleeve to the bodice and

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sewed it on in the same way.

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I repeated this for the other sleeve, and[br]now I had something resembling a t-shirt.

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Next, with the fabrics facing right-sides[br]together, I’m going to sew the arms and

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the sides together like this.

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Things will work out best if you first sew[br]from the underarm to the end of the sleeve,

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and then from the underarm down the side of[br]the shirt.

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Now I have a t-shirt with raw edges, and I’m[br]going to finish it off by adding the contrasting

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neckline and armhole bindings.

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So to figure out how much material I would[br]need for the neckline binding, I measured

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the circumference of the neckhole which came[br]out at 24 inches. I then took 4 inches off

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this measurement.

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Next, I cut out a strip of black jersey fabric[br]which is what I'm going to be using for my

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contrasting binding. This strip is 20 inches[br]long. I was able to take away 4 inches from

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the neckhole measurement because this fabric[br]was extremely stretchy, but you will have

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to adjust this depending on the stretch of[br]your fabrics.

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A good test to make sure that you have cut[br]a long-enough strip of fabric is to fold this

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strip in half, place it on the front of your[br]neckline, and, with your fingers holding it

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in place, stretching the fabric and kind of[br]"walking” it along the neckline like this.

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Next, with this strip folded in half (right[br]sides together), I sewed down the edges.

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Then, I turned it the right way around,

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folded[br]it in half length-ways,

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then, I quartered it with pins.

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I did the same thing with the[br]neckline, quartering it with pins, so two

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pins at each of the shoulder seams, and one[br]in the centre back, and one in the centre

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front. Now I’m going to sew these two together!

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To do this, I placed the neck binding onto[br]the machine first with the raw edges facing

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THIS way. The shirt goes on next, and the[br]binding then goes on top of the neckline,

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with the raw edges matching up, and at the[br]same time I also matched up two of the pins.

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Removing these pins so I don’t sew over[br]them, I’m going to then sew the two pieces

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together, stretching the binding so that the[br]next set of pins match up.

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I’m sewing the two together with about an[br]eight of an inch seam allowance.

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I’m also using a straight stitch to sew[br]the neckline on, because next I am going to

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overlock (or, serge) the stitches, but if[br]you don’t have an overlocker then you should

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be using a zig-zag stitch at this point.

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So, with the neck binding sewn on and flipped[br]around the right way it looks like this, and

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I'm also give everything a good iron to ensure[br]that it lays flat.

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Now, going to make contrasting bindings for[br]the sleeves and I'm going to use a very similar

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method. So I cut out a strip of black fabric[br]that’s shorter than the armhole by about

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2 inches, so, with the strip folded over in[br]two it looks like this.

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I then sew the strip into a loop by stitching[br]down here, cutting off the excess fabric,

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turning it around so that the seam is on the[br]inside, folding this in half lengthways,

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and then placing it over the top of the armhole,[br]with the raw edges of both fabrics up, matching

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and then I sew it on all the way around[br]the armhole like this.

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Now I’m not bothering with pins this time,[br]I’m just stretching the black binding fabric

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slightly as I sew, but if you want to be a[br]bit more accurate then you should quarter

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everything with pins just like you did for[br]the neckline.

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Then, to hem the bottom of the shirt, I folded[br]the raw edge up inside the shirt about one

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inch, pinned everything in place, and then[br]I went over the top of the fabric with my

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twin-needle, and I also used my walking foot.[br]Hemming stretch fabrics can be difficult,

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but I find that this combination with the[br]walking foot and the twin needle stops the

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fabric from ruffling. If you don’t have[br]these attachments then you can always place

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a piece of paper underneath while you sew[br]and zig-zag stitch your way along the hem,

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tearing off the paper when you’re done.[br]AND, that’s how I make a t-shirt! And now

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I can move onto part 2.

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Sooo I’ve never made a patch before, and[br]I also don’t really have any proper patch-making

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materials on me, so I'm going to be honest[br]- I’m kind of making this up as I go along.

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I grabbed myself this scrap piece of plain[br]white cotton, which I pre-ironed to make it

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nice and flat. And then I drew an alien’s[br]face onto it with a pencil, using the original

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t-shirt image to help guide me.

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I figured that I needed something to stabalize[br]the patch so I grabbed some interfacing that

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I already owned, and I cut out a small square[br]of this and ironed it onto the back of the

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alien drawing.

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Next, with a very narrow zig-zag stitch, I[br]went carefully around the outsides of the

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alien’s head, following the pencil line[br]as closely as possible.

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And, I ended up with this![br]In order to stop the patch from fraying when

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I eventually cut it, I’m going to add fabric[br]glue all around the edges. So I brushed the

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fabric glue on in a thin layer, both around[br]the edges of the stitches and also a little

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bit on top of the stitches, just in case I[br]accidentally cut through any later, to stop

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them unraveling.[br]Next, I put the fabric into an embroidery

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hoop and I used an embroidery needle and thread[br]and a satin stitch to fill in the eyes.

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I’ve talked about how to make a satin stitch[br]in many other videos which I’ll link in

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the description, but really quickly, you do[br]a satin stitch by going UP at one edge of

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your shape, the bringing your needle down[br]at the OTHER edge of the shape, and then pulling

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the thread through. Then, you simply push[br]your needle up right NEXT to the spot where

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your needle just went down, bring your needle[br]over to the other side of the shape, and back

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down again, and repeat this until your shape[br]is filled in with these long stitches!

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And always make sure when you’re done to[br]flip it over to the back and tie a couple

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of knots to stop the threads from coming loose.

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So once I’d embroidered both the eyes, I[br]grabbed these iron-on patches, which you should

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be able to find at most craft stores.

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I roughly cut out the alien’s face, and[br]then I sewed the alien onto the iron-on patch

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like this.[br]Basically, I just used a straight stitch to

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go over the top of the already-exisiting zig-zag[br]stitch.

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Then, using some sharp fabric scissors, I[br]cut out the alien’s face by going as close

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to the zig-zag stitches as possible. And,[br]the fabric shouldn’t fray now because of

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all the fabric glue that I used earlier (which,[br]by the way, I allowed to dry before cutting

0:11:08.300,0:11:09.040
this out).

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So, here’s my patch! And I’m so happy[br]with how it turned out!

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Now in order to attach it to the shirt, all[br]I'm going to have to do is to iron it on because

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the back of the patch has this heat-activated[br]glue.

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So, I layed the patch down on the appropriate[br]spot on the shirt, covered it with some cotton

0:11:23.250,0:11:27.970
to protect it, and then following the instructions[br]on the iron-on patch I held my iron down on

0:11:27.970,0:11:29.760
top of it for 20 seconds.

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And now I'm finally done![br]SO, after all of that, how did the shirt turn out?

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How did I go?

0:11:34.340,0:11:35.800
[music plays]

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So my conclusion is: [scissor snipping sound[br]effect].

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I love how this turned out! And this was a[br]project that had surprisingly few hiccups

0:12:00.269,0:12:03.980
for a project of mine. But if you didn't want[br]to make an entire t-shirt from scratch, then

0:12:03.980,0:12:08.320
you could always just get a t-shirt that you[br]liked and make your own patch and stick it

0:12:08.320,0:12:12.660
on the front. You can really make this project[br]as easy or as difficult as you want to! And

0:12:12.660,0:12:17.420
I really want to make a bunch of other patches[br]now and put them on cute, different-coloured,

0:12:17.420,0:12:21.880
ringer-style t-shirts. What kind of simple[br]embroidered patches could I make? If you have

0:12:21.880,0:12:23.010
any ideas, let me know in the comments down[br]below!

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As always, thank so much for watching, thanks[br]for sharing, liking, supporting my videos,

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all of that, the kind words you leave on instagram[br]and in the comments - anyway, I’ll see you

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all in my next video, bye!

0:12:32.480,0:12:36.800
Thank you to all of my supporters on Patreon[br]who helped to make this video possible. To

0:12:36.800,0:12:39.450
become my patreon supporter, go to patreon.com/annikavictoria.