How Fuzzy is Too Fuzzy? How Soft is too Soft?

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whoa so

it's not the sound that you want to hear

when you're out climbing

is it bad if I scream behind the camera?

how fuzzy is too fuzzy

this is the rope that i used for about

two years of intense climbing

or at least this is the end of this rope

if i compare to the middle this is how

the middle of the same rope looks

and as you can see it's a huge

difference

so the question is should i worry about

this fuzziness or another question that

i see climbers disagree a lot on is if i

can squeeze my rope like this does it

mean that inside core strands are

damaged or no

so to avoid breaking my back on homemade

experiments

yeah as some of you noticed

it can be quite stressful

so not this time. This time i decided to

reach out to Mammut and ask if by any

chance i could come over and nerd with

their engineers

how dangerous is this?

(laughs) we will find out

so this is a product developer from

Mammut

and you said you're an expert in textiles

would you whip on this?

(uncomfortable noises)

can we destroy this rope? I would say the

core's joints won't fail if it's a normal

sport climbing fall

within the first fall?

no no no not the first fall.

Would you whip on this?

Oh yes definitely.

How many times?

So this rope is not the same rope that

we used in an experiment. That one was a

little bit worse than this

and it kind of died.

Can ropes die?

Anyway the goal was to find out what

happens if you take a huge fall

and this soft spot hits on your

quickdraw

exactly on the peak force and by the way

this video is not sponsored but in case

you don't know mammut is one of the

oldest companies making climbing ropes

so they have some serious knowledge

about that so I wanted to know everything.

Let's get nerdy! I have a

bunch of questions from me and my

followers

Sounds great!

Ah. You're probably gonna add

10 000 more questions

I'm sorry

and by the way the questions that you

guys sent

had some

serious sense of practicality

a cat pees on my rope how bad is that?

Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that?

If you have a dry rope

we test it with human pee

because i mean if you're on a multipitch

and you have to go

so you actually did the testing on this?

yes and

the answer is no it's not dangerous.

I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more

aggressive than a human pee?

hey let's go do some science

so this is where the rope testing magic

happens and this is where you get those

six seven eight or whatever falls on the

rope.

Exactly yeah.

Statistics.

The scenario is like really really hard

like we have a fall factor of around 1.7

we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram

steel mass which is like super static.

What are the forces on standard tests?

For a single rope it's

around like 8 to 9 KN on the edge...

For the first fall?

For the first fall.

And... we had the first problem.

so called standard rope test that every

manufacturer does is super extreme in

order to make it more like a real

climbing fall we needed to reduce it

below 4 kilonewtons and if you ask why 4

it means that you haven't seen these two

videos where we tried to create their

hardest real climbing falls and measure

the forces of them.

That's why I said like maybe we try like

with a new rope to get like a feeling

like what falling height we need to have

like around this less than 4k and then

we switch to your rope

don't look guess 2km 2k

i think it's less

wow two and a half as i said these guys

are really good it took only one fall

and we got the force of two and a half

kilonewtons on a brand new rope and that

was perfect because we were estimating

that once we swapped the ropes to the

old one the force will go slightly

higher because all the ropes don't

absorb the impact as well and it's going

to be a perfect representation of

realistic

hard climbing fall so here's the tricky

part

when you fall on rock

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sometimes it happens but almost the same

spot hits the

top carabiner yeah

and now the tricky part is how to place

that spot that it would be on a peak

force on the carbonyl

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not easy or heart disease as you can

imagine once the fall happens the rope

stretches and that soft spot that we are

trying to hit will move

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you thought it's gonna be easy

no no

i knew it will be exactly like this the

force to the rope will start increasing

increasing increasing increasing

increasing and at some point reaches the

maximum and then the force will start

dropping dropping dropping dropping

dropping

so the challenge is how to position the

soft spot

that it would move over the quick draw

as close to the peak of the force with

this

small forward scenario a new rope oh

it's about like what 400

300 400 500 right

a lot so neuro would hold about 400

falls on realistic fall yeah let's see

what happens if we put that damaged rope

and see

if it's hundreds or it's just few

vietnam

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do you think we will hit that spot or we

will be very far off

i think we hit it yeah

where is it now like 30 centimeters

below

yeah it's around here now

and the rope is tense so probably this

will move up

and

how much we will see

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so we overshoot the soft spot just by a

little bit so we will try to readjust

now and

see if we can hit it more perfectly

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so we managed to hit the spot

at

2.47 kilonewtons of force now we will

try to increase the fall a little bit to

get to really hard falls 20 30

centimeters

let's see if we will still stay in

the damaged spot where it will just

stretch over

so we broke the shift

we broke the shift after two falls

and you said it's gonna last

no but that's what i said like the

sheath will break

by force

the force was

only two points

only 2.1 kilonewtons and the shift

broken

so

if your rope is

soft good luck

if the sheath is already damaged like we

saw it like now this will lead like to

cut its sheath like immediately but the

the good thing is that the rope will not

slap snap

because the core strands like are

still intact so how many falls it would

take now to completely snap the rope

that's a good question i never tested

this

but we could do this i guess we can do

at least like two or three folds now

only on the course yes yes guess how

many falls it's going to take

20 20 yeah wow so it took only two falls

to completely shrink this sheath but the

good thing is like a rope is constructed

in a way that the sheath only takes

around like 10 to 20

of the load

and the rest like the the

load bearing structure is basically only

the core

okay so

the question is if you take a rope and

you squeeze it so you feel that it's

soft completely outside does it mean

that the core is damaged or no no no

because a lot of properties think that

it's damaged inside the core is still

intact like if i would cut the rope at

that spot would i find some damage

inside of the core strands it's

difficult to say because over time the

core strands also when we do fall tests

you can see that it gets a little bit

more hairy

if you would cut it open but it's just

a couple of filaments that might have

broken but it's not that an entire core

strand is broken but it's weakened for

sure

let's see if we can snap this room now

yeah so how many phones you set

i don't know

10 to 20 10 to 20. let's see so

this is one multifilament multifilament

made out of multiple filaments yes

how much

280. this is 280 inside of this so if i

would take one

what force that one thing would hold

well you would not test it like this

because a multifilament you look at it

as the entire thing but what i can tell

you that this core strand

would hold 180 kilos and we are not even

reaching very hard falls yet this is

nothing

so you said 20 how many strands are

inside

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two of eight

so you set 20 false and we have 10 to 20

20. apart from standard drop tests what

are other tests that are performed on

climbing ropes what we usually do is

also test the abrasion resistance of the

rope so there we have an in-house

developed testing method so it's a

machine which pulls a rope over a sharp

metal edge and we are counting how many

cycles it takes for actually damaging

the shaft

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we have like two parts now broken so we

have one part and two parts broken yeah

if we talk about abrasion resistant i

have some interesting stuff to show is

200 cycles so 200 times

back and forth here you see a classic

rope so it does not have any treatment

impregnation it's a 9.5 it's pretty worn

out it is worn out it's at the point

where i would consider maybe even

cutting this yes and you should then

next to it we have

also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment

what that's a huge difference yes that's

exactly the same rope but just dry treat

it yes that's a huge huge difference

it feels a little bit burnt like when

you

touch it

it definitely got hot

like on the edge

so your six lives got a bit damaged but

that's good to know and you can climb

you can climb you would climb on this i

mean the brits

was done by jean villanova like with a

sheet colored rope like from the

beginning on i think in the second pitch

of that pitch he had a stone fall and

his rope already got cut like the sheet

was completely damaged and he did the

whole fits reverse with this rope then

he like repaired a lot over it does the

percentage of sheaf versus core strands

it's not always the same in sport

climbing ropes yeah or like climbing

ropes in general it's not always the

same now

and what does it depend on well for us

it depends on what kind of rope we want

to make sport climbing

wait let me show you something show me

something okay so you have the interplay

of both the percentage of material that

is the chef but also

how the chef was constructed for example

here on this rope we have more chef

twines so

if you would count these

singular ones they are much more than on

this chef oh yeah that's almost double

no

no no it isn't but it's just a slight

difference but if you check out the

surface

you can see that here the little cubes

that they form are smaller

than on this one so here we have a super

fine surface of the of the chef so if

you for example would touch this one it

feels much rougher yeah

so this is also what makes it more

durable

so we are still very far from twenty but

what's the maybe i get some coffee

huh it was already 3.4 yeah it's

increasing and increasing so the dynamic

performance of the rope gets low and

lower and lower this one here is our

workhorse construction it does not have

any treatment but we're using the best

and the finest yarns that we have to

make this construction and it also i

would say you know it's as good as the

dry rope so why

not all ropes are made this way where we

have finer

construction because price matters yeah

now i would like to see not 200 cycles

but 1 000. yes they come here oh really

not the 2000 but the 500. i would climb

with

this one and with this one or if i have

a risky day i would choose this

do you have risky days

sometimes turns out size or diameter is

not all that matters when we talk about

durability construction and extra

treatments might have a bigger impact

it's a crazy difference now having in

mind that all of them will run through

the same process to the point where

super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked

completely fine after 500 of cycles of

dragging it across the sharp edge this

one looks quite good

like a little bit fuzzy but i would

definitely use it however much thicker

9.5 millimeters rope but old

construction and no treatments were

completely

done

my guess is five more falls and we

snapped think we have to increase

otherwise yeah let's increase everybody

wants harder falls but it's already

getting harder we went yeah two and a

half to three and a half yeah to

increase

you can't just dropping keep dropping

yeah keep dropping and we'll get coffee

what do you want coffee espresso

are you asking the viewer with milk are

you sending me yes

one interesting observation i got while

i was making this intro animation

which by the way took me multiple days

and multiple attempts

was that while the rope is new

the file glides over the rope very

smoothly and it's pretty hard to make

any damage to it but once the rope

starts becoming fuzzy it becomes easier

to make some extra damage so it felt

like the

fuzziness or the damage to the rope is

kind of exponential the worse it gets

the easier it is to make it even worse

oh yeah let's do again all these six

tracks left

whoa so

okay

so you can come back already with your

coffee so the force went lower but one

strand snapped

too snapped but the sound of the strand

snapping was good

is it bad if i scream behind the camera

it's not the sound that you want to hear

when you're out climbing

okay the fun part how fuzzy is too fuzzy

or how soft the rope is too soft when

should people actually cut it i mean you

pull the rope through your hands how to

to check the ropes this you should do on

a regular basis and what are you doing

when you're pulling well on the one hand

i feel the rope so i feel the how the

rope behaves if it's super soft if it's

thicker and at the same time you know

you you pull it over your finger and you

look at it so you do like a visual

inspection

beautiful rope wood whip

would you whip you would whip you would

see oh the force went lower again

so basically the less core strands we

have the better the rope is the softer

the catch

i wouldn't see it that way but

if you want a soft catch just break the

rope

so let's say i'm running my rope through

my hand and i find that spot which is

softer so how do i know if it's already

bad

or first consider the whole rope i mean

if you have a really soft rope because

they're hard i mean some ropes are

already soft when you you buy them in

the store huh i would say the hour ropes

are a little bit stiffer in general and

we do that to make them more

long-lasting but if your whole rope is

very soft and you have a spot which is

just a little bit softer

i would say i would not like say oh

that's super dangerous huh but if you

have

the rope is generally really stiff and

then you have one spot with this ultra

soft then you know

something is not right there and exactly

what's not right there

hey there is so many things that it

could be so as an example if i would be

just looking into this piece of the rope

it would be pretty difficult to say how

soft it needs to be and if i should cut

it

but

if i compare it to the middle of the

same rope i can clearly see a big

difference so this clearly is far from

what it used to be and it's better to

cut this end and if you want some tips

on cutting ropes check out this video

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i don't think we can do another one

unfortunately the rope kept stretching

and stretching and stretching until we

almost reached the bottom of the drop

tower and we couldn't do any more

testing

however we decided to show what happens

if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging

on only core strands and you touch the

core strands with the knife

test

it just barely dude

you went too long

what happened

but what happened

so it didn't broke so i was right with

10 to 20 right

yes thanks

so basically what we got is

running very damaged rope on relatively

hard dish

maybe to normal foil yeah real case

scenario ripped the sheath of the rope

in just two falls which is very

dangerous but then it was good to see

that the rope did not snapped

and only the core strands kept holding

for

multiple more falls so

but when he touched barely with the

sharp knife the core strands he just

barely touched it it snapped

so if your

shift gets away

and then your rope runs across something

sharp on the rock super dangerous

yeah

i think now we're coming to the second

scenario you wanna you wanna show when

it comes to sharp edge scenarios yeah

like the ropes don't have this high

safety margin

i hope that you are subscribed because

the next experiment that i'm gonna show

in the next video is gonna blow your

mind and probably change a little bit

the way you care about your climbing

equipment

okay now i need you to pee

come on