1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,070 [Music] 2 00:00:05,070 --> 00:00:08,800 [Music] 3 00:00:08,800 --> 00:00:11,780 4 00:00:11,780 --> 00:00:20,240 [Music] 5 00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:21,840 whoa so 6 00:00:21,840 --> 00:00:23,519 it's not the sound that you want to hear 7 00:00:23,519 --> 00:00:25,060 when you're out climbing 8 00:00:25,060 --> 00:00:29,119 is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 9 00:00:29,279 --> 00:00:32,800 how fuzzy is too fuzzy 10 00:00:32,800 --> 00:00:34,880 this is the rope that i used for about 11 00:00:34,880 --> 00:00:37,680 two years of intense climbing 12 00:00:37,680 --> 00:00:40,000 or at least this is the end of this rope 13 00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,239 if i compare to the middle this is how 14 00:00:42,239 --> 00:00:45,039 the middle of the same rope looks 15 00:00:45,039 --> 00:00:47,200 and as you can see it's a huge 16 00:00:47,200 --> 00:00:49,039 difference 17 00:00:49,039 --> 00:00:51,760 so the question is should i worry about 18 00:00:51,760 --> 00:00:54,079 this fuzziness or another question that 19 00:00:54,079 --> 00:00:57,360 i see climbers disagree a lot on is if i 20 00:00:57,360 --> 00:01:00,160 can squeeze my rope like this does it 21 00:01:00,160 --> 00:01:02,800 mean that inside core strands are 22 00:01:02,800 --> 00:01:04,500 damaged or no 23 00:01:04,500 --> 00:01:07,777 so to avoid breaking my back on homemade 24 00:01:07,777 --> 00:01:10,152 experiments 25 00:01:10,152 --> 00:01:12,560 yeah as some of you noticed 26 00:01:12,560 --> 00:01:14,240 it can be quite stressful 27 00:01:14,240 --> 00:01:16,960 so not this time. This time i decided to 28 00:01:16,960 --> 00:01:19,920 reach out to Mammut and ask if by any 29 00:01:19,920 --> 00:01:22,479 chance i could come over and nerd with 30 00:01:22,479 --> 00:01:23,740 their engineers 31 00:01:23,740 --> 00:01:24,830 how dangerous is this? 32 00:01:24,830 --> 00:01:26,740 (laughs) we will find out 33 00:01:26,740 --> 00:01:28,970 so this is a product developer from 34 00:01:28,970 --> 00:01:30,080 Mammut 35 00:01:30,080 --> 00:01:32,560 and you said you're an expert in textiles 36 00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,044 would you whip on this? 37 00:01:34,044 --> 00:01:36,200 (uncomfortable noises) 38 00:01:37,200 --> 00:01:39,200 can we destroy this rope? I would say the 39 00:01:39,200 --> 00:01:41,920 core's joints won't fail if it's a normal 40 00:01:41,920 --> 00:01:42,920 sport climbing fall 41 00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:44,500 within the first fall? 42 00:01:44,500 --> 00:01:46,079 no no no not the first fall. 43 00:01:46,079 --> 00:01:47,569 Would you whip on this? 44 00:01:47,569 --> 00:01:48,739 Oh yes definitely. 45 00:01:48,739 --> 00:01:51,600 How many times? 46 00:01:51,600 --> 00:01:54,000 So this rope is not the same rope that 47 00:01:54,000 --> 00:01:56,640 we used in an experiment. That one was a 48 00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:58,980 little bit worse than this 49 00:01:58,980 --> 00:02:00,620 and it kind of died. 50 00:02:00,620 --> 00:02:02,060 Can ropes die? 51 00:02:02,060 --> 00:02:04,060 Anyway the goal was to find out what 52 00:02:04,060 --> 00:02:06,719 happens if you take a huge fall 53 00:02:06,719 --> 00:02:09,520 and this soft spot hits on your 54 00:02:09,520 --> 00:02:10,560 quickdraw 55 00:02:10,560 --> 00:02:13,360 exactly on the peak force and by the way 56 00:02:13,360 --> 00:02:16,239 this video is not sponsored but in case 57 00:02:16,239 --> 00:02:18,319 you don't know mammut is one of the 58 00:02:18,319 --> 00:02:21,440 oldest companies making climbing ropes 59 00:02:21,440 --> 00:02:23,760 so they have some serious knowledge 60 00:02:23,760 --> 00:02:27,059 about that so I wanted to know everything. 61 00:02:27,059 --> 00:02:28,720 Let's get nerdy! I have a 62 00:02:28,720 --> 00:02:31,120 bunch of questions from me and my 63 00:02:31,120 --> 00:02:31,850 followers 64 00:02:31,850 --> 00:02:32,830 Sounds great! 65 00:02:32,830 --> 00:02:34,299 Ah. You're probably gonna add 66 00:02:34,299 --> 00:02:35,519 10 000 more questions 67 00:02:35,519 --> 00:02:36,400 I'm sorry 68 00:02:36,400 --> 00:02:38,480 and by the way the questions that you 69 00:02:38,480 --> 00:02:39,840 guys sent 70 00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:40,959 had some 71 00:02:40,959 --> 00:02:43,879 serious sense of practicality 72 00:02:43,879 --> 00:02:47,599 a cat pees on my rope how bad is that? 73 00:02:47,599 --> 00:02:50,959 Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that? 74 00:02:50,959 --> 00:02:53,200 If you have a dry rope 75 00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:55,480 we test it with human pee 76 00:02:55,480 --> 00:02:57,570 because i mean if you're on a multipitch 77 00:02:57,570 --> 00:02:58,460 and you have to go 78 00:02:58,460 --> 00:03:00,400 so you actually did the testing on this? 79 00:03:00,400 --> 00:03:01,599 yes and 80 00:03:01,599 --> 00:03:04,480 the answer is no it's not dangerous. 81 00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:07,680 I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more 82 00:03:07,680 --> 00:03:09,762 aggressive than a human pee? 83 00:03:09,762 --> 00:03:13,180 hey let's go do some science 84 00:03:13,180 --> 00:03:15,350 so this is where the rope testing magic 85 00:03:15,350 --> 00:03:17,439 happens and this is where you get those 86 00:03:17,439 --> 00:03:19,860 six seven eight or whatever falls on the 87 00:03:19,860 --> 00:03:20,629 rope. 88 00:03:20,629 --> 00:03:21,639 Exactly yeah. 89 00:03:21,639 --> 00:03:22,359 Statistics. 90 00:03:22,359 --> 00:03:24,650 The scenario is like really really hard 91 00:03:24,650 --> 00:03:28,799 like we have a fall factor of around 1.7 92 00:03:28,799 --> 00:03:30,879 we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram 93 00:03:30,879 --> 00:03:33,120 steel mass which is like super static. 94 00:03:33,120 --> 00:03:35,440 What are the forces on standard tests? 95 00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:37,159 For a single rope it's 96 00:03:37,159 --> 00:03:39,269 around like 8 to 9 KN on the edge... 97 00:03:39,269 --> 00:03:40,294 For the first fall? 98 00:03:40,294 --> 00:03:41,440 For the first fall. 99 00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:43,329 And... we had the first problem. 100 00:03:43,329 --> 00:03:45,519 so called standard rope test that every 101 00:03:45,519 --> 00:03:48,959 manufacturer does is super extreme in 102 00:03:48,959 --> 00:03:50,959 order to make it more like a real 103 00:03:50,959 --> 00:03:53,760 climbing fall we needed to reduce it 104 00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:57,360 below 4 kilonewtons and if you ask why 4 105 00:03:57,360 --> 00:03:59,760 it means that you haven't seen these two 106 00:03:59,760 --> 00:04:01,840 videos where we tried to create their 107 00:04:01,840 --> 00:04:04,400 hardest real climbing falls and measure 108 00:04:04,400 --> 00:04:06,080 the forces of them. 109 00:04:06,080 --> 00:04:08,480 That's why I said like maybe we try like 110 00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:10,959 with a new rope to get like a feeling 111 00:04:10,959 --> 00:04:12,959 like what falling height we need to have 112 00:04:12,959 --> 00:04:16,320 like around this less than 4k and then 113 00:04:16,320 --> 00:04:19,680 we switch to your rope 114 00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:23,280 don't look guess 2km 2k 115 00:04:23,280 --> 00:04:26,160 i think it's less 116 00:04:26,720 --> 00:04:29,440 wow two and a half as i said these guys 117 00:04:29,440 --> 00:04:32,320 are really good it took only one fall 118 00:04:32,320 --> 00:04:34,400 and we got the force of two and a half 119 00:04:34,400 --> 00:04:37,199 kilonewtons on a brand new rope and that 120 00:04:37,199 --> 00:04:39,360 was perfect because we were estimating 121 00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:41,360 that once we swapped the ropes to the 122 00:04:41,360 --> 00:04:44,080 old one the force will go slightly 123 00:04:44,080 --> 00:04:46,880 higher because all the ropes don't 124 00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:49,680 absorb the impact as well and it's going 125 00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:52,000 to be a perfect representation of 126 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:53,199 realistic 127 00:04:53,199 --> 00:04:55,759 hard climbing fall so here's the tricky 128 00:04:55,759 --> 00:04:56,400 part 129 00:04:56,400 --> 00:04:57,560 when you fall on rock 130 00:04:57,560 --> 00:04:58,960 [Music] 131 00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:01,520 sometimes it happens but almost the same 132 00:05:01,520 --> 00:05:03,199 spot hits the 133 00:05:03,199 --> 00:05:06,080 top carabiner yeah 134 00:05:06,080 --> 00:05:08,960 and now the tricky part is how to place 135 00:05:08,960 --> 00:05:12,080 that spot that it would be on a peak 136 00:05:12,080 --> 00:05:14,470 force on the carbonyl 137 00:05:14,470 --> 00:05:17,759 [Music] 138 00:05:17,759 --> 00:05:20,080 not easy or heart disease as you can 139 00:05:20,080 --> 00:05:23,039 imagine once the fall happens the rope 140 00:05:23,039 --> 00:05:26,240 stretches and that soft spot that we are 141 00:05:26,240 --> 00:05:28,740 trying to hit will move 142 00:05:28,740 --> 00:05:33,700 [Music] 143 00:05:33,759 --> 00:05:35,600 you thought it's gonna be easy 144 00:05:35,600 --> 00:05:36,720 no no 145 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:39,280 i knew it will be exactly like this the 146 00:05:39,280 --> 00:05:42,240 force to the rope will start increasing 147 00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:44,000 increasing increasing increasing 148 00:05:44,000 --> 00:05:46,000 increasing and at some point reaches the 149 00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:48,240 maximum and then the force will start 150 00:05:48,240 --> 00:05:49,759 dropping dropping dropping dropping 151 00:05:49,759 --> 00:05:50,880 dropping 152 00:05:50,880 --> 00:05:53,600 so the challenge is how to position the 153 00:05:53,600 --> 00:05:54,960 soft spot 154 00:05:54,960 --> 00:05:58,720 that it would move over the quick draw 155 00:05:58,720 --> 00:06:01,759 as close to the peak of the force with 156 00:06:01,759 --> 00:06:02,960 this 157 00:06:02,960 --> 00:06:05,840 small forward scenario a new rope oh 158 00:06:05,840 --> 00:06:08,479 it's about like what 400 159 00:06:08,479 --> 00:06:12,240 300 400 500 right 160 00:06:12,240 --> 00:06:16,479 a lot so neuro would hold about 400 161 00:06:16,479 --> 00:06:19,919 falls on realistic fall yeah let's see 162 00:06:19,919 --> 00:06:22,960 what happens if we put that damaged rope 163 00:06:22,960 --> 00:06:23,919 and see 164 00:06:23,919 --> 00:06:28,240 if it's hundreds or it's just few 165 00:06:29,120 --> 00:06:30,490 vietnam 166 00:06:30,490 --> 00:06:34,509 [Music] 167 00:06:39,919 --> 00:06:41,919 do you think we will hit that spot or we 168 00:06:41,919 --> 00:06:43,680 will be very far off 169 00:06:43,680 --> 00:06:46,400 i think we hit it yeah 170 00:06:46,400 --> 00:06:49,039 where is it now like 30 centimeters 171 00:06:49,039 --> 00:06:50,080 below 172 00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:52,880 yeah it's around here now 173 00:06:52,880 --> 00:06:55,039 and the rope is tense so probably this 174 00:06:55,039 --> 00:06:56,560 will move up 175 00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:57,680 and 176 00:06:57,680 --> 00:07:01,960 how much we will see 177 00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:07,440 [Music] 178 00:07:07,440 --> 00:07:11,280 so we overshoot the soft spot just by a 179 00:07:11,280 --> 00:07:13,919 little bit so we will try to readjust 180 00:07:13,919 --> 00:07:15,360 now and 181 00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:17,290 see if we can hit it more perfectly 182 00:07:17,290 --> 00:07:22,080 [Music] 183 00:07:22,080 --> 00:07:24,639 so we managed to hit the spot 184 00:07:24,639 --> 00:07:26,360 at 185 00:07:26,360 --> 00:07:29,599 2.47 kilonewtons of force now we will 186 00:07:29,599 --> 00:07:32,160 try to increase the fall a little bit to 187 00:07:32,160 --> 00:07:34,720 get to really hard falls 20 30 188 00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:36,319 centimeters 189 00:07:36,319 --> 00:07:38,960 let's see if we will still stay in 190 00:07:38,960 --> 00:07:40,880 the damaged spot where it will just 191 00:07:40,880 --> 00:07:44,199 stretch over 192 00:07:47,840 --> 00:07:50,639 so we broke the shift 193 00:07:50,639 --> 00:07:53,520 we broke the shift after two falls 194 00:07:53,520 --> 00:07:56,720 and you said it's gonna last 195 00:07:56,720 --> 00:07:58,400 no but that's what i said like the 196 00:07:58,400 --> 00:08:00,000 sheath will break 197 00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:01,120 by force 198 00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:02,960 the force was 199 00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:04,879 only two points 200 00:08:04,879 --> 00:08:06,960 only 2.1 kilonewtons and the shift 201 00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:09,960 broken 202 00:08:13,199 --> 00:08:14,960 so 203 00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:16,639 if your rope is 204 00:08:16,639 --> 00:08:18,800 soft good luck 205 00:08:18,800 --> 00:08:22,240 if the sheath is already damaged like we 206 00:08:22,240 --> 00:08:24,240 saw it like now this will lead like to 207 00:08:24,240 --> 00:08:26,879 cut its sheath like immediately but the 208 00:08:26,879 --> 00:08:28,560 the good thing is that the rope will not 209 00:08:28,560 --> 00:08:30,639 slap snap 210 00:08:30,639 --> 00:08:32,959 because the core strands like are 211 00:08:32,959 --> 00:08:36,399 still intact so how many falls it would 212 00:08:36,399 --> 00:08:39,839 take now to completely snap the rope 213 00:08:39,839 --> 00:08:41,760 that's a good question i never tested 214 00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:44,000 this 215 00:08:44,000 --> 00:08:45,519 but we could do this i guess we can do 216 00:08:45,519 --> 00:08:47,839 at least like two or three folds now 217 00:08:47,839 --> 00:08:50,160 only on the course yes yes guess how 218 00:08:50,160 --> 00:08:53,120 many falls it's going to take 219 00:08:53,120 --> 00:08:57,760 20 20 yeah wow so it took only two falls 220 00:08:57,760 --> 00:09:00,320 to completely shrink this sheath but the 221 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:02,560 good thing is like a rope is constructed 222 00:09:02,560 --> 00:09:04,959 in a way that the sheath only takes 223 00:09:04,959 --> 00:09:07,360 around like 10 to 20 224 00:09:07,360 --> 00:09:08,560 of the load 225 00:09:08,560 --> 00:09:10,399 and the rest like the the 226 00:09:10,399 --> 00:09:12,320 load bearing structure is basically only 227 00:09:12,320 --> 00:09:13,279 the core 228 00:09:13,279 --> 00:09:14,880 okay so 229 00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:16,800 the question is if you take a rope and 230 00:09:16,800 --> 00:09:18,720 you squeeze it so you feel that it's 231 00:09:18,720 --> 00:09:20,880 soft completely outside does it mean 232 00:09:20,880 --> 00:09:23,600 that the core is damaged or no no no 233 00:09:23,600 --> 00:09:24,959 because a lot of properties think that 234 00:09:24,959 --> 00:09:27,200 it's damaged inside the core is still 235 00:09:27,200 --> 00:09:29,120 intact like if i would cut the rope at 236 00:09:29,120 --> 00:09:31,279 that spot would i find some damage 237 00:09:31,279 --> 00:09:33,600 inside of the core strands it's 238 00:09:33,600 --> 00:09:35,680 difficult to say because over time the 239 00:09:35,680 --> 00:09:38,080 core strands also when we do fall tests 240 00:09:38,080 --> 00:09:39,920 you can see that it gets a little bit 241 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:41,360 more hairy 242 00:09:41,360 --> 00:09:44,240 if you would cut it open but it's just 243 00:09:44,240 --> 00:09:45,839 a couple of filaments that might have 244 00:09:45,839 --> 00:09:48,080 broken but it's not that an entire core 245 00:09:48,080 --> 00:09:50,880 strand is broken but it's weakened for 246 00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:52,080 sure 247 00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:55,040 let's see if we can snap this room now 248 00:09:55,040 --> 00:09:58,240 yeah so how many phones you set 249 00:09:58,240 --> 00:09:59,680 i don't know 250 00:09:59,680 --> 00:10:03,120 10 to 20 10 to 20. let's see so 251 00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:06,399 this is one multifilament multifilament 252 00:10:06,399 --> 00:10:10,000 made out of multiple filaments yes 253 00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:11,320 how much 254 00:10:11,320 --> 00:10:15,040 280. this is 280 inside of this so if i 255 00:10:15,040 --> 00:10:17,440 would take one 256 00:10:17,440 --> 00:10:21,360 what force that one thing would hold 257 00:10:21,360 --> 00:10:24,720 well you would not test it like this 258 00:10:24,720 --> 00:10:27,200 because a multifilament you look at it 259 00:10:27,200 --> 00:10:30,079 as the entire thing but what i can tell 260 00:10:30,079 --> 00:10:33,680 you that this core strand 261 00:10:33,680 --> 00:10:37,279 would hold 180 kilos and we are not even 262 00:10:37,279 --> 00:10:39,760 reaching very hard falls yet this is 263 00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,079 nothing 264 00:10:47,200 --> 00:10:49,120 so you said 20 how many strands are 265 00:10:49,120 --> 00:10:50,390 inside 266 00:10:50,390 --> 00:10:53,040 [Music] 267 00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:54,560 two of eight 268 00:10:54,560 --> 00:10:58,640 so you set 20 false and we have 10 to 20 269 00:10:58,640 --> 00:11:02,480 20. apart from standard drop tests what 270 00:11:02,480 --> 00:11:04,720 are other tests that are performed on 271 00:11:04,720 --> 00:11:06,880 climbing ropes what we usually do is 272 00:11:06,880 --> 00:11:09,360 also test the abrasion resistance of the 273 00:11:09,360 --> 00:11:11,440 rope so there we have an in-house 274 00:11:11,440 --> 00:11:13,279 developed testing method so it's a 275 00:11:13,279 --> 00:11:16,480 machine which pulls a rope over a sharp 276 00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:19,680 metal edge and we are counting how many 277 00:11:19,680 --> 00:11:22,000 cycles it takes for actually damaging 278 00:11:22,000 --> 00:11:23,760 the shaft 279 00:11:23,760 --> 00:11:27,960 [Music] 280 00:11:29,360 --> 00:11:32,399 we have like two parts now broken so we 281 00:11:32,399 --> 00:11:36,240 have one part and two parts broken yeah 282 00:11:36,240 --> 00:11:38,480 if we talk about abrasion resistant i 283 00:11:38,480 --> 00:11:40,720 have some interesting stuff to show is 284 00:11:40,720 --> 00:11:44,160 200 cycles so 200 times 285 00:11:44,160 --> 00:11:46,640 back and forth here you see a classic 286 00:11:46,640 --> 00:11:49,440 rope so it does not have any treatment 287 00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:52,880 impregnation it's a 9.5 it's pretty worn 288 00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:55,200 out it is worn out it's at the point 289 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:57,120 where i would consider maybe even 290 00:11:57,120 --> 00:11:59,839 cutting this yes and you should then 291 00:11:59,839 --> 00:12:01,760 next to it we have 292 00:12:01,760 --> 00:12:04,720 also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment 293 00:12:04,720 --> 00:12:08,160 what that's a huge difference yes that's 294 00:12:08,160 --> 00:12:10,639 exactly the same rope but just dry treat 295 00:12:10,639 --> 00:12:16,000 it yes that's a huge huge difference 296 00:12:16,079 --> 00:12:17,760 it feels a little bit burnt like when 297 00:12:17,760 --> 00:12:18,720 you 298 00:12:18,720 --> 00:12:20,160 touch it 299 00:12:20,160 --> 00:12:22,000 it definitely got hot 300 00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:23,680 like on the edge 301 00:12:23,680 --> 00:12:26,240 so your six lives got a bit damaged but 302 00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,320 that's good to know and you can climb 303 00:12:28,320 --> 00:12:30,320 you can climb you would climb on this i 304 00:12:30,320 --> 00:12:31,440 mean the brits 305 00:12:31,440 --> 00:12:33,839 was done by jean villanova like with a 306 00:12:33,839 --> 00:12:35,680 sheet colored rope like from the 307 00:12:35,680 --> 00:12:37,760 beginning on i think in the second pitch 308 00:12:37,760 --> 00:12:39,839 of that pitch he had a stone fall and 309 00:12:39,839 --> 00:12:41,680 his rope already got cut like the sheet 310 00:12:41,680 --> 00:12:43,200 was completely damaged and he did the 311 00:12:43,200 --> 00:12:45,600 whole fits reverse with this rope then 312 00:12:45,600 --> 00:12:48,320 he like repaired a lot over it does the 313 00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:52,160 percentage of sheaf versus core strands 314 00:12:52,160 --> 00:12:54,079 it's not always the same in sport 315 00:12:54,079 --> 00:12:56,480 climbing ropes yeah or like climbing 316 00:12:56,480 --> 00:12:58,160 ropes in general it's not always the 317 00:12:58,160 --> 00:12:59,200 same now 318 00:12:59,200 --> 00:13:01,920 and what does it depend on well for us 319 00:13:01,920 --> 00:13:03,920 it depends on what kind of rope we want 320 00:13:03,920 --> 00:13:06,399 to make sport climbing 321 00:13:06,399 --> 00:13:08,399 wait let me show you something show me 322 00:13:08,399 --> 00:13:10,480 something okay so you have the interplay 323 00:13:10,480 --> 00:13:13,120 of both the percentage of material that 324 00:13:13,120 --> 00:13:16,079 is the chef but also 325 00:13:16,079 --> 00:13:18,800 how the chef was constructed for example 326 00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:22,800 here on this rope we have more chef 327 00:13:22,800 --> 00:13:24,720 twines so 328 00:13:24,720 --> 00:13:27,839 if you would count these 329 00:13:27,839 --> 00:13:31,440 singular ones they are much more than on 330 00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:33,440 this chef oh yeah that's almost double 331 00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:34,639 no 332 00:13:34,639 --> 00:13:37,360 no no it isn't but it's just a slight 333 00:13:37,360 --> 00:13:39,600 difference but if you check out the 334 00:13:39,600 --> 00:13:40,959 surface 335 00:13:40,959 --> 00:13:44,800 you can see that here the little cubes 336 00:13:44,800 --> 00:13:47,600 that they form are smaller 337 00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:51,600 than on this one so here we have a super 338 00:13:51,600 --> 00:13:54,399 fine surface of the of the chef so if 339 00:13:54,399 --> 00:13:56,959 you for example would touch this one it 340 00:13:56,959 --> 00:13:59,120 feels much rougher yeah 341 00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:00,880 so this is also what makes it more 342 00:14:00,880 --> 00:14:03,839 durable 343 00:14:10,160 --> 00:14:12,240 so we are still very far from twenty but 344 00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:14,839 what's the maybe i get some coffee 345 00:14:14,839 --> 00:14:18,320 huh it was already 3.4 yeah it's 346 00:14:18,320 --> 00:14:20,399 increasing and increasing so the dynamic 347 00:14:20,399 --> 00:14:22,160 performance of the rope gets low and 348 00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:24,720 lower and lower this one here is our 349 00:14:24,720 --> 00:14:26,959 workhorse construction it does not have 350 00:14:26,959 --> 00:14:29,440 any treatment but we're using the best 351 00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:31,920 and the finest yarns that we have to 352 00:14:31,920 --> 00:14:35,040 make this construction and it also i 353 00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,680 would say you know it's as good as the 354 00:14:37,680 --> 00:14:39,680 dry rope so why 355 00:14:39,680 --> 00:14:41,920 not all ropes are made this way where we 356 00:14:41,920 --> 00:14:43,600 have finer 357 00:14:43,600 --> 00:14:46,320 construction because price matters yeah 358 00:14:46,320 --> 00:14:48,720 now i would like to see not 200 cycles 359 00:14:48,720 --> 00:14:53,040 but 1 000. yes they come here oh really 360 00:14:53,040 --> 00:14:57,440 not the 2000 but the 500. i would climb 361 00:14:57,440 --> 00:14:58,720 with 362 00:14:58,720 --> 00:15:01,360 this one and with this one or if i have 363 00:15:01,360 --> 00:15:04,560 a risky day i would choose this 364 00:15:04,560 --> 00:15:06,399 do you have risky days 365 00:15:06,399 --> 00:15:10,639 sometimes turns out size or diameter is 366 00:15:10,639 --> 00:15:13,199 not all that matters when we talk about 367 00:15:13,199 --> 00:15:16,000 durability construction and extra 368 00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,880 treatments might have a bigger impact 369 00:15:18,880 --> 00:15:21,040 it's a crazy difference now having in 370 00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:22,880 mind that all of them will run through 371 00:15:22,880 --> 00:15:25,040 the same process to the point where 372 00:15:25,040 --> 00:15:28,240 super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked 373 00:15:28,240 --> 00:15:31,360 completely fine after 500 of cycles of 374 00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:33,600 dragging it across the sharp edge this 375 00:15:33,600 --> 00:15:35,360 one looks quite good 376 00:15:35,360 --> 00:15:37,279 like a little bit fuzzy but i would 377 00:15:37,279 --> 00:15:40,120 definitely use it however much thicker 378 00:15:40,120 --> 00:15:43,279 9.5 millimeters rope but old 379 00:15:43,279 --> 00:15:46,000 construction and no treatments were 380 00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:47,519 completely 381 00:15:47,519 --> 00:15:48,240 done 382 00:15:48,240 --> 00:15:51,839 my guess is five more falls and we 383 00:15:52,839 --> 00:15:55,440 snapped think we have to increase 384 00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:57,839 otherwise yeah let's increase everybody 385 00:15:57,839 --> 00:16:00,000 wants harder falls but it's already 386 00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:01,759 getting harder we went yeah two and a 387 00:16:01,759 --> 00:16:03,839 half to three and a half yeah to 388 00:16:03,839 --> 00:16:06,000 increase 389 00:16:06,000 --> 00:16:08,079 you can't just dropping keep dropping 390 00:16:08,079 --> 00:16:11,279 yeah keep dropping and we'll get coffee 391 00:16:11,279 --> 00:16:15,519 what do you want coffee espresso 392 00:16:15,519 --> 00:16:17,600 are you asking the viewer with milk are 393 00:16:17,600 --> 00:16:20,480 you sending me yes 394 00:16:20,639 --> 00:16:23,040 one interesting observation i got while 395 00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:25,759 i was making this intro animation 396 00:16:25,759 --> 00:16:27,839 which by the way took me multiple days 397 00:16:27,839 --> 00:16:29,600 and multiple attempts 398 00:16:29,600 --> 00:16:32,720 was that while the rope is new 399 00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:35,360 the file glides over the rope very 400 00:16:35,360 --> 00:16:37,920 smoothly and it's pretty hard to make 401 00:16:37,920 --> 00:16:40,320 any damage to it but once the rope 402 00:16:40,320 --> 00:16:43,600 starts becoming fuzzy it becomes easier 403 00:16:43,600 --> 00:16:46,320 to make some extra damage so it felt 404 00:16:46,320 --> 00:16:47,440 like the 405 00:16:47,440 --> 00:16:49,839 fuzziness or the damage to the rope is 406 00:16:49,839 --> 00:16:52,320 kind of exponential the worse it gets 407 00:16:52,320 --> 00:16:55,440 the easier it is to make it even worse 408 00:16:55,440 --> 00:16:57,440 oh yeah let's do again all these six 409 00:16:57,440 --> 00:16:59,279 tracks left 410 00:16:59,279 --> 00:17:00,880 whoa so 411 00:17:00,880 --> 00:17:01,920 okay 412 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:04,079 so you can come back already with your 413 00:17:04,079 --> 00:17:07,120 coffee so the force went lower but one 414 00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:08,959 strand snapped 415 00:17:08,959 --> 00:17:11,520 too snapped but the sound of the strand 416 00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:13,439 snapping was good 417 00:17:13,439 --> 00:17:16,160 is it bad if i scream behind the camera 418 00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:17,760 it's not the sound that you want to hear 419 00:17:17,760 --> 00:17:19,679 when you're out climbing 420 00:17:19,679 --> 00:17:23,199 okay the fun part how fuzzy is too fuzzy 421 00:17:23,199 --> 00:17:26,319 or how soft the rope is too soft when 422 00:17:26,319 --> 00:17:29,039 should people actually cut it i mean you 423 00:17:29,039 --> 00:17:31,039 pull the rope through your hands how to 424 00:17:31,039 --> 00:17:33,280 to check the ropes this you should do on 425 00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:35,120 a regular basis and what are you doing 426 00:17:35,120 --> 00:17:37,039 when you're pulling well on the one hand 427 00:17:37,039 --> 00:17:40,080 i feel the rope so i feel the how the 428 00:17:40,080 --> 00:17:43,360 rope behaves if it's super soft if it's 429 00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:45,280 thicker and at the same time you know 430 00:17:45,280 --> 00:17:47,840 you you pull it over your finger and you 431 00:17:47,840 --> 00:17:50,000 look at it so you do like a visual 432 00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:52,640 inspection 433 00:17:56,799 --> 00:17:59,120 beautiful rope wood whip 434 00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:01,919 would you whip you would whip you would 435 00:18:01,919 --> 00:18:04,880 see oh the force went lower again 436 00:18:04,880 --> 00:18:06,720 so basically the less core strands we 437 00:18:06,720 --> 00:18:08,480 have the better the rope is the softer 438 00:18:08,480 --> 00:18:10,880 the catch 439 00:18:11,440 --> 00:18:13,679 i wouldn't see it that way but 440 00:18:13,679 --> 00:18:15,679 if you want a soft catch just break the 441 00:18:15,679 --> 00:18:16,559 rope 442 00:18:16,559 --> 00:18:18,880 so let's say i'm running my rope through 443 00:18:18,880 --> 00:18:21,520 my hand and i find that spot which is 444 00:18:21,520 --> 00:18:24,480 softer so how do i know if it's already 445 00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:25,600 bad 446 00:18:25,600 --> 00:18:28,400 or first consider the whole rope i mean 447 00:18:28,400 --> 00:18:30,320 if you have a really soft rope because 448 00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:31,919 they're hard i mean some ropes are 449 00:18:31,919 --> 00:18:34,080 already soft when you you buy them in 450 00:18:34,080 --> 00:18:36,240 the store huh i would say the hour ropes 451 00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:38,880 are a little bit stiffer in general and 452 00:18:38,880 --> 00:18:40,000 we do that to make them more 453 00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:42,320 long-lasting but if your whole rope is 454 00:18:42,320 --> 00:18:44,080 very soft and you have a spot which is 455 00:18:44,080 --> 00:18:46,559 just a little bit softer 456 00:18:46,559 --> 00:18:48,880 i would say i would not like say oh 457 00:18:48,880 --> 00:18:50,960 that's super dangerous huh but if you 458 00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:51,679 have 459 00:18:51,679 --> 00:18:53,600 the rope is generally really stiff and 460 00:18:53,600 --> 00:18:56,000 then you have one spot with this ultra 461 00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:57,440 soft then you know 462 00:18:57,440 --> 00:19:00,320 something is not right there and exactly 463 00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:02,080 what's not right there 464 00:19:02,080 --> 00:19:04,880 hey there is so many things that it 465 00:19:04,880 --> 00:19:07,280 could be so as an example if i would be 466 00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:09,760 just looking into this piece of the rope 467 00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:11,840 it would be pretty difficult to say how 468 00:19:11,840 --> 00:19:14,640 soft it needs to be and if i should cut 469 00:19:14,640 --> 00:19:15,360 it 470 00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:16,400 but 471 00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:18,559 if i compare it to the middle of the 472 00:19:18,559 --> 00:19:21,280 same rope i can clearly see a big 473 00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:24,240 difference so this clearly is far from 474 00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:26,400 what it used to be and it's better to 475 00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:28,880 cut this end and if you want some tips 476 00:19:28,880 --> 00:19:33,039 on cutting ropes check out this video 477 00:19:33,980 --> 00:19:35,919 [Music] 478 00:19:35,919 --> 00:19:38,000 i don't think we can do another one 479 00:19:38,000 --> 00:19:39,919 unfortunately the rope kept stretching 480 00:19:39,919 --> 00:19:42,320 and stretching and stretching until we 481 00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:44,559 almost reached the bottom of the drop 482 00:19:44,559 --> 00:19:46,559 tower and we couldn't do any more 483 00:19:46,559 --> 00:19:47,679 testing 484 00:19:47,679 --> 00:19:50,799 however we decided to show what happens 485 00:19:50,799 --> 00:19:53,440 if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging 486 00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:56,320 on only core strands and you touch the 487 00:19:56,320 --> 00:19:58,640 core strands with the knife 488 00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:00,960 test 489 00:20:04,240 --> 00:20:07,440 it just barely dude 490 00:20:07,440 --> 00:20:10,480 you went too long 491 00:20:10,480 --> 00:20:11,760 what happened 492 00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:14,400 but what happened 493 00:20:14,559 --> 00:20:16,559 so it didn't broke so i was right with 494 00:20:16,559 --> 00:20:19,440 10 to 20 right 495 00:20:19,440 --> 00:20:21,360 yes thanks 496 00:20:21,360 --> 00:20:24,000 so basically what we got is 497 00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:28,400 running very damaged rope on relatively 498 00:20:28,400 --> 00:20:29,600 hard dish 499 00:20:29,600 --> 00:20:32,159 maybe to normal foil yeah real case 500 00:20:32,159 --> 00:20:35,200 scenario ripped the sheath of the rope 501 00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:37,120 in just two falls which is very 502 00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:38,799 dangerous but then it was good to see 503 00:20:38,799 --> 00:20:41,039 that the rope did not snapped 504 00:20:41,039 --> 00:20:43,840 and only the core strands kept holding 505 00:20:43,840 --> 00:20:44,880 for 506 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:48,720 multiple more falls so 507 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,200 but when he touched barely with the 508 00:20:51,200 --> 00:20:53,120 sharp knife the core strands he just 509 00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:55,520 barely touched it it snapped 510 00:20:55,520 --> 00:20:57,039 so if your 511 00:20:57,039 --> 00:20:58,720 shift gets away 512 00:20:58,720 --> 00:21:01,039 and then your rope runs across something 513 00:21:01,039 --> 00:21:03,200 sharp on the rock super dangerous 514 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:04,240 yeah 515 00:21:04,240 --> 00:21:05,840 i think now we're coming to the second 516 00:21:05,840 --> 00:21:07,919 scenario you wanna you wanna show when 517 00:21:07,919 --> 00:21:10,400 it comes to sharp edge scenarios yeah 518 00:21:10,400 --> 00:21:13,760 like the ropes don't have this high 519 00:21:13,760 --> 00:21:16,159 safety margin 520 00:21:16,159 --> 00:21:18,720 i hope that you are subscribed because 521 00:21:18,720 --> 00:21:20,799 the next experiment that i'm gonna show 522 00:21:20,799 --> 00:21:23,280 in the next video is gonna blow your 523 00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:26,559 mind and probably change a little bit 524 00:21:26,559 --> 00:21:28,799 the way you care about your climbing 525 00:21:28,799 --> 00:21:30,720 equipment 526 00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:34,480 okay now i need you to pee 527 00:21:34,480 --> 00:21:37,799 come on