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How to Make a Tongue Drum (or Log or Slit Drum)

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    Making a tongue drum is something that
    had been on my list for quite a while.
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    I knew it was going to
    be quite a challenge
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    so I decided to eliminate as
    many variables as possible
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    so that the margin for
    error would be smaller.
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    I began researching intensively
    and watched all the videos
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    I could find on people making these drums
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    watched videos of drums that
    are out there for sale
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    searched for woods, joinery, design
    and all that stuff.
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    Eventually, what I decided to make
    was a copy of a Shlagwerk log drum.
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    It took me a while to go
    further in each step
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    because the last thing I wanted to end up
    with was a horrible sounding instrument
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    and call it a failure or
    remaking parts of the process
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    so I tried to be cautious
    and think 100 times
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    before cutting into actual
    material and so on.
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    If you do a bit of research
    you will find that
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    most tongue drums have
    padauk or wangi wood tops
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    and that's because these woods
    are more musical than others.
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    I don't know much about this
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    but all I can say is that they vibrate
    and reverberate in specific ways
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    that allow for better, fuller and
    easier to achieve notes.
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    It's probably due to their density
    and hardness but not just that.
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    So I started by preparing the wangi
    and after close observation
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    of the Shlagwerk drum I noticed that
    the top is not a single piece.
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    It's made out of 4 strips,
    so that's what I did.
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    I also did it because my timber
    was a bit twisted
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    and this way I could obtain a flat board
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    without as much wood removal.
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    Here you can hear
    the difference in the sound
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    when the pieces are being
    held in different spots.
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    For the box sides I used three-quarter
    inch Baltic birch plywood
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    and routed rabbets on the bottom
    and sides on the router table.
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    You’ll want to use high quality materials
    and not cheap plywood
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    as it may affect the sound in the end.
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    I planed it carefully removing a
    very small amount on each pass
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    until the board was 14 mm
    or a little over half an inch.
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    I also made a groove in the
    middle of one of the largest faces
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    to inlay a strip of wangi.
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    There are many ways of cutting the keys
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    but since I had made the template
    on the computer
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    I sent a file over to the X-carve and
    had it carving the lines
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    with a 1/16 straight bit.
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    You can also use a jigsaw or scroll saw
    and create other shapes for the keys.
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    Steve Carmichael has a great video
    on how to make a tongue drum
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    and he uses a jigsaw.
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    Since wangi is very splintery wood
    I made a second pass
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    with a V-bed to get a smoother
    look and feel.
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    I made the top edges level
    and glued the top
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    using two pieces of wood
    with a slight arc
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    on them that will act as bow clamps.
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    These are great for when
    you have a small number
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    of clamps and need to make
    pressure along the entire edge
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    using just one clamp on each end.
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    I flush trimmed the box and
    rounded over all the edges.
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    After all, this is a musical instrument
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    and your hands will be all over the place
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    so it's nice to make it
    round and comfortable.
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    I was still not getting good results
    so I sat back and did more research
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    and I found a video from KR2 wood
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    explaining his process for tuning his drum
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    and how adding more mass to the box sides
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    would bring the keys to
    a better tone and vibration.
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    So, I found some hard maple scraps
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    and glued them super
    tight into both sides.
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    Always make sure that
    your glue ups are perfect
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    because a bad glue joint
    will mess with the final sound.
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    I should have made the walls
    thicker from the beginning
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    and that way I could start
    fresh on the tuning
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    but I kept going and it
    eventually worked fine.
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    So, here I am hitting the keys and
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    writing down which note I was getting.
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    Then went back and forth
    removing material
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    until the desired note was achieved.
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    You can change about two tones
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    so, let's say you are getting a C
    and you want to go up to an E
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    then it should work
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    but if you're getting a C and you
    want to go up to a G or down to a G
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    it's going to be super hard
    or even impossible.
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    That's why the size of
    the keys also matters
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    and a bigger tongue is
    never going to go up
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    to match a super small tongue.
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    To tune it up you have to remove
    material from the tip of the tongue
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    and if you want to go down you remove
    material from the back of the tongue
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    where it meets the rest of the board.
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    What I noticed is that removing
    material on a perpendicular line
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    is much more effective
    than drilling larger holes.
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    Just be careful not to drill
    all the way through
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    or even make part of the tongue
    too thin and fragile.
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    After I was satisfied with the tuning
    I screwed the bottom with lots of screws
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    to make sure it was fully closed
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    and the pressure was even
    along the entire edge.
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    I finished off with three coats
    of water-based varnish.
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    Finally, I stuck on four foam pads that
    are typically used on drum kit cymbals.
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    The tongue drum is done and
    I think it sounds pretty good
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    for a first handmade instrument.
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    If you have any questions feel free
    to drop it on the Patreon post
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    where you can find a PDF with more
    details about this build
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    and a free template.
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    A big shout out to
    Rockler and Inventables
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    and all my Patreon supporters
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    and go get your hands dirty.
Title:
How to Make a Tongue Drum (or Log or Slit Drum)
Description:

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Video Language:
English
Duration:
13:39

English subtitles

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