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Making a tongue drum is something that
had been on my list for quite a while.
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I knew it was going to
be quite a challenge
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so I decided to eliminate as
many variables as possible
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so that the margin for
error would be smaller.
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I began researching intensively
and watched all the videos
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I could find on people making these drums
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watched videos of drums that
are out there for sale
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searched for woods, joinery, design
and all that stuff.
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Eventually, what I decided to make
was a copy of a Shlagwerk log drum.
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It took me a while to go
further in each step
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because the last thing I wanted to end up
with was a horrible sounding instrument
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and call it a failure or
remaking parts of the process
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so I tried to be cautious
and think 100 times
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before cutting into actual
material and so on.
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If you do a bit of research
you will find that
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most tongue drums have
padauk or wangi wood tops
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and that's because these woods
are more musical than others.
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I don't know much about this
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but all I can say is that they vibrate
and reverberate in specific ways
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that allow for better, fuller and
easier to achieve notes.
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It's probably due to their density
and hardness but not just that.
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So I started by preparing the wangi
and after close observation
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of the Shlagwerk drum I noticed that
the top is not a single piece.
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It's made out of 4 strips,
so that's what I did.
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I also did it because my timber
was a bit twisted
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and this way I could obtain a flat board
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without as much wood removal.
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Here you can hear
the difference in the sound
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when the pieces are being
held in different spots.
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For the box sides I used three-quarter
inch Baltic birch plywood
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and routed rabbets on the bottom
and sides on the router table.
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You’ll want to use high quality materials
and not cheap plywood
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as it may affect the sound in the end.
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I planed it carefully removing a
very small amount on each pass
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until the board was 14 mm
or a little over half an inch.
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I also made a groove in the
middle of one of the largest faces
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to inlay a strip of wangi.
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There are many ways of cutting the keys
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but since I had made the template
on the computer
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I sent a file over to the X-carve and
had it carving the lines
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with a 1/16 straight bit.
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You can also use a jigsaw or scroll saw
and create other shapes for the keys.
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Steve Carmichael has a great video
on how to make a tongue drum
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and he uses a jigsaw.
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Since wangi is very splintery wood
I made a second pass
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with a V-bed to get a smoother
look and feel.
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I made the top edges level
and glued the top
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using two pieces of wood
with a slight arc
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on them that will act as bow clamps.
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These are great for when
you have a small number
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of clamps and need to make
pressure along the entire edge
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using just one clamp on each end.
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I flush trimmed the box and
rounded over all the edges.
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After all, this is a musical instrument
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and your hands will be all over the place
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so it's nice to make it
round and comfortable.
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I was still not getting good results
so I sat back and did more research
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and I found a video from KR2 wood
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explaining his process for tuning his drum
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and how adding more mass to the box sides
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would bring the keys to
a better tone and vibration.
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So, I found some hard maple scraps
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and glued them super
tight into both sides.
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Always make sure that
your glue ups are perfect
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because a bad glue joint
will mess with the final sound.
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I should have made the walls
thicker from the beginning
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and that way I could start
fresh on the tuning
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but I kept going and it
eventually worked fine.
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So, here I am hitting the keys and
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writing down which note I was getting.
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Then went back and forth
removing material
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until the desired note was achieved.
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You can change about two tones
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so, let's say you are getting a C
and you want to go up to an E
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then it should work
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but if you're getting a C and you
want to go up to a G or down to a G
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it's going to be super hard
or even impossible.
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That's why the size of
the keys also matters
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and a bigger tongue is
never going to go up
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to match a super small tongue.
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To tune it up you have to remove
material from the tip of the tongue
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and if you want to go down you remove
material from the back of the tongue
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where it meets the rest of the board.
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What I noticed is that removing
material on a perpendicular line
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is much more effective
than drilling larger holes.
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Just be careful not to drill
all the way through
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or even make part of the tongue
too thin and fragile.
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After I was satisfied with the tuning
I screwed the bottom with lots of screws
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to make sure it was fully closed
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and the pressure was even
along the entire edge.
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I finished off with three coats
of water-based varnish.
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Finally, I stuck on four foam pads that
are typically used on drum kit cymbals.
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The tongue drum is done and
I think it sounds pretty good
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for a first handmade instrument.
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If you have any questions feel free
to drop it on the Patreon post
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where you can find a PDF with more
details about this build
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and a free template.
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A big shout out to
Rockler and Inventables
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and all my Patreon supporters
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and go get your hands dirty.