Making a tongue drum is something that had been on my list for quite a while. I knew it was going to be quite a challenge so I decided to eliminate as many variables as possible so that the margin for error would be smaller. I began researching intensively and watched all the videos I could find on people making these drums watched videos of drums that are out there for sale searched for woods, joinery, design and all that stuff. Eventually, what I decided to make was a copy of a Shlagwerk log drum. It took me a while to go further in each step because the last thing I wanted to end up with was a horrible sounding instrument and call it a failure or remaking parts of the process so I tried to be cautious and think 100 times before cutting into actual material and so on. If you do a bit of research you will find that most tongue drums have padauk or wangi wood tops and that's because these woods are more musical than others. I don't know much about this but all I can say is that they vibrate and reverberate in specific ways that allow for better, fuller and easier to achieve notes. It's probably due to their density and hardness but not just that. So I started by preparing the wangi and after close observation of the Shlagwerk drum I noticed that the top is not a single piece. It's made out of 4 strips, so that's what I did. I also did it because my timber was a bit twisted and this way I could obtain a flat board without as much wood removal. Here you can hear the difference in the sound when the pieces are being held in different spots. For the box sides I used three-quarter inch Baltic birch plywood and routed rabbets on the bottom and sides on the router table. You’ll want to use high quality materials and not cheap plywood as it may affect the sound in the end. I planed it carefully removing a very small amount on each pass until the board was 14 mm or a little over half an inch. I also made a groove in the middle of one of the largest faces to inlay a strip of wangi. There are many ways of cutting the keys but since I had made the template on the computer I sent a file over to the X-carve and had it carving the lines with a 1/16 straight bit. You can also use a jigsaw or scroll saw and create other shapes for the keys. Steve Carmichael has a great video on how to make a tongue drum and he uses a jigsaw. Since wangi is very splintery wood I made a second pass with a V-bed to get a smoother look and feel. I made the top edges level and glued the top using two pieces of wood with a slight arc on them that will act as bow clamps. These are great for when you have a small number of clamps and need to make pressure along the entire edge using just one clamp on each end. I flush trimmed the box and rounded over all the edges. After all, this is a musical instrument and your hands will be all over the place so it's nice to make it round and comfortable. I was still not getting good results so I sat back and did more research and I found a video from KR2 wood explaining his process for tuning his drum and how adding more mass to the box sides would bring the keys to a better tone and vibration. So, I found some hard maple scraps and glued them super tight into both sides. Always make sure that your glue ups are perfect because a bad glue joint will mess with the final sound. I should have made the walls thicker from the beginning and that way I could start fresh on the tuning but I kept going and it eventually worked fine. So, here I am hitting the keys and writing down which note I was getting. Then went back and forth removing material until the desired note was achieved. You can change about two tones so, let's say you are getting a C and you want to go up to an E then it should work but if you're getting a C and you want to go up to a G or down to a G it's going to be super hard or even impossible. That's why the size of the keys also matters and a bigger tongue is never going to go up to match a super small tongue. To tune it up you have to remove material from the tip of the tongue and if you want to go down you remove material from the back of the tongue where it meets the rest of the board. What I noticed is that removing material on a perpendicular line is much more effective than drilling larger holes. Just be careful not to drill all the way through or even make part of the tongue too thin and fragile. After I was satisfied with the tuning I screwed the bottom with lots of screws to make sure it was fully closed and the pressure was even along the entire edge. I finished off with three coats of water-based varnish. Finally, I stuck on four foam pads that are typically used on drum kit cymbals. The tongue drum is done and I think it sounds pretty good for a first handmade instrument. If you have any questions feel free to drop it on the Patreon post where you can find a PDF with more details about this build and a free template. A big shout out to Rockler and Inventables and all my Patreon supporters and go get your hands dirty.