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TSP #3 - Camera Flash Circuit and Nixie Tube Tutorial (Part 3/3)

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    >> Here we go. I'm going to use the edge of this.
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    I'm already wearing protective glasses because this will cause a big spark.
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    Please don't try this at home.
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    There we go. I'm going to connect it to terminals together.
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    Ready? Here we go.
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    I had my eyes closed. So I hope you guys saw that.
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    That was the entire charge
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    in a capacitor going through the short-circuit tip of this.
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    You can see it actually damaged the tip of my X-Acto knife here.
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    They wouldn't focus on this very well.
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    But now you can see that a voltage across
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    the capacitor went down all the way to 11 minus seven volts.
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    So, let's now do the same thing, but this time,
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    let's take this to the oscilloscope and connect the probe on
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    the voltage that I was telling you about, and
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    the node I was telling you about I'm interested in seeing.
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    I'm interested in looking at this voltage right here
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    and seeing the oscillation I was telling you about. So, let's take a look at that.
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    Okay. Here we are at the oscilloscope.
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    I'm going to be using my older scope for
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    this because I'm going to be putting a very large voltage,
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    and then I don't want to risk damaging my new digital scope.
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    You can buy one of these older CRT-based scope from eBay for about $200.
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    They're very useful. I highly recommend it.
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    So, here's the flash circuit.
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    It's already powered up using my power supply on the left.
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    I'm not running this at its full capacity.
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    I'm running it only from 0.6 volts because I don't want to create a very large voltage.
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    I just want to demonstrate the principle of operation.
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    So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to use the oscilloscope probe
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    and look at the voltage right before and after the diode.
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    So, let me see if I can get this to focus.
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    There we go, almost.
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    Right. So, here you can see the diode right there,
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    and I'm going to look at the voltage before and after the diode so we
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    can see the peak detection and also the large voltage swing I was telling you about.
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    So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to connect
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    the negative terminal of
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    my 10 to one probe and it's important that this is a 10 to one probe.
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    So, I will connect that to the negative voltage of the power supply.
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    I will take this cap off,
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    and then we will focus,
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    zoom in a little bit more on the display.
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    So, you can see the display of the scope is set to 50 volts per division,
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    meaning each of these vertical lines and vertical divisions is 50 volts.
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    So, there's eight of them in total, one,
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    two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight.
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    So 400 volts, a peak-to-peak signal can fit in this display.
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    Right now, the middle line is the ground.
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    So the signal in the middle is zero volts.
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    So, I will connect it right where I was saying right before the diode,
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    but I'm going to have to do that from the opposite side of
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    the PCB because I cannot really reach that.
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    I flip it over.
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    This is after the diode,
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    and this is before the diode.
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    I'll put this on the ground and then I will connect it.
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    Here we go, like that.
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    So, you can see there is an excess of 400 volts peak-to-peak of swing there.
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    The negative swing is clipped at the bottom.
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    You can see the bottom part is clipped.
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    The reason is because that's where the diode starts conducting and,
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    therefore, the capacitor starts to charge.
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    So, that voltage does not go below there because
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    the capacitor is so big that clips a voltage at the bottom.
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    But you can see that right now,
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    the voltage across the capacitor,
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    you can tell by where the clipping happens must be around minus 200, minus 250 volts.
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    If I connect this right to the capacitor,
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    you can see that it goes below the vertical division,
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    below the lowest point here is because it's less than minus 200 volts.
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    So, there's one other thing we can get from this.
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    If I connect it, we can measure the frequency of oscillation.
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    Each horizontal division is 50 microseconds.
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    So, if I connect it,
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    we can see that the cycle repeats once every 100 microsecond.
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    That's equal to 10 kilohertz.
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    Ten kilohertz is audible because you can hear 10 kilohertz.
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    In fact, you must have realized whenever you turn one of these things on,
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    then it makes that really annoying high-frequency pitch.
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    The reason that happens is because the frequency
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    of oscillation is within the audible range,
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    and the coil is in the transformer vibrate ever so
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    slightly because of so much cranes in them in the magnetic field.
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    Shift them left and right very little just enough so that you can hear.
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    So, the whole circuit emits sound when it's operating.
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    That's another reason why it makes that noise.
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    So, what I'm going to do now is that now we
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    have spoken a lot about how this circuit works,
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    looked at some other voltage or the oscillation and
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    a whole bunch of other characteristics,
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    what I'm going to do now, is I'm going to connect this to
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    a Nixie tube and then see if we can power a Nixie tube with one of these things.
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    So, let's move back to the other side and let's try to do that.
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    So here, I have a Nixie tube.
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    This Nixie tube shows numbers between zero to nine and it has also two decimal points.
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    So, the way these Nixie tubes work is that the gas inside
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    this tube is low pressure neon sometimes mixed with mercury and argon.
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    You have around on the outside,
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    you may be able to see it,
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    there's this mesh that's connected all the way around,
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    and at the back is a solid plating that's connected to one of these pens.
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    That's the anode pen.
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    What ends up happening is by putting a large potential difference
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    between this mesh on the outside and
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    the little numbers in the inside that you may be able to see,
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    you're going to excite the neon gas that's in there,
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    and the neon gas is going to glow.
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    The exact principle of operation of how it
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    happens and the physics that goes into it is an interesting read.
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    I suggest that you take a look at it,
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    but the principle of operation is what I said.
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    The gas gets excited,
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    the electrons move to higher energy bands.
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    On their way back down,
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    they emit light in the frequency and the wavelength that we are able to see.
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    That happens near the cathode elements of this Nixie tube.
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    Why does it happen near the cathode element?
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    Now, it is a little bit of physics that goes in there too.
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    I recommended you, take a look at it.
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    But in order to turn one of these things on,
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    you need to apply somewhere between 150,
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    160 of volts between the anode and the cathode of this particular model,
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    and then you'd be able to turn those numbers on.
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    These guys were invented and used back in the '40s and
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    the '50s when seven-segment displays,
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    an LCD displays and vacuum fluorescent displays weren't available yet,
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    and you could show numbers with these.
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    So, if you ever had an old HB or a very old measurement equipment,
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    you will be able to find these Nixie tubes used as a display, very, very popular.
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    A lot of people build very cool things with these like clocks or some
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    display depending on what kind of Nixie tube we can get a hold of.
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    I got a batch of 10 of them from eBay a while back.
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    I can't remember maybe about $50 or so.
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    Very cool things to play with but of course because they
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    need 150 volts or so to turn them on,
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    they are not the easiest things to use.
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    So, you will need a DC-DC converter.
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    So, I thought why not,
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    let's try and power one of these things using a flash circuit
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    because the flash circuit is capable of giving us that kind of voltages.
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    So, what I've done is that I've taken one of these guys,
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    and I have just placed that on
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    top of one of these breadboards so that all the legs are nicely separated.
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    There is a little resistors connected to the anode.
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    So, this wire right here is going to connect
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    to the anode and every one of the other wires,
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    the cathodes are going to be connected to
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    the potential that will turn it on and you should be able to see those numbers.
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    So, I'm going to connect everything up,
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    show you how it's connected, and then let's see if we can power it on.
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    Then, the last thing,
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    we're going to measure the efficiency of
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    the DC-DC converter based on how much power is delivered to the Nixie tube,
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    and how much power is required for the flash circuit to run.
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    So, let's do that.
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    So, let's see what I've done here.
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    I have connected the flash circuit to the power supply,
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    so it's powered on.
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    I'm monitoring the voltage of the capacitor
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    simultaneously like I was doing before on the multimeter.
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    I am connecting the anode to ground and I'm connecting one of
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    the cathodes to the negative terminal of the capacitor.
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    This is because, remember this produces
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    negative voltages with respect to the ground of the power supply.
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    So, at the same time,
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    I am measuring the voltage that is connected to the flash,
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    the current that's connected to this that it is being provided to the flash,
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    the voltage across the capacitor,
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    and the current that is given to the Nixie tube.
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    So, if I were to multiply this current by this voltage,
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    that's the power delivered to the Nixie tube.
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    If I were to multiply this number with this number,
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    that's the power delivered to the flash unit.
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    So, by dividing the result of this to this,
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    I can get the efficiency of the DC-DC converter afterwards.
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    But let's first turn on the Nixie tube and see what happens.
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    So, let me go all the way down and we bring the Nixie tube into view, like so.
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    I'm going to increase the voltage in the power supply until this guy turns
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    on. Here we go.
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    There we go. Here it is and it's showing the number eight.
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    I can show other numbers by connecting it to the other numbers.
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    For example, here's number two, three, four,
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    five, six, seven, eight,
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    and the back that's nine.
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    You can also turn one and other ones but I don't want to reach the back,
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    all the way back just in case I will short-circuit the wires.
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    So, let's connect it back to number eight.
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    So, the thing that makes this Nixie tube is really
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    cool is the fact that the numbers are not all on the same plane.
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    So, it gives it this weird 3D look.
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    As I go across the numbers,
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    the numbers go back and forth and I think that's
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    a really cool retro look and you could incorporate in one of your future projects.
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    So, you can see when we're a bit closer,
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    the number eight is glowing.
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    Very nicely, it has a very nice orange glow color to it.
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    So, I'm going to put this down on the ground,
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    leave this number eight on so we can measure now the efficiency of the DC-DC converter.
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    So, let's put this back down here.
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    While it's on, let's go up and look at these numbers. Here we go.
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    So, the power supply is set to 0.8 volts and is drawing 386 milliamps.
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    So, let's say for the sake of to make it easy in the calculation,
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    let's say this was 400 milliamps.
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    So, that will be 0.32 watts.
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    320 milliwatts of power is being delivered to the flash DC-DC converter.
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    The voltage across the capacitor is 133 volts, negative 133 volts.
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    The current going to the Nixie tube is 1.2 milliamps.
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    So, if you multiply 1.2 milliamps by a 133 and divide that by about 320 milliwatts,
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    you get just over 50 percent.
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    So, the efficiency, the DC-DC converter efficiency for turning one of these Nixie tube
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    on using a flash from a disposal flash camera is only about 50 percent,
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    which is very bad because you can make
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    DC-DC converters that are easily more efficient than 80 percent.
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    But, for hacking purposes and for something
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    that would have otherwise been thrown out and for educational purposes,
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    I think this is a great project that
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    if you have some experience dealing with high voltages,
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    I strongly recommend that you try it out.
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    Especially, if you've never played with Nixie tubes,
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    this things are really, really neat and they're not that expensive.
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    You can get them in all kind of patterns.
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    Doesn't have to be numbers.
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    Sometimes you can have them as bars or something else.
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    So I strongly recommend that you try this out, and then you see what you can do with it.
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    Just be very, very, very careful.
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    >> Well, I hope you enjoyed this episode playing with flash circuits and
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    Nixie tubes and I hope that we learned a thing or two about how these things operate.
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    Unfortunately, I'm going to have to break this video up again into
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    multiple sections because YouTube doesn't allow
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    me to upload anything that's more than 15 minutes.
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    But if you guys watch these videos and upper rank them,
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    then YouTube will eventually allow me to put
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    the entire episode in one video so you don't have to keep clicking.
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    So, please make sure you discuss this in
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    the comment section and also don't forget to answer
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    the quiz that I asked about why the neon light flashes as opposed to LED that doesn't?
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    Whoever gets the answer right,
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    will choose the next topic of the next episode.
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    We have a lot of videos,
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    a lot of equipment to review,
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    and a lot of interesting things coming in the future.
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    So, make sure you check back,
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    subscribe and I'll see you soon.
Title:
TSP #3 - Camera Flash Circuit and Nixie Tube Tutorial (Part 3/3)
Description:

In this episode (Part 3/3) Shahriar explores the principle operation of a camera flash circuit. The flash circuit is analyzed at the schematic level and through measurements. He then moves on to power a nixie tube using this circuit and calculates the efficiency of the DC-DC converter for this type of application. There is also a little quiz in this episode! Whoever solves the quiz will chose the topic of the next video.

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Video Language:
English
Duration:
14:12

English subtitles

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