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Cairo is a fascinating clash between traditional and modern,
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religious and secular, East and West.
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While its chaos can be exasperating,
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it can also be a rewarding challenge for the adventurous traveler.
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Cairo's downtown is modern and can feel European.
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Streets, squares, and grand buildings are reminders of the country's colonial past from the 19th and early 20th centuries.
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The riverfront throbs with energy, stately bridges busy with traffic,
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fancy riverside restaurants,
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and towering apartment complexes.
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The Nile is still the lifeblood of the city, sprawling endlessly on both sides.
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The heart of Cairo is Tahrir Square.
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It's long been ground zero for the people's spirit.
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If there's a demonstration going on,
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and there have been massive ones in recent years,
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it's likely here.
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In addition to its political energy,
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the city's long been a religious capital.
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Ever since the forces of Islam swept across North Africa from Arabia, in the 7th century,
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spreading the teachings of their Prophet Muhammad,
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Cairo has been a leading city of the Muslim world.
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And, today, Cairo's known as the City of a Thousand Minarets.
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Stepping into Al-Hussein Mosque, like any neighborhood mosque,
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you'll find a worshipful tranquility.
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It's believed that resting here invigorates the soul.
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There's more intensity around the adjacent shrine,
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believed to contain a sacred relic,
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the head of Al-Husayn ibn Ali,
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a grandson of the prophet Muhammad.
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In a mosque, men and women worship separately.
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As praying can be physical, with lots of bending over,
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it's considered more respectful to allow women their own space.
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I find that a respectful tourist is welcome to be a part of the scene.
