Cairo is a fascinating clash between traditional and modern,
religious and secular, East and West.
While its chaos can be exasperating,
it can also be a rewarding challenge for the adventurous traveler.
Cairo's downtown is modern and can feel European.
Streets, squares, and grand buildings are reminders of the country's colonial past from the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The riverfront throbs with energy, stately bridges busy with traffic,
fancy riverside restaurants,
and towering apartment complexes.
The Nile is still the lifeblood of the city, sprawling endlessly on both sides.
The heart of Cairo is Tahrir Square.
It's long been ground zero for the people's spirit.
If there's a demonstration going on,
and there have been massive ones in recent years,
it's likely here.
In addition to its political energy,
the city's long been a religious capital.
Ever since the forces of Islam swept across North Africa from Arabia, in the 7th century,
spreading the teachings of their Prophet Muhammad,
Cairo has been a leading city of the Muslim world.
And, today, Cairo's known as the City of a Thousand Minarets.
Stepping into Al-Hussein Mosque, like any neighborhood mosque,
you'll find a worshipful tranquility.
It's believed that resting here invigorates the soul.
There's more intensity around the adjacent shrine,
believed to contain a sacred relic,
the head of Al-Husayn ibn Ali,
a grandson of the prophet Muhammad.
In a mosque, men and women worship separately.
As praying can be physical, with lots of bending over,
it's considered more respectful to allow women their own space.
I find that a respectful tourist is welcome to be a part of the scene.