-
What defines
"deliciousness"?
-
Taste is tough
to explain, isn't it?
-
I would see ideas
in dreams.
-
My mind was bursting
with ideas.
-
I would wake up
in the middle of the night.
-
In dreams, I would have
visions of sushi.
-
Once you decide
on your occupation,
-
you must immerse yourself
in your work.
-
You have to fall in love
with your work.
-
Never complain
about your job.
-
You must dedicate your life
to mastering your skill.
-
That's the secret
of success
-
and is the key to being
regarded honorably.
-
I have published several
restaurant guidebooks.
-
I went to every sushi, soba,
tempura, and eel restaurant in Tokyo.
-
Nobody has eaten more
of these foods than I have.
-
Out of the hundreds
of restaurants that I ate at,
-
Jiro's was the best by far.
-
When I went to Jiro
the first time, I was nervous.
-
After going for years,
I am still nervous.
-
Jiro has a very stern look
on his face when he's making sushi.
-
It's comfortable for people
-
who like to have sushi
served at a fast pace.
-
But for people who want
to drink and eat slowly while chatting,
-
it won't be a comfortable
eating experience.
-
All of the sushi is simple.
It's completely minimalist.
-
Master chefs from around the world
eat at Jiro's and say,
-
"How can something so simple
have so much depth of flavor?"
-
If you were to sum up
Jiro's sushi in a nutshell...
-
"Ultimate simplicity
leads to purity."
-
- Excuse me.
- Yes?
-
Do you have a pamphlet
for this restaurant?
-
We don't have pamphlets.
We only have business cards.
-
Could I have one, please?
-
May I have one?
-
I came all the way
from Shizuoka.
-
Here are a few cards.
-
- Can I make reservations?
- Reservations are mandatory here.
-
How early do I need
the reservation?
-
- One month in advance.
- One month in advance?
-
Yes.
-
Since it's February now,
-
we're taking reservations
for March.
-
I see.
-
Reservations can be made
for lunch and dinner?
-
Yes, for both.
The price starts at 30,000 yen.
-
- 30,000 yen?
- It starts at 30,000 yen.
-
- Okay.
- The sushi and prices vary,
-
depending on what's
available at the market.
-
- I see.
- So it starts from 30,000 yen.
-
Can we order drinks
and appetizers to start?
-
We only serve sushi.
We don't have appetizers.
-
- Really?
- Yes.
-
- You don't have any other dishes?
- No.
-
- Only sushi.
- Yes.
-
- Okay, thank you.
- Thank you.
-
For fast eaters, a meal there
might last only 15 minutes.
-
In that sense, it's the most expensive
restaurant in the world.
-
But people who eat there are
convinced it's worth the price.
-
We're not trying
to be exclusive or elite.
-
The techniques we use
are no big secret.
-
It's just about
making an effort
-
and repeating
the same thing every day.
-
There are some who are born
with a natural gift.
-
Some have a sensitive palate
and sense of smell.
-
That's what you call
"natural talent."
-
In this line of business,
-
if you take it seriously,
you'll become skilled.
-
But if you want
to make a mark in the world,
-
you have to have talent.
-
The rest depends
on how hard you work.
-
He repeats the same
routine every day.
-
He even gets on the train
from the same position.
-
He has said that
he dislikes holidays.
-
The holidays are too long for him.
-
He wants to get back
to work right away.
-
It's unthinkable
for most people.
-
Is it good?
Is it too firm?
-
- Overall it's a little tough.
- Is it?
-
Probably because
it is young.
-
But the toughness
isn't that bad.
-
If it doesn't taste good,
you can't serve it.
-
It has to be better
than last time.
-
That's why I always taste the food
during preparation.
-
- It hasn't marinated enough.
- It is a bit fatty.
-
This doesn't taste
right either.
-
- How long has this marinated?
- For about five hours.
-
- Put it back in.
- It needs work.
-
Let's marinate it
in vinegar a little longer.
-
My father is right.
-
- Let's marinate it again.
- Put it in the vinegar again.
-
Put that one in the vinegar too.
-
- We'll try it again before serving.
- Okay.
-
I've seen many chefs
who are self-critical,
-
but I've never seen another chef
who is so hard on himself.
-
He sets the standard
for self-discipline.
-
He is always looking ahead.
-
He's never satisfied
with his work.
-
He's always trying to find ways
-
to make the sushi better
or to improve his skills.
-
Even now, that's what
he thinks about every day.
-
A great chef has
the following five attributes.
-
First, they take their work
very seriously
-
and consistently perform
on the highest level.
-
Second, they aspire
to improve their skills.
-
Third is cleanliness.
-
If the restaurant
doesn't feel clean,
-
the food isn't
going to taste good.
-
The fourth attribute
is impatience.
-
They are not prone
to collaboration.
-
They're stubborn and insist
on having things their own way.
-
What ties these attributes together
-
is passion.
-
That's what makes a great chef.
-
Jiro has all of these attributes.
-
He's a perfectionist.
-
The difference between Jiro today
and Jiro 40 years ago
-
is only that he stopped smoking.
-
Other than that,
nothing has changed.
-
When I apprenticed for him,
he wasn't famous yet.
-
But he always worked
incredibly hard.
-
He would only take a day off
if it was a national holiday.
-
The only time
he wasn't at the restaurant
-
was when there was
an emergency, like a funeral.
-
But he would still keep
the restaurant open.
-
I would say to the customers,
"Jiro is at a funeral,
-
so I will be your chef today."
-
I've worked hard,
so I have no regrets.
-
Seriously.
-
If Jiro has any regrets,
then he's crazy!
-
I feel sorry for his older son.
-
He should let
Yoshikazu take over.
-
Don't you think?
-
Yoshikazu is already 50.
-
Yes, he's only
12 years younger than I am.
-
Yoshikazu,
you probably didn't think
-
you'd be working
with your father so long.
-
I thought he was going
to retire long ago.
-
Everyone thought Jiro might
retire 10 years ago.
-
He was hospitalized once
when he was 70.
-
Then the Roppongi Hills
branch was opened.
-
Those were the two times
when he might have retired.
-
After he was hospitalized, we weren't
sure he could continue working.
-
How old were you when
you started training?
-
I started when I was 19.
-
You didn't like it at first?
-
I hated it at first.
-
For the first two years,
I wanted to run away.
-
We can have them
sit here and here.
-
But that way, Mr. Taniguchi
would have to sit at seat nine.
-
Have these guests
on seats one, two and three.
-
No, that won't work.
-
It wouldn't be fair to the people
who reserved last year.
-
Have them sit close together
to fit the other party.
-
It's essential
to check every detail.
-
What the staff might not notice,
-
I notice because I have been
doing it for so long.
-
I give them detailed
instructions on what to do.
-
Working there wasn't easy.
-
I worked for him
until he was 60.
-
I wouldn't say
he is eccentric.
-
He just works
relentlessly every day.
-
That's how shokunin are.
-
The way of the shokunin is
to repeat the same thing every day.
-
They just want to work.
-
They aren't trying to be special.
-
I could always tell
from his facial expressions
-
if he was in a good mood
or a bad mood.
-
And when it was best
not to bother him.
-
Once your boss,
always your boss.
-
Let's just say
-
I don't sleep with my feet
in his direction.
-
Remove the part
with tough meat.
-
We'll age a small tuna
for about three days.
-
We'll age a larger tuna
for up to 10 days.
-
When you compare
fatty tuna and lean tuna,
-
these days most people
prefer the taste of fat.
-
Before World War ll,
they used to cook fatty tuna.
-
The taste of the fatty tuna
is simple and predictable.
-
But the flavors of leaner cuts
are subtle and sophisticated.
-
Each tuna has
its own unique taste,
-
but it is the leaner meat that carries
the essence of the flavor.
-
We can't buy
just any tuna.
-
The tuna vendor works
exclusively with tuna.
-
Our shrimp vendor
only sells shrimp.
-
Each vendor is
a specialist in his field.
-
We are experts in sushi,
-
but in each of their specialties,
the vendors are more knowledgeable.
-
We've built up a relationship
of trust with them.
-
Sushi was originally sold
from street stands.
-
In New York, there are
food vendors on the street.
-
Sushi was once served
the same way.
-
It is said that
the "California" roll
-
was invented
between 1983 and 1985.
-
Sushi's popularity spread
quickly to New York...
-
and then spread to Europe.
-
In France, the first Michelin guide
was published in 1900.
-
Michelin inspectors
look first for quality.
-
Next they look for originality,
-
and finally
they look for consistency.
-
Jiro's restaurant easily
meets their standards.
-
A perfect three-star
Michelin rating means
-
it is worth making
a trip to that country
-
just to eat at that restaurant.
-
When Jiro got three stars,
everyone was astonished.
-
There are only 10 seats there!
The restroom is outside the premises.
-
There's not another three-star
restaurant in the world like that.
-
But the Michelin
investigators say,
-
"No matter how many times
you eat at Jiro's,
-
the sushi there is incredible."
They said that three stars
-
is the only rating adequate
for the restaurant.
-
I've never had
a disappointing experience there.
-
That's nothing short
of a miracle.
-
The layout of this second
restaurant is different
-
because I'm right-handed
and my father is left-handed.
-
The interiors are reversed.
-
The photo on the right
is Jiro's Sukiyabashi.
-
This is my Roppongi.
-
Together, they are symmetrical.
-
My father's skill is incomparable.
-
He's been making sushi
since before I was born,
-
so there's nothing
I can do to top him.
-
I have to lower my prices
to satisfy my customers.
-
Some of his customers say
-
they get nervous eating in front
of my father at his place.
-
They say I serve the same sushi
in a more relaxed atmosphere.
-
That's why they like coming here.
-
When l opened this restaurant,
my father said,
-
"Now you have no home
to come back to."
-
He said that I would be
buried in Roppongi.
-
Failure was not an option.
-
When you open your own restaurant,
you need to be tough.
-
I told him to leave
and open this restaurant
-
because I knew he could do it.
-
If he weren't ready,
I wouldn't have made him go.
-
But I felt he was ready,
-
so I gave him a gentle push
out the door.
-
But I told him,
"There is no turning back.
-
You must make your own way."
-
When I say things like this,
-
people often disagree.
-
But when I left home at the age of nine,
that's what I was told.
-
When I was in the first grade,
I was told
-
"You have no home
to come back to.
-
That's why you have
to work hard."
-
I knew that
I was on my own.
-
And I didn't want to have to sleep
at the temple or under a bridge,
-
so I had to work
just to survive.
-
That has never left me.
-
I worked even if the boss
kicked or slapped me.
-
Nowadays, parents tell their children, "You can
return if it doesn't work out."
-
When parents say
stupid things like that,
-
the kids turn out
to be failures.
-
I don't know much
about my parents.
-
I don't know
much about my father.
-
This is me.
-
It's 1927 or 1928.
-
They had a professional
photographer come
-
just to take this picture.
-
So, back then,
my father was making money.
-
He made good money taking
people on boat rides.
-
But his business failed
and his life fell apart.
-
All he did was drink.
-
Later, he went to work
at a military factory in Yokohama.
-
I heard that he died.
-
But I didn't go to the funeral.
-
I lived with him until I was seven.
-
I never heard from him again.
-
I was on my own after that.
-
Our father started as an apprentice
and was paid almost nothing.
-
According to our mother,
when they got married
-
they only had 10 yen
in their bank account.
-
That's how poor we were.
-
I remember when Coca-Cola
in cans first came out.
-
All the other kids
were drinking Coke,
-
but we were so poor
we didn't get to drink it.
-
Back then, in most
canned drinks
-
the flavors
were on the bottom.
-
I thought you had
to shake the can.
-
I shook it, and when l opened it
the liquid burst out.
-
We had saved up for months!
My brother was furious.
-
Less than half the liquid
remained in the can.
-
I felt so sorry.
-
Even now, he probably
thinks about it.
-
I still feel guilty.
-
When the kids were small,
Takashi would say,
-
on the rare occasion that I was
at home sleeping in on a Sunday,
-
"Mom, there's a strange man
sleeping in our house!"
-
It's a true story.
-
I would get up at 5:00
in the morning and go to work.
-
I would get home after 10:00
at night when he'd be asleep.
-
When they were young,
I didn't get to see them often.
-
I wasn't much of a father.
-
I was probably more
like a stranger.
-
Our father was always
strict with himself.
-
We hold ourselves
to the same standard.
-
I let them graduate
from high school.
-
Then they wanted
to go to college,
-
but I convinced them
to help out at my restaurant.
-
They didn't go to college.
-
It's difficult to maintain a restaurant
-
and it's difficult to leave
and start your own.
-
It's normal to be competitive
when you're younger.
-
You need competition
in order to improve.
-
But if we both were
to continue working
-
at our father's restaurant,
-
when he retires only one
of us could be the head chef.
-
And I don't think I'm inferior
-
to my brother just because
I was born later.
-
Were you jealous when Takashi
started his own restaurant?
-
In Japan, the eldest son
-
succeeds his father's position.
-
That's what is expected of me.
-
We came back to work
after World War ll.
-
The masters said that
the history of sushi is so long
-
that nothing new
could be invented.
-
They may have
mastered their craft,
-
but there's always room
for improvement.
-
I created sushi dishes
-
that didn't exist back then.
-
I would make sushi in my dreams.
-
I would jump out of bed
at night with ideas.
-
How did you serve shrimp before?
-
Like everyone else,
we boiled it in the morning
-
and put it in the refrigerator.
-
And then we took it out
when it was time to serve.
-
It was a lot easier back then.
-
Now we wait to boil the shrimp
until the customer arrives.
-
It's more work,
but it's worth it.
-
Octopus is another example.
-
I always felt that
my preparation was decent.
-
But I've since refined
my technique.
-
Back then, I would massage
the octopus for about 30 minutes.
-
Now it is massaged
for 40 to 50 minutes.
-
It's hard work
for the apprentices.
-
Too often,
octopus tastes like rubber.
-
It has no flavor.
-
We massage it to give it
a soft texture.
-
To bring out the fragrance
of the octopus, we serve it warm.
-
Shokunin try to get
-
the highest quality fish
and apply their technique to it.
-
We don't care about money.
-
All I want to do
is make better sushi.
-
I do the same thing over
and over, improving bit by bit.
-
There is always a yearning
to achieve more.
-
I'll continue to climb,
trying to reach the top,
-
but no one knows
where the top is.
-
Even at my age,
after decades of work,
-
I don't think I have
achieved perfection.
-
But I feel ecstatic all day.
-
I love making sushi.
-
That's the spirit
of the shokunin.
-
When to quit?
-
The job that you've worked
so hard for?
-
I've never once hated this job.
-
I fell in love with my work
-
and gave my life to it.
-
Even though I'm 85 years old,
-
I don't feel like retiring.
-
That's how I feel.
-
When Jiro retires
-
or when the inevitable
happens,
-
sushi may never reach
that level again.
-
But if Yoshikazu carries on
his father's legacy
-
and continues Jiro's style
of only making the finest sushi,
-
other chefs may follow his lead
-
and restaurants that focus only
on sushi may still flourish.
-
It's not going to be easy
-
for Yoshikazu to succeed his father
at the same restaurant.
-
Even if Yoshikazu makes
the same level of sushi,
-
it will be seen as inferior.
-
If Yoshikazu makes sushi
that's twice as good as Jiro's,
-
only then will
they be seen as equals.
-
That's how influential
his father is.
-
Sometimes, when the father
is too successful,
-
the son can't surpass him.
-
The first place I worked at
was a famous restaurant.
-
But when the son took over, all
the customers left and didn't come back.
-
It will be difficult.
-
I don't have anyone
to take over for me.
-
Jiro's ghost will always
be there, watching.
-
I think it will be difficult
when Jiro departs.
-
I wish my father could
make sushi forever.
-
But at some point
-
I'm going to have
to take his place.
-
People tell me that I should preserve
what my father has built.
-
We've gone through a lot to maintain
the integrity of this restaurant.
-
I must continue
my father's tradition.
-
Jiro stopped going to the
fish market at the age of 70.
-
He collapsed
while smoking a cigarette.
-
He had a heart attack.
-
It was after that he stopped
going to the market.
-
He felt that if he continued to go,
-
he wouldn't be able to pass
the torch to his son.
-
So the heart attack
was a catalyst
-
for Yoshikazu to start
going to the market.
-
- He's the undisputed champ.
- That's not true.
-
They did a TV special about him
and even showed a re-run!
-
I'm humbled that
Jiro respects my taste.
-
My methods
and standards are
-
a little unusual compared
to other vendors.
-
It is encouraging
that he trusts me.
-
I'm what you might call
"anti-establishment."
-
I either buy my first choice,
or I buy nothing.
-
If 10 tuna are for sale,
only one can be the best.
-
I buy that one.
-
The first impression
is very important.
-
We have to predict what
a fish will be like
-
based on experience and instinct.
-
I dig out a piece of the tail
and examine it.
-
By checking the texture
with my fingers,
-
I can tell how good it will taste.
-
This is the basic process
of choosing the fish.
-
Not good.
-
People are saying there are
a lot of tuna here.
-
This is nothing.
-
- How is the halibut?
- Good and fresh.
-
Okay, good.
-
His grandfather was known
as "the god of sea eel."
-
He was a legend.
-
I never met him in person,
-
but that's what I've heard.
-
- Do you have octopus?
- Yes.
-
Today's octopus is from...
-
- Sajima?
- It's from Yokosuka.
-
Was the color too dark?
-
I don't care about the color.
-
It just has to taste good.
-
The flavor is all that matters.
-
This one is two kilograms,
-
and this one is a little smaller.
-
We are picky
about who we sell to.
-
We want customers
who appreciate good fish.
-
Even at my age,
I'm discovering new techniques.
-
But just when you think
you know it all,
-
you realize that you're
just fooling yourself
-
and then you get depressed.
-
You must hold the shrimp firmly.
-
Put pressure on them.
-
If you hold them gently,
they'll try to escape.
-
Very few shrimp came in today.
-
They don't have any.
-
They didn't sell out.
No shrimp came in.
-
Just tell them
that we sold out.
-
There were only
three kilograms
-
of wild shrimp
in this whole market.
-
That's all.
-
Everybody thinks
we always have shrimp,
-
but it's hard to find them.
-
Sometimes, when I see
the shrimp in the morning,
-
I'll say, "Ah,
this is worthy of Jiro."
-
That's the way I do business.
-
It's not about the money.
-
These days, young people
want an easy job.
-
They want lots of free time
-
and they want lots of money.
-
But they aren't concerned
with building their skills.
-
When you work
at a place like Jiro's...
-
you are committing
to a trade for life.
-
Most people can't keep up
with the hard work and they quit.
-
Have there been
a lot of cases like that?
-
People often suddenly quit
and disappear.
-
They'll just leave
without notice.
-
What's the shortest
an apprentice has lasted?
-
One day.
-
Really, one day. They come in
the morning, but by night they are gone.
-
I've always loved anything fast.
-
I wanted to become a fighter pilot,
-
but they don't accept
people with bad vision.
-
Then I wanted
to be a race car driver,
-
but I didn't have enough money.
-
You need a sponsor because
race cars are so expensive.
-
When I was a kid,
-
I was sure I would be
an F1 racer.
-
- You're a speed freak?
- Yes, I'm crazy.
-
My car can go 300 kph.
-
Hello, Sho-chan.
-
They wanted nappa
and mulukhiya cabbage.
-
How are you doing?
-
Not doing too well.
-
I want to retire.
-
You don't want to work?
-
I'm exhausted, but your dad
is working so hard.
-
Yeah, he's working hard.
He's working harder than I am.
-
He's full of energy.
-
Thank you.
I hope you feel better.
-
When you work for Jiro,
he teaches you for free.
-
But you have to endure
10 years of training.
-
If you persevere for 10 years,
-
you will acquire the skills to be
recognized as a first-rate chef.
-
It's sad to see that there are no
very young apprentices at Jiro's.
-
Taking 10 years to learn
the necessary skills
-
is a long time compared
to other fields of work.
-
When did you want
to become a sushi chef?
-
I was about 17.
-
I needed a job but couldn't
decide what to do.
-
I wanted to do
something with food
-
and sushi is the coolest food.
-
That's how I decided.
-
I went to several restaurants,
but the sushi here was the best.
-
So I applied for the job.
-
The atmosphere was
different too.
-
This place has
an interesting vibe.
-
I came here to eat
by myself when I was 24.
-
The place made me nervous.
-
Did Jiro make you sushi?
-
- No, it was you.
- Oh, really?
-
I was so nervous eating here.
-
I don't remember that at all.
-
Now you guys are
all fulfilling your dreams.
-
Maybe you think you made
the wrong decision.
-
Okay, let's get to work.
-
Everybody works to please Jiro.
-
All that matters is
Jiro's approval.
-
Jiro is like the maestro
of an orchestra.
-
When you first sit down at Jiro's
-
they give you
a hand-squeezed hot towel.
-
An apprentice must first be able
to properly hand squeeze a towel.
-
At first the towels are so hot,
they burn the apprentice's hands.
-
It's very painful training,
which is very Japanese.
-
Until you can adequately squeeze a towel, they
won't let you touch the fish.
-
Then you learn to cut
and prepare the fish.
-
After about 10 years,
they let you cook the eggs.
-
I had been practicing making
the egg sushi for a long time.
-
I thought I would be good at it.
-
But when it came
to making the real thing,
-
I kept messing up.
-
I was making up to four a day.
-
But they kept saying,
"No good, no good, no good."
-
I felt like it was
impossible to satisfy them.
-
After three or four months,
-
I had made over 200
that were all rejected.
-
When I finally did
make a good one
-
Jiro said, "Now this is
how it should be done."
-
I was so happy I cried.
-
It was a long time before Jiro
referred to me as a shokunin.
-
I wanted to shout, "You just called me
a shokunin, didn't you?"
-
I was so happy that I wanted
to throw my fist into the air!
-
But I tried not to let it show.
-
That's what you strive for
after all these years.
-
After Nakazawa opens
his own place,
-
Takeshita and Masuda
-
will be promoted to
Nakazawa's position.
-
The work that Takeshita
and Masuda were doing
-
will be taken over
by newcomers.
-
I'm in charge of tasting.
-
You should slice the fish thinner.
-
The rest is okay.
-
Make sure you slice the fish thinly.
-
Only apply gentle pressure.
-
He gives me advice.
Yoshikazu says,
-
"Press the sushi as if you are
pressing a little chick."
-
- A chick?
- Right, a baby chicken.
-
You don't want to squash it.
-
But there is much
you can't learn from words.
-
I have to keep practicing.
-
There's too much wasabi.
-
- It's making me cry.
- I'm sorry.
-
- You just grated the wasabi, right?
- Yes.
-
Okay, good job.
-
He needs time to grow.
-
There is still
a long way for him to go,
-
but I think he will improve.
-
It depends
on how hard he works.
-
In order to make delicious food,
you must eat delicious food.
-
The quality of ingredients
is important,
-
but one must develop a palate capable
of discerning good and bad.
-
Without good taste,
you can't make good food.
-
If your sense of taste is lower
-
than that of the customers,
how will you impress them?
-
When I think of someone with a highly
acute sense of taste and smell,
-
the first person I think of is the great
French chef Joël Robuchon.
-
I wish I were as sensitive as he.
-
I have a very good
sense of smell,
-
but he's on another level.
-
His sensitivity is very high.
-
If I had his tongue and nose,
-
I could probably make
even better food.
-
He knows everything about rice.
-
He's different
from the other dealers.
-
He knows so much.
-
That's why we trust him.
-
However, sometimes
he seems so knowledgeable
-
that I get suspicious
he's making it all up!
-
The hotel near Takashi's restaurant
came to me.
-
I told them certain rice can only
be prepared by Jiro's disciples.
-
- It was the Hyatt Hotel.
- Oh, the Grand Hyatt.
-
- They asked you for our rice?
- I told them, "No way!"
-
I said even if I wanted
to sell it to them...
-
only Jiro knows
how to cook it!
-
If Jiro told me to sell it
to them, I would,
-
but I can't sell it to them just
because they ask for it.
-
Everybody loves our rice.
-
But if they can't cook it,
what's the use?
-
It takes significant skill
to cook this rice.
-
What's the point of buying rice
that you can't cook?
-
- It's not so easy, is it?
- Mmm.
-
You can't cook rice
like this just with big talk.
-
We put a lot
of pressure on the rice.
-
The lid itself is so heavy
that it takes two hands to lift.
-
And then we place
a big pot of water on top.
-
With the type of rice we use,
-
you need a lot of pressure.
-
I can't think
of any other restaurant
-
that puts this much pressure
on the rice.
-
But that's fine with us,
-
because we can keep using
the best rice
-
and our rivals won't
be able to imitate us.
-
The temperature of the rice
is very important.
-
Most people think
sushi is cold.
-
But actually, the rice should be
served at body temperature.
-
We've devised techniques to maintain
the perfect temperature when serving.
-
The temperature and freshness
of the fish
-
are crucial.
-
Each ingredient has an ideal moment
of deliciousness.
-
Mastering the timing
of sushi is difficult.
-
It takes years of experience
to develop your intuition.
-
The sushi must be eaten
immediately after it is served.
-
To explain umami...
it takes more than just
-
a good piece of tuna to create
the sensation of umami.
-
- It's when...
- You eat it together
-
with vinegared rice
and soy sauce.
-
The umami is brought out
through the balance of the flavors.
-
For example,
when you drink a good beer,
-
you'll exclaim "Ahh!"
after you drink it.
-
That's a form of umami.
-
Or when you take a bath,
-
you say "Ahh!"
because it feels good.
-
The most important part
of making good sushi is this:
-
creating a balance between
the rice and the fish.
-
If they are not in complete harmony,
the sushi won't taste good.
-
The order is also important.
In traditional Japanese cuisine,
-
there is a progression
in how the dishes are served.
-
Heavier flavors are
served later in the course.
-
There is an ebb and flow
to the menu.
-
For 10 years,
Jiro pondered ways
-
to incorporate this
concept into his menu.
-
Seven years ago,
he formed the structure
-
of the tasting course
that he serves today.
-
From all the fish
at Tsukiji market,
-
he chooses
the highest quality fish
-
and creates
the course menu of the day.
-
I was lucky enough to be
the first person to try this menu.
-
When I ate the sushi,
I felt like I was listening to music.
-
Jiro's sushi course
is like a concerto.
-
The meal is divided
into three movements.
-
Classic items,
like tuna and kohada,
-
are presented
in the first movement.
-
The items in
the second movement
-
are fresh catches of the day.
-
Certain items that can only be found
seasonally are served.
-
Some of the fish is raw,
while some is cooked.
-
The second movement is
like an improvisation.
-
It's like a cadenza.
-
In the third movement,
sea eel, kanpyo
-
and egg comprise
a traditional finale.
-
There are dynamics in the way
the sushi is served,
-
just like music.
-
You're consuming
Jiro's philosophy with every bite.
-
He's watching us much more closely
than we're watching him.
-
I make the sushi different sizes
-
depending on
the customer's gender.
-
If I made everybody's
the same size,
-
it would disrupt
the pace of the meal.
-
So I make the sushi
a little smaller for the ladies
-
so everybody finishes
at the same time.
-
That's incredible.
-
If the men and women
are seated randomly,
-
does it make things difficult?
-
The first thing we do is memorize
the seating arrangement.
-
Man, woman,
woman, man, et cetera.
-
If Jiro notices
a guest using his left hand,
-
the next piece of sushi will be
placed on the left side.
-
So you adjust accordingly
for that guest.
-
I'm left-handed,
so l understand
-
how left-handed people feel.
-
That's so considerate.
-
Jiro is making more sushi now
than ever before.
-
Before, customers would
start with drinks.
-
And then they would
eat appetizers.
-
Then they would eat four
or five sushi at the end.
-
And then they would be full.
-
Now l only make sushi
from start to finish.
-
I make 20 pieces per person.
-
Jiro is the oldest chef
-
to have been awarded
three stars by Michelin.
-
He's in the Guinness Book
of World Records.
-
Nobody in their 80s
is working day and night like Jiro.
-
Jiro was given the Meikou Award
by the Japanese government.
-
He went to the award ceremony
during the day
-
and was back at work here
in the evening.
-
He said he got tired
of sitting around.
-
When we have good tuna,
I feel great.
-
While I'm making the sushi,
-
I feel victorious.
-
That's how it makes me feel.
-
Thank you for the delicious meal.
-
Take care of yourself!
-
- Thank you very much.
- The sushi was so delicious.
-
Thank you very much.
-
Until the end, l only want to work
with the best fish.
-
Yoshikazu and I have
meetings at night.
-
I tell him what I want
for the next day.
-
He sometimes tells me
-
that there isn't
any good fish available,
-
but he still comes back
with enough fish for one day.
-
I first noticed that good seafood
was becoming scarce
-
when the akagai started
to disappear.
-
And then the good
hamaguri disappeared.
-
It used to be easy
to get good anago,
-
but now they're gone.
-
If you have a sushi restaurant,
-
you'll have to find substitutes
for certain types of fish.
-
But is there a substitute for tuna?
I don't think so.
-
Back when I was younger,
-
there was never a shortage
of high-quality fish.
-
In the past, when I would
go to the market,
-
I could see the big tuna
that were just cut open
-
and I would ask them
to bring out the ones I liked.
-
That was true for any fish.
-
You can't find fish
like that anymore.
-
When we were kids,
-
sushi was too expensive
to eat regularly.
-
Now they have sushi
on conveyor belts
-
and in convenience stores.
-
Sushi is available
everywhere,
-
which has caused
a shortage of fish.
-
The problem is over-fishing.
-
The tuna stocks are
declining each year.
-
It takes 10 years for them
to weigh 100 kilograms.
-
Net-fishing
and bottom-trawling methods
-
catch everything,
even the young fish.
-
Regulations on catching only
bigger fish should be enforced.
-
Catching the smaller fish
before they've matured
-
lowers the overall numbers.
-
Businesses should balance profit
-
with preserving
natural resources.
-
Without fish,
-
we can't do business.
-
However, that doesn't mean
they should catch
-
all the fish
to the brink of extinction.
-
For posterity,
-
we must be conscious
of this issue.
-
Welcome!
-
It has been awhile.
How are you doing?
-
- How are you?
- I'm doing great!
-
- We're still alive!
- What are you saying?
-
This is my oldest son.
-
He looks just like you.
-
Thank you for gathering.
-
When Jiro and this guy
were in the first grade,
-
they were infamous troublemakers.
-
I wasn't a bully.
-
He was.
-
He was the number one
troublemaker.
-
I was number two.
-
Later, when you were
at school,
-
I was delivering lunches
for military draftees.
-
She brought all her friends
to the window,
-
they all looked down at me
-
and she yelled,
"He's the one who bullied me!"
-
I said, "I'm not just bullying her,
I'm bullying everyone!"
-
They'll get mad at us
if we go in.
-
You're not supposed to clap
your hands at a Buddhist temple.
-
Of course.
Did you know that?
-
Yes, you don't clap
in a Buddhist shrine.
-
You're going
to get in trouble.
-
It's okay,
I'm not doing anything bad.
-
Where is everybody?
-
I haven't been here
for a long time.
-
- The flowers are dead.
- Yes, they are.
-
Just water them.
-
I guess we were supposed
to bring flowers.
-
Maybe next time.
-
I don't know why
I come here.
-
My parents
didn't take care of me.
-
You shouldn't say things like that in front of your
ancestors.
-
You'll be punished.
-
Lots of spider webs.
-
When I was in school,
-
I was a bad kid.
-
Later, when I was invited
to give a talk at the school,
-
I wasn't sure if I should tell the kids
that they should study hard
-
or that it is okay to be a rebel.
-
I wasn't sure what advice
to give the kids.
-
Studying hard
doesn't guarantee
-
you will become
a respectable person.
-
Even if you're a bad kid,
-
there are people
like me who change.
-
I thought that would be
a good lesson to teach.
-
But if I said that bad kids can succeed
later on like I did,
-
all the kids would
start misbehaving,
-
which would be a problem.
-
Always doing what
you are told
-
doesn't mean
you'll succeed in life.
-
There were customers today
-
that came to eat
after seeing us on TV.
-
I am usually the one on TV
and I'm the one making the sushi,
-
which is what
the customers expect.
-
They think that Nakazawa
just carries the fish from the kitchen.
-
Customers think that all
Yoshikazu does is cut the fish.
-
They think the staff
in the kitchen has it easy.
-
And they think the master
making sushi has the hardest job.
-
But in reality,
the sushi is 95% complete
-
before the fish
is brought out to me.
-
So the guy who is
doing the least work
-
gets to take all the limelight.
-
I entrust all the preparations
to these guys.
-
I'm in the luckiest
position right now.
-
Customers still think that
he does all the preparations.
-
They probably do.
-
They think he still
does everything.
-
But if you think about it,
-
they're all just doing
what I taught them.
-
Is sushi easily
misunderstood?
-
The person making the sushi
is almost like a performer.
-
It is misunderstood that way.
-
Compared to tempura
or soba chefs,
-
sushi chefs are
more interesting to watch.
-
- That may be true.
- It's like the sushi chef is on a stage.
-
That may be true.
-
My job is the easiest!
-
If I don't keep working,
my body will become worthless.
-
If my body stops functioning,
then I will have to quit.
-
Or if I look too hideous to be here,
then I will retire.
-
It's not up to me.
-
If the customers see me
and think that I look too senile...
-
if that's what people think,
then I will have no choice.
-
If I stopped working at 85,
-
I would be bored
out of my mind.
-
I would be kicked
out of the house.
-
My wife would kick me out
for being such a nuisance.
-
I have been able to carry on
-
with the same job
for 75 years.
-
It's hard to slow down.
-
I guess I'm in the last
stretch of the race.
-
The Michelin inspectors said,
-
"Jiro's sushi is
incredible every time."
-
They said, "Three stars
is the only rating
-
that is adequate
for the restaurant."
-
Later on, I heard that
during the first year
-
that Jiro's was
checked by Michelin
-
Jiro didn't make sushi
for Michelin even once.
-
Yoshikazu was the one
who made sushi for them.
-
I want both of my sons
to continue on.
-
They both will run
their own restaurants.
-
I will admit I trained my sons
-
more strictly than
the other apprentices.
-
But I did so for the sake
of their futures,
-
not because I wanted
to be mean to them.
-
It's something that I thought about
from the beginning.
-
Even if I were
to be gone right now,
-
I know they can go on.
-
Yoshikazu just needs to keep it up
for the rest of his life.
-
That's what is most important.
-
He should just keep
doing the same thing
-
for the rest of his life.
-
Always...
-
look beyond
and above yourself.
-
Always try...
-
to improve on yourself.
-
Always strive
to elevate your craft.
-
That's what he taught me.