Brake Hand Up during a Fall? 0.92s to bring it down... or...!
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0:00 - 0:03so, imagine that i am belaying with the
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0:03 - 0:06tube style device.
The higher my brake -
0:06 - 0:09hand goes, the lower mechanical advantage
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0:09 - 0:11it gives.
So here is the question, if I -
0:11 - 0:14would have my brake hand right here, and
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0:14 - 0:16my climber would take a fall at this
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0:16 - 0:18moment, will Ii have enough reaction to
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0:18 - 0:21bring my hand down or my hand will
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0:21 - 0:24simply just get sucked into the device?
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0:24 - 0:26and maybe I will get hurt and let go
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0:26 - 0:28this hand and
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0:28 - 0:30sad story. Ready, so to make this
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0:30 - 0:32experiment a little bit safer, I started
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0:32 - 0:35with my break hand a little bit above
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0:35 - 0:39the belaying device go
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0:40 - 0:41whoa
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0:41 - 0:42ow
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0:42 - 0:47i got my hand pinched in the device
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0:47 - 0:58[Music]
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0:59 - 1:01probably somebody's already typing in
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1:01 - 1:03the comments, "oh you should never
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1:03 - 1:05keep your hand here".
Good if you have -
1:05 - 1:08that feeling, then my job so far is going
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1:08 - 1:11well so let's continue.
- Ready? -
1:11 - 1:14yep
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1:14 - 1:16well now I had like a reaction to go
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1:16 - 1:19down because I was scared
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1:19 - 1:22I was anticipating it and I went like
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1:22 - 1:24The main reason for this demonstration
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1:24 - 1:27is that I see mistakes both in beginners
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1:27 - 1:29and advanced climbers.
Beginners, -
1:29 - 1:32sometimes do this, where they take the
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1:32 - 1:33slack
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1:33 - 1:38very slowly as the climber is moving and
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1:38 - 1:40then they lower the hand and do their
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1:40 - 1:43favorite transition, and then they take
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1:43 - 1:46the slack slowly again and rise the hand
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1:46 - 1:49way too high
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1:49 - 1:50don't do this!
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1:50 - 1:52go!
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1:52 - 1:53whoa
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1:53 - 1:55yeah now I kind of learned the instinct
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1:55 - 1:58I guess it boils down to how quick you
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1:58 - 2:01are exactly my first was probably the
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2:01 - 2:03most realistic where I was not like
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2:03 - 2:04quick as
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2:04 - 2:06what's the quick animal? you know a quick
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2:06 - 2:07animal?
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2:07 - 2:09cheetah
- yeah so if i don't have a -
2:09 - 2:12reflexes of cheetah, the hand just goes
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2:12 - 2:14into the belaying device. m
Maybe also the -
2:14 - 2:18glove provides better grip on the rope
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2:18 - 2:20okay
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2:20 - 2:22that's
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2:22 - 2:25for you
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2:25 - 2:28if Ii get hurt,
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2:28 - 2:30please send me some donations!
so now I'm -
2:30 - 2:33gonna hold it really up, man this is
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2:33 - 2:35scary!
While experienced belayers -
2:35 - 2:38sometimes do this.
If they see the -
2:38 - 2:40climber falling and they decide that
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2:40 - 2:43they want to take some of the slack out
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2:43 - 2:45and they do this quickly. If they would
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2:45 - 2:49miss time and their hand would go up in
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2:49 - 2:51the moment where the climber would load
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2:51 - 2:53the rope they might not have enough time
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2:53 - 2:56to bring the hand down and the reason
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2:56 - 2:58why i'm saying this,
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2:58 - 2:59because
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2:59 - 3:01i know a person who was dropped down
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3:01 - 3:04with this device.
It's a click up it's -
3:04 - 3:06assisted device
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3:06 - 3:09meaning it locks
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3:09 - 3:10however,
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3:10 - 3:13if you have your brake hand up here
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3:13 - 3:15it doesn't lock. The person who I met
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3:15 - 3:18told me a story how his belayer tried to
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3:18 - 3:20take out the slack really quickly during
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3:20 - 3:22the fall but he fell all the way to the
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3:22 - 3:24ground. So i'm gonna talk about belaying
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3:24 - 3:26devices later but you must know that
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3:26 - 3:30even some of assisted belaying devices
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3:30 - 3:32do not protect from this. Man this is
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3:32 - 3:34scary
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3:34 - 3:38don't do this ever
Venga! (spanish for go!) -
3:39 - 3:42[Music]
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3:47 - 3:50[Music]
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3:51 - 3:53just because I know that he's about to
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3:53 - 3:56fall and i'm kind of
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3:56 - 3:59ready to lower my hand so I'm not saying
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3:59 - 4:01that taking out the slack during the
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4:01 - 4:03fall is a big no, i'm just telling you
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4:03 - 4:06what are the risks and if you want to do
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4:06 - 4:09this be a cheetah, and if you're not a
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4:09 - 4:11cheetah maybe use assisted belaying
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4:11 - 4:13device which doesn't have this risk
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4:13 - 4:16let's do one more
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4:18 - 4:20i'm getting known already for being a
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4:20 - 4:22bit crazy
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4:22 - 4:25so one more of what not to do
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4:25 - 4:28go
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4:29 - 4:32man this is scary
- yeah -
4:32 - 4:33so
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4:33 - 4:35it ended up here and I was holding here
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4:35 - 4:38so it's not that much slippage
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4:38 - 4:40but again just because I know also
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4:40 - 4:42probably somebody is gonna comment that
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4:42 - 4:45your hand shouldn't ever go up it should
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4:45 - 4:47go forward and down
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4:47 - 4:50but I guess if you're trying to take a
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4:50 - 4:53slack really quickly doing forward and
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4:53 - 4:55down
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4:55 - 4:58might be not as quick and comfortable as
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4:58 - 5:00something like this
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5:00 - 5:03so in the end my goal is not to tell you
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5:03 - 5:05what to do just to demonstrate what are
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5:05 - 5:08the potential risks if you are not the
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5:08 - 5:10cheetah or you are not aware that these
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5:10 - 5:14things can happen like in the story with
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5:14 - 5:17more life-saving tips here and here is a
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5:17 - 5:19very in-depth course on climbing
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5:19 - 5:22equipment and safe belaying and if you have
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5:22 - 5:24seen all of it already good news I'm
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5:24 - 5:27already working on new episodes for it
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5:27 - 5:31oh and this episode is brought to you by
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5:31 - 5:34you, people who are supporting my channel
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5:34 - 5:37by visiting my website and knowing how
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5:37 - 5:42to do that thank you enjoy climbing
- Title:
- Brake Hand Up during a Fall? 0.92s to bring it down... or...!
- Description:
-
Will I be able to bring my brake hand down or my hand will get sucked into Belaying Device?
If a Climber Falls while Belayers brake hand is up many belaying devices won't provide enough assistance and might result into burned brake hand and potentially fatal accident.
In this experiment I used skinny 9.0 Mammut Sender Rope to maximise the change of failure!
I highly recommend to not try this! None of the catches felt comfortable!If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: https://hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason that allows me do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben♫ Music for my videos comes from
https://www.epidemicsound.com/referral/yeiaom - Video Language:
- English
- Team:
- Hard Is Easy
- Project:
- Belay Masterclass
- Duration:
- 05:42
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