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Brake Hand Up during a Fall? 0.92s to bring it down... or...!

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    so, imagine that i am belaying with the
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    tube style device.
    The higher my brake
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    hand goes, the lower mechanical advantage
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    it gives.
    So here is the question, if I
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    would have my brake hand right here, and
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    my climber would take a fall at this
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    moment, will Ii have enough reaction to
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    bring my hand down or my hand will
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    simply just get sucked into the device?
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    and maybe I will get hurt and let go
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    this hand and
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    sad story. Ready, so to make this
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    experiment a little bit safer, I started
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    with my break hand a little bit above
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    the belaying device go
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    whoa
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    ow
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    i got my hand pinched in the device
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    [Music]
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    probably somebody's already typing in
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    the comments, "oh you should never
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    keep your hand here".
    Good if you have
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    that feeling, then my job so far is going
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    well so let's continue.
    - Ready?
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    yep
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    well now I had like a reaction to go
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    down because I was scared
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    I was anticipating it and I went like
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    The main reason for this demonstration
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    is that I see mistakes both in beginners
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    and advanced climbers.
    Beginners,
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    sometimes do this, where they take the
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    slack
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    very slowly as the climber is moving and
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    then they lower the hand and do their
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    favorite transition, and then they take
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    the slack slowly again and rise the hand
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    way too high
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    don't do this!
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    go!
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    whoa
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    yeah now I kind of learned the instinct
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    I guess it boils down to how quick you
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    are exactly my first was probably the
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    most realistic where I was not like
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    quick as
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    what's the quick animal? you know a quick
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    animal?
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    cheetah
    - yeah so if i don't have a
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    reflexes of cheetah, the hand just goes
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    into the belaying device. m
    Maybe also the
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    glove provides better grip on the rope
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    okay
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    that's
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    for you
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    if Ii get hurt,
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    please send me some donations!
    so now I'm
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    gonna hold it really up, man this is
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    scary!
    While experienced belayers
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    sometimes do this.
    If they see the
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    climber falling and they decide that
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    they want to take some of the slack out
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    and they do this quickly. If they would
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    miss time and their hand would go up in
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    the moment where the climber would load
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    the rope they might not have enough time
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    to bring the hand down and the reason
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    why i'm saying this,
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    because
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    i know a person who was dropped down
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    with this device.
    It's a click up it's
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    assisted device
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    meaning it locks
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    however,
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    if you have your brake hand up here
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    it doesn't lock. The person who I met
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    told me a story how his belayer tried to
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    take out the slack really quickly during
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    the fall but he fell all the way to the
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    ground. So i'm gonna talk about belaying
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    devices later but you must know that
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    even some of assisted belaying devices
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    do not protect from this. Man this is
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    scary
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    don't do this ever
    Venga! (spanish for go!)
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    [Music]
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    [Music]
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    just because I know that he's about to
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    fall and i'm kind of
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    ready to lower my hand so I'm not saying
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    that taking out the slack during the
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    fall is a big no, i'm just telling you
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    what are the risks and if you want to do
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    this be a cheetah, and if you're not a
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    cheetah maybe use assisted belaying
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    device which doesn't have this risk
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    let's do one more
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    i'm getting known already for being a
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    bit crazy
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    so one more of what not to do
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    go
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    man this is scary
    - yeah
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    so
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    it ended up here and I was holding here
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    so it's not that much slippage
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    but again just because I know also
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    probably somebody is gonna comment that
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    your hand shouldn't ever go up it should
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    go forward and down
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    but I guess if you're trying to take a
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    slack really quickly doing forward and
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    down
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    might be not as quick and comfortable as
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    something like this
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    so in the end my goal is not to tell you
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    what to do just to demonstrate what are
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    the potential risks if you are not the
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    cheetah or you are not aware that these
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    things can happen like in the story with
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    more life-saving tips here and here is a
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    very in-depth course on climbing
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    equipment and safe belaying and if you have
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    seen all of it already good news I'm
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    already working on new episodes for it
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    oh and this episode is brought to you by
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    you, people who are supporting my channel
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    by visiting my website and knowing how
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    to do that thank you enjoy climbing
Title:
Brake Hand Up during a Fall? 0.92s to bring it down... or...!
Description:

Will I be able to bring my brake hand down or my hand will get sucked into Belaying Device?

If a Climber Falls while Belayers brake hand is up many belaying devices won't provide enough assistance and might result into burned brake hand and potentially fatal accident.

In this experiment I used skinny 9.0 Mammut Sender Rope to maximise the change of failure!
I highly recommend to not try this! None of the catches felt comfortable!

If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: https://hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason that allows me do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben

♫ Music for my videos comes from
https://www.epidemicsound.com/referral/yeiaom

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Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
05:42

English subtitles

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