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[Music]
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so imagine that i am playing with the
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tube style device.
The higher my brake
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hand goes, the lower mechanical advantage
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it gives.
So here is the question, if i
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would have my brake hand right here, and
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my climber would take a fall at this
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moment, will i have enough reaction to
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bring my hand down or my hand will
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simply just get sucked into the device?
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and maybe i will get hurt and let go
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this hand and
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sad story. Ready, so to make this
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experiment a little bit safer, I started
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with my break hand a little bit above
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the belaying device go
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whoa
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ow
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i got my hand pinched in the device
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[Music]
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probably somebody's already typing in
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the comments, "oh you should never
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keep your hand here".
Good if you have
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that feeling, then my job so far is going
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well so let's continue.
- Ready?
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yep
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well now I had like a reaction to go
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down because I was scared
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I was anticipating it and I went like
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The main reason for this demonstration
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is that I see mistakes both in beginners
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and advanced climbers.
Beginners,
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sometimes do this, where they take the
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slack
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very slowly as the climber is moving and
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then they lower the hand and do their
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favorite transition, and then they take
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the slack slowly again and rise the hand
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way too high
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don't do this!
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go!
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whoa
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yeah now I kind of learned the instinct
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I guess it boils down to how quick you
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are exactly my first was probably the
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most realistic where I was not like
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quick as
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what's the quick animal? you know a quick
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animal?
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cheetah
- yeah so if i don't have a
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reflexes of cheetah, the hand just goes
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into the blank device. m
Maybe also the
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glove provides better grip on the rope
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okay
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that's
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for you
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if Ii get hurt,
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please send me some donations!
so now I'm
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gonna hold it really up, man this is
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scary!
While experienced belayers
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sometimes do this.
If they see the
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climber falling and they decide that
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they want to take some of the slack out
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and they do this quickly. If they would
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miss time and their hand would go up in
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the moment where the climber would load
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the rope they might not have enough time
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to bring the hand down and the reason
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why i'm saying this,
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because
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i know a person who was dropped down
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with this device.
It's a click up it's
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assisted device
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meaning it locks
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however,
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if you have your brake hand up here
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it doesn't lock. The person who I met
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told me a story how his belayer tried to
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take out the slack really quickly during
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the fall but he fell all the way to the
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ground. So i'm gonna talk about belaying
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devices later but you must know that
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even some of assisted belaying devices
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do not protect from this. Man this is
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scary
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don't do this ever
Venga! (spanish for go!)
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[Music]
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[Music]
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just because I know that he's about to
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fall and i'm kind of
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ready to lower my hand so I'm not saying
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that taking out the slack during the
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fall is a big no, i'm just telling you
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what are the risks and if you want to do
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this be a cheetah, and if you're not a
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cheetah maybe use assisted belaying
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device which doesn't have this risk
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let's do one more
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i'm getting known already for being a
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bit crazy
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so one more of what not to do
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go
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man this is scary
- yeah
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so
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it ended up here and I was holding here
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so it's not that much slippage
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but again just because I know also
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probably somebody is gonna comment that
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your hand shouldn't ever go up it should
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go forward and down
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but I guess if you're trying to take a
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slack really quickly doing forward and
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down
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might be not as quick and comfortable as
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something like this
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so in the end my goal is not to tell you
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what to do just to demonstrate what are
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the potential risks if you are not the
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cheetah or you are not aware that these
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things can happen like in the story with
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more life-saving tips here and here is a
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very in-depth course on climbing
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equipment and safe belaying and if you have
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seen all of it already good news I'm
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already working on new episodes for it
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oh and this episode is brought to you by
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you, people who are supporting my channel
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by visiting my website and knowing how
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to do that thank you enjoy climbing