-
Imagine islands at the end of the world
-
with endless fields
-
ocean
-
forests
-
volcanoes
-
small towns
-
and amazing views
-
that's what Azores are
-
...I'm still learning)
-
Welcome to the Big Episode from Azores Islands!
-
Let's go!
-
Ladies and gentlemen, meet Azores!
-
An extremely green and isolated place,
-
with unique climate and ecstatic scenery.
-
Azores are god knows where...
-
so let's kill the romance and touching views
-
and discuss the prosaic stuff first.
-
I mean, how do you get to this place?
-
...and how much were the tickets?
-
As for tickets,
-
to get to Azores during off season
-
is an adventure of its own,
-
because it's only large cities
-
where you can get a direct flight from.
-
I found a good ticket via Lisbon for $675,
-
whilst the whole trip took 11 hours.
-
...and here are some important IFs
-
If you have a week to spare,
-
first check the city of your connecting flight.
-
Aviasales comes in very handy here.
-
We can either go via Lisbon or check out Milan instead.
-
...or maybe even Paris?
-
Aviasales will show you the fastest routes
-
and those that will spare some time
-
so you could check out the connecting cities.
-
So if you do like to visit new places,
-
you can stop over at Porto for example,
-
it's a beautiful city that won't burn a hole in your wallet,
-
and then fly out to Azores the next day.
-
Such tickets may be cheaper,
-
plus it's the new emotions that are priceless!
-
Safe to say that I enjoyed getting to Azores,
-
but let's answer the main quetion...
-
Where the hell is it?
-
Locations like these
-
are usually called end of the world,
-
and Azores are right at the edge of it all,
-
since they are 1500km away from Europe,
-
and 2500km away from Canada!
-
That's all, plus the ocean.
-
Azores are even hard to find on a map,
-
but they are right in the middle of the Atlantic.
-
It's a very small archipelago,
-
that is roughly like Luxembourg, surface wise.
-
It's 9 islands that are very far from the rest of the world.
-
Still,
-
Azores aren't the most remote islands,
-
overtaken by Tristan da Cunha,
-
which is 2800km away from South Africa
-
and 3300km from South America.
-
Only difference,
-
is that it's population is 250 people,
-
whilst Azores are home for 250,000.
-
Azores boast a good infrastructure
-
and a never ending tourism growth.
-
But before we delve into the islands,
-
it's time for a history lesson!
-
Archipelago was uninhabited,
-
until Europeans set foot on it in year 14.. something
-
thanks to Portuguese colonisers.
-
Vasco Da Gama, the guy who opened the route to India
-
and Christopher Columbus also paid a visit.
-
The latter thought that he reached India,
-
but we all know how that ended.
-
Azores became an autonomous part of Portugal in 1976,
-
but despite Portuguese language and EUR currency,
-
they are quite different to Portugal.
-
Culture, dialect and traditions are different
-
because inhabitation took centuries.
-
The main difference of course is the climate!
-
It's winter now,
-
and weather would have been much better if it was summer,
-
but again, during summer,
-
there are many other places that are also warm,
-
with no gale winds and are sunny.
-
This is why Azores are very unique,
-
located on the 38th latitude in deep North,
-
it's plus 15 celsius here.
-
Just so you come to terms with it
-
it's the same latitude as Athens
-
where winters are cold and Seoul,
-
where temperatures may reach -15,
-
followed by snow of course!
-
Azores never had snow, nor frost,
-
and although winters are chilly,
-
the climate remains very soft.
-
Moreover, when the sun comes out,
-
it becomes just grand!
-
Warm Gulf Stream current is the reason behind it,
-
and however harsh the ocean may look,
-
water temperature varies between 16c and 25c
-
...depending on the season.
-
Air temperature is also soft,
-
whilst locals wear jackets only when if it rains.
-
There is no central heating on Azores,
-
and radiators are typically substituted by flowers,
-
hence people in bars wear jackets,
-
which is not a case of bad taste.
-
The point of my trip is to figure out
-
how good Azores are during winter...
-
and whether you should postpone your visit till summer.
-
Let's get to it!
-
Advantages of the off season become clear
-
as soon as you rent a car, which is cheap,
-
unless you are used to auto transmission,
-
that will limit your options.
-
In my case,
-
its the available space that is limited.
-
Our exploration starts on Sao Miguel island,
-
which is the largest out of the bunch
-
and it takes 1.5 hours to cross it,
-
which is extremely far by local standards!
-
Ponta Delgada is the island's capital,
-
and houses a fifth of archipelago's population.
-
The less people there are,
-
the less problems there are too,
-
especially for police.
-
The town came across as very empty,
-
with nothing much to do
-
apart from discovering the variety of sidewalks.
-
Portuguese seem to have a Ph. D. in this,
-
and it's more of an art here.
-
Tiles form quite funky patterns
-
and look pretty amazing.
-
This is a local star alley for example.
-
Tiles aren't only on pavements but also walls,
-
being part of a azulejo, traditional Portuguese tilework,
-
they comprise street signs and mosaics on houses.
-
It looks grand,
-
but won't be mind-blowing if you ever visited Portugal.
-
As for the locals...
-
I came across some city gathering
-
that included army, kids, clergy and parishioners,
-
but it seemed like they weren't too happy to see me filming.
-
Hence I decided to bail out of the city,
-
because as it usually happens,
-
that's where the interesting starts.
-
Some roads here resemble park lanes,
-
but it's just normal intercity roads,
-
whilst the island is like one large park.
-
Sao Miguel's unofficial name is Green Island,
-
which is understandable, given these sceneries.
-
These green hills at times resemble Farer Islands,
-
and sometimes Switzerland...
-
See?
-
It's thanks to the climate and mountains
-
that Azores boast such greenery
-
as mountains block the clouds,
-
generating a massive load of humidity.
-
Azores are very humid, whilst fog is never an occasion,
-
allowing ideal pastures to stretch to the horizon.
-
It is thanks to the warm climate
-
that cows never leave the fields...
-
They sleep here and get milked on the spot.
-
Azores are a heaven for cows to be put simply.
-
Farer Islands look very similar too,
-
but as you remember they lack forests,
-
which favourably distinguishes Azores,
-
playing in as a strong advantage,
-
that is both interesting and beautiful!
-
Forests
-
What puts me in awe here,
-
is the abundance of flora and all its greenery.
-
Air is unreal here,
-
which may partly be due to the humidity,
-
plus all this greenery that is just everywhere.
-
Azores were comprised of forests only,
-
prior to inhabitation by people
-
who in turn cut most of it out,
-
but then transported new trees from the mainland.
-
Luckly,
-
the relict forest that used to be here,
-
remains untouched.
-
Moreover it is protected by EU!
-
Azores are one of the most eco places on earth,
-
with no harmful manufacturing in the radius of 1500km,
-
whilst thanks to humidity,
-
it is a complete plants galore.
-
It can't be put through film,
-
but this place is blooming even during winter!
-
Utter blossom paradise, this!
-
I feel like I am in Costa Rica jungle...
-
there is sooo much greenery!
-
Islands' isolation makes it a perfect place
-
to collect various trees and plants at,
-
to save them from any possible epidemics on mainland.
-
Azores became Noah Ark for plants,
-
There is bamboo for example,
-
palms that I don't know the name of,
-
and this ficus that was brought from Australia,
-
that doesn't look that big until you come close to it.
-
Flora variety is insane here.
-
In order to describe this variety more precisely,
-
I'd like to introduce a special term...
-
Endemic!
-
(regularly found among certain area)
-
This term is mainly applicable to flora and fauna,
-
highlighting the specific region it belongs to.
-
Kangaroos for example are exclusive to Australia,
-
or the galapagos turtle,
-
...can only be found on Galapagos Islands.
-
Azores on the other hand,
-
house 411 endemic types,
-
that can only be seen here and nowhere else.
-
This includes not only plants
-
but also insects and animals,
-
whilst I was lucky enough to see the Azores noctule
-
that hunts in daylight and is endemic to Azores.
-
Birds are also part of the gang,
-
like the Azores bullfinch (not this one!).
-
Birds typically use Azores as a stop over
-
before crossing the Atlantic
-
and hence there is lots of them here.
-
As for other advantages,
-
Azores don't have mosquitos and venomous animals,
-
plus archipelago is not subjected to epidemics.
-
By now you may think that this place is heaven
-
and question if there are disadvantages to it...
-
First, houses are covered in mold due to humidity,
-
secondly, there is tax on cats,
-
who apart from being super cute,
-
and somehow manage to accumulate lots of likes in IG,
-
are counted as invasive animals!
-
- You rude!
-
...and several kinds of birds
-
became extinct because of them.
-
Another disadvantage,
-
especially during winter,
-
is a quick changing weather and strong winds.
-
...Sun makes this place heavenly,
-
both climate and temperature wise.
-
Whilst a light breeze can quickly turn into a gale
-
and the biggest problem
-
is that weather changes very fast.
-
Atlantic climate is unpredictable and both Farers
-
and Azores suffer from quick changing weather.
-
Just because it's clear blue skies in the evening,
-
doesn't mean that wind won't change it overnight,
-
turning it all to worse.
-
Resultantly, no one relies on weather forecast
-
and instead use an app called SpotAzores,
-
that shows actual weather via webcams
-
located all over the islands.
-
I on the other hand got lucky with the weather,
-
packed up my car and drove into the island,
-
to show you the interesting side of Sao Miguel.
-
Just decades ago,
-
there was nothing you could do here
-
apart from farming and whaling.
-
I mean you could literally die from boredom...
-
Than, a series of interesting events happened.
-
First, archipelago got connected to broadband,
-
thanks to the cable that links US and Europe.
-
Secondly, Portugal started investing money
-
in infrastructure development and roads.
-
Then low-cost airlines joined the party,
-
and people started flocking in!
-
As a result, tourism is expanding at great pace,
-
although winters make this place empty.
-
Nevertheless, Portuguese government
-
heavily invest in roads and highways
-
and the infrastructure is spotless.
-
Today, Azores are comfortable to travel through
-
and it is clear that infrastructure is well maintained.
-
The plans to turn Azores into one big resort
-
have existed for decades,
-
but not many were successful in it.
-
Monte Palace hotel is a good example of this,
-
opened in 1989 and closed shortly after in 1990,
-
all due to low tourist flow.
-
It was a luxury 5 star hotel with 88 rooms,
-
two restaurants and a night club.
-
Today, the hotel is fully deserted,
-
but to get inside of it is now a touristic specialty.
-
...despite the dangers.
-
People try to get in mostly because of great views
-
that open upon the rooms' balconies.
-
This used to be an amazing view...
-
I mean it still is,
-
it's just that there are no visitors.
-
I actually looked up that some Chinese investors
-
decided to buy this place out,
-
so who knows...
-
Maybe this hotel will open its doors once again.
-
Oh and by the way,
-
hotel views open up to Sete Cidades lake,
-
situated in the crater of a humongous stratovolcano.
-
See how fast the cloud are moving?
-
That's how strong the wind is...
-
I even struggled to make my drone fly.
-
There are a bunch of other calders nearby,
-
with beautiful volcanic lakes in them,
-
only visible from the sky unfortunately.
-
But if you want to behold of this view personally,
-
you'll have to go up to a peak,
-
poetically called: A viewpoint on Hell!
-
View Point
-
Unfortunately i don't have long hair,
-
that would curl in the wind right now,
-
courtesy of a wind so strong
-
that I physically struggle to withstand it!
-
In return though,
-
you get a great view on the lakes
-
and Sete Cidades town.
-
Yep, you heard me right...
-
Azoreans have built a city in the volcano crater
-
that is 400m deep and 5km in diameter,
-
home to 800 people.
-
Try to kill the thought that it's a volcano,
-
and doesn't it now look like Switzerland?
-
As you may have noticed,
-
locals try to make full use of location's specifics,
-
by for example developing fully operational geothermal powerplants
-
on several islands of Azores.
-
They aren't developing as quickly as Icelandic ones,
-
but are pretty substantial still.
-
Secondly,
-
the hot springs serve as a perfect tourist attraction.
-
There are of course man made pools for it,
-
but it's best to go up the Fogo Volcano
-
to witness a hot waterfall with high iron consistency.
-
There are only three pools here,
-
but this place is incredibly picturesque,
-
and literally drowns in greenery,
-
which makes it just perfect!
-
Entrance costs 5EUR (Hi Iceland!)
-
Hot springs are perfect in cold weather,
-
and although it is +17c now,
-
I still reckon it would be amazing to dive in right now.
-
Volcanoes are the main architects here,
-
sometimes creating unreal masterpieces,
-
and I am keen to show you one.
-
This place is just outside Vila Franco do Campo town,
-
half a kilometre away from the beach.
-
It is very unusual!
-
It is an uninhabited volcanic island,
-
formed as a product of underground eruption.
-
As a result, it acquired a caldera 150m in diameter,
-
and when you look at it from above
-
it's hard to believe that it is not man made,
-
as the circle is near perfect.
-
Best part about it is that in summer
-
this place serves as a beach,
-
secluded from oceanic waves.
-
It's depth is 20m.
-
Volcanoes tie in many things on the island,
-
including black sand beaches,
-
and a shoreline full of black rocks.
-
Hotels of course, also try to bite a piece of it.
-
Volcanic House hotel
-
is fully made out of the volcanic stones
-
and I stayed there for a night.
-
As gets dark fast here,
-
most of my time was spent at the hotels.
-
...and this is what I was generally up to:
-
I charge all my batteries
-
and as I have so many of them,
-
it does take a while!
-
I would then back up all my files
-
and plan my route for the next morning.
-
To be honest this is just for show,
-
I don't usually use paper maps.
-
Main point is that even during trips,
-
there is time for useful stuff.
-
I've always been amazed by Regina Todorenko,
-
who would always learn new languages
-
in the breaks during her trips.
-
I can't comprehend how tough it must have been,
-
but the fact remains.
-
So why don't you try the same on Cambly,
-
where you can learn new languages
-
from English natives on any device you have!
-
You don't have to wait for a dedicated lesson time,
-
just go on Cambly and browse available tutors.
-
Filters allow you to even specify accent,
-
if you aren't happy with British)
-
Try practicing your English twice a week,
-
and you will see how much easier it will be
-
to converse with foreigners, discover new things,
-
and generally feel more comfortable abroad!
-
As for motivation,
-
Cambly prepped a promo with a discount for you!
-
The code will be in the description below!
-
Back to volcanoes for now...
-
They've done quite enough damage
-
which will be evident on the next island,
-
but volcanoes are also the reason behind such rich greenery.
-
Volcanic soil is full of sulphate,
-
and sulphate is a great fertilizer!
-
Add lack of winter
-
and you get near ideal farm environment.
-
...and yes we'll now talk about farming!
-
I haven't gone crazy, don't worry,
-
but owing to such climate
-
you can practically grow any kind of fruits.
-
Pineapples for example.
-
Azores is the only place on earth
-
where pineapples are cultivated in greenhouses,
-
Pineapple by the way grow like grass,
-
not on palm trees.
-
They get exported at an early growth stage
-
since they don't have long shelf life.
-
...and here is how they ended up here...
-
A couple of centuries ago,
-
Azores were supplying whole Europe with oranges.
-
and as you can imagine
-
there were lots of plantations here.
-
But then climate change happened
-
and all orange plantations were lost to it.
-
It brought a great deal of trouble
-
because it takes 10 years for an orange tree to fruit.
-
Pineapples on the other hand only need 2 years!
-
Azores' supply most low acidity pineapples on the planet,
-
and hence they are quite sweet.
-
Azores are also home to a tea plantation,
-
that is the only tea plantation in Europe!
-
Tea was brought here by Portuguese sailors
-
who were returning on their ships from India.
-
What's interesting is that Azoreans
-
hired two tea specialists from Macao,
-
which is also a Portuguese colony,
-
to oversee the plantations.
-
Hence, we can state that this Portuguese tea,
-
is very close to authentic Chinese tea.
-
This is the tea manufacturing facility,
-
that apart from machinery has a tea room
-
where a sommelier test the product.
-
These facilities are packed during summer
-
allowing tourists to see how tea is made,
-
which can't be said about winter,
-
as it is off season even for tea.
-
The shop though is never empty
-
and you get treated to a free tea,
-
which is very nice of them.
-
Best thing is that excursion is free
-
and you aren't expected to buy tea afterwards either,
-
but you still do it out of courtesy)
-
A whole pack of tea is less than 3EUR.
-
The real discovery for me on Sao Miguel
-
became the parks...
-
I never thought that I would love the parks on Azores
-
as it is not the islands' praised trait.
-
You can't even call them parks,
-
they are more of some Zen places
-
and I think it's one of the strong advantages of the island.
-
It would be weird to come here for parks only,
-
but they are actually amazing!
-
Let me show you the best one
-
that I have managed to find...
-
It's called Terra Nostra
-
It would be shameful to call this place a park,
-
it was empty and seemed like one large forest
-
with thousands of plants,
-
attacking your eyes with green colour!)
-
It's hard to communicate the smells, its calmness
-
and how beautiful it is.
-
The park houses a well known thermal pool,
-
built more than 200 years ago.
-
...and of course you can swim in it.
-
There are other hot springs too
-
and people do come specifically for them,
-
but as for myself,
-
I just loved to stroll around, resting my soul.
-
Guys I haven't gone old overnight, no
-
but I never enjoyed parks,
-
as much as now!
-
Do visit them if you are around.
-
Second discovery of mine, were the viewpoints.
-
Beautiful views are one of the main products of Sao Miguel,
-
as thanks to geography,
-
there are many cliffs, ocean and more...
-
Basically wherever you look,
-
will prove to be beautiful!
-
Locals of course do utilise it in full,
-
setting up lots of viewpoints
-
that basically come one after another.
-
They are well equipped,
-
with gazebos, bbq equipment including firewood,
-
basically it's top notch!
-
I've stopped at every one of them
-
and never did I regret it!
-
Just as I was warming up views per se,
-
the island has ended...
-
I've reached the island's Eastern end,
-
the town of Nardeste,
-
home to the uttermost lighthouse on the island.
-
After it, it's the ocean and Europe,
-
far after the horizon.
-
It actually took me less than a tank
-
to drive the island through and through.
-
Sao Miguel is like a tester island of Azores,
-
comprising the general palette of the archipelago.
-
Most people don't travel out of it,
-
but as for me,
-
it took me 3 days to see everything here in turbo mode,
-
and I am keen to see the nearby islands now.
-
...and to show them to you!
-
Let's go then people!
-
There is ferry line between the islands
-
but number of islands it serves is small during winter,
-
hence plane becomes your best bet.
-
Completely forgot to mention,
-
that planes are like busses here.
-
People get off, some get on,
-
and we are back in the skies.
-
Second Stop
-
Bathrobe in plus 11 celcius isn't the best idea,
-
but hey, we are on the islands...
-
This one is called Faial,
-
whilst the one next to it is Pico.
-
I plan to spend couple of days here
-
and look around since these islands aren't huge.
-
We'll begin with the capital of this island,
-
called Horta.
-
As you remember,
-
we are between Europe and America,
-
and this island boasts the best bay,
-
on the Azores archipelago.
-
It is well protected from big waves,
-
and used to serve as an airfield for aviation.
-
Planes, back in the middle of last century
-
weren't capable of crossing the Atlantic
-
and required a re-fuelling point like Faial.
-
Today, it's one of the most visited marinas in the world,
-
a place where all yachtsmen meet,
-
before their Atlantic crossing.
-
You can store your boat here, hide from storms,
-
or just rest for couple of days, stock up on food,
-
and dry your clothes.
-
There aren't many yachts here during winter,
-
but I did see this one,
-
a British yacht Challenger, returning from Caribbean.
-
This guy from Belorussia turned out to be pat of the crew.
-
- I am Alexey Matrosov
-
- [Anton] Is it your real surname?
-
- [Alex] Yes indeed!
-
According to the Horta customs,
-
Alexey is one of the first Belorussians to visit Horta.
-
- We arrived yesterday,
-
- and the captain went off to register us.
-
- She came back and said that border control
-
- never saw a passport like mine.)
-
- They even had to google whether it's a real country.
-
- [Anton] Belorussia?)
-
Throughout the existence of this marina,
-
a couple of unique customs popped up.
-
One of these traditions
-
is that every yacht that stops over,
-
must leave a drawing to commemorate its visit.
-
As you can imagine, there are thousands of them...)
-
There are more than 10000 drawings
-
and they are just everywhere!
-
On walls, ground and even benches.
-
It would probably take you a couple of days
-
to see all of them
-
and every pier is also filled with them to the brink.
-
I actually got tired filming it all)
-
Every art piece includes the yacht's name,
-
crew names, country of origin and year.
-
Some don't bother too much with creativity,
-
whilst others put their soul into it.
-
It's an amazing ritual
-
that allows you to study the history of this place.
-
Big thanks to municipality
-
that supports this tradition in full.
-
Some art is over 20 years old
-
and when paint starts to degrade, it gets covered in wax.
-
Top life hack though, is to use the tiles.
-
This one is over 10 years old,
-
but still looks like new!
-
Hence if you plan to leave your mark here,
-
better use the tiles,
-
and just to relieve your worries,
-
there is still lots of space around.
-
We are not done with customs yet,
-
as Horta is home
-
to the most famous yacht cafe in the world,
-
that is over 100 years old.
-
It's called Peter's Cafe Sport.
-
Many yachting celebrities were here,
-
and as tradition,
-
everyone that sails in must stop by this cafe.
-
It's not big,
-
but it's a place where you spend first 15min
-
studying all the artefacts that were gathered
-
throughout the 100 years of cafe' existence.
-
Cafe is managed by 3rd generation of the same family,
-
and the kid on the picture is Hose,
-
who manages the cafe for over 40 years.
-
He is quite famous here.
-
It was possible to exchange cash in the cafe,
-
and it served as a post office,
-
where sailors' relatives would send post to.
-
...and plus they feed you)
-
Not sure what food was like before,
-
but it's pretty good now too.
-
Second floor is dedicated to scrimshaw museum,
-
the art of engraving on bones
-
and it's one of the largest private collections.
-
Each painting is a precise engraving
-
that is then filled with ink.
-
Such process usually takes months,
-
but in the end you get a real masterpiece.
-
...especially porterts wise.
-
Here's Hose,
-
Cousteau,
-
and this portret is over 100 years old.
-
All these drawings were made on sperm whale' teeth,
-
and since whaling is banned,
-
this collection is most likely not to be updated.
-
Still,
-
you should definitely pay a visit to this place!
-
I forgot to tell you yesterday
-
that I rented this Fiat Panda for 60EUR,
-
and best part about it,
-
is the built in phone holder,
-
which is just perfect for rent cars,
-
so you don't have to carry one with you.
-
I guess you expect me to indulge in the sights of Faial,
-
but to be frank it's tiny and I didn't even realise
-
how quickly I reached the middle of it.
-
Here is a winter perk for you,
-
all parking spaces at touristic spots
-
are absolutely empty!
-
I came to the highest point of the island,
-
which is 1000m above the sea level,
-
and since Azores are volcanic islands,
-
I guess you can imagine what was waiting on top.
-
A massive advantage to this caldera
-
is the hiking trail that takes you around the crater
-
...if weather allows of course.
-
I got very lucky in this regard...
-
First clouds parted above Faial,
-
and then despite the weather forecast
-
the skies became clear above Pico,
-
baring the peak, usually hidden in thick clouds.
-
I swear guys,
-
moments like these make me happy like a child!
-
I came to terms that I won't see the peak
-
but here it is...)
-
(don't worry, I'll fix my eye sight for next time)
-
The plan was to tell you about Pico whilst on it,
-
but given the weather,
-
there is no point to delay it!
-
Let me explain why am I so happy...
-
The Pico mount isn't that high,
-
rising only 2351m above sea level.
-
But what if I tell you,
-
that it is one of the most highest mountains in the world!
-
We only see what's above the sea level,
-
and it's largest part is actually underwater,
-
so if there was no ocean here,
-
it would have been part of that list,
-
reaching 8400+ metres.
-
...which is only 400m lower than Everest!
-
Darlings,
-
just in case you also get lucky with the weather,
-
I guarantee you an unforgettable experience!
-
It's a Portuguese Mount Fuji, I tell you.
-
I mean Pico doesn't look like Fuji,
-
but is very similar by emotions count.
-
We on the other hand,
-
are on route to another iconic place,
-
that is also connected to volcanoes.
-
This time though, in a sad way.
-
Faial is home to the strongest volcano eruption
-
in the recent history of Azores.
-
It's traces can be witnessed near a small village of Capello,
-
in the Western part of the island.
-
The lighthouse that you see now,
-
looks pretty average at first glance,
-
but it plays a critical role in understanding of what happened.
-
As you know,
-
lighthouses are positioned to be noticeable,
-
and this is why they are usually placed close to the shoreline,
-
so to be seen from all angles.
-
This lighthouse was also built with that in mind,
-
and it used to be right on the edge of the island.
-
...used to be until 1957!
-
That's when eruption of Capelinhos started,
-
which altered the scenery of Faial.
-
As a result,
-
this is what the shoreline looks like today.
-
Some eruptions die quickly,
-
some volcanoes erupt smoke long after,
-
but Capelinhos is differrent...
-
It erupted not for days, nor weeks,
-
but 13 months in a row!
-
This, added more terrain to the island, 2.5sq km in size.
-
It's on your screens now,
-
whilst the lighthouse is hidden far behind it.
-
Aftermath of such eruption became critical for Faial!
-
A third of island's population fled,
-
whilst government started to provide free housing,
-
which didn't stop people from leaving,
-
scared of the unknowns that the future holds.
-
Interestingly, US provided Azoreans visas,
-
and in turn 1500 people moved there,
-
now forming a large community of Azoreans in US,
-
size of which greatly prevails
-
the original number of Azorean' immigrants.
-
Nearby villages suffered the most,
-
especially village Capello,
-
that bursts with traces of the catastrophe.
-
It was quite difficult to find witnesses of the tragedy,
-
but I found some in this cafe.
-
It is there where I also found a picture
-
with the lighthouse we saw earlier.
-
Meet Thomas, who told me
-
that the eruption was preceded by earthquake
-
that lasted for over a week!
-
People were very scared,
-
some hid in the nearby villages,
-
whilst others left forever.
-
This indeed is a beautiful place,
-
as for the village...
-
it never managed to recover,
-
now serving as home to only 500 people,
-
which is 5 times less than before the eruption.
-
Faial isn't big
-
and it takes maximum 30min to get anywhere.
-
Locals are used to such compactness,
-
and see it as an advantage!
-
Ferry to Pico
-
This is my third rental during my trip
-
and at such pace I'll soon become a car blogger.)
-
Now, let's delve into Pico Island.
-
It doesn't come as picturesque at first glance,
-
looking slightly apocalyptic instead.
-
The shoreline is full of kwels and trees,
-
looking just like in the Stalker game.
-
...plus lots of black volcanic stones.
-
Pretty sad at first glance...
-
But
-
Pico turned out to be incredibly interesting!
-
Although it mainly consists of black stone,
-
locals learnt to build houses out of it,
-
that look quite stylish if you ask me.
-
How about this?
-
Book sharing between not more than 50 houses.)
-
This island is basically a mount,
-
a mount with no beaches of course,
-
but even here locals managed to make natural pools
-
that are secluded from waves
-
and boast all the necessities.
-
Some villages have standard pools instead
-
making them municipal, which also is a great idea.
-
Being a volcanic island,
-
I was expecting nothing but black ashes here,
-
instead, locals grow bananas, oranges, lemons,
-
plus the island is quite green.
-
Grape cultivation nevertheless,
-
overshadows the rest by size.
-
It's not your typical vines either, protected by UNESCO.
-
First colonisers of Azores,
-
were met by stones
-
and climate suitable for grape cultivation.
-
They then got to work to make these basalt labyrinths...
-
and this is the result!
-
The point of these walls
-
was to protect vines from strong wind,
-
plus black stones accumulate heat from the sun,
-
which in turn adds warmth to the vines.
-
Resultantly,
-
Azores became home for vines as of 15th century,
-
which continues even in our days.
-
It is exactly this unique landscape of Pico,
-
that is protected by UNESCO.
-
In winter it looks like a basalt tetris game,
-
but I reckon that it all changes during summer,
-
becoming very scenic!
-
Interestingly,
-
the wine from these fields
-
was spotted in the cellars of Russian Tsar family.
-
These locals have more to say on this...
-
- Nikolay the Second!
-
So I went on a search for this wine,
-
visited a bunch of wine shops
-
but only managed to find it in this very cool cafe.
-
The wine is called Czar,
-
which sounds similar to Tsar.
-
A glass of it is only 5EUR,
-
but the owner has more expensive wine too.
-
...that looks like this!
-
Then, this friendly cafe owner
-
called Rui
-
gave me directions to the winery
-
that produces the aforementioned wine.
-
His name is Fortunado Garcia,
-
and this is his small family winery,
-
wine from which was supplied to Vatican and Tsars.
-
This wine is not strengthened with alcohol,
-
and still reaches 18+ degrees.
-
According to Fortunado, it is the only wine in the world
-
that reaches such numbers by natural fermentation!
-
Of course it is not easy to grow such grapes.
-
Here is an example of it...
-
2008
-
production of 2009
-
but there was nothing in year 2010,
-
because the grapes weren't sweet enough.
-
Good years do exist though, like year 2009,
-
when wine reached unthinkable 20 degrees!
-
It is the exact wine that the cafe owner told us about,
-
and there are only 6 bottles left!
-
...I mean right here,
-
there may be more in private collections though.
-
It's price is 1500EUR.
-
I was treated to wine that is not on sale yet,
-
from season of 2013 and according to Fortunado,
-
it is the best wine from the last 20 years.
-
There is roughly 80EUR in this glass right now!
-
I'd love to tell you about its taste but I can't.
-
Although I have many friends who understand wine,
-
I am absolute zero in this,
-
and I can only say whether it is nice or not...
-
This one is nice!)
-
Attentive viewers will probably say,
-
that this whole scenery resembles Canary Islands
-
to a great extent.
-
Especially the island of Lanzarote...
-
I do agree that the landscape looks similar,
-
with its lava fields and stones,
-
but Pico has one difference to its advantage!
-
Pico, compared to Lanzarote is very green,
-
with beautiful landscapes and palette full of colour.
-
What's super cool is that you can fly in,
-
rent a car and explore the island from top to bottom.
-
There is hardly any traffic (Hi Bali),
-
very interesting people and places,
-
and I truly enjoy exploring it!
-
What else do you need?
-
Pico's population is similar to Faial,
-
but the island is three times bigger,
-
meaning that there are hardly any tourists in winter,
-
making for a very peaceful commute.
-
Best part of it, was the trip to volcano.
-
The clouds at the peak of the mount
-
constantly change form,
-
making it seem as if the mount changes hats.
-
Sometimes, clouds embrace it all,
-
which is a very hypnotic sight!
-
The slopes of the mountain boast ideal pastures,
-
lots of greenery and look opposite to apocaliptic.
-
Azores really know how to suprise you!
-
It feels like I am in New Zealand right now,
-
but it's the middle of Atlantic...
-
Crazy!
-
The road to the top at times becomes quite foggy,
-
and visibility turns down to zero.
-
That's what the mount looked like...
-
Nevertheless, the scenery was extremely picturesque,
-
and the best part about it,
-
is that you can always drive back to the ocean
-
and its good weather,
-
spend some time by the water
-
and if you are lucky, see the sunset develop before you.
-
This trip helped me to reset,
-
as if I visited a psychotherapist,
-
and Pico in winter is something I truly enjoyed!
-
Pico turned out to be a revelation,
-
most likely thanks to off season and lack of tourists,
-
which is very nice.
-
Secondly, I got very lucky with weather,
-
as I was mainly expecting rain,
-
but instead, as you see, it's just perfect.
-
To me, Pico right now is the best thing
-
I discovered on Azores,
-
but since we have one more island to explore,
-
let's refrain from final remarks.
-
I definitely should have kept quiet about the weather,
-
as from then on it only got worse.
-
The wind was so strong
-
that my luggage decided to travel on its own,
-
plus my flight got cancelled.
-
This is quite typical for local winters,
-
so the airline changed my flight,
-
booked a hotel for me and next morning after a ferry trip to Faial,
-
I was on a plane to my final destination.
-
Nothing can describe local weather better,
-
than taking off in the rain
-
and landing in clear blue skies.
-
Flores is the smallest and most Western island
-
of the archipelago.
-
It is home for 3700 people,
-
plus as of late, locals can't give birth here
-
and must fly to Faial or Sao Miguel.
-
To give you a better understanding
-
of how compact this island is,
-
the runway here goes through the streets of the town,
-
splitting it into two parts,
-
and in order to get from one side to another,
-
you practically have to go around the airport.
-
The town's name is derived from lush vegetation,
-
that blossom all over it.
-
I'd love to continue the story,
-
but sun is out which is rare here,
-
and I must absolutely go now.
-
I haven't seen a single car on my way to the next point.
-
Flores is quite distant from archipelago,
-
and tourists leave it deserted in winters.
-
...which is a shame!
-
This island is like a Jurassic Park,
-
with fantastic landscapes and untouched nature.
-
Main attraction here is the cascade of waterfalls
-
called Ribeira do Ferreiro,
-
that can be accessed by a trail paved with stones.
-
No idea when and who made it,
-
but it looks like it came out of fairytale!
-
It feels like I am one of those Portuguese colonisers
-
who just arrived to discover something utterly new!
-
This is just insane...
-
...like a pandora of sorts.
-
There are no people here apart from myself,
-
local warden and just wild nature,
-
these waterfalls, this lake...
-
It's just wow!!!
-
Turned out it's not even a warden,
-
but a local who cuts grass here,
-
hence it's safe to say that I was there all alone!
-
...it was absolutely unreal!
-
In case you haven't noticed, I have a new drone...
-
Meet Kamikaze!
-
It's a racing drone
-
that reaches 150km/h in less than 2 seconds.
-
This thing is wild and hard to control!
-
It's my third month of training with it
-
and I've only touched the surface of it.
-
Everyone who flies these fpv drones
-
dreams to do a dive with it,
-
where you go up and then dive down vertically.
-
I will now attempt this for the first time
-
near those waterfalls...
-
I am very worried, but hope it turns out well.
-
Best of luck to me!
-
Don't know if you see this...
-
...my hands are shaking!
-
It's super scary but I hope it turned out well.
-
Whilst exploring Flores,
-
I constantly wondered that if it's so beautiful in winter,
-
what must it be like during summer...
-
I haven't seen all Azores islands,
-
but Flores is definitely my type of an island.
-
It is hard to reach, there aren't many people on it,
-
local sights are shockingly beautiful,
-
plus I can't get rid of a feeling
-
that I am at the end of the world!
-
As for the island's end,
-
I found that also...
-
During 9 days of this trip
-
I managed to visit 4 out of 9 islands.
-
The plan was to visit 5 but the weather put a lid on it.
-
Maybe it's for the best, so I could come back again...
-
Azores' greenery is astonishing!
-
...actually I've left already
-
and am now at the airport of Lisbon.
-
This is what it looks like...
-
The reason for this is because weather turned to worse,
-
and I had to change my flight
-
to be able to leave Azores while I could.
-
As a result,
-
I am filming this feedback at the airport,
-
next to these plastic flowers... Sorry!
-
Not a single time did I regret visiting Azores in winter,
-
as the islands are very green,
-
beautiful and practically empty.
-
Weather on the other hand is unpredictable
-
but I can't complain since I was still lucky with it.
-
Luck though has a tendency to end,
-
so it's up to you whether to choose winter or summer.
-
Summers on Azores must be beautiful,
-
but winters are also perfect!
-
I truly enjoyed this trip,
-
having a chance to finally rest my soul,
-
enjoying the beautiful scenery, left, right and centre!
-
Fantastic place!
-
It's slightly sad
-
that there are less and less unexplored places
-
left on my list of visited countries,
-
that are so remarkably beautiful,
-
whilst discovering them is my favourite part of travelling!
-
This is why I wish you to explore more
-
and find your own places,
-
as it is just unbelievable!
-
Do travel guys,
-
it is still worth it!!!
-
See ya!