-
Hey. Welcome to another episode of get thready
with me. Today, I’m going to show you all
-
how to make a high-neck sleeveless crop top.
This style of shirt is a really nice, basic,
-
yet flattering piece to own, and they go with
pretty much – anything.
-
So let’s go!
-
Okay, so the first thing I need to do is to
make the pattern, and to do this I pick out
-
a t-shirt that fits me well, is fairly tight-fitting
and is made out of stretchy fabric. You can
-
pretty much use any tight-fitting t-shirt
– but the most important thing is that the
-
t-shirt needs to have a high back of the neck.
-
So to make the pattern, I first turn this
t-shirt inside out. It needs to lie with the
-
back of the shirt (which is usually where
the tag is) facing up.
-
First I make a mark 2 inches away from the
neckline, on both sides, on the top of this seam.
-
Then, I make a mark directly underneath each armhole seam.
-
Then I need to work out what width the bust
-
measurement needs to be.
So I took my bust measurement.
-
Then, I took 2 inches off this measurement.
And then I divided this by 2.
-
This gives me 17 inches.
So, I make two marks at the same height as
-
the armholes, just bringing them in so that
this is 17 inches across.
-
Now I’m going to join up these two marks
with a curve.
-
Now you can either use one of these French
curve rulers if you have one, or you can just
-
eyeball it. With the curve, you want to kind
of follow the shape of the curve of the armhole
-
on the t-shirt that’s already there, but
bringing the curve in at the top so that it
-
meets up with your other mark.
-
The next step is to decide how long you want
the shirt to be. I wanted my top to be around
-
17 and a half inches long. I took off an inch
to allow for the turtle neck, but then added
-
it back on for the hem allowance at the bottom
of the shirt. So, I made a mark 17 and a half
-
inches below the centre of the t-shirt’s
neckline.
-
The bottom of the crop top is going to sit
pretty much at your waistline. So, I took
-
my waist measurement and then again, I minus
2 inches, and then I divided this measurement
-
by 2.
-
So, for me, I got 14 inches. So I’m going
to make this bottom line 14 inches long, by
-
connecting up these 3 marks in a straight
line.
-
And then lastly I need to connect up these
two lines.
-
And this is what my basic top pattern is going
to look like.
-
Now I need to transfer this pattern onto some
paper.
-
I fold the shirt exactly in half and I put
a piece of paper inside, matching up the edges
-
of the paper with the fold.
-
Then, using some pins, I press through the
shirt, following the chalk lines, all the
-
way around.
This creates small holes on the paper below.
-
Then, all I need to do is simply connect these
small holes together just like a join-the-dot picture.
-
And I cut this out. See! They're the same
size! Woo hoo!
-
Okay, so this is the only pattern piece that
I'm going to need, and it’s going to be
-
used for both the front and the back of the
shirt.
-
Now that's done, on to fabrics. The fabric
that I’m making my shirt out of is a very
-
stretchy, 2-way stretch ribbed jersey, but
you can pretty much use any stretchy jersey fabric.
-
To copy my pattern onto the fabric, I fold
the fabric in half, and then I place the pattern
-
piece on top, with this edge on the fold.
-
Now because I don’t trust myself to cut
it out accurately while it’s just on top
-
like that, I pin it on, trace around it, then
remove the pattern piece, put pins in to hold
-
the two layers in place, and then I cut around
the traced lines.
-
And when I unfold it, I have this!
Now I simply need to do this once more, so
-
that I'll have 2 pieces.
-
Now that I have 2 identical pieces, I sandwich
them together,
-
and then I sew the two pieces together at
the sides and at the shoulders.
-
And it’s also a good idea to pin pin pin
when you’re working with stretchy fabric.
-
To sew the front and back pieces together,
I am using a zig zag stitch. Some extra tips
-
to make your life easier is to also use a
thread that’s very similar to the colour
-
of your fabric, and to use a ball-point jersey
needle, instead of a regular sewing machine needle.
-
Once these two pieces are sewn together, I
turn the top inside out so that the seams
-
are on the inside.
-
And it’s a good idea to try it on at this
stage, to make sure that it fits alright,
-
and that you can get your head through the
neckhole, etc.
-
Now I’m going to make the "cuff" for the
neck. I measure the circumference of the neck
-
hole, which is 10 inches.
I then take HALF an inch off that measurement,
-
and so I cut out a strip which is only 9 and
a half inches long.
-
It’s also 3 inches wide, but if you want
more of a turtle neck, you can increase this,
-
or if you LESS of a turtle neck then decrease
this and make the strip thinner.
-
Anyway, after cutting this rectangle out I
fold it in half like this, and then I sew
-
down here, with a half inch seam allowance.
-
Then, I turn the piece inside-out so that
the seam is on the inside, and then fold it
-
in half length-ways like this, to give myself
this kind of cuff… thing.
-
Then, I place 4 pins equally around the neck
hole. So, one pin on each shoulder seam, and
-
one in the centre front and one in the centre
back. I do the same thing on the neck cuff,
-
with 4 evenly-spaced pins.
I’m going to match these pins up when I
-
sew the two pieces together.
-
To sew the cuff on, I’m first removing this
doobly-doo from my machine so that the cuff
-
will fit over the top.
-
Then, I slide the neck cuff on, with the raw
edges facing this way, and the neckline of
-
the shirt goes underneath it. So, the cuff
is going to be sewn onto the right side of
-
the shirt.
-
Once I match up the raw edges, I sew the neck
cuff onto the shirt! I do this by using a
-
zig-zag stitch, and at the same time stretching
the fabric underneath so each set of pins
-
basically match up.
-
When I get to the next set of pins, I remove
them, and then I do the same thing – I stitch
-
along the edge, stretching the fabrics so
that the next set of pins line up.
-
And I do this all around the neckhole until
I reach the point where I started from.
-
And – that's the neckline done!
-
For the armholes, I’m basically going to
do the exact same thing, however the strips
-
are going to be a little bit thinner.
I measure the armhole circumference (which
-
for me, is 15 inches), then this time I subtract
1 whole inch from this measurement. So,
-
I cut out a strip that’s 14 inches long and
1.5 inches wide.
-
Then I do the exact same thing that I did
for the neck. I fold this strip in half, sew
-
here, turn it around, fold it in half lengthways
to get a cuff, quarter it with pins, quarter
-
the armhole evenly with pins, and I sew them
together, raw edges matching, with the cuff
-
on the right side of the shirt. And again,
I stretch the fabric while I sew so that each
-
set of pins matches up with each other.
-
Now the last thing that I need to do is to
hem the bottom of the shirt.
-
So, I turn the shirt inside out, and then
I fold the bottom up about inch, and then
-
sew across it.
Now I recently got myself this special sewing
-
foot called a “walking foot”. This thing
makes sewing with stretchy fabrics A DREAM.
-
Basically, it helps feed all the fabric through
evenly to stop the hem from ruffling when
-
you sew it. If you don’t own a walking foot,
however, I recommend sewing the hem using
-
a piece of paper underneath, just like I did
in this video here.
-
Here’s a close up of the walking foot in
action.
-
And – look at my nice, flat hem!
-
So, I finished the top - but then I tried
it on a decided that the armholes were slightly
-
too tight. So I actually wanted to try and
make the top again, but modify the pattern
-
slightly to make the armholes larger.
So, back to my pattern - all I simply did
-
was to make my armhole a little bit larger
by extending this curve.
-
And, I tried again, this time using the same
fabric but in black. And I’m not going to
-
film the whole thing again because all the
steps I used are exactly the same as before!
-
SO – that’s it!
-
[MUSIC: electronic dance music]
-
So, yeah, that's it. That was actually surprisingly
easy to do. The second top that I made - so,
-
this one - actually only took me about an
hour to make, and that was because I wasn't
-
filming, I was sewing at my normal sewing
speed. So, yeah, you can pretty much whip
-
up a bunch of these in all different colours
in no time. And while it's a really nice basic
-
shirt to own that'll go with a lot of things,
you can also do some more interesting things
-
with it, with say T-shirt transfers, or fabric
paints, or embroidery, or using different
-
fabrics for the cuffs and the collar, to make
some really interesting tops!
-
And - I'll see you all for my next video.
Bye!
-
[music plays]