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DIY High Neck Crop Top | Get Thready With Me #10

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    Hey. Welcome to another episode of get thready
    with me. Today, I’m going to show you all
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    how to make a high-neck sleeveless crop top.
    This style of shirt is a really nice, basic,
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    yet flattering piece to own, and they go with
    pretty much – anything.
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    So let’s go!
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    Okay, so the first thing I need to do is to
    make the pattern, and to do this I pick out
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    a t-shirt that fits me well, is fairly tight-fitting
    and is made out of stretchy fabric. You can
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    pretty much use any tight-fitting t-shirt
    – but the most important thing is that the
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    t-shirt needs to have a high back of the neck.
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    So to make the pattern, I first turn this
    t-shirt inside out. It needs to lie with the
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    back of the shirt (which is usually where
    the tag is) facing up.
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    First I make a mark 2 inches away from the
    neckline, on both sides, on the top of this seam.
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    Then, I make a mark directly underneath each armhole seam.
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    Then I need to work out what width the bust
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    measurement needs to be.
    So I took my bust measurement.
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    Then, I took 2 inches off this measurement.
    And then I divided this by 2.
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    This gives me 17 inches.
    So, I make two marks at the same height as
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    the armholes, just bringing them in so that
    this is 17 inches across.
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    Now I’m going to join up these two marks
    with a curve.
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    Now you can either use one of these French
    curve rulers if you have one, or you can just
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    eyeball it. With the curve, you want to kind
    of follow the shape of the curve of the armhole
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    on the t-shirt that’s already there, but
    bringing the curve in at the top so that it
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    meets up with your other mark.
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    The next step is to decide how long you want
    the shirt to be. I wanted my top to be around
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    17 and a half inches long. I took off an inch
    to allow for the turtle neck, but then added
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    it back on for the hem allowance at the bottom
    of the shirt. So, I made a mark 17 and a half
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    inches below the centre of the t-shirt’s
    neckline.
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    The bottom of the crop top is going to sit
    pretty much at your waistline. So, I took
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    my waist measurement and then again, I minus
    2 inches, and then I divided this measurement
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    by 2.
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    So, for me, I got 14 inches. So I’m going
    to make this bottom line 14 inches long, by
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    connecting up these 3 marks in a straight
    line.
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    And then lastly I need to connect up these
    two lines.
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    And this is what my basic top pattern is going
    to look like.
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    Now I need to transfer this pattern onto some
    paper.
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    I fold the shirt exactly in half and I put
    a piece of paper inside, matching up the edges
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    of the paper with the fold.
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    Then, using some pins, I press through the
    shirt, following the chalk lines, all the
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    way around.
    This creates small holes on the paper below.
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    Then, all I need to do is simply connect these
    small holes together just like a join-the-dot picture.
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    And I cut this out. See! They're the same
    size! Woo hoo!
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    Okay, so this is the only pattern piece that
    I'm going to need, and it’s going to be
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    used for both the front and the back of the
    shirt.
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    Now that's done, on to fabrics. The fabric
    that I’m making my shirt out of is a very
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    stretchy, 2-way stretch ribbed jersey, but
    you can pretty much use any stretchy jersey fabric.
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    To copy my pattern onto the fabric, I fold
    the fabric in half, and then I place the pattern
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    piece on top, with this edge on the fold.
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    Now because I don’t trust myself to cut
    it out accurately while it’s just on top
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    like that, I pin it on, trace around it, then
    remove the pattern piece, put pins in to hold
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    the two layers in place, and then I cut around
    the traced lines.
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    And when I unfold it, I have this!
    Now I simply need to do this once more, so
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    that I'll have 2 pieces.
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    Now that I have 2 identical pieces, I sandwich
    them together,
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    and then I sew the two pieces together at
    the sides and at the shoulders.
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    And it’s also a good idea to pin pin pin
    when you’re working with stretchy fabric.
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    To sew the front and back pieces together,
    I am using a zig zag stitch. Some extra tips
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    to make your life easier is to also use a
    thread that’s very similar to the colour
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    of your fabric, and to use a ball-point jersey
    needle, instead of a regular sewing machine needle.
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    Once these two pieces are sewn together, I
    turn the top inside out so that the seams
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    are on the inside.
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    And it’s a good idea to try it on at this
    stage, to make sure that it fits alright,
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    and that you can get your head through the
    neckhole, etc.
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    Now I’m going to make the "cuff" for the
    neck. I measure the circumference of the neck
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    hole, which is 10 inches.
    I then take HALF an inch off that measurement,
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    and so I cut out a strip which is only 9 and
    a half inches long.
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    It’s also 3 inches wide, but if you want
    more of a turtle neck, you can increase this,
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    or if you LESS of a turtle neck then decrease
    this and make the strip thinner.
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    Anyway, after cutting this rectangle out I
    fold it in half like this, and then I sew
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    down here, with a half inch seam allowance.
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    Then, I turn the piece inside-out so that
    the seam is on the inside, and then fold it
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    in half length-ways like this, to give myself
    this kind of cuff… thing.
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    Then, I place 4 pins equally around the neck
    hole. So, one pin on each shoulder seam, and
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    one in the centre front and one in the centre
    back. I do the same thing on the neck cuff,
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    with 4 evenly-spaced pins.
    I’m going to match these pins up when I
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    sew the two pieces together.
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    To sew the cuff on, I’m first removing this
    doobly-doo from my machine so that the cuff
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    will fit over the top.
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    Then, I slide the neck cuff on, with the raw
    edges facing this way, and the neckline of
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    the shirt goes underneath it. So, the cuff
    is going to be sewn onto the right side of
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    the shirt.
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    Once I match up the raw edges, I sew the neck
    cuff onto the shirt! I do this by using a
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    zig-zag stitch, and at the same time stretching
    the fabric underneath so each set of pins
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    basically match up.
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    When I get to the next set of pins, I remove
    them, and then I do the same thing – I stitch
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    along the edge, stretching the fabrics so
    that the next set of pins line up.
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    And I do this all around the neckhole until
    I reach the point where I started from.
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    And – that's the neckline done!
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    For the armholes, I’m basically going to
    do the exact same thing, however the strips
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    are going to be a little bit thinner.
    I measure the armhole circumference (which
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    for me, is 15 inches), then this time I subtract
    1 whole inch from this measurement. So,
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    I cut out a strip that’s 14 inches long and
    1.5 inches wide.
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    Then I do the exact same thing that I did
    for the neck. I fold this strip in half, sew
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    here, turn it around, fold it in half lengthways
    to get a cuff, quarter it with pins, quarter
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    the armhole evenly with pins, and I sew them
    together, raw edges matching, with the cuff
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    on the right side of the shirt. And again,
    I stretch the fabric while I sew so that each
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    set of pins matches up with each other.
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    Now the last thing that I need to do is to
    hem the bottom of the shirt.
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    So, I turn the shirt inside out, and then
    I fold the bottom up about inch, and then
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    sew across it.
    Now I recently got myself this special sewing
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    foot called a “walking foot”. This thing
    makes sewing with stretchy fabrics A DREAM.
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    Basically, it helps feed all the fabric through
    evenly to stop the hem from ruffling when
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    you sew it. If you don’t own a walking foot,
    however, I recommend sewing the hem using
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    a piece of paper underneath, just like I did
    in this video here.
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    Here’s a close up of the walking foot in
    action.
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    And – look at my nice, flat hem!
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    So, I finished the top - but then I tried
    it on a decided that the armholes were slightly
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    too tight. So I actually wanted to try and
    make the top again, but modify the pattern
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    slightly to make the armholes larger.
    So, back to my pattern - all I simply did
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    was to make my armhole a little bit larger
    by extending this curve.
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    And, I tried again, this time using the same
    fabric but in black. And I’m not going to
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    film the whole thing again because all the
    steps I used are exactly the same as before!
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    SO – that’s it!
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    [MUSIC: electronic dance music]
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    So, yeah, that's it. That was actually surprisingly
    easy to do. The second top that I made - so,
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    this one - actually only took me about an
    hour to make, and that was because I wasn't
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    filming, I was sewing at my normal sewing
    speed. So, yeah, you can pretty much whip
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    up a bunch of these in all different colours
    in no time. And while it's a really nice basic
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    shirt to own that'll go with a lot of things,
    you can also do some more interesting things
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    with it, with say T-shirt transfers, or fabric
    paints, or embroidery, or using different
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    fabrics for the cuffs and the collar, to make
    some really interesting tops!
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    And - I'll see you all for my next video.
    Bye!
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    [music plays]
Title:
DIY High Neck Crop Top | Get Thready With Me #10
Description:

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Duration:
09:40

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