-
- So when you think of rum,
you'll always think
-
of pirates or beach.
-
Rum has always had
that connotation or that reputation.
-
We want to push
the needle further.
-
You know how people
enjoy single malt?
-
It has that sipping culture—
that's what we hope
-
to build for rum.
-
With Luisita Rum,
we want to show the consumer
-
that it can be enjoyed
as a sipper as well,
-
not just in cocktails
but as a sipper.
-
- Hi! I'm John Go.
I work with an importing
-
and distribution company
called Grand Cru.
-
So our purpose is
to make more niche
-
and boutique brands
available locally.
-
I think Filipinos drink
so much rum
-
because it's
a very accessible spirit.
-
Like, we're a tropical country.
-
It's easy for sugarcane to grow
in a tropical country.
-
We have Tanduay
which is, I think,
-
one of the biggest
rum producers in the world.
-
So the different brands
of rum you can find here
-
in the Philippines
are Clairin, Flor de Caña,
-
Doorly's, Tanduay,
and of course, Luisita Rum.
-
For me, what makes a good rum
is it has to have texture
-
and flavor.
-
- In Tarlac City, Philippines,
the first and only
-
single estate rum
in the country has been crafted
-
from soil to bottles since 2016.
-
Inspired by a deep fascination
with wine,
-
father and son duo,
Nando and Paco,
-
have been meticulously creating
Luisita Rum with the vision
-
of producing a premium,
farm-centric wine of the tropics.
-
- They know what it's all about.
-
- I believe so. Yeah.
We have explained.
-
Cheers, pop.
-
Wow. That high ester stuff
is really good.
-
- Oh, wow. It's really good.
-
- Yeah. I haven't tried
this one in a while
-
but it's delicious.
-
Of course, the bird.
-
- This is the bird
I was telling them.
-
- Philippine hawk-eagle.
-
- Yeah. 2136.
-
What's important with the brand
is that we really stick
-
to the core value, right?
-
So we're trying to make
a spirit that you can really
-
be proud of,
something that's done
-
in the classic,
traditional way of making
-
a world-class spirit,
-
and there are certain things
you cannot compromise on
-
and you have to stick to that.
-
- The three most popular ways
to make rum
-
is the Spanish style,
the English style,
-
and the French style.
-
The most familiar style
we have here is Spanish style.
-
Luisita is different
from other rums made
-
in the Philippines because,
one, they're single estate,
-
so all of the molasses they use
all come from the sugarcane
-
in their land which gives them
more quality control
-
with the raw material
and also gives a higher chance
-
to expressing terroir.
-
So it's essentially grass to glass.
-
- Luisita actually was founded
in 1881—the estate.
-
It was founded, at that time,
the Philippines, our country,
-
was a colony of Spain.
-
So it was put up
by a company called Tabacalera.
-
So Tabacalera was involved
at that time,
-
they were the biggest
tobacco traders in the world.
-
So the original plan
of that company
-
was to plant tobacco here
in Luisita,
-
but they found that the climate
was not suitable
-
for tobacco farming.
-
So around... some time
in the early, well,
-
the third of the century,
early 1900s,
-
they shifted to, okay,
let's start planting sugarcane.
-
So in 1927, our family,
we had no stake here in Luisita.
-
My paternal great grandfather,
actually he and his siblings,
-
they had a sugar mill
further up north
-
called Paniqui Sugar Mill.
-
So it closed down already
some time in the 90s,
-
and they actually had a rum
at that time.
-
And this rum was being sold
and really prevalent
-
in the market after the war.
-
Looking at the history
as I started, like,
-
asking stories from relatives
and looking at history books,
-
I slowly realized
that rum making
-
is actually, not in our blood,
but we've been doing it
-
for a long time
without us even knowing.
-
So here we have
what we call a sandy loam.
-
Actually, they called it
Luisita soil,
-
they gave it its own designation.
-
And this kind of soil,
it's easily workable,
-
high in organic matter.
-
When you have good soil,
everything else follows.
-
So the philosophy
is always just focus
-
on the ground.
-
So with sugarcane farming,
and any farming really,
-
you have to be very observant,
take care of the soil,
-
and that is actually 99%
of the battle.
-
- Our farming improves every year.
-
We don’t just plant sugarcane;
we also take care of the soil.
-
Crop rotation is necessary,
or adding organic matter
-
to restore fertility
because the soil
-
has become acidic.
-
If your soil isn’t good,
your production
-
won’t be good either
since the sugarcane won’t grow well.
-
- Once you take care of the soil,
the process
-
is setup seed beds,
-
so these would be nurseries
where we grow specific varieties
-
that we pinpoint
to specific soil type.
-
Sugarcane is actually
not grown from seed
-
but we propagate it
from the stalk itself.
-
There are eye buds
in the sugarcane plant,
-
so sugarcane
is actually a grass,
-
you plant it, and then it grows
from these eye buds.
-
Come harvest time,
we cut it by hand
-
in the first plant,
and then we also use
-
mechanical harvesters now.
-
- What they do is load everything
onto the truck first,
-
then later, they reverse it
to pick up the scattered ones
-
and load them as well.
-
For example, they can load up
to 10, 15, or even 19 tons.
-
But right now,
they haven’t reached 19 tons yet.
-
They’ll harvest more.
-
Once loading is done,
they transport it
-
to the central mill.
-
After that, they go
to the ticket booth,
-
and it’s ready for milling.
-
- The first time I met Boss Paco
was when we planted
-
at the nipa hut.
-
You were hauling, feeding,
and even removing big stones
-
from the hut.
-
You were there too, right?
-
- Yeah, I was cutting as well.
-
- Me too. That’s why I know
this job very well.
-
- I saw you cutting
at Hacienda Bantug, sir,
-
with Boss Juan.
They climbed up there.
-
- 47 trucks.
-
- Yeah, that’s it.
-
- 2015.
-
- He also experienced
what they’re doing now.
-
He hauled, climbed the ladder—
everything.
-
- Actually, I wanted
to be a lawyer.
-
So growing up,
even in grade school,
-
my father was a lawyer,
so I thought, okay,
-
I want to be a lawyer.
-
And I tried it out,
spent three months
-
in his law firm
in his little cubicle...
-
And I'll be honest,
I didn't have fun.
-
So I talked to him
and I said, "Okay.
-
I don't think this is for me."
-
He sent me here.
-
"Okay. Try it out in Tarlac."
-
I thought I was going
to be a farm manager right away,
-
you know?
-
Like, okay. Top position,
here we go.
-
And apparently, my first job
was to cut sugarcane.
-
I don't know if it was planned,
that maybe he wanted me
-
to have the hardest job
so that I'd go back and say,
-
"Okay. I'll be a lawyer."
-
Maybe it backfired.
-
Probably did.
-
I fell in love with it
and I still really remember that.
-
So I look back on that now.
-
At that time,
it didn't make sense to me.
-
It's a difficult job.
-
But now that I look back on it,
it gives me confidence
-
in myself that, okay,
I really love this,
-
'cause I wouldn't have done that,
I wouldn't have...
-
and I'd do it again.
-
And it reminds me
that I'm passionate about it.
-
When I cut that cane
in 2014, 2015,
-
I didn't go home,
I never left this place.
-
So I've been here
for 10 years now.
-
Almost 11, actually.
-
So here in Luisita
in Central Luzon,
-
we actually have
the biggest fleet
-
of mechanical harvesters
and we're really pushing
-
to mechanize the industry,
-
at least for sugarcane
which is what we're involved in.
-
The reason being so that
the labor now can transfer
-
to jobs that cannot be mechanized.
-
So it's really bringing them
to where the human touch
-
is required.
-
Once that cane is harvested,
it's now sent here to the mill
-
and it's dumped.
-
So we have a special technology,
we lift the truck up
-
and the special technology
is called gravity.
-
The cane falls down
from the truck.
-
- This is what we call
mill processing—
-
how we position our trucks
before dumping them into the mill.
-
There are two areas
to prevent delays in processing.
-
As soon as one truck finishes,
the next one follows,
-
keeping the dumping process
continuous.
-
The sugarcane gets leveled—
unlike before,
-
when dumping was uneven.
-
But once it passes
through the equalizer,
-
it gets properly aligned.
-
Then, it goes through the mill,
where the crushed sugarcane
-
is squeezed, extracting its juice.
-
These trucks come
from different places—
-
Victoria, Nueva Ecija,
Pangasinan, and Gerona.
-
Various locations supply us.
-
- So once that cane is dumped,
it goes through a series of,
-
they call it a Unigrator.
-
To keep it simple,
it's a lot of cane knives crushing it.
-
Inside the mill,
you can just imagine
-
it's a sugarcane juicer
but in a large scale.
-
The cane is really now squeezed,
-
we extract as much juice
as we can,
-
and that juice now gets sent
to the boiling house.
-
It's heated up,
we evaporate as much water
-
as we can, really to concentrate
the sugar content
-
in the sugarcane juice.
-
But inside the mill,
that cane juice now goes
-
to the boiling house
and whatever's left over,
-
'cause 78%
of that sugarcane stalk
-
is actually fiber,
-
and that fiber
is now really crushed
-
and we send that now
to the boiler.
-
And in the boiler, it's burnt
and that generates steam,
-
that steam is now sent
to our turbine generators
-
to generate power.
-
So everything you need
for sugarcane factories
-
and the sugar industry
is almost, there I say,
-
carbon neutral
because the energy required
-
to process the sugarcane
and the sugar is also in the plant.
-
So that part is...
-
I'm always amazed by that.
-
We call it bagasse—that fiber.
-
It's now burnt,
and then, of course,
-
people now think,
"Oh, you're throwing pollutants
-
into the atmosphere."
-
So what we did, again,
going back to taking care
-
of the soil is we put a,
they call it a scrubber,
-
so it's just water jets
that shoot into the chute,
-
the chimney, and now
all the particulates fall
-
to the ground
and it's called mill ash
-
which is very high in potassium
and other trace elements—
-
molybdenum,
all of that good stuff.
-
That mill ash now
we apply it back into the field.
-
So again,
it's a closed loop system.
-
So that's what happens
with the fiber.
-
The juice, which is now
in the boiling house,
-
once it hits the clarity
that's needed,
-
the bricks that's required,
we send that now
-
to the evaporators
where more water is evaporated.
-
- This is the pan floor station.
-
This is the evaporation station,
where we remove the water.
-
We concentrate the juice
from 30 brix to 65 brix.
-
After boiling at the top
and 24 hours of curing time,
-
this becomes C sugar.
-
The continuous centrifugal basket
separates it.
-
This is our C sugar,
and the remaining molasses
-
is the final molasses—
-
extracted here
in the boiling house.
-
This final molasses is then sent
to the distillery
-
for fermentation
to produce alcohol.
-
- So molasses,
locally we call it "pulot."
-
It's all the sugars
that can no longer be crystallized.
-
- Here, we grow the sugar crystals
from stage three
-
to pan numbers four and five.
-
We monitor their size
and color until they reach
-
the pan five.
-
If we test them
and no crystals stick
-
to the glass,
it means they’re clean.
-
- Okay. So the final step
or the second check that we have
-
for the molasses quality
would be in the quality
-
of our raw sugar
or our brown sugar.
-
So by flavor, by taste,
I can tell if it's too sweet,
-
my molasses quality
is not that good.
-
If there's a little bit
of bitterness,
-
a little bit of molasses flavor,
sugarcane flavor,
-
then it's great for distillation.
-
So right now, this sugar,
when you taste it,
-
based on the taste alone...
-
No, not yet.
It's not just like alcohol
-
but it's not overly sweet,
so you don't want it
-
to be too sweet.
-
That means that there's still
enough sugar in the molasses
-
that when we ferment it,
we're going to be able
-
to hit the desired flavor profile
for our rum distillate.
-
So the sugar is now sent
to the warehouse for repacking
-
and you know,
to supply the sugar in the market.
-
But the important part here
when we got into making
-
the rum distillate
is the aroma that you smell
-
when you taste the unaged rum
before it hits the barrel.
-
This is what we look for,
this smell, this aroma,
-
this brown sugar,
almost like a crème brûlée
-
kind of essence.
-
And then, that's what tell us,
okay, this distillate
-
is good for rum.
-
Yeah. This reaches
the supermarket,
-
and then some of it
we send to become white sugar,
-
depending on the market.
-
But this is our contribution
to Philippine agriculture.
-
We focused on fermentation
because in fermentation,
-
that is where alcohol
and flavors are made.
-
- This is where we propagate yeast.
-
From just 12 liters of lab yeast,
we expand it
-
to a large-scale volume
of around 22,000 liters.
-
Inside the small cultivator,
there is wort.
-
Wort is a combination
of molasses,
-
which is a byproduct of sugar.
-
This is where the molasses
is processed.
-
Wort consists of molasses,
water, chlorine,
-
and other nutrients for yeast.
-
It is aerated
to encourage further growth.
-
- So after this fermentation,
we got to distillation.
-
So the yeast, the little animals
which are friends,
-
they consume the residual sugars
in the molasses
-
and turn that
into what we know as alcohol,
-
but in our case,
rum distillate.
-
So rum distillate is rum
that has not seen
-
the inside of a barrel.
-
It doesn't have an age yet,
-
but there's already flavor there.
-
Once fermentation is done,
we send it to this 98-year-old.
-
It was put up in 1926-1927.
-
Distillery.
-
So it's a twin column
distillation process
-
designed specifically for rum,
or for spirits.
-
The inside of that is all copper.
-
We have about 70 copper plates
and bubble caps.
-
I don't want to get too technical.
-
But basically,
to make good rum distillate,
-
you want the inside
of your column still to be copper.
-
Here you'll see,
we call it column no. 3.
-
So it's our oldest column.
-
So whatever was in fermentation
gets fed first
-
into the beer still.
-
And then from the beer still,
it goes to the rectifying column.
-
So the rectifying column
is where we get...
-
we now collect our unaged rum—
-
so the rum distillate.
-
In simple terms,
the way I like to view it,
-
I'm playing hide-and-seek
to find the flavor.
-
So if you will notice,
there are a lot of tapping points.
-
So we put a tapping point
in each part
-
of the rectifying column.
-
So as we go on,
every hour we're tasting,
-
and we find
where the good alcohol is.
-
So it's hide-and-seek.
-
So sometimes
we might get it here,
-
sometimes we might get it here,
-
most times we get it here.
-
So again,
it's a sensory experience.
-
You smell it.
-
And to make the decision,
-
it's just like food,
if it tastes good, collect,
-
if you don't like how it tastes,
divert it.
-
After distillation,
it's coming off the still
-
at 95% or even 93% alcohol,
that's not...
-
you can drink it
but actually, no,
-
you cannot drink it,
do not drink it.
-
So that's already rum distillate.
-
That's already considered rum.
-
What you do now,
what we do is we get that
-
and we now send that
to our blending facility
-
where we slowly drop the proof
or the alcohol percent
-
to about 62-65% ABV
or alcohol by volume.
-
And once that's done,
once you hit the target ABV,
-
that's what we now put
into the barrel.
-
At least as far as aging
is concerned in the bodega,
-
we find here in Luisita
that it should,
-
given the climate,
it takes about two years
-
to reach the profile
that we are looking for.
-
Now, our oldest batch
is eight years already actually.
-
So once it's in that barrel,
the rum distillate
-
is interacting with the wood,
all of that lignin layers
-
and you really just let time
do its thing,
-
you let nature do its thing,
and all of these
-
chemical compounds,
alcohol, esters, congeners,
-
they now form inside the barrel
and the taste develops
-
even further.
-
- Yes, aging is a big factor
in rum production.
-
In the Philippines,
because of our warm climate,
-
our aging process
is faster compared
-
to colder countries
where aging takes 10 to 15 years.
-
- One good thing that came out
of the pandemic
-
is all the barrels
that you see here,
-
we tasted it and we scored it.
-
We scored it on a rating
of one to five.
-
So this is called the barrel thief,
-
but this is the real barrel thief.
-
(chuckles)
-
So this is our way
of testing the barrel
-
and rum that is inside.
-
So we make it a point
to taste at least...
-
maximum 30 barrels
in one day,
-
and then we score it
one to five based on flavor,
-
aroma, and then style.
-
So style would be how close it is
to the flavor
-
or the profile of Luisita Rum
that we are looking for.
-
- How old is that?
-
- So this one would be...
-
This is about five years. Yeah.
-
So you guys asked a while ago
what is my favorite way
-
of drinking Luisita Rum,
it's like this,
-
straight from the barrel, neat.
-
So this is 65%.
-
- So Bar By is
an architectural firm by day,
-
and then a cocktail bar
at night.
-
So after working,
you can drink.
-
I started as a guest at this bar.
-
Then, after sharing a few drinks,
it all started—
-
“Okay, let’s work together.”
That’s how it happened.
-
I think a lot of things happen
when people drink
-
and share stories,
and maybe that’s
-
what happened here.
-
- Our menu offers a fun twist
on classic signatures,
-
and we also create bespoke cocktails.
-
Here at Bar By,
we use calamansi liqueur
-
and dalandan.
-
Our latest addition
is Intramuros chocolate liqueur,
-
along with Luisita Rum
and other local rums.
-
- We use a lot of local spirits
and liquors.
-
One of them is Luisita Rum.
-
In fact, two of our bartenders
visited the farm,
-
saw the entire process,
and now they truly understand
-
their drinks.
-
- We highlight local ingredients,
produce, local liquors,
-
and liqueurs—
products that can compete
-
with international brands.
-
Right now, I’ll be making
the River Valley—
-
a clarified cocktail
using milk punch.
-
Most rums originate
from tropical countries
-
like Barbados, the Caribbean,
and Trinidad & Tobago.
-
Sugar is a basic necessity
in the Philippines,
-
so we can say that we have
the raw materials to make rum.
-
- With Luisita Rum,
we always want to keep
-
that sense of place.
-
So we're not going
to release a product
-
that we feel is...
will not be worthy
-
of the name Luisita Rum.
-
It has to be something
we're proud of.
-
People always ask me that,
and it's sort of a crossroad,
-
"Are you going to go mass market?"
-
"Are you going
to go full production?"
-
"You want to be
in every shelf of the world?"
-
Of course, a part of you
will say yes,
-
but if I do that
and I lose the quality,
-
that's not the dream
for Luisita Rum
-
because like I said,
we want to show the world
-
that we're capable
of producing a really world-class
-
premium spirit
that just tastes really good
-
and it hits that quality
that we're looking for.
-
- I'm still kicking.
Senior citizen.
-
I'm super senior.
-
I was born and raised here,
and I’m still
-
in the sugarcane business.
-
I continue working here,
and I’m proud that I was able
-
to send my children
to school because of this.
-
I hope it lasts.
-
We teach the younger ones
so that when we’re gone,
-
they can continue the work.
That’s my dream.
-
- I was able to put my children
through school.
-
I supported all of them
through this hacienda.
-
As long as you’re happy
with your job,
-
that’s what matters.
-
Even at 62, I’m still working here.
-
- I see the fruits of my labor
in the market,
-
enjoyed by people
who are truly happy with their drink.
-
- We started this project
with the Cojuangcos
-
when it was still small.
-
Now, it’s growing, expanding,
and I’m very proud
-
of what we’ve achieved.
-
My dream for Luisita Rum is
for it to grow even further,
-
for all our projects to succeed,
-
and for it to be
renowned worldwide—
-
not just in the Philippines.
-
- So the potential
for Filipino rum worldwide
-
is good because in other parts
of the world,
-
rum is becoming more popular.
-
Historically, most of the rum
come from the Caribbean,
-
but with the rising trend of rum,
other parts of the world,
-
mostly Asia,
they're making more rum.
-
I think Luisita is a good indicator
that the Philippines
-
can have more craft
rum brands in the future.
-
- It’s delighting to hear people say,
“Wow, we’re not just
-
planting sugarcane anymore—
we’re planting rum.”
-
It's nice to hear
because now you're value adding,
-
of course, and it uplifts
the community, it helps them.
-
Make the most of it
and the dream is that
-
the brand really outlives me.
-
The driving factor really there
would be to create
-
something that, you know,
100 years from now,
-
200 years from now,
it's still there,
-
Luisita Rum is still there.
-
And what I've learned now
is that, you know,
-
the smile is enough.
-
My dad would smile.
-
It's already their way of saying
that it's a product worthy
-
of their name,
it's a product worthy
-
of carrying on the name
of Luisita.