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Hey everyone, Sinix here.
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It's time for another episode of
Anatomy Quick Tips,
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the series that is here to give you
some useful observations
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and help you feel more comfortable with
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drawing people from imagination.
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Today, we'll be talking about arms -
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and also, don't be alarmed but
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this all-arm video puts
us near the end of this series,
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only two more videos remain.
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Regardless, for now let's just focus
on these upper appendages.
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This probably won't be the funniest
video in this series or anything,
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but it will be definitely be the
most humerus -
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so roll up your sleeves
and let's get to work.
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Starting out with structure,
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we've already covered both
shoulders and hands
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in other videos,
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so we just need to make sure we
can bridge these things together.
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I'm sketching a quick front, side and
back view of a shoulder to start.
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Seeing a shoulder
and torso without the arm
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always reminds me of a little
lamb or something...
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but anyway, we're going to focus on
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the skeletal breakdown of the arm first.
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Of course we have a single major bone
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in the upper arm
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and two in the lower arm
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connected at the elbow.
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But as i draw that, the first thing
I actually want to point out
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is that things aren't
in a perfect straight line.
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You can even take a moment
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and try to see this yourself -
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just hold one arm out straight
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and close your opposite eye.
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Now do your best to
look directly straight down
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the barrel of that massive gun you call
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your upper arm.
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If you line up your
sight from shoulder to elbow,
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you'll notice the lower arm doesn't really
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line up as much as you might've thought.
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To get really good at
drawing any organic forms,
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it's important to try and identify
these types of subtle offsets
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as much as possible.
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Anyway, let's get back to these bones.
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The humerus is of course the bone
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of the upper arm,
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meanwhile the lower arm has the ulna,
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which I would consider
the primary lower arm bone.
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It's the one you would
be hitting someone with
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if you elbowed them.
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And then the radius, which originates
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on the exterior side of the elbow
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A.K.A the side that's further
away from your body -
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and always connects to
the thumb-side of your hand.
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So we can do a bit
of a rotational twisting
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around the lower arm.
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Hence the name 'radius'.
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The last skeletal thing I want to mention
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is the funny bone.
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This is just an extension of the humerus
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which protrudes on the
inner side of the elbow
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closest to the body.
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It's called the funny bone
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because of an exposed
nerve ending next to it
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that will send a shock up your arm
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if you hit this part of the
elbow against something.
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So if you ever see a chance to whack
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your friend's funny bone
with your pencil or stylus
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it's, you know, free comedy.
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Alright, I added some
hands to these drawings,
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and I know this isn't the hands video
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but since wrists and organic
offsets are so important,
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let's do a quick look at
that connection anyway.
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Now keep in mind by the time
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the radius and ulna get to the wrist
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they'll always be side by side,
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and therefore the lower arm connects in
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a much flatter and wider way into the palm
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and back of hand,
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and thinner from the
side view of the hand.
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Basic stuff, but the fun part is
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any time you're adding a hand to an arm,
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make sure to give it a bit of an offset
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and step over toward the
thumb/radius side of things.
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Similarly, from the side view
the hand should always
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take a noticeable offsetting
step toward the palm side.
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By the way when I say the word 'offset'
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it usually just means not lined
up evenly with surrounding things.
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Anyway, always make sure
the thumb side of the hand
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feels more chunkier and substantial
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than the pinky side of the palm.
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With all of these ideas in mind,
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you should be able to
develop a quick shorthand
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for getting from the arm into the hand.
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In fact, you should be able to
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quickly deduce everything about the bones
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and orientation of the
wrist without ever seeing
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the thumbs or fingers or
any interior information.
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So maybe see how quickly you can determine
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where the radius and the ulna are
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in any of these rough sketches I'm making.
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Hopefully that seems easy enough.
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Let's get back to structure and
talk about the muscle side of things.
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We're going to make it really easy
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for our drawing purposes
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and only focus on three muscle groups.
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The biceps are on
the front of your upper arm
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and allow you to curl up your arm.
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They insert under your shoulder
muscles and chest muscles on one end
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and connect to the radius and
tissue around the ulna on the other end.
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The triceps are on the back of your arm
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and allow you to pull your arm straight.
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They also come out from under your
shoulder muscles and similar back muscles
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and connect to the end of the ulna.
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And yes, the deltoids are
of course the shoulder muscles,
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but the third muscle that we're
going to be fixating on in this video
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is going to be the brachioradialis.
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You must learn to
love the brachioradialis,
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it will be a pivotal part of
this video in more ways than one.
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These insertions points are
important, so keep them in mind.
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It connects from
the lower back of the humerus
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under the triceps and
it wraps around a bit
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over parts of the lower biceps and
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connects to the radius on the other side.
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I will be exaggerating this
muscle heavily throughout this video,
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so be aware of that strategic inflation.
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We are going all in on the bray-ray.
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I think that's enough structure though, so
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let's get into some drawing practice.
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A big theme in the land of arms will be
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controlling our organic curves.
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So I guess I will do a quick recap
on s-curves and c-curves.
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Don't let the names
throw you off too much,
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most of the s-curves and
c-curves you'll be drawing
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are going to be extremely subtle.
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Just a whisper of curvature
going on most of the time.
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And it's good to practice
that level of control
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but an even more
important thing to practise
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is your ability to weight your curves.
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Weighting your curves means changing up
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the harshness of the
curvature through the line.
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So if the curve stays
consistent from start to finish,
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that would be a weightless curve.
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You can have the curve be
increasingly strong at the start
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or the end of the line
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to give it weight in a specific direction.
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This is very, very important to practise
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because we spend our entire childhoods writing
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letters and shapes which
curve in a very balanced way,
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but the more you can break away from that
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the more organic your drawings will be,
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so warm up with these often.
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Alright, let's get into those
simplifications and reductions.
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Or, rather maybe mention
another little side thing...?
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Sorry, there's a lot of ways to think about arms.
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Such as the chain,
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a common trick for approaching arms
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is to imagine a giant linking chain -
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the idea being that since the upper arm is
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wider from the side view than from a front view,
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and meanwhile the forearm is the opposite,
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it will generally create a nice little
back and forth between wide and narrow
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which is definitely good for aesthetic purposes.
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So you can use that as a little
mental note when applicable.
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Meanwhile, to go back to
what we've just talked about
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with curve weight, the most
important mental note I fixate on
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is usually just where to weight the
curve for each part of the arm.
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On the bicep side of the upper arm,
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the curve weight is further toward the elbow.
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Whereas on the back or tricep side of things,
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the curve weight is closer to the shoulder.
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The brachioradialis is definitely
weighted toward the upper forearm,
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but is more rounded and gradual than
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the opposite side of the forearm.
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All of these things relate to
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the actual muscle bodies of each muscle group,
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the tricep being the most important one
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to always remember, because
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the muscle bodies are located
in the top half of the upper arm.
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Okay so let's sum up the
straight arm simplifications
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a bit more directly.
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Back view of the arm, pop
forward, minimal twisting.
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The upper arm might as well
just be a simple cylinder
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with minimal tapering.
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But the lower arm is going to feel
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closer to an upside down bowling pin.
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The important part is that
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the exterior side, with the brachioradialis
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is going to not only curve outward
more than the interior side,
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but also come up a bit higher than it.
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It should definitely feel like
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it starts its s-curve above the elbow.
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If we raise the arm up out to the side,
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yes you'll get a bit of the chain concept,
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but since you'll probably
not be drawing massive bodybuilders
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it can become pretty minor.
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You do want to make sure that
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you're thinking about weight and gravity though.
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Obviously this gets a lot more extreme with age,
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but on any body type
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you should still be using these ideas
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to give you at least a little
bit of subtle curve weight.
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Another useful reference point to think about
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comes from the shoulder muscle.
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The deltoid comes down to a bit
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of a point on the exterior of the arm.
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While not exact, this can still be used
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as a good way to indicate a break
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between the front bicep side of the arm,
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and the rare tricep side.
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Especially when you're dealing
with more complex poses
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and off angle views.
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If I draw a quick arm over here on the left
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from a slightly awkward angle,
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adding a deltoid and letting it point a line
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towards the elbow can at least
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help us visualise the tricep and bicep sides of the arm.
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If this drawing looks weirdly off to you at first,
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that's good!
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The brachioradialis was not
coming from the correct spot.
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Let's first recall that the
brachioradialis should come from
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under the triceps and over the biceps,
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and using that line from the deltoid
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we can visualise this insertion
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much more clearly.
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Moving along,
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some of these straight armed elbows
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might be looking a bit wonky.
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So let's briefly mention them.
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The most important part
of simple 'find the elbow'
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will definitely come from seeing
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the triceps and humerus
all come together in a mass
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that leads straight down through the elbow
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and into the ulna.
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The funny bone and radius both become a bit
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indented on a straight arm,
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so you'll mostly see these
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little pockets of depth off to
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both sides of the triceps and ulna, with
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the forearm muscles pulling the forms back out
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and really solidifying those crevices.
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There's definitely a lot of skin going on
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in this area, so it tends to become quite
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wrinkly. There's even a slang name for this
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folded up skin - it's called the wenis.
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So, everybody should draw the wenis,
the wenis is not a dance,
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and I'm happy to tell you this in advance.
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[laughs] Anyway, wrinkles are tricky. The
general rule is to fold the skin with
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c-curves and s-curves in a way that squishes
the curves together
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without ever feeling like they're going to
cross each other
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or pass through the extended implied
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lines of other curves.
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You can compress a bunch of them into
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a small space, or just a couple, but I
recommend wrinkling things up
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a bit above the elbow with perhaps some
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more drapery style folds hanging underneath.
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You can definitely develop your own stylistic
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approach to wrinkles, and they should feel
similar in theory to clothing folds,
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but more organic with the lines.
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Just keep in mind, like with clothing folds,
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doing less is usually better when learning.
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Alright, a little bit more drawing in this
section, because I want to
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also just quickly mention some size
relations.
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I'm a serial offender of making my deltoids
too small in drawings,
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so I'm trying to correct that. I think it
can be useful to think of the upper
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arms as a length that goes from the top
of the shoulder to the elbow.
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The top third of that length can be the
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distance of the deltoid going down the arm.
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I barely mentioned it before, but the triceps
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really have two main visible muscle
bodies on the back of the arm.
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While they both have those high up muscle
bodies,
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the interior side one is a bit longer down
toward the elbow,
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while the exterior one is even more
focussed at the top.
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The bottom of these muscle bodies and
strong separation of them
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occurs roughly halfway down the upper
arm unit, that we mentioned going
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from top of shoulder to elbow.
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You can kind of indicate this with a little
butt shape on the back of the arm,
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especially if it's being flexed. The arm,
not the butt.
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Okay, moving along to the world of
movement,
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the elbow is basically just a fancy hinge
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joint with the funny bone on the interior,
the ulna being the king in the center,
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and the radius on the exterior. When the arm
is straight, they somewhat
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line up with the ulna sticking out a bit.
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From the interior view though, once
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we start curling the arm, obviously the
funny bone isn't going anywhere.
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But the ulna is going to hinge around it
and form a very boxy and angular
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silhouette, by letting your brain fixate
on the line from funny bone to ulna.
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All of the tissue of the arm is going to
crease at the insertion of the bicep
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and form a bit of a line that points mostly
toward the funny bone side of things.
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The important take away is that interior
arm equals boxy shape and long crease.
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Also, when you raise your arm with your
bicep toward the sky,
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that means the deltoid is going to be
pulled to the back of the shoulder.
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As it, once again, needs to be pointing
towards the exterior line between
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bicep and tricep.
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Anyway, the exterior elbow view is a bit
interesting.
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You'll of course be seeing the deltoid a lot more in this view
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where the exterior is facing back,
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but the interesting part is that you're now seeing
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both the radius and ulna in the straightened arm view.
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This means that when you curl your arm, those two lower
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arm bones are going to be traveling together.
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Even though the silhouette will fundamentally be the same,
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I find it very useful to acknowledge this anatomy by making the elbow
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feel like it just rounds up to and around these bones,
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instead of feeling boxy.
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You might also remember that the brachioradialis is on the exterior side,
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so that will create a mass in form that will squeeze from upper arm
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to lower arm.
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Because of this mass, the exterior crease here becomes a lot more
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chubbier and compressed.
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I like to use a shorter and splitting crease to hint at this
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thicker form.
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And you should try to hint at these things in any body type.
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From a different view, you can get some idea how all of these bones
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and muscles are working, but for now let's jump over to the
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forearm movements, because we have rotation to deal with.
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If you stick your right harm out in front of you,
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palm side up, this is the least twisted view of your forearem.
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The muscles and bones just carry forth to the hand in a linear fashion.
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This represents one extreme of your rotational movement.
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As we rotate the hand, the elbow won't be changing much,
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but the radius and brachioradialis will start twisting a bit
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to line up vertically at the wrist.
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The best thing you should observe on your own arm
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is how the s-curves are just as you rotate your hand.
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I'm not in love with the drawing on the right here,
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but the interior ulna side of things definitely changes up its
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s-curve the most, whereas the exterior side
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just shifts weight a little.
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Once your palm is facing downwards, the full range of motion is complete.
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This is as far as things can twist.
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The radius and ulna are now on opposite sides from the elbow.
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You might be thinking, 'what if I want to give a thumbs down?'
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Well, physically you can't. So be sure to remember that and like this video.
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If you do really want to point your thumb down,
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it requires you to actually rotate your entire arm so that your
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elbow is facing a different direction.
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Lastly, here I'll just mention, when your arms are at rest at your sides,
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the default comfortable state is that central, half-twisted state,
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not the completely untwisted state.
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Alright, let's go back to reducing information and recap what we've learned.
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Of course, it's pretty fun to draw giant musclebound arms,
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especially when you're trying to commit all these concepts to memory,
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but we also want to be able to simplify these things down
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into little anime stick arms.
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When you start out in art, it's fine to just think of the upper and lower arms
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as just cylinders, and as you get more comfortable,
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you can introduce some tapering into these forms.
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Eventually you will want to be capable of some level
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of form complexity. These cross sections are never just round.
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They have weird oblong shapes and blobby looking contours.
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I like to practice these things with what I would call
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skinny muscle forms.
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Maybe it's just my Samurai Champloo roots coming through again.
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A quick example though, starting with a deltoid and shoulder,
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letting it point toward an elbow, think I'll twist the bicep to the bottom on this one,
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bicep means curve weight closer to elbows, so we can even dive in
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with some angular shapes.
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With the bicep facing forward, that means the deltoid
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can be a bit further on top instead of on the back,
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and we can even hint at some tricep form above the separating line.
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That line will let us know where to pull the brachioradialis from,
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and then we can decide on the hand rotation and
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make everything line up.
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Design wise, it's good to play around with the ratios of rounded
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shapes and angular shapes.
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We alluded earlier to the exterior side feeling more rounded
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and the interior feeling more angular, when
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discussing the elbow hinge,
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so let's just run with that a bit more.
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What if we just always simplified things around the elbow
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by playing up rounded exteriors and angular interiors in the forearm?
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I just noticed that that letter pointing towards the tricep is a D instead of a T.
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Clearly getting a bit delirious at this point.
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Regardless, let's keep sketching.
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Here's a quick side view, still mostly practicing
curve weights and that brachioradialis.
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Some slightly more exciting things we could try
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would be playing around with perspective and dynamic angles.
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If we imagine a Spiderman type arm pose, we could still
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think about where we could exaggerate our forearm muscles.
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I'll be honest though, I sort of got distracted right after starting
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this one, because I thought of some more stuff to mention.
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Such as, what does it look like if you
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just have your elbow sticking up in the air
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with your arm curled behind it?
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A lot of tricep weight at the bottom,
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but it really things out into a very skeletal look
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at the elbow. It does give a nice look at the
radius, ulna and funny bone.
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This becomes instantly obscured by the forearm
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once you straighten the arm out a bit
with those forearm muscles
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just taking over both sides of the elbow.
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But, this made me think of another scenario,
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how about when you're resting your weight
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on your elbow at a desk or table?
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Where do those forearm muscles go then?
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Well, since the brachioradialis connects
to the humerus,
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it actually sits up higher, away from the elbow
on the exterior side of things.
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I guess that's obvious enough, kind of like
how it would look if you were
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drinking something.
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Just always be keeping track of where
the thumb is,
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and where the exterior and interior
of the elbow are,
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and you'll be fine.
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Now, we always have a common mistakes
part in these videos.
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But, I think I've gone over things so much
that we can try a pop quiz instead.
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I'll show a quick drawing with some
weird mistake, and we'll see if
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you can deduce the problem.
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Like this. What's wrong with this?
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Well, you have two possible answers on
this one, since we can't see the shoulder.
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We seem to be looking at the front of an
arm, so either the brachioradialis
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is on the wrong side, or the hand
should be mirrored.
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How about this one? Anything seem off
to you?
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Well, I'm messing with you a bit, because
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it's the same thing, except this time you
can see the deltoid,
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so there's only one answer.
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The brachioradialis is on the wrong side
again. It should be on the exterior,
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not interior.
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Alright, I promise this one will be different.
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What's wrong this time?
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Doesn't seem too far off, the deltoid
and forearm stuff seem okayish,
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this might be a subtle one, but I
reversed the weight on the
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bicep and tricep curves.
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Remember the tricep should have mass
closer to the shoulder, and the bicep
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curves closer to the elbow.
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That's a bit better.
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One last one.
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What's wrong now?
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Hmm, the brachioradialis is on the
exterior, so that's fine.
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But it still looks a little strange.
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Well, that's because it needs to go over
the bicep, not under it.
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And with that, I think we're done learning.
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You have graduated to the part of the
video where we just take everything
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we learned and try to draw and paint
arms from imagination.
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Hopefully they wind up looking alright.
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I will be using a simple flat brush for these
lines, with pressure sensitivity
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mostly on size, but with a bit on opacity.
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That should make it feel pretty comfy and natural.
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One big concern I had going into this final section,
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is trying to make sure it stays focused on arms.
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Shoulders are a bit unavoidable, but I tried experimenting
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with ways to make the hands get less attention.
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Literal disjointed fingers and whatnot.
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Unfortunately, that actually made them
stand out more,
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in rules of focus and contrast and whatnot,
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so eventually I'll get rid of that idea.
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What actually wound up being the biggest issue
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is just trying to come up with a good
variety of poses.
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Once again, I considered crazy foreshortening,
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but then the page might feel less cohesive with the more traditional
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perspectives.
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I don't know. But I'm definitely enjoying
the line art quality.
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There are a couple of disjointed lines
here and there,
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but I tried to hit a good number of
the c-curves and s-curves
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in single strokes.
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That can result in a lot of putting something
down and then undoing it,
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redoing it, until I figure out what
I want it to look like,
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but I'm mostly okay with that method.
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I can't be too chaotic with styles, but
I did try to at least vary up
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the muscularity levels a bit as it goes on.
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My brain was pretty drained from all the
previous arm drawings,
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so there are definitely a couple of
moments where I've made up an arm
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and then moments later realised it was
almost identical to one that was
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already on the page, like this last one.
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But I just decided to adjust the angle of
it a bit and move on.
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For colors, I don't know how much I can
really say that would be new,
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the skin video as well as the other
videos have really covered the general
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stuff. But you can see I've lightened the
line art into a lighter reddish tone,
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and then threw in my normal dull
minty background.
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I like to mask out everything in order
to watch transparency, which can
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be a bit tedious, but usually worth
it in the long run.
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A big piece of advice is to make sure
you don't instinctually start
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pressing hard with your stylus when blocking.
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This is always the most dangerous time for
your hand and wrist health,
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because we tend to dig in harder when
filling things in.
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Pressure is bad for your tendons.
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Anyway, once everything is blocked in,
we can try out a variety
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of skin tones across the page.
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This is also a great time to introduce some
hue variety by air brushing
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in reds on areas that might catch more
sun damage, and things like that.
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The next step is form rendering, and I
know some people like a more
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smooth gradiation and some people like a
more chunkier chaotic painting approach.
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But, I'm going to try out some weirder ideas,
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and just try defining forms with blocky,
contour tracing strokes.
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Honestly it's a bit weird at times for these
videos, because I don't find myself
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with a strong preference.
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In my mind, as long as you have some
understanding of the forms
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you can always either step up how
abstract and chunky things are,
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or step it back into hypersoft air brushing.
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In any case, the important part is
just knowing where the hard edges
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and soft edges should be.
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Now, how do you know which edges are hard
and which are soft?
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Well, it's simple. If you would be okay with
seeing an actual line at a specific
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spot in your drawing, then that can be
a hard edge in your painting.
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If you think a line would look bad in your
drawing, then stick to soft edges there.
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I already made pretty much all of the lines
I wanted to make in the drawing stage,
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so those will be the only hard edges.
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Anyway, I started out pretty experimental,
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with some of the painting stuff early on,
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but I wasn't that into it this time, so I'm
slowly going to be dialling that back
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as we go. Almost all of these arms
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are going to be out of direct light, you know,
ambient light for the most part,
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aside from the one on the right that is
reaching toward us.
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Doing this somewhat makes the whole image
a bit darker and more saturated than
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I wanted, so I'll be desaturating and
lightening it a bit as we go.
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Other than that, I definitely kept the line
art in play for a lot longer than I normally do.
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It's not until most of the form rendering
is complete that I actually
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flatten things down and start painting
out the lines.
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This is also when I start playing with
slightly more interesting shapes
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in some of them.
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The rim light is going to be pretty
subtle today,
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I definitely made it more limelight than
I normally recommend to people,
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but still trying to at least taper
those lines and find some
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chunkier shapes with it.
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To bring back some of the other fun stuff
from the skin rendering video,
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I decided to put in some body hair on
the top left arm.
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Just a bit of fun with desaturating colors
and pattern-based brushwork.
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This was also when I decided to at
least connect the fingers that I had there,
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but we're almost done, so the last
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thing I want to have fun with, is bringing
some of that body hair into the rim light.
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It makes the rim light a lot more fun.
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Definitely recommend trying it when you can.
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And, with that, this monster of a video is finally complete.
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It has been a journey, and while the drawings and paintings might not be perfect,
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hopefully you at least feel a bit more confident
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about being able to draw some fun arms from imagination.
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As always, the best way to fully learn is to mix in
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equal parts of drawing from human reference,
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doing master copies of other artists you like,
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and drawing from imagination.
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No matter how good or bad you might feel about
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one of these three parts, do them all evenly regardless.
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We only focussed on three main muscles in this video,
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so if you find yourself wanting to build up more complexity,
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just go check out one of the other amazing art YouTube
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channels that dives a bit deeper.
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Alright, I want to thank you all so much
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or at least giving this video a chance,
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I'm not a frequent uploader, so be sure to subecribe
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if you don't want to miss out on the
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handful of videos I put out each year.
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Of course, if you want some fun, specialised content
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the brainstorm classes have been going really well
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and its definitely worth your time and money
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if you haven't tried them out yet.
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Info is down in the description.
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I also, of course, do want to give an earnest thank you
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to the Patreon supporters that chip in
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money to keep these videos coming.
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You guys are wondeful.
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Seeya everyone.
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[Electronic buzz effect]