The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo
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0:07 - 0:09Whether or not you realize it,
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0:09 - 0:16as a surfer you’re a master
of complicated physics. -
0:16 - 0:17The science of surfing begins
-
0:17 - 0:21as soon as you and your board
first hit the water. -
0:21 - 0:26The board’s size and light construction
help it displace a lot of water. -
0:26 - 0:28In turn, a buoyant force
-
0:28 - 0:31equal to the weight of the
displaced water pushes up, -
0:31 - 0:34counteracting you and your board’s weight.
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0:34 - 0:38This lets you stay afloat while
you wait to paddle for a wave. -
0:38 - 0:40And what exactly are you waiting for?
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0:40 - 0:42The perfect wave, of course.
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0:42 - 0:49Like other waves in physics, ocean waves
represent a transfer of energy. -
0:49 - 0:54Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates
water particles near the surface, -
0:54 - 0:58leading to the growth of ripples
that become waves. -
0:58 - 1:03These deviations from the flat surface
are acted upon by gravity, -
1:03 - 1:08which tries to restore the surface
to its original flat state. -
1:08 - 1:11As the waves then move through the water,
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1:11 - 1:16particles push and pull on their neighbors
through the wave induced pressure, -
1:16 - 1:22and this motion propagates energy through
the water in unison with the wave motion. -
1:22 - 1:24The motion of these particles
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1:24 - 1:27is much more limited than the
overall motion of the waves. -
1:27 - 1:29Near the shore,
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1:29 - 1:32the shallower seafloor constrains
the motion of the waves -
1:32 - 1:36to occur in a more limited region
than out at sea, -
1:36 - 1:39concentrating the wave energy
near the surface. -
1:39 - 1:42If the topography of the shoreline
is even and smooth, -
1:42 - 1:45this will refract the waves
to become more -
1:45 - 1:48parallel to the shore as they approach.
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1:48 - 1:50This is the crucial moment.
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1:50 - 1:52As the wave gets near,
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1:52 - 1:56you quickly pivot your board
in the same direction as the wave -
1:56 - 1:58and paddle to match its speed.
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1:58 - 2:01Your board forms an angle with the water,
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2:01 - 2:05and this creates a dynamic pressure
on the bottom of it, -
2:05 - 2:08forcing you and your board
out of the water, -
2:08 - 2:10to skim along the surface.
-
2:10 - 2:11At the same time,
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2:11 - 2:15your increased forward momentum
makes you more stable, -
2:15 - 2:19allowing you to stand up
and surf along the wave. -
2:19 - 2:21Now you’ve caught the wave,
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2:21 - 2:25and are riding along its front
face parallel to the shoreline. -
2:25 - 2:29Fins on the surfboard allow you to alter
your speed and direction -
2:29 - 2:31by repositioning your weight.
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2:31 - 2:33Above you is the wave’s crest,
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2:33 - 2:37where the water particles are undergoing
their greatest acceleration. -
2:37 - 2:41That forces them to move faster
than the underlying wave, -
2:41 - 2:45so they shoot ahead before falling under
gravity’s influence. -
2:45 - 2:49This forms the waves’ characteristic
curls, or jets, -
2:49 - 2:51as they break along the shore.
-
2:51 - 2:55Sometimes, the curl might completely
enclose part of the wave, -
2:55 - 2:59forming a moving tube of water
known as the barrel. -
2:59 - 3:03Because of irregularities in the seafloor
and the swell itself, -
3:03 - 3:10few barrels last as long as the legendary
27-second ride off the coast of Namibia. -
3:10 - 3:12But many who manage to get barreled
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3:12 - 3:16have said they feel time
passing differently inside, -
3:16 - 3:20making it one of the most magical
experiences a surfer can have. -
3:20 - 3:21Of course,
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3:21 - 3:24not all beaches are created equal.
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3:24 - 3:27Offshore underwater canyons or rock
formations -
3:27 - 3:32in certain locations like Nazare, Portugal
or Mavericks, California -
3:32 - 3:36refract the incoming wave energy
into a single spot, -
3:36 - 3:40creating massive waves
sought by surfers worldwide. -
3:40 - 3:44And some of these waves travel
for more than a week, -
3:44 - 3:49with swells originating more than 10,000
kilometers away from shore. -
3:49 - 3:51Waves surfed in sunny California
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3:51 - 3:55may have originated in the stormy
seas near New Zealand. -
3:55 - 3:59So while you may not be thinking about
weather patterns in the South Pacific, -
3:59 - 4:03tectonic geology, or fluid mechanics,
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4:03 - 4:08the art of catching the perfect wave
relies on all these things and more. -
4:08 - 4:11And the waves we surf, created by wind,
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4:11 - 4:16are just one visible part of the
continuous oscillation of energy -
4:16 - 4:20that has shaped our universe
since its very beginning.
- Title:
- The physics of surfing - Nick Pizzo
- Speaker:
- Nick Pizzo
- Description:
-
View full lesson: https://ed.ted.com/lessons/the-physics-of-surfing-nick-pizzo
Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. Nick Pizzo dives into the gnarly physics that make surfing possible.
Lesson by Nick Pizzo, directed by Wonderlust.
- Video Language:
- English
- Team:
- closed TED
- Project:
- TED-Ed
- Duration:
- 04:20
lauren mcalpine approved English subtitles for The physics of surfing | ||
lauren mcalpine accepted English subtitles for The physics of surfing | ||
lauren mcalpine edited English subtitles for The physics of surfing | ||
Tara Ahmadinejad edited English subtitles for The physics of surfing | ||
Tara Ahmadinejad edited English subtitles for The physics of surfing | ||
Tara Ahmadinejad edited English subtitles for The physics of surfing |