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Oh boy, oh boy. I received a picture
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from a follower of mine and she told me
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that she was using GriGri
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and managed to burn her left hand
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quite badly.
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So long story short this is what happened.
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She was giving slack
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and the climber fell at that moment.
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Did you notice something wrong?
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This is actually very common mistake
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I see people do with the GriGri.
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When we give slack like this.
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So as always instead of telling you
what to do or
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what not to do I put this to the test.
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OK, go!
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Fuck!
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Oh, shit!
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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Yep, yep, yep.
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My hand would been completely burned.
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All right, so as I demonstrated
many times already
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pressing on GriGri's cam
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and not holding the
brake side of the rope
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the GriGri will not lock.
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If you hold the brake side of the rope
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and press on GriGri's cam,
GriGri will lock.
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Having a loop here
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is exactly the same
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as not holding the rope
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while all of this loop goes in.
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And then the GriGri will lock.
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So why do people do this?
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And there are two reasons for that.
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First one is that belayers are afraid to
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short rope the climber
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in case there is a tangle in the rope.
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So we are afraid that
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something is there wrong
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and they will be giving slack
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and the GriGri will lock. Accidentally.
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So to avoid that problem
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obviously ideal is to stack the rope
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nicely before the climb,
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but things happen.
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So instead of doing this
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I recommend when the climber is
in less intense situation
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and you have more freedom
at your belaying
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you should prepare
the rope in front of you.
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So this is what you do.
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You take some of the rope,
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you untangle it if it's needed
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and you put in front of you.
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Notice that I will never lose the control
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of the brake side of the rope.
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And then I will have
no trouble giving slack
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Now reason number two why people do this
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is in situations where we just took slack
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and now we need
to give slack quickly back.
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So we do this.
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Which is again bad idea.
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Instead of that
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you should simply give slack like this,
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now press on GriGri's cam,
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grab here and give more slack if needed.
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So that's it. Enjoy climbing. Stay safe.
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Consider supporting me.
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And see you in the next video. Ciao!