## Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6

• 0:03 - 0:05
Belaying devices.
• 0:05 - 0:07
There are so many different
belaying devices
• 0:07 - 0:11
nowadays on the market and in my hands.
• 0:11 - 0:13
And after this video you will be able
• 0:13 - 0:15
to pick any of them.
• 0:15 - 0:17
Not from my hands.
• 0:17 - 0:20
And you will know how it works
and how to use it.
• 0:20 - 0:24
So first of all, a belaying device
is simply a mechanism
• 0:24 - 0:25
which allows to control
• 0:25 - 0:27
the friction between your hand
• 0:27 - 0:28
and the climber.
• 0:28 - 0:30
Alright.
• 0:30 - 0:33
So here I hang and here I have almost
• 0:33 - 0:38
60 kilograms of force pulling
on this strand of the rope.
• 0:38 - 0:41
However for me to hold that
• 0:41 - 0:46
I'm only using about 6 to 7
kilograms of force
• 0:46 - 0:47
on the brake side of the rope.
• 0:47 - 0:50
However if I would start raising
• 0:50 - 0:54
my brake hand up
• 0:54 - 0:57
the force needed to hold that
• 0:57 - 1:01
goes to 9 kilograms of force...
• 1:01 - 1:03
10...
• 1:03 - 1:05
12...
• 1:07 - 1:10
15...
• 1:17 - 1:21
So my max was around 25 kilograms of force
• 1:21 - 1:24
with two hands in this position.
• 1:24 - 1:27
That means that in this position
at this angle
• 1:27 - 1:30
I can not even hold my own weight
with two hands.
• 1:30 - 1:33
There is no even talking about one hand.
• 1:33 - 1:35
So now let's see how much
assistance I will get
• 1:35 - 1:39
if my rope strands are completely
parallel to each other.
• 1:39 - 1:42
So I will start pulling up
• 1:42 - 1:46
as hard as i can.
• 1:56 - 1:58
And so the answer is almost nothing.
• 1:58 - 2:00
Now to explain how that works
• 2:00 - 2:03
since there is so many
different belaying devices
• 2:03 - 2:06
I'm gonna group all of them
into different categories.
• 2:06 - 2:08
First one is tubular style devices.
• 2:08 - 2:12
That many mistakenly call them reverso.
• 2:12 - 2:14
Which is only this device -
Petzl Reverso.
• 2:14 - 2:18
Or ATC which is this Black Diamond ATC.
• 2:18 - 2:21
While Mammut calls this
Alpine Belaying Device. Simple.
• 2:21 - 2:25
So with tubes the more
I move my brake hand down
• 2:25 - 2:30
the more it squeezes the rope between
the carabiner and belaying device.
• 2:30 - 2:34
And also tubes have
a little groove in front of them.
• 2:34 - 2:37
Which even further pinches on the rope.
• 2:37 - 2:41
Plus as I pull down on the rope
it tilts the device
• 2:41 - 2:44
which creates extra angles
and extra friction.
• 2:44 - 2:46
So as we saw in my previous experiment
• 2:46 - 2:51
if my hand is at the
level of the belaying device or higher
• 2:51 - 2:53
the device creates very little friction.
• 2:53 - 2:55
So if the climber would fall
• 2:55 - 2:59
while my hand is
in this position or higher
• 2:59 - 3:01
there is a high chance
that my hand would simply
• 3:01 - 3:04
get sucked into the belaying device.
• 3:05 - 3:09
I got my hand pinched...
• 3:19 - 3:21
And then maybe i will hurt my hand
• 3:21 - 3:24
And let go off the rope.
• 3:24 - 3:26
So if you want to see how my hand is
• 3:26 - 3:28
getting sucked into belaying device
• 3:28 - 3:30
• 3:30 - 3:33
Also worth mentioning is that
rope thickness or diameter
• 3:33 - 3:35
has a huge effect on how easily
• 3:35 - 3:38
the rope will go through belaying device.
• 3:38 - 3:40
And every belaying device has a
• 3:40 - 3:42
recommended range of rope thicknesses
• 3:42 - 3:45
which you can find
somewhere in the manuals
• 3:45 - 3:47
or sometimes on the device itself.
• 3:47 - 3:49
And this brings us to advantages
• 3:49 - 3:51
of tubular style devices.
• 3:51 - 3:55
First of all they work better with
wider range of rope diameters.
• 3:55 - 3:58
All the way from super thick gym ropes
• 3:58 - 4:01
to ultra skinny twin ropes.
• 4:01 - 4:04
On contrast if you would take a GriGri
• 4:04 - 4:06
it says that it's optimized to work
• 4:06 - 4:10
from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters ropes.
• 4:10 - 4:12
But from my experience
• 4:12 - 4:14
anything from 10 millimeters and above
• 4:14 - 4:16
doesn't work that well anymore.
• 4:16 - 4:20
Yeah, there is this older GriGri
which works better with thicker ropes.
• 4:20 - 4:23
But that one doesn't work well
with thin ropes.
• 4:23 - 4:26
Next, tubes are super lightweight.
• 4:26 - 4:28
And they allow you to belay with two ropes
• 4:28 - 4:30
either double ropes or twin ropes.
• 4:30 - 4:32
And if you don't know
what's a double or twin rope
• 4:32 - 4:35
you should watch
my master class on the ropes.
• 4:35 - 4:38
Also with tubes you can make a soft catch
• 4:38 - 4:39
without moving yourself.
• 4:39 - 4:43
By allowing the rope
to slip through the device.
• 4:43 - 4:47
And in general tubes don't catch as hard
• 4:47 - 4:49
because there is always
a little bit of slippage
• 4:49 - 4:52
which reduces the peak forces.
• 4:52 - 4:54
Which might be very beneficial
• 4:54 - 4:57
Since it reduces the chance
• 4:57 - 4:59
that the pieces of the gear will fall out.
• 4:59 - 5:02
And finally tubes have
this loop at the top.
• 5:02 - 5:06
And that allows you
to set this device in a guide mode
• 5:06 - 5:09
in which you can even belay
two following climbers
• 5:09 - 5:13
coming up on top rope simultaneously
• 5:13 - 5:16
simon... simultaneously.
• 5:16 - 5:18
and all of that are the reasons
• 5:18 - 5:21
why tubes are still very commonly used
• 5:21 - 5:24
in traditional or alpine
or multi-pitch scenarios.
• 5:24 - 5:28
However none of that is really useful
• 5:28 - 5:30
if you're just doing
single pitch sport climbing.
• 5:30 - 5:32
And the biggest disadvantage of tubes
• 5:32 - 5:34
is of course that they don't lock
• 5:34 - 5:38
meaning if you would let go the rope.
• 5:38 - 5:39
Which by the way brings us
• 5:39 - 5:41
to the main rule of belaying.
• 5:41 - 5:44
If you are in need of number two
• 5:44 - 5:46
and you have a choice to poop your pants
• 5:46 - 5:50
or to let go the brake side of the rope -
• 5:50 - 5:52
you poop your pants!
• 5:52 - 5:56
Meaning in no circumstances
you're allowed to lose control
• 5:56 - 5:57
of the brake side of the rope.
• 5:57 - 6:00
And that's by the way also equally true
• 6:00 - 6:03
for assisted building devices
but we are gonna talk next.
• 6:03 - 6:07
So assisted devices
have an ability to lock
• 6:07 - 6:08
in case the climber falls.
• 6:08 - 6:11
Which obviously adds a lot of safety.
• 6:11 - 6:15
For example if you would
knock a rock while you're climbing
• 6:15 - 6:19
and that rock would
• 6:19 - 6:21
And that's why we wear a helmet!
• 6:21 - 6:24
So first of all your belayer would
really like to have a helmet.
• 6:24 - 6:27
But you as a climber
would really love that
• 6:27 - 6:30
there would be one of these
assisted devices down there.
• 6:30 - 6:34
And in fact my own skin
was once saved by this guy.
• 6:34 - 6:36
When I did a little fall
• 6:36 - 6:37
and my belayer did not notice
• 6:37 - 6:40
that there was a rock next to her leg.
• 6:40 - 6:42
And while she was flying forward,
• 6:42 - 6:45
her leg got stuck, and she spun around,
• 6:45 - 6:47
and hit her back to the wall.
• 6:47 - 6:49
And let both of the hands go.
• 6:49 - 6:54
So this guy is basically a reason why
I'm still here.
• 6:54 - 6:56
And making these videos.
• 6:56 - 6:59
Now super important that number two rule
• 6:59 - 7:01
is also applicable for these guys.
• 7:01 - 7:04
After all they are called assisted
• 7:04 - 7:07
so don't treat them as fully automatic.
• 7:07 - 7:11
Because there are cases
where they will not lock.
• 7:11 - 7:14
Apart from safety this locking is also
• 7:14 - 7:16
super useful in long belays
• 7:16 - 7:19
If your climber is hanging
on the rope a lot
• 7:19 - 7:21
and projecting some hard moves.
• 7:21 - 7:23
So if we compare this to the tube
• 7:23 - 7:27
even in the most mechanically
• 7:27 - 7:29
you will still need to hold on the rope.
• 7:29 - 7:33
And in very long belays
this will get tiring.
• 7:33 - 7:35
While with assisted devices
it's pretty chill.
• 7:35 - 7:38
You are literally just
sitting in your harness.
• 7:38 - 7:43
OK, so the first group of
assisted belaying devices
• 7:43 - 7:45
is called assisted tubers.
• 7:45 - 7:48
That's because they look like tubes
• 7:48 - 7:51
and they work similarly to regular tubes
• 7:51 - 7:53
where we squeeze the rope
• 7:53 - 7:56
between the carabiner and the device.
• 7:56 - 7:58
Except that they have a shape
• 7:58 - 8:00
that shifts the carabiner in position
• 8:00 - 8:03
where it squeezes on the rope so hard
• 8:03 - 8:05
that it completely locks it off.
• 8:05 - 8:09
A little disadvantage of assisted tubes
• 8:09 - 8:11
is that once in locked position
• 8:11 - 8:14
you cannot quickly
feed slack to the climber.
• 8:14 - 8:17
You need a special action
to unlock the device
• 8:17 - 8:20
before you can feed the rope
• 8:20 - 8:21
For example with Click Up
• 8:21 - 8:23
it even clicks
• 8:23 - 8:25
and now I cannot do anything.
• 8:25 - 8:28
I literally need to unclick it.
• 8:28 - 8:30
And now I can continue belaying.
• 8:30 - 8:31
Now one really important thing
• 8:31 - 8:34
that not many know about assisted tubers
• 8:34 - 8:36
That they suffer from the same problem
• 8:36 - 8:38
as regular tubes
• 8:38 - 8:42
meaning that
if your hand is in up position
• 8:42 - 8:44
the device will not lock.
• 8:44 - 8:46
As you can see it's not locking
• 8:46 - 8:49
And if the climber would take a fall
• 8:49 - 8:51
the rope would just slide from my hand
• 8:51 - 8:54
and burn it. Oh, it's already burning.
• 8:54 - 8:57
However unlike regular tubes
• 8:57 - 8:58
Where you can get your hands sucked
• 8:58 - 9:00
even at very big angles
• 9:00 - 9:02
most assisted tubers
• 9:02 - 9:04
will only fail at the angles
• 9:04 - 9:06
that are very extremely high up.
• 9:06 - 9:09
And some actually don't fail at all.
• 9:09 - 9:11
I'm actually gonna make a separate video
• 9:11 - 9:13
where I was experimenting
• 9:13 - 9:16
at which angles which devices lock.
• 9:16 - 9:18
So stay tuned for that.
• 9:18 - 9:20
I can't put everything
into one video because
• 9:20 - 9:23
I need you to subscribe.
• 9:23 - 9:26
But independently of which
belaying device you're using
• 9:26 - 9:30
just develop a habit of keeping
your brake hand down.
• 9:30 - 9:33
Also good to know for people
who climb with two ropes
• 9:33 - 9:35
is that there are assisted tubers
• 9:35 - 9:36
that work with two ropes.
• 9:36 - 9:38
In case you go on a multi-pitch
• 9:38 - 9:41
and you want extra safety
you have some options.
• 9:41 - 9:44
All right let's move on to
cam assisted devices.
• 9:44 - 9:46
I'm sure everybody knows GriGri.
• 9:46 - 9:48
But there are more devices like
• 9:48 - 9:51
Trango Vergo and Birdie and others.
• 9:51 - 9:52
And the way they work is
• 9:52 - 9:55
that they have a camming
mechanism inside
• 9:55 - 9:56
which pinches on the rope.
• 9:56 - 9:58
Now in the case of GriGri
• 9:58 - 10:02
the cam is spring-loaded
meaning that as soon as
• 10:02 - 10:05
there is no more load
on the climber's end of the rope
• 10:05 - 10:06
the cam will disengage.
• 10:06 - 10:09
And you can belay normally.
• 10:09 - 10:10
While in the case of Vergo
• 10:10 - 10:12
it doesn't have a spring.
• 10:12 - 10:14
And you need to position the device
• 10:14 - 10:16
in a certain way
• 10:16 - 10:18
to be able to feed the slack.
• 10:18 - 10:20
All right back to GriGri.
• 10:20 - 10:22
If you press on GriGri's cam
• 10:22 - 10:25
but you ignore the rule number two
• 10:25 - 10:28
and you don't hold
the break side of the rope
• 10:28 - 10:32
this can happen...
• 10:38 - 10:41
Also if you ignore rule number two
• 10:41 - 10:45
and your GriGri gets trapped
in the first piece of gear
• 10:45 - 10:48
this can happen
• 10:51 - 10:53
Many of you asked
• 10:53 - 10:56
if this problem of
trapping in the first bolt
• 10:56 - 10:58
where it disengages the cam
• 10:58 - 11:02
is also applicable for assisted tubers.
• 11:02 - 11:05
So with most assisted devices
• 11:05 - 11:07
the answer is unlikely.
• 11:07 - 11:10
Since there is no cam that i could press
• 11:10 - 11:13
to disengage this locking.
• 11:13 - 11:16
Only if i would press on this end
• 11:16 - 11:19
it kind of slips a bit but still
• 11:19 - 11:22
stays locked.
• 11:26 - 11:29
This Click Up
• 11:29 - 11:33
doesn't even lock
if i don't hold the rope.
• 11:33 - 11:38
Amazing. Number two rule. Hold the rope.
• 11:39 - 11:40
Yeah.
• 11:40 - 11:45
There's no way I can unlock this
• 11:45 - 11:47
in this manner.
• 11:48 - 11:51
So no assisted tubers
don't have this risk.
• 11:51 - 11:53
Now this is a little future me
• 11:53 - 11:56
after I was editing this part
that you just seen.
• 11:56 - 11:58
And I saw this I realized that
• 11:58 - 12:01
I was using a wrong carabiner.
• 12:01 - 12:05
Turns out Click Ups need
their own specific carabiners
• 12:05 - 12:08
And that's a reason why
you should read the manual.
• 12:08 - 12:12
So that's the carabiner
you should use for a Click Up.
• 12:12 - 12:15
Let's see if it locks.
• 12:16 - 12:19
No difference.
• 12:20 - 12:22
So number two rule.
• 12:22 - 12:24
And read the manual
• 12:24 - 12:26
because some of
the assisted delaying devices
• 12:26 - 12:29
require you a specific belaying carabiner.
• 12:29 - 12:31
I don't know if it's just marketing
• 12:31 - 12:33
or the shape of the carabiner
is slightly different.
• 12:33 - 12:36
Just use what the manufacturers recommend.
• 12:36 - 12:38
And finally there is this guy.
• 12:38 - 12:41
It's a Revo from Wild Country.
• 12:41 - 12:44
It's an inertia based mechanism.
• 12:44 - 12:47
Which will lock once the climber starts
• 12:47 - 12:49
falling faster than 4 meters per second.
• 12:49 - 12:52
So if i pull slowly it doesn't lock.
• 12:52 - 12:56
I need to pull really fast
in order for it to lock.
• 12:56 - 12:58
So my goal of this video
• 12:58 - 13:00
is not to compare all
of the delaying devices
• 13:00 - 13:03
on the market and
tell you which one to buy.
• 13:03 - 13:04
Sorry for that.
• 13:04 - 13:09
Every device have its own
pros and cons, haters and lovers.
• 13:09 - 13:10
Full internet of that.
• 13:10 - 13:13
However if you would want such comparison
• 13:13 - 13:15
let me know in the comments and maybe
• 13:15 - 13:17
I will make a separate video on that.
• 13:17 - 13:19
OK now I have a tip for you
• 13:19 - 13:21
that will make your life
a little bit easier
• 13:21 - 13:24
and maybe will even save your ass
• 13:24 - 13:25
on a multi-pitch one day.
• 13:25 - 13:26
Humans,
• 13:26 - 13:28
we have two hands normally
• 13:28 - 13:32
and handling more than
two objects in two hands
• 13:32 - 13:33
is not ideal.
• 13:33 - 13:36
What I often see that people
take their belaying device,
• 13:36 - 13:38
their carabiner, the rope...
• 13:38 - 13:40
That's already three objects by the way.
• 13:40 - 13:43
And they try to connect everything
• 13:43 - 13:45
in space
• 13:45 - 13:48
like so...
• 13:49 - 13:50
• 13:50 - 13:52
So doing this
• 13:52 - 13:54
will greatly increase the chance
• 13:54 - 13:56
that one day you will drop something you will be
• 13:56 - 13:57
trying to connect something and then
• 13:57 - 13:59
suddenly whoops
• 13:59 - 14:01
your billing device flies down if you're
• 14:01 - 14:03
not on a multi-pitch if you're standing
• 14:03 - 14:05
on the ground that's not a big deal
• 14:05 - 14:08
however if you drop your billing device
• 14:08 - 14:09
on a multi-pitch
• 14:09 - 14:11
you are in big trouble so this is what
• 14:11 - 14:14
you do to avoid that normally your blade
• 14:14 - 14:16
device will live with your carabiner
• 14:16 - 14:18
somewhere on the harness
• 14:18 - 14:20
so step one you take
• 14:20 - 14:23
both of them together as one unit so i'm
• 14:23 - 14:25
carrying only one unit and you
• 14:25 - 14:27
immediately connect it to the laying
• 14:27 - 14:29
loop
• 14:29 - 14:31
so you cannot drop anything right now
• 14:31 - 14:34
everything is safe step two you take a
• 14:34 - 14:36
bite of rope and you insert into your
• 14:36 - 14:38
blank device
• 14:38 - 14:40
keep in mind of the orientation of the
• 14:40 - 14:42
rope which end has to go to the climber
• 14:42 - 14:45
which end is your break hand if you're
• 14:45 - 14:48
not sure every blank device has an image
• 14:48 - 14:51
on the side of it which will remind you
• 14:51 - 14:52
that and next
• 14:52 - 14:55
open your carabiner and hook your rope
• 14:55 - 14:56
together
• 14:56 - 14:58
with the belaying device
• 14:58 - 15:01
so at no point there was a chance of for
• 15:01 - 15:03
me to drop anything and once you're done
• 15:03 - 15:06
playing you simply reverse the process
• 15:06 - 15:08
where you open the carabiner you unhook
• 15:08 - 15:10
the rope but you hook the belaying
• 15:10 - 15:12
device and then you simply can just pull
• 15:12 - 15:14
out the rope and your belaying device
• 15:14 - 15:16
stays on your harness with the carabiner
• 15:16 - 15:18
if you want to put it somewhere else you
• 15:18 - 15:20
put it somewhere else and the same works
• 15:20 - 15:23
with assisted tubers so step one connect
• 15:23 - 15:24
your
• 15:24 - 15:27
blank device to your harness take a bite
• 15:27 - 15:29
of rope put that bite of rope into the
• 15:29 - 15:32
laying device
• 15:32 - 15:34
open the carabiner and hook the rope and
• 15:34 - 15:36
playing device together
• 15:36 - 15:39
now in case of the grigri it's slightly
• 15:39 - 15:42
different so as always step one clip
• 15:42 - 15:44
your blank device to your belay loop so
• 15:44 - 15:46
you cannot drop anything now if you're
• 15:46 - 15:48
not on a multi-pitch and dropping your
• 15:48 - 15:50
grigri is not a big deal you simply take
• 15:50 - 15:53
off your grigri open it in this cool way
• 15:53 - 15:57
insert the rope and flip it back simple
• 15:57 - 16:00
now if you are on a multi-pitch
• 16:00 - 16:02
there is a technique so this is what you
• 16:02 - 16:06
do you open your carabiner
• 16:06 - 16:08
and hook only half of the degree
• 16:08 - 16:11
together then you can open the grigri
• 16:11 - 16:13
and it's connected to your carabiner you
• 16:13 - 16:16
cannot drop it you insert the rope you
• 16:16 - 16:17
close it
• 16:17 - 16:20
and then you open your carabiner again
• 16:20 - 16:22
and hook the grigri back
• 16:22 - 16:24
so this is as safe as you can do with
• 16:24 - 16:27
the grigri on a multi page and obviously
• 16:27 - 16:28
once you're done it's just simply
• 16:28 - 16:32
reversing the process of
• 16:32 - 16:34
doing
• 16:35 - 16:38
this and doing that
• 16:38 - 16:40
okay so i hope that by now i gave you
• 16:40 - 16:43
enough examples how not to use belaying
• 16:43 - 16:45
devices and now i'm gonna show you
• 16:45 - 16:48
proper techniques the good part is that
• 16:48 - 16:51
no matter what blank device you use good
• 16:51 - 16:53
belaying techniques don't change there
• 16:53 - 16:55
are slight differences that i'm gonna
• 16:55 - 16:57
mention but for majority it's the same
• 16:57 - 16:58
all right
• 16:58 - 17:01
so i hope that by now number two rule is
• 17:01 - 17:04
strongly embedded into you however if
• 17:04 - 17:06
for some reason you really need to go
• 17:06 - 17:10
hands-free you can tie a backup knot
• 17:10 - 17:12
at your brake and like so
• 17:12 - 17:15
and this is totally fine
• 17:15 - 17:17
in case something happens and the rope
• 17:17 - 17:18
would slip all the way
• 17:18 - 17:20
the grigri will lock
• 17:20 - 17:22
however in the case of tube it's
• 17:22 - 17:24
slightly different if you would just
• 17:24 - 17:25
simply
• 17:25 - 17:27
tie a knot here
• 17:27 - 17:29
and the climber would fall there is a
• 17:29 - 17:31
chance that this knot will get
• 17:31 - 17:34
jammed in your blank device so hard that
• 17:34 - 17:37
you will have trouble to
• 17:37 - 17:39
unjam it let's use a slightly different
• 17:39 - 17:41
carabiner so it's easier for you to see
• 17:41 - 17:43
what's happening so
• 17:43 - 17:45
in the case of tube you take a bite of
• 17:45 - 17:48
rope and then you take another bite of
• 17:48 - 17:51
rope and put through the first one
• 17:51 - 17:53
and you make it tight
• 17:53 - 17:54
and make sure that this loop is long
• 17:54 - 17:56
enough
• 17:56 - 17:57
like so
• 17:57 - 18:00
this will hold but this is not enough to
• 18:00 - 18:01
make it
• 18:01 - 18:04
extra safe you tie in
• 18:04 - 18:06
back up knot here so now i can go
• 18:06 - 18:09
hands-free and in case my climber takes
• 18:09 - 18:11
a fall this will hold him and if i want
• 18:11 - 18:13
to release all of that
• 18:13 - 18:16
hold the brake side of the rope
• 18:16 - 18:18
and tie the top
• 18:18 - 18:19
back up knot
• 18:19 - 18:23
and start pulling the rope
• 18:23 - 18:25
until you have a little loop left
• 18:25 - 18:27
at this point inform your climber that
• 18:27 - 18:28
he might
• 18:28 - 18:30
feel a little bump
• 18:30 - 18:31
and tug
• 18:31 - 18:32
fast
• 18:32 - 18:34
like so if you do this correctly your
• 18:34 - 18:37
climber will not go down at all now if
• 18:37 - 18:41
you're not familiar with slip slap slap
• 18:41 - 18:41
this
• 18:41 - 18:43
technique
• 18:43 - 18:45
good you can safely ignore my next
• 18:45 - 18:48
sentence however if you're using that
• 18:48 - 18:50
technique i would strongly advise you to
• 18:50 - 18:53
reconsider because in the case of the
• 18:53 - 18:55
fall your hand might get sucked into the
• 18:55 - 18:57
bellying device faster than you might
• 18:57 - 19:00
think so as a good rule of thumb keep
• 19:00 - 19:03
your break hand always down and do any
• 19:03 - 19:07
hand swapping or sliding there so now a
• 19:07 - 19:09
little disclaimer i'm gonna show you
• 19:09 - 19:11
three different techniques of taking
• 19:11 - 19:13
slack and depending on where you are on
• 19:13 - 19:16
the planet some of them might be not
• 19:16 - 19:19
considered as acceptable so stick with
• 19:19 - 19:22
me i'm gonna explain because i went
• 19:22 - 19:24
really deep in this rabbit hole so all
• 19:24 - 19:26
the techniques start the same your left
• 19:26 - 19:28
hand reaches up and pulls down on the
• 19:28 - 19:30
rope while at the same time your break
• 19:30 - 19:33
hand pushes forward and locks it down
• 19:33 - 19:35
and now at this point you need to bring
• 19:35 - 19:37
• 19:37 - 19:39
up the rope and there are three
• 19:39 - 19:42
different ways to do so the first one
• 19:42 - 19:43
it's more popular in europe and it's
• 19:43 - 19:47
called hand over hand or v to the knee
• 19:47 - 19:50
so you simply take your left hand and go
• 19:50 - 19:51
over
• 19:51 - 19:54
your right hand and then right hand goes
• 19:54 - 19:55
over your left hand that's why it's
• 19:55 - 19:59
called hand over hand so you take
• 19:59 - 20:02
hand over hand you take
• 20:02 - 20:05
hand over hand so i find myself using
• 20:05 - 20:07
this technique when the climber wants me
• 20:07 - 20:09
to take really hard as he's moving up
• 20:09 - 20:12
the rope because you're always pulling
• 20:12 - 20:15
down on the rope you can
• 20:15 - 20:18
it kind of feels like climbing up the
• 20:18 - 20:19
rope
• 20:19 - 20:22
very comfortable
• 20:23 - 20:24
so the problem with this technique is
• 20:24 - 20:27
that when people get really good and can
• 20:27 - 20:29
do it really fast
• 20:29 - 20:32
they start letting go the brig and
• 20:32 - 20:35
before the left hand goes into the
• 20:35 - 20:38
locking position so we do this we take
• 20:38 - 20:40
this let go already
• 20:40 - 20:43
and then go into locking position if the
• 20:43 - 20:46
climber would fall in the moment where
• 20:46 - 20:49
you let go this and you don't lock the
• 20:49 - 20:52
hand down you probably know what would
• 20:52 - 20:54
happen so obviously a simple solution
• 20:54 - 20:55
lock
• 20:55 - 20:58
and then in the locking position do any
• 20:58 - 21:00
hand swapping and another thing you need
• 21:00 - 21:02
to be aware of that sometimes if the
• 21:02 - 21:04
climber drops a bunch of slack your
• 21:04 - 21:06
blank device falls down and here you
• 21:06 - 21:09
need to be careful to not take your left
• 21:09 - 21:13
hand over the belaying device otherwise
• 21:13 - 21:16
if you do so and the climber falls your
• 21:16 - 21:16
hand
• 21:16 - 21:19
gets into this awkward position so
• 21:19 - 21:21
• 21:21 - 21:24
device and you grab the rope and now if
• 21:24 - 21:26
the climber would fall everything would
• 21:26 - 21:28
be fine all right next technique is
• 21:28 - 21:30
called p-bus which is more commonly used
• 21:30 - 21:34
in america which means pull break so
• 21:34 - 21:36
basically the same stuff as before
• 21:36 - 21:40
but now instead of taking over the hand
• 21:40 - 21:42
you take under
• 21:42 - 21:46
and slide so pull brake under slide
• 21:46 - 21:48
pull brake
• 21:48 - 21:50
under slide so the benefit of this
• 21:50 - 21:53
technique is your strong hand never
• 21:53 - 21:55
leaves the rope a little drawback of
• 21:55 - 21:57
this technique is when you have weight
• 21:57 - 21:59
on the rope and you're trying to take
• 21:59 - 22:00
hard
• 22:00 - 22:03
now sliding up this hand
• 22:03 - 22:06
is not as comfortable as in
• 22:06 - 22:10
hand over hand technique
• 22:10 - 22:12
so at some point as you will be
• 22:12 - 22:15
practicing your p-bus technique you will
• 22:15 - 22:18
realize that you don't actually need to
• 22:18 - 22:20
bring your left hand down there in order
• 22:20 - 22:23
to bring your big hand up you can simply
• 22:23 - 22:25
slide it up
• 22:25 - 22:27
and this is a third technique which is
• 22:27 - 22:30
called a tunnel technique and since your
• 22:30 - 22:32
left hand never leaves this rope
• 22:32 - 22:34
it's the most efficient technique
• 22:34 - 22:36
because you can always switch between
• 22:36 - 22:40
taking slack and giving slack instantly
• 22:40 - 22:43
so no matter in which moment of taking
• 22:43 - 22:45
slack i am i can always give slack
• 22:45 - 22:48
and contrary any other technique where
• 22:48 - 22:50
my left hand leaves
• 22:50 - 22:52
now it needs to go back in order for me
• 22:52 - 22:55
to give slack so it's an extra action
• 22:55 - 22:57
also tunnel technique is the best for
• 22:57 - 23:00
taking small amounts of slack
• 23:00 - 23:02
if i would try to take a small amount of
• 23:02 - 23:04
slack continuously with any other
• 23:04 - 23:07
technique it's
• 23:07 - 23:08
a lot of hand
• 23:08 - 23:10
movements
• 23:10 - 23:12
while the tunnel technique it's very
• 23:12 - 23:13
relaxed
• 23:13 - 23:16
and that's why it's the most efficient
• 23:16 - 23:18
technique however you might know or
• 23:18 - 23:20
maybe you don't this technique is
• 23:20 - 23:23
actually not considered acceptable in
• 23:23 - 23:25
some parts of the planet
• 23:25 - 23:28
with the argument that during the moment
• 23:28 - 23:30
where you slide the hand up
• 23:30 - 23:32
you don't have a firm grip on the brake
• 23:32 - 23:35
hand and during the fall maybe you will
• 23:35 - 23:37
not be able to catch the fall to which
• 23:37 - 23:40
here is my arguments
• 23:40 - 23:42
first of all if you use any assisted
• 23:42 - 23:46
belaying device you don't even need any
• 23:46 - 23:48
hard grip on the brake side of the rope
• 23:48 - 23:52
any light tug will make the device lock
• 23:52 - 23:55
so this is not an issue immediately now
• 23:55 - 23:57
if you are using a tube i actually went
• 23:57 - 23:59
out and did an experiment on this where
• 23:59 - 24:02
i asked inexperienced belayers to keep
• 24:02 - 24:05
moving the hand up and down while i was
• 24:05 - 24:07
distracting them and the climber was
• 24:07 - 24:10
taking unexpected falls for them
• 24:10 - 24:12
so stay tuned for that it's gonna be
• 24:12 - 24:14
really crazy and really interesting
• 24:14 - 24:17
episode but in general when sliding the
• 24:17 - 24:19
hand up don't make a big tunnel i don't
• 24:19 - 24:21
like that this technique is actually
• 24:21 - 24:22
called a tunnel method
• 24:22 - 24:25
it shouldn't be a tunnel you're barely
• 24:25 - 24:28
opening the hand just barely enough for
• 24:28 - 24:30
it to slide up the rope and if you are a
• 24:30 - 24:33
beginner it's really good idea to start
• 24:33 - 24:35
practicing with pbus technique because
• 24:35 - 24:38
you will be sliding your hand up the
• 24:38 - 24:39
rope a lot
• 24:39 - 24:42
with the backup of your other hand
• 24:42 - 24:44
and you will learn the feeling of the
• 24:44 - 24:47
rope going through your hand so start
• 24:47 - 24:49
with this and once you get really
• 24:49 - 24:51
comfortable with this
• 24:51 - 24:54
not bringing the left hand down and just
• 24:54 - 24:56
doing this will feel very natural by
• 24:56 - 24:58
that point
• 24:58 - 25:00
and just to make sure that i'm not
• 25:00 - 25:02
missing something in regards of safety
• 25:02 - 25:04
of these three techniques i wrote an
• 25:04 - 25:07
email to about 25 different climbing
• 25:07 - 25:09
safety related organizations and
• 25:09 - 25:11
associations and asked them to comment
• 25:11 - 25:13
on these techniques not all of them
• 25:13 - 25:16
replied unfortunately however out of
• 25:16 - 25:18
those who replied none of them said
• 25:18 - 25:21
anything against of any particular
• 25:21 - 25:23
technique so as long as you follow the
• 25:23 - 25:26
basic guidelines of proper belaying you
• 25:26 - 25:28
will be fine maybe with an exception if
• 25:28 - 25:29
you're in the united states and you need
• 25:29 - 25:32
to take a delaying exam then you might
• 25:32 - 25:35
be forced to use the pibas and few more
• 25:35 - 25:37
mistakes that people do when they're
• 25:37 - 25:39
taking slack first of all they take the
• 25:39 - 25:44
slack like this or like this
• 25:44 - 25:46
so unless you are using a assisted
• 25:46 - 25:48
building device and you're guaranteed
• 25:48 - 25:51
that that device will lock at this angle
• 25:51 - 25:53
which i will make a separate video on
• 25:53 - 25:56
that you might be in trouble second
• 25:56 - 25:59
mistake is people hold
• 25:59 - 26:01
both strands of the rope with the left
• 26:01 - 26:04
hand they do something like this
• 26:04 - 26:07
the reason why they do this is to
• 26:07 - 26:09
prevent the belaying device from falling
• 26:09 - 26:12
down there however to fix that you don't
• 26:12 - 26:14
need to hold both strands of the rope
• 26:14 - 26:16
you can just simply hold one strand of
• 26:16 - 26:18
the rope and you will have
• 26:18 - 26:21
exactly the same result
• 26:21 - 26:22
okay that's a lot of talking about
• 26:22 - 26:25
taking slack i just felt that that's the
• 26:25 - 26:27
most important part and the rest will be
• 26:27 - 26:30
much more simple so to give slack you
• 26:30 - 26:32
simply reverse the tunneling technique
• 26:32 - 26:34
where your left hand pulls up while your
• 26:34 - 26:37
right hand assists then the left hand
• 26:37 - 26:40
goes down and you slide the break hand
• 26:40 - 26:43
down and you repeat
• 26:44 - 26:46
and the same technique works with most
• 26:46 - 26:49
of assisted delaying devices while with
• 26:49 - 26:51
some of assisted devices you will need a
• 26:51 - 26:54
special action with assisted tubers it's
• 26:54 - 26:56
common to push them up while you're
• 26:56 - 26:58
giving slack
• 26:58 - 27:01
now in case of the grigri you can either
• 27:01 - 27:04
use that standard way of giving slack or
• 27:04 - 27:06
you can press and greek this cam and
• 27:06 - 27:08
pull the rope
• 27:08 - 27:10
just don't forget the rule number two
• 27:10 - 27:13
the rope stays in the hand all the time
• 27:13 - 27:15
now in case you need to give a lot of
• 27:15 - 27:18
slack quickly like if the climber is
• 27:18 - 27:20
about to clip you take your left hand
• 27:20 - 27:22
close to the laying device and your
• 27:22 - 27:24
break hand far from the laying device
• 27:24 - 27:27
this is important only then you can give
• 27:27 - 27:29
a lot of slack quickly
• 27:29 - 27:32
if your left hand is somewhere up you
• 27:32 - 27:36
will be limited by it how far up you can
• 27:36 - 27:39
raise this hand equally if your brick
• 27:39 - 27:41
hand is close you will be limited by
• 27:41 - 27:43
that hand how fast you can give slack
• 27:43 - 27:45
and then you will need to
• 27:45 - 27:48
do more actions so left hand close right
• 27:48 - 27:51
hand far anticipate and you can give a
• 27:51 - 27:53
lot of slack quickly and if things go
• 27:53 - 27:55
wrong you can take all of that slack
• 27:55 - 27:57
quickly back now when you need to lower
• 27:57 - 27:59
the climber you take both of the hands
• 27:59 - 28:01
on the brake side of the rope and you
• 28:01 - 28:04
use one hand to feed the rope to the
• 28:04 - 28:05
other hand
• 28:05 - 28:08
that's one way or if you're comfortable
• 28:08 - 28:10
you can let the rope slide through both
• 28:10 - 28:12
• 28:12 - 28:15
the risk here is however if you go too
• 28:15 - 28:18
fast the rope will go so fast through
• 28:18 - 28:20
both of your hands that it can burn both
• 28:20 - 28:22
of them and then you will probably drop
• 28:22 - 28:25
your climber so simply don't go fast
• 28:25 - 28:27
there is absolutely no point of lowering
• 28:27 - 28:29
a climber fast there is nothing cool
• 28:29 - 28:32
about that it heats your equipment way
• 28:32 - 28:34
more wears down your equipment it's
• 28:34 - 28:36
expensive and go in a controlled manner
• 28:36 - 28:39
and if you're not sure you can always
• 28:39 - 28:41
feed the rope like so and in case your
• 28:41 - 28:44
climber takes a fall
• 28:44 - 28:47
just hold on the brake side of the rope
• 28:47 - 28:49
even if you have number two in your
• 28:49 - 28:52
pants hold it never let go and as soon
• 28:52 - 28:55
as your climber will regain the ground
• 28:55 - 28:57
and unload the rope most of the blank
• 28:57 - 28:59
devices will unlock themselves and
• 28:59 - 29:02
you're ready to continue delaying while
• 29:02 - 29:05
with some devices like click up
• 29:05 - 29:08
once it locks you need a special action
• 29:08 - 29:11
to unlock it to continue blaming so as i
• 29:11 - 29:12
already said it's a good idea to look
• 29:12 - 29:14
into the manual of your blank device to
• 29:14 - 29:17
know all these little nuances that there
• 29:17 - 29:20
might be now if you are teaching
• 29:20 - 29:22
beginners or you are a beginner yourself
• 29:22 - 29:24
practice using belaying device on the
• 29:24 - 29:28
ground without a climber and only once
• 29:28 - 29:30
you're completely comfortable and you're
• 29:30 - 29:32
ready to go and actually play somebody
• 29:32 - 29:34
then make sure to have somebody
• 29:34 - 29:37
experienced backing up holding on the
• 29:37 - 29:39
break side of the rope and giving you
• 29:39 - 29:42
guidance assistance on your technique
• 29:42 - 29:45
this is really important i actually once
• 29:45 - 29:47
saved a climber when inexperienced
• 29:47 - 29:50
belayer was using a grigri i was backing
• 29:50 - 29:52
up the rope
• 29:52 - 29:54
and actually i was the one who caught
• 29:54 - 29:56
the fall and the full story if you're
• 29:56 - 29:59
interested is in this video about grigri
• 29:59 - 30:01
and of course don't take this video as a
• 30:01 - 30:03
complete guide into delaying there is
• 30:03 - 30:05
way more things you need to know from
• 30:05 - 30:08
proper slack management to soft catches
• 30:08 - 30:10
to belayer movement to good
• 30:10 - 30:12
communication with your climber and all
• 30:12 - 30:15
of that is coming in the future episodes
• 30:15 - 30:18
of belay master class
• 30:18 - 30:20
that's a lot of effort to make these
• 30:20 - 30:22
videos to be honest and this video was
• 30:22 - 30:24
brought to you by mamut
• 30:24 - 30:27
and by all the people who are supporting
• 30:27 - 30:30
me by visiting my website so huge thank
• 30:30 - 30:34
you for everyone and see you in the next
• 30:34 - 30:37
episode
Title:
Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6
Description:

more » « less
Video Language:
English
Team:
Hard Is Easy
Project:
Belay Masterclass
Duration:
30:35
 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6 Николай Н. Косовский edited English subtitles for Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6

# English subtitles

## Revisions Compare revisions

• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• Edited
Николай Н. Косовский
• ASR: YouTube automatic subtitles
Amara Bot