-
- So what's the problem
with this one?
-
- [Seller] That lasts for 3 days
and that's not real ube jam.
-
- Ah ok, it only lasts
for three days.
-
What's it made of?
-
- [Seller] That's not ube!
-
That's why
I don't recommend that.
-
- [Erwan] Ube is one
of the most culturally
-
important crops
in the Philippines.
-
Everyone has grown up eating it
or has memories
-
of their grandparents making
ube halaya,
-
our local jam.
-
It's actually hard to think
of a more recognizable
-
Filipino ingredient
and that's mostly due
-
to its deep purple color.
-
Thanks to it,
ube has recently become
-
the darling of pastry shops
and manufacturers
-
even outside the Philippines.
-
While this can be a good thing
for a cuisine
-
that's still trying
to establish itself internationally,
-
it's important that ube
does so
-
without losing its identity
and making sure
-
that the people who grow it
are compensated
-
for its surging popularity.
-
What is ube?
-
Where does it come from?
-
And how is it grown?
-
And where does
the Philippines fit
-
in this recipe?
-
- [Jam] It's not only part
of our cuisine,
-
it's part of our culture.
-
- [Ige] We avoid
all this controversy
-
about who owns what.
-
- [Aiza] The ube
is so delicious.
-
- [Ige] It represents
the unity of the Filipinos.
-
- My real first like love of ube
was Michelle's ube ice cream.
-
You know, who can say no
to ube ice cream?
-
Like you know,
look at me,
-
I'm like ube ice cream man.
-
Next thing you know,
I've got a bowl
-
of this big of ube ice cream.
And so, I fell in love
-
with the flavor.
-
You know, like when you have
your favorite band
-
or your favorite hip-hop group
and you're like,
-
"Oh, I know about them
before everybody else
-
knows about them."
-
You have like an affinity
all of a sudden.
-
I feel the same thing.
Like other people started
-
being like, "Wow.
That's cool!"
-
And then I'm like,
"Yeah. It's always been cool."
-
I wanted to have
that experience
-
where there eyes roll back
in their head
-
and they go,
"Oh, that's good!"
-
Most people they do it,
when they make something,
-
they're making it to sell it
to make a lot of money.
-
I was making
because I thought
-
it need to be made
and I thought it was beautiful.
-
Everyone knows bread.
-
It's striking and stunning
as far as like
-
the color of it.
-
And then, there's also...
-
Everyone knows that ube
isn't like...
-
Is it an incredibly strong flavor?
It's a delicate flavor.
-
So I do work really hard
to make sure
-
that it came across
in what I do.
-
But it is kind of like
a gateway, right,
-
where some people look
at things and they're like,
-
"Ooh, I don't know."
-
But with bread,
they're like,
-
"That's interesting.
I'll give it a try."
-
And then once they taste
the flavor,
-
now everywhere else
they go,
-
"I know what ube is.
-
I want to try it again.
I want to try it
-
in a different way.
I want to learn more about it."
-
A lot of people,
it's always funny
-
when they come up
to the markets,
-
they're like, "What's..."
-
They mispronounce it,
like my name, you know.
-
They're like sitting there
and like,
-
"What's an abe?"
-
And I'm like, "Huh?"
-
(giggles)
-
So yeah. So I think
it's definitely...
-
you know, getting to explain
what it is to people
-
and having people
be excited about it
-
is definitely a cool part
of what I feel like we get to do.
-
- We actually do some
-
Filipino-inspired breads
and pastries.
-
And one of that,
we actually have
-
our ube pop tart.
-
So it's made with puff pastry
and it's filled
-
with ube halaya jam.
-
Not a lot of people know
what ube is.
-
- What is ube?
- What is ube?
-
- Yeah.
- Where did it come from?
-
So we would always,
you know,
-
let them know
that ube is actually
-
from the Philippines.
- From the Philippines.
-
- We're very fortunate here
in the Bay Area
-
because we have such
a diverse community.
-
And majority of our customers
are Filipinos.
-
So they're looking
for a taste of home.
-
And for non-Filipinos,
-
we just have to educate them.
-
Unfortunately,
here in the US,
-
you cannot source
the freshest ube.
-
So what we do is...
-
what we use
is frozen ube purple yam
-
that we get
from a Filipino supermarket.
-
- So all
this international attention
-
is a good thing, right?
-
I actually believe that it is.
But let me ask you a question.
-
What are these two ingredients
have in common?
-
Let's talk about rice
for a second.
-
The Philippines was once seen
as the center
-
of rice production.
-
Other ASEAN countries
would actually come to us
-
to learn about rice
in the Philippines
-
and how
to plant it efficiently.
-
Eventually, we were surpassed
by them in terms
-
of export and revenue.
-
Each time you buy
a bag of Jasmine rice
-
from Thailand,
what does it say
-
on the packaging?
It says, "Thai Jasmine Rice".
-
Next, and this one
is particularly interesting
-
because it's still
in development.
-
Calamansi is one
of our endemic citruses,
-
and we're quite known
for growing it.
-
This is a brand from Korea
called No Brand.
-
And I used Google Translate
a while ago,
-
and what does it actually say
in the packaging?
-
It doesn't say
100% calamansi juice
-
from the Philippines.
It says 100% calamansi juice
-
from Vietnam.
-
Vietnam, in particular,
is actually starting
-
to really plant calamansis,
and eventually might even beat us
-
in calamansi exports,
which would be a shame.
-
So knowing how
these two things
-
are happening
to those two agricultural products,
-
is ube the next?
-
In the Philippines,
most people's first introduction
-
to ube is through halaya.
-
Back in the day,
everyone's lolas or grandmothers
-
would make it at home
for special occasions,
-
mixing it by hand for hours
and hours until thick.
-
This is the same tradition
that Marie grew up with,
-
who after learning
how to make it
-
from her grandmother,
has been selling it
-
from her home for years.
-
- I started cooking ube halaya jam
at 20 years old.
-
I tried
my grandmother's version of it.
-
By watching how she makes it,
I remembered
-
what the ingredients were.
And then, I started cooking it too.
-
First, you need to buy ube
from the local market.
-
And then boil it,
-
peel it, grate it.
-
Then get some coconut milk,
evaporated milk,
-
and sugar.
-
- When I was younger,
about 7 to 10 years old,
-
I remember my grandmother
would cook ube halaya
-
and we would all gather
around her.
-
My grandfather, my father—
everyone helped in mixing it.
-
- The kids would would eagerly wait
to get a taste of ube.
-
Now that I'm a mom,
I want to earn extra.
-
One day in December,
my aunt told me,
-
"Dear, why don't you sell
ube halaya?"
-
"You could get ube
at a cheap price these days."
-
"You could make more profit
since it's in season."
-
I told my grandmother,
"Auntie's right!
-
Let's make
some ube halaya."
-
The next day, I went
to the market
-
to buy some ingredients
and we cooked them immediately.
-
From then on,
we started selling ube halaya.
-
Today, we would sometimes
sell 70-80 tubs
-
of ube halaya per day.
-
Our ube halaya business
has been thriving.
-
Cooking ube takes three
to four hours of mixing,
-
but it sometimes depends
on the quantity.
-
The more you cook,
the longer it takes.
-
We still prefer
the traditional way
-
of cooking it,
because doing so allows us
-
to do it with love.
-
When you take shortcuts,
the essence of it is lost.
-
Like, the history behind ube
and our family, disappears.
-
It's delicious and makes
all the effort worth it,
-
especially when we get feedback
from people saying
-
how good our ube is.
-
- Our recipe remains unchanged.
-
I still follow the original recipe
to ensure it tastes great
-
until today.
-
Ube is not just being bought
by the Filipinos.
-
We plant it.
-
It's really from...
-
from soil to plate.
-
It's part of our culture.
-
- [Erwan] This is Jam,
founder of the
-
Philippine Culinary
Heritage Movement
-
where they promote
Filipino food locally
-
and internationally.
-
The recipes that we have
been doing are passed down
-
from one generation
to another.
-
It's very nostalgic.
-
I think just like ube,
the Filipino culture
-
is very diverse.
-
Ube is diverse.
-
- This looks like real ube.
-
I would say yes,
it has.
-
No!
-
- They add flavocol,
or flavor and color.
-
So it's different
from flavoring.
-
Despite having something
as popular as ube,
-
why is there still heavy use
of coloring
-
and artificial ube flavoring?
-
Is it really that hard
to find?
-
I checked local supermarkets,
definitely not going
-
to find any real ube there.
-
But now we are
at a wet market,
-
the Guadalupe Market
to be exact.
-
We're going to have
a look around
-
and hopefully,
we can find the tuber
-
that is so sought-after.
-
Hi! Do you have ube or not?
-
- Ube?
-
- Yeah.
-
- No.
-
- Not here? Okay.
Thank you!
-
Okay. So we've been looking
around for about 20 minutes
-
and I think we finally found
a stall that actually has ube.
-
Let's actually buy
a couple kilos.
-
Could I get some ube?
-
Where did this ube come from?
-
- Batangas.
-
This one, banana?
-
- No, no, no.
The ube.
-
- Ah! Batangas.
-
Php200 ($4)
-
- Php200 per kilo?
-
- Yeah.
-
- It's from Batangas also?
-
- That's from Batangas.
-
- Really?
-
This vendor was selling
her ube for Php200 a kilo
-
which is pretty high.
-
So I was curious
how much we can get it
-
from a farm.
-
Root crops have been
staple foods in the Philippines
-
for a very long time.
-
The Aetas, said
to be the first inhabitants
-
of the country,
have been cultivating it
-
for millennia.
-
And eating it not just
for sweets.
-
I expected a farm,
like a flat one.
-
I've been to potato farms before
and this is completely different.
-
We're literally on the cliff
of the mountainside.
-
And it's really hard
to actually find your footing.
-
And if you look
at all of this,
-
there's really
no organization.
-
So they really know
exactly where they plant things
-
due to kind
of like the leaves.
-
So they're looking
around now to kind
-
of find the ube trees,
which they know
-
where they are.
-
And now, it depends
on whether or not they'll be able
-
to find kind
of like sizeable ones
-
that's good enough
to harvest.
-
- Let's take a look.
-
This has seedlings.
-
This is how it looks.
-
This is an ube seedling,
this is what you plant.
-
It may look tiny,
but when you bury it
-
in soil, it grows bigger.
-
It's good to grow ube
in the mountains
-
because it multiplies.
-
I'm Aiza Lansang,
35 years old.
-
I live in Porac, Pampanga.
I'm a farmer.
-
I learned how to farm ube
from my parents.
-
Most Aetas in our community
grow and harvest ube.
-
We would plant ube in May.
-
Then, harvest them
from October to December,
-
or even until January.
-
It's our most expensive crop.
-
It sustains Aetas like me
who live in the mountains.
-
Every month, I harvest
about 200 kilos of ube
-
that I sell in the city.
-
This ube's huge.
-
Let's take off the soil.
-
- [Man] How many kilos
do you think that is?
-
- Probably 1 1/2 kilo.
-
Before, we didn't have access
to transporation,
-
not even a motorcycle.
-
We just walk all the way
to the city
-
with our mountain produce.
-
We carry them in sacks
over our heads
-
or our shoulders.
-
Then when we arrive
at the market,
-
the buyers won't even pay us
with money,
-
only in kind.
-
About 2 kilos of rice,
a pair of sachets
-
of instant coffee,
salt, and MSG. That's it.
-
We really suffer losses
considering how hard it is
-
to harvest ube.
-
Then when you get down
from the moutains,
-
especially when it's raining,
that's the toughest challenge
-
since we carry our produce
on our backs.
-
We even have to cross a river.
-
It's hard to imagine
how you can bring it
-
to the town proper.
-
In 2019, we met
Operation Share-A-Blessing.
-
They've become our partners
in our livelihood
-
since they buy our produce.
-
Before, our customers
would buy our ube
-
at Php25 ($0.5) a kilo.
-
But now, we thank the Lord
that we could sell it
-
to them for a little
over a dollar (Php60)
-
for every kilo.
-
Our mountain-grown ube here
is vibrantly purple.
-
It's all natural.
-
- [Erwan] By creating
a Facebook page
-
for the Aeta farmers,
Chef Chris Gomez and their group
-
helped the community
get more value for their produce.
-
By selling it Php100 a kilo,
Php60 goes to the farmers
-
while the rest goes
to logistics cost
-
and their outreach programs.
-
- [Aiza] Mountain-grown ubes
is very beautiful.
-
It's a deep purple.
-
- This is kind
of like your real jungle
-
wild farming
which produces this
-
kind of beautiful,
extremely deep violet purple ube.
-
And to think that they're able
to do this
-
for larger quantities
is incredible.
-
Okay. Let's taste it.
-
Here in the mountains,
we don't add anything
-
to our ube.
We enjoy it in its pure
-
and natural form.
-
- Even without sugar,
it's already sweet.
-
When we boil it like this,
it's so delicious
-
since you could really taste
the ube.
-
- Can I have a small chunk?
I'll just try a little bit.
-
- You can add a little sugar
or eat it straight.
-
- So this is without sugar
or anything,
-
just how it's supposed
to taste.
-
And when I explain flavor
of ube to people,
-
one thing that's really
like prevalent here
-
is you do get a lot
of the smokiness
-
from the wood fire,
which is quite nice.
-
It's like a nutty flavor.
It's like between
-
a taro root,
in terms of its consistency,
-
with this like sweetness
of let's say a sweet potato.
-
- Our ube is organic.
-
I'll teach my children
how to farm ube
-
so even
when they don't have rice,
-
they would have something
to sustain their families.
-
- [Erwan] Scientifically known
as "Dioscorea Alata,"
-
ube, commonly known as yam,
is one of the most important species
-
under the genus Dioscorea
with 600 species,
-
150 of which are cultivated
for food.
-
It is a perennial climbing herb
with fresh color ranging
-
from light to deep purple,
planted from April to June
-
and harvested
from October to February.
-
The origin of ube
or purple yam is unknown.
-
But a quick Google search
will tell you
-
that while it remains
a staple food
-
in some places
in Southeast Asia,
-
West Africa, and South America,
it is specifically grown
-
in the Philippines,
especially the most purple varieties.
-
There's no written documentation
as to when Filipinos
-
first started using ube
for deserts.
-
But remains of ube
have actually been recovered
-
from the Ille Cave,
archeological site, in Palawan
-
from 11,000 BC.
-
Food historian
Felice Prudente Sta. Maria
-
also said that the first Tagalog
and Spanish dictionary
-
published in 1613
mentioned ube.
-
But it was in 1918
that the second earliest
-
Philippine cookbook
showed a recipe
-
for halaya de kalabasa,
or pumpkin jam,
-
which may have inspired
the ube halaya jam.
-
- The Philippines
is a young country,
-
but at the same time,
we have ancient cultivars.
-
So even before the Philippines
was known as Philippines,
-
ube already existed.
-
- [Erwan] This is Ige Ramos,
a food historian
-
and author.
-
- But its culinary use
and its gastronomical importance
-
is only highlighted
in the last, well, 70 years.
-
That only now that we are,
you know,
-
realizing the importance
of ube,
-
not just in our culture
but in our economy.
-
In America, they confuse ube
with purple sweet potato
-
because of the color.
-
You know, it has
that really bright purple hue.
-
To know more about ube,
we drove up north
-
to meet a research team
that specializes on this crop
-
and its varieties.
-
But first, a quick visit
to the local market.
-
This is probably some
of the biggest ube
-
I've seen locally.
-
If you're in Manila,
clearly you can't find this size.
-
But what's even funnier here
is you're walking
-
through the stalls
and there are tons
-
of places that actually sell
processed ube goods
-
like the jams and all that.
-
Some of them real,
apparently,
-
and some of them fake.
-
But there's only one stall
that we found
-
that actually had
these massive pieces
-
of ube, which means
there's kind
-
of like a weird supply issue,
but also like
-
a usage issue
and how many people
-
and how people are using
this product
-
in their homes, right?
-
This look absolutely beautiful.
-
We're going to have
a look around a bit more now.
-
And then, we're going
to go ahead and go
-
to the Benguet State University.
-
How much for all these?
I'll get all of it.
-
- This one?
- All four.
-
- But I don't recommend
this one.
-
It's good for three days only.
-
- It's okay. Okay.
-
- Are you sure?
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
-
What's the problem
with this one?
-
- [Seller] That lasts for 3 days
and that's not real ube jam.
-
- What it's made of?
-
- That's not ube.
-
- That's not ube?
-
- Yeah. That's why
I don't recommend that.
-
- Ah ok.
-
- Maybe you try
these ones only.
-
- No, no. It's fine.
I mean, we're making
-
a documentary about ube,
so all of it's fine.
-
- Are you sure?
- I'm sure.
-
Thank you for letting me know.
-
Well, I love this.
We bought four real ube jams
-
and one fake.
She actually told me
-
it was fake.
-
But the funny part is,
it says that it's real ube,
-
which is one
of the problems
-
we're trying
to address, right?
-
Why is a product
that's not ube allowed
-
to be called ube?
-
I'm so intrigued.
-
So we have
some proper ube jams.
-
And this is kind
of like the OG, right?
-
The Good Shepherd one.
-
And this is
by the most famous one.
-
Like compared
to all of these,
-
this one is really the one
that states like ube jam,
-
like the most flashy one.
-
So why is this problematic?
-
A couple things.
-
One, it says ube
when it's not ube,
-
which shouldn't be allowed.
-
Number two,
it actually says "Baguio"
-
which is kind
of a graphical indication.
-
So when people see Baguio ube,
they think
-
of Good Shepherd,
they think of a mark of quality.
-
But because it's unregulated,
anyone can call anything
-
anything they want
and benefit
-
from the marketing
of that city
-
and that know-how.
-
And the ingredients...
This is the best part.
-
The ingredients says
"Fresh ube".
-
It really does.
-
So that's a blatant lie
on their product.
-
Let's look at the product.
-
It's bouncy.
-
Clearly some gelatin
in there.
-
I think it's rice.
-
I mean, it's not bad.
-
It just tastes
like gelatin, rice flour,
-
and ube extract.
-
Okay. This is the real one.
-
There. See that's impossible
to fake.
-
Whoa.
-
Extremely sweet,
but delicious.
-
I'm actually really interested
as to why Baguio became
-
kind of like so known
for ube.
-
So I think meeting
our contact
-
at the Benguet State University
should clear some things up.
-
- Ube is one of the majors
we are researching.
-
So we have several projects.
-
One of the projects
is the variety improvement.
-
It's really very important
to distinguish
-
the ube varieties,
because the purple ube
-
is more in demand
for the processing.
-
These processing industries
have particular requirements,
-
like the varieties
that have small shape.
-
Also, they prefer
the deep purple fresh ube.
-
Root crops was once
the staple food
-
of the people here
in the northern Philippines,
-
most especially here in the
Cordillera Administrative Region.
-
But now that the production
of the root crops now,
-
and tuber crops now
is already dwindling
-
because they do not have source
of clean, planting materials.
-
These farmers already are going
into other cash crops
-
because of those problems.
-
In 2006, the supply of ube
in the entire country,
-
Philippines...
-
We have 30,000 metric tons.
-
Now, in the year 2021,
it decreased to 14,000 metric tons.
-
So there is really a decrease
of about 50%.
-
- [Erwan] So this is where
you already have full-formed ube
-
in the bottom.
-
- [Cynthia] Yes. There are
already ube that are ready
-
to be harvested,
the ube tubers.
-
This one, these are
for seed production.
-
So now, this is already
in its six months old ube.
-
We have already harvested
some of it,
-
because after three months,
we'll start harvesting tubers
-
here in the aeroponics.
-
- 'Cause I've seen
ube plants before
-
where the...
-
- Ah, the aerial tubers?
-
- The aerial tubers.
-
- Yes.
-
- What's the difference
between the ones
-
that grow here and then
the ones that grow undernearth?
-
- For seeds actually.
-
It's not for food.
-
- They usually fully mature
in the ground?
-
- Yes.
-
- Ah, okay. Got it.
-
So this is one of the...
-
So this is actually ready
for harvest.
-
We usually harvest it
when it's this big.
-
Then, let's remove the roots.
-
What's the most priced variety?
-
What do people want to plant?
-
- The Kinampay.
Yeah. The Kinampay
-
and then the Mindoro,
because of the deep purple.
-
- And the shape.
-
- Yeah. And the shape.
-
It commands also
a higher price in the market.
-
Yes.
-
Actually, the planting material
that we use
-
is typicall this size.
-
Small seedlings like these
are usually planted here
-
in the greenhouse.
-
But the bigger ones
at 50 grams and above,
-
we plant them in the field.
-
So after eight months,
the ube matures
-
before it's ready for harvest.
-
This is how we multiply
tissue culture plants for ube.
-
After a month, it becomes ready
for propagation
-
through nodal cuttings.
-
After removing the leaves,
we are left with the node.
-
Then, we cut them
into single node
-
so that it can multiply
on the ground.
-
These are the different varieties.
-
In Benguet, we collected
about 101 varieties.
-
- [Erwan] Wow.
-
- [Cynthia] Yes.
-
- But these are the main focus?
-
- Yeah.
These are the main focus.
-
- [Erwan] Okay.
So now we can taste them.
-
- [Cynthia] Yeah, you can.
-
- So excited to try
different varieties.
-
You don't know how like...
-
- [Cynthia] Saucer.
-
- When we were in Manila,
it's so hard to find
-
the varieties.
-
And when we go
to the market,
-
we asked what variety is it.
-
- Yeah. They don't even...
-
- People have no idea.
-
- Yeah. They don't have...
-
- So this is very exciting
for me.
-
- Yes.
-
So this is the Kina...
-
There are five varieties
that you're going to try.
-
- I'll try the Kinampay first.
-
Mindoro.
-
Sampero.
-
This is grainier
and much fluffier
-
in terms of texture.
-
But these two have stronger,
more determined flavor.
-
Zambal.
-
Yeah. That doesn't take
like anything.
-
(chuckles)
-
I mean, I don't want
to be picky with the bread.
-
But this one
has not much flavor at all.
-
And Padihot.
-
This is the prettiest purple.
-
It's the deepest purple.
-
More water content, right?
-
- [Cynthia] Ooh, watery.
-
- [Erwan] It would probably
be harder to work with
-
'cause it has
more moisture inside.
-
That flavor was also
very similar to Sampero, not much.
-
- And also,
that's Sampero.
-
Because when it comes
to aroma also,
-
this Kinampay and Sampero
has the best aroma.
-
That's why sometimes,
they are combining Mindoro
-
and Kinampay,
so that this one
-
will provide the aroma.
-
- But yeah, flavor wise,
the Kinampay's the best.
-
- So actually,
these are the Mindoro.
-
These are already the halaya.
-
- [Erwan] Halaya Mindoro.
-
So good.
-
Okay. Now you know.
If you want to buy ube,
-
buy Kinampay...
-
I would even say buy Kinampay
and then mix it with...
-
- [Cynthia] Padihot.
-
- Padihot for colors,
so you don't need to use
-
extracts or anything for color.
-
That was amazing
and so eye-opening.
-
Ma'am Cynthia...
-
You can really feel
how passionate she is.
-
She's been doing this
for 40 years.
-
She said next year,
she's going to be retiring,
-
which...
-
I mean, obviously at one point
you need to,
-
but I think it's also such
a same.
-
She's such an integral part
in kind of making sure people
-
know about ube
and farmers know how to grow it.
-
And that was, for me,
just eye-opening in terms
-
of not only different flavors
and tastes,
-
but also the technicalities
of ube farming
-
and why certain people decide
not to farm them.
-
But I do think it's an industry
that has a lot of potential.
-
Like it could have
a lot of benefits
-
for a lot of people,
and can just really represent
-
what the Philippines is
and really put
-
our agricultural products
on the international map.
-
- I think the government
should be more concerned
-
with the geographic indicators
of our product.
-
And we can actually command
a higher price
-
if we can actually designate
a geographic indication
-
on our products,
especially ube.
-
Now, that ube now
is getting popular.
-
The source of ube...
-
You know, like the information
should come from us
-
and not from them.
-
If we have that kind
of geographical indication
-
on our ube,
-
we can say that, okay,
so ube is from the Philippines
-
and this is the kind of cultivar
that we have.
-
And this is like the best
for making halaya
-
and starches.
-
And then we can actually claim it
as our own.
-
So that you avoid
all this controversy about,
-
you know, who owns what.
-
- [Erwan] With what we know
about ube so far
-
is there a way to guarantee
is authenticity, origin,
-
and the tradition behind it.
-
Actually, there is.
-
And the concept
has been implemented
-
by the European Union
since 1992.
-
Protected Designation of Origin
or PDO products.
-
With a PDO status,
the origin, quality, history,
-
and tradition behind a product
is valued and protected.
-
You'll find cheese, wines,
hams, seafood, etc.,
-
And you're right.
They are all under PDO.
-
Imagine if the same can be done
for Filipino products.
-
It would bring immense
to the farmers
-
and communities involved,
encouraging them to keep
-
these traditions alive
and motivating other people
-
to do the same
and not only focus
-
on commodity crops
that do nothing for our soil,
-
diversity, or culture.
-
We would have a sense
of pride for local products
-
that would translate
internationally.
-
If anyone from the government
is listening,
-
here we created a draft logo
that you can use if you want.
-
From up north,
let's go to Bohol
-
where ube Kinampay
is not only abundant
-
but also revered.
-
We talked to Esmeraldo
and Celencio,
-
president and vice president
-
of the
Bohol Ube Growers Association
-
or third generation
ube farmers.
-
- Based on my experience
and age,
-
because now that I'm
a senior citizen,
-
ube really
is the most important
-
since the time of our ancestors.
-
Ube really became important
because it is the savior
-
during these times
of food crisis especially
-
during those years
when we had
-
difficulty sourcing rice.
-
During those days,
I think it was the 60s or 70s,
-
we had a hard time.
-
- During the Hispanic era,
a great famine
-
caused by the long drought
occurred
-
Consequently,
all the green visitation died
-
and the new settler
around the municipalities
-
of Dauis, Panglao,
and Baclayon
-
in the province of Bohol
and other neighboring areas
-
were starved and many died.
-
In their constant search
for food,
-
someone accidentally struck
a fleshy tuber in the ground,
-
some white and purple
in color.
-
The family settler cook it
and found that the tuber
-
is very delicious
and very nutritious.
-
- There are so many stories
about how
-
if you dropped an ube,
you have to kiss it.
-
And that we have
to handle ube very well.
-
Or that you're nearly asked
to go to church
-
so you will not get bad karma.
-
It was said
that ube impacts your karma,
-
according to the elders.
-
But in the present,
in the modern age,
-
we can say that
that is not the case.
-
Because if you pay attention
to the old tales,
-
ube is kissed so that
the ube will not rot easily
-
because when the ube
is bruised or mishandled a little,
-
it really will rot easily.
-
So, it needs to be handled well.
-
- The ube in Bohol is...
-
We consider it unique.
-
In fact, in our Bohol hymn,
it's the only crop
-
that is being mentioned
in the lines of the Bohol hymn.
-
And when we spell,
our spelling of ube in Bohol
-
is not the u-b-e,
it's the u-b-i.
-
It is the acronym
of the Unique Boholano Identity.
-
More than 50% of the ube
in the whole country
-
comes from Bohol.
-
- The Kinampay really has
an aroma that lingers
-
and permeates
when it is cooked,
-
even the neighbors can smell it.
-
This is what is considered
the best Kinampay in Bohol.
-
- The style of preparation
is 6 openings of the spot.
-
So it will be the right size
of the...
-
We space it 60 by 60 cm
in between hills.
-
That's the standard
in growing ube.
-
Remove the rocks
so they will not disrupt
-
the ube growth.
-
On my part, I've been doing it
ahead because I'm older.
-
I think I've been gambling
on planting ube for three decades.
-
Because I've seen that
in the root crop,
-
there is profit
and it can be a source
-
of livelihood.
-
It's like you're banking
on the possibility
-
that within eight months,
you're holding on
-
to your money.
-
When you harvest,
you'll see the profit
-
because of how
in demand ube is.
-
- To think that I'm the president
of Bohol Ube Growers,
-
we made a record.
-
Including the 28 member cities
in all of Bohol.
-
Based on the data
that we gathered,
-
some are estimated,
but some are actual.
-
That harvest reaches
almost 30 tons in all of Bohol,
-
not including some walk-ins,
we call them walk-ins,
-
those who plant ube
that are not included
-
in our organization.
-
This is why at the moment,
our ube doesn't seem
-
to be enough to meet demand.
-
We can say that
it's not enough
-
because the past week,
someone called me.
-
They were looking for 70 tons.
It seems to be very difficult.
-
This is why it would be great
to encourage the other planters
-
and those
who don't even plant yet
-
to plant ube.
-
Because where are we going
to find that 70 tons?
-
The production of ube
in Bohol is really not enough.
-
No matter what we do
and how hard we try
-
to meet the demand.
-
One factor is the capital.
-
That is why when there's lots
of capital and there
-
are younger generations
who are interested to gamble
-
on planting ube,
and we can explain
-
to them properly that ube
does generate good profit.
-
- [Erwan] Besides the struggle
of beating the demand for ube,
-
the farmers in Bohol
also deal with other challenges.
-
- What we just prepared,
we will now plant.
-
Come here first.
Oh, this is ready,
-
and the soil preparation.
-
So when we plant this,
we tilt it sideways
-
so that it will be easy to grow
from its first planting.
-
Let's make it look like this.
-
So that when we bury it
in the soil,
-
it will be like that.
-
Cover it. And then,
we will wait until
-
it begins to sprout.
-
Around next month.
-
The difference between big scale
and small ube farmers
-
is that the small ones
yield small quantities
-
and they have less.
-
None of them have peso signs
in their brains.
-
Mid-scale is different
because the yield becomes bigger.
-
Incrementally, you will yield
more ube.
-
You then make the effort
to join seminars,
-
join the industry organizations,
so that you can get involved
-
in bigger harvests.
-
And then, you can sell faster.
-
Because there are programs
in the Department of Trade
-
and Industry
that require farmers
-
that are profit-centric.
-
Because if you aren't,
you will not improve.
-
- [Erwan] Once these challenges
are addressed,
-
there's so much
economic opportunity with ube.
-
Besides, retail farmers
can also sell their produce
-
to businesses
that process ube.
-
We took a closer look
to one such enterprise
-
which uses ube
in their snacks and pastries
-
by the volume.
-
- Ube Kinampay
is a much loved product here
-
in Bohol.
-
And it started
when the local government
-
here in Tagbilaran City,
they hosted ube festival
-
every year.
-
So they encourage Boholanos
to make different kinds
-
of ube products.
-
We grow our own ube
and we also get it
-
from our employees.
-
They grow it in their...
-
in their farm in the towns.
-
And it's ready for harvest,
we buy it from them.
-
Aside from our employees,
we also get it
-
from the local farmers here
in Bohol,
-
also in Mindanao.
-
We consume about 1,000 kilos
of ube every month.
-
And what we do is we mix
ube Kinampay and ube halaya
-
to get that nice color,
nice texture,
-
and a good taste.
-
- [Erwan] That's just one
of the many ways
-
medium to large scale businesses
use ube in their products
-
in conventional ways.
-
But how else can this distinctly
Filipino flavor
-
be integrated respectfully
while preserving its integrity.
-
We sat down
with Chef Joanna Arciaga
-
of Half Saints to know more.
-
- We celebrate
local ingredients.
-
We sort of challenge ourselves
because most Filipinos know ube
-
in its processed form,
-
the most famous processed form
which is the ube halaya.
-
So if it's not ube halaya,
then it's not ube.
-
They're like looking
for that certain flavor
-
that they can only taste
from ube jam.
-
That challenge is what sort
of inspire us to make
-
an all-ube dish
that presents ube
-
in a different light,
more subtle than what
-
most Filipinos know ube.
-
If you take ube...
-
fresh raw ube and you boil it,
the flavor is earthy,
-
but it's very subtle.
-
And that subtlety
is what makes it versatile
-
because you can combine it
with different flavors,
-
but still get a nice desert
out of it.
-
We get our ube
from our local supplier
-
who gets it from Nueva Ecija.
-
So the ube comes to us fresh.
-
It makes the tradition of,
for example,
-
making halaya sacred
as the stories behind it.
-
If we make halaya
in a different way
-
or a more modern way,
does it mean we lose
-
the stories behind making it
the traditional way?
-
I think it will be inevitable
for the method to change
-
through time,
because as more equipment
-
becomes modern,
the approach may not be
-
the same as
how we traditionally make ube.
-
But I think we can preserve it
by making it from scratch,
-
using less processed ingredients
as possible,
-
not putting artificial flavors.
-
You know,
making the ingredient stand out.
-
- We should take pride
in ingredients such as ube,
-
because it's not only part
of our cuisine,
-
it's part of our culture,
it's part of who we are.
-
This is why we should continue
this conversation
-
for people to get
a better understanding
-
about ube.
-
It's a lot of work.
-
And I believe as Filipino
because we are
-
on the right track.
-
But we lobby private
and public partnerships
-
for an in-depth research,
promotion, preservation
-
for Filipino food
and gastronomy.
-
Any country can grow anything,
can plant anything.
-
So we should make sure
that we,
-
not only focus
on the high score mango,
-
the usual crops
that we export,
-
we should also focus
with the heirloom produce
-
that we have.
-
And we should highlight this
because nobody will plant it,
-
nobody will buy it.
It's going to die.
-
Next thing you know,
other countries
-
will start planting it.
-
- Ube or purple yam
kind of became the symbol
-
of Philippines
on the artistic point of view,
-
because I'm a visual artist.
-
I know what color is.
-
So it kind of like represents
the unity of the Filipinos
-
because if you mix
the colors of our flag,
-
red and blue,
it creates purple or violet.
-
So I think that
that's unconsciously...
-
or unconsciously,
we think of ube
-
as like a unifying...
-
Like especially halaya ube
as like a unifying symbol.
-
And then when you put
like a yellow margarine
-
on top of it,
that is the sun and stars.
-
- For people to know
about Filipino food,
-
it's important
for our ingredients
-
to have a sense of origin.
-
Every time ube is eaten,
people should know
-
it's a Filipino ingredient,
just like how you have
-
Japanese rice, or miso.
-
Not only will this make
Filipino food part
-
of the international conversation,
but it will also motivate
-
local growers and farmers
to be more specific
-
with what they're planting,
and take pride
-
in their produce,
which could lead
-
to greater crop diversity
and food security
-
in a country
that direly needs it.