WEBVTT 00:00:00.120 --> 00:00:03.600 this is a dynamic climbing rope one can 00:00:03.600 --> 00:00:07.259 take hundreds of these massive Falls and 00:00:07.259 --> 00:00:10.980 it will still provide a soft Landing for 00:00:10.980 --> 00:00:13.500 the climber Now Let's ignore the blue 00:00:13.500 --> 00:00:16.859 protective shift and pull out the core 00:00:16.859 --> 00:00:19.980 so this white strands is the core of the 00:00:19.980 --> 00:00:22.260 Rope which is responsible for majority 00:00:22.260 --> 00:00:25.560 of rope's strength if I would untwist 00:00:25.560 --> 00:00:28.859 the core strand eventually I would get 00:00:28.859 --> 00:00:31.859 to this thing which is called a 00:00:31.859 --> 00:00:34.920 multi-filament and if I would dig deeper 00:00:34.920 --> 00:00:38.219 and try to separate the smallest part of 00:00:38.219 --> 00:00:41.280 the Rope I would get to a single 00:00:41.280 --> 00:00:46.980 filament which I can barely see so this 00:00:46.980 --> 00:00:49.739 is a single filament 00:00:49.739 --> 00:00:52.440 so this filament is about 10 times 00:00:52.440 --> 00:00:54.719 thinner than the human hair and there is 00:00:54.719 --> 00:00:58.079 about 50 to 80 00:00:58.079 --> 00:01:01.260 000 of them in a single rope and all of 00:01:01.260 --> 00:01:03.780 them run across entire length of the 00:01:03.780 --> 00:01:06.659 Rope now during the fall this filaments 00:01:06.659 --> 00:01:10.020 stretch but also they slide past each 00:01:10.020 --> 00:01:12.780 other which creates friction and this 00:01:12.780 --> 00:01:15.240 friction helps to dampen the impact 00:01:15.240 --> 00:01:18.060 however if we would make a rope wet 00:01:18.060 --> 00:01:20.700 water on the surface of the filaments 00:01:20.700 --> 00:01:22.979 would act as a lubricant this would 00:01:22.979 --> 00:01:25.680 allow the filaments to slide easier past 00:01:25.680 --> 00:01:27.720 each other which would reduce the 00:01:27.720 --> 00:01:30.479 dampening effect also you can probably 00:01:30.479 --> 00:01:33.000 imagine that as I want to stretch the 00:01:33.000 --> 00:01:36.000 Rope out it needs to shrink in diameter 00:01:36.000 --> 00:01:39.119 however if the Rope is full of water in 00:01:39.119 --> 00:01:42.240 order to shrink in diameter first it 00:01:42.240 --> 00:01:45.600 needs to spit the water out however if 00:01:45.600 --> 00:01:48.000 the impact is hard enough the water 00:01:48.000 --> 00:01:51.360 cannot Escape faster it's like when you 00:01:51.360 --> 00:01:53.520 belly flop on the water and the water 00:01:53.520 --> 00:01:55.560 doesn't have enough time to flow around 00:01:55.560 --> 00:01:58.680 your body and things get even more 00:01:58.680 --> 00:02:01.140 interesting from here if we would look 00:02:01.140 --> 00:02:04.619 deeper deep deep inside the filament we 00:02:04.619 --> 00:02:07.799 would find this but don't worry the only 00:02:07.799 --> 00:02:09.539 thing you need to know that this is a 00:02:09.539 --> 00:02:12.540 monomer which joins together to form a 00:02:12.540 --> 00:02:15.540 polymer chain and this chain can be very 00:02:15.540 --> 00:02:19.500 long very very long which is really 00:02:19.500 --> 00:02:23.099 great for making filament fiber and this 00:02:23.099 --> 00:02:25.260 is where things get interesting notice 00:02:25.260 --> 00:02:27.900 that some parts of this fiber are 00:02:27.900 --> 00:02:31.140 arranged neatly in order these parts are 00:02:31.140 --> 00:02:34.140 called crystalline and they have polymer 00:02:34.140 --> 00:02:37.200 chains packed so close together that 00:02:37.200 --> 00:02:39.540 they form an attraction for each other 00:02:39.540 --> 00:02:42.420 and this happens because hydrogen from 00:02:42.420 --> 00:02:45.420 one chain really likes the oxygen from 00:02:45.420 --> 00:02:47.760 the other chain so all of this makes 00:02:47.760 --> 00:02:50.519 these parts really strong with which is 00:02:50.519 --> 00:02:52.140 great for the strength of the Rope 00:02:52.140 --> 00:02:55.560 however it also makes these parts really 00:02:55.560 --> 00:02:58.379 stiff which is not so great when you 00:02:58.379 --> 00:03:01.319 want your dynamic rope to stretch and 00:03:01.319 --> 00:03:03.300 that's what these other parts that look 00:03:03.300 --> 00:03:06.000 like spaghettis are four they are called 00:03:06.000 --> 00:03:08.760 amorphous and they have much bigger gaps 00:03:08.760 --> 00:03:11.340 between the chains which allows them to 00:03:11.340 --> 00:03:12.360 stretch 00:03:12.360 --> 00:03:14.340 so when the force is applied on the 00:03:14.340 --> 00:03:17.640 fiber these spaghetti Parts stretch and 00:03:17.640 --> 00:03:19.680 the crystalline Parts provide the 00:03:19.680 --> 00:03:22.800 strength you can probably imagine that a 00:03:22.800 --> 00:03:24.900 very stiff rope 00:03:24.900 --> 00:03:27.959 wouldn't be great for climbing but 00:03:27.959 --> 00:03:30.000 neither the Rope which would stretch too 00:03:30.000 --> 00:03:32.599 much because when I fall I want to land 00:03:32.599 --> 00:03:36.000 not on the ground so by controlling the 00:03:36.000 --> 00:03:38.459 ratio between spaghettis and crystalline 00:03:38.459 --> 00:03:41.819 Parts rope manufacturers can create this 00:03:41.819 --> 00:03:44.700 great strength but at the same time 00:03:44.700 --> 00:03:48.299 perfect Force absorption which is quite 00:03:48.299 --> 00:03:50.760 impressive now remember I said that 00:03:50.760 --> 00:03:53.760 hydrogen really likes the oxygen guess 00:03:53.760 --> 00:03:56.280 what else has a lot of hydrogen and 00:03:56.280 --> 00:04:00.180 oxygen that's right water good news is 00:04:00.180 --> 00:04:02.640 that water cannot really penetrate into 00:04:02.640 --> 00:04:04.860 the crystalline parts of the fiber 00:04:04.860 --> 00:04:07.620 because the chains there are very packed 00:04:07.620 --> 00:04:10.620 close together already however spaghetti 00:04:10.620 --> 00:04:13.860 Parts have gaps and that allows water to 00:04:13.860 --> 00:04:16.859 come in and bond to the chains and this 00:04:16.859 --> 00:04:19.079 bonding increases the distance between 00:04:19.079 --> 00:04:21.720 the chains and it also weakens the 00:04:21.720 --> 00:04:24.900 intermolecular attraction so now if the 00:04:24.900 --> 00:04:27.120 the force is applied when the fiber is 00:04:27.120 --> 00:04:30.540 wet spaghettis might stretch more than 00:04:30.540 --> 00:04:32.660 what they are capable to recover from 00:04:32.660 --> 00:04:35.460 and that might damage the entire 00:04:35.460 --> 00:04:39.600 structure of the fiber but all of that 00:04:39.600 --> 00:04:43.139 is in theory so let's see if that theory 00:04:43.139 --> 00:04:45.180 applies to real world climbing 00:04:45.180 --> 00:04:47.720 situations 00:04:49.930 --> 00:04:52.440 [Music] 00:04:52.440 --> 00:04:53.880 and if you're wondering who goes 00:04:53.880 --> 00:04:56.820 climbing in the rain well this was my 00:04:56.820 --> 00:04:59.400 birthday and we came up with a brilliant 00:04:59.400 --> 00:05:03.360 idea to climb 34 routes in a day and 00:05:03.360 --> 00:05:07.100 half of the day was raining 00:05:08.160 --> 00:05:10.620 so yeah let's say I have some wet 00:05:10.620 --> 00:05:14.160 experiences but my anecdotal experiences 00:05:14.160 --> 00:05:17.220 are not science and to do proper science 00:05:17.220 --> 00:05:19.800 I needed to go to the place where the 00:05:19.800 --> 00:05:23.470 ropes are properly tested 00:05:23.470 --> 00:05:31.500 [Music] 00:05:31.880 --> 00:05:34.530 [ __ ] there's a lot coming out 00:05:34.530 --> 00:05:36.919 [Music] 00:05:36.919 --> 00:05:40.160 that's a lot 00:05:40.160 --> 00:05:44.340 and before we begin a strange fact I 00:05:44.340 --> 00:05:46.740 checked a lot of user manuals of dynamic 00:05:46.740 --> 00:05:49.740 climbing ropes from various Brands and 00:05:49.740 --> 00:05:52.740 about half of them have various warnings 00:05:52.740 --> 00:05:55.740 about wet drops however the other half 00:05:55.740 --> 00:05:58.020 doesn't mention anything 00:05:58.020 --> 00:06:02.360 hmm okay so here is the question 00:06:02.360 --> 00:06:06.600 will dry rope cause harder catch on 00:06:06.600 --> 00:06:09.060 realistic fault scenario 00:06:09.060 --> 00:06:12.960 well we would say over time yes in the 00:06:12.960 --> 00:06:15.300 beginning probably not 00:06:15.300 --> 00:06:18.180 so you mean on a first fall maybe not 00:06:18.180 --> 00:06:20.940 yes and on the repeated Falls probably 00:06:20.940 --> 00:06:23.639 yes exactly that's not my first 00:06:23.639 --> 00:06:26.300 statement made 00:06:26.300 --> 00:06:29.160 now since we wanted to mimic real world 00:06:29.160 --> 00:06:31.819 scenarios 00:06:31.819 --> 00:06:35.220 and heartfalls rarely exceed 4 00:06:35.220 --> 00:06:38.039 kilonewtons we needed to modify the drop 00:06:38.039 --> 00:06:40.199 tower to produce the forces between 00:06:40.199 --> 00:06:44.340 three and four kilonewtons 00:06:44.340 --> 00:06:50.100 so we overshoot yes we did buy a lot 00:06:50.100 --> 00:06:51.419 [Music] 00:06:51.419 --> 00:06:52.500 okay 00:06:52.500 --> 00:06:55.620 which took a bit of adjustment on this 00:06:55.620 --> 00:06:58.680 old drop tower Mammoth actually has a 00:06:58.680 --> 00:07:00.900 way more advanced drop tower which I 00:07:00.900 --> 00:07:03.060 already had a pleasure to use when we 00:07:03.060 --> 00:07:05.580 were testing the cut resistance of the 00:07:05.580 --> 00:07:08.580 ropes which was super interesting yeah 00:07:08.580 --> 00:07:10.020 that's easier with the other one because 00:07:10.020 --> 00:07:12.300 it works electronically you can put in 00:07:12.300 --> 00:07:13.860 the number where you want to go and then 00:07:13.860 --> 00:07:15.720 it's aligns it by itself but we are not 00:07:15.720 --> 00:07:18.240 allowed to use it not for the water 00:07:18.240 --> 00:07:20.699 it doesn't like water yeah so this one 00:07:20.699 --> 00:07:22.319 doesn't like the water this one also 00:07:22.319 --> 00:07:24.660 doesn't like weather no as soon as these 00:07:24.660 --> 00:07:26.639 get wet rust will appear off the wall 00:07:26.639 --> 00:07:29.280 and then friction has a big influence on 00:07:29.280 --> 00:07:32.220 the yeah but this one we don't use this 00:07:32.220 --> 00:07:34.800 for any development or production 00:07:34.800 --> 00:07:37.259 control yeah that's why we are allowed 00:07:37.259 --> 00:07:40.759 to make it wet exactly 00:07:43.440 --> 00:07:46.440 4.11 00:07:52.540 --> 00:07:56.599 [Music] 00:07:56.599 --> 00:08:00.620 I've heard you're going like oh 00:08:00.620 --> 00:08:02.960 the frustration 00:08:02.960 --> 00:08:05.639 and not only we needed to make sure that 00:08:05.639 --> 00:08:08.280 our samples are between three and four 00:08:08.280 --> 00:08:11.580 kilonewtons but also that each of them 00:08:11.580 --> 00:08:14.639 is as similar as possible how is it 00:08:14.639 --> 00:08:16.979 going we have a method of how we can 00:08:16.979 --> 00:08:19.440 always make the nuts equal later we will 00:08:19.440 --> 00:08:21.740 have fun 00:08:21.740 --> 00:08:24.120 it's a group activity it's a team 00:08:24.120 --> 00:08:26.639 building yes how many samples do we need 00:08:26.639 --> 00:08:29.160 depends on you how many samples do we 00:08:29.160 --> 00:08:29.879 need 00:08:29.879 --> 00:08:31.740 depends on how many people we have 00:08:31.740 --> 00:08:32.799 making them 00:08:32.799 --> 00:08:35.879 [Music] 00:08:36.779 --> 00:08:39.719 so what's going on equal length is equal 00:08:39.719 --> 00:08:42.599 everything is equal having samples as 00:08:42.599 --> 00:08:45.540 similar as possible was actually really 00:08:45.540 --> 00:08:48.380 important because as Adriana said 00:08:48.380 --> 00:08:52.440 textiles is a very tricky and Moody raw 00:08:52.440 --> 00:08:54.839 material to work with Moody it's very 00:08:54.839 --> 00:08:57.600 moody yes so although we cannot control 00:08:57.600 --> 00:09:00.480 the mood of the Rope but in order to 00:09:00.480 --> 00:09:02.279 make the nice statistics that you're 00:09:02.279 --> 00:09:04.800 gonna see later in this video we needed 00:09:04.800 --> 00:09:07.220 to try our best 00:09:07.220 --> 00:09:10.560 too long so basically we are massaging 00:09:10.560 --> 00:09:13.260 back and forth to get uh yeah it's what 00:09:13.260 --> 00:09:16.320 we in German call it Sisyphus are bite 00:09:16.320 --> 00:09:21.420 no we got it you think so if not it's 00:09:21.420 --> 00:09:24.120 time for lunch 00:09:24.120 --> 00:09:27.920 either we succeed or we eat 00:09:27.920 --> 00:09:31.339 everybody click 00:09:32.959 --> 00:09:36.320 three points 00:09:37.100 --> 00:09:39.980 yeah when I was editing this I thought 00:09:39.980 --> 00:09:43.320 wow if you ever wondered how Geeks are 00:09:43.320 --> 00:09:47.040 celebrating life this is a prime example 00:09:47.040 --> 00:09:51.000 anyway the next question was is our test 00:09:51.000 --> 00:09:53.820 setup repeatable meaning will we get 00:09:53.820 --> 00:09:56.279 second fall to be close to the first one 00:09:56.279 --> 00:09:59.700 if we don't get that then we five hours 00:09:59.700 --> 00:10:01.339 more 00:10:01.339 --> 00:10:04.920 don't make a night session work till 00:10:04.920 --> 00:10:06.959 five and then you go bouldering we have 00:10:06.959 --> 00:10:08.399 time limit 00:10:08.399 --> 00:10:10.260 because we need to go bouldering because 00:10:10.260 --> 00:10:13.279 we need to completely 00:10:14.959 --> 00:10:18.959 very nice that's very good very Swiss 00:10:18.959 --> 00:10:21.440 accurate 00:10:21.600 --> 00:10:24.839 our setup was working really well and 00:10:24.839 --> 00:10:28.260 now we needed to collect a lot of data 00:10:28.260 --> 00:10:31.140 this might take if we wait three minutes 00:10:31.140 --> 00:10:33.959 and we do five Falls that's 15 minutes 00:10:33.959 --> 00:10:38.160 just waiting times three times six 00:10:38.160 --> 00:10:39.920 fifteen 00:10:39.920 --> 00:10:43.220 I the eyes are getting bigger and bigger 00:10:43.220 --> 00:10:46.440 and here are the results if we average 00:10:46.440 --> 00:10:49.620 all the samples we get the Baseline of 00:10:49.620 --> 00:10:52.200 how the force is increasing with every 00:10:52.200 --> 00:10:54.899 fall which shows that rope doesn't have 00:10:54.899 --> 00:10:57.660 enough time to fully recover so let's 00:10:57.660 --> 00:10:59.940 see what happens when the ropes are wet 00:10:59.940 --> 00:11:02.459 look how much air is coming out 00:11:02.459 --> 00:11:05.399 all the air is escaping from the Rope 00:11:05.399 --> 00:11:08.040 during the fall the water will be trying 00:11:08.040 --> 00:11:10.860 to escape trying to blast out of Europe 00:11:10.860 --> 00:11:13.680 we wanted to do three different tests 00:11:13.680 --> 00:11:17.100 where the ropes were soaked for 1 5 and 00:11:17.100 --> 00:11:19.980 15 minutes and what was interesting that 00:11:19.980 --> 00:11:22.560 fully submerging the Rope for just one 00:11:22.560 --> 00:11:25.380 minute was enough to almost completely 00:11:25.380 --> 00:11:27.779 saturate the Rope meaning that soaking 00:11:27.779 --> 00:11:32.339 for longer did not add any extra weight 00:11:32.339 --> 00:11:35.279 and after we dropped all the wet samples 00:11:35.279 --> 00:11:38.220 and enjoyed the splashing of the water 00:11:38.220 --> 00:11:39.610 everywhere 00:11:39.610 --> 00:11:43.160 [Laughter] 00:11:43.440 --> 00:11:44.660 oh my God 00:11:44.660 --> 00:11:47.339 here are the results since the 00:11:47.339 --> 00:11:49.019 difference in water absorption was 00:11:49.019 --> 00:11:51.779 minimal the forces were actually very 00:11:51.779 --> 00:11:54.360 similar and if we take the average of 00:11:54.360 --> 00:11:57.240 all the wet samples we can see that the 00:11:57.240 --> 00:12:00.120 first fall was only slightly harder 00:12:00.120 --> 00:12:03.000 however the difference increases with 00:12:03.000 --> 00:12:04.860 the subsequent false 00:12:04.860 --> 00:12:07.260 you know it's combining everything to 00:12:07.260 --> 00:12:11.120 family so statistically significant 00:12:11.120 --> 00:12:15.800 very good today we made a page 00:12:16.279 --> 00:12:20.339 science a little future me Interruption 00:12:20.339 --> 00:12:23.459 since I got more information the peak 00:12:23.459 --> 00:12:25.620 forces that we measured obviously do 00:12:25.620 --> 00:12:27.779 contribute to how hard the catch will be 00:12:27.779 --> 00:12:30.660 for the climber however it's not the 00:12:30.660 --> 00:12:32.700 only Factor 00:12:32.700 --> 00:12:34.980 the big Force to the climber usually 00:12:34.980 --> 00:12:38.220 happens around this moment but even on 00:12:38.220 --> 00:12:40.860 the hardest Falls this moment is not 00:12:40.860 --> 00:12:43.320 hard enough for the human body to be a 00:12:43.320 --> 00:12:46.440 problem what is the problem however is 00:12:46.440 --> 00:12:51.079 how hard the climber will hit the wall 00:12:51.959 --> 00:12:54.240 as I mentioned earlier as the Rope is 00:12:54.240 --> 00:12:56.279 stretching the filaments are rubbing 00:12:56.279 --> 00:12:58.680 against each other which dampens the 00:12:58.680 --> 00:13:01.019 energy and and if the Rope would be able 00:13:01.019 --> 00:13:02.880 to absorb all the energy during the fall 00:13:02.880 --> 00:13:06.420 it would stretch and then stop however 00:13:06.420 --> 00:13:08.940 that's not what happens on hard Falls 00:13:08.940 --> 00:13:11.519 normally the Rope will act like a spring 00:13:11.519 --> 00:13:14.760 it will stretch and then bounce back 00:13:14.760 --> 00:13:18.060 that bounce back usually creates more 00:13:18.060 --> 00:13:20.700 energy going towards the wall and if the 00:13:20.700 --> 00:13:22.860 Rope is wet the filaments are sliding 00:13:22.860 --> 00:13:25.500 easier past each other which reduces the 00:13:25.500 --> 00:13:28.500 dampening effect so the bounce back into 00:13:28.500 --> 00:13:31.620 the wall should be harder so I was 00:13:31.620 --> 00:13:34.560 really curious to test this however this 00:13:34.560 --> 00:13:36.480 requires more advanced testing 00:13:36.480 --> 00:13:39.180 facilities but luckily after I left 00:13:39.180 --> 00:13:41.100 Mahmoud did this test in another 00:13:41.100 --> 00:13:44.100 facility and sent me the results here is 00:13:44.100 --> 00:13:46.500 the force graph where the initial Peak 00:13:46.500 --> 00:13:49.680 was said to be around 3.6 kilonewtons 00:13:49.680 --> 00:13:52.680 and after that we can see how the Rope 00:13:52.680 --> 00:13:55.860 bounces couple of times now in the case 00:13:55.860 --> 00:13:58.560 of the wet rope the peak is only 00:13:58.560 --> 00:14:01.320 slightly higher however the spring 00:14:01.320 --> 00:14:05.519 effect is much higher and this is the 00:14:05.519 --> 00:14:08.180 same graph after five consecutive Falls 00:14:08.180 --> 00:14:12.440 the initial Peak was 23 percent harder 00:14:12.440 --> 00:14:16.680 however the bounce was much harder so 00:14:16.680 --> 00:14:19.800 the spring effect was much bigger 00:14:19.800 --> 00:14:22.740 alright so far we confirmed that wet 00:14:22.740 --> 00:14:26.279 robes might cause harder Falls but also 00:14:26.279 --> 00:14:29.279 according to the theory wet drops might 00:14:29.279 --> 00:14:31.500 lead to some permanent damage to the 00:14:31.500 --> 00:14:32.519 Rope 00:14:32.519 --> 00:14:35.160 let's see so we left the last rope 00:14:35.160 --> 00:14:36.720 hanging overnight 00:14:36.720 --> 00:14:40.139 so technically now it's dry and 00:14:40.139 --> 00:14:43.320 um and rested 00:14:43.320 --> 00:14:46.139 so we dropped this rope once again and 00:14:46.139 --> 00:14:49.199 the fall was harder compared to the 00:14:49.199 --> 00:14:51.899 Baseline which definitely hints that 00:14:51.899 --> 00:14:54.600 there was some permanent damage done to 00:14:54.600 --> 00:14:57.720 the Rope alright so far so good and 00:14:57.720 --> 00:14:59.940 there was two more experiments I wanted 00:14:59.940 --> 00:15:03.060 to make first of all we did all our 00:15:03.060 --> 00:15:05.940 tests on classic ropes so I was curious 00:15:05.940 --> 00:15:08.760 how dried treated ropes would perform on 00:15:08.760 --> 00:15:10.920 the same tests and in case you don't 00:15:10.920 --> 00:15:13.199 know dry treated ropes are soaked in 00:15:13.199 --> 00:15:16.620 certain chemicals that make them more 00:15:16.620 --> 00:15:21.000 water resistant our dry ropes we add the 00:15:21.000 --> 00:15:24.060 chemical first to the core so to the 00:15:24.060 --> 00:15:26.519 strands they get a drop application then 00:15:26.519 --> 00:15:28.980 we braid the rope together and then we 00:15:28.980 --> 00:15:31.620 submerge it in a chemical bath and we 00:15:31.620 --> 00:15:34.320 take it out and we dry it and then you 00:15:34.320 --> 00:15:36.600 have a dry roll so basically core is 00:15:36.600 --> 00:15:38.880 separately submerged into chemical and 00:15:38.880 --> 00:15:42.060 then entire rope now the cooler get a 00:15:42.060 --> 00:15:44.220 drop application you need 00:15:44.220 --> 00:15:46.920 just a little drop every every couple 00:15:46.920 --> 00:15:50.760 seconds is enough to make it uh water 00:15:50.760 --> 00:15:53.040 resistant interesting and then the 00:15:53.040 --> 00:15:55.380 entire rope goes into the thing yeah 00:15:55.380 --> 00:15:58.019 when it's finished so let's see how good 00:15:58.019 --> 00:16:01.500 that treatment is in practice 00:16:01.500 --> 00:16:06.120 [Music] 00:16:06.120 --> 00:16:08.519 so at first we did a lot of drops 00:16:08.519 --> 00:16:11.040 without water and that allowed us to 00:16:11.040 --> 00:16:13.680 compare treated tropes with classic ones 00:16:13.680 --> 00:16:15.899 and it was good to see that treatment 00:16:15.899 --> 00:16:18.899 has no negative effect when the ropes 00:16:18.899 --> 00:16:21.600 are dry so let's see if it has a 00:16:21.600 --> 00:16:23.639 positive effect when the ropes are wet 00:16:23.639 --> 00:16:27.000 number two number two you want to get 00:16:27.000 --> 00:16:28.860 the shot of how 00:16:28.860 --> 00:16:32.940 treated robes Stone bubble or duvet 00:16:32.940 --> 00:16:36.779 bubble wait maybe I don't want to 00:16:36.779 --> 00:16:39.180 look it doesn't bubble as much as the 00:16:39.180 --> 00:16:40.680 other one 00:16:40.680 --> 00:16:43.620 what if you squeeze it a bit but no 00:16:43.620 --> 00:16:45.740 squeezing 00:16:45.740 --> 00:16:48.720 and yes dry treated ropes absorbed 00:16:48.720 --> 00:16:51.079 significantly less water 00:16:51.079 --> 00:16:54.779 ah I know what can be the problem that 00:16:54.779 --> 00:16:57.899 ends I see bubbles coming from the ends 00:16:57.899 --> 00:17:00.000 a little bit although we sealed the ends 00:17:00.000 --> 00:17:02.339 but most of the bubbles are coming from 00:17:02.339 --> 00:17:04.980 the tip of the Rope maybe I'm gonna keep 00:17:04.980 --> 00:17:07.740 that tip just a little bit out 00:17:07.740 --> 00:17:09.720 yeah I mean you can always have like 00:17:09.720 --> 00:17:12.600 little holes where it could get in with 00:17:12.600 --> 00:17:14.819 these kind of things if it's not seared 00:17:14.819 --> 00:17:16.559 well in the end you have like a 00:17:16.559 --> 00:17:18.600 capillary effect of that the water 00:17:18.600 --> 00:17:22.199 traveled along the fiber okay let's see 00:17:22.199 --> 00:17:25.100 I'm super curious 00:17:25.630 --> 00:17:27.480 [Music] 00:17:27.480 --> 00:17:30.780 wow there was no splash of water 00:17:30.780 --> 00:17:32.940 and here is the treated rope that we 00:17:32.940 --> 00:17:35.700 soaked for 15 minutes as you can see 00:17:35.700 --> 00:17:37.919 there is still barely any water coming 00:17:37.919 --> 00:17:40.320 out of it and if we would compare this 00:17:40.320 --> 00:17:43.200 to the classic ropes the difference is 00:17:43.200 --> 00:17:46.039 huge 00:17:48.960 --> 00:17:53.160 we're still here collecting the data 00:17:53.160 --> 00:17:56.220 Never Ending Story how are we feeling to 00:17:56.220 --> 00:17:57.600 you 00:17:57.600 --> 00:17:58.380 yeah 00:17:58.380 --> 00:18:02.039 here stopped for climbing and when it 00:18:02.039 --> 00:18:04.200 comes to the treated tropes soaking them 00:18:04.200 --> 00:18:07.260 up to 5 minutes showed no increase in 00:18:07.260 --> 00:18:10.140 forces however soaking for 15 minutes 00:18:10.140 --> 00:18:13.919 already was worse but not as bad 00:18:13.919 --> 00:18:17.160 compared to the classic ropes so dried 00:18:17.160 --> 00:18:19.260 treated ropes unsurprisingly were 00:18:19.260 --> 00:18:21.120 performing better in wet conditions 00:18:21.120 --> 00:18:23.820 however I know that many of you myself 00:18:23.820 --> 00:18:27.299 included had a question how long does 00:18:27.299 --> 00:18:30.360 dry treatment stay effective does it 00:18:30.360 --> 00:18:34.140 wear off so this is a used truck that I 00:18:34.140 --> 00:18:37.620 used for about a year actively almost 00:18:37.620 --> 00:18:40.140 climbing every second or every third day 00:18:40.140 --> 00:18:43.260 so we could get a sample of this 00:18:43.260 --> 00:18:45.900 yeah that's it this orange rope that I 00:18:45.900 --> 00:18:47.700 brought is actually perfect for our 00:18:47.700 --> 00:18:50.039 comparisons because it's exactly the 00:18:50.039 --> 00:18:52.440 same rope as the one we already tested 00:18:52.440 --> 00:18:55.260 the only difference is the color 00:18:55.260 --> 00:18:57.780 at first we did the test without water 00:18:57.780 --> 00:19:00.360 so that we could compare how much 00:19:00.360 --> 00:19:03.120 stiffer old rope gets compared to the 00:19:03.120 --> 00:19:05.460 new one and to my surprise the 00:19:05.460 --> 00:19:08.160 difference was very minimal one note 00:19:08.160 --> 00:19:10.500 here is that we selected the test sample 00:19:10.500 --> 00:19:12.660 from the middle of the rope that part of 00:19:12.660 --> 00:19:15.240 the Rope usually is the least damaged 00:19:15.240 --> 00:19:17.880 but that's good to know that if your 00:19:17.880 --> 00:19:19.620 ends of the Rope are damaged and you 00:19:19.620 --> 00:19:21.900 chop them off the rest of the Rope 00:19:21.900 --> 00:19:23.660 should perform really well 00:19:23.660 --> 00:19:25.679 [Music] 00:19:25.679 --> 00:19:27.140 yeah 00:19:27.140 --> 00:19:30.660 oh it's bubbling much more than new 00:19:30.660 --> 00:19:34.140 ropes yeah and yes old rope absorbed 00:19:34.140 --> 00:19:36.780 more water however it still performed 00:19:36.780 --> 00:19:38.520 better compared to the classic rope 00:19:38.520 --> 00:19:42.120 being new treated rope soaked for five 00:19:42.120 --> 00:19:44.220 minutes let's see how it how well it 00:19:44.220 --> 00:19:44.650 served 00:19:44.650 --> 00:19:47.250 [Laughter] 00:19:47.250 --> 00:19:53.249 [Music] 00:19:53.580 --> 00:19:56.700 we actually washed the Rope but you can 00:19:56.700 --> 00:19:59.580 still see that the water which comes out 00:19:59.580 --> 00:20:00.539 of it 00:20:00.539 --> 00:20:03.480 is still grayish a little bit 00:20:03.480 --> 00:20:06.000 coming out does it hurt so you want to 00:20:06.000 --> 00:20:07.520 blend my washing machine 00:20:07.520 --> 00:20:10.320 and this is what happened with the wet 00:20:10.320 --> 00:20:12.660 old rope the first fall was actually 00:20:12.660 --> 00:20:16.140 identical which is very nice and then 00:20:16.140 --> 00:20:18.360 the subsequent folds again had an 00:20:18.360 --> 00:20:20.520 increase in forces 00:20:20.520 --> 00:20:23.400 and if we would compare all wet drops 00:20:23.400 --> 00:20:26.100 this is what we get 00:20:26.100 --> 00:20:28.380 and the only thing missing here that we 00:20:28.380 --> 00:20:31.260 had no time to do would be to test old 00:20:31.260 --> 00:20:33.600 classic robes 00:20:33.600 --> 00:20:36.960 so yes treated robes do lose their water 00:20:36.960 --> 00:20:40.440 repellent magic Over time however they 00:20:40.440 --> 00:20:42.360 still perform better compared to the 00:20:42.360 --> 00:20:46.140 classic ropes however there is still one 00:20:46.140 --> 00:20:48.000 very interesting thing to know let's 00:20:48.000 --> 00:20:50.100 look into water absorption graph again 00:20:50.100 --> 00:20:52.260 notice that classic crops are almost 00:20:52.260 --> 00:20:54.120 fully saturated after five minutes 00:20:54.120 --> 00:20:56.880 however treated tropes even after 15 00:20:56.880 --> 00:20:59.880 minutes still have a trend up so then 00:20:59.880 --> 00:21:01.919 the question is what's the full 00:21:01.919 --> 00:21:05.039 saturation point of treated ropes so I 00:21:05.039 --> 00:21:07.500 asked Adriana to do these tests and here 00:21:07.500 --> 00:21:10.140 are the results turns out that all the 00:21:10.140 --> 00:21:12.360 ropes were trending to the same around 00:21:12.360 --> 00:21:16.020 40 percent level so that means even if 00:21:16.020 --> 00:21:18.179 your rope is dry treated and you put it 00:21:18.179 --> 00:21:20.460 under water and you leave it there for 00:21:20.460 --> 00:21:21.600 long enough 00:21:21.600 --> 00:21:23.700 I don't know why would you do that but 00:21:23.700 --> 00:21:26.280 if you would do that eventually all of 00:21:26.280 --> 00:21:28.520 these tens of thousands of tiny 00:21:28.520 --> 00:21:31.320 filaments in the Rope would act as 00:21:31.320 --> 00:21:34.080 capillaries and the water would find its 00:21:34.080 --> 00:21:36.679 way in and it would probably perform 00:21:36.679 --> 00:21:41.299 similar to the Rope being not treated 00:21:43.919 --> 00:21:47.580 now before some of you will become 00:21:47.580 --> 00:21:49.799 hydrophobic let me add a couple of 00:21:49.799 --> 00:21:52.559 things yes wet ropes are significantly 00:21:52.559 --> 00:21:55.020 heavier which sucks when you're climbing 00:21:55.020 --> 00:21:57.900 and they might wear down quicker both 00:21:57.900 --> 00:22:01.620 from false and from abrasion which sucks 00:22:01.620 --> 00:22:04.020 to your wallet also there is a theory 00:22:04.020 --> 00:22:07.320 that They are thicker with swell from 00:22:07.320 --> 00:22:08.400 water 00:22:08.400 --> 00:22:10.460 let's see 00:22:10.460 --> 00:22:14.039 I soaked this rope for a few hours this 00:22:14.039 --> 00:22:17.520 is supposed to be 9.8 rope and I'm 00:22:17.520 --> 00:22:20.059 measuring 00:22:21.260 --> 00:22:26.419 11.3 let's see the wet spot 00:22:31.380 --> 00:22:32.520 okay 00:22:32.520 --> 00:22:34.740 so I don't see any difference at least 00:22:34.740 --> 00:22:36.840 on this rope which is worn out and it's 00:22:36.840 --> 00:22:39.600 already thicker when it's nominal value 00:22:39.600 --> 00:22:42.840 yeah so I didn't want to leave my fellow 00:22:42.840 --> 00:22:45.360 climbers hanging like that so the next 00:22:45.360 --> 00:22:47.640 day I took a bunch of different used 00:22:47.640 --> 00:22:51.240 ropes soaked them and measured the 00:22:51.240 --> 00:22:53.640 thickness and what I found out is that 00:22:53.640 --> 00:22:56.460 indeed some of the robes did got thicker 00:22:56.460 --> 00:22:58.740 like the green decathlon rope for 00:22:58.740 --> 00:23:01.559 example however other ropes did not 00:23:01.559 --> 00:23:04.919 change in diameter next I tested how 00:23:04.919 --> 00:23:07.380 smooth the ropes run through belaying 00:23:07.380 --> 00:23:10.140 devices and here my findings were mixed 00:23:10.140 --> 00:23:13.320 again some of the ropes got sticky they 00:23:13.320 --> 00:23:15.600 became harder to pull through belaying 00:23:15.600 --> 00:23:18.600 device and more likely to lock the blank 00:23:18.600 --> 00:23:21.539 device however other ropes got the 00:23:21.539 --> 00:23:23.700 opposite result they became more 00:23:23.700 --> 00:23:26.580 slippery as if water would lubricate the 00:23:26.580 --> 00:23:29.460 billeting device so yes the laying does 00:23:29.460 --> 00:23:32.159 change with water however it's unclear 00:23:32.159 --> 00:23:34.919 how how the change will affect Europe 00:23:34.919 --> 00:23:38.159 and about those other things well 00:23:38.159 --> 00:23:40.620 honestly it's unlikely that you will 00:23:40.620 --> 00:23:42.659 climb in such a wet conditions long 00:23:42.659 --> 00:23:45.419 enough to even have those problems so if 00:23:45.419 --> 00:23:49.559 your rope got a bit wet well try it but 00:23:49.559 --> 00:23:53.340 if I would be going to cold wet ice 00:23:53.340 --> 00:23:57.600 climbing places where people die 00:23:57.600 --> 00:24:00.000 um yeah maybe having a treated rope 00:24:00.000 --> 00:24:02.340 reduces the chance of dying this is so 00:24:02.340 --> 00:24:05.159 hard she put I mean I don't know just 00:24:05.159 --> 00:24:07.980 like being in a snowy or icy environment 00:24:07.980 --> 00:24:10.140 it's recommended to have the dry 00:24:10.140 --> 00:24:11.700 treatment because it's just an extra 00:24:11.700 --> 00:24:14.280 safety buffer yeah there is one route in 00:24:14.280 --> 00:24:16.980 Spain which crosses a waterfall in 00:24:16.980 --> 00:24:18.120 multi-pitch 00:24:18.120 --> 00:24:20.400 yeah I mean also if you're climb in very 00:24:20.400 --> 00:24:23.340 humid conditions it's Thailand 00:24:23.340 --> 00:24:25.919 we go there it's really humid and dry 00:24:25.919 --> 00:24:27.919 rope makes sense 00:24:27.919 --> 00:24:31.799 interesting so the little details shall 00:24:31.799 --> 00:24:33.360 we go to Thailand to do some science 00:24:33.360 --> 00:24:36.380 research trip 00:24:36.539 --> 00:24:38.640 all right if you found this video 00:24:38.640 --> 00:24:41.039 interesting I made the playlist for you 00:24:41.039 --> 00:24:42.840 where I was nerding with Mammoth 00:24:42.840 --> 00:24:45.240 Engineers on different topics very 00:24:45.240 --> 00:24:47.400 interesting topics so thank you Mahmoud 00:24:47.400 --> 00:24:49.320 for letting me to periodically come over 00:24:49.320 --> 00:24:51.659 and play with your toys and thank you 00:24:51.659 --> 00:24:54.240 Adriana for all their rope chemistry 00:24:54.240 --> 00:24:58.440 explanations and thank you for watching 00:24:58.440 --> 00:25:01.580 you in the next one