[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.12,0:00:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is a dynamic climbing rope one can Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.60,0:00:07.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take hundreds of these massive Falls and Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.26,0:00:10.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it will still provide a soft Landing for Dialogue: 0,0:00:10.98,0:00:13.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber Now Let's ignore the blue Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.50,0:00:16.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,protective shift and pull out the core Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.86,0:00:19.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this white strands is the core of the Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.98,0:00:22.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope which is responsible for majority Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.26,0:00:25.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of rope's strength if I would untwist Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.56,0:00:28.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the core strand eventually I would get Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.86,0:00:31.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to this thing which is called a Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.86,0:00:34.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multi-filament and if I would dig deeper Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.92,0:00:38.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and try to separate the smallest part of Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.22,0:00:41.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope I would get to a single Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.28,0:00:46.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,filament which I can barely see so this Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.98,0:00:49.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is a single filament Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.74,0:00:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this filament is about 10 times Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.44,0:00:54.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thinner than the human hair and there is Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.72,0:00:58.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about 50 to 80 Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.08,0:01:01.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,000 of them in a single rope and all of Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.26,0:01:03.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,them run across entire length of the Dialogue: 0,0:01:03.78,0:01:06.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope now during the fall this filaments Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.66,0:01:10.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stretch but also they slide past each Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.02,0:01:12.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other which creates friction and this Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.78,0:01:15.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,friction helps to dampen the impact Dialogue: 0,0:01:15.24,0:01:18.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however if we would make a rope wet Dialogue: 0,0:01:18.06,0:01:20.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,water on the surface of the filaments Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.70,0:01:22.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would act as a lubricant this would Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.98,0:01:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,allow the filaments to slide easier past Dialogue: 0,0:01:25.68,0:01:27.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,each other which would reduce the Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.72,0:01:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dampening effect also you can probably Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.48,0:01:33.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,imagine that as I want to stretch the Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.00,0:01:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope out it needs to shrink in diameter Dialogue: 0,0:01:36.00,0:01:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however if the Rope is full of water in Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.12,0:01:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,order to shrink in diameter first it Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.24,0:01:45.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,needs to spit the water out however if Dialogue: 0,0:01:45.60,0:01:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the impact is hard enough the water Dialogue: 0,0:01:48.00,0:01:51.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cannot Escape faster it's like when you Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.36,0:01:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belly flop on the water and the water Dialogue: 0,0:01:53.52,0:01:55.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't have enough time to flow around Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.56,0:01:58.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your body and things get even more Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.68,0:02:01.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting from here if we would look Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.14,0:02:04.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deeper deep deep inside the filament we Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.62,0:02:07.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would find this but don't worry the only Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.80,0:02:09.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thing you need to know that this is a Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.54,0:02:12.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,monomer which joins together to form a Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.54,0:02:15.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,polymer chain and this chain can be very Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.54,0:02:19.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,long very very long which is really Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.50,0:02:23.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,great for making filament fiber and this Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.10,0:02:25.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is where things get interesting notice Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.26,0:02:27.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that some parts of this fiber are Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.90,0:02:31.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,arranged neatly in order these parts are Dialogue: 0,0:02:31.14,0:02:34.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called crystalline and they have polymer Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.14,0:02:37.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chains packed so close together that Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.20,0:02:39.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they form an attraction for each other Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.54,0:02:42.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this happens because hydrogen from Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.42,0:02:45.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one chain really likes the oxygen from Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.42,0:02:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the other chain so all of this makes Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.76,0:02:50.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these parts really strong with which is Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.52,0:02:52.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,great for the strength of the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.14,0:02:55.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however it also makes these parts really Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.56,0:02:58.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stiff which is not so great when you Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.38,0:03:01.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,want your dynamic rope to stretch and Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.32,0:03:03.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's what these other parts that look Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.30,0:03:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like spaghettis are four they are called Dialogue: 0,0:03:06.00,0:03:08.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,amorphous and they have much bigger gaps Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.76,0:03:11.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,between the chains which allows them to Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.34,0:03:12.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stretch Dialogue: 0,0:03:12.36,0:03:14.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so when the force is applied on the Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.34,0:03:17.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fiber these spaghetti Parts stretch and Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.64,0:03:19.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the crystalline Parts provide the Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.68,0:03:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strength you can probably imagine that a Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.80,0:03:24.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very stiff rope Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.90,0:03:27.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wouldn't be great for climbing but Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.96,0:03:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,neither the Rope which would stretch too Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.00,0:03:32.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much because when I fall I want to land Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.60,0:03:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not on the ground so by controlling the Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.00,0:03:38.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ratio between spaghettis and crystalline Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.46,0:03:41.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Parts rope manufacturers can create this Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.82,0:03:44.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,great strength but at the same time Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.70,0:03:48.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,perfect Force absorption which is quite Dialogue: 0,0:03:48.30,0:03:50.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impressive now remember I said that Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.76,0:03:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hydrogen really likes the oxygen guess Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.76,0:03:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what else has a lot of hydrogen and Dialogue: 0,0:03:56.28,0:04:00.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oxygen that's right water good news is Dialogue: 0,0:04:00.18,0:04:02.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that water cannot really penetrate into Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.64,0:04:04.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the crystalline parts of the fiber Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.86,0:04:07.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because the chains there are very packed Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.62,0:04:10.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close together already however spaghetti Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.62,0:04:13.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Parts have gaps and that allows water to Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.86,0:04:16.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come in and bond to the chains and this Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.86,0:04:19.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bonding increases the distance between Dialogue: 0,0:04:19.08,0:04:21.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the chains and it also weakens the Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.72,0:04:24.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,intermolecular attraction so now if the Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.90,0:04:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the force is applied when the fiber is Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.12,0:04:30.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wet spaghettis might stretch more than Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.54,0:04:32.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what they are capable to recover from Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.66,0:04:35.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that might damage the entire Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.46,0:04:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,structure of the fiber but all of that Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.60,0:04:43.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is in theory so let's see if that theory Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.14,0:04:45.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,applies to real world climbing Dialogue: 0,0:04:45.18,0:04:47.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,situations Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.93,0:04:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.44,0:04:53.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if you're wondering who goes Dialogue: 0,0:04:53.88,0:04:56.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing in the rain well this was my Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.82,0:04:59.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,birthday and we came up with a brilliant Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.40,0:05:03.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,idea to climb 34 routes in a day and Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.36,0:05:07.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,half of the day was raining Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.16,0:05:10.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so yeah let's say I have some wet Dialogue: 0,0:05:10.62,0:05:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiences but my anecdotal experiences Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.16,0:05:17.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are not science and to do proper science Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.22,0:05:19.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I needed to go to the place where the Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.80,0:05:23.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes are properly tested Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.47,0:05:31.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.88,0:05:34.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[ __ ] there's a lot coming out Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.53,0:05:36.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.92,0:05:40.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's a lot Dialogue: 0,0:05:40.16,0:05:44.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and before we begin a strange fact I Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.34,0:05:46.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,checked a lot of user manuals of dynamic Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.74,0:05:49.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing ropes from various Brands and Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.74,0:05:52.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about half of them have various warnings Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.74,0:05:55.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about wet drops however the other half Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.74,0:05:58.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't mention anything Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.02,0:06:02.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hmm okay so here is the question Dialogue: 0,0:06:02.36,0:06:06.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will dry rope cause harder catch on Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.60,0:06:09.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,realistic fault scenario Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.06,0:06:12.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well we would say over time yes in the Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.96,0:06:15.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginning probably not Dialogue: 0,0:06:15.30,0:06:18.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you mean on a first fall maybe not Dialogue: 0,0:06:18.18,0:06:20.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes and on the repeated Falls probably Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.94,0:06:23.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes exactly that's not my first Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.64,0:06:26.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,statement made Dialogue: 0,0:06:26.30,0:06:29.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now since we wanted to mimic real world Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.16,0:06:31.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scenarios Dialogue: 0,0:06:31.82,0:06:35.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and heartfalls rarely exceed 4 Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.22,0:06:38.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kilonewtons we needed to modify the drop Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.04,0:06:40.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tower to produce the forces between Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.20,0:06:44.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three and four kilonewtons Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.34,0:06:50.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we overshoot yes we did buy a lot Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.10,0:06:51.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:06:51.42,0:06:52.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.50,0:06:55.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which took a bit of adjustment on this Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.62,0:06:58.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,old drop tower Mammoth actually has a Dialogue: 0,0:06:58.68,0:07:00.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way more advanced drop tower which I Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.90,0:07:03.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already had a pleasure to use when we Dialogue: 0,0:07:03.06,0:07:05.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,were testing the cut resistance of the Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.58,0:07:08.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes which was super interesting yeah Dialogue: 0,0:07:08.58,0:07:10.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's easier with the other one because Dialogue: 0,0:07:10.02,0:07:12.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it works electronically you can put in Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.30,0:07:13.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the number where you want to go and then Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.86,0:07:15.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's aligns it by itself but we are not Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.72,0:07:18.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,allowed to use it not for the water Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.24,0:07:20.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it doesn't like water yeah so this one Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.70,0:07:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't like the water this one also Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.32,0:07:24.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't like weather no as soon as these Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.66,0:07:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get wet rust will appear off the wall Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.64,0:07:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then friction has a big influence on Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.28,0:07:32.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the yeah but this one we don't use this Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.22,0:07:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for any development or production Dialogue: 0,0:07:34.80,0:07:37.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,control yeah that's why we are allowed Dialogue: 0,0:07:37.26,0:07:40.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to make it wet exactly Dialogue: 0,0:07:43.44,0:07:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,4.11 Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.54,0:07:56.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.60,0:08:00.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I've heard you're going like oh Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.62,0:08:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the frustration Dialogue: 0,0:08:02.96,0:08:05.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and not only we needed to make sure that Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.64,0:08:08.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,our samples are between three and four Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.28,0:08:11.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kilonewtons but also that each of them Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.58,0:08:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is as similar as possible how is it Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.64,0:08:16.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going we have a method of how we can Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.98,0:08:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,always make the nuts equal later we will Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.44,0:08:21.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have fun Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.74,0:08:24.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a group activity it's a team Dialogue: 0,0:08:24.12,0:08:26.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,building yes how many samples do we need Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.64,0:08:29.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depends on you how many samples do we Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.16,0:08:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.88,0:08:31.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depends on how many people we have Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.74,0:08:32.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,making them Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.80,0:08:35.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.78,0:08:39.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so what's going on equal length is equal Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.72,0:08:42.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everything is equal having samples as Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.60,0:08:45.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar as possible was actually really Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.54,0:08:48.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,important because as Adriana said Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.38,0:08:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,textiles is a very tricky and Moody raw Dialogue: 0,0:08:52.44,0:08:54.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,material to work with Moody it's very Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.84,0:08:57.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,moody yes so although we cannot control Dialogue: 0,0:08:57.60,0:09:00.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the mood of the Rope but in order to Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.48,0:09:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make the nice statistics that you're Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.28,0:09:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gonna see later in this video we needed Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.80,0:09:07.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to try our best Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.22,0:09:10.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,too long so basically we are massaging Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.56,0:09:13.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back and forth to get uh yeah it's what Dialogue: 0,0:09:13.26,0:09:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we in German call it Sisyphus are bite Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.32,0:09:21.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no we got it you think so if not it's Dialogue: 0,0:09:21.42,0:09:24.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time for lunch Dialogue: 0,0:09:24.12,0:09:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,either we succeed or we eat Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.92,0:09:31.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everybody click Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.96,0:09:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three points Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.10,0:09:39.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah when I was editing this I thought Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.98,0:09:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow if you ever wondered how Geeks are Dialogue: 0,0:09:43.32,0:09:47.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,celebrating life this is a prime example Dialogue: 0,0:09:47.04,0:09:51.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anyway the next question was is our test Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.00,0:09:53.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,setup repeatable meaning will we get Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.82,0:09:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,second fall to be close to the first one Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.28,0:09:59.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if we don't get that then we five hours Dialogue: 0,0:09:59.70,0:10:01.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.34,0:10:04.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,don't make a night session work till Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.92,0:10:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,five and then you go bouldering we have Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.96,0:10:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time limit Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.40,0:10:10.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because we need to go bouldering because Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.26,0:10:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we need to completely Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.96,0:10:18.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very nice that's very good very Swiss Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.96,0:10:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,accurate Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.60,0:10:24.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,our setup was working really well and Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.84,0:10:28.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now we needed to collect a lot of data Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.26,0:10:31.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this might take if we wait three minutes Dialogue: 0,0:10:31.14,0:10:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we do five Falls that's 15 minutes Dialogue: 0,0:10:33.96,0:10:38.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just waiting times three times six Dialogue: 0,0:10:38.16,0:10:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fifteen Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.92,0:10:43.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I the eyes are getting bigger and bigger Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.22,0:10:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and here are the results if we average Dialogue: 0,0:10:46.44,0:10:49.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all the samples we get the Baseline of Dialogue: 0,0:10:49.62,0:10:52.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how the force is increasing with every Dialogue: 0,0:10:52.20,0:10:54.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall which shows that rope doesn't have Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.90,0:10:57.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough time to fully recover so let's Dialogue: 0,0:10:57.66,0:10:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see what happens when the ropes are wet Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.94,0:11:02.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,look how much air is coming out Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.46,0:11:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all the air is escaping from the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:11:05.40,0:11:08.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,during the fall the water will be trying Dialogue: 0,0:11:08.04,0:11:10.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to escape trying to blast out of Europe Dialogue: 0,0:11:10.86,0:11:13.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we wanted to do three different tests Dialogue: 0,0:11:13.68,0:11:17.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the ropes were soaked for 1 5 and Dialogue: 0,0:11:17.10,0:11:19.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,15 minutes and what was interesting that Dialogue: 0,0:11:19.98,0:11:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fully submerging the Rope for just one Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.56,0:11:25.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minute was enough to almost completely Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.38,0:11:27.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,saturate the Rope meaning that soaking Dialogue: 0,0:11:27.78,0:11:32.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for longer did not add any extra weight Dialogue: 0,0:11:32.34,0:11:35.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and after we dropped all the wet samples Dialogue: 0,0:11:35.28,0:11:38.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and enjoyed the splashing of the water Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.22,0:11:39.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,everywhere Dialogue: 0,0:11:39.61,0:11:43.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Laughter] Dialogue: 0,0:11:43.44,0:11:44.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh my God Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.66,0:11:47.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here are the results since the Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.34,0:11:49.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference in water absorption was Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.02,0:11:51.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minimal the forces were actually very Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.78,0:11:54.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar and if we take the average of Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.36,0:11:57.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all the wet samples we can see that the Dialogue: 0,0:11:57.24,0:12:00.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first fall was only slightly harder Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.12,0:12:03.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however the difference increases with Dialogue: 0,0:12:03.00,0:12:04.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the subsequent false Dialogue: 0,0:12:04.86,0:12:07.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you know it's combining everything to Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.26,0:12:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,family so statistically significant Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.12,0:12:15.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very good today we made a page Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.28,0:12:20.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,science a little future me Interruption Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.34,0:12:23.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since I got more information the peak Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.46,0:12:25.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forces that we measured obviously do Dialogue: 0,0:12:25.62,0:12:27.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,contribute to how hard the catch will be Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.78,0:12:30.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for the climber however it's not the Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.66,0:12:32.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only Factor Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.70,0:12:34.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the big Force to the climber usually Dialogue: 0,0:12:34.98,0:12:38.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens around this moment but even on Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.22,0:12:40.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the hardest Falls this moment is not Dialogue: 0,0:12:40.86,0:12:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard enough for the human body to be a Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.32,0:12:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problem what is the problem however is Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.44,0:12:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how hard the climber will hit the wall Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.96,0:12:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as I mentioned earlier as the Rope is Dialogue: 0,0:12:54.24,0:12:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stretching the filaments are rubbing Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.28,0:12:58.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,against each other which dampens the Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.68,0:13:01.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,energy and and if the Rope would be able Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.02,0:13:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to absorb all the energy during the fall Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.88,0:13:06.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it would stretch and then stop however Dialogue: 0,0:13:06.42,0:13:08.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's not what happens on hard Falls Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.94,0:13:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,normally the Rope will act like a spring Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.52,0:13:14.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it will stretch and then bounce back Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.76,0:13:18.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that bounce back usually creates more Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.06,0:13:20.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,energy going towards the wall and if the Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.70,0:13:22.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope is wet the filaments are sliding Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.86,0:13:25.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easier past each other which reduces the Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.50,0:13:28.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dampening effect so the bounce back into Dialogue: 0,0:13:28.50,0:13:31.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall should be harder so I was Dialogue: 0,0:13:31.62,0:13:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really curious to test this however this Dialogue: 0,0:13:34.56,0:13:36.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,requires more advanced testing Dialogue: 0,0:13:36.48,0:13:39.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,facilities but luckily after I left Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.18,0:13:41.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Mahmoud did this test in another Dialogue: 0,0:13:41.10,0:13:44.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,facility and sent me the results here is Dialogue: 0,0:13:44.10,0:13:46.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the force graph where the initial Peak Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.50,0:13:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was said to be around 3.6 kilonewtons Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.68,0:13:52.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and after that we can see how the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:13:52.68,0:13:55.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bounces couple of times now in the case Dialogue: 0,0:13:55.86,0:13:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the wet rope the peak is only Dialogue: 0,0:13:58.56,0:14:01.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slightly higher however the spring Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.32,0:14:05.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,effect is much higher and this is the Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.52,0:14:08.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same graph after five consecutive Falls Dialogue: 0,0:14:08.18,0:14:12.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the initial Peak was 23 percent harder Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.44,0:14:16.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however the bounce was much harder so Dialogue: 0,0:14:16.68,0:14:19.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the spring effect was much bigger Dialogue: 0,0:14:19.80,0:14:22.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,alright so far we confirmed that wet Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.74,0:14:26.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,robes might cause harder Falls but also Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.28,0:14:29.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,according to the theory wet drops might Dialogue: 0,0:14:29.28,0:14:31.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lead to some permanent damage to the Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.50,0:14:32.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:32.52,0:14:35.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's see so we left the last rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:35.16,0:14:36.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hanging overnight Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.72,0:14:40.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so technically now it's dry and Dialogue: 0,0:14:40.14,0:14:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,um and rested Dialogue: 0,0:14:43.32,0:14:46.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we dropped this rope once again and Dialogue: 0,0:14:46.14,0:14:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall was harder compared to the Dialogue: 0,0:14:49.20,0:14:51.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Baseline which definitely hints that Dialogue: 0,0:14:51.90,0:14:54.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there was some permanent damage done to Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.60,0:14:57.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope alright so far so good and Dialogue: 0,0:14:57.72,0:14:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there was two more experiments I wanted Dialogue: 0,0:14:59.94,0:15:03.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to make first of all we did all our Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.06,0:15:05.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tests on classic ropes so I was curious Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.94,0:15:08.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how dried treated ropes would perform on Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.76,0:15:10.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the same tests and in case you don't Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.92,0:15:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know dry treated ropes are soaked in Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.20,0:15:16.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,certain chemicals that make them more Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.62,0:15:21.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,water resistant our dry ropes we add the Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.00,0:15:24.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chemical first to the core so to the Dialogue: 0,0:15:24.06,0:15:26.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strands they get a drop application then Dialogue: 0,0:15:26.52,0:15:28.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we braid the rope together and then we Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.98,0:15:31.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,submerge it in a chemical bath and we Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.62,0:15:34.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take it out and we dry it and then you Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.32,0:15:36.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have a dry roll so basically core is Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.60,0:15:38.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,separately submerged into chemical and Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.88,0:15:42.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then entire rope now the cooler get a Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.06,0:15:44.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,drop application you need Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.22,0:15:46.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just a little drop every every couple Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.92,0:15:50.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,seconds is enough to make it uh water Dialogue: 0,0:15:50.76,0:15:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,resistant interesting and then the Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.04,0:15:55.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,entire rope goes into the thing yeah Dialogue: 0,0:15:55.38,0:15:58.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when it's finished so let's see how good Dialogue: 0,0:15:58.02,0:16:01.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that treatment is in practice Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.50,0:16:06.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:16:06.12,0:16:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so at first we did a lot of drops Dialogue: 0,0:16:08.52,0:16:11.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,without water and that allowed us to Dialogue: 0,0:16:11.04,0:16:13.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare treated tropes with classic ones Dialogue: 0,0:16:13.68,0:16:15.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it was good to see that treatment Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.90,0:16:18.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has no negative effect when the ropes Dialogue: 0,0:16:18.90,0:16:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are dry so let's see if it has a Dialogue: 0,0:16:21.60,0:16:23.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,positive effect when the ropes are wet Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.64,0:16:27.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,number two number two you want to get Dialogue: 0,0:16:27.00,0:16:28.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the shot of how Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.86,0:16:32.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,treated robes Stone bubble or duvet Dialogue: 0,0:16:32.94,0:16:36.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bubble wait maybe I don't want to Dialogue: 0,0:16:36.78,0:16:39.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,look it doesn't bubble as much as the Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.18,0:16:40.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other one Dialogue: 0,0:16:40.68,0:16:43.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what if you squeeze it a bit but no Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.62,0:16:45.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,squeezing Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.74,0:16:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and yes dry treated ropes absorbed Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.72,0:16:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,significantly less water Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.08,0:16:54.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ah I know what can be the problem that Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.78,0:16:57.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ends I see bubbles coming from the ends Dialogue: 0,0:16:57.90,0:17:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a little bit although we sealed the ends Dialogue: 0,0:17:00.00,0:17:02.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but most of the bubbles are coming from Dialogue: 0,0:17:02.34,0:17:04.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the tip of the Rope maybe I'm gonna keep Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.98,0:17:07.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that tip just a little bit out Dialogue: 0,0:17:07.74,0:17:09.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah I mean you can always have like Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.72,0:17:12.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little holes where it could get in with Dialogue: 0,0:17:12.60,0:17:14.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these kind of things if it's not seared Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.82,0:17:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well in the end you have like a Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.56,0:17:18.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,capillary effect of that the water Dialogue: 0,0:17:18.60,0:17:22.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,traveled along the fiber okay let's see Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.20,0:17:25.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm super curious Dialogue: 0,0:17:25.63,0:17:27.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:17:27.48,0:17:30.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow there was no splash of water Dialogue: 0,0:17:30.78,0:17:32.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and here is the treated rope that we Dialogue: 0,0:17:32.94,0:17:35.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soaked for 15 minutes as you can see Dialogue: 0,0:17:35.70,0:17:37.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is still barely any water coming Dialogue: 0,0:17:37.92,0:17:40.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out of it and if we would compare this Dialogue: 0,0:17:40.32,0:17:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the classic ropes the difference is Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.20,0:17:46.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,huge Dialogue: 0,0:17:48.96,0:17:53.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we're still here collecting the data Dialogue: 0,0:17:53.16,0:17:56.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Never Ending Story how are we feeling to Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.22,0:17:57.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you Dialogue: 0,0:17:57.60,0:17:58.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:17:58.38,0:18:02.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here stopped for climbing and when it Dialogue: 0,0:18:02.04,0:18:04.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comes to the treated tropes soaking them Dialogue: 0,0:18:04.20,0:18:07.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up to 5 minutes showed no increase in Dialogue: 0,0:18:07.26,0:18:10.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forces however soaking for 15 minutes Dialogue: 0,0:18:10.14,0:18:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already was worse but not as bad Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.92,0:18:17.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compared to the classic ropes so dried Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.16,0:18:19.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,treated ropes unsurprisingly were Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.26,0:18:21.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,performing better in wet conditions Dialogue: 0,0:18:21.12,0:18:23.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however I know that many of you myself Dialogue: 0,0:18:23.82,0:18:27.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,included had a question how long does Dialogue: 0,0:18:27.30,0:18:30.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dry treatment stay effective does it Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.36,0:18:34.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wear off so this is a used truck that I Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.14,0:18:37.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,used for about a year actively almost Dialogue: 0,0:18:37.62,0:18:40.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing every second or every third day Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.14,0:18:43.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we could get a sample of this Dialogue: 0,0:18:43.26,0:18:45.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah that's it this orange rope that I Dialogue: 0,0:18:45.90,0:18:47.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brought is actually perfect for our Dialogue: 0,0:18:47.70,0:18:50.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comparisons because it's exactly the Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.04,0:18:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same rope as the one we already tested Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.44,0:18:55.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the only difference is the color Dialogue: 0,0:18:55.26,0:18:57.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at first we did the test without water Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.78,0:19:00.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that we could compare how much Dialogue: 0,0:19:00.36,0:19:03.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stiffer old rope gets compared to the Dialogue: 0,0:19:03.12,0:19:05.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,new one and to my surprise the Dialogue: 0,0:19:05.46,0:19:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference was very minimal one note Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.16,0:19:10.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here is that we selected the test sample Dialogue: 0,0:19:10.50,0:19:12.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the middle of the rope that part of Dialogue: 0,0:19:12.66,0:19:15.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope usually is the least damaged Dialogue: 0,0:19:15.24,0:19:17.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but that's good to know that if your Dialogue: 0,0:19:17.88,0:19:19.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ends of the Rope are damaged and you Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.62,0:19:21.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chop them off the rest of the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.90,0:19:23.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should perform really well Dialogue: 0,0:19:23.66,0:19:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.68,0:19:27.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah Dialogue: 0,0:19:27.14,0:19:30.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh it's bubbling much more than new Dialogue: 0,0:19:30.66,0:19:34.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes yeah and yes old rope absorbed Dialogue: 0,0:19:34.14,0:19:36.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more water however it still performed Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.78,0:19:38.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better compared to the classic rope Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.52,0:19:42.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,being new treated rope soaked for five Dialogue: 0,0:19:42.12,0:19:44.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minutes let's see how it how well it Dialogue: 0,0:19:44.22,0:19:44.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,served Dialogue: 0,0:19:44.65,0:19:47.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Laughter] Dialogue: 0,0:19:47.25,0:19:53.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.58,0:19:56.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we actually washed the Rope but you can Dialogue: 0,0:19:56.70,0:19:59.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still see that the water which comes out Dialogue: 0,0:19:59.58,0:20:00.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of it Dialogue: 0,0:20:00.54,0:20:03.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is still grayish a little bit Dialogue: 0,0:20:03.48,0:20:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,coming out does it hurt so you want to Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.00,0:20:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blend my washing machine Dialogue: 0,0:20:07.52,0:20:10.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this is what happened with the wet Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.32,0:20:12.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,old rope the first fall was actually Dialogue: 0,0:20:12.66,0:20:16.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,identical which is very nice and then Dialogue: 0,0:20:16.14,0:20:18.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the subsequent folds again had an Dialogue: 0,0:20:18.36,0:20:20.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increase in forces Dialogue: 0,0:20:20.52,0:20:23.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if we would compare all wet drops Dialogue: 0,0:20:23.40,0:20:26.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is what we get Dialogue: 0,0:20:26.10,0:20:28.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the only thing missing here that we Dialogue: 0,0:20:28.38,0:20:31.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,had no time to do would be to test old Dialogue: 0,0:20:31.26,0:20:33.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,classic robes Dialogue: 0,0:20:33.60,0:20:36.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so yes treated robes do lose their water Dialogue: 0,0:20:36.96,0:20:40.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,repellent magic Over time however they Dialogue: 0,0:20:40.44,0:20:42.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still perform better compared to the Dialogue: 0,0:20:42.36,0:20:46.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,classic ropes however there is still one Dialogue: 0,0:20:46.14,0:20:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very interesting thing to know let's Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.00,0:20:50.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,look into water absorption graph again Dialogue: 0,0:20:50.10,0:20:52.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,notice that classic crops are almost Dialogue: 0,0:20:52.26,0:20:54.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fully saturated after five minutes Dialogue: 0,0:20:54.12,0:20:56.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however treated tropes even after 15 Dialogue: 0,0:20:56.88,0:20:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minutes still have a trend up so then Dialogue: 0,0:20:59.88,0:21:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the question is what's the full Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.92,0:21:05.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,saturation point of treated ropes so I Dialogue: 0,0:21:05.04,0:21:07.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,asked Adriana to do these tests and here Dialogue: 0,0:21:07.50,0:21:10.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are the results turns out that all the Dialogue: 0,0:21:10.14,0:21:12.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes were trending to the same around Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.36,0:21:16.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,40 percent level so that means even if Dialogue: 0,0:21:16.02,0:21:18.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your rope is dry treated and you put it Dialogue: 0,0:21:18.18,0:21:20.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,under water and you leave it there for Dialogue: 0,0:21:20.46,0:21:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,long enough Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.60,0:21:23.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't know why would you do that but Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.70,0:21:26.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you would do that eventually all of Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.28,0:21:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these tens of thousands of tiny Dialogue: 0,0:21:28.52,0:21:31.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,filaments in the Rope would act as Dialogue: 0,0:21:31.32,0:21:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,capillaries and the water would find its Dialogue: 0,0:21:34.08,0:21:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,way in and it would probably perform Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.68,0:21:41.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar to the Rope being not treated Dialogue: 0,0:21:43.92,0:21:47.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now before some of you will become Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.58,0:21:49.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hydrophobic let me add a couple of Dialogue: 0,0:21:49.80,0:21:52.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,things yes wet ropes are significantly Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.56,0:21:55.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,heavier which sucks when you're climbing Dialogue: 0,0:21:55.02,0:21:57.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they might wear down quicker both Dialogue: 0,0:21:57.90,0:22:01.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from false and from abrasion which sucks Dialogue: 0,0:22:01.62,0:22:04.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to your wallet also there is a theory Dialogue: 0,0:22:04.02,0:22:07.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that They are thicker with swell from Dialogue: 0,0:22:07.32,0:22:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,water Dialogue: 0,0:22:08.40,0:22:10.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's see Dialogue: 0,0:22:10.46,0:22:14.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I soaked this rope for a few hours this Dialogue: 0,0:22:14.04,0:22:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is supposed to be 9.8 rope and I'm Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.52,0:22:20.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measuring Dialogue: 0,0:22:21.26,0:22:26.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,11.3 let's see the wet spot Dialogue: 0,0:22:31.38,0:22:32.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay Dialogue: 0,0:22:32.52,0:22:34.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I don't see any difference at least Dialogue: 0,0:22:34.74,0:22:36.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on this rope which is worn out and it's Dialogue: 0,0:22:36.84,0:22:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already thicker when it's nominal value Dialogue: 0,0:22:39.60,0:22:42.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah so I didn't want to leave my fellow Dialogue: 0,0:22:42.84,0:22:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbers hanging like that so the next Dialogue: 0,0:22:45.36,0:22:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,day I took a bunch of different used Dialogue: 0,0:22:47.64,0:22:51.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes soaked them and measured the Dialogue: 0,0:22:51.24,0:22:53.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thickness and what I found out is that Dialogue: 0,0:22:53.64,0:22:56.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,indeed some of the robes did got thicker Dialogue: 0,0:22:56.46,0:22:58.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like the green decathlon rope for Dialogue: 0,0:22:58.74,0:23:01.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,example however other ropes did not Dialogue: 0,0:23:01.56,0:23:04.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,change in diameter next I tested how Dialogue: 0,0:23:04.92,0:23:07.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smooth the ropes run through belaying Dialogue: 0,0:23:07.38,0:23:10.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices and here my findings were mixed Dialogue: 0,0:23:10.14,0:23:13.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again some of the ropes got sticky they Dialogue: 0,0:23:13.32,0:23:15.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,became harder to pull through belaying Dialogue: 0,0:23:15.60,0:23:18.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and more likely to lock the blank Dialogue: 0,0:23:18.60,0:23:21.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device however other ropes got the Dialogue: 0,0:23:21.54,0:23:23.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,opposite result they became more Dialogue: 0,0:23:23.70,0:23:26.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slippery as if water would lubricate the Dialogue: 0,0:23:26.58,0:23:29.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,billeting device so yes the laying does Dialogue: 0,0:23:29.46,0:23:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,change with water however it's unclear Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.16,0:23:34.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how how the change will affect Europe Dialogue: 0,0:23:34.92,0:23:38.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and about those other things well Dialogue: 0,0:23:38.16,0:23:40.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,honestly it's unlikely that you will Dialogue: 0,0:23:40.62,0:23:42.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climb in such a wet conditions long Dialogue: 0,0:23:42.66,0:23:45.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough to even have those problems so if Dialogue: 0,0:23:45.42,0:23:49.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your rope got a bit wet well try it but Dialogue: 0,0:23:49.56,0:23:53.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if I would be going to cold wet ice Dialogue: 0,0:23:53.34,0:23:57.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing places where people die Dialogue: 0,0:23:57.60,0:24:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,um yeah maybe having a treated rope Dialogue: 0,0:24:00.00,0:24:02.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reduces the chance of dying this is so Dialogue: 0,0:24:02.34,0:24:05.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard she put I mean I don't know just Dialogue: 0,0:24:05.16,0:24:07.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like being in a snowy or icy environment Dialogue: 0,0:24:07.98,0:24:10.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's recommended to have the dry Dialogue: 0,0:24:10.14,0:24:11.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,treatment because it's just an extra Dialogue: 0,0:24:11.70,0:24:14.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safety buffer yeah there is one route in Dialogue: 0,0:24:14.28,0:24:16.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Spain which crosses a waterfall in Dialogue: 0,0:24:16.98,0:24:18.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multi-pitch Dialogue: 0,0:24:18.12,0:24:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah I mean also if you're climb in very Dialogue: 0,0:24:20.40,0:24:23.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,humid conditions it's Thailand Dialogue: 0,0:24:23.34,0:24:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we go there it's really humid and dry Dialogue: 0,0:24:25.92,0:24:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope makes sense Dialogue: 0,0:24:27.92,0:24:31.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting so the little details shall Dialogue: 0,0:24:31.80,0:24:33.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we go to Thailand to do some science Dialogue: 0,0:24:33.36,0:24:36.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,research trip Dialogue: 0,0:24:36.54,0:24:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right if you found this video Dialogue: 0,0:24:38.64,0:24:41.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting I made the playlist for you Dialogue: 0,0:24:41.04,0:24:42.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I was nerding with Mammoth Dialogue: 0,0:24:42.84,0:24:45.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Engineers on different topics very Dialogue: 0,0:24:45.24,0:24:47.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting topics so thank you Mahmoud Dialogue: 0,0:24:47.40,0:24:49.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for letting me to periodically come over Dialogue: 0,0:24:49.32,0:24:51.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and play with your toys and thank you Dialogue: 0,0:24:51.66,0:24:54.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Adriana for all their rope chemistry Dialogue: 0,0:24:54.24,0:24:58.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,explanations and thank you for watching Dialogue: 0,0:24:58.44,0:25:01.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you in the next one