1 00:00:00,120 --> 00:00:03,600 this is a dynamic climbing rope one can 2 00:00:03,600 --> 00:00:07,259 take hundreds of these massive Falls and 3 00:00:07,259 --> 00:00:10,980 it will still provide a soft Landing for 4 00:00:10,980 --> 00:00:13,500 the climber Now Let's ignore the blue 5 00:00:13,500 --> 00:00:16,859 protective shift and pull out the core 6 00:00:16,859 --> 00:00:19,980 so this white strands is the core of the 7 00:00:19,980 --> 00:00:22,260 Rope which is responsible for majority 8 00:00:22,260 --> 00:00:25,560 of rope's strength if I would untwist 9 00:00:25,560 --> 00:00:28,859 the core strand eventually I would get 10 00:00:28,859 --> 00:00:31,859 to this thing which is called a 11 00:00:31,859 --> 00:00:34,920 multi-filament and if I would dig deeper 12 00:00:34,920 --> 00:00:38,219 and try to separate the smallest part of 13 00:00:38,219 --> 00:00:41,280 the Rope I would get to a single 14 00:00:41,280 --> 00:00:46,980 filament which I can barely see so this 15 00:00:46,980 --> 00:00:49,739 is a single filament 16 00:00:49,739 --> 00:00:52,440 so this filament is about 10 times 17 00:00:52,440 --> 00:00:54,719 thinner than the human hair and there is 18 00:00:54,719 --> 00:00:58,079 about 50 to 80 19 00:00:58,079 --> 00:01:01,260 000 of them in a single rope and all of 20 00:01:01,260 --> 00:01:03,780 them run across entire length of the 21 00:01:03,780 --> 00:01:06,659 Rope now during the fall this filaments 22 00:01:06,659 --> 00:01:10,020 stretch but also they slide past each 23 00:01:10,020 --> 00:01:12,780 other which creates friction and this 24 00:01:12,780 --> 00:01:15,240 friction helps to dampen the impact 25 00:01:15,240 --> 00:01:18,060 however if we would make a rope wet 26 00:01:18,060 --> 00:01:20,700 water on the surface of the filaments 27 00:01:20,700 --> 00:01:22,979 would act as a lubricant this would 28 00:01:22,979 --> 00:01:25,680 allow the filaments to slide easier past 29 00:01:25,680 --> 00:01:27,720 each other which would reduce the 30 00:01:27,720 --> 00:01:30,479 dampening effect also you can probably 31 00:01:30,479 --> 00:01:33,000 imagine that as I want to stretch the 32 00:01:33,000 --> 00:01:36,000 Rope out it needs to shrink in diameter 33 00:01:36,000 --> 00:01:39,119 however if the Rope is full of water in 34 00:01:39,119 --> 00:01:42,240 order to shrink in diameter first it 35 00:01:42,240 --> 00:01:45,600 needs to spit the water out however if 36 00:01:45,600 --> 00:01:48,000 the impact is hard enough the water 37 00:01:48,000 --> 00:01:51,360 cannot Escape faster it's like when you 38 00:01:51,360 --> 00:01:53,520 belly flop on the water and the water 39 00:01:53,520 --> 00:01:55,560 doesn't have enough time to flow around 40 00:01:55,560 --> 00:01:58,680 your body and things get even more 41 00:01:58,680 --> 00:02:01,140 interesting from here if we would look 42 00:02:01,140 --> 00:02:04,619 deeper deep deep inside the filament we 43 00:02:04,619 --> 00:02:07,799 would find this but don't worry the only 44 00:02:07,799 --> 00:02:09,539 thing you need to know that this is a 45 00:02:09,539 --> 00:02:12,540 monomer which joins together to form a 46 00:02:12,540 --> 00:02:15,540 polymer chain and this chain can be very 47 00:02:15,540 --> 00:02:19,500 long very very long which is really 48 00:02:19,500 --> 00:02:23,099 great for making filament fiber and this 49 00:02:23,099 --> 00:02:25,260 is where things get interesting notice 50 00:02:25,260 --> 00:02:27,900 that some parts of this fiber are 51 00:02:27,900 --> 00:02:31,140 arranged neatly in order these parts are 52 00:02:31,140 --> 00:02:34,140 called crystalline and they have polymer 53 00:02:34,140 --> 00:02:37,200 chains packed so close together that 54 00:02:37,200 --> 00:02:39,540 they form an attraction for each other 55 00:02:39,540 --> 00:02:42,420 and this happens because hydrogen from 56 00:02:42,420 --> 00:02:45,420 one chain really likes the oxygen from 57 00:02:45,420 --> 00:02:47,760 the other chain so all of this makes 58 00:02:47,760 --> 00:02:50,519 these parts really strong with which is 59 00:02:50,519 --> 00:02:52,140 great for the strength of the Rope 60 00:02:52,140 --> 00:02:55,560 however it also makes these parts really 61 00:02:55,560 --> 00:02:58,379 stiff which is not so great when you 62 00:02:58,379 --> 00:03:01,319 want your dynamic rope to stretch and 63 00:03:01,319 --> 00:03:03,300 that's what these other parts that look 64 00:03:03,300 --> 00:03:06,000 like spaghettis are four they are called 65 00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:08,760 amorphous and they have much bigger gaps 66 00:03:08,760 --> 00:03:11,340 between the chains which allows them to 67 00:03:11,340 --> 00:03:12,360 stretch 68 00:03:12,360 --> 00:03:14,340 so when the force is applied on the 69 00:03:14,340 --> 00:03:17,640 fiber these spaghetti Parts stretch and 70 00:03:17,640 --> 00:03:19,680 the crystalline Parts provide the 71 00:03:19,680 --> 00:03:22,800 strength you can probably imagine that a 72 00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:24,900 very stiff rope 73 00:03:24,900 --> 00:03:27,959 wouldn't be great for climbing but 74 00:03:27,959 --> 00:03:30,000 neither the Rope which would stretch too 75 00:03:30,000 --> 00:03:32,599 much because when I fall I want to land 76 00:03:32,599 --> 00:03:36,000 not on the ground so by controlling the 77 00:03:36,000 --> 00:03:38,459 ratio between spaghettis and crystalline 78 00:03:38,459 --> 00:03:41,819 Parts rope manufacturers can create this 79 00:03:41,819 --> 00:03:44,700 great strength but at the same time 80 00:03:44,700 --> 00:03:48,299 perfect Force absorption which is quite 81 00:03:48,299 --> 00:03:50,760 impressive now remember I said that 82 00:03:50,760 --> 00:03:53,760 hydrogen really likes the oxygen guess 83 00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:56,280 what else has a lot of hydrogen and 84 00:03:56,280 --> 00:04:00,180 oxygen that's right water good news is 85 00:04:00,180 --> 00:04:02,640 that water cannot really penetrate into 86 00:04:02,640 --> 00:04:04,860 the crystalline parts of the fiber 87 00:04:04,860 --> 00:04:07,620 because the chains there are very packed 88 00:04:07,620 --> 00:04:10,620 close together already however spaghetti 89 00:04:10,620 --> 00:04:13,860 Parts have gaps and that allows water to 90 00:04:13,860 --> 00:04:16,859 come in and bond to the chains and this 91 00:04:16,859 --> 00:04:19,079 bonding increases the distance between 92 00:04:19,079 --> 00:04:21,720 the chains and it also weakens the 93 00:04:21,720 --> 00:04:24,900 intermolecular attraction so now if the 94 00:04:24,900 --> 00:04:27,120 the force is applied when the fiber is 95 00:04:27,120 --> 00:04:30,540 wet spaghettis might stretch more than 96 00:04:30,540 --> 00:04:32,660 what they are capable to recover from 97 00:04:32,660 --> 00:04:35,460 and that might damage the entire 98 00:04:35,460 --> 00:04:39,600 structure of the fiber but all of that 99 00:04:39,600 --> 00:04:43,139 is in theory so let's see if that theory 100 00:04:43,139 --> 00:04:45,180 applies to real world climbing 101 00:04:45,180 --> 00:04:47,720 situations 102 00:04:49,930 --> 00:04:52,440 [Music] 103 00:04:52,440 --> 00:04:53,880 and if you're wondering who goes 104 00:04:53,880 --> 00:04:56,820 climbing in the rain well this was my 105 00:04:56,820 --> 00:04:59,400 birthday and we came up with a brilliant 106 00:04:59,400 --> 00:05:03,360 idea to climb 34 routes in a day and 107 00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:07,100 half of the day was raining 108 00:05:08,160 --> 00:05:10,620 so yeah let's say I have some wet 109 00:05:10,620 --> 00:05:14,160 experiences but my anecdotal experiences 110 00:05:14,160 --> 00:05:17,220 are not science and to do proper science 111 00:05:17,220 --> 00:05:19,800 I needed to go to the place where the 112 00:05:19,800 --> 00:05:23,470 ropes are properly tested 113 00:05:23,470 --> 00:05:31,500 [Music] 114 00:05:31,880 --> 00:05:34,530 [ __ ] there's a lot coming out 115 00:05:34,530 --> 00:05:36,919 [Music] 116 00:05:36,919 --> 00:05:40,160 that's a lot 117 00:05:40,160 --> 00:05:44,340 and before we begin a strange fact I 118 00:05:44,340 --> 00:05:46,740 checked a lot of user manuals of dynamic 119 00:05:46,740 --> 00:05:49,740 climbing ropes from various Brands and 120 00:05:49,740 --> 00:05:52,740 about half of them have various warnings 121 00:05:52,740 --> 00:05:55,740 about wet drops however the other half 122 00:05:55,740 --> 00:05:58,020 doesn't mention anything 123 00:05:58,020 --> 00:06:02,360 hmm okay so here is the question 124 00:06:02,360 --> 00:06:06,600 will dry rope cause harder catch on 125 00:06:06,600 --> 00:06:09,060 realistic fault scenario 126 00:06:09,060 --> 00:06:12,960 well we would say over time yes in the 127 00:06:12,960 --> 00:06:15,300 beginning probably not 128 00:06:15,300 --> 00:06:18,180 so you mean on a first fall maybe not 129 00:06:18,180 --> 00:06:20,940 yes and on the repeated Falls probably 130 00:06:20,940 --> 00:06:23,639 yes exactly that's not my first 131 00:06:23,639 --> 00:06:26,300 statement made 132 00:06:26,300 --> 00:06:29,160 now since we wanted to mimic real world 133 00:06:29,160 --> 00:06:31,819 scenarios 134 00:06:31,819 --> 00:06:35,220 and heartfalls rarely exceed 4 135 00:06:35,220 --> 00:06:38,039 kilonewtons we needed to modify the drop 136 00:06:38,039 --> 00:06:40,199 tower to produce the forces between 137 00:06:40,199 --> 00:06:44,340 three and four kilonewtons 138 00:06:44,340 --> 00:06:50,100 so we overshoot yes we did buy a lot 139 00:06:50,100 --> 00:06:51,419 [Music] 140 00:06:51,419 --> 00:06:52,500 okay 141 00:06:52,500 --> 00:06:55,620 which took a bit of adjustment on this 142 00:06:55,620 --> 00:06:58,680 old drop tower Mammoth actually has a 143 00:06:58,680 --> 00:07:00,900 way more advanced drop tower which I 144 00:07:00,900 --> 00:07:03,060 already had a pleasure to use when we 145 00:07:03,060 --> 00:07:05,580 were testing the cut resistance of the 146 00:07:05,580 --> 00:07:08,580 ropes which was super interesting yeah 147 00:07:08,580 --> 00:07:10,020 that's easier with the other one because 148 00:07:10,020 --> 00:07:12,300 it works electronically you can put in 149 00:07:12,300 --> 00:07:13,860 the number where you want to go and then 150 00:07:13,860 --> 00:07:15,720 it's aligns it by itself but we are not 151 00:07:15,720 --> 00:07:18,240 allowed to use it not for the water 152 00:07:18,240 --> 00:07:20,699 it doesn't like water yeah so this one 153 00:07:20,699 --> 00:07:22,319 doesn't like the water this one also 154 00:07:22,319 --> 00:07:24,660 doesn't like weather no as soon as these 155 00:07:24,660 --> 00:07:26,639 get wet rust will appear off the wall 156 00:07:26,639 --> 00:07:29,280 and then friction has a big influence on 157 00:07:29,280 --> 00:07:32,220 the yeah but this one we don't use this 158 00:07:32,220 --> 00:07:34,800 for any development or production 159 00:07:34,800 --> 00:07:37,259 control yeah that's why we are allowed 160 00:07:37,259 --> 00:07:40,759 to make it wet exactly 161 00:07:43,440 --> 00:07:46,440 4.11 162 00:07:52,540 --> 00:07:56,599 [Music] 163 00:07:56,599 --> 00:08:00,620 I've heard you're going like oh 164 00:08:00,620 --> 00:08:02,960 the frustration 165 00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:05,639 and not only we needed to make sure that 166 00:08:05,639 --> 00:08:08,280 our samples are between three and four 167 00:08:08,280 --> 00:08:11,580 kilonewtons but also that each of them 168 00:08:11,580 --> 00:08:14,639 is as similar as possible how is it 169 00:08:14,639 --> 00:08:16,979 going we have a method of how we can 170 00:08:16,979 --> 00:08:19,440 always make the nuts equal later we will 171 00:08:19,440 --> 00:08:21,740 have fun 172 00:08:21,740 --> 00:08:24,120 it's a group activity it's a team 173 00:08:24,120 --> 00:08:26,639 building yes how many samples do we need 174 00:08:26,639 --> 00:08:29,160 depends on you how many samples do we 175 00:08:29,160 --> 00:08:29,879 need 176 00:08:29,879 --> 00:08:31,740 depends on how many people we have 177 00:08:31,740 --> 00:08:32,799 making them 178 00:08:32,799 --> 00:08:35,879 [Music] 179 00:08:36,779 --> 00:08:39,719 so what's going on equal length is equal 180 00:08:39,719 --> 00:08:42,599 everything is equal having samples as 181 00:08:42,599 --> 00:08:45,540 similar as possible was actually really 182 00:08:45,540 --> 00:08:48,380 important because as Adriana said 183 00:08:48,380 --> 00:08:52,440 textiles is a very tricky and Moody raw 184 00:08:52,440 --> 00:08:54,839 material to work with Moody it's very 185 00:08:54,839 --> 00:08:57,600 moody yes so although we cannot control 186 00:08:57,600 --> 00:09:00,480 the mood of the Rope but in order to 187 00:09:00,480 --> 00:09:02,279 make the nice statistics that you're 188 00:09:02,279 --> 00:09:04,800 gonna see later in this video we needed 189 00:09:04,800 --> 00:09:07,220 to try our best 190 00:09:07,220 --> 00:09:10,560 too long so basically we are massaging 191 00:09:10,560 --> 00:09:13,260 back and forth to get uh yeah it's what 192 00:09:13,260 --> 00:09:16,320 we in German call it Sisyphus are bite 193 00:09:16,320 --> 00:09:21,420 no we got it you think so if not it's 194 00:09:21,420 --> 00:09:24,120 time for lunch 195 00:09:24,120 --> 00:09:27,920 either we succeed or we eat 196 00:09:27,920 --> 00:09:31,339 everybody click 197 00:09:32,959 --> 00:09:36,320 three points 198 00:09:37,100 --> 00:09:39,980 yeah when I was editing this I thought 199 00:09:39,980 --> 00:09:43,320 wow if you ever wondered how Geeks are 200 00:09:43,320 --> 00:09:47,040 celebrating life this is a prime example 201 00:09:47,040 --> 00:09:51,000 anyway the next question was is our test 202 00:09:51,000 --> 00:09:53,820 setup repeatable meaning will we get 203 00:09:53,820 --> 00:09:56,279 second fall to be close to the first one 204 00:09:56,279 --> 00:09:59,700 if we don't get that then we five hours 205 00:09:59,700 --> 00:10:01,339 more 206 00:10:01,339 --> 00:10:04,920 don't make a night session work till 207 00:10:04,920 --> 00:10:06,959 five and then you go bouldering we have 208 00:10:06,959 --> 00:10:08,399 time limit 209 00:10:08,399 --> 00:10:10,260 because we need to go bouldering because 210 00:10:10,260 --> 00:10:13,279 we need to completely 211 00:10:14,959 --> 00:10:18,959 very nice that's very good very Swiss 212 00:10:18,959 --> 00:10:21,440 accurate 213 00:10:21,600 --> 00:10:24,839 our setup was working really well and 214 00:10:24,839 --> 00:10:28,260 now we needed to collect a lot of data 215 00:10:28,260 --> 00:10:31,140 this might take if we wait three minutes 216 00:10:31,140 --> 00:10:33,959 and we do five Falls that's 15 minutes 217 00:10:33,959 --> 00:10:38,160 just waiting times three times six 218 00:10:38,160 --> 00:10:39,920 fifteen 219 00:10:39,920 --> 00:10:43,220 I the eyes are getting bigger and bigger 220 00:10:43,220 --> 00:10:46,440 and here are the results if we average 221 00:10:46,440 --> 00:10:49,620 all the samples we get the Baseline of 222 00:10:49,620 --> 00:10:52,200 how the force is increasing with every 223 00:10:52,200 --> 00:10:54,899 fall which shows that rope doesn't have 224 00:10:54,899 --> 00:10:57,660 enough time to fully recover so let's 225 00:10:57,660 --> 00:10:59,940 see what happens when the ropes are wet 226 00:10:59,940 --> 00:11:02,459 look how much air is coming out 227 00:11:02,459 --> 00:11:05,399 all the air is escaping from the Rope 228 00:11:05,399 --> 00:11:08,040 during the fall the water will be trying 229 00:11:08,040 --> 00:11:10,860 to escape trying to blast out of Europe 230 00:11:10,860 --> 00:11:13,680 we wanted to do three different tests 231 00:11:13,680 --> 00:11:17,100 where the ropes were soaked for 1 5 and 232 00:11:17,100 --> 00:11:19,980 15 minutes and what was interesting that 233 00:11:19,980 --> 00:11:22,560 fully submerging the Rope for just one 234 00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:25,380 minute was enough to almost completely 235 00:11:25,380 --> 00:11:27,779 saturate the Rope meaning that soaking 236 00:11:27,779 --> 00:11:32,339 for longer did not add any extra weight 237 00:11:32,339 --> 00:11:35,279 and after we dropped all the wet samples 238 00:11:35,279 --> 00:11:38,220 and enjoyed the splashing of the water 239 00:11:38,220 --> 00:11:39,610 everywhere 240 00:11:39,610 --> 00:11:43,160 [Laughter] 241 00:11:43,440 --> 00:11:44,660 oh my God 242 00:11:44,660 --> 00:11:47,339 here are the results since the 243 00:11:47,339 --> 00:11:49,019 difference in water absorption was 244 00:11:49,019 --> 00:11:51,779 minimal the forces were actually very 245 00:11:51,779 --> 00:11:54,360 similar and if we take the average of 246 00:11:54,360 --> 00:11:57,240 all the wet samples we can see that the 247 00:11:57,240 --> 00:12:00,120 first fall was only slightly harder 248 00:12:00,120 --> 00:12:03,000 however the difference increases with 249 00:12:03,000 --> 00:12:04,860 the subsequent false 250 00:12:04,860 --> 00:12:07,260 you know it's combining everything to 251 00:12:07,260 --> 00:12:11,120 family so statistically significant 252 00:12:11,120 --> 00:12:15,800 very good today we made a page 253 00:12:16,279 --> 00:12:20,339 science a little future me Interruption 254 00:12:20,339 --> 00:12:23,459 since I got more information the peak 255 00:12:23,459 --> 00:12:25,620 forces that we measured obviously do 256 00:12:25,620 --> 00:12:27,779 contribute to how hard the catch will be 257 00:12:27,779 --> 00:12:30,660 for the climber however it's not the 258 00:12:30,660 --> 00:12:32,700 only Factor 259 00:12:32,700 --> 00:12:34,980 the big Force to the climber usually 260 00:12:34,980 --> 00:12:38,220 happens around this moment but even on 261 00:12:38,220 --> 00:12:40,860 the hardest Falls this moment is not 262 00:12:40,860 --> 00:12:43,320 hard enough for the human body to be a 263 00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:46,440 problem what is the problem however is 264 00:12:46,440 --> 00:12:51,079 how hard the climber will hit the wall 265 00:12:51,959 --> 00:12:54,240 as I mentioned earlier as the Rope is 266 00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:56,279 stretching the filaments are rubbing 267 00:12:56,279 --> 00:12:58,680 against each other which dampens the 268 00:12:58,680 --> 00:13:01,019 energy and and if the Rope would be able 269 00:13:01,019 --> 00:13:02,880 to absorb all the energy during the fall 270 00:13:02,880 --> 00:13:06,420 it would stretch and then stop however 271 00:13:06,420 --> 00:13:08,940 that's not what happens on hard Falls 272 00:13:08,940 --> 00:13:11,519 normally the Rope will act like a spring 273 00:13:11,519 --> 00:13:14,760 it will stretch and then bounce back 274 00:13:14,760 --> 00:13:18,060 that bounce back usually creates more 275 00:13:18,060 --> 00:13:20,700 energy going towards the wall and if the 276 00:13:20,700 --> 00:13:22,860 Rope is wet the filaments are sliding 277 00:13:22,860 --> 00:13:25,500 easier past each other which reduces the 278 00:13:25,500 --> 00:13:28,500 dampening effect so the bounce back into 279 00:13:28,500 --> 00:13:31,620 the wall should be harder so I was 280 00:13:31,620 --> 00:13:34,560 really curious to test this however this 281 00:13:34,560 --> 00:13:36,480 requires more advanced testing 282 00:13:36,480 --> 00:13:39,180 facilities but luckily after I left 283 00:13:39,180 --> 00:13:41,100 Mahmoud did this test in another 284 00:13:41,100 --> 00:13:44,100 facility and sent me the results here is 285 00:13:44,100 --> 00:13:46,500 the force graph where the initial Peak 286 00:13:46,500 --> 00:13:49,680 was said to be around 3.6 kilonewtons 287 00:13:49,680 --> 00:13:52,680 and after that we can see how the Rope 288 00:13:52,680 --> 00:13:55,860 bounces couple of times now in the case 289 00:13:55,860 --> 00:13:58,560 of the wet rope the peak is only 290 00:13:58,560 --> 00:14:01,320 slightly higher however the spring 291 00:14:01,320 --> 00:14:05,519 effect is much higher and this is the 292 00:14:05,519 --> 00:14:08,180 same graph after five consecutive Falls 293 00:14:08,180 --> 00:14:12,440 the initial Peak was 23 percent harder 294 00:14:12,440 --> 00:14:16,680 however the bounce was much harder so 295 00:14:16,680 --> 00:14:19,800 the spring effect was much bigger 296 00:14:19,800 --> 00:14:22,740 alright so far we confirmed that wet 297 00:14:22,740 --> 00:14:26,279 robes might cause harder Falls but also 298 00:14:26,279 --> 00:14:29,279 according to the theory wet drops might 299 00:14:29,279 --> 00:14:31,500 lead to some permanent damage to the 300 00:14:31,500 --> 00:14:32,519 Rope 301 00:14:32,519 --> 00:14:35,160 let's see so we left the last rope 302 00:14:35,160 --> 00:14:36,720 hanging overnight 303 00:14:36,720 --> 00:14:40,139 so technically now it's dry and 304 00:14:40,139 --> 00:14:43,320 um and rested 305 00:14:43,320 --> 00:14:46,139 so we dropped this rope once again and 306 00:14:46,139 --> 00:14:49,199 the fall was harder compared to the 307 00:14:49,199 --> 00:14:51,899 Baseline which definitely hints that 308 00:14:51,899 --> 00:14:54,600 there was some permanent damage done to 309 00:14:54,600 --> 00:14:57,720 the Rope alright so far so good and 310 00:14:57,720 --> 00:14:59,940 there was two more experiments I wanted 311 00:14:59,940 --> 00:15:03,060 to make first of all we did all our 312 00:15:03,060 --> 00:15:05,940 tests on classic ropes so I was curious 313 00:15:05,940 --> 00:15:08,760 how dried treated ropes would perform on 314 00:15:08,760 --> 00:15:10,920 the same tests and in case you don't 315 00:15:10,920 --> 00:15:13,199 know dry treated ropes are soaked in 316 00:15:13,199 --> 00:15:16,620 certain chemicals that make them more 317 00:15:16,620 --> 00:15:21,000 water resistant our dry ropes we add the 318 00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:24,060 chemical first to the core so to the 319 00:15:24,060 --> 00:15:26,519 strands they get a drop application then 320 00:15:26,519 --> 00:15:28,980 we braid the rope together and then we 321 00:15:28,980 --> 00:15:31,620 submerge it in a chemical bath and we 322 00:15:31,620 --> 00:15:34,320 take it out and we dry it and then you 323 00:15:34,320 --> 00:15:36,600 have a dry roll so basically core is 324 00:15:36,600 --> 00:15:38,880 separately submerged into chemical and 325 00:15:38,880 --> 00:15:42,060 then entire rope now the cooler get a 326 00:15:42,060 --> 00:15:44,220 drop application you need 327 00:15:44,220 --> 00:15:46,920 just a little drop every every couple 328 00:15:46,920 --> 00:15:50,760 seconds is enough to make it uh water 329 00:15:50,760 --> 00:15:53,040 resistant interesting and then the 330 00:15:53,040 --> 00:15:55,380 entire rope goes into the thing yeah 331 00:15:55,380 --> 00:15:58,019 when it's finished so let's see how good 332 00:15:58,019 --> 00:16:01,500 that treatment is in practice 333 00:16:01,500 --> 00:16:06,120 [Music] 334 00:16:06,120 --> 00:16:08,519 so at first we did a lot of drops 335 00:16:08,519 --> 00:16:11,040 without water and that allowed us to 336 00:16:11,040 --> 00:16:13,680 compare treated tropes with classic ones 337 00:16:13,680 --> 00:16:15,899 and it was good to see that treatment 338 00:16:15,899 --> 00:16:18,899 has no negative effect when the ropes 339 00:16:18,899 --> 00:16:21,600 are dry so let's see if it has a 340 00:16:21,600 --> 00:16:23,639 positive effect when the ropes are wet 341 00:16:23,639 --> 00:16:27,000 number two number two you want to get 342 00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:28,860 the shot of how 343 00:16:28,860 --> 00:16:32,940 treated robes Stone bubble or duvet 344 00:16:32,940 --> 00:16:36,779 bubble wait maybe I don't want to 345 00:16:36,779 --> 00:16:39,180 look it doesn't bubble as much as the 346 00:16:39,180 --> 00:16:40,680 other one 347 00:16:40,680 --> 00:16:43,620 what if you squeeze it a bit but no 348 00:16:43,620 --> 00:16:45,740 squeezing 349 00:16:45,740 --> 00:16:48,720 and yes dry treated ropes absorbed 350 00:16:48,720 --> 00:16:51,079 significantly less water 351 00:16:51,079 --> 00:16:54,779 ah I know what can be the problem that 352 00:16:54,779 --> 00:16:57,899 ends I see bubbles coming from the ends 353 00:16:57,899 --> 00:17:00,000 a little bit although we sealed the ends 354 00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:02,339 but most of the bubbles are coming from 355 00:17:02,339 --> 00:17:04,980 the tip of the Rope maybe I'm gonna keep 356 00:17:04,980 --> 00:17:07,740 that tip just a little bit out 357 00:17:07,740 --> 00:17:09,720 yeah I mean you can always have like 358 00:17:09,720 --> 00:17:12,600 little holes where it could get in with 359 00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:14,819 these kind of things if it's not seared 360 00:17:14,819 --> 00:17:16,559 well in the end you have like a 361 00:17:16,559 --> 00:17:18,600 capillary effect of that the water 362 00:17:18,600 --> 00:17:22,199 traveled along the fiber okay let's see 363 00:17:22,199 --> 00:17:25,100 I'm super curious 364 00:17:25,630 --> 00:17:27,480 [Music] 365 00:17:27,480 --> 00:17:30,780 wow there was no splash of water 366 00:17:30,780 --> 00:17:32,940 and here is the treated rope that we 367 00:17:32,940 --> 00:17:35,700 soaked for 15 minutes as you can see 368 00:17:35,700 --> 00:17:37,919 there is still barely any water coming 369 00:17:37,919 --> 00:17:40,320 out of it and if we would compare this 370 00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:43,200 to the classic ropes the difference is 371 00:17:43,200 --> 00:17:46,039 huge 372 00:17:48,960 --> 00:17:53,160 we're still here collecting the data 373 00:17:53,160 --> 00:17:56,220 Never Ending Story how are we feeling to 374 00:17:56,220 --> 00:17:57,600 you 375 00:17:57,600 --> 00:17:58,380 yeah 376 00:17:58,380 --> 00:18:02,039 here stopped for climbing and when it 377 00:18:02,039 --> 00:18:04,200 comes to the treated tropes soaking them 378 00:18:04,200 --> 00:18:07,260 up to 5 minutes showed no increase in 379 00:18:07,260 --> 00:18:10,140 forces however soaking for 15 minutes 380 00:18:10,140 --> 00:18:13,919 already was worse but not as bad 381 00:18:13,919 --> 00:18:17,160 compared to the classic ropes so dried 382 00:18:17,160 --> 00:18:19,260 treated ropes unsurprisingly were 383 00:18:19,260 --> 00:18:21,120 performing better in wet conditions 384 00:18:21,120 --> 00:18:23,820 however I know that many of you myself 385 00:18:23,820 --> 00:18:27,299 included had a question how long does 386 00:18:27,299 --> 00:18:30,360 dry treatment stay effective does it 387 00:18:30,360 --> 00:18:34,140 wear off so this is a used truck that I 388 00:18:34,140 --> 00:18:37,620 used for about a year actively almost 389 00:18:37,620 --> 00:18:40,140 climbing every second or every third day 390 00:18:40,140 --> 00:18:43,260 so we could get a sample of this 391 00:18:43,260 --> 00:18:45,900 yeah that's it this orange rope that I 392 00:18:45,900 --> 00:18:47,700 brought is actually perfect for our 393 00:18:47,700 --> 00:18:50,039 comparisons because it's exactly the 394 00:18:50,039 --> 00:18:52,440 same rope as the one we already tested 395 00:18:52,440 --> 00:18:55,260 the only difference is the color 396 00:18:55,260 --> 00:18:57,780 at first we did the test without water 397 00:18:57,780 --> 00:19:00,360 so that we could compare how much 398 00:19:00,360 --> 00:19:03,120 stiffer old rope gets compared to the 399 00:19:03,120 --> 00:19:05,460 new one and to my surprise the 400 00:19:05,460 --> 00:19:08,160 difference was very minimal one note 401 00:19:08,160 --> 00:19:10,500 here is that we selected the test sample 402 00:19:10,500 --> 00:19:12,660 from the middle of the rope that part of 403 00:19:12,660 --> 00:19:15,240 the Rope usually is the least damaged 404 00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:17,880 but that's good to know that if your 405 00:19:17,880 --> 00:19:19,620 ends of the Rope are damaged and you 406 00:19:19,620 --> 00:19:21,900 chop them off the rest of the Rope 407 00:19:21,900 --> 00:19:23,660 should perform really well 408 00:19:23,660 --> 00:19:25,679 [Music] 409 00:19:25,679 --> 00:19:27,140 yeah 410 00:19:27,140 --> 00:19:30,660 oh it's bubbling much more than new 411 00:19:30,660 --> 00:19:34,140 ropes yeah and yes old rope absorbed 412 00:19:34,140 --> 00:19:36,780 more water however it still performed 413 00:19:36,780 --> 00:19:38,520 better compared to the classic rope 414 00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:42,120 being new treated rope soaked for five 415 00:19:42,120 --> 00:19:44,220 minutes let's see how it how well it 416 00:19:44,220 --> 00:19:44,650 served 417 00:19:44,650 --> 00:19:47,250 [Laughter] 418 00:19:47,250 --> 00:19:53,249 [Music] 419 00:19:53,580 --> 00:19:56,700 we actually washed the Rope but you can 420 00:19:56,700 --> 00:19:59,580 still see that the water which comes out 421 00:19:59,580 --> 00:20:00,539 of it 422 00:20:00,539 --> 00:20:03,480 is still grayish a little bit 423 00:20:03,480 --> 00:20:06,000 coming out does it hurt so you want to 424 00:20:06,000 --> 00:20:07,520 blend my washing machine 425 00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:10,320 and this is what happened with the wet 426 00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:12,660 old rope the first fall was actually 427 00:20:12,660 --> 00:20:16,140 identical which is very nice and then 428 00:20:16,140 --> 00:20:18,360 the subsequent folds again had an 429 00:20:18,360 --> 00:20:20,520 increase in forces 430 00:20:20,520 --> 00:20:23,400 and if we would compare all wet drops 431 00:20:23,400 --> 00:20:26,100 this is what we get 432 00:20:26,100 --> 00:20:28,380 and the only thing missing here that we 433 00:20:28,380 --> 00:20:31,260 had no time to do would be to test old 434 00:20:31,260 --> 00:20:33,600 classic robes 435 00:20:33,600 --> 00:20:36,960 so yes treated robes do lose their water 436 00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:40,440 repellent magic Over time however they 437 00:20:40,440 --> 00:20:42,360 still perform better compared to the 438 00:20:42,360 --> 00:20:46,140 classic ropes however there is still one 439 00:20:46,140 --> 00:20:48,000 very interesting thing to know let's 440 00:20:48,000 --> 00:20:50,100 look into water absorption graph again 441 00:20:50,100 --> 00:20:52,260 notice that classic crops are almost 442 00:20:52,260 --> 00:20:54,120 fully saturated after five minutes 443 00:20:54,120 --> 00:20:56,880 however treated tropes even after 15 444 00:20:56,880 --> 00:20:59,880 minutes still have a trend up so then 445 00:20:59,880 --> 00:21:01,919 the question is what's the full 446 00:21:01,919 --> 00:21:05,039 saturation point of treated ropes so I 447 00:21:05,039 --> 00:21:07,500 asked Adriana to do these tests and here 448 00:21:07,500 --> 00:21:10,140 are the results turns out that all the 449 00:21:10,140 --> 00:21:12,360 ropes were trending to the same around 450 00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:16,020 40 percent level so that means even if 451 00:21:16,020 --> 00:21:18,179 your rope is dry treated and you put it 452 00:21:18,179 --> 00:21:20,460 under water and you leave it there for 453 00:21:20,460 --> 00:21:21,600 long enough 454 00:21:21,600 --> 00:21:23,700 I don't know why would you do that but 455 00:21:23,700 --> 00:21:26,280 if you would do that eventually all of 456 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:28,520 these tens of thousands of tiny 457 00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:31,320 filaments in the Rope would act as 458 00:21:31,320 --> 00:21:34,080 capillaries and the water would find its 459 00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:36,679 way in and it would probably perform 460 00:21:36,679 --> 00:21:41,299 similar to the Rope being not treated 461 00:21:43,919 --> 00:21:47,580 now before some of you will become 462 00:21:47,580 --> 00:21:49,799 hydrophobic let me add a couple of 463 00:21:49,799 --> 00:21:52,559 things yes wet ropes are significantly 464 00:21:52,559 --> 00:21:55,020 heavier which sucks when you're climbing 465 00:21:55,020 --> 00:21:57,900 and they might wear down quicker both 466 00:21:57,900 --> 00:22:01,620 from false and from abrasion which sucks 467 00:22:01,620 --> 00:22:04,020 to your wallet also there is a theory 468 00:22:04,020 --> 00:22:07,320 that They are thicker with swell from 469 00:22:07,320 --> 00:22:08,400 water 470 00:22:08,400 --> 00:22:10,460 let's see 471 00:22:10,460 --> 00:22:14,039 I soaked this rope for a few hours this 472 00:22:14,039 --> 00:22:17,520 is supposed to be 9.8 rope and I'm 473 00:22:17,520 --> 00:22:20,059 measuring 474 00:22:21,260 --> 00:22:26,419 11.3 let's see the wet spot 475 00:22:31,380 --> 00:22:32,520 okay 476 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:34,740 so I don't see any difference at least 477 00:22:34,740 --> 00:22:36,840 on this rope which is worn out and it's 478 00:22:36,840 --> 00:22:39,600 already thicker when it's nominal value 479 00:22:39,600 --> 00:22:42,840 yeah so I didn't want to leave my fellow 480 00:22:42,840 --> 00:22:45,360 climbers hanging like that so the next 481 00:22:45,360 --> 00:22:47,640 day I took a bunch of different used 482 00:22:47,640 --> 00:22:51,240 ropes soaked them and measured the 483 00:22:51,240 --> 00:22:53,640 thickness and what I found out is that 484 00:22:53,640 --> 00:22:56,460 indeed some of the robes did got thicker 485 00:22:56,460 --> 00:22:58,740 like the green decathlon rope for 486 00:22:58,740 --> 00:23:01,559 example however other ropes did not 487 00:23:01,559 --> 00:23:04,919 change in diameter next I tested how 488 00:23:04,919 --> 00:23:07,380 smooth the ropes run through belaying 489 00:23:07,380 --> 00:23:10,140 devices and here my findings were mixed 490 00:23:10,140 --> 00:23:13,320 again some of the ropes got sticky they 491 00:23:13,320 --> 00:23:15,600 became harder to pull through belaying 492 00:23:15,600 --> 00:23:18,600 device and more likely to lock the blank 493 00:23:18,600 --> 00:23:21,539 device however other ropes got the 494 00:23:21,539 --> 00:23:23,700 opposite result they became more 495 00:23:23,700 --> 00:23:26,580 slippery as if water would lubricate the 496 00:23:26,580 --> 00:23:29,460 billeting device so yes the laying does 497 00:23:29,460 --> 00:23:32,159 change with water however it's unclear 498 00:23:32,159 --> 00:23:34,919 how how the change will affect Europe 499 00:23:34,919 --> 00:23:38,159 and about those other things well 500 00:23:38,159 --> 00:23:40,620 honestly it's unlikely that you will 501 00:23:40,620 --> 00:23:42,659 climb in such a wet conditions long 502 00:23:42,659 --> 00:23:45,419 enough to even have those problems so if 503 00:23:45,419 --> 00:23:49,559 your rope got a bit wet well try it but 504 00:23:49,559 --> 00:23:53,340 if I would be going to cold wet ice 505 00:23:53,340 --> 00:23:57,600 climbing places where people die 506 00:23:57,600 --> 00:24:00,000 um yeah maybe having a treated rope 507 00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:02,340 reduces the chance of dying this is so 508 00:24:02,340 --> 00:24:05,159 hard she put I mean I don't know just 509 00:24:05,159 --> 00:24:07,980 like being in a snowy or icy environment 510 00:24:07,980 --> 00:24:10,140 it's recommended to have the dry 511 00:24:10,140 --> 00:24:11,700 treatment because it's just an extra 512 00:24:11,700 --> 00:24:14,280 safety buffer yeah there is one route in 513 00:24:14,280 --> 00:24:16,980 Spain which crosses a waterfall in 514 00:24:16,980 --> 00:24:18,120 multi-pitch 515 00:24:18,120 --> 00:24:20,400 yeah I mean also if you're climb in very 516 00:24:20,400 --> 00:24:23,340 humid conditions it's Thailand 517 00:24:23,340 --> 00:24:25,919 we go there it's really humid and dry 518 00:24:25,919 --> 00:24:27,919 rope makes sense 519 00:24:27,919 --> 00:24:31,799 interesting so the little details shall 520 00:24:31,799 --> 00:24:33,360 we go to Thailand to do some science 521 00:24:33,360 --> 00:24:36,380 research trip 522 00:24:36,539 --> 00:24:38,640 all right if you found this video 523 00:24:38,640 --> 00:24:41,039 interesting I made the playlist for you 524 00:24:41,039 --> 00:24:42,840 where I was nerding with Mammoth 525 00:24:42,840 --> 00:24:45,240 Engineers on different topics very 526 00:24:45,240 --> 00:24:47,400 interesting topics so thank you Mahmoud 527 00:24:47,400 --> 00:24:49,320 for letting me to periodically come over 528 00:24:49,320 --> 00:24:51,659 and play with your toys and thank you 529 00:24:51,659 --> 00:24:54,240 Adriana for all their rope chemistry 530 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:58,440 explanations and thank you for watching 531 00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:01,580 you in the next one