0:00:00.120,0:00:03.600
this is a dynamic climbing rope one can

0:00:03.600,0:00:07.259
take hundreds of these massive Falls and

0:00:07.259,0:00:10.980
it will still provide a soft Landing for

0:00:10.980,0:00:13.500
the climber Now Let's ignore the blue

0:00:13.500,0:00:16.859
protective shift and pull out the core

0:00:16.859,0:00:19.980
so this white strands is the core of the

0:00:19.980,0:00:22.260
Rope which is responsible for majority

0:00:22.260,0:00:25.560
of rope's strength if I would untwist

0:00:25.560,0:00:28.859
the core strand eventually I would get

0:00:28.859,0:00:31.859
to this thing which is called a

0:00:31.859,0:00:34.920
multi-filament and if I would dig deeper

0:00:34.920,0:00:38.219
and try to separate the smallest part of

0:00:38.219,0:00:41.280
the Rope I would get to a single

0:00:41.280,0:00:46.980
filament which I can barely see so this

0:00:46.980,0:00:49.739
is a single filament

0:00:49.739,0:00:52.440
so this filament is about 10 times

0:00:52.440,0:00:54.719
thinner than the human hair and there is

0:00:54.719,0:00:58.079
about 50 to 80

0:00:58.079,0:01:01.260
000 of them in a single rope and all of

0:01:01.260,0:01:03.780
them run across entire length of the

0:01:03.780,0:01:06.659
Rope now during the fall this filaments

0:01:06.659,0:01:10.020
stretch but also they slide past each

0:01:10.020,0:01:12.780
other which creates friction and this

0:01:12.780,0:01:15.240
friction helps to dampen the impact

0:01:15.240,0:01:18.060
however if we would make a rope wet

0:01:18.060,0:01:20.700
water on the surface of the filaments

0:01:20.700,0:01:22.979
would act as a lubricant this would

0:01:22.979,0:01:25.680
allow the filaments to slide easier past

0:01:25.680,0:01:27.720
each other which would reduce the

0:01:27.720,0:01:30.479
dampening effect also you can probably

0:01:30.479,0:01:33.000
imagine that as I want to stretch the

0:01:33.000,0:01:36.000
Rope out it needs to shrink in diameter

0:01:36.000,0:01:39.119
however if the Rope is full of water in

0:01:39.119,0:01:42.240
order to shrink in diameter first it

0:01:42.240,0:01:45.600
needs to spit the water out however if

0:01:45.600,0:01:48.000
the impact is hard enough the water

0:01:48.000,0:01:51.360
cannot Escape faster it's like when you

0:01:51.360,0:01:53.520
belly flop on the water and the water

0:01:53.520,0:01:55.560
doesn't have enough time to flow around

0:01:55.560,0:01:58.680
your body and things get even more

0:01:58.680,0:02:01.140
interesting from here if we would look

0:02:01.140,0:02:04.619
deeper deep deep inside the filament we

0:02:04.619,0:02:07.799
would find this but don't worry the only

0:02:07.799,0:02:09.539
thing you need to know that this is a

0:02:09.539,0:02:12.540
monomer which joins together to form a

0:02:12.540,0:02:15.540
polymer chain and this chain can be very

0:02:15.540,0:02:19.500
long very very long which is really

0:02:19.500,0:02:23.099
great for making filament fiber and this

0:02:23.099,0:02:25.260
is where things get interesting notice

0:02:25.260,0:02:27.900
that some parts of this fiber are

0:02:27.900,0:02:31.140
arranged neatly in order these parts are

0:02:31.140,0:02:34.140
called crystalline and they have polymer

0:02:34.140,0:02:37.200
chains packed so close together that

0:02:37.200,0:02:39.540
they form an attraction for each other

0:02:39.540,0:02:42.420
and this happens because hydrogen from

0:02:42.420,0:02:45.420
one chain really likes the oxygen from

0:02:45.420,0:02:47.760
the other chain so all of this makes

0:02:47.760,0:02:50.519
these parts really strong with which is

0:02:50.519,0:02:52.140
great for the strength of the Rope

0:02:52.140,0:02:55.560
however it also makes these parts really

0:02:55.560,0:02:58.379
stiff which is not so great when you

0:02:58.379,0:03:01.319
want your dynamic rope to stretch and

0:03:01.319,0:03:03.300
that's what these other parts that look

0:03:03.300,0:03:06.000
like spaghettis are four they are called

0:03:06.000,0:03:08.760
amorphous and they have much bigger gaps

0:03:08.760,0:03:11.340
between the chains which allows them to

0:03:11.340,0:03:12.360
stretch

0:03:12.360,0:03:14.340
so when the force is applied on the

0:03:14.340,0:03:17.640
fiber these spaghetti Parts stretch and

0:03:17.640,0:03:19.680
the crystalline Parts provide the

0:03:19.680,0:03:22.800
strength you can probably imagine that a

0:03:22.800,0:03:24.900
very stiff rope

0:03:24.900,0:03:27.959
wouldn't be great for climbing but

0:03:27.959,0:03:30.000
neither the Rope which would stretch too

0:03:30.000,0:03:32.599
much because when I fall I want to land

0:03:32.599,0:03:36.000
not on the ground so by controlling the

0:03:36.000,0:03:38.459
ratio between spaghettis and crystalline

0:03:38.459,0:03:41.819
Parts rope manufacturers can create this

0:03:41.819,0:03:44.700
great strength but at the same time

0:03:44.700,0:03:48.299
perfect Force absorption which is quite

0:03:48.299,0:03:50.760
impressive now remember I said that

0:03:50.760,0:03:53.760
hydrogen really likes the oxygen guess

0:03:53.760,0:03:56.280
what else has a lot of hydrogen and

0:03:56.280,0:04:00.180
oxygen that's right water good news is

0:04:00.180,0:04:02.640
that water cannot really penetrate into

0:04:02.640,0:04:04.860
the crystalline parts of the fiber

0:04:04.860,0:04:07.620
because the chains there are very packed

0:04:07.620,0:04:10.620
close together already however spaghetti

0:04:10.620,0:04:13.860
Parts have gaps and that allows water to

0:04:13.860,0:04:16.859
come in and bond to the chains and this

0:04:16.859,0:04:19.079
bonding increases the distance between

0:04:19.079,0:04:21.720
the chains and it also weakens the

0:04:21.720,0:04:24.900
intermolecular attraction so now if the

0:04:24.900,0:04:27.120
the force is applied when the fiber is

0:04:27.120,0:04:30.540
wet spaghettis might stretch more than

0:04:30.540,0:04:32.660
what they are capable to recover from

0:04:32.660,0:04:35.460
and that might damage the entire

0:04:35.460,0:04:39.600
structure of the fiber but all of that

0:04:39.600,0:04:43.139
is in theory so let's see if that theory

0:04:43.139,0:04:45.180
applies to real world climbing

0:04:45.180,0:04:47.720
situations

0:04:49.930,0:04:52.440
[Music]

0:04:52.440,0:04:53.880
and if you're wondering who goes

0:04:53.880,0:04:56.820
climbing in the rain well this was my

0:04:56.820,0:04:59.400
birthday and we came up with a brilliant

0:04:59.400,0:05:03.360
idea to climb 34 routes in a day and

0:05:03.360,0:05:07.100
half of the day was raining

0:05:08.160,0:05:10.620
so yeah let's say I have some wet

0:05:10.620,0:05:14.160
experiences but my anecdotal experiences

0:05:14.160,0:05:17.220
are not science and to do proper science

0:05:17.220,0:05:19.800
I needed to go to the place where the

0:05:19.800,0:05:23.470
ropes are properly tested

0:05:23.470,0:05:31.500
[Music]

0:05:31.880,0:05:34.530
[ __ ] there's a lot coming out

0:05:34.530,0:05:36.919
[Music]

0:05:36.919,0:05:40.160
that's a lot

0:05:40.160,0:05:44.340
and before we begin a strange fact I

0:05:44.340,0:05:46.740
checked a lot of user manuals of dynamic

0:05:46.740,0:05:49.740
climbing ropes from various Brands and

0:05:49.740,0:05:52.740
about half of them have various warnings

0:05:52.740,0:05:55.740
about wet drops however the other half

0:05:55.740,0:05:58.020
doesn't mention anything

0:05:58.020,0:06:02.360
hmm okay so here is the question

0:06:02.360,0:06:06.600
will dry rope cause harder catch on

0:06:06.600,0:06:09.060
realistic fault scenario

0:06:09.060,0:06:12.960
well we would say over time yes in the

0:06:12.960,0:06:15.300
beginning probably not

0:06:15.300,0:06:18.180
so you mean on a first fall maybe not

0:06:18.180,0:06:20.940
yes and on the repeated Falls probably

0:06:20.940,0:06:23.639
yes exactly that's not my first

0:06:23.639,0:06:26.300
statement made

0:06:26.300,0:06:29.160
now since we wanted to mimic real world

0:06:29.160,0:06:31.819
scenarios

0:06:31.819,0:06:35.220
and heartfalls rarely exceed 4

0:06:35.220,0:06:38.039
kilonewtons we needed to modify the drop

0:06:38.039,0:06:40.199
tower to produce the forces between

0:06:40.199,0:06:44.340
three and four kilonewtons

0:06:44.340,0:06:50.100
so we overshoot yes we did buy a lot

0:06:50.100,0:06:51.419
[Music]

0:06:51.419,0:06:52.500
okay

0:06:52.500,0:06:55.620
which took a bit of adjustment on this

0:06:55.620,0:06:58.680
old drop tower Mammoth actually has a

0:06:58.680,0:07:00.900
way more advanced drop tower which I

0:07:00.900,0:07:03.060
already had a pleasure to use when we

0:07:03.060,0:07:05.580
were testing the cut resistance of the

0:07:05.580,0:07:08.580
ropes which was super interesting yeah

0:07:08.580,0:07:10.020
that's easier with the other one because

0:07:10.020,0:07:12.300
it works electronically you can put in

0:07:12.300,0:07:13.860
the number where you want to go and then

0:07:13.860,0:07:15.720
it's aligns it by itself but we are not

0:07:15.720,0:07:18.240
allowed to use it not for the water

0:07:18.240,0:07:20.699
it doesn't like water yeah so this one

0:07:20.699,0:07:22.319
doesn't like the water this one also

0:07:22.319,0:07:24.660
doesn't like weather no as soon as these

0:07:24.660,0:07:26.639
get wet rust will appear off the wall

0:07:26.639,0:07:29.280
and then friction has a big influence on

0:07:29.280,0:07:32.220
the yeah but this one we don't use this

0:07:32.220,0:07:34.800
for any development or production

0:07:34.800,0:07:37.259
control yeah that's why we are allowed

0:07:37.259,0:07:40.759
to make it wet exactly

0:07:43.440,0:07:46.440
4.11

0:07:52.540,0:07:56.599
[Music]

0:07:56.599,0:08:00.620
I've heard you're going like oh

0:08:00.620,0:08:02.960
the frustration

0:08:02.960,0:08:05.639
and not only we needed to make sure that

0:08:05.639,0:08:08.280
our samples are between three and four

0:08:08.280,0:08:11.580
kilonewtons but also that each of them

0:08:11.580,0:08:14.639
is as similar as possible how is it

0:08:14.639,0:08:16.979
going we have a method of how we can

0:08:16.979,0:08:19.440
always make the nuts equal later we will

0:08:19.440,0:08:21.740
have fun

0:08:21.740,0:08:24.120
it's a group activity it's a team

0:08:24.120,0:08:26.639
building yes how many samples do we need

0:08:26.639,0:08:29.160
depends on you how many samples do we

0:08:29.160,0:08:29.879
need

0:08:29.879,0:08:31.740
depends on how many people we have

0:08:31.740,0:08:32.799
making them

0:08:32.799,0:08:35.879
[Music]

0:08:36.779,0:08:39.719
so what's going on equal length is equal

0:08:39.719,0:08:42.599
everything is equal having samples as

0:08:42.599,0:08:45.540
similar as possible was actually really

0:08:45.540,0:08:48.380
important because as Adriana said

0:08:48.380,0:08:52.440
textiles is a very tricky and Moody raw

0:08:52.440,0:08:54.839
material to work with Moody it's very

0:08:54.839,0:08:57.600
moody yes so although we cannot control

0:08:57.600,0:09:00.480
the mood of the Rope but in order to

0:09:00.480,0:09:02.279
make the nice statistics that you're

0:09:02.279,0:09:04.800
gonna see later in this video we needed

0:09:04.800,0:09:07.220
to try our best

0:09:07.220,0:09:10.560
too long so basically we are massaging

0:09:10.560,0:09:13.260
back and forth to get uh yeah it's what

0:09:13.260,0:09:16.320
we in German call it Sisyphus are bite

0:09:16.320,0:09:21.420
no we got it you think so if not it's

0:09:21.420,0:09:24.120
time for lunch

0:09:24.120,0:09:27.920
either we succeed or we eat

0:09:27.920,0:09:31.339
everybody click

0:09:32.959,0:09:36.320
three points

0:09:37.100,0:09:39.980
yeah when I was editing this I thought

0:09:39.980,0:09:43.320
wow if you ever wondered how Geeks are

0:09:43.320,0:09:47.040
celebrating life this is a prime example

0:09:47.040,0:09:51.000
anyway the next question was is our test

0:09:51.000,0:09:53.820
setup repeatable meaning will we get

0:09:53.820,0:09:56.279
second fall to be close to the first one

0:09:56.279,0:09:59.700
if we don't get that then we five hours

0:09:59.700,0:10:01.339
more

0:10:01.339,0:10:04.920
don't make a night session work till

0:10:04.920,0:10:06.959
five and then you go bouldering we have

0:10:06.959,0:10:08.399
time limit

0:10:08.399,0:10:10.260
because we need to go bouldering because

0:10:10.260,0:10:13.279
we need to completely

0:10:14.959,0:10:18.959
very nice that's very good very Swiss

0:10:18.959,0:10:21.440
accurate

0:10:21.600,0:10:24.839
our setup was working really well and

0:10:24.839,0:10:28.260
now we needed to collect a lot of data

0:10:28.260,0:10:31.140
this might take if we wait three minutes

0:10:31.140,0:10:33.959
and we do five Falls that's 15 minutes

0:10:33.959,0:10:38.160
just waiting times three times six

0:10:38.160,0:10:39.920
fifteen

0:10:39.920,0:10:43.220
I the eyes are getting bigger and bigger

0:10:43.220,0:10:46.440
and here are the results if we average

0:10:46.440,0:10:49.620
all the samples we get the Baseline of

0:10:49.620,0:10:52.200
how the force is increasing with every

0:10:52.200,0:10:54.899
fall which shows that rope doesn't have

0:10:54.899,0:10:57.660
enough time to fully recover so let's

0:10:57.660,0:10:59.940
see what happens when the ropes are wet

0:10:59.940,0:11:02.459
look how much air is coming out

0:11:02.459,0:11:05.399
all the air is escaping from the Rope

0:11:05.399,0:11:08.040
during the fall the water will be trying

0:11:08.040,0:11:10.860
to escape trying to blast out of Europe

0:11:10.860,0:11:13.680
we wanted to do three different tests

0:11:13.680,0:11:17.100
where the ropes were soaked for 1 5 and

0:11:17.100,0:11:19.980
15 minutes and what was interesting that

0:11:19.980,0:11:22.560
fully submerging the Rope for just one

0:11:22.560,0:11:25.380
minute was enough to almost completely

0:11:25.380,0:11:27.779
saturate the Rope meaning that soaking

0:11:27.779,0:11:32.339
for longer did not add any extra weight

0:11:32.339,0:11:35.279
and after we dropped all the wet samples

0:11:35.279,0:11:38.220
and enjoyed the splashing of the water

0:11:38.220,0:11:39.610
everywhere

0:11:39.610,0:11:43.160
[Laughter]

0:11:43.440,0:11:44.660
oh my God

0:11:44.660,0:11:47.339
here are the results since the

0:11:47.339,0:11:49.019
difference in water absorption was

0:11:49.019,0:11:51.779
minimal the forces were actually very

0:11:51.779,0:11:54.360
similar and if we take the average of

0:11:54.360,0:11:57.240
all the wet samples we can see that the

0:11:57.240,0:12:00.120
first fall was only slightly harder

0:12:00.120,0:12:03.000
however the difference increases with

0:12:03.000,0:12:04.860
the subsequent false

0:12:04.860,0:12:07.260
you know it's combining everything to

0:12:07.260,0:12:11.120
family so statistically significant

0:12:11.120,0:12:15.800
very good today we made a page

0:12:16.279,0:12:20.339
science a little future me Interruption

0:12:20.339,0:12:23.459
since I got more information the peak

0:12:23.459,0:12:25.620
forces that we measured obviously do

0:12:25.620,0:12:27.779
contribute to how hard the catch will be

0:12:27.779,0:12:30.660
for the climber however it's not the

0:12:30.660,0:12:32.700
only Factor

0:12:32.700,0:12:34.980
the big Force to the climber usually

0:12:34.980,0:12:38.220
happens around this moment but even on

0:12:38.220,0:12:40.860
the hardest Falls this moment is not

0:12:40.860,0:12:43.320
hard enough for the human body to be a

0:12:43.320,0:12:46.440
problem what is the problem however is

0:12:46.440,0:12:51.079
how hard the climber will hit the wall

0:12:51.959,0:12:54.240
as I mentioned earlier as the Rope is

0:12:54.240,0:12:56.279
stretching the filaments are rubbing

0:12:56.279,0:12:58.680
against each other which dampens the

0:12:58.680,0:13:01.019
energy and and if the Rope would be able

0:13:01.019,0:13:02.880
to absorb all the energy during the fall

0:13:02.880,0:13:06.420
it would stretch and then stop however

0:13:06.420,0:13:08.940
that's not what happens on hard Falls

0:13:08.940,0:13:11.519
normally the Rope will act like a spring

0:13:11.519,0:13:14.760
it will stretch and then bounce back

0:13:14.760,0:13:18.060
that bounce back usually creates more

0:13:18.060,0:13:20.700
energy going towards the wall and if the

0:13:20.700,0:13:22.860
Rope is wet the filaments are sliding

0:13:22.860,0:13:25.500
easier past each other which reduces the

0:13:25.500,0:13:28.500
dampening effect so the bounce back into

0:13:28.500,0:13:31.620
the wall should be harder so I was

0:13:31.620,0:13:34.560
really curious to test this however this

0:13:34.560,0:13:36.480
requires more advanced testing

0:13:36.480,0:13:39.180
facilities but luckily after I left

0:13:39.180,0:13:41.100
Mahmoud did this test in another

0:13:41.100,0:13:44.100
facility and sent me the results here is

0:13:44.100,0:13:46.500
the force graph where the initial Peak

0:13:46.500,0:13:49.680
was said to be around 3.6 kilonewtons

0:13:49.680,0:13:52.680
and after that we can see how the Rope

0:13:52.680,0:13:55.860
bounces couple of times now in the case

0:13:55.860,0:13:58.560
of the wet rope the peak is only

0:13:58.560,0:14:01.320
slightly higher however the spring

0:14:01.320,0:14:05.519
effect is much higher and this is the

0:14:05.519,0:14:08.180
same graph after five consecutive Falls

0:14:08.180,0:14:12.440
the initial Peak was 23 percent harder

0:14:12.440,0:14:16.680
however the bounce was much harder so

0:14:16.680,0:14:19.800
the spring effect was much bigger

0:14:19.800,0:14:22.740
alright so far we confirmed that wet

0:14:22.740,0:14:26.279
robes might cause harder Falls but also

0:14:26.279,0:14:29.279
according to the theory wet drops might

0:14:29.279,0:14:31.500
lead to some permanent damage to the

0:14:31.500,0:14:32.519
Rope

0:14:32.519,0:14:35.160
let's see so we left the last rope

0:14:35.160,0:14:36.720
hanging overnight

0:14:36.720,0:14:40.139
so technically now it's dry and

0:14:40.139,0:14:43.320
um and rested

0:14:43.320,0:14:46.139
so we dropped this rope once again and

0:14:46.139,0:14:49.199
the fall was harder compared to the

0:14:49.199,0:14:51.899
Baseline which definitely hints that

0:14:51.899,0:14:54.600
there was some permanent damage done to

0:14:54.600,0:14:57.720
the Rope alright so far so good and

0:14:57.720,0:14:59.940
there was two more experiments I wanted

0:14:59.940,0:15:03.060
to make first of all we did all our

0:15:03.060,0:15:05.940
tests on classic ropes so I was curious

0:15:05.940,0:15:08.760
how dried treated ropes would perform on

0:15:08.760,0:15:10.920
the same tests and in case you don't

0:15:10.920,0:15:13.199
know dry treated ropes are soaked in

0:15:13.199,0:15:16.620
certain chemicals that make them more

0:15:16.620,0:15:21.000
water resistant our dry ropes we add the

0:15:21.000,0:15:24.060
chemical first to the core so to the

0:15:24.060,0:15:26.519
strands they get a drop application then

0:15:26.519,0:15:28.980
we braid the rope together and then we

0:15:28.980,0:15:31.620
submerge it in a chemical bath and we

0:15:31.620,0:15:34.320
take it out and we dry it and then you

0:15:34.320,0:15:36.600
have a dry roll so basically core is

0:15:36.600,0:15:38.880
separately submerged into chemical and

0:15:38.880,0:15:42.060
then entire rope now the cooler get a

0:15:42.060,0:15:44.220
drop application you need

0:15:44.220,0:15:46.920
just a little drop every every couple

0:15:46.920,0:15:50.760
seconds is enough to make it uh water

0:15:50.760,0:15:53.040
resistant interesting and then the

0:15:53.040,0:15:55.380
entire rope goes into the thing yeah

0:15:55.380,0:15:58.019
when it's finished so let's see how good

0:15:58.019,0:16:01.500
that treatment is in practice

0:16:01.500,0:16:06.120
[Music]

0:16:06.120,0:16:08.519
so at first we did a lot of drops

0:16:08.519,0:16:11.040
without water and that allowed us to

0:16:11.040,0:16:13.680
compare treated tropes with classic ones

0:16:13.680,0:16:15.899
and it was good to see that treatment

0:16:15.899,0:16:18.899
has no negative effect when the ropes

0:16:18.899,0:16:21.600
are dry so let's see if it has a

0:16:21.600,0:16:23.639
positive effect when the ropes are wet

0:16:23.639,0:16:27.000
number two number two you want to get

0:16:27.000,0:16:28.860
the shot of how

0:16:28.860,0:16:32.940
treated robes Stone bubble or duvet

0:16:32.940,0:16:36.779
bubble wait maybe I don't want to

0:16:36.779,0:16:39.180
look it doesn't bubble as much as the

0:16:39.180,0:16:40.680
other one

0:16:40.680,0:16:43.620
what if you squeeze it a bit but no

0:16:43.620,0:16:45.740
squeezing

0:16:45.740,0:16:48.720
and yes dry treated ropes absorbed

0:16:48.720,0:16:51.079
significantly less water

0:16:51.079,0:16:54.779
ah I know what can be the problem that

0:16:54.779,0:16:57.899
ends I see bubbles coming from the ends

0:16:57.899,0:17:00.000
a little bit although we sealed the ends

0:17:00.000,0:17:02.339
but most of the bubbles are coming from

0:17:02.339,0:17:04.980
the tip of the Rope maybe I'm gonna keep

0:17:04.980,0:17:07.740
that tip just a little bit out

0:17:07.740,0:17:09.720
yeah I mean you can always have like

0:17:09.720,0:17:12.600
little holes where it could get in with

0:17:12.600,0:17:14.819
these kind of things if it's not seared

0:17:14.819,0:17:16.559
well in the end you have like a

0:17:16.559,0:17:18.600
capillary effect of that the water

0:17:18.600,0:17:22.199
traveled along the fiber okay let's see

0:17:22.199,0:17:25.100
I'm super curious

0:17:25.630,0:17:27.480
[Music]

0:17:27.480,0:17:30.780
wow there was no splash of water

0:17:30.780,0:17:32.940
and here is the treated rope that we

0:17:32.940,0:17:35.700
soaked for 15 minutes as you can see

0:17:35.700,0:17:37.919
there is still barely any water coming

0:17:37.919,0:17:40.320
out of it and if we would compare this

0:17:40.320,0:17:43.200
to the classic ropes the difference is

0:17:43.200,0:17:46.039
huge

0:17:48.960,0:17:53.160
we're still here collecting the data

0:17:53.160,0:17:56.220
Never Ending Story how are we feeling to

0:17:56.220,0:17:57.600
you

0:17:57.600,0:17:58.380
yeah

0:17:58.380,0:18:02.039
here stopped for climbing and when it

0:18:02.039,0:18:04.200
comes to the treated tropes soaking them

0:18:04.200,0:18:07.260
up to 5 minutes showed no increase in

0:18:07.260,0:18:10.140
forces however soaking for 15 minutes

0:18:10.140,0:18:13.919
already was worse but not as bad

0:18:13.919,0:18:17.160
compared to the classic ropes so dried

0:18:17.160,0:18:19.260
treated ropes unsurprisingly were

0:18:19.260,0:18:21.120
performing better in wet conditions

0:18:21.120,0:18:23.820
however I know that many of you myself

0:18:23.820,0:18:27.299
included had a question how long does

0:18:27.299,0:18:30.360
dry treatment stay effective does it

0:18:30.360,0:18:34.140
wear off so this is a used truck that I

0:18:34.140,0:18:37.620
used for about a year actively almost

0:18:37.620,0:18:40.140
climbing every second or every third day

0:18:40.140,0:18:43.260
so we could get a sample of this

0:18:43.260,0:18:45.900
yeah that's it this orange rope that I

0:18:45.900,0:18:47.700
brought is actually perfect for our

0:18:47.700,0:18:50.039
comparisons because it's exactly the

0:18:50.039,0:18:52.440
same rope as the one we already tested

0:18:52.440,0:18:55.260
the only difference is the color

0:18:55.260,0:18:57.780
at first we did the test without water

0:18:57.780,0:19:00.360
so that we could compare how much

0:19:00.360,0:19:03.120
stiffer old rope gets compared to the

0:19:03.120,0:19:05.460
new one and to my surprise the

0:19:05.460,0:19:08.160
difference was very minimal one note

0:19:08.160,0:19:10.500
here is that we selected the test sample

0:19:10.500,0:19:12.660
from the middle of the rope that part of

0:19:12.660,0:19:15.240
the Rope usually is the least damaged

0:19:15.240,0:19:17.880
but that's good to know that if your

0:19:17.880,0:19:19.620
ends of the Rope are damaged and you

0:19:19.620,0:19:21.900
chop them off the rest of the Rope

0:19:21.900,0:19:23.660
should perform really well

0:19:23.660,0:19:25.679
[Music]

0:19:25.679,0:19:27.140
yeah

0:19:27.140,0:19:30.660
oh it's bubbling much more than new

0:19:30.660,0:19:34.140
ropes yeah and yes old rope absorbed

0:19:34.140,0:19:36.780
more water however it still performed

0:19:36.780,0:19:38.520
better compared to the classic rope

0:19:38.520,0:19:42.120
being new treated rope soaked for five

0:19:42.120,0:19:44.220
minutes let's see how it how well it

0:19:44.220,0:19:44.650
served

0:19:44.650,0:19:47.250
[Laughter]

0:19:47.250,0:19:53.249
[Music]

0:19:53.580,0:19:56.700
we actually washed the Rope but you can

0:19:56.700,0:19:59.580
still see that the water which comes out

0:19:59.580,0:20:00.539
of it

0:20:00.539,0:20:03.480
is still grayish a little bit

0:20:03.480,0:20:06.000
coming out does it hurt so you want to

0:20:06.000,0:20:07.520
blend my washing machine

0:20:07.520,0:20:10.320
and this is what happened with the wet

0:20:10.320,0:20:12.660
old rope the first fall was actually

0:20:12.660,0:20:16.140
identical which is very nice and then

0:20:16.140,0:20:18.360
the subsequent folds again had an

0:20:18.360,0:20:20.520
increase in forces

0:20:20.520,0:20:23.400
and if we would compare all wet drops

0:20:23.400,0:20:26.100
this is what we get

0:20:26.100,0:20:28.380
and the only thing missing here that we

0:20:28.380,0:20:31.260
had no time to do would be to test old

0:20:31.260,0:20:33.600
classic robes

0:20:33.600,0:20:36.960
so yes treated robes do lose their water

0:20:36.960,0:20:40.440
repellent magic Over time however they

0:20:40.440,0:20:42.360
still perform better compared to the

0:20:42.360,0:20:46.140
classic ropes however there is still one

0:20:46.140,0:20:48.000
very interesting thing to know let's

0:20:48.000,0:20:50.100
look into water absorption graph again

0:20:50.100,0:20:52.260
notice that classic crops are almost

0:20:52.260,0:20:54.120
fully saturated after five minutes

0:20:54.120,0:20:56.880
however treated tropes even after 15

0:20:56.880,0:20:59.880
minutes still have a trend up so then

0:20:59.880,0:21:01.919
the question is what's the full

0:21:01.919,0:21:05.039
saturation point of treated ropes so I

0:21:05.039,0:21:07.500
asked Adriana to do these tests and here

0:21:07.500,0:21:10.140
are the results turns out that all the

0:21:10.140,0:21:12.360
ropes were trending to the same around

0:21:12.360,0:21:16.020
40 percent level so that means even if

0:21:16.020,0:21:18.179
your rope is dry treated and you put it

0:21:18.179,0:21:20.460
under water and you leave it there for

0:21:20.460,0:21:21.600
long enough

0:21:21.600,0:21:23.700
I don't know why would you do that but

0:21:23.700,0:21:26.280
if you would do that eventually all of

0:21:26.280,0:21:28.520
these tens of thousands of tiny

0:21:28.520,0:21:31.320
filaments in the Rope would act as

0:21:31.320,0:21:34.080
capillaries and the water would find its

0:21:34.080,0:21:36.679
way in and it would probably perform

0:21:36.679,0:21:41.299
similar to the Rope being not treated

0:21:43.919,0:21:47.580
now before some of you will become

0:21:47.580,0:21:49.799
hydrophobic let me add a couple of

0:21:49.799,0:21:52.559
things yes wet ropes are significantly

0:21:52.559,0:21:55.020
heavier which sucks when you're climbing

0:21:55.020,0:21:57.900
and they might wear down quicker both

0:21:57.900,0:22:01.620
from false and from abrasion which sucks

0:22:01.620,0:22:04.020
to your wallet also there is a theory

0:22:04.020,0:22:07.320
that They are thicker with swell from

0:22:07.320,0:22:08.400
water

0:22:08.400,0:22:10.460
let's see

0:22:10.460,0:22:14.039
I soaked this rope for a few hours this

0:22:14.039,0:22:17.520
is supposed to be 9.8 rope and I'm

0:22:17.520,0:22:20.059
measuring

0:22:21.260,0:22:26.419
11.3 let's see the wet spot

0:22:31.380,0:22:32.520
okay

0:22:32.520,0:22:34.740
so I don't see any difference at least

0:22:34.740,0:22:36.840
on this rope which is worn out and it's

0:22:36.840,0:22:39.600
already thicker when it's nominal value

0:22:39.600,0:22:42.840
yeah so I didn't want to leave my fellow

0:22:42.840,0:22:45.360
climbers hanging like that so the next

0:22:45.360,0:22:47.640
day I took a bunch of different used

0:22:47.640,0:22:51.240
ropes soaked them and measured the

0:22:51.240,0:22:53.640
thickness and what I found out is that

0:22:53.640,0:22:56.460
indeed some of the robes did got thicker

0:22:56.460,0:22:58.740
like the green decathlon rope for

0:22:58.740,0:23:01.559
example however other ropes did not

0:23:01.559,0:23:04.919
change in diameter next I tested how

0:23:04.919,0:23:07.380
smooth the ropes run through belaying

0:23:07.380,0:23:10.140
devices and here my findings were mixed

0:23:10.140,0:23:13.320
again some of the ropes got sticky they

0:23:13.320,0:23:15.600
became harder to pull through belaying

0:23:15.600,0:23:18.600
device and more likely to lock the blank

0:23:18.600,0:23:21.539
device however other ropes got the

0:23:21.539,0:23:23.700
opposite result they became more

0:23:23.700,0:23:26.580
slippery as if water would lubricate the

0:23:26.580,0:23:29.460
billeting device so yes the laying does

0:23:29.460,0:23:32.159
change with water however it's unclear

0:23:32.159,0:23:34.919
how how the change will affect Europe

0:23:34.919,0:23:38.159
and about those other things well

0:23:38.159,0:23:40.620
honestly it's unlikely that you will

0:23:40.620,0:23:42.659
climb in such a wet conditions long

0:23:42.659,0:23:45.419
enough to even have those problems so if

0:23:45.419,0:23:49.559
your rope got a bit wet well try it but

0:23:49.559,0:23:53.340
if I would be going to cold wet ice

0:23:53.340,0:23:57.600
climbing places where people die

0:23:57.600,0:24:00.000
um yeah maybe having a treated rope

0:24:00.000,0:24:02.340
reduces the chance of dying this is so

0:24:02.340,0:24:05.159
hard she put I mean I don't know just

0:24:05.159,0:24:07.980
like being in a snowy or icy environment

0:24:07.980,0:24:10.140
it's recommended to have the dry

0:24:10.140,0:24:11.700
treatment because it's just an extra

0:24:11.700,0:24:14.280
safety buffer yeah there is one route in

0:24:14.280,0:24:16.980
Spain which crosses a waterfall in

0:24:16.980,0:24:18.120
multi-pitch

0:24:18.120,0:24:20.400
yeah I mean also if you're climb in very

0:24:20.400,0:24:23.340
humid conditions it's Thailand

0:24:23.340,0:24:25.919
we go there it's really humid and dry

0:24:25.919,0:24:27.919
rope makes sense

0:24:27.919,0:24:31.799
interesting so the little details shall

0:24:31.799,0:24:33.360
we go to Thailand to do some science

0:24:33.360,0:24:36.380
research trip

0:24:36.539,0:24:38.640
all right if you found this video

0:24:38.640,0:24:41.039
interesting I made the playlist for you

0:24:41.039,0:24:42.840
where I was nerding with Mammoth

0:24:42.840,0:24:45.240
Engineers on different topics very

0:24:45.240,0:24:47.400
interesting topics so thank you Mahmoud

0:24:47.400,0:24:49.320
for letting me to periodically come over

0:24:49.320,0:24:51.659
and play with your toys and thank you

0:24:51.659,0:24:54.240
Adriana for all their rope chemistry

0:24:54.240,0:24:58.440
explanations and thank you for watching

0:24:58.440,0:25:01.580
you in the next one