WEBVTT 00:00:00.120 --> 00:00:02.200 All right, welcome back to the largest 00:00:02.200 --> 00:00:05.120 study on climbing falls. In the first 00:00:05.120 --> 00:00:08.360 episode we looked how does extra slack 00:00:08.360 --> 00:00:11.320 affect the fall, or more precisely does 00:00:11.320 --> 00:00:14.320 falling more reduce the pendulum into 00:00:14.320 --> 00:00:16.520 the wall and how hard the climber is 00:00:16.520 --> 00:00:18.840 going to hit the wall, and then I showed 00:00:18.840 --> 00:00:21.640 you the importance of soft catch and 00:00:21.640 --> 00:00:25.359 what a massive difference that makes and 00:00:25.359 --> 00:00:28.400 also that hard catches are not only the 00:00:28.400 --> 00:00:30.599 problem for heavier belayers 00:00:30.599 --> 00:00:33.320 lighter belayers often lack practice to 00:00:33.320 --> 00:00:35.760 give soft catches since most of the time 00:00:35.760 --> 00:00:38.920 they don't need they fly up anyway but 00:00:38.920 --> 00:00:41.120 in exceptional cases with enough 00:00:41.120 --> 00:00:44.039 friction... -My foot -What happened to your 00:00:44.039 --> 00:00:49.000 foot -Well it was a hard fall - Heavey belayer? 00:00:49.000 --> 00:00:52.840 -Llight belayer. Yeah yeah and I also 00:00:52.840 --> 00:00:55.320 asked you guys I'm curious did you ever 00:00:55.320 --> 00:00:58.600 got unexpectedly hard catch from a light 00:00:58.600 --> 00:01:01.879 belayer? And turns out this happens more 00:01:01.879 --> 00:01:03.400 often than I 00:01:03.400 --> 00:01:06.040 thought. so yeah light or heavy you're 00:01:06.040 --> 00:01:08.119 going to love this episode because we're 00:01:08.119 --> 00:01:10.320 going to investigate which method of 00:01:10.320 --> 00:01:12.920 giving soft catch is the best. We're 00:01:12.920 --> 00:01:16.000 going to compare stepping forward versus 00:01:16.000 --> 00:01:19.000 jumping up and as a bonus the tube slide 00:01:19.000 --> 00:01:21.119 method where the belayer lets the rope 00:01:21.119 --> 00:01:23.040 slide through the device which is more 00:01:23.040 --> 00:01:24.799 common in trad 00:01:24.799 --> 00:01:27.920 climbing so let's begin. Now in the 00:01:27.920 --> 00:01:30.000 previous episode I showed you this 00:01:30.000 --> 00:01:32.799 beautiful horizontal velocity graphs and 00:01:32.799 --> 00:01:35.720 I explained that the peak of horizontal 00:01:35.720 --> 00:01:38.240 velocity is at the bottom of the 00:01:38.240 --> 00:01:40.720 pendulum and that is a good indicator 00:01:40.720 --> 00:01:44.159 how hard the climber would meet the wall 00:01:44.159 --> 00:01:46.960 if the wall would not be overhanging and 00:01:46.960 --> 00:01:49.200 in this test I wanted to go a step 00:01:49.200 --> 00:01:51.600 further and see what happens when the 00:01:51.600 --> 00:01:56.759 climber meets the wall. - 1... 2... 3... 00:01:56.920 --> 00:01:59.840 and my idea this time was to 00:01:59.840 --> 00:02:03.600 measure deceleration during the impact 00:02:03.600 --> 00:02:06.840 and in many of our test cases 00:02:06.840 --> 00:02:09.840 this idea was working really well. If we 00:02:09.840 --> 00:02:13.000 compare the soft catches to the hard one 00:02:13.000 --> 00:02:16.000 you can see a huge spike in 00:02:16.000 --> 00:02:18.800 deceleration. However after doing lots 00:02:18.800 --> 00:02:21.440 and lots of more falls and analyzing the 00:02:21.440 --> 00:02:23.840 data I realized that the peak 00:02:23.840 --> 00:02:26.959 deceleration is not always a good metric 00:02:26.959 --> 00:02:29.480 to look. for example take a look at this 00:02:29.480 --> 00:02:32.080 hard catch you can visually see that it 00:02:32.080 --> 00:02:35.080 was much harder for the climber but the 00:02:35.080 --> 00:02:38.200 peak deceleration was nearly identical 00:02:38.200 --> 00:02:41.159 to the soft catches before, so it turns 00:02:41.159 --> 00:02:44.519 out our soft bodies are incredible at 00:02:44.519 --> 00:02:45.800 absorbing 00:02:45.800 --> 00:02:48.400 impacts but the problem is that it's 00:02:48.400 --> 00:02:50.080 very difficult to measure what's 00:02:50.080 --> 00:02:52.319 happening in our muscles during this 00:02:52.319 --> 00:02:54.959 impact. So while peak deceleration was 00:02:54.959 --> 00:02:57.040 interesting to look in some cases, 00:02:57.040 --> 00:02:59.840 horizontal velocity at the moment of 00:02:59.840 --> 00:03:03.280 impact was much better indicator. After 00:03:03.280 --> 00:03:05.560 all, all of this velocity that we are 00:03:05.560 --> 00:03:08.239 about to hit the wall will need to be 00:03:08.239 --> 00:03:12.200 absorbed by our soft bodies. Okay so 00:03:12.200 --> 00:03:14.400 let's see which method to give a soft 00:03:14.400 --> 00:03:17.599 catch is the best. To not kill me on the 00:03:17.599 --> 00:03:20.280 very first test we started with smaller 00:03:20.280 --> 00:03:24.200 falls and jumping up technique. And these 00:03:24.200 --> 00:03:28.319 falls were extremely nice and soft. NOTE Paragraph 00:03:30.360 --> 00:03:33.799 [Climber] - A soft ride! So let's see how stepping 00:03:33.799 --> 00:03:38.080 forward will compare. [Climber] - 1... 2... 3... 00:03:38.080 --> 00:03:41.680 - This is harder. And the fall this time 00:03:41.680 --> 00:03:45.159 felt a little bit harder and we can also 00:03:45.159 --> 00:03:48.480 see that in the graphs. However overall 00:03:48.480 --> 00:03:50.920 it was still a very soft catch. 00:03:50.920 --> 00:03:54.840 And the second fall was very similar. 00:03:54.840 --> 00:03:58.040 Also a quick note: I was not sure 00:03:58.040 --> 00:04:01.040 how much stiffer the rope gets over 00:04:01.040 --> 00:04:03.640 multiple falls, and even though in this 00:04:03.640 --> 00:04:06.079 video I'm presenting you all the data 00:04:06.079 --> 00:04:08.879 grouped by method, meaning at first I 00:04:08.879 --> 00:04:10.879 show you all the soft catches with 00:04:10.879 --> 00:04:13.480 jumping up method, then I show you all 00:04:13.480 --> 00:04:15.760 the soft catches with stepping forward, 00:04:15.760 --> 00:04:18.519 in reality we did alternate between the 00:04:18.519 --> 00:04:21.320 methods between every fall. So we did a 00:04:21.320 --> 00:04:23.919 jumping up and then stepping forward, etc. 00:04:23.919 --> 00:04:26.280 Pointless information for most of 00:04:26.280 --> 00:04:28.720 you, but I know that a lot of geeks are 00:04:28.720 --> 00:04:30.919 watching my videos and we like to write 00:04:30.919 --> 00:04:34.240 nitpicky comments, so this is for you 00:04:34.240 --> 00:04:37.280 nitpicky geek. All right now let's see 00:04:37.280 --> 00:04:40.479 how the tube slide method compares and 00:04:40.479 --> 00:04:42.520 while I was expecting a lot from this 00:04:42.520 --> 00:04:47.240 method, the first fall wasn't any better. 00:04:47.240 --> 00:04:50.039 The second fall had a very low momentum 00:04:50.039 --> 00:04:53.600 into the wall but a lot of vertical 00:04:53.600 --> 00:04:56.800 momentum, which made me almost run across 00:04:56.800 --> 00:04:58.840 the wall, which was slightly 00:04:58.840 --> 00:05:02.080 uncomfortable. So we tried again and this 00:05:02.080 --> 00:05:06.000 time the fall was much nicer and I know 00:05:06.000 --> 00:05:08.160 that people like to try all the crazy 00:05:08.160 --> 00:05:10.479 things they see on the internet so 00:05:10.479 --> 00:05:12.160 that's why I have to stress that this 00:05:12.160 --> 00:05:14.960 tube slide method is really advanced, so 00:05:14.960 --> 00:05:17.360 if you don't know what you're doing, make 00:05:17.360 --> 00:05:20.400 sure that you have an expert guiding you. 00:05:20.400 --> 00:05:22.360 Now if we would compare all the best 00:05:22.360 --> 00:05:24.919 attempts of all the methods, we can see 00:05:24.919 --> 00:05:28.000 that the jumping up was slightly better 00:05:28.000 --> 00:05:30.919 but overall all the method were very 00:05:30.919 --> 00:05:34.280 similar. [Climber] - So all of these falls felt quite 00:05:34.280 --> 00:05:36.240 soft except the one where he does 00:05:36.240 --> 00:05:39.960 nothing, then I fell to the wall. 00:05:39.960 --> 00:05:42.199 Yeah we actually forgot to film hard catches 00:05:42.199 --> 00:05:44.080 where the belayer does nothing on this 00:05:44.080 --> 00:05:46.919 test, but no worries this was just a 00:05:46.919 --> 00:05:50.220 small warm-up. And let's see some bigger falls. 00:05:50.220 --> 00:05:52.240 So this time we started with a 00:05:52.240 --> 00:05:53.880 tube slide method, 00:05:53.880 --> 00:05:56.790 which at least in theory, lets the belayer achieve 00:05:56.790 --> 00:05:58.700 any full arc. 00:05:58.700 --> 00:06:00.960 And here is one more attempt 00:06:00.960 --> 00:06:04.600 this time with even bigger arc or longer 00:06:04.600 --> 00:06:07.800 braking distance, and the fall was just 00:06:07.800 --> 00:06:10.880 tiny bit softer for the climber. For now 00:06:10.880 --> 00:06:12.639 I'm just going to keep the softest 00:06:12.639 --> 00:06:15.039 attempt in the charts and let's see how 00:06:15.039 --> 00:06:17.880 does that compare to the jumping up 00:06:17.880 --> 00:06:20.520 technique. And we can see that the first 00:06:20.520 --> 00:06:24.479 fall was slightly smaller, however it had 00:06:24.479 --> 00:06:27.520 nearly identical horizontal acceleration 00:06:27.520 --> 00:06:31.319 and velocity. However it also had lower 00:06:31.319 --> 00:06:33.960 absolute velocity, which is actually 00:06:33.960 --> 00:06:36.680 better for the climber. Now the second 00:06:36.680 --> 00:06:40.919 fall was slightly smaller but had a tiny bit 00:06:40.919 --> 00:06:43.800 more horizontal velocity towards the wall 00:06:43.800 --> 00:06:46.240 and again let's keep the best 00:06:46.240 --> 00:06:49.039 attempts of each method and see how does 00:06:49.039 --> 00:06:53.160 that compare to the stepping forward technique. 00:06:53.160 --> 00:06:55.840 And we can see that the fall 00:06:55.840 --> 00:06:59.440 was smallest however it had the greatest 00:06:59.440 --> 00:07:02.599 impact to the wall. Now on the second 00:07:02.599 --> 00:07:05.919 attempt the belayer did a much better job 00:07:05.919 --> 00:07:09.560 and the fall was significantly softer. 00:07:09.560 --> 00:07:11.479 And if we compare all the best attempts 00:07:11.479 --> 00:07:13.680 of all the methods, we can see that the 00:07:13.680 --> 00:07:16.680 horizontal speed at the moment of impact 00:07:16.680 --> 00:07:19.879 was nearly identical. Which means that at 00:07:19.879 --> 00:07:21.759 least in this test case scenario, 00:07:21.759 --> 00:07:24.280 a skilled belayer can achieve almost the 00:07:24.280 --> 00:07:27.440 same results with any method. But since 00:07:27.440 --> 00:07:29.879 consistency in catches also matters, 00:07:29.879 --> 00:07:33.440 if we compare the worst attempts, tube slide method 00:07:33.440 --> 00:07:35.800 was the best, followed by jumping up, 00:07:35.800 --> 00:07:39.000 and then the stepping forward was the worst. 00:07:39.000 --> 00:07:42.479 However even the worst cases of 00:07:42.479 --> 00:07:45.440 any of these methods were much much 00:07:45.440 --> 00:07:49.280 better compared to the passive belay. 00:07:49.280 --> 00:07:52.120 So the first arising takeaway was that no 00:07:52.120 --> 00:07:54.199 matter which method you choose to give a 00:07:54.199 --> 00:07:57.039 soft catch, it's going to be much better 00:07:57.039 --> 00:07:58.960 than passively standing and doing 00:07:58.960 --> 00:07:59.960 nothing. 00:07:59.960 --> 00:08:03.280 And as always one test is no test, so I 00:08:03.280 --> 00:08:05.400 wanted to repeat these tests in a 00:08:05.400 --> 00:08:08.159 different location with another belayer. 00:08:08.159 --> 00:08:11.599 Ricky who has also a lot of experience 00:08:11.599 --> 00:08:14.319 using this tube slide method, and he told 00:08:14.319 --> 00:08:16.940 me that it's actually his preferred method. 00:08:16.940 --> 00:08:19.599 So, high expectations. 00:08:19.839 --> 00:08:21.641 [Climber] - Two, three... - Okay 00:08:21.641 --> 00:08:23.400 - Falling! 00:08:24.130 --> 00:08:26.100 - Aw, that was super soft! 00:08:27.662 --> 00:08:31.950 So we did three attempts, and all of them had very similar 00:08:31.950 --> 00:08:35.789 horizontal velocity. Nice, for consistency. 00:08:35.789 --> 00:08:38.240 Next we tested the stepping 00:08:38.240 --> 00:08:40.880 forward method and we can see that the 00:08:40.880 --> 00:08:43.839 fall was much shorter and had a much 00:08:43.839 --> 00:08:46.760 greater swing into the wall. It seemed 00:08:46.760 --> 00:08:48.680 that the belayer was pulled towards the 00:08:48.680 --> 00:08:51.720 wall way too much, and did not have enough 00:08:51.720 --> 00:08:55.379 control to make the fall smooth. 00:08:55.379 --> 00:08:58.200 [Music] 00:09:00.920 --> 00:09:04.079 All right next the jumping up method, 00:09:04.079 --> 00:09:07.200 where Ricky actually did a very bad job 00:09:07.200 --> 00:09:08.880 on the first attempt. 00:09:08.880 --> 00:09:11.279 And the same happened on the 00:09:11.279 --> 00:09:14.680 second attempt where his jump was very 00:09:14.680 --> 00:09:17.800 minimal only initiated a little bit from 00:09:17.800 --> 00:09:20.680 his right calf. So that's not how you 00:09:20.680 --> 00:09:23.480 jump and that's why I decided to ignore 00:09:23.480 --> 00:09:26.669 these two attempts for the poor technique, 00:09:26.669 --> 00:09:29.918 and after he adjusted his technique on the third jump, 00:09:29.920 --> 00:09:33.280 he jumped with both legs and it was much much better. 00:09:34.480 --> 00:09:37.519 And finally we did one passive 00:09:37.519 --> 00:09:40.000 catch where the belayer does nothing and 00:09:40.000 --> 00:09:42.560 same as before, it causes significantly 00:09:42.560 --> 00:09:45.399 higher swing into the wall. So at least 00:09:45.399 --> 00:09:48.200 in this test case scenario, tube slide 00:09:48.200 --> 00:09:51.399 was the best, followed by jumping up, and 00:09:51.399 --> 00:09:54.079 stepping forward was again the worst. 00:09:54.719 --> 00:09:57.000 [Belayer] - So stepping forward versus uh 00:09:57.000 --> 00:10:01.079 jumping up [Climber] - Yes stepping forward was not 00:10:01.079 --> 00:10:04.360 in a controlled way I was just pulled to 00:10:04.360 --> 00:10:07.120 the wall. I tried to lean 00:10:07.120 --> 00:10:11.200 backwards to break to catch the fall 00:10:11.200 --> 00:10:13.519 but it was not in a controlled way, and 00:10:13.519 --> 00:10:15.880 jumping up I can choose how much I want 00:10:15.880 --> 00:10:17.648 to jump and at what timing. 00:10:17.648 --> 00:10:20.800 So overall which method is the best will heavily 00:10:20.800 --> 00:10:22.800 depend on your experience using this 00:10:22.800 --> 00:10:26.000 methods, however stepping forward seemed 00:10:26.000 --> 00:10:29.360 to be the worst and gave the least 00:10:29.360 --> 00:10:32.160 control, and also worth mentioning is 00:10:32.160 --> 00:10:35.399 that standing too far in many situations 00:10:35.399 --> 00:10:37.839 can drag the belayer into the wall 00:10:37.839 --> 00:10:40.090 completely uncontrollably. 00:10:44.510 --> 00:10:48.449 And that would make the catch even harder. 00:10:50.490 --> 00:10:53.120 All right but what if the belayer 00:10:53.120 --> 00:10:56.160 is significantly heavier. In that case if 00:10:56.160 --> 00:10:58.560 you try the jumping method there is not 00:10:58.560 --> 00:11:01.959 much pull up by the rope and jumping is 00:11:01.959 --> 00:11:04.959 much more difficult. So maybe stepping 00:11:04.959 --> 00:11:07.920 forward is better in this case. To test 00:11:07.920 --> 00:11:10.720 that Kishu suggested to introduce extra 00:11:10.720 --> 00:11:12.880 friction which basically makes the 00:11:12.880 --> 00:11:14.500 belayer heavier. 00:11:15.080 --> 00:11:18.040 [Climber] - Can we try like this? [Belayer] - He wants to kill me! 00:11:18.040 --> 00:11:23.040 So that's what we got: a little 00:11:23.040 --> 00:11:25.959 zigzag in the beginning and then a 00:11:25.959 --> 00:11:29.040 straight line all the way to the climber 00:11:29.040 --> 00:11:31.560 so the rope actually is not going over 00:11:31.560 --> 00:11:35.160 the edge it's just very sharp angled. 00:11:35.160 --> 00:11:38.949 - He says you have to fall! 00:11:39.228 --> 00:11:41.721 - One, two, three 00:11:44.365 --> 00:11:49.523 The swing into the wall is... ...okayish. 00:11:49.523 --> 00:11:51.399 So we started with jumping 00:11:51.399 --> 00:11:54.839 method which felt slightly harder with 00:11:54.839 --> 00:12:00.120 increased friction but still plenty soft enough. 00:12:00.120 --> 00:12:02.440 Just take a look at this belayer 00:12:02.440 --> 00:12:05.000 running up the wall and even avoiding 00:12:05.000 --> 00:12:07.399 his arm being squished into the first 00:12:07.399 --> 00:12:11.160 quick draw. So let's see if 00:12:11.160 --> 00:12:13.920 with increased friction stepping forward 00:12:13.920 --> 00:12:16.440 will be better. This time he was not 00:12:16.440 --> 00:12:18.560 pulled into the wall uncontrollably 00:12:18.560 --> 00:12:21.360 anymore. It also looks like he got the 00:12:21.360 --> 00:12:23.959 perfect timing and even started running 00:12:23.959 --> 00:12:27.680 forward just before the impact, however 00:12:27.680 --> 00:12:30.199 the swing into the wall for the climber 00:12:30.199 --> 00:12:33.880 was still harder compared to the jumping 00:12:33.880 --> 00:12:36.959 method. Okay next we did a series of tube 00:12:36.959 --> 00:12:40.240 slide catches. The first felt very nice 00:12:40.240 --> 00:12:43.839 and soft. Now the second fall had even 00:12:43.839 --> 00:12:46.839 softer impact with the wall however I 00:12:46.839 --> 00:12:49.360 still had a lot of momentum downwards 00:12:49.360 --> 00:12:52.240 which forced me almost to run down the wall 00:12:52.240 --> 00:12:53.680 which is a little bit awkward. 00:12:53.680 --> 00:12:56.720 And the last fall had a very 00:12:56.720 --> 00:12:58.702 similar effect 00:12:59.440 --> 00:13:01.639 And if we look into the best cases for 00:13:01.639 --> 00:13:04.360 each method we can see that jumping up 00:13:04.360 --> 00:13:07.399 and tube slide were very very similar, 00:13:07.399 --> 00:13:10.240 and the stepping forward was slightly 00:13:10.240 --> 00:13:13.120 worse. And this bar chart plots all the 00:13:13.120 --> 00:13:16.839 falls so we can see that on average, tube 00:13:16.839 --> 00:13:19.519 slide method performed the best, followed 00:13:19.519 --> 00:13:22.120 by jumping up, and then stepping forward 00:13:22.120 --> 00:13:25.279 was the worst. Now from pure feeling 00:13:25.279 --> 00:13:27.920 standpoint for me as a climber, both 00:13:27.920 --> 00:13:30.839 jumping up and tube slide methods felt 00:13:30.839 --> 00:13:33.720 very nice and soft. Maybe if I would be 00:13:33.720 --> 00:13:37.120 nitpicking this extra momentum downwards 00:13:37.120 --> 00:13:39.120 sometimes on the tube slide method was 00:13:39.120 --> 00:13:41.279 slightly uncomfortable although in 00:13:41.279 --> 00:13:43.680 theory the belayer should be able to give 00:13:43.680 --> 00:13:45.839 almost any kind of catch with this 00:13:45.839 --> 00:13:49.040 method and the stepping forward method 00:13:49.040 --> 00:13:51.800 was maybe slightly harder, had slightly 00:13:51.800 --> 00:13:54.600 bigger impact to the wall however it was 00:13:54.600 --> 00:13:57.800 still plenty soft enough. And what is not 00:13:57.800 --> 00:14:01.759 soft enough is passive belays. So once 00:14:01.759 --> 00:14:04.399 again, no matter which soft catch method 00:14:04.399 --> 00:14:07.639 we tried it was significantly better 00:14:07.639 --> 00:14:10.959 than passive belay. And with added friction 00:14:10.959 --> 00:14:13.440 the belayer wasn't even lifted off the 00:14:13.440 --> 00:14:16.120 ground this time. Previously when we had 00:14:16.120 --> 00:14:18.800 no friction, passive belay looked like 00:14:18.800 --> 00:14:22.320 this: the belayer was still pulled up but 00:14:22.320 --> 00:14:25.240 now with extra friction, that is not the 00:14:25.240 --> 00:14:27.120 case anymore and you can see how the 00:14:27.120 --> 00:14:29.880 climber is being pulled up and into the 00:14:29.880 --> 00:14:32.880 wall even harder. 00:14:34.839 --> 00:14:38.480 [Climber] - Okay that was... 00:14:38.480 --> 00:14:42.120 ... that was the way it was. 00:14:42.120 --> 00:14:44.839 So yeah don't forget to subscribe, I might need 00:14:44.839 --> 00:14:47.399 advertisement money to fix my broken 00:14:47.399 --> 00:14:51.639 body at old age. [Climber] - So what's your favorite method? 00:14:51.639 --> 00:14:54.759 [Belayer] - Yeah jumping up, yes 00:14:54.759 --> 00:14:56.959 Okay so we were leaning towards 00:14:56.959 --> 00:15:00.399 jumping as our favorite method, but 00:15:00.399 --> 00:15:03.160 what if the belayer is really really 00:15:03.160 --> 00:15:05.399 heavy, or there is so much friction in 00:15:05.399 --> 00:15:08.120 the system that the rope almost doesn't 00:15:08.120 --> 00:15:12.439 pull the belayer up? In that case, you can 00:15:12.439 --> 00:15:17.839 jump I don't know what 30 40 cm maybe 50 00:15:17.839 --> 00:15:21.079 if you're a crazy athlete... but is that 00:15:21.079 --> 00:15:23.680 enough for the soft catch? And this 00:15:23.680 --> 00:15:26.079 brings us to this experiment: here we did 00:15:26.079 --> 00:15:28.680 a series of falls, alternating between 00:15:28.680 --> 00:15:31.399 stepping forward and jumping up and we 00:15:31.399 --> 00:15:34.120 measured the forces to the climber. 00:15:34.120 --> 00:15:36.399 And same as before, jumping up was 00:15:36.399 --> 00:15:38.480 consistently better than stepping forward, 00:15:38.480 --> 00:15:40.880 and doing nothing was 00:15:40.880 --> 00:15:43.360 significantly worse. And then we decided 00:15:43.360 --> 00:15:46.360 to introduce this zigzag in the route, and 00:15:46.360 --> 00:15:49.279 although it doesn't look like much, 00:15:49.279 --> 00:15:52.240 it actually added a ton of friction, 00:15:52.240 --> 00:15:56.319 basically imitating a very heavy belayer. 00:15:56.319 --> 00:16:00.801 [Belayer] - Wow! I couldn't jump at all! 00:16:00.801 --> 00:16:04.480 And, as I was expecting, jumping up was not working 00:16:04.480 --> 00:16:07.279 at all in this case, so let's see if 00:16:07.279 --> 00:16:11.289 stepping forward is going to be better. 00:16:12.240 --> 00:16:14.659 [Climber] - Wow that was solid! 00:16:15.539 --> 00:16:22.098 [Climber] - 2.5, oh sh*t! And it actually was even worse. 00:16:23.778 --> 00:16:26.619 [Belayer] - Man I cannot give you a soft catch this way! 00:16:26.619 --> 00:16:28.560 So yeah no matter how much I tried 00:16:28.560 --> 00:16:31.560 to jump, I was not able to give a 00:16:31.560 --> 00:16:34.279 truly soft catch, and stepping forward 00:16:34.279 --> 00:16:36.419 was even worse. 00:16:37.149 --> 00:16:40.152 [Belayer] - It's impossible to give a soft catch like this! 00:16:40.152 --> 00:16:42.569 To time well the stepping forward 00:16:42.569 --> 00:16:44.440 on such a short fall 00:16:44.440 --> 00:16:47.450 is nearly impossible. 00:16:47.688 --> 00:16:51.600 Now while ,it seemed that heavy belayers are doomed, on 00:16:51.600 --> 00:16:53.839 this next experiment I actually 00:16:53.839 --> 00:16:56.680 discovered something that helps. 00:16:56.680 --> 00:16:59.800 This time I was belaying a light girl, and as 00:16:59.800 --> 00:17:02.360 before, I was also struggling to give a 00:17:02.360 --> 00:17:07.328 soft catch. The jumping simply did not work. 00:17:07.328 --> 00:17:09.270 And neither did the stepping 00:17:09.270 --> 00:17:11.020 forward method. 00:17:11.270 --> 00:17:13.949 But then I discovered something. 00:17:16.472 --> 00:17:20.555 [Climber] - Better, better. This one was soft! 00:17:22.793 --> 00:17:24.878 It's soft! 00:17:24.878 --> 00:17:28.039 So yeah, turns out that bending the knees will give you more 00:17:28.039 --> 00:17:30.799 range of movement and in this test case 00:17:30.799 --> 00:17:34.299 scenario it made a huge difference. 00:17:34.299 --> 00:17:36.440 [Climber] - If the fall was Wyuuuuuuuuu 00:17:36.440 --> 00:17:41.569 Just super soft, and the others was Bump! 00:17:41.569 --> 00:17:43.270 - Like Bum? - Yeah yeah yeah! 00:17:43.270 --> 00:17:47.480 - So it's Bum versus Yuuuuuuu. - And we prefer Yuuu. 00:17:47.480 --> 00:17:49.867 - You prefer Woooo. - Yeah! 00:17:50.297 --> 00:17:51.440 And although I already 00:17:51.440 --> 00:17:53.320 mentioned this in the first episode, but 00:17:53.320 --> 00:17:56.080 it's really important to stress that 00:17:56.080 --> 00:17:59.320 simply throwing a lot of slack does not 00:17:59.320 --> 00:18:01.618 mean a soft catch. 00:18:08.457 --> 00:18:10.380 And in the case of a passive belay, 00:18:10.380 --> 00:18:12.600 it can end up very badly. 00:18:12.600 --> 00:18:14.880 And the only reason she was fine in this 00:18:14.880 --> 00:18:17.280 case, was because she was falling 00:18:17.280 --> 00:18:19.989 straight down under the quick draw. 00:18:19.989 --> 00:18:22.520 So all she felt was just a jerk to the 00:18:22.520 --> 00:18:25.360 harness. In a different situation with a 00:18:25.360 --> 00:18:28.200 little bit of swing, that kind of catch 00:18:28.200 --> 00:18:31.497 with would probably break her ankles. 00:18:31.497 --> 00:18:33.720 So, instead of feeding a ton of slack for 00:18:33.720 --> 00:18:37.643 your climber maybe you should... feed your climber? 00:18:37.643 --> 00:18:39.360 And as we saw If the fall is 00:18:39.360 --> 00:18:42.159 small, bending the knees before the fall 00:18:42.159 --> 00:18:45.280 might help. Now in case of a big whipper 00:18:45.280 --> 00:18:48.080 the fall naturally is much bigger, so you 00:18:48.080 --> 00:18:50.480 will have more time to go down and 00:18:50.480 --> 00:18:52.799 explode up and from a biomechanical 00:18:52.799 --> 00:18:55.120 standpoint since our muscles act as 00:18:55.120 --> 00:18:58.440 springs, going down and jumping up should 00:18:58.440 --> 00:19:01.200 result into a higher jump. Now if that 00:19:01.200 --> 00:19:03.640 doesn't help I would suggest more food 00:19:03.640 --> 00:19:06.480 cycles and if that's not an option then 00:19:06.480 --> 00:19:08.960 I've seen a method used by a very heavy 00:19:08.960 --> 00:19:11.400 belayer, which worked very well for him, 00:19:11.400 --> 00:19:14.600 where he took a little bit of slack with 00:19:14.600 --> 00:19:18.039 his lead hand and during the impact he 00:19:18.039 --> 00:19:22.070 used his lead hand to soften the catch. 00:19:23.230 --> 00:19:26.000 It is extremely important to not 00:19:26.000 --> 00:19:28.880 have too much slack here or you will 00:19:28.880 --> 00:19:31.600 burn your hand. So be smart and use this 00:19:31.600 --> 00:19:34.559 at your own risk. This is sketchy but 00:19:34.559 --> 00:19:36.612 I've seen it working really well. 00:19:36.612 --> 00:19:39.159 Or alternatively go old school and learn 00:19:39.159 --> 00:19:41.618 how to use tube style belaying, then it 00:19:41.618 --> 00:19:43.939 doesn't matter what's the weight of the climber 00:19:43.939 --> 00:19:46.230 You can always make a soft catch. 00:19:46.230 --> 00:19:48.760 But of course that comes with its own risks of not 00:19:48.760 --> 00:19:51.296 having an assisted belay device. 00:19:51.296 --> 00:19:54.437 But for majority of you, jumping up is going to 00:19:54.437 --> 00:19:56.520 be the best and if for whatever reason 00:19:56.520 --> 00:19:58.600 you find yourself away from the wall, 00:19:58.600 --> 00:20:01.960 then just do stepping forward as we saw. 00:20:01.960 --> 00:20:04.480 Whatever soft catch method is much 00:20:04.480 --> 00:20:06.082 better than passive belaying. 00:20:06.082 --> 00:20:08.280 Now I understand that this video was full of 00:20:08.280 --> 00:20:10.840 charts and graphs and chances are if 00:20:10.840 --> 00:20:12.280 you're still watching you're a little 00:20:12.280 --> 00:20:14.799 bit nerdy, however I'm going to make a 00:20:14.799 --> 00:20:17.320 separate video for my belay Master Class 00:20:17.320 --> 00:20:19.360 where I will go more on practical 00:20:19.360 --> 00:20:22.320 details, including those sketchy 00:20:22.320 --> 00:20:25.080 low-to-the-ground situations. And also during 00:20:25.080 --> 00:20:27.200 these two years we have measured forces 00:20:27.200 --> 00:20:30.159 on hundred of falls, so we have a lot of 00:20:30.159 --> 00:20:32.120 data. But as I explained in previous 00:20:32.120 --> 00:20:34.840 episodes Peak Force to the climber might 00:20:34.840 --> 00:20:37.120 not be the most important factor for 00:20:37.120 --> 00:20:38.240 sport 00:20:38.240 --> 00:20:41.080 climbers however that might be much more 00:20:41.080 --> 00:20:45.840 important for TR climbers keep a good 00:20:47.200 --> 00:20:50.840 eye [ __ ] so I guess this deserves an 00:20:50.840 --> 00:20:53.480 episode for trout climbers as well and 00:20:53.480 --> 00:20:55.640 all of these people and supporters 00:20:55.640 --> 00:20:58.280 deserve a huge thank you none of this 00:20:58.280 --> 00:21:00.400 project would been possible without all 00:21:00.400 --> 00:21:03.559 of you and you deserve some 00:21:03.559 --> 00:21:06.200 knowledge for the last 6 months I was 00:21:06.200 --> 00:21:09.000 warming up my brain in the mornings with 00:21:09.000 --> 00:21:12.039 brilliant.org which is an awesome online 00:21:12.039 --> 00:21:14.880 platform for learning math data science 00:21:14.880 --> 00:21:17.559 and computer science 00:21:17.559 --> 00:21:19.600 interactively good morning Ben how are 00:21:19.600 --> 00:21:22.080 you ah feeling like Quan in for 00:21:22.080 --> 00:21:24.440 dimensional space with emotions twisting 00:21:24.440 --> 00:21:26.960 like meus transformation and my mood 00:21:26.960 --> 00:21:29.880 transforming like like ien vector so not 00:21:29.880 --> 00:21:31.919 only you get deeper connections with 00:21:31.919 --> 00:21:34.440 your smart friends you also deepen your 00:21:34.440 --> 00:21:36.640 scientific understanding of the world 00:21:36.640 --> 00:21:39.320 just imagine how your regular life 00:21:39.320 --> 00:21:41.440 problems will look when you will be 00:21:41.440 --> 00:21:44.080 contemplating that we are all just 00:21:44.080 --> 00:21:47.120 riding a giant rock through constantly 00:21:47.120 --> 00:21:50.320 expanding space with supernovas and 00:21:50.320 --> 00:21:53.360 solar winds or maybe before human 00:21:53.360 --> 00:21:57.000 thinking becomes obsolete write a short 00:21:57.000 --> 00:22:02.120 math point poem in a style of me you 00:22:02.120 --> 00:22:05.039 want to know how Chad GPT works so 00:22:05.039 --> 00:22:06.880 whenever you're are a complete beginner 00:22:06.880 --> 00:22:09.200 or ready to dive into machine learning 00:22:09.200 --> 00:22:11.880 and Beyond brilliant.org makes it easy 00:22:11.880 --> 00:22:14.960 to level up fast with fun bite-sized 00:22:14.960 --> 00:22:17.200 lessons and you can try all of this 00:22:17.200 --> 00:22:19.600 completely for free for 30 days by 00:22:19.600 --> 00:22:22.799 visiting brilliant.org heart disey and 00:22:22.799 --> 00:22:26.120 first 200 of you can also get 20% off 00:22:26.120 --> 00:22:28.520 their annual premium subscription 00:22:28.520 --> 00:22:31.720 so thank you brilliant for making sure 00:22:31.720 --> 00:22:34.279 that we still use our brain and thank 00:22:34.279 --> 00:22:37.080 you for watching enjoy your brain and 00:22:37.080 --> 00:22:40.120 climbing and see you in the next one now 00:22:40.120 --> 00:22:44.799 it's going to be fun feeling like 00:22:45.240 --> 00:22:49.240 qu that word