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All right, welcome back to the largest

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study on climbing falls. In the first

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episode we looked how does extra slack

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affect the fall, or more precisely does

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falling more reduce the pendulum into

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the wall and how hard the climber is

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going to hit the wall, and then I showed

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you the importance of soft catch and

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what a massive difference that makes and

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also that hard catches are not only the

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problem for heavier belayers

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lighter belayers often lack practice to

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give soft catches since most of the time

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they don't need they fly up anyway but

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in exceptional cases with enough

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friction... -My foot -What happened to your

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foot -Well it was a hard fall - Heavey belayer?

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-Llight belayer. Yeah yeah and I also

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asked you guys I'm curious did you ever

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got unexpectedly hard catch from a light

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belayer? And turns out this happens more

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often than I

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thought. so yeah light or heavy you're

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going to love this episode because we're

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going to investigate which method of

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giving soft catch is the best. We're

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going to compare stepping forward versus

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jumping up and as a bonus the tube slide

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method where the belayer lets the rope

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slide through the device which is more

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common in trad

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climbing so let's begin. Now in the

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previous episode I showed you this

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beautiful horizontal velocity graphs and

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I explained that the peak of horizontal

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velocity is at the bottom of the

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pendulum and that is a good indicator

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how hard the climber would meet the wall

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if the wall would not be overhanging and

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in this test I wanted to go a step

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further and see what happens when the

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climber meets the wall. - 1... 2... 3...

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and my idea this time was to

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measure deceleration during the impact

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and in many of our test cases

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this idea was working really well. If we

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compare the soft catches to the hard one

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you can see a huge spike in

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deceleration. However after doing lots

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and lots of more falls and analyzing the

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data I realized that the peak

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deceleration is not always a good metric

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to look. for example take a look at this

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hard catch you can visually see that it

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was much harder for the climber but the

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peak deceleration was nearly identical

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to the soft catches before, so it turns

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out our soft bodies are incredible at

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absorbing

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impacts but the problem is that it's

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very difficult to measure what's

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happening in our muscles during this

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impact. So while peak deceleration was

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interesting to look in some cases,

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horizontal velocity at the moment of

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impact was much better indicator. After

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all, all of this velocity that we are

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about to hit the wall will need to be

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absorbed by our soft bodies. Okay so

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let's see which method to give a soft

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catch is the best. To not kill me on the

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very first test we started with smaller

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falls and jumping up technique. And these

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falls were extremely nice and soft.

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[Climber] - A soft ride! 
So let's see how stepping

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forward will compare. 
[Climber] - 1... 2... 3...

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- This is harder.
And the fall this time

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felt a little bit harder and we can also

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see that in the graphs. However overall

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it was still a very soft catch.

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And the second fall was very similar.

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Also a quick note: I was not sure

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how much stiffer the rope gets over

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multiple falls, and even though in this

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video I'm presenting you all the data

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grouped by method, meaning at first I

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show you all the soft catches with

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jumping up method, then I show you all

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the soft catches with stepping forward,

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in reality we did alternate between the

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methods between every fall. So we did a

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jumping up and then stepping forward, etc.

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Pointless information for most of

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you, but I know that a lot of geeks are

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watching my videos and we like to write

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nitpicky comments, so this is for you

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nitpicky geek. All right now let's see

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how the tube slide method compares and

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while I was expecting a lot from this

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method, the first fall wasn't any better.

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The second fall had a very low momentum

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into the wall but a lot of vertical

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momentum, which made me almost run across

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the wall, which was slightly

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uncomfortable. So we tried again and this

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time the fall was much nicer and I know

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that people like to try all the crazy

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things they see on the internet so

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that's why I have to stress that this

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tube slide method is really advanced, so

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if you don't know what you're doing, make

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sure that you have an expert guiding you.

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Now if we would compare all the best

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attempts of all the methods, we can see

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that the jumping up was slightly better

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but overall all the method were very

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similar. 
[Climber] - So all of these falls felt quite

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soft except the one where he does

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nothing, then I fell to the wall.

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Yeah we actually forgot to film hard catches

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where the belayer does nothing on this

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test, but no worries this was just a

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small warm-up.
And let's see some bigger falls.

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So this time we started with a

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tube slide method,

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which at least in theory, 
lets the belayer achieve

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any full arc.

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And here is one more attempt

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this time with even bigger arc or longer

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braking distance, and the fall was just

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tiny bit softer for the climber. For now

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I'm just going to keep the softest

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attempt in the charts and let's see how

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does that compare to the jumping up

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technique. And we can see that the first

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fall was slightly smaller, however it had

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nearly identical horizontal acceleration

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and velocity. However it also had lower

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absolute velocity, which is actually

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better for the climber. Now the second

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fall was slightly smaller
but had a tiny bit

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more horizontal velocity towards the wall

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and again let's keep the best

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attempts of each method and see how does

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that compare to the stepping forward technique.

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And we can see that the fall

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was smallest however it had the greatest

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impact to the wall. Now on the second

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attempt the belayer did a much better job

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and the fall was significantly softer.

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And if we compare all the best attempts

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of all the methods, we can see that the

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horizontal speed at the moment of impact

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was nearly identical. Which means that at

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least in this test case scenario,

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a skilled belayer can achieve almost the

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same results with any method. But since

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consistency in catches also matters,

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if we compare the worst attempts,
tube slide method

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was the best, followed by jumping up,

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and then the stepping forward was the worst.

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However even the worst cases of

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any of these methods were much much

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better compared to the passive belay.

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So the first arising takeaway was that no

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matter which method you choose to give a

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soft catch, it's going to be much better

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than passively standing and doing

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nothing.

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And as always one test is no test, so I

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wanted to repeat these tests in a

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different location with another belayer.

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Ricky who has also a lot of experience

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using this tube slide method, and he told

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me that it's actually 
his preferred method.

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So, high expectations.

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[Climber] - Two, three... 
- Okay

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- Falling!

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- Aw, that was super soft!

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So we did three attempts and all
of them had very similar horizontal

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velocity nice

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consistency next we tested the stepping

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forward method and we can see that the

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fall was much shorter and had a much

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greater swing into the wall it seemed

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that the Blair was pulled towards the

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wall way too much and did not had enough

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control to make the false

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[Music]

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move

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all right next the jumping up method

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where Ricky actually did a very bad job

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on the first

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attempt and the same happened on the

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second attempt where his jump was very

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minimal only initiated a little bit from

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his right cuff so that's not how you

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jump and that's why I decided to ignore

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these two attempts for the poor

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technique and after He adjusted his

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technique on the third jump he jumped

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with both legs and it was much much

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better and finally we did one passive

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catch where the Blair does nothing and

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same as before it causes significantly

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higher swing into the wall so at least

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in this test case scenario tube slide

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was the best followed by jumping up and

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stepping forward was again the

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worst so stepping forward versus uh

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jumping up yes stepping forward was not

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in a controlled way I was just pulled to

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the wall mm I tried to lean

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backwards to to break to catch a fall

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but it was not in a controll way and

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jumping up I can choose how much I want

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to jump and at what timing so overall

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which method is the best will heavily

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depend on your experience using this

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methods however stepping forward seemed

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to be the worst and gave the least

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control and also worth mentioning is

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that standing too far in many situations

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can drag the Blair into the wall

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completely

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uncontrollably okay now was

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like and that would make the catch even

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harder all right but what if the Blair

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is significantly heavier in that case if

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you try the jumping method there is not

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much pull up by the rope and jumping is

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much more difficult so maybe stepping

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forward is better in this case to test

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that kishu suggested to introduce extra

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friction which basically makes the

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blayer

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heavier can we try like this he wants to

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kill me so that's what we got a little

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zigzag in the beginning and then a

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straight line all the way to the climber

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so the Rope actually is not going over

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the edge it's just very sharp angle you

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have to for sorry he says you have to

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fall 1 2

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[Music]

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3 the swing into the wall

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is

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okayish so we started with jumping

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method which felt slightly harder with

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increased friction but still plenty soft

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enough

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yeah just take a look at this Bel

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running up the wall and even avoiding

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his arm being squished into the first

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Quick Draw skills huh so let's see if

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with increased friction stepping forward

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will be better this time he was not

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pulled into the wall uncontrollably

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anymore it also looks like he got the

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perfect timing and even started running

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forward just before they impact however

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they swing into the ball for the climber

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was still harder compared to the jumping

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method okay next we did a series of tube

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slight catches the first felt very nice

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and soft now the second fall had even

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softer impact with the wall however I

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still had a lot of momentum downwards

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which forced me almost run down the wall

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which is a little bit

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awkward and the last fall had a very

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similar

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effect

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and if we look into the best cases for

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each method we can see that jumping up

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and Tube slide were very very similar

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and the stepping forward was slightly

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worse and this bar chart plots all the

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Falls so we can see that on average tube

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slide method performed the best followed

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00:13:19,519 --> 00:13:22,120
by jumping up and then stepping forward

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was the worst now from Pure feeling

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00:13:25,279 --> 00:13:27,920
standpoint for me as a climber both

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00:13:27,920 --> 00:13:30,839
jumping up and Tube slide methods felt

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00:13:30,839 --> 00:13:33,720
very nice and soft maybe if I would be

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00:13:33,720 --> 00:13:37,120
nitpicking this extra momentum downwards

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00:13:37,120 --> 00:13:39,120
sometimes on the tube slide method was

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00:13:39,120 --> 00:13:41,279
slightly uncomfortable although in

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00:13:41,279 --> 00:13:43,680
theory the blayer should be able to give

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00:13:43,680 --> 00:13:45,839
almost any kind of catch with this

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00:13:45,839 --> 00:13:49,040
method and the stepping forward method

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00:13:49,040 --> 00:13:51,800
was maybe slightly harder had slightly

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00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:54,600
bigger impact to the wall however it was

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still plenty soft enough and what is not

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soft enough is passive blay so once

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00:14:01,759 --> 00:14:04,399
again no matter which soft catch method

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00:14:04,399 --> 00:14:07,639
we tried it was significantly better

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00:14:07,639 --> 00:14:10,959
than passive Bay and with added friction

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00:14:10,959 --> 00:14:13,440
the Bayer wasn't even lifted off the

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00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:16,120
ground this time previously when we had

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00:14:16,120 --> 00:14:18,800
no friction passive blay looked like

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00:14:18,800 --> 00:14:22,320
this the blayer was still pulled up but

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00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:25,240
now with extra friction that is not the

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00:14:25,240 --> 00:14:27,120
case anymore and you can see how the

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00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:29,880
climber is being pulled up and into the

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00:14:29,880 --> 00:14:32,880
wall even

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00:14:33,160 --> 00:14:34,839
harder

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yeah okay that

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00:14:38,480 --> 00:14:42,120
was that was the way it was so yeah

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00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:44,839
don't forget to subscribe I might need

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00:14:44,839 --> 00:14:47,399
advertisement money to fix my broken

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00:14:47,399 --> 00:14:51,639
body at old age so what's your favorite

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00:14:51,639 --> 00:14:54,759
method yeah jumping up jumping up yes

314
00:14:54,759 --> 00:14:56,959
mhm okay so we were leaning towards

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00:14:56,959 --> 00:15:00,399
jumping as our favorite meth foot but

316
00:15:00,399 --> 00:15:03,160
what if the blayer is really really

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00:15:03,160 --> 00:15:05,399
heavy or there is so much friction in

318
00:15:05,399 --> 00:15:08,120
the system that the Rope Almost Doesn't

319
00:15:08,120 --> 00:15:12,959
pull the Blair up in that case you can

320
00:15:12,959 --> 00:15:17,839
jump I don't know what 30 40 cm maybe 50

321
00:15:17,839 --> 00:15:21,079
if you're a crazy athlete but is that

322
00:15:21,079 --> 00:15:23,680
enough for the soft catch and this

323
00:15:23,680 --> 00:15:26,079
brings us to this experiment here we did

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00:15:26,079 --> 00:15:28,680
a series of false alternating between

325
00:15:28,680 --> 00:15:31,399
stepping forward and jumping up and we

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00:15:31,399 --> 00:15:34,120
measured the forces to the climber and

327
00:15:34,120 --> 00:15:36,399
same as before jumping up was

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00:15:36,399 --> 00:15:38,480
consistently better than stepping

329
00:15:38,480 --> 00:15:40,880
forward and doing nothing was

330
00:15:40,880 --> 00:15:43,360
significantly worse and then we decided

331
00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:46,360
to introduce this zigzag in the rout and

332
00:15:46,360 --> 00:15:49,279
although it doesn't look like much it

333
00:15:49,279 --> 00:15:52,240
actually added a ton of friction

334
00:15:52,240 --> 00:15:56,319
basically imitating a very heavy blay

335
00:15:56,319 --> 00:16:01,319
what wa I couldn't jump at all and as I

336
00:16:01,319 --> 00:16:04,480
was expecting jumping up was not working

337
00:16:04,480 --> 00:16:07,279
at all in this case so let's see if

338
00:16:07,279 --> 00:16:11,519
stepping forward is going to be better 2

339
00:16:12,000 --> 00:16:14,279
1 wow that was

340
00:16:14,279 --> 00:16:16,399
solid

341
00:16:16,399 --> 00:16:22,680
2.5 oh [ __ ] Z and it actually was even

342
00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:25,839
worse man I cannot give you a soft catch

343
00:16:25,839 --> 00:16:28,560
this way so yeah no matter how much I

344
00:16:28,560 --> 00:16:31,560
Tri to jump I was not able to give a

345
00:16:31,560 --> 00:16:34,279
truly soft catch and stepping forward

346
00:16:34,279 --> 00:16:35,959
was even

347
00:16:35,959 --> 00:16:38,560
worse it's impossible to give a soft

348
00:16:38,560 --> 00:16:41,399
catch like this to time well the

349
00:16:41,399 --> 00:16:44,440
stepping forward and such a short fall

350
00:16:44,440 --> 00:16:48,560
is nearly impossible yeah now while it

351
00:16:48,560 --> 00:16:51,600
seemed that heavy blers are doomed on

352
00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:53,839
this next experiment I actually

353
00:16:53,839 --> 00:16:56,680
discovered something that helps this

354
00:16:56,680 --> 00:16:59,800
time I was belaying a light girl and as

355
00:16:59,800 --> 00:17:02,360
before I was also struggling to give a

356
00:17:02,360 --> 00:17:06,480
soft catch the jumping simply did not

357
00:17:06,480 --> 00:17:09,280
work and neither did the stepping

358
00:17:09,280 --> 00:17:14,919
forward method but then I discovered

359
00:17:15,160 --> 00:17:20,839
something better better this one was

360
00:17:21,079 --> 00:17:25,919
soft yes it's soft so yeah turns out

361
00:17:25,919 --> 00:17:28,039
that bending Den KN will give you more

362
00:17:28,039 --> 00:17:30,799
range of movement and in this test case

363
00:17:30,799 --> 00:17:34,039
scenario it made a huge difference it

364
00:17:34,039 --> 00:17:36,440
the fall

365
00:17:36,440 --> 00:17:39,919
was just super soft and the others was

366
00:17:39,919 --> 00:17:44,840
boom like boom yeah yeah yeah so it's Bo

367
00:17:44,840 --> 00:17:48,640
versus and we prefer wo you prefer woo

368
00:17:48,640 --> 00:17:51,440
yeah yeah and although I already

369
00:17:51,440 --> 00:17:53,320
mentioned this in the first episode but

370
00:17:53,320 --> 00:17:56,080
it's really important to stress that

371
00:17:56,080 --> 00:17:59,320
simply throwing a lot of Slack does not

372
00:17:59,320 --> 00:18:03,559
mean a soft catch

373
00:18:05,120 --> 00:18:09,320
okay this [ __ ] and in a case of a

374
00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:12,600
passive Bay can end up very badly and

375
00:18:12,600 --> 00:18:14,880
the only reason she was fine in this

376
00:18:14,880 --> 00:18:17,280
case was because she was falling

377
00:18:17,280 --> 00:18:20,039
straight down under the Quick Draw so

378
00:18:20,039 --> 00:18:22,520
all she felt was just a jerk to the

379
00:18:22,520 --> 00:18:25,360
harness in a different situation with a

380
00:18:25,360 --> 00:18:28,200
little bit of swing that kind of catch

381
00:18:28,200 --> 00:18:31,559
with would probably break her ankles so

382
00:18:31,559 --> 00:18:33,720
instead of feeding a ton of slack for

383
00:18:33,720 --> 00:18:36,960
your climber maybe you should feed your

384
00:18:36,960 --> 00:18:39,360
climber and as we saw If the fall is

385
00:18:39,360 --> 00:18:42,159
small bending the knees before the fall

386
00:18:42,159 --> 00:18:45,280
might help now in case of a big whipper

387
00:18:45,280 --> 00:18:48,080
the fall naturally is much bigger so you

388
00:18:48,080 --> 00:18:50,480
will have more time to go down and

389
00:18:50,480 --> 00:18:52,799
explode up and from B mechanical

390
00:18:52,799 --> 00:18:55,120
standpoint since our muscles act as

391
00:18:55,120 --> 00:18:58,440
Springs going down and jumping up should

392
00:18:58,440 --> 00:19:01,200
result into a higher jump now if that

393
00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:03,640
doesn't help I would suggest more food

394
00:19:03,640 --> 00:19:06,480
cycles and if that's not an option then

395
00:19:06,480 --> 00:19:08,960
I've seen a method used by a very heavy

396
00:19:08,960 --> 00:19:11,400
Blair which worked very well for him

397
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:14,600
where he took a little bit of slack with

398
00:19:14,600 --> 00:19:18,039
his lead hand and during the impact he

399
00:19:18,039 --> 00:19:22,440
used his lead hand to soften the

400
00:19:22,520 --> 00:19:26,000
catch it is extremely important to not

401
00:19:26,000 --> 00:19:28,880
have too much slack here or you will

402
00:19:28,880 --> 00:19:31,600
burn your hand so be smart and use this

403
00:19:31,600 --> 00:19:34,559
at your own risk this is sketchy but

404
00:19:34,559 --> 00:19:36,679
I've seen it working really well or

405
00:19:36,679 --> 00:19:39,159
alternatively go old school and learn

406
00:19:39,159 --> 00:19:41,919
how to use tube style BL then it doesn't

407
00:19:41,919 --> 00:19:43,799
matter what's the weight of the climber

408
00:19:43,799 --> 00:19:46,400
you can always make a soft catch but of

409
00:19:46,400 --> 00:19:48,760
course that comes with its own risks of

410
00:19:48,760 --> 00:19:51,480
not having assisted blade device but for

411
00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,720
majority of you jumping up is going to

412
00:19:53,720 --> 00:19:56,520
be the best and if for whatever reason

413
00:19:56,520 --> 00:19:58,600
you find yourself away from the wall

414
00:19:58,600 --> 00:20:01,960
then just do stepping forward as we saw

415
00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:04,480
whatever soft catch method is much

416
00:20:04,480 --> 00:20:06,679
better than passive delay now I

417
00:20:06,679 --> 00:20:08,280
understand that this video was full of

418
00:20:08,280 --> 00:20:10,840
charts and graphs and chances are if

419
00:20:10,840 --> 00:20:12,280
you're still watching you're a little

420
00:20:12,280 --> 00:20:14,799
bit nerdy however I'm going to make a

421
00:20:14,799 --> 00:20:17,320
separate video for my blay Master Class

422
00:20:17,320 --> 00:20:19,360
where I will go more on practical

423
00:20:19,360 --> 00:20:22,320
details including those sketchy low to

424
00:20:22,320 --> 00:20:25,080
the ground situations and also during

425
00:20:25,080 --> 00:20:27,200
these two years we have measured forces

426
00:20:27,200 --> 00:20:30,159
on hundred of Falls so we have a lot of

427
00:20:30,159 --> 00:20:32,120
data but as I explained in previous

428
00:20:32,120 --> 00:20:34,840
episodes Peak Force to the climber might

429
00:20:34,840 --> 00:20:37,120
not be the most important factor for

430
00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:38,240
sport

431
00:20:38,240 --> 00:20:41,080
climbers however that might be much more

432
00:20:41,080 --> 00:20:45,840
important for TR climbers keep a good

433
00:20:47,200 --> 00:20:50,840
eye [ __ ] so I guess this deserves an

434
00:20:50,840 --> 00:20:53,480
episode for trout climbers as well and

435
00:20:53,480 --> 00:20:55,640
all of these people and supporters

436
00:20:55,640 --> 00:20:58,280
deserve a huge thank you none of this

437
00:20:58,280 --> 00:21:00,400
project would been possible without all

438
00:21:00,400 --> 00:21:03,559
of you and you deserve some

439
00:21:03,559 --> 00:21:06,200
knowledge for the last 6 months I was

440
00:21:06,200 --> 00:21:09,000
warming up my brain in the mornings with

441
00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:12,039
brilliant.org which is an awesome online

442
00:21:12,039 --> 00:21:14,880
platform for learning math data science

443
00:21:14,880 --> 00:21:17,559
and computer science

444
00:21:17,559 --> 00:21:19,600
interactively good morning Ben how are

445
00:21:19,600 --> 00:21:22,080
you ah feeling like Quan in for

446
00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:24,440
dimensional space with emotions twisting

447
00:21:24,440 --> 00:21:26,960
like meus transformation and my mood

448
00:21:26,960 --> 00:21:29,880
transforming like like ien vector so not

449
00:21:29,880 --> 00:21:31,919
only you get deeper connections with

450
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your smart friends you also deepen your

451
00:21:34,440 --> 00:21:36,640
scientific understanding of the world

452
00:21:36,640 --> 00:21:39,320
just imagine how your regular life

453
00:21:39,320 --> 00:21:41,440
problems will look when you will be

454
00:21:41,440 --> 00:21:44,080
contemplating that we are all just

455
00:21:44,080 --> 00:21:47,120
riding a giant rock through constantly

456
00:21:47,120 --> 00:21:50,320
expanding space with supernovas and

457
00:21:50,320 --> 00:21:53,360
solar winds or maybe before human

458
00:21:53,360 --> 00:21:57,000
thinking becomes obsolete write a short

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math point poem in a style of me you

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470
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so thank you brilliant for making sure

471
00:22:31,720 --> 00:22:34,279
that we still use our brain and thank

472
00:22:34,279 --> 00:22:37,080
you for watching enjoy your brain and

473
00:22:37,080 --> 00:22:40,120
climbing and see you in the next one now

474
00:22:40,120 --> 00:22:44,799
it's going to be fun feeling like

475
00:22:45,240 --> 00:22:49,240
qu that word