[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.12,0:00:02.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, welcome back to the largest
Dialogue: 0,0:00:02.20,0:00:05.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,study on climbing falls. In the first
Dialogue: 0,0:00:05.12,0:00:08.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode we looked how does extra slack
Dialogue: 0,0:00:08.36,0:00:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,affect the fall, or more precisely does
Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.32,0:00:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falling more reduce the pendulum into
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.32,0:00:16.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall and how hard the climber is
Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.52,0:00:18.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to hit the wall. And then I showed
Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.84,0:00:21.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you the importance of soft catch and
Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.64,0:00:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what a massive difference that makes.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.36,0:00:28.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And also that hard catches are not only
Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.31,0:00:30.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the problem for heavier belayers.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.60,0:00:33.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Lighter belayers often lack practice to
Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.32,0:00:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,give soft catches since most of the time
Dialogue: 0,0:00:35.76,0:00:38.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they don't need, they fly up anyway but
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.92,0:00:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in exceptional cases \Nwith enough friction...
Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.00,0:00:44.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- My foot \N- What happened to your foot?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:44.04,0:00:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Well it was a hard fall.\N- Heavy belayer?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:48.00,0:00:50.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Eh... Light belayer. Yeah.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.70,0:00:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah. And I also asked you guys
Dialogue: 0,0:00:53.76,0:00:55.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- I'm curious, did you ever
Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.32,0:00:59.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,got unexpectedly hard catch \Nfrom a light belayer?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.78,0:01:01.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And turns out this happens more
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.88,0:01:04.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,often than I thought.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.37,0:01:06.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So yeah, light or heavy, you're
Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.04,0:01:08.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to love this episode because we're
Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.12,0:01:10.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to investigate which method of
Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.32,0:01:12.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving soft catch is the best. We're
Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.92,0:01:16.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to compare stepping forward versus
Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.00,0:01:19.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up, and as a bonus the tube slide
Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.00,0:01:21.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method where the belayer lets the rope
Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.12,0:01:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slide through the device, which is more
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.04,0:01:25.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,common in trad climbing.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:25.34,0:01:27.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's begin.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.39,0:01:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in the previous episode \NI showed you this
Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.00,0:01:32.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beautiful horizontal velocity graphs
Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.80,0:01:35.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I explained that \Nthe peak of horizontal
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.72,0:01:38.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,velocity is at the bottom of the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.24,0:01:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pendulum, and that is a good indicator
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.72,0:01:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how hard the climber would meet the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.16,0:01:46.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if the wall would not be overhanging.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.82,0:01:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in this test I wanted to go a step
Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.20,0:01:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,further and see what happens when the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.60,0:01:56.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber meets the wall. \N[Climber] - One, two, three
Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.88,0:01:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And my idea this time was to
Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.84,0:02:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measure deceleration during the impact.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.60,0:02:06.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in many of our test cases
Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.84,0:02:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this idea was working really well. If we
Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.84,0:02:13.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare the soft catches to the hard one
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.00,0:02:16.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can see a huge spike in deceleration.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.65,0:02:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, after doing lots
Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.80,0:02:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and lots of more falls and analyzing the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.44,0:02:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,data, I realized that the peak
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.84,0:02:27.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deceleration is not always \Na good metric to look.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.100,0:02:30.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For example, take a look \Nat this hard catch.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.71,0:02:32.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can visually see that it
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.08,0:02:35.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was much harder for the climber, but the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.08,0:02:38.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,peak deceleration was nearly identical
Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.20,0:02:40.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the soft catches before.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.64,0:02:46.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, turns out our soft bodies \Nare incredible at absorbing impacts,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.65,0:02:48.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the problem is that it's
Dialogue: 0,0:02:48.40,0:02:50.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very difficult to measure what's
Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.08,0:02:53.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happening in our muscles \Nduring this impact.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.13,0:02:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So while peak deceleration was
Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.96,0:02:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting to look in some cases,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.04,0:02:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,horizontal velocity at the moment of
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.84,0:03:03.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impact was a much better indicator.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.19,0:03:05.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,After all, all of this velocity \Nthat we are
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.56,0:03:09.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about to hit the wall, \Nwill need to be absorbed
Dialogue: 0,0:03:09.03,0:03:11.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by our soft bodies.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.20,0:03:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, so let's see which method \Nto give a soft catch is the best.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.08,0:03:21.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To not kill me on the very first \Ntest we started with smaller falls
Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.27,0:03:24.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and "jumping up" technique. And these
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.20,0:03:27.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falls were extremely nice and soft.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.36,0:03:32.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - A soft ride!
Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.22,0:03:36.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's see how stepping \Nforward will compare.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.10,0:03:38.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - One, two, three
Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.40,0:03:40.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- This is harder.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.47,0:03:45.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the fall this time felt a \Nlittle bit harder and we can also
Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.16,0:03:48.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see that in the graphs. However overall
Dialogue: 0,0:03:48.48,0:03:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was still a very soft catch.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:51.91,0:03:54.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the second fall was very similar.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.64,0:03:58.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also a quick note: I was not sure
Dialogue: 0,0:03:58.04,0:04:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much stiffer the rope gets over
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.04,0:04:03.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiple falls, and even though in this
Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.64,0:04:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,video I'm presenting you all the data
Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.08,0:04:09.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grouped by method, meaning at first I
Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.07,0:04:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,show you all the soft catches with
Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.88,0:04:13.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"jumping up" method, then I show you all
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.48,0:04:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the soft catches with stepping forward,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.76,0:04:18.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in reality we did alternate between the
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.52,0:04:21.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,methods between every fall. So we did a
Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.32,0:04:24.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up and then stepping forward, etc.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.63,0:04:26.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Pointless information for most of
Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.60,0:04:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you, but I know that a lot of geeks are
Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.72,0:04:30.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watching my videos and they like to write
Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.92,0:04:33.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nitpicky comments.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:33.20,0:04:35.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is for you, nitpicky geek.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.95,0:04:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right, now let's see how \Nthe tube slide method compares.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.48,0:04:42.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And while I was expecting a lot from this
Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.52,0:04:47.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method, the first fall wasn't any better.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.24,0:04:50.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The second fall had a very low momentum
Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.04,0:04:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the wall but a lot of vertical
Dialogue: 0,0:04:53.60,0:04:56.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,momentum, which made me almost run across
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.80,0:04:58.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall, which was slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.84,0:05:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uncomfortable. So we tried again and this
Dialogue: 0,0:05:02.08,0:05:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time the fall was much nicer and I know
Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.00,0:05:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that people like to try all the crazy
Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.16,0:05:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,things they see on the internet so
Dialogue: 0,0:05:10.48,0:05:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's why I have to stress that this
Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.16,0:05:14.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tube slide method is really advanced, so
Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.96,0:05:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you don't know what you're doing, make
Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.36,0:05:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sure that you have an expert guiding you.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.40,0:05:22.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if we would compare all the best
Dialogue: 0,0:05:22.36,0:05:24.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempts of all the methods, we can see
Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.92,0:05:28.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the jumping up was slightly better,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.00,0:05:31.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but overall all the methods \Nwere very similar.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.69,0:05:35.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - So all of these falls \Nfelt quite soft,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:35.01,0:05:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,except the one where he does nothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.04,0:05:39.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then I fell to the wall.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.81,0:05:42.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah we actually forgot \Nto film hard catches
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.20,0:05:44.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the belayer does nothing \Non this test,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.86,0:05:48.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but no worries this was just a\Nsmall warm-up.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:48.13,0:05:50.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And let's see some bigger falls.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.22,0:05:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this time we started with a
Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.24,0:05:55.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tube slide method,\Nwhich at least in theory
Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.57,0:05:58.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lets the belayer achieve\Nany fall arc.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.70,0:06:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And here is one more attempt
Dialogue: 0,0:06:00.96,0:06:04.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this time with even bigger arc or longer
Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.60,0:06:07.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,braking distance, and the fall was just
Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.80,0:06:10.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a tiny bit softer for the climber.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.75,0:06:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For now I'm just gonna keep the softest
Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.64,0:06:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempt in the charts and let's see how
Dialogue: 0,0:06:15.04,0:06:18.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,does that compare to the \Njumping up technique.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:18.28,0:06:20.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we can see that the first
Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.52,0:06:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall was slightly smaller, however it had
Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.48,0:06:27.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nearly identical horizontal acceleration
Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.52,0:06:31.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and velocity. However it also had lower
Dialogue: 0,0:06:31.32,0:06:33.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,absolute velocity, which is actually
Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.96,0:06:36.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better for the climber. Now the second
Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.68,0:06:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall was slightly smaller\Nbut had a tiny bit
Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.92,0:06:43.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more horizontal velocity towards the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.80,0:06:46.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and again let's keep the best
Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.24,0:06:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempts of each method and see how does
Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.04,0:06:53.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that compare to \Nthe stepping forward technique.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.37,0:06:55.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we can see that the fall
Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.84,0:06:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was smallest, however it had the greatest
Dialogue: 0,0:06:59.44,0:07:02.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impact to the wall. Now on the second
Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.60,0:07:05.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,attempt the belayer did a much better job
Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.92,0:07:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the fall was significantly softer.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:09.56,0:07:11.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if we compare all the best attempts
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.48,0:07:13.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of all the methods, we can see that the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.68,0:07:16.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,horizontal speed at the moment of impact
Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.68,0:07:19.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was nearly identical. Which means that at
Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.88,0:07:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,least in this test case scenario,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:21.76,0:07:24.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a skilled belayer can achieve almost the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.28,0:07:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same results with any method. But since
Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.44,0:07:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,consistency in catches also matters,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.88,0:07:33.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if we compare the worst attempts,\Ntube slide method
Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.44,0:07:36.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was the best, followed by jumping up,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.07,0:07:39.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the stepping forward \Nwas the worst.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:39.50,0:07:42.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However even the worst cases of
Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.48,0:07:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any of these methods were much much
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.44,0:07:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better compared to the passive belay.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.28,0:07:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the first arising takeaway was that no
Dialogue: 0,0:07:52.12,0:07:54.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,matter which method you choose to give a
Dialogue: 0,0:07:54.20,0:07:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft catch, it's going to be much better
Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.04,0:07:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than passively standing and doing
Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.96,0:07:59.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.96,0:08:03.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as always one test is no test, so I
Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.28,0:08:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wanted to repeat these tests in a
Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.40,0:08:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different location with another belayer.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.16,0:08:11.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ricky who has also a lot of experience
Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.60,0:08:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,using this tube slide method, and he told
Dialogue: 0,0:08:14.32,0:08:16.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me that it's actually \Nhis preferred method.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.94,0:08:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, high expectations.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.84,0:08:22.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Two, three... Falling!
Dialogue: 0,0:08:24.13,0:08:26.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Aw, that was super soft!
Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.66,0:08:31.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we did three attempts, and all\Nof them had very similar
Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.69,0:08:35.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,horizontal velocity. \NNice, for consistency.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.79,0:08:38.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Next we tested the stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.24,0:08:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward method, and we can see that the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:40.88,0:08:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall was much shorter and had a much
Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.84,0:08:46.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,greater swing into the wall. It seemed
Dialogue: 0,0:08:46.76,0:08:48.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the belayer was pulled towards the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.68,0:08:51.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wall way too much, and did not have enough
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.72,0:08:55.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,control to make the fall smooth.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.92,0:09:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right next the jumping up method,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.08,0:09:07.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where Ricky actually did a very bad job
Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.20,0:09:08.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the first attempt.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:09.27,0:09:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the same happened on the
Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.28,0:09:14.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,second attempt where his jump was very
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.68,0:09:17.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minimal, only initiated a little bit from
Dialogue: 0,0:09:17.80,0:09:20.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his right calf. So that's not how you
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.68,0:09:23.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jump and that's why I decided to ignore
Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.48,0:09:26.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these two attempts for the poor technique,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.50,0:09:29.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and after he adjusted his technique\Non the third jump,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.92,0:09:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he jumped with both legs\Nand it was much much better.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:35.44,0:09:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally we did one passive
Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.52,0:09:40.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,catch where the belayer does nothing and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:40.00,0:09:42.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same as before, it causes significantly
Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.56,0:09:45.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,higher swing into the wall. So at least
Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.40,0:09:48.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in this test case scenario, tube slide
Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.20,0:09:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was the best, followed by jumping up, and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.40,0:09:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward was again the worst.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.72,0:09:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - So stepping forward versus uh
Dialogue: 0,0:09:57.00,0:10:01.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up \N[Climber] - Yes stepping forward was not
Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.08,0:10:04.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a controlled way. I was just pulled to
Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.36,0:10:06.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall. I tried to lean
Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.69,0:10:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,backwards to brake, to catch the fall
Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.20,0:10:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it was not in a controlled way, and
Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.52,0:10:15.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up I can choose how much I want
Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.88,0:10:17.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to jump and at what timing.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:17.65,0:10:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So overall which method is the \Nbest will heavily
Dialogue: 0,0:10:20.80,0:10:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depend on your experience using this
Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.80,0:10:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,methods, however stepping forward seemed
Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.00,0:10:29.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be the worst, and gave the least
Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.36,0:10:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,control, and also worth mentioning is
Dialogue: 0,0:10:32.16,0:10:35.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that standing too far in many situations
Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.40,0:10:37.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can drag the belayer into the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.84,0:10:40.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely uncontrollably.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:44.51,0:10:48.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that would make the catch even harder.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.49,0:10:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right but what if the belayer
Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.12,0:10:56.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is significantly heavier. In that case if
Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.16,0:10:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you try the jumping method there is not
Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.56,0:11:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much pull up by the rope, and jumping is
Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.96,0:11:04.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more difficult. So maybe stepping
Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.96,0:11:07.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward is better in this case.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.22,0:11:10.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To test that, Krushu \Nsuggested to introduce extra
Dialogue: 0,0:11:10.72,0:11:12.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,friction which basically makes the
Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.88,0:11:14.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belayer heavier.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:15.08,0:11:18.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Can we try like this?\N[Belayer] - He wants to kill me!
Dialogue: 0,0:11:19.50,0:11:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So that's what we got: a little
Dialogue: 0,0:11:23.04,0:11:25.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,zigzag in the beginning and then a
Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.96,0:11:29.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,straight line all the way to the climber.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.04,0:11:31.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the rope actually is not going over
Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.56,0:11:35.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the edge, it's just very sharp angled.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:36.51,0:11:38.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- He says you have to fall!
Dialogue: 0,0:11:39.23,0:11:41.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- One, two, three
Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.36,0:11:49.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The swing into the wall is...\N...okay-ish.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.52,0:11:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we started with jumping
Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.40,0:11:54.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method, which felt slightly harder with
Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.84,0:12:00.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increased friction, but still \Nplenty soft enough.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.12,0:12:02.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just take a look at this belayer
Dialogue: 0,0:12:02.44,0:12:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,running up the wall and even avoiding
Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.00,0:12:07.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his arm being squished into the first
Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.40,0:12:11.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quick draw. So let's see if
Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.16,0:12:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with increased friction stepping forward
Dialogue: 0,0:12:13.92,0:12:16.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be better. This time he was not
Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.44,0:12:18.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pulled into the wall uncontrollably
Dialogue: 0,0:12:18.56,0:12:21.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anymore. It also looks like he got the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:21.30,0:12:23.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,perfect timing and even started running
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.96,0:12:27.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward just before the impact, however
Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.68,0:12:30.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the swing into the wall for the climber
Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.20,0:12:34.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was still harder compared to \Nthe jumping method.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:34.67,0:12:38.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, next we did a series \Nof tube slide catches.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.49,0:12:41.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The first felt very nice and soft.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.26,0:12:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now the second fall had even
Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.84,0:12:46.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,softer impact with the wall however I
Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.84,0:12:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still had a lot of momentum downwards
Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.36,0:12:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which forced me almost \Nto run down the wall
Dialogue: 0,0:12:52.24,0:12:54.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is a little bit awkward.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:54.54,0:12:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the last fall had a very
Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.72,0:12:58.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar effect.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:59.44,0:13:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if we look into the best cases for
Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.64,0:13:04.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,each method, we can see that jumping up
Dialogue: 0,0:13:04.36,0:13:07.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tube slide were very very similar,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.40,0:13:11.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the stepping forward \Nwas slightly worse.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.09,0:13:14.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this bar chart plots all the falls.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.00,0:13:16.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we can see that on average, tube
Dialogue: 0,0:13:16.84,0:13:19.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slide method performed the best,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:19.20,0:13:23.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,followed by jumping up,\Nand then stepping forward was the worst.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:23.54,0:13:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now from pure feeling
Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.28,0:13:27.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standpoint for me as a climber, both
Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.92,0:13:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping up and tube slide methods felt
Dialogue: 0,0:13:30.84,0:13:33.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very nice and soft. Maybe if I would be
Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.72,0:13:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nitpicking this extra momentum downwards
Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.12,0:13:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes on the tube slide method was
Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.12,0:13:41.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slightly uncomfortable, although in
Dialogue: 0,0:13:41.28,0:13:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,theory the belayer should be able to give
Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.68,0:13:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,almost any kind of catch with this
Dialogue: 0,0:13:45.84,0:13:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,method and the stepping forward method
Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.04,0:13:51.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was maybe slightly harder, had slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:13:51.80,0:13:54.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bigger impact to the wall, however it was
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.60,0:13:57.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still plenty soft enough. And what is not
Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.80,0:14:01.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft enough is passive belays.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.08,0:14:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So once again, no matter \Nwhich soft catch method
Dialogue: 0,0:14:04.40,0:14:07.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we tried it was significantly better
Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.64,0:14:10.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than passive belay. \NAnd with added friction
Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.96,0:14:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the belayer wasn't even lifted off the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:13.44,0:14:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ground this time. Previously when we had
Dialogue: 0,0:14:16.12,0:14:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no friction, passive belay looked like
Dialogue: 0,0:14:18.80,0:14:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this: the belayer was still pulled up but
Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.32,0:14:25.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now with extra friction, that is not the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:25.24,0:14:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,case anymore and you can see how the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:27.12,0:14:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber is being pulled up and into the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:29.88,0:14:32.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wall even harder.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:34.84,0:14:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Okay that was...
Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.48,0:14:41.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,... that was the way it was.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:41.51,0:14:44.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So yeah don't forget to \Nsubscribe, I might need
Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.84,0:14:47.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,advertisement money to fix my broken
Dialogue: 0,0:14:47.40,0:14:49.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,body at old age.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.36,0:14:52.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - So what's your favorite \Nmethod?
Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.77,0:14:54.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - Yeah jumping up, yes.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.76,0:14:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay so we were leaning towards
Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.96,0:15:00.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jumping as our favorite method, but
Dialogue: 0,0:15:00.40,0:15:03.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what if the belayer is really really
Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.16,0:15:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,heavy, or there is so much friction in
Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.40,0:15:08.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the system that the rope almost doesn't
Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.12,0:15:11.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull the belayer up? In that case, you can
Dialogue: 0,0:15:11.58,0:15:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,jump... I don't know what \N30, 40 cm maybe 50
Dialogue: 0,0:15:17.84,0:15:21.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you're a crazy athlete... but is that
Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.08,0:15:23.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough for the soft catch?
Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.27,0:15:25.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this brings us to this experiment.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.42,0:15:28.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Here we did a series of falls, \Nalternating between
Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.68,0:15:30.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward and jumping up,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:30.65,0:15:34.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we measured the forces to the climber.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.12,0:15:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And same as before, jumping up was
Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.40,0:15:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,consistently better than stepping forward,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.48,0:15:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and doing nothing was
Dialogue: 0,0:15:40.88,0:15:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,significantly worse. And then we decided
Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.36,0:15:46.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to introduce this zigzag in the route, and
Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.36,0:15:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,although it doesn't look like much,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.28,0:15:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it actually added a ton of friction,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.24,0:15:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basically imitating a very heavy belayer.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.32,0:16:00.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - Wow! I couldn't jump at all!
Dialogue: 0,0:16:00.80,0:16:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And, as I was expecting,\Njumping up was not working
Dialogue: 0,0:16:04.48,0:16:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at all in this case, so let's see if
Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.28,0:16:11.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stepping forward is gonna be better.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.24,0:16:14.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Wow that was solid!
Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.54,0:16:18.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - 2.5, oh sh*t!
Dialogue: 0,0:16:18.74,0:16:21.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it actually was even worse.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.78,0:16:26.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - Man I cannot give you \Na soft catch this way!
Dialogue: 0,0:16:26.62,0:16:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So yeah no matter how much I tried
Dialogue: 0,0:16:28.56,0:16:31.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to jump, I was not able to give a
Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.56,0:16:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,truly soft catch, and stepping forward
Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.28,0:16:36.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was even worse.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.15,0:16:40.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - It's impossible to give\Na soft catch like this!
Dialogue: 0,0:16:40.09,0:16:44.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - To time well the stepping \Nforward on such a short fall
Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.22,0:16:47.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is nearly impossible.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:47.69,0:16:51.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now while it seemed that heavy\Nbelayers are doomed,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.21,0:16:53.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on this next experiment I actually
Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.84,0:16:56.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,discovered something that helps.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:56.44,0:16:59.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This time I was belaying a light girl,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:59.24,0:17:02.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and as before, I was also \Nstruggling to give a
Dialogue: 0,0:17:02.36,0:17:07.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft catch. The jumping \Nsimply did not work.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:07.33,0:17:10.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And neither did the \Nstepping forward method.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:11.27,0:17:13.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But then, I discovered something.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.47,0:17:20.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Better, better.\NThis one was soft!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.24,0:17:24.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Yeeeesss! \NIt's soft!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.88,0:17:28.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So yeah, turns out that bending the knees\Nwill give you more
Dialogue: 0,0:17:28.04,0:17:30.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,range of movement and in this test case
Dialogue: 0,0:17:30.80,0:17:34.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scenario it made a huge difference.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:34.30,0:17:36.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - If the fall was Wuuuuuuuuu
Dialogue: 0,0:17:36.44,0:17:41.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just super soft, and the others was Bung!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.35,0:17:43.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Belayer] - Like Bung? \N- Yeah yeah yeah!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.26,0:17:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- So it's Bung versus Wuuuuuuu.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:46.48,0:17:47.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - And we prefer Wuuu.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.48,0:17:49.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- You prefer Wuuuu.\N- Yeah!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.30,0:17:51.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And although I already
Dialogue: 0,0:17:51.44,0:17:53.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mentioned this in the first episode, but
Dialogue: 0,0:17:53.32,0:17:56.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's really important to stress that
Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.08,0:17:59.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simply throwing a lot of slack does not
Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.32,0:18:01.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mean a soft catch.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:08.46,0:18:10.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And in the case of a passive belay,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:10.38,0:18:12.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it can end up very badly.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:12.60,0:18:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the only reason she was fine in this
Dialogue: 0,0:18:14.88,0:18:17.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,case, was because she was falling
Dialogue: 0,0:18:17.28,0:18:19.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,straight down under the quick draw.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.99,0:18:23.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So all she felt was \Njust a jerk to the harness.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:23.22,0:18:25.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In a different situation with a
Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.36,0:18:28.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit of swing, that kind of catch
Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.20,0:18:30.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would probably break her ankles.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.10,0:18:33.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, instead of feeding a ton of slack for
Dialogue: 0,0:18:33.72,0:18:37.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your climber maybe you should... \Nfeed your climber?
Dialogue: 0,0:18:37.64,0:18:39.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as we saw If the fall is small,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:39.97,0:18:43.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bending the knees before\Nthe fall might help.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:43.45,0:18:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now in case of a big whipper
Dialogue: 0,0:18:45.28,0:18:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall naturally is much bigger, so you
Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.08,0:18:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will have more time to go down and
Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.48,0:18:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,explode up. And from a biomechanical
Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.80,0:18:55.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standpoint, since our muscles act as
Dialogue: 0,0:18:55.12,0:18:58.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,springs, going down and jumping up
Dialogue: 0,0:18:58.05,0:19:00.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should result into a higher jump.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:00.50,0:19:03.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if that doesn't help,\NI would suggest more
Dialogue: 0,0:19:03.40,0:19:06.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,food cycles, and if that's \Nnot an option,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.12,0:19:09.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then I've seen a method \Nused by a very heavy belayer,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:09.54,0:19:11.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which worked very well for him,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.40,0:19:15.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where he took a little bit of \Nslack with his lead hand,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:15.69,0:19:18.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and during the impact he
Dialogue: 0,0:19:18.04,0:19:20.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,used his lead hand to soften the catch.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:23.23,0:19:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is extremely important to not
Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.00,0:19:30.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have too much slack here \Nor you will burn your hand.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:30.05,0:19:31.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So be smart and use this
Dialogue: 0,0:19:31.60,0:19:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at your own risk. This is sketchy but
Dialogue: 0,0:19:34.56,0:19:36.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I've seen it working really well.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.61,0:19:39.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or alternatively, go old school and learn
Dialogue: 0,0:19:39.16,0:19:41.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how to use tube style belaying, then it
Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.62,0:19:43.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't matter what's \Nthe weight of the climber,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.94,0:19:46.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can always make a soft catch.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.23,0:19:48.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But of course that comes with \Nits own risks of not
Dialogue: 0,0:19:48.76,0:19:51.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,having an assisted belay device.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:51.05,0:19:54.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But for majority of you, \Njumping up is going to
Dialogue: 0,0:19:54.44,0:19:56.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be the best and if for whatever reason
Dialogue: 0,0:19:56.52,0:19:58.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you find yourself away from the wall,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:58.60,0:20:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then just do stepping forward, as we saw.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:01.96,0:20:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Whatever soft catch method is much
Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.48,0:20:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,better than passive belaying.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.08,0:20:08.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now I understand that this \Nvideo was full of
Dialogue: 0,0:20:08.28,0:20:10.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,charts and graphs, and chances are if
Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.84,0:20:12.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're still watching you're a
Dialogue: 0,0:20:12.28,0:20:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit nerdy, however I'm gonna make a
Dialogue: 0,0:20:14.80,0:20:17.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,separate video for my belay Master Class
Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.32,0:20:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I will go more on practical
Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.36,0:20:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,details, including those sketchy
Dialogue: 0,0:20:22.28,0:20:24.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,low-to-the-ground situations.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:24.13,0:20:27.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And also during these two years \Nwe have measured forces
Dialogue: 0,0:20:27.20,0:20:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on hundred of falls, so we have a lot of
Dialogue: 0,0:20:30.16,0:20:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,data. But as I explained in previous
Dialogue: 0,0:20:32.12,0:20:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episodes, peak force to the climber might
Dialogue: 0,0:20:34.84,0:20:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not be the most important factor
Dialogue: 0,0:20:36.80,0:20:38.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for sport climbers.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:39.01,0:20:41.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However that might be much more
Dialogue: 0,0:20:41.08,0:20:43.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,important for trad climbers.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:43.96,0:20:45.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Keep a good eye.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.22,0:20:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Climber] - Sh****t!
Dialogue: 0,0:20:49.44,0:20:50.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I guess this deserves an
Dialogue: 0,0:20:50.84,0:20:53.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,episode for trad climbers as well,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:53.24,0:20:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and all of these people and supporters
Dialogue: 0,0:20:55.64,0:20:57.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,deserve a huge thank you.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.69,0:21:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,None of this project would've \Nbeen possible without all of you.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.04,0:21:03.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you deserve some knowledge.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:04.61,0:21:06.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For the last 6 months I was
Dialogue: 0,0:21:06.20,0:21:08.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,warming up my brain in the mornings
Dialogue: 0,0:21:08.84,0:21:12.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with brilliant.org which is \Nan awesome online platform
Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.67,0:21:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for learning math, data science,
Dialogue: 0,0:21:14.88,0:21:17.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and computer science interactively.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:17.56,0:21:20.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Good morning Ben how are you?
Dialogue: 0,0:21:20.23,0:21:21.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Ah feeling like quaternion and
Dialogue: 0,0:21:21.83,0:21:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,four dimensional space \Nwith emotions twisting
Dialogue: 0,0:21:24.80,0:21:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like Möbius transformation and my mood
Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.96,0:21:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,transforming like eigenvector.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:29.60,0:21:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So no only you get deeper connections with
Dialogue: 0,0:21:31.92,0:21:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your smart friends, you also deepen your
Dialogue: 0,0:21:34.44,0:21:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scientific understanding of the world.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.64,0:21:39.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just imagine how your regular life
Dialogue: 0,0:21:39.32,0:21:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,problems will look when you will be
Dialogue: 0,0:21:41.44,0:21:44.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,contemplating that we are all just
Dialogue: 0,0:21:44.08,0:21:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,riding a giant rock through constantly
Dialogue: 0,0:21:47.12,0:21:50.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,expanding space, with supernovas and
Dialogue: 0,0:21:50.32,0:21:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,solar winds. Or maybe before human
Dialogue: 0,0:21:53.36,0:21:55.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thinking becomes obsolete...
Dialogue: 0,0:21:55.43,0:22:00.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Write a short math poem \Nin a style of...
Dialogue: 0,0:22:01.27,0:22:02.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:02.27,0:22:04.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You want to know how ChatGPT works?
Dialogue: 0,0:22:04.90,0:22:07.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So whenever you're are a complete beginner
Dialogue: 0,0:22:07.05,0:22:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or ready to dive into machine learning
Dialogue: 0,0:22:09.20,0:22:11.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and beyond, brilliant.org makes it easy
Dialogue: 0,0:22:11.88,0:22:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to level up fast, with \Nfun bite-sized lessons.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:15.76,0:22:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you can try all of this
Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.20,0:22:19.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely for free for 30 days
Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.60,0:22:22.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by visiting brilliant.org/HardIsEasy
Dialogue: 0,0:22:22.61,0:22:26.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the first 200 of you \Ncan also get 20% off
Dialogue: 0,0:22:26.12,0:22:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their annual premium subscriptions.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:28.52,0:22:31.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So thank you Brilliant for making sure
Dialogue: 0,0:22:31.72,0:22:35.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we still use our brain. \NAnd thank you for watching.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:35.61,0:22:38.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Enjoy your brain, and climbing,
Dialogue: 0,0:22:38.07,0:22:39.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and see you in the next one.
Dialogue: 0,0:22:39.41,0:22:41.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Now it's gonna be fun...
Dialogue: 0,0:22:41.83,0:22:44.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Feeling like quateri...
Dialogue: 0,0:22:46.00,0:22:49.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That word!