0:00:00.120,0:00:02.200
All right, welcome back to the largest

0:00:02.200,0:00:05.120
study on climbing falls. In the first

0:00:05.120,0:00:08.360
episode we looked how does extra slack

0:00:08.360,0:00:11.320
affect the fall, or more precisely does

0:00:11.320,0:00:14.320
falling more reduce the pendulum into

0:00:14.320,0:00:16.520
the wall and how hard the climber is

0:00:16.520,0:00:18.840
going to hit the wall. And then I showed

0:00:18.840,0:00:21.640
you the importance of soft catch and

0:00:21.640,0:00:25.359
what a massive difference that makes.

0:00:25.359,0:00:28.310
And also that hard catches are not only

0:00:28.310,0:00:30.599
the problem for heavier belayers.

0:00:30.599,0:00:33.320
Lighter belayers often lack practice to

0:00:33.320,0:00:35.760
give soft catches since most of the time

0:00:35.760,0:00:38.920
they don't need, they fly up anyway but

0:00:38.920,0:00:42.003
in exceptional cases [br]with enough friction...

0:00:42.003,0:00:44.039
- My foot [br]- What happened to your foot?

0:00:44.039,0:00:48.000
- Well it was a hard fall.[br]- Heavy belayer?

0:00:48.000,0:00:50.700
- Eh... Light belayer. Yeah.

0:00:50.700,0:00:53.756
Yeah. And I also asked you guys

0:00:53.756,0:00:55.320
- I'm curious, did you ever

0:00:55.320,0:00:59.776
got unexpectedly hard catch [br]from a light belayer?

0:00:59.776,0:01:01.879
And turns out this happens more

0:01:01.879,0:01:04.370
often than I thought.

0:01:04.370,0:01:06.040
So yeah, light or heavy, you're

0:01:06.040,0:01:08.119
going to love this episode because we're

0:01:08.119,0:01:10.320
going to investigate which method of

0:01:10.320,0:01:12.920
giving soft catch is the best. We're

0:01:12.920,0:01:16.000
going to compare stepping forward versus

0:01:16.000,0:01:19.000
jumping up, and as a bonus the tube slide

0:01:19.000,0:01:21.119
method where the belayer lets the rope

0:01:21.119,0:01:23.040
slide through the device, which is more

0:01:23.040,0:01:25.336
common in trad climbing.

0:01:25.336,0:01:27.386
So let's begin.

0:01:27.386,0:01:30.000
Now in the previous episode [br]I showed you this

0:01:30.000,0:01:32.799
beautiful horizontal velocity graphs

0:01:32.799,0:01:35.720
and I explained that [br]the peak of horizontal

0:01:35.720,0:01:38.240
velocity is at the bottom of the

0:01:38.240,0:01:40.720
pendulum, and that is a good indicator

0:01:40.720,0:01:44.159
how hard the climber would meet the wall

0:01:44.159,0:01:46.824
if the wall would not be overhanging.

0:01:46.824,0:01:49.200
And in this test I wanted to go a step

0:01:49.200,0:01:51.600
further and see what happens when the

0:01:51.600,0:01:56.129
climber meets the wall. [br][Climber] - One, two, three

0:01:57.884,0:01:59.840
And my idea this time was to

0:01:59.840,0:02:03.600
measure deceleration during the impact.

0:02:03.600,0:02:06.840
And in many of our test cases

0:02:06.840,0:02:09.840
this idea was working really well. If we

0:02:09.840,0:02:13.000
compare the soft catches to the hard one

0:02:13.000,0:02:16.650
you can see a huge spike in deceleration.

0:02:16.650,0:02:18.800
However, after doing lots

0:02:18.800,0:02:21.440
and lots of more falls and analyzing the

0:02:21.440,0:02:23.840
data, I realized that the peak

0:02:23.840,0:02:27.996
deceleration is not always [br]a good metric to look.

0:02:27.996,0:02:30.708
For example, take a look [br]at this hard catch.

0:02:30.708,0:02:32.080
You can visually see that it

0:02:32.080,0:02:35.080
was much harder for the climber, but the

0:02:35.080,0:02:38.200
peak deceleration was nearly identical

0:02:38.200,0:02:40.645
to the soft catches before.

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So, turns out our soft bodies [br]are incredible at absorbing impacts,

0:02:46.650,0:02:48.400
but the problem is that it's

0:02:48.400,0:02:50.080
very difficult to measure what's

0:02:50.080,0:02:53.131
happening in our muscles [br]during this impact.

0:02:53.131,0:02:54.959
So while peak deceleration was

0:02:54.959,0:02:57.040
interesting to look in some cases,

0:02:57.040,0:02:59.840
horizontal velocity at the moment of

0:02:59.840,0:03:03.190
impact was a much better indicator.

0:03:03.190,0:03:05.560
After all, all of this velocity [br]that we are

0:03:05.560,0:03:09.031
about to hit the wall, [br]will need to be absorbed

0:03:09.031,0:03:11.021
by our soft bodies.

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Okay, so let's see which method [br]to give a soft catch is the best.

0:03:16.079,0:03:21.271
To not kill me on the very first [br]test we started with smaller falls

0:03:21.271,0:03:24.200
and "jumping up" technique. And these

0:03:24.200,0:03:27.611
falls were extremely nice and soft.

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[Climber] - A soft ride!

0:03:32.217,0:03:36.100
So let's see how stepping [br]forward will compare.

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[Climber] - One, two, three

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- This is harder.

0:03:40.467,0:03:45.159
And the fall this time felt a [br]little bit harder and we can also

0:03:45.159,0:03:48.480
see that in the graphs. However overall

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it was still a very soft catch.

0:03:51.910,0:03:54.840
And the second fall was very similar.

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Also a quick note: I was not sure

0:03:58.040,0:04:01.040
how much stiffer the rope gets over

0:04:01.040,0:04:03.640
multiple falls, and even though in this

0:04:03.640,0:04:06.079
video I'm presenting you all the data

0:04:06.079,0:04:09.069
grouped by method, meaning at first I

0:04:09.069,0:04:10.879
show you all the soft catches with

0:04:10.879,0:04:13.480
"jumping up" method, then I show you all

0:04:13.480,0:04:15.760
the soft catches with stepping forward,

0:04:15.760,0:04:18.519
in reality we did alternate between the

0:04:18.519,0:04:21.320
methods between every fall. So we did a

0:04:21.320,0:04:24.629
jumping up and then stepping forward, etc.

0:04:24.629,0:04:26.600
Pointless information for most of

0:04:26.600,0:04:28.720
you, but I know that a lot of geeks are

0:04:28.720,0:04:30.919
watching my videos and they like to write

0:04:30.919,0:04:33.202
nitpicky comments.

0:04:33.202,0:04:35.508
So this is for you, nitpicky geek.

0:04:35.948,0:04:40.479
All right, now let's see how [br]the tube slide method compares.

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And while I was expecting a lot from this

0:04:42.520,0:04:47.240
method, the first fall wasn't any better.

0:04:47.240,0:04:50.039
The second fall had a very low momentum

0:04:50.039,0:04:53.600
into the wall but a lot of vertical

0:04:53.600,0:04:56.800
momentum, which made me almost run across

0:04:56.800,0:04:58.840
the wall, which was slightly

0:04:58.840,0:05:02.080
uncomfortable. So we tried again and this

0:05:02.080,0:05:06.000
time the fall was much nicer and I know

0:05:06.000,0:05:08.160
that people like to try all the crazy

0:05:08.160,0:05:10.479
things they see on the internet so

0:05:10.479,0:05:12.160
that's why I have to stress that this

0:05:12.160,0:05:14.960
tube slide method is really advanced, so

0:05:14.960,0:05:17.360
if you don't know what you're doing, make

0:05:17.360,0:05:20.400
sure that you have an expert guiding you.

0:05:20.400,0:05:22.360
Now if we would compare all the best

0:05:22.360,0:05:24.919
attempts of all the methods, we can see

0:05:24.919,0:05:28.000
that the jumping up was slightly better,

0:05:28.000,0:05:31.691
but overall all the methods [br]were very similar.

0:05:31.691,0:05:35.010
[Climber] - So all of these falls [br]felt quite soft,

0:05:35.010,0:05:37.045
except the one where he does nothing.

0:05:37.045,0:05:39.810
Then I fell to the wall.

0:05:39.810,0:05:42.199
Yeah we actually forgot [br]to film hard catches

0:05:42.199,0:05:44.859
where the belayer does nothing [br]on this test,

0:05:44.859,0:05:48.129
but no worries this was just a[br]small warm-up.

0:05:48.129,0:05:50.220
And let's see some bigger falls.

0:05:50.220,0:05:52.240
So this time we started with a

0:05:52.240,0:05:55.570
tube slide method,[br]which at least in theory

0:05:55.570,0:05:58.700
lets the belayer achieve[br]any fall arc.

0:05:58.700,0:06:00.960
And here is one more attempt

0:06:00.960,0:06:04.600
this time with even bigger arc or longer

0:06:04.600,0:06:07.800
braking distance, and the fall was just

0:06:07.800,0:06:10.750
a tiny bit softer for the climber.

0:06:10.750,0:06:12.639
For now I'm just gonna keep the softest

0:06:12.639,0:06:15.039
attempt in the charts and let's see how

0:06:15.039,0:06:18.278
does that compare to the [br]jumping up technique.

0:06:18.278,0:06:20.520
And we can see that the first

0:06:20.520,0:06:24.479
fall was slightly smaller, however it had

0:06:24.479,0:06:27.520
nearly identical horizontal acceleration

0:06:27.520,0:06:31.319
and velocity. However it also had lower

0:06:31.319,0:06:33.960
absolute velocity, which is actually

0:06:33.960,0:06:36.680
better for the climber. Now the second

0:06:36.680,0:06:40.919
fall was slightly smaller[br]but had a tiny bit

0:06:40.919,0:06:43.800
more horizontal velocity towards the wall

0:06:43.800,0:06:46.240
and again let's keep the best

0:06:46.240,0:06:49.039
attempts of each method and see how does

0:06:49.039,0:06:53.160
that compare to [br]the stepping forward technique.

0:06:54.370,0:06:55.840
And we can see that the fall

0:06:55.840,0:06:59.440
was smallest, however it had the greatest

0:06:59.440,0:07:02.599
impact to the wall. Now on the second

0:07:02.599,0:07:05.919
attempt the belayer did a much better job

0:07:05.919,0:07:09.560
and the fall was significantly softer.

0:07:09.560,0:07:11.479
And if we compare all the best attempts

0:07:11.479,0:07:13.680
of all the methods, we can see that the

0:07:13.680,0:07:16.680
horizontal speed at the moment of impact

0:07:16.680,0:07:19.879
was nearly identical. Which means that at

0:07:19.879,0:07:21.759
least in this test case scenario,

0:07:21.759,0:07:24.280
a skilled belayer can achieve almost the

0:07:24.280,0:07:27.440
same results with any method. But since

0:07:27.440,0:07:29.879
consistency in catches also matters,

0:07:29.879,0:07:33.440
if we compare the worst attempts,[br]tube slide method

0:07:33.440,0:07:36.070
was the best, followed by jumping up,

0:07:36.070,0:07:39.500
and then the stepping forward [br]was the worst.

0:07:39.500,0:07:42.479
However even the worst cases of

0:07:42.479,0:07:45.440
any of these methods were much much

0:07:45.440,0:07:49.280
better compared to the passive belay.

0:07:49.280,0:07:52.120
So the first arising takeaway was that no

0:07:52.120,0:07:54.199
matter which method you choose to give a

0:07:54.199,0:07:57.039
soft catch, it's going to be much better

0:07:57.039,0:07:58.960
than passively standing and doing

0:07:58.960,0:07:59.960
nothing.

0:07:59.960,0:08:03.280
And as always one test is no test, so I

0:08:03.280,0:08:05.400
wanted to repeat these tests in a

0:08:05.400,0:08:08.159
different location with another belayer.

0:08:08.159,0:08:11.599
Ricky who has also a lot of experience

0:08:11.599,0:08:14.319
using this tube slide method, and he told

0:08:14.319,0:08:16.940
me that it's actually [br]his preferred method.

0:08:16.940,0:08:19.599
So, high expectations.

0:08:19.839,0:08:22.136
[Climber] - Two, three... Falling!

0:08:24.130,0:08:26.100
- Aw, that was super soft!

0:08:27.662,0:08:31.690
So we did three attempts, and all[br]of them had very similar

0:08:31.690,0:08:35.789
horizontal velocity. [br]Nice, for consistency.

0:08:35.789,0:08:38.240
Next we tested the stepping

0:08:38.240,0:08:40.880
forward method, and we can see that the

0:08:40.880,0:08:43.839
fall was much shorter and had a much

0:08:43.839,0:08:46.760
greater swing into the wall. It seemed

0:08:46.760,0:08:48.680
that the belayer was pulled towards the

0:08:48.680,0:08:51.720
wall way too much, and did not have enough

0:08:51.720,0:08:55.379
control to make the fall smooth.

0:09:00.920,0:09:04.079
All right next the jumping up method,

0:09:04.079,0:09:07.200
where Ricky actually did a very bad job

0:09:07.200,0:09:08.880
on the first attempt.

0:09:09.270,0:09:11.279
And the same happened on the

0:09:11.279,0:09:14.680
second attempt where his jump was very

0:09:14.680,0:09:17.800
minimal, only initiated a little bit from

0:09:17.800,0:09:20.680
his right calf. So that's not how you

0:09:20.680,0:09:23.480
jump and that's why I decided to ignore

0:09:23.480,0:09:26.502
these two attempts for the poor technique,

0:09:26.502,0:09:29.918
and after he adjusted his technique[br]on the third jump,

0:09:29.920,0:09:33.280
he jumped with both legs[br]and it was much much better.

0:09:35.440,0:09:37.519
And finally we did one passive

0:09:37.519,0:09:40.000
catch where the belayer does nothing and

0:09:40.000,0:09:42.560
same as before, it causes significantly

0:09:42.560,0:09:45.399
higher swing into the wall. So at least

0:09:45.399,0:09:48.200
in this test case scenario, tube slide

0:09:48.200,0:09:51.399
was the best, followed by jumping up, and

0:09:51.399,0:09:54.079
stepping forward was again the worst.

0:09:54.719,0:09:57.000
[Belayer] - So stepping forward versus uh

0:09:57.000,0:10:01.079
jumping up [br][Climber] - Yes stepping forward was not

0:10:01.079,0:10:04.360
in a controlled way. I was just pulled to

0:10:04.360,0:10:06.690
the wall. I tried to lean

0:10:06.690,0:10:11.200
backwards to brake, to catch the fall

0:10:11.200,0:10:13.519
but it was not in a controlled way, and

0:10:13.519,0:10:15.880
jumping up I can choose how much I want

0:10:15.880,0:10:17.648
to jump and at what timing.

0:10:17.648,0:10:20.800
So overall which method is the [br]best will heavily

0:10:20.800,0:10:22.800
depend on your experience using this

0:10:22.800,0:10:26.000
methods, however stepping forward seemed

0:10:26.000,0:10:29.360
to be the worst, and gave the least

0:10:29.360,0:10:32.160
control, and also worth mentioning is

0:10:32.160,0:10:35.399
that standing too far in many situations

0:10:35.399,0:10:37.839
can drag the belayer into the wall

0:10:37.839,0:10:40.090
completely uncontrollably.

0:10:44.510,0:10:48.449
And that would make the catch even harder.

0:10:50.490,0:10:53.120
All right but what if the belayer

0:10:53.120,0:10:56.160
is significantly heavier. In that case if

0:10:56.160,0:10:58.560
you try the jumping method there is not

0:10:58.560,0:11:01.959
much pull up by the rope, and jumping is

0:11:01.959,0:11:04.959
much more difficult. So maybe stepping

0:11:04.959,0:11:07.221
forward is better in this case.

0:11:07.221,0:11:10.720
To test that, Krushu [br]suggested to introduce extra

0:11:10.720,0:11:12.880
friction which basically makes the

0:11:12.880,0:11:14.500
belayer heavier.

0:11:15.080,0:11:18.670
[Climber] - Can we try like this?[br][Belayer] - He wants to kill me!

0:11:19.496,0:11:23.040
So that's what we got: a little

0:11:23.040,0:11:25.959
zigzag in the beginning and then a

0:11:25.959,0:11:29.040
straight line all the way to the climber.

0:11:29.040,0:11:31.560
So the rope actually is not going over

0:11:31.560,0:11:35.160
the edge, it's just very sharp angled.

0:11:36.510,0:11:38.949
- He says you have to fall!

0:11:39.228,0:11:41.721
- One, two, three

0:11:44.365,0:11:49.523
The swing into the wall is...[br]...okay-ish.

0:11:49.523,0:11:51.399
So we started with jumping

0:11:51.399,0:11:54.839
method, which felt slightly harder with

0:11:54.839,0:12:00.120
increased friction, but still [br]plenty soft enough.

0:12:00.120,0:12:02.440
Just take a look at this belayer

0:12:02.440,0:12:05.000
running up the wall and even avoiding

0:12:05.000,0:12:07.399
his arm being squished into the first

0:12:07.399,0:12:11.160
quick draw. So let's see if

0:12:11.160,0:12:13.920
with increased friction stepping forward

0:12:13.920,0:12:16.440
will be better. This time he was not

0:12:16.440,0:12:18.560
pulled into the wall uncontrollably

0:12:18.560,0:12:21.297
anymore. It also looks like he got the

0:12:21.297,0:12:23.959
perfect timing and even started running

0:12:23.959,0:12:27.680
forward just before the impact, however

0:12:27.680,0:12:30.199
the swing into the wall for the climber

0:12:30.199,0:12:34.670
was still harder compared to [br]the jumping method.

0:12:34.670,0:12:38.492
Okay, next we did a series [br]of tube slide catches.

0:12:38.492,0:12:41.170
The first felt very nice and soft.

0:12:42.260,0:12:43.839
Now the second fall had even

0:12:43.839,0:12:46.839
softer impact with the wall however I

0:12:46.839,0:12:49.360
still had a lot of momentum downwards

0:12:49.360,0:12:52.240
which forced me almost [br]to run down the wall

0:12:52.240,0:12:54.010
which is a little bit awkward.

0:12:54.540,0:12:56.720
And the last fall had a very

0:12:56.720,0:12:58.702
similar effect.

0:12:59.440,0:13:01.639
And if we look into the best cases for

0:13:01.639,0:13:04.360
each method, we can see that jumping up

0:13:04.360,0:13:07.399
and tube slide were very very similar,

0:13:07.399,0:13:11.090
and the stepping forward [br]was slightly worse.

0:13:11.090,0:13:14.005
And this bar chart plots all the falls.

0:13:14.005,0:13:16.839
So we can see that on average, tube

0:13:16.839,0:13:19.196
slide method performed the best,

0:13:19.196,0:13:23.538
followed by jumping up,[br]and then stepping forward was the worst.

0:13:23.538,0:13:25.279
Now from pure feeling

0:13:25.279,0:13:27.920
standpoint for me as a climber, both

0:13:27.920,0:13:30.839
jumping up and tube slide methods felt

0:13:30.839,0:13:33.720
very nice and soft. Maybe if I would be

0:13:33.720,0:13:37.120
nitpicking this extra momentum downwards

0:13:37.120,0:13:39.120
sometimes on the tube slide method was

0:13:39.120,0:13:41.279
slightly uncomfortable, although in

0:13:41.279,0:13:43.680
theory the belayer should be able to give

0:13:43.680,0:13:45.839
almost any kind of catch with this

0:13:45.839,0:13:49.040
method and the stepping forward method

0:13:49.040,0:13:51.800
was maybe slightly harder, had slightly

0:13:51.800,0:13:54.600
bigger impact to the wall, however it was

0:13:54.600,0:13:57.800
still plenty soft enough. And what is not

0:13:57.800,0:14:01.082
soft enough is passive belays.

0:14:01.082,0:14:04.399
So once again, no matter [br]which soft catch method

0:14:04.399,0:14:07.639
we tried it was significantly better

0:14:07.639,0:14:10.959
than passive belay. [br]And with added friction

0:14:10.959,0:14:13.440
the belayer wasn't even lifted off the

0:14:13.440,0:14:16.120
ground this time. Previously when we had

0:14:16.120,0:14:18.800
no friction, passive belay looked like

0:14:18.800,0:14:22.320
this: the belayer was still pulled up but

0:14:22.320,0:14:25.240
now with extra friction, that is not the

0:14:25.240,0:14:27.120
case anymore and you can see how the

0:14:27.120,0:14:29.880
climber is being pulled up and into the

0:14:29.880,0:14:32.380
wall even harder.

0:14:34.839,0:14:38.480
[Climber] - Okay that was...

0:14:38.480,0:14:41.508
... that was the way it was.

0:14:41.508,0:14:44.839
So yeah don't forget to [br]subscribe, I might need

0:14:44.839,0:14:47.399
advertisement money to fix my broken

0:14:47.399,0:14:49.691
body at old age.

0:14:50.364,0:14:52.774
[Climber] - So what's your favorite [br]method?

0:14:52.774,0:14:54.759
[Belayer] - Yeah jumping up, yes.

0:14:54.759,0:14:56.959
Okay so we were leaning towards

0:14:56.959,0:15:00.399
jumping as our favorite method, but

0:15:00.399,0:15:03.160
what if the belayer is really really

0:15:03.160,0:15:05.399
heavy, or there is so much friction in

0:15:05.399,0:15:08.120
the system that the rope almost doesn't

0:15:08.120,0:15:12.439
pull the belayer up? In that case, you can

0:15:12.439,0:15:17.839
jump I don't know what 30 40 cm maybe 50

0:15:17.839,0:15:21.079
if you're a crazy athlete... but is that

0:15:21.079,0:15:23.680
enough for the soft catch? And this

0:15:23.680,0:15:26.079
brings us to this experiment: here we did

0:15:26.079,0:15:28.680
a series of falls, alternating between

0:15:28.680,0:15:31.399
stepping forward and jumping up and we

0:15:31.399,0:15:34.120
measured the forces to the climber.

0:15:34.120,0:15:36.399
And same as before, jumping up was

0:15:36.399,0:15:38.480
consistently better than stepping forward,

0:15:38.480,0:15:40.880
and doing nothing was

0:15:40.880,0:15:43.360
significantly worse. And then we decided

0:15:43.360,0:15:46.360
to introduce this zigzag in the route, and

0:15:46.360,0:15:49.279
although it doesn't look like much,

0:15:49.279,0:15:52.240
it actually added a ton of friction,

0:15:52.240,0:15:56.319
basically imitating a very heavy belayer.

0:15:56.319,0:16:00.801
[Belayer] - Wow! I couldn't jump at all!

0:16:00.801,0:16:04.480
And, as I was expecting,[br]jumping up was not working

0:16:04.480,0:16:07.279
at all in this case, so let's see if

0:16:07.279,0:16:11.289
stepping forward is going to be better.

0:16:12.240,0:16:14.659
[Climber] - Wow that was solid!

0:16:15.539,0:16:22.098
[Climber] - 2.5, oh sh*t! [br]And it actually was even worse.

0:16:23.778,0:16:26.619
[Belayer] - Man I cannot give you [br]a soft catch this way!

0:16:26.619,0:16:28.560
So yeah no matter how much I tried

0:16:28.560,0:16:31.560
to jump, I was not able to give a

0:16:31.560,0:16:34.279
truly soft catch, and stepping forward

0:16:34.279,0:16:36.419
was even worse.

0:16:37.149,0:16:40.152
[Belayer] - It's impossible to give[br]a soft catch like this!

0:16:40.152,0:16:42.569
To time well the stepping forward

0:16:42.569,0:16:44.440
on such a short fall

0:16:44.440,0:16:47.450
is nearly impossible.

0:16:47.688,0:16:51.600
Now while ,it seemed that heavy[br]belayers are doomed, on

0:16:51.600,0:16:53.839
this next experiment I actually

0:16:53.839,0:16:56.680
discovered something that helps.

0:16:56.680,0:16:59.800
This time I was belaying a light girl, and as

0:16:59.800,0:17:02.360
before, I was also struggling to give a

0:17:02.360,0:17:07.328
soft catch. The jumping [br]simply did not work.

0:17:07.328,0:17:09.270
And neither did the stepping

0:17:09.270,0:17:11.020
forward method.

0:17:11.270,0:17:13.949
But then I discovered something.

0:17:16.472,0:17:20.555
[Climber] - Better, better.[br]This one was soft!

0:17:22.793,0:17:24.878
It's soft!

0:17:24.878,0:17:28.039
So yeah, turns out that bending the knees[br]will give you more

0:17:28.039,0:17:30.799
range of movement and in this test case

0:17:30.799,0:17:34.299
scenario it made a huge difference.

0:17:34.299,0:17:36.440
[Climber] - If the fall was Wyuuuuuuuuu

0:17:36.440,0:17:41.569
Just super soft, and the others was Bump!

0:17:41.569,0:17:43.270
- Like Bum? [br]- Yeah yeah yeah!

0:17:43.270,0:17:47.480
- So it's Bum versus Yuuuuuuu.[br]- And we prefer Yuuu.

0:17:47.480,0:17:49.867
- You prefer Woooo.[br]- Yeah!

0:17:50.297,0:17:51.440
And although I already

0:17:51.440,0:17:53.320
mentioned this in the first episode, but

0:17:53.320,0:17:56.080
it's really important to stress that

0:17:56.080,0:17:59.320
simply throwing a lot of slack does not

0:17:59.320,0:18:01.618
mean a soft catch.

0:18:08.457,0:18:10.380
And in the case of a passive belay,

0:18:10.380,0:18:12.600
it can end up very badly.

0:18:12.600,0:18:14.880
And the only reason she was fine in this

0:18:14.880,0:18:17.280
case, was because she was falling

0:18:17.280,0:18:19.989
straight down under the quick draw.

0:18:19.989,0:18:22.520
So all she felt was just a jerk to the

0:18:22.520,0:18:25.360
harness. In a different situation with a

0:18:25.360,0:18:28.200
little bit of swing, that kind of catch

0:18:28.200,0:18:31.497
with would probably break her ankles.

0:18:31.497,0:18:33.720
So, instead of feeding a ton of slack for

0:18:33.720,0:18:37.643
your climber maybe you should... [br]feed your climber?

0:18:37.643,0:18:39.360
And as we saw If the fall is

0:18:39.360,0:18:42.159
small, bending the knees before the fall

0:18:42.159,0:18:45.280
might help. Now in case of a big whipper

0:18:45.280,0:18:48.080
the fall naturally is much bigger, so you

0:18:48.080,0:18:50.480
will have more time to go down and

0:18:50.480,0:18:52.799
explode up and from a biomechanical

0:18:52.799,0:18:55.120
standpoint since our muscles act as

0:18:55.120,0:18:58.440
springs, going down and jumping up should

0:18:58.440,0:19:01.200
result into a higher jump. Now if that

0:19:01.200,0:19:03.640
doesn't help I would suggest more food

0:19:03.640,0:19:06.480
cycles and if that's not an option then

0:19:06.480,0:19:08.960
I've seen a method used by a very heavy

0:19:08.960,0:19:11.400
belayer, which worked very well for him,

0:19:11.400,0:19:14.600
where he took a little bit of slack with

0:19:14.600,0:19:18.039
his lead hand and during the impact he

0:19:18.039,0:19:22.070
used his lead hand to soften the catch.

0:19:23.230,0:19:26.000
It is extremely important to not

0:19:26.000,0:19:28.880
have too much slack here or you will

0:19:28.880,0:19:31.600
burn your hand. So be smart and use this

0:19:31.600,0:19:34.559
at your own risk. This is sketchy but

0:19:34.559,0:19:36.612
I've seen it working really well.

0:19:36.612,0:19:39.159
Or alternatively go old school and learn

0:19:39.159,0:19:41.618
how to use tube style belaying, then it

0:19:41.618,0:19:43.939
doesn't matter what's [br]the weight of the climber

0:19:43.939,0:19:46.230
You can always make a soft catch.

0:19:46.230,0:19:48.760
But of course that comes with [br]its own risks of not

0:19:48.760,0:19:51.296
having an assisted belay device.

0:19:51.296,0:19:54.437
But for majority of you, [br]jumping up is going to

0:19:54.437,0:19:56.520
be the best and if for whatever reason

0:19:56.520,0:19:58.600
you find yourself away from the wall,

0:19:58.600,0:20:01.960
then just do stepping forward as we saw.

0:20:01.960,0:20:04.480
Whatever soft catch method is much

0:20:04.480,0:20:06.082
better than passive belaying.

0:20:06.082,0:20:08.280
Now I understand that this [br]video was full of

0:20:08.280,0:20:10.840
charts and graphs and chances are if

0:20:10.840,0:20:12.280
you're still watching you're a little

0:20:12.280,0:20:14.799
bit nerdy, however I'm going to make a

0:20:14.799,0:20:17.320
separate video for my belay Master Class

0:20:17.320,0:20:19.360
where I will go more on practical

0:20:19.360,0:20:22.320
details, including those sketchy

0:20:22.320,0:20:25.080
low-to-the-ground situations.[br]And also during

0:20:25.080,0:20:27.200
these two years we have measured forces

0:20:27.200,0:20:30.159
on hundred of falls, so we have a lot of

0:20:30.159,0:20:32.120
data. But as I explained in previous

0:20:32.120,0:20:34.840
episodes, peak force to the climber might

0:20:34.840,0:20:37.120
not be the most important factor for

0:20:37.120,0:20:38.486
sport climbers.

0:20:39.006,0:20:41.080
However that might be much more

0:20:41.080,0:20:43.530
important for trad climbers.

0:20:43.955,0:20:45.715
[Climber] - Keep a good eye.

0:20:48.220,0:20:49.436
[Climber] - Sh****t!

0:20:49.436,0:20:50.840
So I guess this deserves an

0:20:50.840,0:20:53.480
episode for trad climbers as well and

0:20:53.480,0:20:55.640
all of these people and supporters

0:20:55.640,0:20:58.280
deserve a huge thank you. None of this

0:20:58.280,0:21:00.400
project would've been possible without all

0:21:00.400,0:21:03.559
of you. And you deserve some knowledge.

0:21:03.559,0:21:06.200
For the last 6 months I was

0:21:06.200,0:21:09.000
warming up my brain in the mornings with

0:21:09.000,0:21:12.039
brilliant.org which is an awesome online

0:21:12.039,0:21:14.880
platform for learning math, data science,

0:21:14.880,0:21:17.559
and computer science interactively

0:21:17.559,0:21:20.230
- Good morning Ben how are you?

0:21:20.230,0:21:22.240
- Ah feeling like quaternion and

0:21:22.240,0:21:24.801
four dimensional space [br]with emotions twisting

0:21:24.801,0:21:26.960
like Möbius transformation and my mood

0:21:26.960,0:21:29.604
transforming like eigenvector.

0:21:29.604,0:21:31.919
So no only you get deeper connections with

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your smart friends, you also deepen your

0:21:34.440,0:21:36.640
scientific understanding of the world.

0:21:36.640,0:21:39.320
Just imagine how your regular life

0:21:39.320,0:21:41.440
problems will look when you will be

0:21:41.440,0:21:44.080
contemplating that we are all just

0:21:44.080,0:21:47.120
riding a giant rock through constantly

0:21:47.120,0:21:50.320
expanding space, with supernovas and

0:21:50.320,0:21:53.360
solar winds. Or maybe before human

0:21:53.360,0:21:55.429
thinking becomes obsolete...

0:21:55.429,0:22:01.182
- Write a short math poem [br]in a style of...

0:22:01.182,0:22:01.974
me.

0:22:02.274,0:22:05.039
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0:22:05.039,0:22:06.880
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0:22:06.880,0:22:09.200
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So thank you Brilliant for making sure

0:22:31.720,0:22:34.279
that we still use our brain and thank

0:22:34.279,0:22:37.080
you for watching. Enjoy your brain and

0:22:37.080,0:22:39.566
climbing and see you in the next one.

0:22:39.566,0:22:44.799
- Now it's gonna be fun... [br]Feeling like quateri...

0:22:46.000,0:22:49.240
That word!