0:00:00.120,0:00:02.200
all right welcome back to the largest

0:00:02.200,0:00:05.120
study on climbing falls in the first

0:00:05.120,0:00:08.360
episode we looked how does extra slack

0:00:08.360,0:00:11.320
affect the fall or more precisely does

0:00:11.320,0:00:14.320
falling more reduce the pendulum into

0:00:14.320,0:00:16.520
the wall and how hard the climber is

0:00:16.520,0:00:18.840
going to hit the wall and then I showed

0:00:18.840,0:00:21.640
you the importance of soft catch and

0:00:21.640,0:00:25.359
what a massive difference that makes and

0:00:25.359,0:00:28.400
also that hard catches are not only the

0:00:28.400,0:00:30.599
problem for heavier blers

0:00:30.599,0:00:33.320
lighter belayers often lack practice to

0:00:33.320,0:00:35.760
give soft catches since most of the time

0:00:35.760,0:00:38.920
they don't need they fly up anyway but

0:00:38.920,0:00:41.120
in exceptional cases with enough

0:00:41.120,0:00:44.039
friction my foot what happened to your

0:00:44.039,0:00:49.000
foot well it was a hot fall Havey blayer

0:00:49.000,0:00:52.840
H light player yeah yeah and I also

0:00:52.840,0:00:55.320
asked you guys I'm curious did you ever

0:00:55.320,0:00:58.600
got unexpectedly hard catch from a light

0:00:58.600,0:01:01.879
blayer and turns out this happens more

0:01:01.879,0:01:03.400
often than I

0:01:03.400,0:01:06.040
thought so yeah light or heavy you're

0:01:06.040,0:01:08.119
going to love this episode because we're

0:01:08.119,0:01:10.320
going to investigate which method of

0:01:10.320,0:01:12.920
giving soft catch is the best we're

0:01:12.920,0:01:16.000
going to compare stepping forward versus

0:01:16.000,0:01:19.000
jumping up and as a bonus the tube slide

0:01:19.000,0:01:21.119
method where the player lets the Rope

0:01:21.119,0:01:23.040
slide through the device which is more

0:01:23.040,0:01:24.799
common in TR

0:01:24.799,0:01:27.920
climbing so let's begin now in the

0:01:27.920,0:01:30.000
previous episode I showed you this

0:01:30.000,0:01:32.799
beautiful horizontal velocity graphs and

0:01:32.799,0:01:35.720
I explained that the peak of horizontal

0:01:35.720,0:01:38.240
velocity is at the bottom of the

0:01:38.240,0:01:40.720
pendulum and that is a good indicator

0:01:40.720,0:01:44.159
how hard the climber would meet the wall

0:01:44.159,0:01:46.960
if the wall would not be overhanging and

0:01:46.960,0:01:49.200
in this test I wanted to go a step

0:01:49.200,0:01:51.600
further and see what happens when the

0:01:51.600,0:01:56.759
climber meets the wall 2

0:01:56.920,0:01:59.840
3 and my idea this time was to make

0:01:59.840,0:02:03.600
measure deceleration during the

0:02:03.600,0:02:06.840
impact and in many of our test cases

0:02:06.840,0:02:09.840
this idea was working really well if we

0:02:09.840,0:02:13.000
compare the soft catches to the hard one

0:02:13.000,0:02:16.000
you can see a huge spike in

0:02:16.000,0:02:18.800
deceleration however after doing lots

0:02:18.800,0:02:21.440
and lots of more Falls and analyzing the

0:02:21.440,0:02:23.840
data I realized that the peak

0:02:23.840,0:02:26.959
deceleration is not always a good metric

0:02:26.959,0:02:29.480
to look for example take a look at this

0:02:29.480,0:02:32.080
heart catch you can visually see that it

0:02:32.080,0:02:35.080
was much harder for the climber but the

0:02:35.080,0:02:38.200
peak deceleration was nearly identical

0:02:38.200,0:02:41.159
to the soft catches before so it turns

0:02:41.159,0:02:44.519
out our soft bodies are incredible at

0:02:44.519,0:02:45.800
absorbing

0:02:45.800,0:02:48.400
impacts but the problem is that it's

0:02:48.400,0:02:50.080
very difficult to measure what's

0:02:50.080,0:02:52.319
happening in our muscles during this

0:02:52.319,0:02:54.959
impact so while Peak deceleration was

0:02:54.959,0:02:57.040
interesting to look in some cases

0:02:57.040,0:02:59.840
horizontal velocity at the moment of

0:02:59.840,0:03:03.280
impact was much better indicator after

0:03:03.280,0:03:05.560
all all of this velocity that we are

0:03:05.560,0:03:08.239
about to hit the wall will need to be

0:03:08.239,0:03:12.200
absorbed by our soft Bodies Okay so

0:03:12.200,0:03:14.400
let's see which method to give a soft

0:03:14.400,0:03:17.599
catch is the best to not kill me on the

0:03:17.599,0:03:20.280
very first test we started with smaller

0:03:20.280,0:03:24.200
Falls and jumping up technique and these

0:03:24.200,0:03:28.319
Falls were extremely nice and

0:03:28.680,0:03:30.360
soft

0:03:30.360,0:03:33.799
a soft ride so let's see how stepping

0:03:33.799,0:03:38.080
forward will compare 1 2

0:03:38.080,0:03:41.680
3 this is harder and the fall this time

0:03:41.680,0:03:45.159
felt a little bit harder and we can also

0:03:45.159,0:03:48.480
see that in the graphs however overall

0:03:48.480,0:03:50.920
it was still a very soft

0:03:50.920,0:03:54.840
catch and the second fall was very

0:03:54.840,0:03:58.040
similar also a quick note I was not sure

0:03:58.040,0:04:01.040
how much stiffer the rope gets over

0:04:01.040,0:04:03.640
multiple fs and even though in this

0:04:03.640,0:04:06.079
video I'm presenting you all the data

0:04:06.079,0:04:08.879
grouped by Method meaning at first I

0:04:08.879,0:04:10.879
show you all the soft catches with

0:04:10.879,0:04:13.480
jumping up method then I show you all

0:04:13.480,0:04:15.760
the soft catches with stepping forward

0:04:15.760,0:04:18.519
in reality we did alternate between the

0:04:18.519,0:04:21.320
methods between every fall so we did a

0:04:21.320,0:04:23.919
jumping up and then stepping forward etc

0:04:23.919,0:04:26.280
etc pointless information for most of

0:04:26.280,0:04:28.720
you but I know that a lot of Geeks are

0:04:28.720,0:04:30.919
watching my video and we like to write

0:04:30.919,0:04:34.240
nitpicky comments so this is for you

0:04:34.240,0:04:37.280
nitpicky geek all right now let's see

0:04:37.280,0:04:40.479
how the tube slide method Compares and

0:04:40.479,0:04:42.520
while I was expecting a lot from this

0:04:42.520,0:04:47.240
method the first fall wasn't any better

0:04:47.240,0:04:50.039
the second fall had a very low momentum

0:04:50.039,0:04:53.600
into the wall but a lot of vertical

0:04:53.600,0:04:56.800
momentum which made me almost run across

0:04:56.800,0:04:58.840
the wall which was slightly

0:04:58.840,0:05:02.080
uncomfortable so we tried again and this

0:05:02.080,0:05:06.000
time the fall was much nicer and I know

0:05:06.000,0:05:08.160
that people like to try all the crazy

0:05:08.160,0:05:10.479
things they see on the internet so

0:05:10.479,0:05:12.160
that's why I have to stress that this

0:05:12.160,0:05:14.960
tube slide method is really Advanced so

0:05:14.960,0:05:17.360
if you don't know what you're doing make

0:05:17.360,0:05:20.400
sure that you have an expert guiding you

0:05:20.400,0:05:22.360
now if we would compare all the best

0:05:22.360,0:05:24.919
attempts of all the methods we can see

0:05:24.919,0:05:28.000
that the jumping up was slightly better

0:05:28.000,0:05:30.919
but overall all the method they very

0:05:30.919,0:05:34.280
similar so all of these Falls felt quite

0:05:34.280,0:05:36.240
soft except the one where he does

0:05:36.240,0:05:39.960
nothing then I fell to the wall Yeah we

0:05:39.960,0:05:42.199
actually forgot to film hard catches

0:05:42.199,0:05:44.080
where the Blair does nothing on this

0:05:44.080,0:05:46.919
test but no worries this was just a

0:05:46.919,0:05:49.560
small warm-up and let's see some bigger

0:05:49.560,0:05:52.240
Falls so this time we started with a

0:05:52.240,0:05:54.880
tube slide method which at least in

0:05:54.880,0:05:58.120
theory lets the blayer achieve any full

0:05:58.120,0:06:00.960
Arc and here there is one more attempt

0:06:00.960,0:06:04.600
this time with even bigger Arc or longer

0:06:04.600,0:06:07.800
breaking distance and the fall was just

0:06:07.800,0:06:10.880
tiny bit softer for the climber for now

0:06:10.880,0:06:12.639
I'm just going to keep the softest

0:06:12.639,0:06:15.039
attempt in the charts and let's see how

0:06:15.039,0:06:17.880
does that compared to the jumping up

0:06:17.880,0:06:20.520
technique and we can see that the first

0:06:20.520,0:06:24.479
fall was slightly smaller however it had

0:06:24.479,0:06:27.520
nearly identical horizontal acceleration

0:06:27.520,0:06:31.319
and velocity however it also had lower

0:06:31.319,0:06:33.960
absolute velocity which is actually

0:06:33.960,0:06:36.680
better for the climber now the second

0:06:36.680,0:06:40.919
fall was slightly smaller but had a tiny

0:06:40.919,0:06:43.800
bit more horizontal velocity towards the

0:06:43.800,0:06:46.240
wall and again let's keep the best

0:06:46.240,0:06:49.039
attempts of each method and see how does

0:06:49.039,0:06:53.160
that compare to the stepping forward

0:06:53.160,0:06:55.840
technique and we can see that the fall

0:06:55.840,0:06:59.440
was smallest however it had the greatest

0:06:59.440,0:07:02.599
impact to the wall now on the second

0:07:02.599,0:07:05.919
attempt the bler did a much better job

0:07:05.919,0:07:09.560
and the fall was significantly softer

0:07:09.560,0:07:11.479
and if we compare all the best attempts

0:07:11.479,0:07:13.680
of all the methods we can see that the

0:07:13.680,0:07:16.680
horizontal speed at the moment of impact

0:07:16.680,0:07:19.879
was nearly identical which means that at

0:07:19.879,0:07:21.759
least in this test case scenario a

0:07:21.759,0:07:24.280
skilled belayer can achieve almost the

0:07:24.280,0:07:27.440
same results with any method but since

0:07:27.440,0:07:29.879
consistency in catches also matters if

0:07:29.879,0:07:33.440
we compare the worst attempts tube slide

0:07:33.440,0:07:35.800
method was the best followed by jumping

0:07:35.800,0:07:39.000
up and then the stepping forward was the

0:07:39.000,0:07:42.479
worst however even the worst cases of

0:07:42.479,0:07:45.440
any of these methods were much much

0:07:45.440,0:07:49.280
better compared to the passive DeLay So

0:07:49.280,0:07:52.120
the first arising takeaway was that no

0:07:52.120,0:07:54.199
matter which method you choose to give a

0:07:54.199,0:07:57.039
soft catch it's going to be much better

0:07:57.039,0:07:58.960
than passively standing and doing

0:07:58.960,0:07:59.960
nothing

0:07:59.960,0:08:03.280
and as always one test is no test so I

0:08:03.280,0:08:05.400
wanted to repeat these tests in a

0:08:05.400,0:08:08.159
different location with another belay

0:08:08.159,0:08:11.599
Ricky who has also a lot of experience

0:08:11.599,0:08:14.319
using this tube slide method and he told

0:08:14.319,0:08:16.240
me that it's actually his preferred

0:08:16.240,0:08:20.199
method so high expectations again two

0:08:20.199,0:08:23.080
three okay

0:08:23.639,0:08:26.360
falling that was

0:08:26.360,0:08:29.440
super so we did three attempts and all

0:08:29.440,0:08:32.880
of them had very similar horizontal

0:08:32.880,0:08:35.519
velocity nice

0:08:35.519,0:08:38.240
consistency next we tested the stepping

0:08:38.240,0:08:40.880
forward method and we can see that the

0:08:40.880,0:08:43.839
fall was much shorter and had a much

0:08:43.839,0:08:46.760
greater swing into the wall it seemed

0:08:46.760,0:08:48.680
that the Blair was pulled towards the

0:08:48.680,0:08:51.720
wall way too much and did not had enough

0:08:51.720,0:08:54.100
control to make the false

0:08:54.100,0:08:58.200
[Music]

0:08:58.200,0:09:00.920
move

0:09:00.920,0:09:04.079
all right next the jumping up method

0:09:04.079,0:09:07.200
where Ricky actually did a very bad job

0:09:07.200,0:09:08.880
on the first

0:09:08.880,0:09:11.279
attempt and the same happened on the

0:09:11.279,0:09:14.680
second attempt where his jump was very

0:09:14.680,0:09:17.800
minimal only initiated a little bit from

0:09:17.800,0:09:20.680
his right cuff so that's not how you

0:09:20.680,0:09:23.480
jump and that's why I decided to ignore

0:09:23.480,0:09:25.399
these two attempts for the poor

0:09:25.399,0:09:27.760
technique and after He adjusted his

0:09:27.760,0:09:29.920
technique on the third jump he jumped

0:09:29.920,0:09:34.480
with both legs and it was much much

0:09:34.680,0:09:37.519
better and finally we did one passive

0:09:37.519,0:09:40.000
catch where the Blair does nothing and

0:09:40.000,0:09:42.560
same as before it causes significantly

0:09:42.560,0:09:45.399
higher swing into the wall so at least

0:09:45.399,0:09:48.200
in this test case scenario tube slide

0:09:48.200,0:09:51.399
was the best followed by jumping up and

0:09:51.399,0:09:54.079
stepping forward was again the

0:09:54.079,0:09:57.000
worst so stepping forward versus uh

0:09:57.000,0:10:01.079
jumping up yes stepping forward was not

0:10:01.079,0:10:04.360
in a controlled way I was just pulled to

0:10:04.360,0:10:07.120
the wall mm I tried to lean

0:10:07.120,0:10:11.200
backwards to to break to catch a fall

0:10:11.200,0:10:13.519
but it was not in a controll way and

0:10:13.519,0:10:15.880
jumping up I can choose how much I want

0:10:15.880,0:10:18.680
to jump and at what timing so overall

0:10:18.680,0:10:20.800
which method is the best will heavily

0:10:20.800,0:10:22.800
depend on your experience using this

0:10:22.800,0:10:26.000
methods however stepping forward seemed

0:10:26.000,0:10:29.360
to be the worst and gave the least

0:10:29.360,0:10:32.160
control and also worth mentioning is

0:10:32.160,0:10:35.399
that standing too far in many situations

0:10:35.399,0:10:37.839
can drag the Blair into the wall

0:10:37.839,0:10:40.600
completely

0:10:40.920,0:10:43.600
uncontrollably okay now was

0:10:43.600,0:10:48.720
like and that would make the catch even

0:10:49.760,0:10:53.120
harder all right but what if the Blair

0:10:53.120,0:10:56.160
is significantly heavier in that case if

0:10:56.160,0:10:58.560
you try the jumping method there is not

0:10:58.560,0:11:01.959
much pull up by the rope and jumping is

0:11:01.959,0:11:04.959
much more difficult so maybe stepping

0:11:04.959,0:11:07.920
forward is better in this case to test

0:11:07.920,0:11:10.720
that kishu suggested to introduce extra

0:11:10.720,0:11:12.880
friction which basically makes the

0:11:12.880,0:11:14.320
blayer

0:11:14.320,0:11:18.040
heavier can we try like this he wants to

0:11:18.040,0:11:23.040
kill me so that's what we got a little

0:11:23.040,0:11:25.959
zigzag in the beginning and then a

0:11:25.959,0:11:29.040
straight line all the way to the climber

0:11:29.040,0:11:31.560
so the Rope actually is not going over

0:11:31.560,0:11:35.160
the edge it's just very sharp angle you

0:11:35.160,0:11:38.639
have to for sorry he says you have to

0:11:38.639,0:11:41.170
fall 1 2

0:11:41.170,0:11:43.360
[Music]

0:11:43.360,0:11:46.880
3 the swing into the wall

0:11:46.880,0:11:48.800
is

0:11:48.800,0:11:51.399
okayish so we started with jumping

0:11:51.399,0:11:54.839
method which felt slightly harder with

0:11:54.839,0:11:58.519
increased friction but still plenty soft

0:11:58.519,0:12:00.120
enough

0:12:00.120,0:12:02.440
yeah just take a look at this Bel

0:12:02.440,0:12:05.000
running up the wall and even avoiding

0:12:05.000,0:12:07.399
his arm being squished into the first

0:12:07.399,0:12:11.160
Quick Draw skills huh so let's see if

0:12:11.160,0:12:13.920
with increased friction stepping forward

0:12:13.920,0:12:16.440
will be better this time he was not

0:12:16.440,0:12:18.560
pulled into the wall uncontrollably

0:12:18.560,0:12:21.360
anymore it also looks like he got the

0:12:21.360,0:12:23.959
perfect timing and even started running

0:12:23.959,0:12:27.680
forward just before they impact however

0:12:27.680,0:12:30.199
they swing into the ball for the climber

0:12:30.199,0:12:33.880
was still harder compared to the jumping

0:12:33.880,0:12:36.959
method okay next we did a series of tube

0:12:36.959,0:12:40.240
slight catches the first felt very nice

0:12:40.240,0:12:43.839
and soft now the second fall had even

0:12:43.839,0:12:46.839
softer impact with the wall however I

0:12:46.839,0:12:49.360
still had a lot of momentum downwards

0:12:49.360,0:12:52.240
which forced me almost run down the wall

0:12:52.240,0:12:53.680
which is a little bit

0:12:53.680,0:12:56.720
awkward and the last fall had a very

0:12:56.720,0:12:57.839
similar

0:12:57.839,0:12:59.440
effect

0:12:59.440,0:13:01.639
and if we look into the best cases for

0:13:01.639,0:13:04.360
each method we can see that jumping up

0:13:04.360,0:13:07.399
and Tube slide were very very similar

0:13:07.399,0:13:10.240
and the stepping forward was slightly

0:13:10.240,0:13:13.120
worse and this bar chart plots all the

0:13:13.120,0:13:16.839
Falls so we can see that on average tube

0:13:16.839,0:13:19.519
slide method performed the best followed

0:13:19.519,0:13:22.120
by jumping up and then stepping forward

0:13:22.120,0:13:25.279
was the worst now from Pure feeling

0:13:25.279,0:13:27.920
standpoint for me as a climber both

0:13:27.920,0:13:30.839
jumping up and Tube slide methods felt

0:13:30.839,0:13:33.720
very nice and soft maybe if I would be

0:13:33.720,0:13:37.120
nitpicking this extra momentum downwards

0:13:37.120,0:13:39.120
sometimes on the tube slide method was

0:13:39.120,0:13:41.279
slightly uncomfortable although in

0:13:41.279,0:13:43.680
theory the blayer should be able to give

0:13:43.680,0:13:45.839
almost any kind of catch with this

0:13:45.839,0:13:49.040
method and the stepping forward method

0:13:49.040,0:13:51.800
was maybe slightly harder had slightly

0:13:51.800,0:13:54.600
bigger impact to the wall however it was

0:13:54.600,0:13:57.800
still plenty soft enough and what is not

0:13:57.800,0:14:01.759
soft enough is passive blay so once

0:14:01.759,0:14:04.399
again no matter which soft catch method

0:14:04.399,0:14:07.639
we tried it was significantly better

0:14:07.639,0:14:10.959
than passive Bay and with added friction

0:14:10.959,0:14:13.440
the Bayer wasn't even lifted off the

0:14:13.440,0:14:16.120
ground this time previously when we had

0:14:16.120,0:14:18.800
no friction passive blay looked like

0:14:18.800,0:14:22.320
this the blayer was still pulled up but

0:14:22.320,0:14:25.240
now with extra friction that is not the

0:14:25.240,0:14:27.120
case anymore and you can see how the

0:14:27.120,0:14:29.880
climber is being pulled up and into the

0:14:29.880,0:14:32.880
wall even

0:14:33.160,0:14:34.839
harder

0:14:34.839,0:14:38.480
yeah okay that

0:14:38.480,0:14:42.120
was that was the way it was so yeah

0:14:42.120,0:14:44.839
don't forget to subscribe I might need

0:14:44.839,0:14:47.399
advertisement money to fix my broken

0:14:47.399,0:14:51.639
body at old age so what's your favorite

0:14:51.639,0:14:54.759
method yeah jumping up jumping up yes

0:14:54.759,0:14:56.959
mhm okay so we were leaning towards

0:14:56.959,0:15:00.399
jumping as our favorite meth foot but

0:15:00.399,0:15:03.160
what if the blayer is really really

0:15:03.160,0:15:05.399
heavy or there is so much friction in

0:15:05.399,0:15:08.120
the system that the Rope Almost Doesn't

0:15:08.120,0:15:12.959
pull the Blair up in that case you can

0:15:12.959,0:15:17.839
jump I don't know what 30 40 cm maybe 50

0:15:17.839,0:15:21.079
if you're a crazy athlete but is that

0:15:21.079,0:15:23.680
enough for the soft catch and this

0:15:23.680,0:15:26.079
brings us to this experiment here we did

0:15:26.079,0:15:28.680
a series of false alternating between

0:15:28.680,0:15:31.399
stepping forward and jumping up and we

0:15:31.399,0:15:34.120
measured the forces to the climber and

0:15:34.120,0:15:36.399
same as before jumping up was

0:15:36.399,0:15:38.480
consistently better than stepping

0:15:38.480,0:15:40.880
forward and doing nothing was

0:15:40.880,0:15:43.360
significantly worse and then we decided

0:15:43.360,0:15:46.360
to introduce this zigzag in the rout and

0:15:46.360,0:15:49.279
although it doesn't look like much it

0:15:49.279,0:15:52.240
actually added a ton of friction

0:15:52.240,0:15:56.319
basically imitating a very heavy blay

0:15:56.319,0:16:01.319
what wa I couldn't jump at all and as I

0:16:01.319,0:16:04.480
was expecting jumping up was not working

0:16:04.480,0:16:07.279
at all in this case so let's see if

0:16:07.279,0:16:11.519
stepping forward is going to be better 2

0:16:12.000,0:16:14.279
1 wow that was

0:16:14.279,0:16:16.399
solid

0:16:16.399,0:16:22.680
2.5 oh [ __ ] Z and it actually was even

0:16:23.040,0:16:25.839
worse man I cannot give you a soft catch

0:16:25.839,0:16:28.560
this way so yeah no matter how much I

0:16:28.560,0:16:31.560
Tri to jump I was not able to give a

0:16:31.560,0:16:34.279
truly soft catch and stepping forward

0:16:34.279,0:16:35.959
was even

0:16:35.959,0:16:38.560
worse it's impossible to give a soft

0:16:38.560,0:16:41.399
catch like this to time well the

0:16:41.399,0:16:44.440
stepping forward and such a short fall

0:16:44.440,0:16:48.560
is nearly impossible yeah now while it

0:16:48.560,0:16:51.600
seemed that heavy blers are doomed on

0:16:51.600,0:16:53.839
this next experiment I actually

0:16:53.839,0:16:56.680
discovered something that helps this

0:16:56.680,0:16:59.800
time I was belaying a light girl and as

0:16:59.800,0:17:02.360
before I was also struggling to give a

0:17:02.360,0:17:06.480
soft catch the jumping simply did not

0:17:06.480,0:17:09.280
work and neither did the stepping

0:17:09.280,0:17:14.919
forward method but then I discovered

0:17:15.160,0:17:20.839
something better better this one was

0:17:21.079,0:17:25.919
soft yes it's soft so yeah turns out

0:17:25.919,0:17:28.039
that bending Den KN will give you more

0:17:28.039,0:17:30.799
range of movement and in this test case

0:17:30.799,0:17:34.039
scenario it made a huge difference it

0:17:34.039,0:17:36.440
the fall

0:17:36.440,0:17:39.919
was just super soft and the others was

0:17:39.919,0:17:44.840
boom like boom yeah yeah yeah so it's Bo

0:17:44.840,0:17:48.640
versus and we prefer wo you prefer woo

0:17:48.640,0:17:51.440
yeah yeah and although I already

0:17:51.440,0:17:53.320
mentioned this in the first episode but

0:17:53.320,0:17:56.080
it's really important to stress that

0:17:56.080,0:17:59.320
simply throwing a lot of Slack does not

0:17:59.320,0:18:03.559
mean a soft catch

0:18:05.120,0:18:09.320
okay this [ __ ] and in a case of a

0:18:09.320,0:18:12.600
passive Bay can end up very badly and

0:18:12.600,0:18:14.880
the only reason she was fine in this

0:18:14.880,0:18:17.280
case was because she was falling

0:18:17.280,0:18:20.039
straight down under the Quick Draw so

0:18:20.039,0:18:22.520
all she felt was just a jerk to the

0:18:22.520,0:18:25.360
harness in a different situation with a

0:18:25.360,0:18:28.200
little bit of swing that kind of catch

0:18:28.200,0:18:31.559
with would probably break her ankles so

0:18:31.559,0:18:33.720
instead of feeding a ton of slack for

0:18:33.720,0:18:36.960
your climber maybe you should feed your

0:18:36.960,0:18:39.360
climber and as we saw If the fall is

0:18:39.360,0:18:42.159
small bending the knees before the fall

0:18:42.159,0:18:45.280
might help now in case of a big whipper

0:18:45.280,0:18:48.080
the fall naturally is much bigger so you

0:18:48.080,0:18:50.480
will have more time to go down and

0:18:50.480,0:18:52.799
explode up and from B mechanical

0:18:52.799,0:18:55.120
standpoint since our muscles act as

0:18:55.120,0:18:58.440
Springs going down and jumping up should

0:18:58.440,0:19:01.200
result into a higher jump now if that

0:19:01.200,0:19:03.640
doesn't help I would suggest more food

0:19:03.640,0:19:06.480
cycles and if that's not an option then

0:19:06.480,0:19:08.960
I've seen a method used by a very heavy

0:19:08.960,0:19:11.400
Blair which worked very well for him

0:19:11.400,0:19:14.600
where he took a little bit of slack with

0:19:14.600,0:19:18.039
his lead hand and during the impact he

0:19:18.039,0:19:22.440
used his lead hand to soften the

0:19:22.520,0:19:26.000
catch it is extremely important to not

0:19:26.000,0:19:28.880
have too much slack here or you will

0:19:28.880,0:19:31.600
burn your hand so be smart and use this

0:19:31.600,0:19:34.559
at your own risk this is sketchy but

0:19:34.559,0:19:36.679
I've seen it working really well or

0:19:36.679,0:19:39.159
alternatively go old school and learn

0:19:39.159,0:19:41.919
how to use tube style BL then it doesn't

0:19:41.919,0:19:43.799
matter what's the weight of the climber

0:19:43.799,0:19:46.400
you can always make a soft catch but of

0:19:46.400,0:19:48.760
course that comes with its own risks of

0:19:48.760,0:19:51.480
not having assisted blade device but for

0:19:51.480,0:19:53.720
majority of you jumping up is going to

0:19:53.720,0:19:56.520
be the best and if for whatever reason

0:19:56.520,0:19:58.600
you find yourself away from the wall

0:19:58.600,0:20:01.960
then just do stepping forward as we saw

0:20:01.960,0:20:04.480
whatever soft catch method is much

0:20:04.480,0:20:06.679
better than passive delay now I

0:20:06.679,0:20:08.280
understand that this video was full of

0:20:08.280,0:20:10.840
charts and graphs and chances are if

0:20:10.840,0:20:12.280
you're still watching you're a little

0:20:12.280,0:20:14.799
bit nerdy however I'm going to make a

0:20:14.799,0:20:17.320
separate video for my blay Master Class

0:20:17.320,0:20:19.360
where I will go more on practical

0:20:19.360,0:20:22.320
details including those sketchy low to

0:20:22.320,0:20:25.080
the ground situations and also during

0:20:25.080,0:20:27.200
these two years we have measured forces

0:20:27.200,0:20:30.159
on hundred of Falls so we have a lot of

0:20:30.159,0:20:32.120
data but as I explained in previous

0:20:32.120,0:20:34.840
episodes Peak Force to the climber might

0:20:34.840,0:20:37.120
not be the most important factor for

0:20:37.120,0:20:38.240
sport

0:20:38.240,0:20:41.080
climbers however that might be much more

0:20:41.080,0:20:45.840
important for TR climbers keep a good

0:20:47.200,0:20:50.840
eye [ __ ] so I guess this deserves an

0:20:50.840,0:20:53.480
episode for trout climbers as well and

0:20:53.480,0:20:55.640
all of these people and supporters

0:20:55.640,0:20:58.280
deserve a huge thank you none of this

0:20:58.280,0:21:00.400
project would been possible without all

0:21:00.400,0:21:03.559
of you and you deserve some

0:21:03.559,0:21:06.200
knowledge for the last 6 months I was

0:21:06.200,0:21:09.000
warming up my brain in the mornings with

0:21:09.000,0:21:12.039
brilliant.org which is an awesome online

0:21:12.039,0:21:14.880
platform for learning math data science

0:21:14.880,0:21:17.559
and computer science

0:21:17.559,0:21:19.600
interactively good morning Ben how are

0:21:19.600,0:21:22.080
you ah feeling like Quan in for

0:21:22.080,0:21:24.440
dimensional space with emotions twisting

0:21:24.440,0:21:26.960
like meus transformation and my mood

0:21:26.960,0:21:29.880
transforming like like ien vector so not

0:21:29.880,0:21:31.919
only you get deeper connections with

0:21:31.919,0:21:34.440
your smart friends you also deepen your

0:21:34.440,0:21:36.640
scientific understanding of the world

0:21:36.640,0:21:39.320
just imagine how your regular life

0:21:39.320,0:21:41.440
problems will look when you will be

0:21:41.440,0:21:44.080
contemplating that we are all just

0:21:44.080,0:21:47.120
riding a giant rock through constantly

0:21:47.120,0:21:50.320
expanding space with supernovas and

0:21:50.320,0:21:53.360
solar winds or maybe before human

0:21:53.360,0:21:57.000
thinking becomes obsolete write a short

0:21:57.000,0:22:02.120
math point poem in a style of me you

0:22:02.120,0:22:05.039
want to know how Chad GPT works so

0:22:05.039,0:22:06.880
whenever you're are a complete beginner

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and Beyond brilliant.org makes it easy

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first 200 of you can also get 20% off

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their annual premium subscription

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so thank you brilliant for making sure

0:22:31.720,0:22:34.279
that we still use our brain and thank

0:22:34.279,0:22:37.080
you for watching enjoy your brain and

0:22:37.080,0:22:40.120
climbing and see you in the next one now

0:22:40.120,0:22:44.799
it's going to be fun feeling like

0:22:45.240,0:22:49.240
qu that word