1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,070 [Music] 2 00:00:05,070 --> 00:00:08,800 [Music] 3 00:00:08,800 --> 00:00:11,780 4 00:00:11,780 --> 00:00:20,240 [Music] 5 00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:21,840 whoa so 6 00:00:21,840 --> 00:00:23,519 it's not the sound that you want to hear 7 00:00:23,519 --> 00:00:25,060 when you're out climbing 8 00:00:25,060 --> 00:00:29,119 is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 9 00:00:29,279 --> 00:00:32,800 how fuzzy is too fuzzy 10 00:00:32,800 --> 00:00:34,880 this is the rope that i used for about 11 00:00:34,880 --> 00:00:37,680 two years of intense climbing 12 00:00:37,680 --> 00:00:40,000 or at least this is the end of this rope 13 00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,239 if i compare to the middle this is how 14 00:00:42,239 --> 00:00:45,039 the middle of the same rope looks 15 00:00:45,039 --> 00:00:47,200 and as you can see it's a huge 16 00:00:47,200 --> 00:00:49,039 difference 17 00:00:49,039 --> 00:00:51,760 so the question is should i worry about 18 00:00:51,760 --> 00:00:54,079 this fuzziness or another question that 19 00:00:54,079 --> 00:00:57,360 i see climbers disagree a lot on is if i 20 00:00:57,360 --> 00:01:00,160 can squeeze my rope like this does it 21 00:01:00,160 --> 00:01:02,800 mean that inside core strands are 22 00:01:02,800 --> 00:01:04,500 damaged or no 23 00:01:04,500 --> 00:01:07,777 so to avoid breaking my back on homemade 24 00:01:07,777 --> 00:01:10,152 experiments 25 00:01:10,152 --> 00:01:12,560 yeah as some of you noticed 26 00:01:12,560 --> 00:01:14,240 it can be quite stressful 27 00:01:14,240 --> 00:01:16,960 so not this time. This time i decided to 28 00:01:16,960 --> 00:01:19,920 reach out to Mammut and ask if by any 29 00:01:19,920 --> 00:01:22,479 chance i could come over and nerd with 30 00:01:22,479 --> 00:01:23,740 their engineers 31 00:01:23,740 --> 00:01:24,830 how dangerous is this? 32 00:01:24,830 --> 00:01:26,740 (laughs) we will find out 33 00:01:26,740 --> 00:01:28,970 so this is a product developer from 34 00:01:28,970 --> 00:01:30,080 Mammut 35 00:01:30,080 --> 00:01:32,560 and you said you're an expert in textiles 36 00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,044 would you whip on this? 37 00:01:34,044 --> 00:01:36,200 (uncomfortable noises) 38 00:01:37,200 --> 00:01:39,200 can we destroy this rope? I would say the 39 00:01:39,200 --> 00:01:41,920 core's joints won't fail if it's a normal 40 00:01:41,920 --> 00:01:42,920 sport climbing fall 41 00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:44,500 within the first fall? 42 00:01:44,500 --> 00:01:46,079 no no no not the first fall. 43 00:01:46,079 --> 00:01:47,569 Would you whip on this? 44 00:01:47,569 --> 00:01:48,739 Oh yes definitely. 45 00:01:48,739 --> 00:01:51,600 How many times? 46 00:01:51,600 --> 00:01:54,000 So this rope is not the same rope that 47 00:01:54,000 --> 00:01:56,640 we used in an experiment. That one was a 48 00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:58,980 little bit worse than this 49 00:01:58,980 --> 00:02:00,620 and it kind of died. 50 00:02:00,620 --> 00:02:02,060 Can ropes die? 51 00:02:02,060 --> 00:02:04,060 Anyway the goal was to find out what 52 00:02:04,060 --> 00:02:06,719 happens if you take a huge fall 53 00:02:06,719 --> 00:02:09,520 and this soft spot hits on your 54 00:02:09,520 --> 00:02:10,560 quickdraw 55 00:02:10,560 --> 00:02:13,360 exactly on the peak force and by the way 56 00:02:13,360 --> 00:02:16,239 this video is not sponsored but in case 57 00:02:16,239 --> 00:02:18,319 you don't know mammut is one of the 58 00:02:18,319 --> 00:02:21,440 oldest companies making climbing ropes 59 00:02:21,440 --> 00:02:23,760 so they have some serious knowledge 60 00:02:23,760 --> 00:02:27,059 about that so I wanted to know everything. 61 00:02:27,059 --> 00:02:28,720 Let's get nerdy! I have a 62 00:02:28,720 --> 00:02:31,120 bunch of questions from me and my 63 00:02:31,120 --> 00:02:31,850 followers 64 00:02:31,850 --> 00:02:32,830 Sounds great! 65 00:02:32,830 --> 00:02:34,299 Ah. You're probably gonna add 66 00:02:34,299 --> 00:02:35,519 10 000 more questions 67 00:02:35,519 --> 00:02:36,400 I'm sorry 68 00:02:36,400 --> 00:02:38,480 and by the way the questions that you 69 00:02:38,480 --> 00:02:39,840 guys sent 70 00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:40,959 had some 71 00:02:40,959 --> 00:02:43,879 serious sense of practicality 72 00:02:43,879 --> 00:02:47,599 a cat pees on my rope how bad is that? 73 00:02:47,599 --> 00:02:50,959 Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that? 74 00:02:50,959 --> 00:02:53,200 If you have a dry rope 75 00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:55,480 we test it with human pee 76 00:02:55,480 --> 00:02:57,570 because i mean if you're on a multipitch 77 00:02:57,570 --> 00:02:58,460 and you have to go 78 00:02:58,460 --> 00:03:00,400 so you actually did the testing on this? 79 00:03:00,400 --> 00:03:01,599 yes and 80 00:03:01,599 --> 00:03:04,480 the answer is no it's not dangerous. 81 00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:07,680 I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more 82 00:03:07,680 --> 00:03:09,762 aggressive than a human pee? 83 00:03:09,762 --> 00:03:13,180 hey let's go do some science 84 00:03:13,180 --> 00:03:15,350 so this is where the rope testing magic 85 00:03:15,350 --> 00:03:17,439 happens and this is where you get those 86 00:03:17,439 --> 00:03:19,860 six seven eight or whatever falls on the 87 00:03:19,860 --> 00:03:20,629 rope. 88 00:03:20,629 --> 00:03:21,639 Exactly yeah. 89 00:03:21,639 --> 00:03:22,359 Statistics. 90 00:03:22,359 --> 00:03:24,650 The scenario is like really really hard 91 00:03:24,650 --> 00:03:28,799 like we have a fall factor of around 1.7 92 00:03:28,799 --> 00:03:30,879 we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram 93 00:03:30,879 --> 00:03:33,120 steel mass which is like super static. 94 00:03:33,120 --> 00:03:35,440 What are the forces on standard tests? 95 00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:37,159 For a single rope it's 96 00:03:37,159 --> 00:03:39,269 around like 8 to 9 KN on the edge... 97 00:03:39,269 --> 00:03:40,294 For the first fall? 98 00:03:40,294 --> 00:03:41,440 For the first fall. 99 00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:43,329 And... we had the first problem. 100 00:03:43,329 --> 00:03:45,519 so called standard rope test that every 101 00:03:45,519 --> 00:03:48,959 manufacturer does is super extreme in 102 00:03:48,959 --> 00:03:50,959 order to make it more like a real 103 00:03:50,959 --> 00:03:53,760 climbing fall we needed to reduce it 104 00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:57,360 below 4 kilonewtons and if you ask why 4 105 00:03:57,360 --> 00:03:59,760 it means that you haven't seen these two 106 00:03:59,760 --> 00:04:01,840 videos where we tried to create their 107 00:04:01,840 --> 00:04:04,400 hardest real climbing falls and measure 108 00:04:04,400 --> 00:04:06,080 the forces of them. 109 00:04:06,080 --> 00:04:08,480 That's why I said like maybe we try like 110 00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:10,959 with a new rope to get like a feeling 111 00:04:10,959 --> 00:04:12,959 like what falling height we need to have 112 00:04:12,959 --> 00:04:16,320 like around this less than 4k and then 113 00:04:16,320 --> 00:04:19,680 we switch to your rope 114 00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:23,280 don't look guess 2km 2k 115 00:04:23,280 --> 00:04:26,160 i think it's less 116 00:04:26,720 --> 00:04:29,440 wow two and a half as i said these guys 117 00:04:29,440 --> 00:04:32,320 are really good it took only one fall 118 00:04:32,320 --> 00:04:34,400 and we got the force of two and a half 119 00:04:34,400 --> 00:04:37,199 kilonewtons on a brand new rope and that 120 00:04:37,199 --> 00:04:39,360 was perfect because we were estimating 121 00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:41,360 that once we swapped the ropes to the 122 00:04:41,360 --> 00:04:44,080 old one the force will go slightly 123 00:04:44,080 --> 00:04:46,880 higher because all the ropes don't 124 00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:49,680 absorb the impact as well and it's going 125 00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:52,000 to be a perfect representation of 126 00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:53,199 a realistic 127 00:04:53,199 --> 00:04:54,879 hard climbing fall. 128 00:04:54,879 --> 00:04:56,400 so here's the tricky part 129 00:04:56,400 --> 00:04:57,560 when you fall on rock 130 00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:01,520 sometimes it happens but almost the same 131 00:05:01,520 --> 00:05:03,199 spot hits the 132 00:05:03,199 --> 00:05:06,080 top carabiner -yeah 133 00:05:06,080 --> 00:05:08,960 and now the tricky part is how to place 134 00:05:08,960 --> 00:05:12,080 that spot that it would be on a peak 135 00:05:12,080 --> 00:05:14,470 force on the carabiner 136 00:05:14,470 --> 00:05:17,759 Yeah 137 00:05:17,759 --> 00:05:19,710 not easy or hard is easy. 138 00:05:19,710 --> 00:05:22,689 as you can imagine once the fall happens 139 00:05:22,689 --> 00:05:25,573 the rope stretches and that soft spot that 140 00:05:25,573 --> 00:05:28,740 we are trying to hit will move 141 00:05:28,740 --> 00:05:33,700 (Speaks German) 142 00:05:33,759 --> 00:05:35,600 You thought it's gonna be easy 143 00:05:35,600 --> 00:05:36,720 no no 144 00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:39,280 i knew it will be exactly like this the 145 00:05:39,280 --> 00:05:42,240 force to the rope will start increasing 146 00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:44,000 increasing increasing increasing 147 00:05:44,000 --> 00:05:46,000 increasing and at some point reaches the 148 00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:48,240 maximum and then the force will start 149 00:05:48,240 --> 00:05:49,759 dropping dropping dropping dropping 150 00:05:49,759 --> 00:05:50,880 dropping 151 00:05:50,880 --> 00:05:53,600 so the challenge is how to position the 152 00:05:53,600 --> 00:05:54,960 soft spot 153 00:05:54,960 --> 00:05:58,720 that it would move over the quick draw 154 00:05:58,720 --> 00:06:01,529 as close to the peak of the force 155 00:06:01,529 --> 00:06:02,960 with this 156 00:06:02,960 --> 00:06:05,840 small fall scenario a new rope oh 157 00:06:05,840 --> 00:06:08,479 it's about like what 400 158 00:06:08,479 --> 00:06:12,240 300 400 500 right 159 00:06:12,240 --> 00:06:16,479 a lot so new rope would hold about 400 160 00:06:16,479 --> 00:06:19,919 falls on realistic fall yeah let's see 161 00:06:19,919 --> 00:06:22,960 what happens if we put that damaged rope 162 00:06:22,960 --> 00:06:23,919 and see 163 00:06:23,919 --> 00:06:28,240 if it's hundreds or it's just a few. 164 00:06:39,919 --> 00:06:41,919 do you think we will hit that spot or we 165 00:06:41,919 --> 00:06:43,680 will be very far off? 166 00:06:43,680 --> 00:06:46,400 I think we hit it yeah 167 00:06:46,400 --> 00:06:49,039 where is it now like 30 centimeters 168 00:06:49,039 --> 00:06:50,080 below 169 00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:52,880 yeah it's around here now 170 00:06:52,880 --> 00:06:55,039 and the rope is tense so probably this 171 00:06:55,039 --> 00:06:56,560 will move up 172 00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:57,680 and 173 00:06:57,680 --> 00:07:01,960 how much we will see 174 00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:07,440 [Music] 175 00:07:07,440 --> 00:07:11,280 so we overshot the soft spot just by a 176 00:07:11,280 --> 00:07:13,919 little bit so we will try to readjust 177 00:07:13,919 --> 00:07:15,360 now and 178 00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:17,290 see if we can hit it more perfectly 179 00:07:17,290 --> 00:07:22,080 [Music] 180 00:07:22,080 --> 00:07:24,639 so we managed to hit the spot 181 00:07:24,639 --> 00:07:26,360 at 182 00:07:26,360 --> 00:07:29,599 2.47 kilonewtons of force now we will 183 00:07:29,599 --> 00:07:32,160 try to increase the fall a little bit to 184 00:07:32,160 --> 00:07:34,720 get to really hard falls 185 00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:36,319 20, 30 centimeters 186 00:07:36,319 --> 00:07:38,960 let's see if we will still stay in 187 00:07:38,960 --> 00:07:40,880 the damaged spot where it will just 188 00:07:40,880 --> 00:07:44,199 stretch over 189 00:07:47,840 --> 00:07:50,639 so we broke the sheath 190 00:07:50,639 --> 00:07:53,520 we broke the sheath after two falls 191 00:07:53,520 --> 00:07:56,720 and you said it's gonna last 192 00:07:56,720 --> 00:07:58,400 no but that's what i said like the 193 00:07:58,400 --> 00:08:00,000 sheath will break 194 00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:01,120 by force 195 00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:02,960 the force was 196 00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:04,879 only 2 point one 197 00:08:04,879 --> 00:08:06,960 only 2.1 kilonewtons and the sheath 198 00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:09,960 broke 199 00:08:13,199 --> 00:08:14,960 so 200 00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:16,639 if your rope is 201 00:08:16,639 --> 00:08:18,800 soft good luck 202 00:08:18,800 --> 00:08:22,240 if the sheath is already damaged like we 203 00:08:22,240 --> 00:08:24,240 saw it like now this will lead like to 204 00:08:24,240 --> 00:08:26,879 cut sheath like immediately but the 205 00:08:26,879 --> 00:08:28,560 the good thing is that the rope will not 206 00:08:28,560 --> 00:08:30,639 snap 207 00:08:30,639 --> 00:08:32,959 because the core strands like are 208 00:08:32,959 --> 00:08:36,399 still intact so how many falls it would 209 00:08:36,399 --> 00:08:39,839 take now to completely snap the rope 210 00:08:39,839 --> 00:08:41,760 that's a good question i never tested 211 00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:43,660 this 212 00:08:43,660 --> 00:08:45,519 but we could do this i guess we can do 213 00:08:45,519 --> 00:08:47,839 at least like two or three falls now 214 00:08:47,839 --> 00:08:48,729 only on the core strands 215 00:08:48,729 --> 00:08:49,620 yes yes 216 00:08:49,620 --> 00:08:52,120 guess how many falls it's going to take 217 00:08:52,120 --> 00:08:53,120 20 218 00:08:53,120 --> 00:08:57,760 20 yeah wow so it took only two falls 219 00:08:57,760 --> 00:09:00,110 to completely shred this sheath 220 00:09:00,110 --> 00:09:02,260 but the good thing is like a rope is 221 00:09:02,260 --> 00:09:04,959 constructed in a way that the sheath only 222 00:09:04,959 --> 00:09:07,360 takes around like 10 to 20 percent 223 00:09:07,360 --> 00:09:08,560 of the load 224 00:09:08,560 --> 00:09:10,399 and the rest like the the 225 00:09:10,399 --> 00:09:12,320 load bearing structure is basically only 226 00:09:12,320 --> 00:09:13,279 the core 227 00:09:13,279 --> 00:09:14,880 okay so 228 00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:16,800 the question is if you take a rope and 229 00:09:16,800 --> 00:09:18,720 you squeeze it so you feel that it's 230 00:09:18,720 --> 00:09:20,880 soft completely inside does it mean 231 00:09:20,880 --> 00:09:23,120 that the core is damaged or no? 232 00:09:23,120 --> 00:09:25,249 no because a lot of people think that 233 00:09:25,249 --> 00:09:26,354 it's damaged inside 234 00:09:26,354 --> 00:09:27,550 the core is still intact 235 00:09:27,550 --> 00:09:29,120 like if i would cut the rope at 236 00:09:29,120 --> 00:09:31,279 that spot would i find some damage 237 00:09:31,279 --> 00:09:33,500 inside of the core strands? 238 00:09:33,500 --> 00:09:35,910 It's difficult to say because over time 239 00:09:35,910 --> 00:09:37,950 the core strands also when we do fall 240 00:09:37,950 --> 00:09:39,830 tests you can see that it gets a 241 00:09:39,830 --> 00:09:41,360 little bit more hairy 242 00:09:41,360 --> 00:09:44,010 if you would cut it open but it's just 243 00:09:44,010 --> 00:09:45,839 a couple of filaments that might have 244 00:09:45,839 --> 00:09:48,080 broken but it's not that an entire core 245 00:09:48,080 --> 00:09:50,880 strand is broken but it's weakened for 246 00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:52,080 sure 247 00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:55,040 let's see if we can snap this room now 248 00:09:55,040 --> 00:09:58,240 yeah so how many falls you said? 249 00:09:58,240 --> 00:09:59,680 I don't know 250 00:09:59,680 --> 00:10:01,180 10 to 20? 251 00:10:01,180 --> 00:10:03,120 10 to 20. let's see 252 00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:05,599 so this is one multifilament. 253 00:10:05,599 --> 00:10:10,000 Multifilament made out of multiple filaments yes 254 00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:11,320 how much 255 00:10:11,320 --> 00:10:15,040 280. this is 280 inside of this so if i 256 00:10:15,040 --> 00:10:17,440 would take one 257 00:10:17,440 --> 00:10:21,360 what force that one thing would hold 258 00:10:21,360 --> 00:10:24,720 well you would not test it like this 259 00:10:24,720 --> 00:10:27,200 because a multifilament you look at it 260 00:10:27,200 --> 00:10:30,079 as the entire thing but what i can tell 261 00:10:30,079 --> 00:10:33,680 you that this core strand 262 00:10:33,680 --> 00:10:37,279 would hold 180 kilos and we are not even 263 00:10:37,279 --> 00:10:39,760 reaching very hard falls yet this is 264 00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,079 nothing 265 00:10:43,519 --> 00:10:47,149 -so you see? -One strand snapped. 266 00:10:47,200 --> 00:10:49,120 So you said 20 how many strands are 267 00:10:49,120 --> 00:10:50,390 inside? 268 00:10:50,390 --> 00:10:53,040 [Music] 269 00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:54,560 Two of eight! 270 00:10:54,560 --> 00:10:57,110 So you said 20 falls? 271 00:10:57,110 --> 00:10:59,050 10 to 20! 272 00:10:59,050 --> 00:11:02,480 Apart from standard drop tests what 273 00:11:02,480 --> 00:11:04,720 are other tests that are performed on 274 00:11:04,720 --> 00:11:06,880 -climbing ropes? - What we usually do is 275 00:11:06,880 --> 00:11:09,360 also test the abrasion resistance of the 276 00:11:09,360 --> 00:11:11,440 rope so there we have an in-house 277 00:11:11,440 --> 00:11:13,279 developed testing method. So it's a 278 00:11:13,279 --> 00:11:16,480 machine which pulls a rope over a sharp 279 00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:19,680 metal edge and we are counting how many 280 00:11:19,680 --> 00:11:22,000 cycles it takes for actually damaging 281 00:11:22,000 --> 00:11:23,760 the shaft. 282 00:11:23,760 --> 00:11:27,960 [Music] 283 00:11:29,360 --> 00:11:32,399 We have like two parts now broken. 284 00:11:32,399 --> 00:11:36,240 So we have one part and two parts broken! 285 00:11:36,240 --> 00:11:38,480 Yeah if we talk about abrasion resistant I 286 00:11:38,480 --> 00:11:40,720 have some interesting stuff to show you. 287 00:11:40,720 --> 00:11:44,160 200 cycles so 200 times 288 00:11:44,160 --> 00:11:46,640 back and forth. Here you see a classic 289 00:11:46,640 --> 00:11:49,440 rope so it does not have any treatment 290 00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:52,880 impregnation, it's a 9.5. It's pretty 291 00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:55,200 -worn out. -It is worn out! It's at the point 292 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:57,120 where i would consider maybe even 293 00:11:57,120 --> 00:11:59,839 -cutting this. -Yes, and you should. 294 00:11:59,839 --> 00:12:01,760 Then next to it, we have 295 00:12:01,760 --> 00:12:04,720 also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment. 296 00:12:04,720 --> 00:12:08,160 -What? That's a huge difference! -Yes. 297 00:12:08,160 --> 00:12:10,639 That's exactly the same rope but just 298 00:12:10,639 --> 00:12:16,000 -dry treated? -Yes. that's a huge huge difference 299 00:12:16,079 --> 00:12:17,760 It feels a little bit burnt like 300 00:12:17,760 --> 00:12:20,150 when you touch it, 301 00:12:20,160 --> 00:12:22,000 it definitely got hot, 302 00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:23,680 like on the edge. 303 00:12:23,680 --> 00:12:26,240 So your six lives got a bit damaged. 304 00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,320 But that's good to know that you can climb. 305 00:12:28,320 --> 00:12:30,320 You can climb? You would climb on this?! 306 00:12:30,320 --> 00:12:31,440 I mean the Fitz Traverse 307 00:12:31,440 --> 00:12:33,839 was done by Sean Villanueva like with a 308 00:12:33,839 --> 00:12:35,680 sheath-cut rope, like from the 309 00:12:35,680 --> 00:12:37,760 beginning. On I think the second pitch or 310 00:12:37,760 --> 00:12:39,839 the third pitch he had a stone fall, and 311 00:12:39,839 --> 00:12:41,680 his rope already got cut. Like the sheath 312 00:12:41,680 --> 00:12:43,200 was completely damaged, and he did the 313 00:12:43,200 --> 00:12:45,600 whole Fitz Traverse with this rope then. 314 00:12:45,600 --> 00:12:48,320 He like rappelled a lot over it. 315 00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:52,160 Does the percentage of sheath versus core strands... 316 00:12:52,160 --> 00:12:54,869 -It's not always the same. -In sport climbing ropes? 317 00:12:54,899 --> 00:12:56,480 Yeah or like climbing 318 00:12:56,480 --> 00:12:58,160 -ropes in general. -It's not always the 319 00:12:58,160 --> 00:12:59,200 -same now? -No. 320 00:12:59,200 --> 00:13:01,920 -And what does it depend on? -Well for us 321 00:13:01,920 --> 00:13:03,920 it depends on what kind of rope we want 322 00:13:03,920 --> 00:13:06,399 -to make. -Sport Climbing. 323 00:13:06,399 --> 00:13:08,179 Wait let me show you something. 324 00:13:08,179 --> 00:13:10,480 -Show me something. -Okay so you have the interplay 325 00:13:10,480 --> 00:13:13,120 of both the percentage of material that 326 00:13:13,120 --> 00:13:16,079 is the sheath but also 327 00:13:16,079 --> 00:13:18,800 how the sheath was constructed. For example 328 00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:22,800 here on this rope we have more sheath 329 00:13:22,800 --> 00:13:24,720 twines so 330 00:13:24,720 --> 00:13:27,839 if you would count these 331 00:13:27,839 --> 00:13:31,440 singular ones, they are much more than on 332 00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:34,090 -this sheath. -oh yeah that's almost double, no? 333 00:13:34,639 --> 00:13:37,360 No it isn't but it's just a slight 334 00:13:37,360 --> 00:13:39,600 difference. But if you check out the 335 00:13:39,600 --> 00:13:40,959 surface 336 00:13:40,959 --> 00:13:44,800 you can see that here the little cubes 337 00:13:44,800 --> 00:13:47,600 that they form are smaller 338 00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:51,600 than on this one. So here we have a super 339 00:13:51,600 --> 00:13:54,399 fine surface of the of the sheath so if 340 00:13:54,399 --> 00:13:56,959 you for example would touch this one it 341 00:13:56,959 --> 00:13:59,120 -feels much rougher. -Yeah. 342 00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:00,880 so this is also what makes it more 343 00:14:00,880 --> 00:14:02,079 durable. 344 00:14:10,160 --> 00:14:12,240 So we are still very far from twenty but 345 00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:14,740 -what's the force? -Maybe I get some coffee huh? No? 346 00:14:14,740 --> 00:14:15,764 (Camera person) Yes! 347 00:14:15,764 --> 00:14:17,808 -It was already 3.4. 348 00:14:17,808 --> 00:14:20,399 It's increasing and increasing so the dynamic 349 00:14:20,399 --> 00:14:22,160 performance of the rope gets lower and 350 00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:23,580 lower and lower. 351 00:14:23,580 --> 00:14:26,959 This one here is our workhorse construction. It does not have 352 00:14:26,959 --> 00:14:29,440 any treatment but we're using the best 353 00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:31,920 and the finest yarns that we have to 354 00:14:31,920 --> 00:14:35,040 make this construction. And it also.. I 355 00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,680 would say you know it's as good as the 356 00:14:37,680 --> 00:14:39,680 -dry rope. -So why 357 00:14:39,680 --> 00:14:41,920 not all ropes are made this way where we 358 00:14:41,920 --> 00:14:44,860 have finer construction? 359 00:14:44,860 --> 00:14:46,320 Because price matters. 360 00:14:46,320 --> 00:14:48,720 Yeah now I would like to see not 200 cycles 361 00:14:48,720 --> 00:14:53,040 -but 1000. -Yes they come here. -Oh really? 362 00:14:53,040 --> 00:14:56,110 Not to 2000 but to 500. 363 00:14:56,110 --> 00:14:58,720 I would climb with 364 00:14:58,720 --> 00:15:01,360 this one, and with this one. Or if i have 365 00:15:01,360 --> 00:15:04,560 A risky day I would choose this. 366 00:15:04,560 --> 00:15:06,689 Do you have risky days? 367 00:15:06,689 --> 00:15:07,489 Sometimes... 368 00:15:07,489 --> 00:15:10,639 Turns out size or diameter is 369 00:15:10,639 --> 00:15:13,199 not all that matters when we talk about 370 00:15:13,199 --> 00:15:16,000 durability, construction, and extra 371 00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,880 treatments might have a bigger impact. 372 00:15:18,880 --> 00:15:21,040 It's a crazy difference, no? Having in 373 00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:22,880 mind that all of them will run through 374 00:15:22,880 --> 00:15:24,480 the same process to the point where 375 00:15:24,480 --> 00:15:28,240 super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked 376 00:15:28,240 --> 00:15:31,360 completely fine after 500 cycles of 377 00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:33,710 dragging it across the sharp edge... 378 00:15:33,710 --> 00:15:35,360 This one looks quite good. 379 00:15:35,360 --> 00:15:38,337 Like a little bit fuzzy but I would definitely use it. 380 00:15:38,337 --> 00:15:40,120 However much thicker 381 00:15:40,120 --> 00:15:43,279 9.5 millimeters rope, but old 382 00:15:43,279 --> 00:15:46,000 construction and no treatments, were 383 00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:47,699 completely done. 384 00:15:48,380 --> 00:15:51,839 My guess is five more falls and we snap it. 385 00:15:52,839 --> 00:15:55,440 -Maybe not -I think we have to increase, 386 00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:57,559 otherwise... yeah let's increase. 387 00:15:57,559 --> 00:16:00,000 Everybody wants harder falls but it's already 388 00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:01,759 getting harder, we went from a two and a 389 00:16:01,759 --> 00:16:04,047 half to three and a half. 390 00:16:04,047 --> 00:16:06,300 To increase? 391 00:16:06,300 --> 00:16:09,159 You can just dropping keep dropping it. Yeah keep dropping it. 392 00:16:09,159 --> 00:16:11,279 So I will get coffee 393 00:16:11,279 --> 00:16:14,519 -what do you want? -Coffee. -Espresso? 394 00:16:14,519 --> 00:16:15,519 -Lungo? -Lungo if possible. 395 00:16:15,519 --> 00:16:17,390 -Are you asking the viewer? -With milk? 396 00:16:17,390 --> 00:16:20,329 -Are you sending it to the viewers? -You want a coffee? 397 00:16:20,329 --> 00:16:23,040 Now one interesting observation I got while 398 00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:25,759 I was making this intro animation, 399 00:16:25,759 --> 00:16:27,839 which by the way took me multiple days 400 00:16:27,839 --> 00:16:29,600 and multiple attempts, 401 00:16:29,600 --> 00:16:32,720 was that while the rope is new, 402 00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:35,360 the file glides over the rope very 403 00:16:35,360 --> 00:16:37,920 smoothly and it's pretty hard to make 404 00:16:37,920 --> 00:16:40,320 any damage to it. But once the rope 405 00:16:40,320 --> 00:16:43,600 starts becoming fuzzy, it becomes easier 406 00:16:43,600 --> 00:16:46,320 to make some extra damage so it felt 407 00:16:46,320 --> 00:16:47,440 like the 408 00:16:47,440 --> 00:16:49,839 fuzziness or the damage to the rope is 409 00:16:49,839 --> 00:16:52,320 kind of exponential the worse it gets 410 00:16:52,320 --> 00:16:55,440 the easier it is to make it even worse. 411 00:16:55,440 --> 00:16:57,440 Oh yeah let's do again. Only six 412 00:16:57,440 --> 00:16:59,279 strands left. 413 00:16:59,279 --> 00:17:01,920 -(Offscreen) Whoah! -(Offcreen) So... okay 414 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:04,629 So you can come back already with your coffee! 415 00:17:04,629 --> 00:17:07,120 So the force went lower, but one 416 00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:08,959 -strand snapped. -(Offscreen) No, two! 417 00:17:08,959 --> 00:17:11,520 Two snapped but the sound of the strand 418 00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:13,439 snapping was (vocalizes) 419 00:17:13,439 --> 00:17:16,160 Is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 420 00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:17,760 It's not the sound that you want to hear 421 00:17:17,760 --> 00:17:19,679 when you're out climbing. 422 00:17:19,679 --> 00:17:23,199 Okay: the fun part. How fuzzy is too fuzzy 423 00:17:23,199 --> 00:17:26,319 or how soft the rope is too soft? When 424 00:17:26,319 --> 00:17:29,039 -should people actually cut it? -I mean you 425 00:17:29,039 --> 00:17:31,039 pull the rope through your hands to 426 00:17:31,039 --> 00:17:33,280 check the ropes. This you should do on 427 00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:35,120 -a regular basis. -And what are you doing 428 00:17:35,120 --> 00:17:37,039 -when you're pulling? - Well, on the one hand 429 00:17:37,039 --> 00:17:40,080 I feel the rope so I feel how the 430 00:17:40,080 --> 00:17:43,360 rope behaves. If it's super soft, if it's 431 00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:45,280 thicker, and at the same time you know 432 00:17:45,280 --> 00:17:47,840 you you pull it over your finger and you 433 00:17:47,840 --> 00:17:50,000 look at it so you do like a visual 434 00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:51,660 inspection. 435 00:17:56,799 --> 00:17:59,120 Beautiful rope. Would whip. 436 00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:01,919 -Would you whip? -You would whip. 437 00:18:01,919 --> 00:18:04,880 Oh the force went lower again 438 00:18:04,880 --> 00:18:06,720 so basically the less core strands we 439 00:18:06,720 --> 00:18:08,760 have, the better the rope is. 440 00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:10,880 The softer the catch 441 00:18:11,440 --> 00:18:13,679 I wouldn't see it that way but... 442 00:18:13,679 --> 00:18:15,679 If you want a soft catch just break the 443 00:18:15,679 --> 00:18:16,559 rope. 444 00:18:16,559 --> 00:18:18,880 So let's say I'm running my rope through 445 00:18:18,880 --> 00:18:21,520 my hand and I find a spot which is 446 00:18:21,520 --> 00:18:24,480 softer. So how do I know if it's already 447 00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:26,614 bad or... 448 00:18:26,614 --> 00:18:28,400 First consider the whole rope. I mean 449 00:18:28,400 --> 00:18:30,320 if you have a really soft rope because 450 00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:31,919 they're... I mean some ropes are 451 00:18:31,919 --> 00:18:34,080 already soft when you you buy them in 452 00:18:34,080 --> 00:18:36,240 the store. I would say that our ropes 453 00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:38,880 are a little bit stiffer in general and 454 00:18:38,880 --> 00:18:40,460 we do that to make them more 455 00:18:40,460 --> 00:18:42,320 long-lasting but if your whole rope is 456 00:18:42,320 --> 00:18:44,170 very soft and you have a spot which is 457 00:18:44,170 --> 00:18:46,559 just a little bit softer, 458 00:18:46,559 --> 00:18:48,880 I would not like say oh 459 00:18:48,880 --> 00:18:50,960 that's super dangerous, but if you 460 00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:51,679 have 461 00:18:51,679 --> 00:18:53,600 the rope is generally really stiff and 462 00:18:53,600 --> 00:18:56,000 then you have one spot with this ultra 463 00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:57,440 soft then you know 464 00:18:57,440 --> 00:19:00,320 something is not right there. And exactly 465 00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:02,080 what's not right there 466 00:19:02,080 --> 00:19:04,880 there are so many things that it could be. 467 00:19:04,880 --> 00:19:07,280 So as an example if I would be 468 00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:09,760 just looking into this piece of the rope, 469 00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:11,840 it would be pretty difficult to say how 470 00:19:11,840 --> 00:19:15,315 soft it needs to be and if I should cut it. 471 00:19:15,315 --> 00:19:18,559 But if I compare it to the middle of the 472 00:19:18,559 --> 00:19:21,280 same rope, I can clearly see a big 473 00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:24,240 difference. So this clearly is far from 474 00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:26,400 what it used to be and it's better to 475 00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:28,880 cut this end. And if you want some tips 476 00:19:28,880 --> 00:19:33,039 on cutting ropes check out this video. 477 00:19:35,919 --> 00:19:38,000 I don't think we can do another one. 478 00:19:38,000 --> 00:19:39,919 Unfortunately the rope kept stretching 479 00:19:39,919 --> 00:19:42,320 and stretching and stretching until we 480 00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:44,559 almost reached the bottom of the drop 481 00:19:44,559 --> 00:19:46,559 tower and we couldn't do any more 482 00:19:46,559 --> 00:19:47,679 testing, 483 00:19:47,679 --> 00:19:50,799 however we decided to show what happens 484 00:19:50,799 --> 00:19:53,440 if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging 485 00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:56,320 on only core strands and you touch the 486 00:19:56,320 --> 00:19:58,640 core strands with the knife. 487 00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:00,960 Cut test 488 00:20:04,240 --> 00:20:07,440 -It just barely touched it. -What did you do?! 489 00:20:07,440 --> 00:20:10,480 You went too long. 490 00:20:10,480 --> 00:20:11,760 What happened? 491 00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:14,400 but what happened 492 00:20:14,559 --> 00:20:16,559 so it didn't broke so i was right with 493 00:20:16,559 --> 00:20:19,440 10 to 20 right 494 00:20:19,440 --> 00:20:21,360 yes thanks 495 00:20:21,360 --> 00:20:24,000 so basically what we got is 496 00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:28,400 running very damaged rope on relatively 497 00:20:28,400 --> 00:20:29,600 hard dish 498 00:20:29,600 --> 00:20:32,159 maybe to normal foil yeah real case 499 00:20:32,159 --> 00:20:35,200 scenario ripped the sheath of the rope 500 00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:37,120 in just two falls which is very 501 00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:38,799 dangerous but then it was good to see 502 00:20:38,799 --> 00:20:41,039 that the rope did not snapped 503 00:20:41,039 --> 00:20:43,840 and only the core strands kept holding 504 00:20:43,840 --> 00:20:44,880 for 505 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:48,720 multiple more falls so 506 00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,200 but when he touched barely with the 507 00:20:51,200 --> 00:20:53,120 sharp knife the core strands he just 508 00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:55,520 barely touched it it snapped 509 00:20:55,520 --> 00:20:57,039 so if your 510 00:20:57,039 --> 00:20:58,720 shift gets away 511 00:20:58,720 --> 00:21:01,039 and then your rope runs across something 512 00:21:01,039 --> 00:21:03,200 sharp on the rock super dangerous 513 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:04,240 yeah 514 00:21:04,240 --> 00:21:05,840 i think now we're coming to the second 515 00:21:05,840 --> 00:21:07,919 scenario you wanna you wanna show when 516 00:21:07,919 --> 00:21:10,400 it comes to sharp edge scenarios yeah 517 00:21:10,400 --> 00:21:13,760 like the ropes don't have this high 518 00:21:13,760 --> 00:21:16,159 safety margin 519 00:21:16,159 --> 00:21:18,720 i hope that you are subscribed because 520 00:21:18,720 --> 00:21:20,799 the next experiment that i'm gonna show 521 00:21:20,799 --> 00:21:23,280 in the next video is gonna blow your 522 00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:26,559 mind and probably change a little bit 523 00:21:26,559 --> 00:21:28,799 the way you care about your climbing 524 00:21:28,799 --> 00:21:30,720 equipment 525 00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:34,480 okay now i need you to pee 526 00:21:34,480 --> 00:21:37,799 come on