1
00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,070
[Music]

2
00:00:05,070 --> 00:00:08,800
[Music]

3
00:00:08,800 --> 00:00:11,780


4
00:00:11,780 --> 00:00:20,240
[Music]

5
00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:21,840
whoa so

6
00:00:21,840 --> 00:00:23,519
it's not the sound that you want to hear

7
00:00:23,519 --> 00:00:25,060
when you're out climbing

8
00:00:25,060 --> 00:00:29,119
is it bad if I scream behind the camera?

9
00:00:29,279 --> 00:00:32,800
how fuzzy is too fuzzy

10
00:00:32,800 --> 00:00:34,880
this is the rope that i used for about

11
00:00:34,880 --> 00:00:37,680
two years of intense climbing

12
00:00:37,680 --> 00:00:40,000
or at least this is the end of this rope

13
00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,239
if i compare to the middle this is how

14
00:00:42,239 --> 00:00:45,039
the middle of the same rope looks

15
00:00:45,039 --> 00:00:47,200
and as you can see it's a huge

16
00:00:47,200 --> 00:00:49,039
difference

17
00:00:49,039 --> 00:00:51,760
so the question is should i worry about

18
00:00:51,760 --> 00:00:54,079
this fuzziness or another question that

19
00:00:54,079 --> 00:00:57,360
i see climbers disagree a lot on is if i

20
00:00:57,360 --> 00:01:00,160
can squeeze my rope like this does it

21
00:01:00,160 --> 00:01:02,800
mean that inside core strands are

22
00:01:02,800 --> 00:01:04,500
damaged or no

23
00:01:04,500 --> 00:01:07,777
so to avoid breaking my back on homemade

24
00:01:07,777 --> 00:01:10,152
experiments

25
00:01:10,152 --> 00:01:12,560
yeah as some of you noticed

26
00:01:12,560 --> 00:01:14,240
it can be quite stressful

27
00:01:14,240 --> 00:01:16,960
so not this time. This time i decided to

28
00:01:16,960 --> 00:01:19,920
reach out to Mammut and ask if by any

29
00:01:19,920 --> 00:01:22,479
chance i could come over and nerd with

30
00:01:22,479 --> 00:01:23,740
their engineers

31
00:01:23,740 --> 00:01:24,830
how dangerous is this?

32
00:01:24,830 --> 00:01:26,740
(laughs) we will find out

33
00:01:26,740 --> 00:01:28,970
so this is a product developer from

34
00:01:28,970 --> 00:01:30,080
Mammut

35
00:01:30,080 --> 00:01:32,560
and you said you're an expert in textiles

36
00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,044
would you whip on this?

37
00:01:34,044 --> 00:01:36,200
(uncomfortable noises)

38
00:01:37,200 --> 00:01:39,200
can we destroy this rope? I would say the

39
00:01:39,200 --> 00:01:41,920
core's joints won't fail if it's a normal

40
00:01:41,920 --> 00:01:42,920
sport climbing fall

41
00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:44,500
within the first fall?

42
00:01:44,500 --> 00:01:46,079
no no no not the first fall.

43
00:01:46,079 --> 00:01:47,569
Would you whip on this?

44
00:01:47,569 --> 00:01:48,739
Oh yes definitely.

45
00:01:48,739 --> 00:01:51,600
How many times?

46
00:01:51,600 --> 00:01:54,000
So this rope is not the same rope that

47
00:01:54,000 --> 00:01:56,640
we used in an experiment. That one was a

48
00:01:56,640 --> 00:01:58,980
little bit worse than this

49
00:01:58,980 --> 00:02:00,620
and it kind of died.

50
00:02:00,620 --> 00:02:02,060
Can ropes die?

51
00:02:02,060 --> 00:02:04,060
Anyway the goal was to find out what

52
00:02:04,060 --> 00:02:06,719
happens if you take a huge fall

53
00:02:06,719 --> 00:02:09,520
and this soft spot hits on your

54
00:02:09,520 --> 00:02:10,560
quickdraw

55
00:02:10,560 --> 00:02:13,360
exactly on the peak force and by the way

56
00:02:13,360 --> 00:02:16,239
this video is not sponsored but in case

57
00:02:16,239 --> 00:02:18,319
you don't know mammut is one of the

58
00:02:18,319 --> 00:02:21,440
oldest companies making climbing ropes

59
00:02:21,440 --> 00:02:23,760
so they have some serious knowledge

60
00:02:23,760 --> 00:02:27,059
about that so I wanted to know everything.

61
00:02:27,059 --> 00:02:28,720
Let's get nerdy! I have a

62
00:02:28,720 --> 00:02:31,120
bunch of questions from me and my

63
00:02:31,120 --> 00:02:31,850
followers

64
00:02:31,850 --> 00:02:32,830
Sounds great!

65
00:02:32,830 --> 00:02:34,299
Ah. You're probably gonna add

66
00:02:34,299 --> 00:02:35,519
10 000 more questions

67
00:02:35,519 --> 00:02:36,400
I'm sorry

68
00:02:36,400 --> 00:02:38,480
and by the way the questions that you

69
00:02:38,480 --> 00:02:39,840
guys sent

70
00:02:39,840 --> 00:02:40,959
had some

71
00:02:40,959 --> 00:02:43,879
serious sense of practicality

72
00:02:43,879 --> 00:02:47,599
a cat pees on my rope how bad is that?

73
00:02:47,599 --> 00:02:50,959
Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that?

74
00:02:50,959 --> 00:02:53,200
If you have a dry rope

75
00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:55,480
we test it with human pee

76
00:02:55,480 --> 00:02:57,570
because i mean if you're on a multipitch

77
00:02:57,570 --> 00:02:58,460
and you have to go

78
00:02:58,460 --> 00:03:00,400
so you actually did the testing on this?

79
00:03:00,400 --> 00:03:01,599
yes and

80
00:03:01,599 --> 00:03:04,480
the answer is no it's not dangerous.

81
00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:07,680
I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more

82
00:03:07,680 --> 00:03:09,762
aggressive than a human pee?

83
00:03:09,762 --> 00:03:13,180
hey let's go do some science

84
00:03:13,180 --> 00:03:15,350
so this is where the rope testing magic

85
00:03:15,350 --> 00:03:17,439
happens and this is where you get those

86
00:03:17,439 --> 00:03:19,860
six seven eight or whatever falls on the

87
00:03:19,860 --> 00:03:20,629
rope.

88
00:03:20,629 --> 00:03:21,639
Exactly yeah.

89
00:03:21,639 --> 00:03:22,359
Statistics.

90
00:03:22,359 --> 00:03:24,650
The scenario is like really really hard

91
00:03:24,650 --> 00:03:28,799
like we have a fall factor of around 1.7

92
00:03:28,799 --> 00:03:30,879
we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram

93
00:03:30,879 --> 00:03:33,120
steel mass which is like super static.

94
00:03:33,120 --> 00:03:35,440
What are the forces on standard tests?

95
00:03:35,440 --> 00:03:37,159
For a single rope it's

96
00:03:37,159 --> 00:03:39,269
around like 8 to 9 KN on the edge...

97
00:03:39,269 --> 00:03:40,294
For the first fall?

98
00:03:40,294 --> 00:03:41,440
For the first fall.

99
00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:43,329
And... we had the first problem.

100
00:03:43,329 --> 00:03:45,519
so called standard rope test that every

101
00:03:45,519 --> 00:03:48,959
manufacturer does is super extreme in

102
00:03:48,959 --> 00:03:50,959
order to make it more like a real

103
00:03:50,959 --> 00:03:53,760
climbing fall we needed to reduce it

104
00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:57,360
below 4 kilonewtons and if you ask why 4

105
00:03:57,360 --> 00:03:59,760
it means that you haven't seen these two

106
00:03:59,760 --> 00:04:01,840
videos where we tried to create their

107
00:04:01,840 --> 00:04:04,400
hardest real climbing falls and measure

108
00:04:04,400 --> 00:04:06,080
the forces of them.

109
00:04:06,080 --> 00:04:08,480
That's why I said like maybe we try like

110
00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:10,959
with a new rope to get like a feeling

111
00:04:10,959 --> 00:04:12,959
like what falling height we need to have

112
00:04:12,959 --> 00:04:16,320
like around this less than 4k and then

113
00:04:16,320 --> 00:04:19,680
we switch to your rope

114
00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:23,280
don't look guess 2km 2k

115
00:04:23,280 --> 00:04:26,160
i think it's less

116
00:04:26,720 --> 00:04:29,440
wow two and a half as i said these guys

117
00:04:29,440 --> 00:04:32,320
are really good it took only one fall

118
00:04:32,320 --> 00:04:34,400
and we got the force of two and a half

119
00:04:34,400 --> 00:04:37,199
kilonewtons on a brand new rope and that

120
00:04:37,199 --> 00:04:39,360
was perfect because we were estimating

121
00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:41,360
that once we swapped the ropes to the

122
00:04:41,360 --> 00:04:44,080
old one the force will go slightly

123
00:04:44,080 --> 00:04:46,880
higher because all the ropes don't

124
00:04:46,880 --> 00:04:49,680
absorb the impact as well and it's going

125
00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:52,000
to be a perfect representation of

126
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:53,199
a realistic

127
00:04:53,199 --> 00:04:54,879
hard climbing fall.

128
00:04:54,879 --> 00:04:56,400
so here's the tricky part

129
00:04:56,400 --> 00:04:57,560
when you fall on rock

130
00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:01,520
sometimes it happens but almost the same

131
00:05:01,520 --> 00:05:03,199
spot hits the

132
00:05:03,199 --> 00:05:06,080
top carabiner -yeah

133
00:05:06,080 --> 00:05:08,960
and now the tricky part is how to place

134
00:05:08,960 --> 00:05:12,080
that spot that it would be on a peak

135
00:05:12,080 --> 00:05:14,470
force on the carabiner

136
00:05:14,470 --> 00:05:17,759
Yeah

137
00:05:17,759 --> 00:05:19,710
not easy or hard is easy.

138
00:05:19,710 --> 00:05:22,689
as you can imagine once the fall happens

139
00:05:22,689 --> 00:05:25,573
the rope stretches and that soft spot that

140
00:05:25,573 --> 00:05:28,740
we are trying to hit will move

141
00:05:28,740 --> 00:05:33,700
(Speaks German)

142
00:05:33,759 --> 00:05:35,600
You thought it's gonna be easy

143
00:05:35,600 --> 00:05:36,720
no no

144
00:05:36,720 --> 00:05:39,280
i knew it will be exactly like this the

145
00:05:39,280 --> 00:05:42,240
force to the rope will start increasing

146
00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:44,000
increasing increasing increasing

147
00:05:44,000 --> 00:05:46,000
increasing and at some point reaches the

148
00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:48,240
maximum and then the force will start

149
00:05:48,240 --> 00:05:49,759
dropping dropping dropping dropping

150
00:05:49,759 --> 00:05:50,880
dropping

151
00:05:50,880 --> 00:05:53,600
so the challenge is how to position the

152
00:05:53,600 --> 00:05:54,960
soft spot

153
00:05:54,960 --> 00:05:58,720
that it would move over the quick draw

154
00:05:58,720 --> 00:06:01,529
as close to the peak of the force

155
00:06:01,529 --> 00:06:02,960
with this

156
00:06:02,960 --> 00:06:05,840
small fall scenario a new rope oh

157
00:06:05,840 --> 00:06:08,479
it's about like what 400

158
00:06:08,479 --> 00:06:12,240
300 400 500 right

159
00:06:12,240 --> 00:06:16,479
a lot so new rope would hold about 400

160
00:06:16,479 --> 00:06:19,919
falls on realistic fall yeah let's see

161
00:06:19,919 --> 00:06:22,960
what happens if we put that damaged rope

162
00:06:22,960 --> 00:06:23,919
and see

163
00:06:23,919 --> 00:06:28,240
if it's hundreds or it's just a few.

164
00:06:39,919 --> 00:06:41,919
do you think we will hit that spot or we

165
00:06:41,919 --> 00:06:43,680
will be very far off?

166
00:06:43,680 --> 00:06:46,400
I think we hit it yeah

167
00:06:46,400 --> 00:06:49,039
where is it now like 30 centimeters

168
00:06:49,039 --> 00:06:50,080
below

169
00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:52,880
yeah it's around here now

170
00:06:52,880 --> 00:06:55,039
and the rope is tense so probably this

171
00:06:55,039 --> 00:06:56,560
will move up

172
00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:57,680
and

173
00:06:57,680 --> 00:07:01,960
how much we will see

174
00:07:02,940 --> 00:07:07,440
[Music]

175
00:07:07,440 --> 00:07:11,280
so we overshot the soft spot just by a

176
00:07:11,280 --> 00:07:13,919
little bit so we will try to readjust

177
00:07:13,919 --> 00:07:15,360
now and

178
00:07:15,360 --> 00:07:17,290
see if we can hit it more perfectly

179
00:07:17,290 --> 00:07:22,080
[Music]

180
00:07:22,080 --> 00:07:24,639
so we managed to hit the spot

181
00:07:24,639 --> 00:07:26,360
at

182
00:07:26,360 --> 00:07:29,599
2.47 kilonewtons of force now we will

183
00:07:29,599 --> 00:07:32,160
try to increase the fall a little bit to

184
00:07:32,160 --> 00:07:34,720
get to really hard falls

185
00:07:34,720 --> 00:07:36,319
20, 30 centimeters

186
00:07:36,319 --> 00:07:38,960
let's see if we will still stay in

187
00:07:38,960 --> 00:07:40,880
the damaged spot where it will just

188
00:07:40,880 --> 00:07:44,199
stretch over

189
00:07:47,840 --> 00:07:50,639
so we broke the sheath

190
00:07:50,639 --> 00:07:53,520
we broke the sheath after two falls

191
00:07:53,520 --> 00:07:56,720
and you said it's gonna last

192
00:07:56,720 --> 00:07:58,400
no but that's what i said like the

193
00:07:58,400 --> 00:08:00,000
sheath will break

194
00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:01,120
by force

195
00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:02,960
the force was

196
00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:04,879
only 2 point one

197
00:08:04,879 --> 00:08:06,960
only 2.1 kilonewtons and the sheath

198
00:08:06,960 --> 00:08:09,960
broke

199
00:08:13,199 --> 00:08:14,960
so

200
00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:16,639
if your rope is

201
00:08:16,639 --> 00:08:18,800
soft good luck

202
00:08:18,800 --> 00:08:22,240
if the sheath is already damaged like we

203
00:08:22,240 --> 00:08:24,240
saw it like now this will lead like to

204
00:08:24,240 --> 00:08:26,879
cut sheath like immediately but the

205
00:08:26,879 --> 00:08:28,560
the good thing is that the rope will not

206
00:08:28,560 --> 00:08:30,639
snap

207
00:08:30,639 --> 00:08:32,959
because the core strands like are

208
00:08:32,959 --> 00:08:36,399
still intact so how many falls it would

209
00:08:36,399 --> 00:08:39,839
take now to completely snap the rope

210
00:08:39,839 --> 00:08:41,760
that's a good question i never tested

211
00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:43,660
this

212
00:08:43,660 --> 00:08:45,519
but we could do this i guess we can do

213
00:08:45,519 --> 00:08:47,839
at least like two or three falls now

214
00:08:47,839 --> 00:08:48,729
only on the core strands

215
00:08:48,729 --> 00:08:49,620
yes yes

216
00:08:49,620 --> 00:08:52,120
guess how many falls it's going to take

217
00:08:52,120 --> 00:08:53,120
20

218
00:08:53,120 --> 00:08:57,760
20 yeah wow so it took only two falls

219
00:08:57,760 --> 00:09:00,110
to completely shred this sheath

220
00:09:00,110 --> 00:09:02,260
but the good thing is like a rope is

221
00:09:02,260 --> 00:09:04,959
constructed in a way that the sheath only

222
00:09:04,959 --> 00:09:07,360
takes around like 10 to 20 percent

223
00:09:07,360 --> 00:09:08,560
of the load

224
00:09:08,560 --> 00:09:10,399
and the rest like the the

225
00:09:10,399 --> 00:09:12,320
load bearing structure is basically only

226
00:09:12,320 --> 00:09:13,279
the core

227
00:09:13,279 --> 00:09:14,880
okay so

228
00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:16,800
the question is if you take a rope and

229
00:09:16,800 --> 00:09:18,720
you squeeze it so you feel that it's

230
00:09:18,720 --> 00:09:20,880
soft completely inside does it mean

231
00:09:20,880 --> 00:09:23,120
that the core is damaged or no?

232
00:09:23,120 --> 00:09:25,249
no because a lot of people think that

233
00:09:25,249 --> 00:09:26,354
it's damaged inside

234
00:09:26,354 --> 00:09:27,550
the core is still intact

235
00:09:27,550 --> 00:09:29,120
like if i would cut the rope at

236
00:09:29,120 --> 00:09:31,279
that spot would i find some damage

237
00:09:31,279 --> 00:09:33,500
inside of the core strands?

238
00:09:33,500 --> 00:09:35,910
It's difficult to say because over time

239
00:09:35,910 --> 00:09:37,950
the core strands also when we do fall

240
00:09:37,950 --> 00:09:39,830
tests you can see that it gets a

241
00:09:39,830 --> 00:09:41,360
little bit more hairy

242
00:09:41,360 --> 00:09:44,010
if you would cut it open but it's just

243
00:09:44,010 --> 00:09:45,839
a couple of filaments that might have

244
00:09:45,839 --> 00:09:48,080
broken but it's not that an entire core

245
00:09:48,080 --> 00:09:50,880
strand is broken but it's weakened for

246
00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:52,080
sure

247
00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:55,040
let's see if we can snap this room now

248
00:09:55,040 --> 00:09:58,240
yeah so how many falls you said?

249
00:09:58,240 --> 00:09:59,680
I don't know

250
00:09:59,680 --> 00:10:01,180
10 to 20?

251
00:10:01,180 --> 00:10:03,120
10 to 20. let's see

252
00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:05,599
so this is one multifilament.

253
00:10:05,599 --> 00:10:10,000
Multifilament made out of multiple filaments yes

254
00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:11,320
how much

255
00:10:11,320 --> 00:10:15,040
280. this is 280 inside of this so if i

256
00:10:15,040 --> 00:10:17,440
would take one

257
00:10:17,440 --> 00:10:21,360
what force that one thing would hold

258
00:10:21,360 --> 00:10:24,720
well you would not test it like this

259
00:10:24,720 --> 00:10:27,200
because a multifilament you look at it

260
00:10:27,200 --> 00:10:30,079
as the entire thing but what i can tell

261
00:10:30,079 --> 00:10:33,680
you that this core strand

262
00:10:33,680 --> 00:10:37,279
would hold 180 kilos and we are not even

263
00:10:37,279 --> 00:10:39,760
reaching very hard falls yet this is

264
00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,079
nothing

265
00:10:47,200 --> 00:10:49,120
so you said 20 how many strands are

266
00:10:49,120 --> 00:10:50,390
inside

267
00:10:50,390 --> 00:10:53,040
[Music]

268
00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:54,560
two of eight

269
00:10:54,560 --> 00:10:58,640
so you set 20 false and we have 10 to 20

270
00:10:58,640 --> 00:11:02,480
20. apart from standard drop tests what

271
00:11:02,480 --> 00:11:04,720
are other tests that are performed on

272
00:11:04,720 --> 00:11:06,880
climbing ropes what we usually do is

273
00:11:06,880 --> 00:11:09,360
also test the abrasion resistance of the

274
00:11:09,360 --> 00:11:11,440
rope so there we have an in-house

275
00:11:11,440 --> 00:11:13,279
developed testing method so it's a

276
00:11:13,279 --> 00:11:16,480
machine which pulls a rope over a sharp

277
00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:19,680
metal edge and we are counting how many

278
00:11:19,680 --> 00:11:22,000
cycles it takes for actually damaging

279
00:11:22,000 --> 00:11:23,760
the shaft

280
00:11:23,760 --> 00:11:27,960
[Music]

281
00:11:29,360 --> 00:11:32,399
we have like two parts now broken so we

282
00:11:32,399 --> 00:11:36,240
have one part and two parts broken yeah

283
00:11:36,240 --> 00:11:38,480
if we talk about abrasion resistant i

284
00:11:38,480 --> 00:11:40,720
have some interesting stuff to show is

285
00:11:40,720 --> 00:11:44,160
200 cycles so 200 times

286
00:11:44,160 --> 00:11:46,640
back and forth here you see a classic

287
00:11:46,640 --> 00:11:49,440
rope so it does not have any treatment

288
00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:52,880
impregnation it's a 9.5 it's pretty worn

289
00:11:52,880 --> 00:11:55,200
out it is worn out it's at the point

290
00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:57,120
where i would consider maybe even

291
00:11:57,120 --> 00:11:59,839
cutting this yes and you should then

292
00:11:59,839 --> 00:12:01,760
next to it we have

293
00:12:01,760 --> 00:12:04,720
also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment

294
00:12:04,720 --> 00:12:08,160
what that's a huge difference yes that's

295
00:12:08,160 --> 00:12:10,639
exactly the same rope but just dry treat

296
00:12:10,639 --> 00:12:16,000
it yes that's a huge huge difference

297
00:12:16,079 --> 00:12:17,760
it feels a little bit burnt like when

298
00:12:17,760 --> 00:12:18,720
you

299
00:12:18,720 --> 00:12:20,160
touch it

300
00:12:20,160 --> 00:12:22,000
it definitely got hot

301
00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:23,680
like on the edge

302
00:12:23,680 --> 00:12:26,240
so your six lives got a bit damaged but

303
00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,320
that's good to know and you can climb

304
00:12:28,320 --> 00:12:30,320
you can climb you would climb on this i

305
00:12:30,320 --> 00:12:31,440
mean the brits

306
00:12:31,440 --> 00:12:33,839
was done by jean villanova like with a

307
00:12:33,839 --> 00:12:35,680
sheet colored rope like from the

308
00:12:35,680 --> 00:12:37,760
beginning on i think in the second pitch

309
00:12:37,760 --> 00:12:39,839
of that pitch he had a stone fall and

310
00:12:39,839 --> 00:12:41,680
his rope already got cut like the sheet

311
00:12:41,680 --> 00:12:43,200
was completely damaged and he did the

312
00:12:43,200 --> 00:12:45,600
whole fits reverse with this rope then

313
00:12:45,600 --> 00:12:48,320
he like repaired a lot over it does the

314
00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:52,160
percentage of sheaf versus core strands

315
00:12:52,160 --> 00:12:54,079
it's not always the same in sport

316
00:12:54,079 --> 00:12:56,480
climbing ropes yeah or like climbing

317
00:12:56,480 --> 00:12:58,160
ropes in general it's not always the

318
00:12:58,160 --> 00:12:59,200
same now

319
00:12:59,200 --> 00:13:01,920
and what does it depend on well for us

320
00:13:01,920 --> 00:13:03,920
it depends on what kind of rope we want

321
00:13:03,920 --> 00:13:06,399
to make sport climbing

322
00:13:06,399 --> 00:13:08,399
wait let me show you something show me

323
00:13:08,399 --> 00:13:10,480
something okay so you have the interplay

324
00:13:10,480 --> 00:13:13,120
of both the percentage of material that

325
00:13:13,120 --> 00:13:16,079
is the chef but also

326
00:13:16,079 --> 00:13:18,800
how the chef was constructed for example

327
00:13:18,800 --> 00:13:22,800
here on this rope we have more chef

328
00:13:22,800 --> 00:13:24,720
twines so

329
00:13:24,720 --> 00:13:27,839
if you would count these

330
00:13:27,839 --> 00:13:31,440
singular ones they are much more than on

331
00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:33,440
this chef oh yeah that's almost double

332
00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:34,639
no

333
00:13:34,639 --> 00:13:37,360
no no it isn't but it's just a slight

334
00:13:37,360 --> 00:13:39,600
difference but if you check out the

335
00:13:39,600 --> 00:13:40,959
surface

336
00:13:40,959 --> 00:13:44,800
you can see that here the little cubes

337
00:13:44,800 --> 00:13:47,600
that they form are smaller

338
00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:51,600
than on this one so here we have a super

339
00:13:51,600 --> 00:13:54,399
fine surface of the of the chef so if

340
00:13:54,399 --> 00:13:56,959
you for example would touch this one it

341
00:13:56,959 --> 00:13:59,120
feels much rougher yeah

342
00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:00,880
so this is also what makes it more

343
00:14:00,880 --> 00:14:03,839
durable

344
00:14:10,160 --> 00:14:12,240
so we are still very far from twenty but

345
00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:14,839
what's the maybe i get some coffee

346
00:14:14,839 --> 00:14:18,320
huh it was already 3.4 yeah it's

347
00:14:18,320 --> 00:14:20,399
increasing and increasing so the dynamic

348
00:14:20,399 --> 00:14:22,160
performance of the rope gets low and

349
00:14:22,160 --> 00:14:24,720
lower and lower this one here is our

350
00:14:24,720 --> 00:14:26,959
workhorse construction it does not have

351
00:14:26,959 --> 00:14:29,440
any treatment but we're using the best

352
00:14:29,440 --> 00:14:31,920
and the finest yarns that we have to

353
00:14:31,920 --> 00:14:35,040
make this construction and it also i

354
00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,680
would say you know it's as good as the

355
00:14:37,680 --> 00:14:39,680
dry rope so why

356
00:14:39,680 --> 00:14:41,920
not all ropes are made this way where we

357
00:14:41,920 --> 00:14:43,600
have finer

358
00:14:43,600 --> 00:14:46,320
construction because price matters yeah

359
00:14:46,320 --> 00:14:48,720
now i would like to see not 200 cycles

360
00:14:48,720 --> 00:14:53,040
but 1 000. yes they come here oh really

361
00:14:53,040 --> 00:14:57,440
not the 2000 but the 500. i would climb

362
00:14:57,440 --> 00:14:58,720
with

363
00:14:58,720 --> 00:15:01,360
this one and with this one or if i have

364
00:15:01,360 --> 00:15:04,560
a risky day i would choose this

365
00:15:04,560 --> 00:15:06,399
do you have risky days

366
00:15:06,399 --> 00:15:10,639
sometimes turns out size or diameter is

367
00:15:10,639 --> 00:15:13,199
not all that matters when we talk about

368
00:15:13,199 --> 00:15:16,000
durability construction and extra

369
00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,880
treatments might have a bigger impact

370
00:15:18,880 --> 00:15:21,040
it's a crazy difference now having in

371
00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:22,880
mind that all of them will run through

372
00:15:22,880 --> 00:15:25,040
the same process to the point where

373
00:15:25,040 --> 00:15:28,240
super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked

374
00:15:28,240 --> 00:15:31,360
completely fine after 500 of cycles of

375
00:15:31,360 --> 00:15:33,600
dragging it across the sharp edge this

376
00:15:33,600 --> 00:15:35,360
one looks quite good

377
00:15:35,360 --> 00:15:37,279
like a little bit fuzzy but i would

378
00:15:37,279 --> 00:15:40,120
definitely use it however much thicker

379
00:15:40,120 --> 00:15:43,279
9.5 millimeters rope but old

380
00:15:43,279 --> 00:15:46,000
construction and no treatments were

381
00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:47,519
completely

382
00:15:47,519 --> 00:15:48,240
done

383
00:15:48,240 --> 00:15:51,839
my guess is five more falls and we

384
00:15:52,839 --> 00:15:55,440
snapped think we have to increase

385
00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:57,839
otherwise yeah let's increase everybody

386
00:15:57,839 --> 00:16:00,000
wants harder falls but it's already

387
00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:01,759
getting harder we went yeah two and a

388
00:16:01,759 --> 00:16:03,839
half to three and a half yeah to

389
00:16:03,839 --> 00:16:06,000
increase

390
00:16:06,000 --> 00:16:08,079
you can't just dropping keep dropping

391
00:16:08,079 --> 00:16:11,279
yeah keep dropping and we'll get coffee

392
00:16:11,279 --> 00:16:15,519
what do you want coffee espresso

393
00:16:15,519 --> 00:16:17,600
are you asking the viewer with milk are

394
00:16:17,600 --> 00:16:20,480
you sending me yes

395
00:16:20,639 --> 00:16:23,040
one interesting observation i got while

396
00:16:23,040 --> 00:16:25,759
i was making this intro animation

397
00:16:25,759 --> 00:16:27,839
which by the way took me multiple days

398
00:16:27,839 --> 00:16:29,600
and multiple attempts

399
00:16:29,600 --> 00:16:32,720
was that while the rope is new

400
00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:35,360
the file glides over the rope very

401
00:16:35,360 --> 00:16:37,920
smoothly and it's pretty hard to make

402
00:16:37,920 --> 00:16:40,320
any damage to it but once the rope

403
00:16:40,320 --> 00:16:43,600
starts becoming fuzzy it becomes easier

404
00:16:43,600 --> 00:16:46,320
to make some extra damage so it felt

405
00:16:46,320 --> 00:16:47,440
like the

406
00:16:47,440 --> 00:16:49,839
fuzziness or the damage to the rope is

407
00:16:49,839 --> 00:16:52,320
kind of exponential the worse it gets

408
00:16:52,320 --> 00:16:55,440
the easier it is to make it even worse

409
00:16:55,440 --> 00:16:57,440
oh yeah let's do again all these six

410
00:16:57,440 --> 00:16:59,279
tracks left

411
00:16:59,279 --> 00:17:00,880
whoa so

412
00:17:00,880 --> 00:17:01,920
okay

413
00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:04,079
so you can come back already with your

414
00:17:04,079 --> 00:17:07,120
coffee so the force went lower but one

415
00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:08,959
strand snapped

416
00:17:08,959 --> 00:17:11,520
too snapped but the sound of the strand

417
00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:13,439
snapping was good

418
00:17:13,439 --> 00:17:16,160
is it bad if i scream behind the camera

419
00:17:16,160 --> 00:17:17,760
it's not the sound that you want to hear

420
00:17:17,760 --> 00:17:19,679
when you're out climbing

421
00:17:19,679 --> 00:17:23,199
okay the fun part how fuzzy is too fuzzy

422
00:17:23,199 --> 00:17:26,319
or how soft the rope is too soft when

423
00:17:26,319 --> 00:17:29,039
should people actually cut it i mean you

424
00:17:29,039 --> 00:17:31,039
pull the rope through your hands how to

425
00:17:31,039 --> 00:17:33,280
to check the ropes this you should do on

426
00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:35,120
a regular basis and what are you doing

427
00:17:35,120 --> 00:17:37,039
when you're pulling well on the one hand

428
00:17:37,039 --> 00:17:40,080
i feel the rope so i feel the how the

429
00:17:40,080 --> 00:17:43,360
rope behaves if it's super soft if it's

430
00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:45,280
thicker and at the same time you know

431
00:17:45,280 --> 00:17:47,840
you you pull it over your finger and you

432
00:17:47,840 --> 00:17:50,000
look at it so you do like a visual

433
00:17:50,000 --> 00:17:52,640
inspection

434
00:17:56,799 --> 00:17:59,120
beautiful rope wood whip

435
00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:01,919
would you whip you would whip you would

436
00:18:01,919 --> 00:18:04,880
see oh the force went lower again

437
00:18:04,880 --> 00:18:06,720
so basically the less core strands we

438
00:18:06,720 --> 00:18:08,480
have the better the rope is the softer

439
00:18:08,480 --> 00:18:10,880
the catch

440
00:18:11,440 --> 00:18:13,679
i wouldn't see it that way but

441
00:18:13,679 --> 00:18:15,679
if you want a soft catch just break the

442
00:18:15,679 --> 00:18:16,559
rope

443
00:18:16,559 --> 00:18:18,880
so let's say i'm running my rope through

444
00:18:18,880 --> 00:18:21,520
my hand and i find that spot which is

445
00:18:21,520 --> 00:18:24,480
softer so how do i know if it's already

446
00:18:24,480 --> 00:18:25,600
bad

447
00:18:25,600 --> 00:18:28,400
or first consider the whole rope i mean

448
00:18:28,400 --> 00:18:30,320
if you have a really soft rope because

449
00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:31,919
they're hard i mean some ropes are

450
00:18:31,919 --> 00:18:34,080
already soft when you you buy them in

451
00:18:34,080 --> 00:18:36,240
the store huh i would say the hour ropes

452
00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:38,880
are a little bit stiffer in general and

453
00:18:38,880 --> 00:18:40,000
we do that to make them more

454
00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:42,320
long-lasting but if your whole rope is

455
00:18:42,320 --> 00:18:44,080
very soft and you have a spot which is

456
00:18:44,080 --> 00:18:46,559
just a little bit softer

457
00:18:46,559 --> 00:18:48,880
i would say i would not like say oh

458
00:18:48,880 --> 00:18:50,960
that's super dangerous huh but if you

459
00:18:50,960 --> 00:18:51,679
have

460
00:18:51,679 --> 00:18:53,600
the rope is generally really stiff and

461
00:18:53,600 --> 00:18:56,000
then you have one spot with this ultra

462
00:18:56,000 --> 00:18:57,440
soft then you know

463
00:18:57,440 --> 00:19:00,320
something is not right there and exactly

464
00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:02,080
what's not right there

465
00:19:02,080 --> 00:19:04,880
hey there is so many things that it

466
00:19:04,880 --> 00:19:07,280
could be so as an example if i would be

467
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:09,760
just looking into this piece of the rope

468
00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:11,840
it would be pretty difficult to say how

469
00:19:11,840 --> 00:19:14,640
soft it needs to be and if i should cut

470
00:19:14,640 --> 00:19:15,360
it

471
00:19:15,360 --> 00:19:16,400
but

472
00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:18,559
if i compare it to the middle of the

473
00:19:18,559 --> 00:19:21,280
same rope i can clearly see a big

474
00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:24,240
difference so this clearly is far from

475
00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:26,400
what it used to be and it's better to

476
00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:28,880
cut this end and if you want some tips

477
00:19:28,880 --> 00:19:33,039
on cutting ropes check out this video

478
00:19:33,980 --> 00:19:35,919
[Music]

479
00:19:35,919 --> 00:19:38,000
i don't think we can do another one

480
00:19:38,000 --> 00:19:39,919
unfortunately the rope kept stretching

481
00:19:39,919 --> 00:19:42,320
and stretching and stretching until we

482
00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:44,559
almost reached the bottom of the drop

483
00:19:44,559 --> 00:19:46,559
tower and we couldn't do any more

484
00:19:46,559 --> 00:19:47,679
testing

485
00:19:47,679 --> 00:19:50,799
however we decided to show what happens

486
00:19:50,799 --> 00:19:53,440
if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging

487
00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:56,320
on only core strands and you touch the

488
00:19:56,320 --> 00:19:58,640
core strands with the knife

489
00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:00,960
test

490
00:20:04,240 --> 00:20:07,440
it just barely dude

491
00:20:07,440 --> 00:20:10,480
you went too long

492
00:20:10,480 --> 00:20:11,760
what happened

493
00:20:11,760 --> 00:20:14,400
but what happened

494
00:20:14,559 --> 00:20:16,559
so it didn't broke so i was right with

495
00:20:16,559 --> 00:20:19,440
10 to 20 right

496
00:20:19,440 --> 00:20:21,360
yes thanks

497
00:20:21,360 --> 00:20:24,000
so basically what we got is

498
00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:28,400
running very damaged rope on relatively

499
00:20:28,400 --> 00:20:29,600
hard dish

500
00:20:29,600 --> 00:20:32,159
maybe to normal foil yeah real case

501
00:20:32,159 --> 00:20:35,200
scenario ripped the sheath of the rope

502
00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:37,120
in just two falls which is very

503
00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:38,799
dangerous but then it was good to see

504
00:20:38,799 --> 00:20:41,039
that the rope did not snapped

505
00:20:41,039 --> 00:20:43,840
and only the core strands kept holding

506
00:20:43,840 --> 00:20:44,880
for

507
00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:48,720
multiple more falls so

508
00:20:48,960 --> 00:20:51,200
but when he touched barely with the

509
00:20:51,200 --> 00:20:53,120
sharp knife the core strands he just

510
00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:55,520
barely touched it it snapped

511
00:20:55,520 --> 00:20:57,039
so if your

512
00:20:57,039 --> 00:20:58,720
shift gets away

513
00:20:58,720 --> 00:21:01,039
and then your rope runs across something

514
00:21:01,039 --> 00:21:03,200
sharp on the rock super dangerous

515
00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:04,240
yeah

516
00:21:04,240 --> 00:21:05,840
i think now we're coming to the second

517
00:21:05,840 --> 00:21:07,919
scenario you wanna you wanna show when

518
00:21:07,919 --> 00:21:10,400
it comes to sharp edge scenarios yeah

519
00:21:10,400 --> 00:21:13,760
like the ropes don't have this high

520
00:21:13,760 --> 00:21:16,159
safety margin

521
00:21:16,159 --> 00:21:18,720
i hope that you are subscribed because

522
00:21:18,720 --> 00:21:20,799
the next experiment that i'm gonna show

523
00:21:20,799 --> 00:21:23,280
in the next video is gonna blow your

524
00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:26,559
mind and probably change a little bit

525
00:21:26,559 --> 00:21:28,799
the way you care about your climbing

526
00:21:28,799 --> 00:21:30,720
equipment

527
00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:34,480
okay now i need you to pee

528
00:21:34,480 --> 00:21:37,799
come on