0:00:00.000,0:00:03.070 [Music] 0:00:05.070,0:00:08.800 [Music] 0:00:08.800,0:00:11.780 0:00:11.780,0:00:20.240 [Music] 0:00:20.240,0:00:21.840 whoa so 0:00:21.840,0:00:23.519 it's not the sound that you want to hear 0:00:23.519,0:00:25.060 when you're out climbing 0:00:25.060,0:00:29.119 is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 0:00:29.279,0:00:32.800 how fuzzy is too fuzzy 0:00:32.800,0:00:34.880 this is the rope that i used for about 0:00:34.880,0:00:37.680 two years of intense climbing 0:00:37.680,0:00:40.000 or at least this is the end of this rope 0:00:40.000,0:00:42.239 if i compare to the middle this is how 0:00:42.239,0:00:45.039 the middle of the same rope looks 0:00:45.039,0:00:47.200 and as you can see it's a huge 0:00:47.200,0:00:49.039 difference 0:00:49.039,0:00:51.760 so the question is should i worry about 0:00:51.760,0:00:54.079 this fuzziness or another question that 0:00:54.079,0:00:57.360 i see climbers disagree a lot on is if i 0:00:57.360,0:01:00.160 can squeeze my rope like this does it 0:01:00.160,0:01:02.800 mean that inside core strands are 0:01:02.800,0:01:04.500 damaged or no 0:01:04.500,0:01:07.777 so to avoid breaking my back on homemade 0:01:07.777,0:01:10.152 experiments 0:01:10.152,0:01:12.560 yeah as some of you noticed 0:01:12.560,0:01:14.240 it can be quite stressful 0:01:14.240,0:01:16.960 so not this time. This time i decided to 0:01:16.960,0:01:19.920 reach out to Mammut and ask if by any 0:01:19.920,0:01:22.479 chance i could come over and nerd with 0:01:22.479,0:01:23.740 their engineers 0:01:23.740,0:01:24.830 how dangerous is this? 0:01:24.830,0:01:26.740 (laughs) we will find out 0:01:26.740,0:01:28.970 so this is a product developer from 0:01:28.970,0:01:30.080 Mammut 0:01:30.080,0:01:32.560 and you said you're an expert in textiles 0:01:32.560,0:01:34.044 would you whip on this? 0:01:34.044,0:01:36.200 (uncomfortable noises) 0:01:37.200,0:01:39.200 can we destroy this rope? I would say the 0:01:39.200,0:01:41.920 core's joints won't fail if it's a normal 0:01:41.920,0:01:42.920 sport climbing fall 0:01:42.920,0:01:44.500 within the first fall? 0:01:44.500,0:01:46.079 no no no not the first fall. 0:01:46.079,0:01:47.569 Would you whip on this? 0:01:47.569,0:01:48.739 Oh yes definitely. 0:01:48.739,0:01:51.600 How many times? 0:01:51.600,0:01:54.000 So this rope is not the same rope that 0:01:54.000,0:01:56.640 we used in an experiment. That one was a 0:01:56.640,0:01:58.980 little bit worse than this 0:01:58.980,0:02:00.620 and it kind of died. 0:02:00.620,0:02:02.060 Can ropes die? 0:02:02.060,0:02:04.060 Anyway the goal was to find out what 0:02:04.060,0:02:06.719 happens if you take a huge fall 0:02:06.719,0:02:09.520 and this soft spot hits on your 0:02:09.520,0:02:10.560 quickdraw 0:02:10.560,0:02:13.360 exactly on the peak force and by the way 0:02:13.360,0:02:16.239 this video is not sponsored but in case 0:02:16.239,0:02:18.319 you don't know mammut is one of the 0:02:18.319,0:02:21.440 oldest companies making climbing ropes 0:02:21.440,0:02:23.760 so they have some serious knowledge 0:02:23.760,0:02:27.059 about that so I wanted to know everything. 0:02:27.059,0:02:28.720 Let's get nerdy! I have a 0:02:28.720,0:02:31.120 bunch of questions from me and my 0:02:31.120,0:02:31.850 followers 0:02:31.850,0:02:32.830 Sounds great! 0:02:32.830,0:02:34.299 Ah. You're probably gonna add 0:02:34.299,0:02:35.519 10 000 more questions 0:02:35.519,0:02:36.400 I'm sorry 0:02:36.400,0:02:38.480 and by the way the questions that you 0:02:38.480,0:02:39.840 guys sent 0:02:39.840,0:02:40.959 had some 0:02:40.959,0:02:43.879 serious sense of practicality 0:02:43.879,0:02:47.599 a cat pees on my rope how bad is that? 0:02:47.599,0:02:50.959 Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that? 0:02:50.959,0:02:53.200 If you have a dry rope 0:02:53.200,0:02:55.480 we test it with human pee 0:02:55.480,0:02:57.570 because i mean if you're on a multipitch 0:02:57.570,0:02:58.460 and you have to go 0:02:58.460,0:03:00.400 so you actually did the testing on this? 0:03:00.400,0:03:01.599 yes and 0:03:01.599,0:03:04.480 the answer is no it's not dangerous. 0:03:04.480,0:03:07.680 I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more 0:03:07.680,0:03:09.762 aggressive than a human pee? 0:03:09.762,0:03:13.180 hey let's go do some science 0:03:13.180,0:03:15.350 so this is where the rope testing magic 0:03:15.350,0:03:17.439 happens and this is where you get those 0:03:17.439,0:03:19.860 six seven eight or whatever falls on the 0:03:19.860,0:03:20.629 rope. 0:03:20.629,0:03:21.639 Exactly yeah. 0:03:21.639,0:03:22.359 Statistics. 0:03:22.359,0:03:24.650 The scenario is like really really hard 0:03:24.650,0:03:28.799 like we have a fall factor of around 1.7 0:03:28.799,0:03:30.879 we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram 0:03:30.879,0:03:33.120 steel mass which is like super static. 0:03:33.120,0:03:35.440 What are the forces on standard tests? 0:03:35.440,0:03:37.159 For a single rope it's 0:03:37.159,0:03:39.269 around like 8 to 9 KN on the edge... 0:03:39.269,0:03:40.294 For the first fall? 0:03:40.294,0:03:41.440 For the first fall. 0:03:41.440,0:03:43.329 And... we had the first problem. 0:03:43.329,0:03:45.519 so called standard rope test that every 0:03:45.519,0:03:48.959 manufacturer does is super extreme in 0:03:48.959,0:03:50.959 order to make it more like a real 0:03:50.959,0:03:53.760 climbing fall we needed to reduce it 0:03:53.760,0:03:57.360 below 4 kilonewtons and if you ask why 4 0:03:57.360,0:03:59.760 it means that you haven't seen these two 0:03:59.760,0:04:01.840 videos where we tried to create their 0:04:01.840,0:04:04.400 hardest real climbing falls and measure 0:04:04.400,0:04:06.080 the forces of them. 0:04:06.080,0:04:08.480 That's why I said like maybe we try like 0:04:08.480,0:04:10.959 with a new rope to get like a feeling 0:04:10.959,0:04:12.959 like what falling height we need to have 0:04:12.959,0:04:16.320 like around this less than 4k and then 0:04:16.320,0:04:19.680 we switch to your rope 0:04:20.560,0:04:23.280 don't look guess 2km 2k 0:04:23.280,0:04:26.160 i think it's less 0:04:26.720,0:04:29.440 wow two and a half as i said these guys 0:04:29.440,0:04:32.320 are really good it took only one fall 0:04:32.320,0:04:34.400 and we got the force of two and a half 0:04:34.400,0:04:37.199 kilonewtons on a brand new rope and that 0:04:37.199,0:04:39.360 was perfect because we were estimating 0:04:39.360,0:04:41.360 that once we swapped the ropes to the 0:04:41.360,0:04:44.080 old one the force will go slightly 0:04:44.080,0:04:46.880 higher because all the ropes don't 0:04:46.880,0:04:49.680 absorb the impact as well and it's going 0:04:49.680,0:04:52.000 to be a perfect representation of 0:04:52.000,0:04:53.199 a realistic 0:04:53.199,0:04:54.879 hard climbing fall. 0:04:54.879,0:04:56.400 so here's the tricky part 0:04:56.400,0:04:57.560 when you fall on rock 0:04:58.960,0:05:01.520 sometimes it happens but almost the same 0:05:01.520,0:05:03.199 spot hits the 0:05:03.199,0:05:06.080 top carabiner -yeah 0:05:06.080,0:05:08.960 and now the tricky part is how to place 0:05:08.960,0:05:12.080 that spot that it would be on a peak 0:05:12.080,0:05:14.470 force on the carabiner 0:05:14.470,0:05:17.759 Yeah 0:05:17.759,0:05:19.710 not easy or hard is easy. 0:05:19.710,0:05:22.689 as you can imagine once the fall happens 0:05:22.689,0:05:25.573 the rope stretches and that soft spot that 0:05:25.573,0:05:28.740 we are trying to hit will move 0:05:28.740,0:05:33.700 (Speaks German) 0:05:33.759,0:05:35.600 You thought it's gonna be easy 0:05:35.600,0:05:36.720 no no 0:05:36.720,0:05:39.280 i knew it will be exactly like this the 0:05:39.280,0:05:42.240 force to the rope will start increasing 0:05:42.240,0:05:44.000 increasing increasing increasing 0:05:44.000,0:05:46.000 increasing and at some point reaches the 0:05:46.000,0:05:48.240 maximum and then the force will start 0:05:48.240,0:05:49.759 dropping dropping dropping dropping 0:05:49.759,0:05:50.880 dropping 0:05:50.880,0:05:53.600 so the challenge is how to position the 0:05:53.600,0:05:54.960 soft spot 0:05:54.960,0:05:58.720 that it would move over the quick draw 0:05:58.720,0:06:01.529 as close to the peak of the force 0:06:01.529,0:06:02.960 with this 0:06:02.960,0:06:05.840 small fall scenario a new rope oh 0:06:05.840,0:06:08.479 it's about like what 400 0:06:08.479,0:06:12.240 300 400 500 right 0:06:12.240,0:06:16.479 a lot so new rope would hold about 400 0:06:16.479,0:06:19.919 falls on realistic fall yeah let's see 0:06:19.919,0:06:22.960 what happens if we put that damaged rope 0:06:22.960,0:06:23.919 and see 0:06:23.919,0:06:28.240 if it's hundreds or it's just a few. 0:06:39.919,0:06:41.919 do you think we will hit that spot or we 0:06:41.919,0:06:43.680 will be very far off? 0:06:43.680,0:06:46.400 I think we hit it yeah 0:06:46.400,0:06:49.039 where is it now like 30 centimeters 0:06:49.039,0:06:50.080 below 0:06:50.080,0:06:52.880 yeah it's around here now 0:06:52.880,0:06:55.039 and the rope is tense so probably this 0:06:55.039,0:06:56.560 will move up 0:06:56.560,0:06:57.680 and 0:06:57.680,0:07:01.960 how much we will see 0:07:02.940,0:07:07.440 [Music] 0:07:07.440,0:07:11.280 so we overshot the soft spot just by a 0:07:11.280,0:07:13.919 little bit so we will try to readjust 0:07:13.919,0:07:15.360 now and 0:07:15.360,0:07:17.290 see if we can hit it more perfectly 0:07:17.290,0:07:22.080 [Music] 0:07:22.080,0:07:24.639 so we managed to hit the spot 0:07:24.639,0:07:26.360 at 0:07:26.360,0:07:29.599 2.47 kilonewtons of force now we will 0:07:29.599,0:07:32.160 try to increase the fall a little bit to 0:07:32.160,0:07:34.720 get to really hard falls 0:07:34.720,0:07:36.319 20, 30 centimeters 0:07:36.319,0:07:38.960 let's see if we will still stay in 0:07:38.960,0:07:40.880 the damaged spot where it will just 0:07:40.880,0:07:44.199 stretch over 0:07:47.840,0:07:50.639 so we broke the sheath 0:07:50.639,0:07:53.520 we broke the sheath after two falls 0:07:53.520,0:07:56.720 and you said it's gonna last 0:07:56.720,0:07:58.400 no but that's what i said like the 0:07:58.400,0:08:00.000 sheath will break 0:08:00.000,0:08:01.120 by force 0:08:01.120,0:08:02.960 the force was 0:08:02.960,0:08:04.879 only 2 point one 0:08:04.879,0:08:06.960 only 2.1 kilonewtons and the sheath 0:08:06.960,0:08:09.960 broke 0:08:13.199,0:08:14.960 so 0:08:14.960,0:08:16.639 if your rope is 0:08:16.639,0:08:18.800 soft good luck 0:08:18.800,0:08:22.240 if the sheath is already damaged like we 0:08:22.240,0:08:24.240 saw it like now this will lead like to 0:08:24.240,0:08:26.879 cut sheath like immediately but the 0:08:26.879,0:08:28.560 the good thing is that the rope will not 0:08:28.560,0:08:30.639 snap 0:08:30.639,0:08:32.959 because the core strands like are 0:08:32.959,0:08:36.399 still intact so how many falls it would 0:08:36.399,0:08:39.839 take now to completely snap the rope 0:08:39.839,0:08:41.760 that's a good question i never tested 0:08:41.760,0:08:43.660 this 0:08:43.660,0:08:45.519 but we could do this i guess we can do 0:08:45.519,0:08:47.839 at least like two or three falls now 0:08:47.839,0:08:48.729 only on the core strands 0:08:48.729,0:08:49.620 yes yes 0:08:49.620,0:08:52.120 guess how many falls it's going to take 0:08:52.120,0:08:53.120 20 0:08:53.120,0:08:57.760 20 yeah wow so it took only two falls 0:08:57.760,0:09:00.110 to completely shred this sheath 0:09:00.110,0:09:02.260 but the good thing is like a rope is 0:09:02.260,0:09:04.959 constructed in a way that the sheath only 0:09:04.959,0:09:07.360 takes around like 10 to 20 percent 0:09:07.360,0:09:08.560 of the load 0:09:08.560,0:09:10.399 and the rest like the the 0:09:10.399,0:09:12.320 load bearing structure is basically only 0:09:12.320,0:09:13.279 the core 0:09:13.279,0:09:14.880 okay so 0:09:14.880,0:09:16.800 the question is if you take a rope and 0:09:16.800,0:09:18.720 you squeeze it so you feel that it's 0:09:18.720,0:09:20.880 soft completely inside does it mean 0:09:20.880,0:09:23.120 that the core is damaged or no? 0:09:23.120,0:09:25.249 no because a lot of people think that 0:09:25.249,0:09:26.354 it's damaged inside 0:09:26.354,0:09:27.550 the core is still intact 0:09:27.550,0:09:29.120 like if i would cut the rope at 0:09:29.120,0:09:31.279 that spot would i find some damage 0:09:31.279,0:09:33.500 inside of the core strands? 0:09:33.500,0:09:35.910 It's difficult to say because over time 0:09:35.910,0:09:37.950 the core strands also when we do fall 0:09:37.950,0:09:39.830 tests you can see that it gets a 0:09:39.830,0:09:41.360 little bit more hairy 0:09:41.360,0:09:44.010 if you would cut it open but it's just 0:09:44.010,0:09:45.839 a couple of filaments that might have 0:09:45.839,0:09:48.080 broken but it's not that an entire core 0:09:48.080,0:09:50.880 strand is broken but it's weakened for 0:09:50.880,0:09:52.080 sure 0:09:52.080,0:09:55.040 let's see if we can snap this room now 0:09:55.040,0:09:58.240 yeah so how many falls you said? 0:09:58.240,0:09:59.680 I don't know 0:09:59.680,0:10:01.180 10 to 20? 0:10:01.180,0:10:03.120 10 to 20. let's see 0:10:03.120,0:10:05.599 so this is one multifilament. 0:10:05.599,0:10:10.000 Multifilament made out of multiple filaments yes 0:10:10.000,0:10:11.320 how much 0:10:11.320,0:10:15.040 280. this is 280 inside of this so if i 0:10:15.040,0:10:17.440 would take one 0:10:17.440,0:10:21.360 what force that one thing would hold 0:10:21.360,0:10:24.720 well you would not test it like this 0:10:24.720,0:10:27.200 because a multifilament you look at it 0:10:27.200,0:10:30.079 as the entire thing but what i can tell 0:10:30.079,0:10:33.680 you that this core strand 0:10:33.680,0:10:37.279 would hold 180 kilos and we are not even 0:10:37.279,0:10:39.760 reaching very hard falls yet this is 0:10:39.760,0:10:42.079 nothing 0:10:47.200,0:10:49.120 so you said 20 how many strands are 0:10:49.120,0:10:50.390 inside 0:10:50.390,0:10:53.040 [Music] 0:10:53.040,0:10:54.560 two of eight 0:10:54.560,0:10:58.640 so you set 20 false and we have 10 to 20 0:10:58.640,0:11:02.480 20. apart from standard drop tests what 0:11:02.480,0:11:04.720 are other tests that are performed on 0:11:04.720,0:11:06.880 climbing ropes what we usually do is 0:11:06.880,0:11:09.360 also test the abrasion resistance of the 0:11:09.360,0:11:11.440 rope so there we have an in-house 0:11:11.440,0:11:13.279 developed testing method so it's a 0:11:13.279,0:11:16.480 machine which pulls a rope over a sharp 0:11:16.480,0:11:19.680 metal edge and we are counting how many 0:11:19.680,0:11:22.000 cycles it takes for actually damaging 0:11:22.000,0:11:23.760 the shaft 0:11:23.760,0:11:27.960 [Music] 0:11:29.360,0:11:32.399 we have like two parts now broken so we 0:11:32.399,0:11:36.240 have one part and two parts broken yeah 0:11:36.240,0:11:38.480 if we talk about abrasion resistant i 0:11:38.480,0:11:40.720 have some interesting stuff to show is 0:11:40.720,0:11:44.160 200 cycles so 200 times 0:11:44.160,0:11:46.640 back and forth here you see a classic 0:11:46.640,0:11:49.440 rope so it does not have any treatment 0:11:49.440,0:11:52.880 impregnation it's a 9.5 it's pretty worn 0:11:52.880,0:11:55.200 out it is worn out it's at the point 0:11:55.200,0:11:57.120 where i would consider maybe even 0:11:57.120,0:11:59.839 cutting this yes and you should then 0:11:59.839,0:12:01.760 next to it we have 0:12:01.760,0:12:04.720 also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment 0:12:04.720,0:12:08.160 what that's a huge difference yes that's 0:12:08.160,0:12:10.639 exactly the same rope but just dry treat 0:12:10.639,0:12:16.000 it yes that's a huge huge difference 0:12:16.079,0:12:17.760 it feels a little bit burnt like when 0:12:17.760,0:12:18.720 you 0:12:18.720,0:12:20.160 touch it 0:12:20.160,0:12:22.000 it definitely got hot 0:12:22.000,0:12:23.680 like on the edge 0:12:23.680,0:12:26.240 so your six lives got a bit damaged but 0:12:26.240,0:12:28.320 that's good to know and you can climb 0:12:28.320,0:12:30.320 you can climb you would climb on this i 0:12:30.320,0:12:31.440 mean the brits 0:12:31.440,0:12:33.839 was done by jean villanova like with a 0:12:33.839,0:12:35.680 sheet colored rope like from the 0:12:35.680,0:12:37.760 beginning on i think in the second pitch 0:12:37.760,0:12:39.839 of that pitch he had a stone fall and 0:12:39.839,0:12:41.680 his rope already got cut like the sheet 0:12:41.680,0:12:43.200 was completely damaged and he did the 0:12:43.200,0:12:45.600 whole fits reverse with this rope then 0:12:45.600,0:12:48.320 he like repaired a lot over it does the 0:12:48.320,0:12:52.160 percentage of sheaf versus core strands 0:12:52.160,0:12:54.079 it's not always the same in sport 0:12:54.079,0:12:56.480 climbing ropes yeah or like climbing 0:12:56.480,0:12:58.160 ropes in general it's not always the 0:12:58.160,0:12:59.200 same now 0:12:59.200,0:13:01.920 and what does it depend on well for us 0:13:01.920,0:13:03.920 it depends on what kind of rope we want 0:13:03.920,0:13:06.399 to make sport climbing 0:13:06.399,0:13:08.399 wait let me show you something show me 0:13:08.399,0:13:10.480 something okay so you have the interplay 0:13:10.480,0:13:13.120 of both the percentage of material that 0:13:13.120,0:13:16.079 is the chef but also 0:13:16.079,0:13:18.800 how the chef was constructed for example 0:13:18.800,0:13:22.800 here on this rope we have more chef 0:13:22.800,0:13:24.720 twines so 0:13:24.720,0:13:27.839 if you would count these 0:13:27.839,0:13:31.440 singular ones they are much more than on 0:13:31.440,0:13:33.440 this chef oh yeah that's almost double 0:13:33.440,0:13:34.639 no 0:13:34.639,0:13:37.360 no no it isn't but it's just a slight 0:13:37.360,0:13:39.600 difference but if you check out the 0:13:39.600,0:13:40.959 surface 0:13:40.959,0:13:44.800 you can see that here the little cubes 0:13:44.800,0:13:47.600 that they form are smaller 0:13:47.600,0:13:51.600 than on this one so here we have a super 0:13:51.600,0:13:54.399 fine surface of the of the chef so if 0:13:54.399,0:13:56.959 you for example would touch this one it 0:13:56.959,0:13:59.120 feels much rougher yeah 0:13:59.120,0:14:00.880 so this is also what makes it more 0:14:00.880,0:14:03.839 durable 0:14:10.160,0:14:12.240 so we are still very far from twenty but 0:14:12.240,0:14:14.839 what's the maybe i get some coffee 0:14:14.839,0:14:18.320 huh it was already 3.4 yeah it's 0:14:18.320,0:14:20.399 increasing and increasing so the dynamic 0:14:20.399,0:14:22.160 performance of the rope gets low and 0:14:22.160,0:14:24.720 lower and lower this one here is our 0:14:24.720,0:14:26.959 workhorse construction it does not have 0:14:26.959,0:14:29.440 any treatment but we're using the best 0:14:29.440,0:14:31.920 and the finest yarns that we have to 0:14:31.920,0:14:35.040 make this construction and it also i 0:14:35.040,0:14:37.680 would say you know it's as good as the 0:14:37.680,0:14:39.680 dry rope so why 0:14:39.680,0:14:41.920 not all ropes are made this way where we 0:14:41.920,0:14:43.600 have finer 0:14:43.600,0:14:46.320 construction because price matters yeah 0:14:46.320,0:14:48.720 now i would like to see not 200 cycles 0:14:48.720,0:14:53.040 but 1 000. yes they come here oh really 0:14:53.040,0:14:57.440 not the 2000 but the 500. i would climb 0:14:57.440,0:14:58.720 with 0:14:58.720,0:15:01.360 this one and with this one or if i have 0:15:01.360,0:15:04.560 a risky day i would choose this 0:15:04.560,0:15:06.399 do you have risky days 0:15:06.399,0:15:10.639 sometimes turns out size or diameter is 0:15:10.639,0:15:13.199 not all that matters when we talk about 0:15:13.199,0:15:16.000 durability construction and extra 0:15:16.000,0:15:18.880 treatments might have a bigger impact 0:15:18.880,0:15:21.040 it's a crazy difference now having in 0:15:21.040,0:15:22.880 mind that all of them will run through 0:15:22.880,0:15:25.040 the same process to the point where 0:15:25.040,0:15:28.240 super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked 0:15:28.240,0:15:31.360 completely fine after 500 of cycles of 0:15:31.360,0:15:33.600 dragging it across the sharp edge this 0:15:33.600,0:15:35.360 one looks quite good 0:15:35.360,0:15:37.279 like a little bit fuzzy but i would 0:15:37.279,0:15:40.120 definitely use it however much thicker 0:15:40.120,0:15:43.279 9.5 millimeters rope but old 0:15:43.279,0:15:46.000 construction and no treatments were 0:15:46.000,0:15:47.519 completely 0:15:47.519,0:15:48.240 done 0:15:48.240,0:15:51.839 my guess is five more falls and we 0:15:52.839,0:15:55.440 snapped think we have to increase 0:15:55.440,0:15:57.839 otherwise yeah let's increase everybody 0:15:57.839,0:16:00.000 wants harder falls but it's already 0:16:00.000,0:16:01.759 getting harder we went yeah two and a 0:16:01.759,0:16:03.839 half to three and a half yeah to 0:16:03.839,0:16:06.000 increase 0:16:06.000,0:16:08.079 you can't just dropping keep dropping 0:16:08.079,0:16:11.279 yeah keep dropping and we'll get coffee 0:16:11.279,0:16:15.519 what do you want coffee espresso 0:16:15.519,0:16:17.600 are you asking the viewer with milk are 0:16:17.600,0:16:20.480 you sending me yes 0:16:20.639,0:16:23.040 one interesting observation i got while 0:16:23.040,0:16:25.759 i was making this intro animation 0:16:25.759,0:16:27.839 which by the way took me multiple days 0:16:27.839,0:16:29.600 and multiple attempts 0:16:29.600,0:16:32.720 was that while the rope is new 0:16:32.720,0:16:35.360 the file glides over the rope very 0:16:35.360,0:16:37.920 smoothly and it's pretty hard to make 0:16:37.920,0:16:40.320 any damage to it but once the rope 0:16:40.320,0:16:43.600 starts becoming fuzzy it becomes easier 0:16:43.600,0:16:46.320 to make some extra damage so it felt 0:16:46.320,0:16:47.440 like the 0:16:47.440,0:16:49.839 fuzziness or the damage to the rope is 0:16:49.839,0:16:52.320 kind of exponential the worse it gets 0:16:52.320,0:16:55.440 the easier it is to make it even worse 0:16:55.440,0:16:57.440 oh yeah let's do again all these six 0:16:57.440,0:16:59.279 tracks left 0:16:59.279,0:17:00.880 whoa so 0:17:00.880,0:17:01.920 okay 0:17:01.920,0:17:04.079 so you can come back already with your 0:17:04.079,0:17:07.120 coffee so the force went lower but one 0:17:07.120,0:17:08.959 strand snapped 0:17:08.959,0:17:11.520 too snapped but the sound of the strand 0:17:11.520,0:17:13.439 snapping was good 0:17:13.439,0:17:16.160 is it bad if i scream behind the camera 0:17:16.160,0:17:17.760 it's not the sound that you want to hear 0:17:17.760,0:17:19.679 when you're out climbing 0:17:19.679,0:17:23.199 okay the fun part how fuzzy is too fuzzy 0:17:23.199,0:17:26.319 or how soft the rope is too soft when 0:17:26.319,0:17:29.039 should people actually cut it i mean you 0:17:29.039,0:17:31.039 pull the rope through your hands how to 0:17:31.039,0:17:33.280 to check the ropes this you should do on 0:17:33.280,0:17:35.120 a regular basis and what are you doing 0:17:35.120,0:17:37.039 when you're pulling well on the one hand 0:17:37.039,0:17:40.080 i feel the rope so i feel the how the 0:17:40.080,0:17:43.360 rope behaves if it's super soft if it's 0:17:43.360,0:17:45.280 thicker and at the same time you know 0:17:45.280,0:17:47.840 you you pull it over your finger and you 0:17:47.840,0:17:50.000 look at it so you do like a visual 0:17:50.000,0:17:52.640 inspection 0:17:56.799,0:17:59.120 beautiful rope wood whip 0:17:59.120,0:18:01.919 would you whip you would whip you would 0:18:01.919,0:18:04.880 see oh the force went lower again 0:18:04.880,0:18:06.720 so basically the less core strands we 0:18:06.720,0:18:08.480 have the better the rope is the softer 0:18:08.480,0:18:10.880 the catch 0:18:11.440,0:18:13.679 i wouldn't see it that way but 0:18:13.679,0:18:15.679 if you want a soft catch just break the 0:18:15.679,0:18:16.559 rope 0:18:16.559,0:18:18.880 so let's say i'm running my rope through 0:18:18.880,0:18:21.520 my hand and i find that spot which is 0:18:21.520,0:18:24.480 softer so how do i know if it's already 0:18:24.480,0:18:25.600 bad 0:18:25.600,0:18:28.400 or first consider the whole rope i mean 0:18:28.400,0:18:30.320 if you have a really soft rope because 0:18:30.320,0:18:31.919 they're hard i mean some ropes are 0:18:31.919,0:18:34.080 already soft when you you buy them in 0:18:34.080,0:18:36.240 the store huh i would say the hour ropes 0:18:36.240,0:18:38.880 are a little bit stiffer in general and 0:18:38.880,0:18:40.000 we do that to make them more 0:18:40.000,0:18:42.320 long-lasting but if your whole rope is 0:18:42.320,0:18:44.080 very soft and you have a spot which is 0:18:44.080,0:18:46.559 just a little bit softer 0:18:46.559,0:18:48.880 i would say i would not like say oh 0:18:48.880,0:18:50.960 that's super dangerous huh but if you 0:18:50.960,0:18:51.679 have 0:18:51.679,0:18:53.600 the rope is generally really stiff and 0:18:53.600,0:18:56.000 then you have one spot with this ultra 0:18:56.000,0:18:57.440 soft then you know 0:18:57.440,0:19:00.320 something is not right there and exactly 0:19:00.320,0:19:02.080 what's not right there 0:19:02.080,0:19:04.880 hey there is so many things that it 0:19:04.880,0:19:07.280 could be so as an example if i would be 0:19:07.280,0:19:09.760 just looking into this piece of the rope 0:19:09.760,0:19:11.840 it would be pretty difficult to say how 0:19:11.840,0:19:14.640 soft it needs to be and if i should cut 0:19:14.640,0:19:15.360 it 0:19:15.360,0:19:16.400 but 0:19:16.400,0:19:18.559 if i compare it to the middle of the 0:19:18.559,0:19:21.280 same rope i can clearly see a big 0:19:21.280,0:19:24.240 difference so this clearly is far from 0:19:24.240,0:19:26.400 what it used to be and it's better to 0:19:26.400,0:19:28.880 cut this end and if you want some tips 0:19:28.880,0:19:33.039 on cutting ropes check out this video 0:19:33.980,0:19:35.919 [Music] 0:19:35.919,0:19:38.000 i don't think we can do another one 0:19:38.000,0:19:39.919 unfortunately the rope kept stretching 0:19:39.919,0:19:42.320 and stretching and stretching until we 0:19:42.320,0:19:44.559 almost reached the bottom of the drop 0:19:44.559,0:19:46.559 tower and we couldn't do any more 0:19:46.559,0:19:47.679 testing 0:19:47.679,0:19:50.799 however we decided to show what happens 0:19:50.799,0:19:53.440 if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging 0:19:53.440,0:19:56.320 on only core strands and you touch the 0:19:56.320,0:19:58.640 core strands with the knife 0:19:58.640,0:20:00.960 test 0:20:04.240,0:20:07.440 it just barely dude 0:20:07.440,0:20:10.480 you went too long 0:20:10.480,0:20:11.760 what happened 0:20:11.760,0:20:14.400 but what happened 0:20:14.559,0:20:16.559 so it didn't broke so i was right with 0:20:16.559,0:20:19.440 10 to 20 right 0:20:19.440,0:20:21.360 yes thanks 0:20:21.360,0:20:24.000 so basically what we got is 0:20:24.000,0:20:28.400 running very damaged rope on relatively 0:20:28.400,0:20:29.600 hard dish 0:20:29.600,0:20:32.159 maybe to normal foil yeah real case 0:20:32.159,0:20:35.200 scenario ripped the sheath of the rope 0:20:35.200,0:20:37.120 in just two falls which is very 0:20:37.120,0:20:38.799 dangerous but then it was good to see 0:20:38.799,0:20:41.039 that the rope did not snapped 0:20:41.039,0:20:43.840 and only the core strands kept holding 0:20:43.840,0:20:44.880 for 0:20:44.880,0:20:48.720 multiple more falls so 0:20:48.960,0:20:51.200 but when he touched barely with the 0:20:51.200,0:20:53.120 sharp knife the core strands he just 0:20:53.120,0:20:55.520 barely touched it it snapped 0:20:55.520,0:20:57.039 so if your 0:20:57.039,0:20:58.720 shift gets away 0:20:58.720,0:21:01.039 and then your rope runs across something 0:21:01.039,0:21:03.200 sharp on the rock super dangerous 0:21:03.200,0:21:04.240 yeah 0:21:04.240,0:21:05.840 i think now we're coming to the second 0:21:05.840,0:21:07.919 scenario you wanna you wanna show when 0:21:07.919,0:21:10.400 it comes to sharp edge scenarios yeah 0:21:10.400,0:21:13.760 like the ropes don't have this high 0:21:13.760,0:21:16.159 safety margin 0:21:16.159,0:21:18.720 i hope that you are subscribed because 0:21:18.720,0:21:20.799 the next experiment that i'm gonna show 0:21:20.799,0:21:23.280 in the next video is gonna blow your 0:21:23.280,0:21:26.559 mind and probably change a little bit 0:21:26.559,0:21:28.799 the way you care about your climbing 0:21:28.799,0:21:30.720 equipment 0:21:30.720,0:21:34.480 okay now i need you to pee 0:21:34.480,0:21:37.799 come on