WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:03.070 [Music] 00:00:20.240 --> 00:00:21.840 Whoah! 00:00:21.840 --> 00:00:23.519 It's not a sound that you want to hear 00:00:23.519 --> 00:00:25.060 when you're out climbing. 00:00:25.060 --> 00:00:27.369 Is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 00:00:29.279 --> 00:00:32.800 How fuzzy is too fuzzy? 00:00:32.800 --> 00:00:34.880 This is the rope that I used for about 00:00:34.880 --> 00:00:37.680 two years of intense climbing... 00:00:37.680 --> 00:00:40.000 or at least this is the end of this rope. 00:00:40.000 --> 00:00:42.239 If I compare to the middle, this is how 00:00:42.239 --> 00:00:45.039 the middle of the same rope looks. 00:00:45.039 --> 00:00:47.200 And as you can see it's a huge 00:00:47.200 --> 00:00:49.039 difference. 00:00:49.039 --> 00:00:51.760 So the question is, should I worry about 00:00:51.760 --> 00:00:54.079 this fuzziness? Or another question that 00:00:54.079 --> 00:00:57.360 I see climbers disagree a lot on is: If i 00:00:57.360 --> 00:01:00.160 can squeeze my rope like this, does it 00:01:00.160 --> 00:01:02.800 mean that inside, core strands are 00:01:02.800 --> 00:01:04.500 damaged or no? 00:01:04.500 --> 00:01:07.777 So, to avoid breaking my back on homemade 00:01:07.777 --> 00:01:09.192 experiments.... 00:01:10.232 --> 00:01:12.560 yeah as some of you noticed 00:01:12.560 --> 00:01:14.240 it can be quite stressful 00:01:14.240 --> 00:01:16.960 so not this time. This time I decided to 00:01:16.960 --> 00:01:19.920 reach out to Mammut and ask if by any 00:01:19.920 --> 00:01:22.479 chance I could come over and nerd with 00:01:22.479 --> 00:01:23.750 their engineers. 00:01:23.750 --> 00:01:24.830 How dangerous is this? 00:01:24.830 --> 00:01:26.740 (laughs) We will find out! 00:01:26.740 --> 00:01:28.970 so this is a product developer from 00:01:28.970 --> 00:01:30.080 Mammut 00:01:30.080 --> 00:01:32.560 and you said you're an expert in textiles. 00:01:32.560 --> 00:01:34.044 Would you whip on this? 00:01:34.044 --> 00:01:36.200 (uncomfortable noises) 00:01:37.200 --> 00:01:39.200 Can we destroy this rope? I would say the 00:01:39.200 --> 00:01:41.920 core strands won't fail if it's a normal 00:01:41.920 --> 00:01:42.920 sport climbing fall. 00:01:42.920 --> 00:01:44.500 Within the first fall? 00:01:44.500 --> 00:01:46.079 No no no not the first fall. 00:01:46.079 --> 00:01:47.569 Would you whip on this? 00:01:47.569 --> 00:01:48.739 Oh yes definitely. 00:01:48.739 --> 00:01:49.963 How many times? 00:01:51.783 --> 00:01:54.000 So this rope is not the same rope that 00:01:54.000 --> 00:01:56.640 we used in an experiment. That one was a 00:01:56.640 --> 00:01:58.980 little bit worse than this 00:01:58.980 --> 00:02:00.820 and it kind of died. 00:02:00.820 --> 00:02:01.960 Can ropes die? 00:02:01.960 --> 00:02:04.060 Anyway the goal was to find out what 00:02:04.060 --> 00:02:06.719 happens if you take a huge fall 00:02:06.719 --> 00:02:09.520 and this soft spot hits on your 00:02:09.520 --> 00:02:10.560 quickdraw 00:02:10.560 --> 00:02:13.360 exactly on the peak force. And by the way 00:02:13.360 --> 00:02:16.239 this video is not sponsored, but in case 00:02:16.239 --> 00:02:18.319 you don't know, Mammut is one of the 00:02:18.319 --> 00:02:21.440 oldest companies making climbing ropes 00:02:21.440 --> 00:02:23.760 so they have some serious knowledge 00:02:23.760 --> 00:02:27.059 about that so I wanted to know everything. 00:02:27.059 --> 00:02:28.720 Let's get nerdy! I have a 00:02:28.720 --> 00:02:31.120 bunch of questions from me and my 00:02:31.120 --> 00:02:31.850 followers. 00:02:31.850 --> 00:02:32.830 Sounds great! 00:02:32.830 --> 00:02:34.299 Ah. You're probably gonna add 00:02:34.299 --> 00:02:35.519 10 000 more questions. 00:02:35.519 --> 00:02:36.400 I'm sorry. 00:02:36.400 --> 00:02:38.480 And by the way the questions that you 00:02:38.480 --> 00:02:39.840 guys sent 00:02:39.840 --> 00:02:40.959 had some 00:02:40.959 --> 00:02:43.879 serious sense of practicality. 00:02:43.879 --> 00:02:47.599 A cat pees on my rope how bad is that? 00:02:47.599 --> 00:02:50.959 Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that? 00:02:50.959 --> 00:02:53.200 If you have a dry rope 00:02:53.200 --> 00:02:55.480 we test it with human pee 00:02:55.480 --> 00:02:58.460 because I mean if you're on a multipitch and you have to go... you know... 00:02:58.460 --> 00:03:00.400 So you actually did the testing on this? 00:03:00.400 --> 00:03:01.599 Yes and 00:03:01.599 --> 00:03:04.480 the answer is no it's not dangerous. 00:03:04.480 --> 00:03:07.680 I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more 00:03:07.680 --> 00:03:09.372 aggressive than a human pee? 00:03:09.372 --> 00:03:13.260 Hey let's go do some science! 00:03:13.260 --> 00:03:15.350 So this is where the rope testing magic 00:03:15.350 --> 00:03:17.439 happens and this is where you get those 00:03:17.439 --> 00:03:20.459 six seven eight or whatever falls on the rope. 00:03:20.459 --> 00:03:21.639 Exactly yeah. 00:03:21.639 --> 00:03:22.359 Statistics. 00:03:22.359 --> 00:03:24.650 The scenario is like really really hard 00:03:24.650 --> 00:03:28.799 like we have a fall factor of around 1.7 00:03:28.799 --> 00:03:30.879 we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram 00:03:30.879 --> 00:03:33.120 steel mass which is like super static. 00:03:33.120 --> 00:03:35.440 What are the forces on standard tests? 00:03:35.440 --> 00:03:37.159 For a single rope it's 00:03:37.159 --> 00:03:39.269 around like 8 to 9 kN. 00:03:39.269 --> 00:03:40.294 For the first fall? 00:03:40.294 --> 00:03:41.440 For the first fall. 00:03:41.440 --> 00:03:43.329 And... we had the first problem. 00:03:43.329 --> 00:03:45.519 so called standard rope test that every 00:03:45.519 --> 00:03:48.959 manufacturer does is super extreme. In 00:03:48.959 --> 00:03:51.229 order to make it more like a real 00:03:51.229 --> 00:03:53.950 climbing fall, we needed to reduce it 00:03:53.950 --> 00:03:57.360 below 4 kilonewtons. And if you ask why four, 00:03:57.360 --> 00:03:59.760 it means that you haven't seen these two 00:03:59.760 --> 00:04:01.840 videos where we tried to create their 00:04:01.840 --> 00:04:04.400 hardest real climbing falls and measure 00:04:04.400 --> 00:04:06.080 the forces of them. 00:04:06.080 --> 00:04:08.480 That's why I said like maybe we try like 00:04:08.480 --> 00:04:10.959 with a new rope to get like a feeling 00:04:10.959 --> 00:04:12.959 like what falling height we need to have 00:04:12.959 --> 00:04:16.320 like around this less than 4kN and then 00:04:16.320 --> 00:04:17.960 we switch to your rope. 00:04:20.560 --> 00:04:22.480 -Don't look, guess. -2 kN. 00:04:22.480 --> 00:04:24.770 2 K? I think it's less. 00:04:26.720 --> 00:04:28.380 Wow two and a half. 00:04:28.380 --> 00:04:29.440 As I said these guys 00:04:29.440 --> 00:04:32.320 are really good. It took only one fall, 00:04:32.320 --> 00:04:34.400 and we got the force of two and a half 00:04:34.400 --> 00:04:37.199 kilonewtons on a brand new rope. And that 00:04:37.199 --> 00:04:39.360 was perfect because we were estimating 00:04:39.360 --> 00:04:41.360 that once we swapped the ropes to the 00:04:41.360 --> 00:04:44.080 old one the force will go slightly 00:04:44.080 --> 00:04:46.880 higher because older ropes don't 00:04:46.880 --> 00:04:49.680 absorb the impact as well and it's going 00:04:49.680 --> 00:04:52.000 to be a perfect representation of 00:04:52.000 --> 00:04:54.691 a realistic hard climbing fall. 00:04:54.879 --> 00:04:56.400 So here's the tricky part: 00:04:56.400 --> 00:04:57.560 when you fall on a rock, 00:04:58.960 --> 00:05:01.520 sometimes it happens but almost the same 00:05:01.520 --> 00:05:03.199 spot hits the 00:05:03.199 --> 00:05:06.080 -top carabiner. -Yeah 00:05:06.080 --> 00:05:08.960 And now the tricky part is how to place 00:05:08.960 --> 00:05:12.080 that spot that it would be on a peak 00:05:12.080 --> 00:05:14.120 force on the carabiner 00:05:14.120 --> 00:05:17.759 Yeah. 00:05:17.759 --> 00:05:19.710 Not easy. Or hard is easy. 00:05:19.710 --> 00:05:22.689 As you can imagine, once the fall happens 00:05:22.689 --> 00:05:25.573 the rope stretches and that soft spot that 00:05:25.573 --> 00:05:29.000 we are trying to hit will move. 00:05:29.279 --> 00:05:31.719 (indistinct) 00:05:33.759 --> 00:05:35.600 You thought it's gonna be easy? 00:05:35.600 --> 00:05:36.720 No no, 00:05:36.720 --> 00:05:39.280 I knew it will be exactly like this. 00:05:39.280 --> 00:05:42.240 The force to the rope will start increasing 00:05:42.240 --> 00:05:44.000 increasing increasing increasing 00:05:44.000 --> 00:05:46.000 increasing and at some point reaches the 00:05:46.000 --> 00:05:48.240 maximum, and then the force will start 00:05:48.240 --> 00:05:49.759 dropping dropping dropping dropping 00:05:49.759 --> 00:05:50.880 dropping. 00:05:50.880 --> 00:05:53.600 So the challenge is, how to position the 00:05:53.600 --> 00:05:54.960 soft spot 00:05:54.960 --> 00:05:58.720 that it would move over the quickdraw 00:05:58.720 --> 00:06:01.529 as close to the peak of the force. 00:06:01.529 --> 00:06:02.960 With this 00:06:02.960 --> 00:06:05.840 small fall scenario a new rope 00:06:05.840 --> 00:06:08.479 it's about like what? 400? 00:06:08.479 --> 00:06:13.460 -300 400 500 . -Right. A lot 00:06:13.460 --> 00:06:17.089 -So new rope would hold about 400 falls on... 00:06:17.089 --> 00:06:19.589 -Small falls -Like, realistic falls. 00:06:19.589 --> 00:06:21.860 Let's see what happens if we put that 00:06:21.860 --> 00:06:23.919 damaged rope and see 00:06:23.919 --> 00:06:27.220 if it's hundreds or it's just a few. 00:06:39.919 --> 00:06:41.919 Do you think we will hit that spot or we 00:06:41.919 --> 00:06:43.680 will be very far off? 00:06:43.680 --> 00:06:46.400 I think we hit it yeah 00:06:46.400 --> 00:06:49.039 where is it now? Like 30 centimeters 00:06:49.039 --> 00:06:50.080 below. 00:06:50.080 --> 00:06:52.880 Yeah it's around here now 00:06:52.880 --> 00:06:55.039 and the rope is tense so probably this 00:06:55.039 --> 00:06:56.560 will move up, 00:06:57.680 --> 00:06:59.800 how much we will see. 00:07:07.440 --> 00:07:11.280 So we overshot the soft spot just by a 00:07:11.280 --> 00:07:13.919 little bit, so we will try to readjust 00:07:13.919 --> 00:07:15.360 now and 00:07:15.360 --> 00:07:17.290 see if we can hit it more perfectly. 00:07:22.080 --> 00:07:25.260 So we managed to hit the spot at 00:07:25.260 --> 00:07:29.599 2.47 kilonewtons of force, and now we will 00:07:29.599 --> 00:07:32.160 try to increase the fall a little bit to 00:07:32.160 --> 00:07:34.220 get to really hard falls. 00:07:34.220 --> 00:07:36.319 -20, 30 centimeters? -Yeah let's do that. 00:07:36.319 --> 00:07:38.960 Let's see if we will still stay in 00:07:38.960 --> 00:07:40.880 the damaged spot where it will just 00:07:40.880 --> 00:07:42.149 stretch over. 00:07:47.840 --> 00:07:49.859 So we broke the sheath 00:07:50.639 --> 00:07:53.520 we broke the sheath after two falls 00:07:53.520 --> 00:07:56.720 and you said it's gonna last! 00:07:56.720 --> 00:07:58.400 No but that's what I said like the 00:07:58.400 --> 00:07:59.920 sheath will break... 00:07:59.920 --> 00:08:01.120 What's was the force? 00:08:01.120 --> 00:08:02.960 The force was 00:08:02.960 --> 00:08:04.879 only 2.1. 00:08:04.879 --> 00:08:06.960 Only 2.1 kilonewtons and the sheath 00:08:06.960 --> 00:08:08.140 broke! 00:08:13.369 --> 00:08:15.140 So... 00:08:15.140 --> 00:08:16.789 if your rope is 00:08:16.789 --> 00:08:18.800 soft, good luck. 00:08:18.800 --> 00:08:22.240 If the sheath is already damaged like we 00:08:22.240 --> 00:08:24.240 saw it like now this will lead like to 00:08:24.240 --> 00:08:26.879 cut sheath like immediately. But the 00:08:26.879 --> 00:08:28.560 the good thing is that the rope will not 00:08:28.560 --> 00:08:30.639 snap 00:08:30.639 --> 00:08:32.959 because the core strands like are 00:08:32.959 --> 00:08:36.399 -still intact. -So how many falls it would 00:08:36.399 --> 00:08:39.839 take now to completely snap the rope? 00:08:39.839 --> 00:08:41.760 That's a good question, I never tested 00:08:41.760 --> 00:08:43.660 this. 00:08:43.660 --> 00:08:45.519 But we could do this I guess we can do 00:08:45.519 --> 00:08:47.839 at least like two or three falls now 00:08:47.839 --> 00:08:48.729 only on the core strands. 00:08:48.729 --> 00:08:49.620 Yes yes. 00:08:49.620 --> 00:08:52.120 Guess how many falls it's going to take. 00:08:53.280 --> 00:08:54.230 20. 00:08:54.230 --> 00:08:55.440 -20? -Yeah. 00:08:55.440 --> 00:09:00.110 Wow so it took only two falls to completely shred this sheath. 00:09:00.110 --> 00:09:02.260 But the good thing is like a rope is 00:09:02.260 --> 00:09:04.959 constructed in a way that the sheath only 00:09:04.959 --> 00:09:07.360 takes around like 10 to 20 percent 00:09:07.360 --> 00:09:08.560 of the load, 00:09:08.560 --> 00:09:10.399 and the rest like the 00:09:10.399 --> 00:09:12.320 load bearing structure is basically only 00:09:12.320 --> 00:09:13.279 the core. 00:09:13.279 --> 00:09:14.880 Okay so 00:09:14.880 --> 00:09:16.800 The question is if you take a rope and 00:09:16.800 --> 00:09:18.720 you squeeze it so you feel that it's 00:09:18.720 --> 00:09:20.880 soft completely inside, does it mean 00:09:20.880 --> 00:09:23.120 that the core is damaged or no? 00:09:23.120 --> 00:09:25.249 No because a lot of people think that 00:09:25.249 --> 00:09:26.354 it's damaged inside. 00:09:26.354 --> 00:09:27.550 The core is still intact. 00:09:27.550 --> 00:09:29.120 Like if I were to cut the rope at 00:09:29.120 --> 00:09:31.279 that spot would i find some damage 00:09:31.279 --> 00:09:33.463 inside of the core strands? 00:09:33.463 --> 00:09:36.000 It's difficult to say because over time, 00:09:36.000 --> 00:09:37.870 the core strands, also when we do fall 00:09:37.870 --> 00:09:39.830 tests, you can see that it gets a 00:09:39.830 --> 00:09:41.670 little bit more hairy 00:09:41.670 --> 00:09:44.010 if you would cut it open, but it's just 00:09:44.010 --> 00:09:45.839 a couple of filaments that might have 00:09:45.839 --> 00:09:48.080 broken, but it's not that an entire core 00:09:48.080 --> 00:09:50.880 strand is broken, but it's weakened for 00:09:50.880 --> 00:09:52.080 sure. 00:09:52.080 --> 00:09:55.040 -Let's see if we can snap this rope now. -Yeah 00:09:55.040 --> 00:09:58.390 So how many falls you said? 00:09:58.390 --> 00:09:59.680 I don't know. 00:09:59.680 --> 00:10:01.180 10 to 20? 00:10:01.180 --> 00:10:03.120 10 to 20. let's see. 00:10:03.120 --> 00:10:05.599 So this is one multifilament. 00:10:05.599 --> 00:10:10.000 -Multifilament made out of multiple filaments. -Yes. 00:10:10.000 --> 00:10:11.320 How much? 00:10:11.320 --> 00:10:15.040 -280. -This is 280 inside of this so if I 00:10:15.040 --> 00:10:17.440 would take one, 00:10:17.440 --> 00:10:21.360 what force that one thing would hold? 00:10:21.360 --> 00:10:24.720 Well you would not test it like this 00:10:24.720 --> 00:10:27.200 because a multifilament you look at it 00:10:27.200 --> 00:10:30.079 as the entire thing but what i can tell 00:10:30.079 --> 00:10:36.530 you, that this core strand would hold 180 kilos 00:10:36.530 --> 00:10:37.739 And we are not even reaching 00:10:37.739 --> 00:10:40.520 -very hard falls yet. -No, this is nothing. 00:10:43.570 --> 00:10:47.200 -So you see? -One strand snapped. 00:10:47.200 --> 00:10:49.120 So you said 20 how many strands are 00:10:49.120 --> 00:10:50.390 inside? 00:10:53.040 --> 00:10:54.560 Two of eight! 00:10:54.560 --> 00:10:57.110 So you said 20 falls? 00:10:57.110 --> 00:10:59.050 10 to 20! 00:10:59.050 --> 00:11:02.480 Apart from standard drop tests, what 00:11:02.480 --> 00:11:04.720 are other tests that are performed on 00:11:04.720 --> 00:11:06.880 -climbing ropes? - What we usually do is 00:11:06.880 --> 00:11:09.360 also test the abrasion resistance of the 00:11:09.360 --> 00:11:11.440 rope so there we have an in-house 00:11:11.440 --> 00:11:13.279 developed testing method. So it's a 00:11:13.279 --> 00:11:16.480 machine which pulls a rope over a sharp 00:11:16.480 --> 00:11:19.680 metal edge and we are counting how many 00:11:19.680 --> 00:11:22.000 cycles it takes for actually damaging 00:11:22.000 --> 00:11:23.760 the sheath. 00:11:29.360 --> 00:11:32.399 We have like two parts now broken. 00:11:32.399 --> 00:11:36.240 So we have one part and two parts broken! 00:11:36.240 --> 00:11:38.480 Yeah if we talk about abrasion resistant I 00:11:38.480 --> 00:11:40.720 have some interesting stuff to show you. 00:11:40.720 --> 00:11:44.160 200 cycles so 200 times 00:11:44.160 --> 00:11:46.640 back and forth. Here you see a classic 00:11:46.640 --> 00:11:49.440 rope so it does not have any treatment 00:11:49.440 --> 00:11:52.880 impregnation, it's a 9.5. It's pretty 00:11:52.880 --> 00:11:55.200 -worn out. -It is worn out! It's at the point 00:11:55.200 --> 00:11:57.120 where i would consider maybe even 00:11:57.120 --> 00:11:59.839 -cutting this. -Yes, and you should. 00:11:59.839 --> 00:12:01.760 Then next to it, we have 00:12:01.760 --> 00:12:04.720 also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment. 00:12:04.720 --> 00:12:08.160 -What? That's a huge difference! -Yes. 00:12:08.160 --> 00:12:10.639 That's exactly the same rope but just 00:12:10.639 --> 00:12:14.200 -dry treated? -Yes. that's a huge huge difference. 00:12:16.079 --> 00:12:17.760 It feels a little bit burnt like 00:12:17.760 --> 00:12:20.150 when you touch it, 00:12:20.160 --> 00:12:22.000 it definitely got hot, 00:12:22.000 --> 00:12:23.680 like on the edge. 00:12:23.680 --> 00:12:26.240 So your six lives got a bit damaged. 00:12:26.240 --> 00:12:28.320 But that's good to know that you can climb. 00:12:28.320 --> 00:12:30.320 You can climb? You would climb on this?! 00:12:30.320 --> 00:12:31.440 I mean the Fitz Traverse 00:12:31.440 --> 00:12:33.839 was done by Sean Villanueva like with a 00:12:33.839 --> 00:12:35.680 sheath-cut rope, like from the 00:12:35.680 --> 00:12:37.760 beginning. On I think the second pitch or 00:12:37.760 --> 00:12:39.839 the third pitch he had a stone fall, and 00:12:39.839 --> 00:12:41.680 his rope already got cut. Like the sheath 00:12:41.680 --> 00:12:43.200 was completely damaged, and he did the 00:12:43.200 --> 00:12:45.600 whole Fitz Traverse with this rope then. 00:12:45.600 --> 00:12:48.320 He like rappelled a lot over it. 00:12:48.320 --> 00:12:52.160 Does the percentage of sheath versus core strands... 00:12:52.160 --> 00:12:54.869 -It's not always the same. -In sport climbing ropes? 00:12:54.899 --> 00:12:56.480 Yeah or like climbing 00:12:56.480 --> 00:12:58.160 -ropes in general. -It's not always the 00:12:58.160 --> 00:12:59.200 -same now? -No. 00:12:59.200 --> 00:13:01.920 -And what does it depend on? -Well for us 00:13:01.920 --> 00:13:03.920 it depends on what kind of rope we want 00:13:03.920 --> 00:13:06.399 -to make. -Sport Climbing. 00:13:06.399 --> 00:13:08.179 Wait let me show you something. 00:13:08.179 --> 00:13:10.480 -Show me something. -Okay so you have the interplay 00:13:10.480 --> 00:13:13.120 of both the percentage of material that 00:13:13.120 --> 00:13:16.079 is the sheath but also 00:13:16.079 --> 00:13:18.800 how the sheath was constructed. For example 00:13:18.800 --> 00:13:22.800 here on this rope we have more sheath 00:13:22.800 --> 00:13:24.720 twines so 00:13:24.720 --> 00:13:27.839 if you would count these 00:13:27.839 --> 00:13:31.440 singular ones, they are much more than on 00:13:31.440 --> 00:13:34.090 -this sheath. -Oh yeah that's almost double, no? 00:13:34.639 --> 00:13:37.360 No that it isn't but it's just a slight 00:13:37.360 --> 00:13:39.600 difference. But if you check out the 00:13:39.600 --> 00:13:40.959 surface 00:13:40.959 --> 00:13:44.800 you can see that here the little cubes 00:13:44.800 --> 00:13:47.600 that they form are smaller 00:13:47.600 --> 00:13:51.600 than on this one. So here we have a super 00:13:51.600 --> 00:13:54.399 fine surface of the of the sheath so if 00:13:54.399 --> 00:13:56.959 you for example would touch this one it 00:13:56.959 --> 00:13:59.120 -feels much rougher. -Yeah. 00:13:59.120 --> 00:14:00.880 so this is also what makes it more 00:14:00.880 --> 00:14:02.079 durable. 00:14:03.819 --> 00:14:06.129 Now one more and it snaps. 00:14:06.254 --> 00:14:08.644 -Oh shit! -No kidding! 00:14:10.160 --> 00:14:12.240 So we are still very far from twenty but 00:14:12.240 --> 00:14:14.740 -what's the force? -Maybe I get some coffee huh? No? 00:14:14.740 --> 00:14:15.764 (Camerawoman) Yes! 00:14:15.764 --> 00:14:17.808 -It was already 3.4. 00:14:17.808 --> 00:14:20.399 It's increasing and increasing so the dynamic 00:14:20.399 --> 00:14:22.160 performance of the rope gets lower and 00:14:22.160 --> 00:14:23.230 lower and lower. 00:14:23.230 --> 00:14:26.959 This one here is our workhorse construction. It does not have 00:14:26.959 --> 00:14:29.440 any treatment but we're using the best 00:14:29.440 --> 00:14:31.920 and the finest yarns that we have to 00:14:31.920 --> 00:14:35.040 make this construction. And it also.. I 00:14:35.040 --> 00:14:37.680 would say you know it's as good as the 00:14:37.680 --> 00:14:39.680 -dry rope. -So why 00:14:39.680 --> 00:14:41.920 not all ropes are made this way where we 00:14:41.920 --> 00:14:44.860 have finer construction? 00:14:44.860 --> 00:14:46.320 Because price matters. 00:14:46.320 --> 00:14:48.720 Yeah now I would like to see not 200 cycles 00:14:48.720 --> 00:14:53.040 -but 1000. -Yes they come here. -Oh really? 00:14:53.040 --> 00:14:56.110 Not to 2000 but to 500. 00:14:56.110 --> 00:14:58.720 I would climb with 00:14:58.720 --> 00:15:01.360 this one, and with this one. Or if i have 00:15:01.360 --> 00:15:04.560 A risky day I would choose this. 00:15:04.560 --> 00:15:06.689 Do you have risky days? 00:15:06.689 --> 00:15:07.489 Sometimes... 00:15:07.489 --> 00:15:10.639 Turns out size or diameter is 00:15:10.639 --> 00:15:13.199 not all that matters when we talk about 00:15:13.199 --> 00:15:16.000 durability, construction, and extra 00:15:16.000 --> 00:15:18.880 treatments might have a bigger impact. 00:15:18.880 --> 00:15:21.040 It's a crazy difference, no? Having in 00:15:21.040 --> 00:15:22.880 mind that all of them will run through 00:15:22.880 --> 00:15:24.370 the same process 00:15:24.370 --> 00:15:28.240 to the point where super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked 00:15:28.240 --> 00:15:31.360 completely fine after 500 cycles of 00:15:31.360 --> 00:15:33.710 dragging it across the sharp edge... 00:15:33.710 --> 00:15:35.360 This one looks quite good. 00:15:35.360 --> 00:15:38.337 Like a little bit fuzzy but I would definitely use it. 00:15:38.337 --> 00:15:40.120 However much thicker 00:15:40.120 --> 00:15:43.279 9.5 millimeters rope, but old 00:15:43.279 --> 00:15:46.000 construction and no treatments, were 00:15:46.000 --> 00:15:47.699 completely done. 00:15:48.380 --> 00:15:51.839 My guess is five more falls and we snap it. 00:15:52.839 --> 00:15:55.440 -Maybe not -I think we have to increase, 00:15:55.440 --> 00:15:57.559 otherwise... yeah let's increase. 00:15:57.559 --> 00:16:00.000 Everybody wants harder falls but it's already 00:16:00.000 --> 00:16:01.759 getting harder, we went from a two and a 00:16:01.759 --> 00:16:04.047 half to three and a half. 00:16:04.047 --> 00:16:06.300 To increase? 00:16:06.300 --> 00:16:09.159 You can just dropping keep dropping it. Yeah keep dropping it. 00:16:09.159 --> 00:16:11.279 So I will get coffee 00:16:11.279 --> 00:16:14.189 -what do you want? -Coffee. -Espresso? 00:16:14.189 --> 00:16:15.519 -Lungo? -Lungo if possible. 00:16:15.519 --> 00:16:17.390 -Are you asking the viewer? -With milk? 00:16:17.390 --> 00:16:20.329 -Are you sending it to the viewers? -You want a coffee? 00:16:20.329 --> 00:16:23.040 Now one interesting observation I got while 00:16:23.040 --> 00:16:25.759 I was making this intro animation, 00:16:25.759 --> 00:16:27.839 which by the way took me multiple days 00:16:27.839 --> 00:16:29.600 and multiple attempts, 00:16:29.600 --> 00:16:32.720 was that while the rope is new, 00:16:32.720 --> 00:16:35.360 the file glides over the rope very 00:16:35.360 --> 00:16:37.920 smoothly and it's pretty hard to make 00:16:37.920 --> 00:16:40.320 any damage to it. But once the rope 00:16:40.320 --> 00:16:43.600 starts becoming fuzzy, it becomes easier 00:16:43.600 --> 00:16:46.320 to make some extra damage so it felt 00:16:46.320 --> 00:16:47.440 like the 00:16:47.440 --> 00:16:49.839 fuzziness or the damage to the rope is 00:16:49.839 --> 00:16:52.320 kind of exponential the worse it gets 00:16:52.320 --> 00:16:55.440 the easier it is to make it even worse. 00:16:55.440 --> 00:16:57.440 Oh yeah let's do again. Only six 00:16:57.440 --> 00:16:59.279 strands left. 00:16:59.279 --> 00:17:01.920 -(Offscreen) Whoah! -(Offcreen) So... okay 00:17:01.920 --> 00:17:04.629 So you can come back already with your coffee! 00:17:04.629 --> 00:17:07.120 So the force went lower, but one 00:17:07.120 --> 00:17:08.959 -strand snapped. -(Offscreen) No, two! 00:17:08.959 --> 00:17:11.520 Two snapped but the sound of the strand 00:17:11.520 --> 00:17:13.439 snapping was (vocalizes) 00:17:13.439 --> 00:17:16.160 Is it bad if I scream behind the camera? 00:17:16.160 --> 00:17:17.760 It's not the sound that you want to hear 00:17:17.760 --> 00:17:19.679 when you're out climbing. 00:17:19.679 --> 00:17:23.199 Okay: the fun part. How fuzzy is too fuzzy 00:17:23.199 --> 00:17:26.319 or how soft the rope is too soft? When 00:17:26.319 --> 00:17:28.419 -should people actually cut it? -I mean you 00:17:28.419 --> 00:17:31.039 pull the rope through your hands to 00:17:31.039 --> 00:17:33.280 check the ropes. This you should do on 00:17:33.280 --> 00:17:35.120 -a regular basis. -And what are you doing 00:17:35.120 --> 00:17:37.039 -when you're pulling? - Well, on the one hand 00:17:37.039 --> 00:17:40.080 I feel the rope so I feel how the 00:17:40.080 --> 00:17:43.360 rope behaves. If it's super soft, if it's 00:17:43.360 --> 00:17:45.280 thicker, and at the same time you know 00:17:45.280 --> 00:17:47.840 you you pull it over your finger and you 00:17:47.840 --> 00:17:50.000 look at it so you do like a visual 00:17:50.000 --> 00:17:51.660 inspection. 00:17:56.799 --> 00:17:59.120 Beautiful rope. Would whip. 00:17:59.120 --> 00:18:01.919 -Would you whip? -You would whip. 00:18:01.919 --> 00:18:04.880 Oh the force went lower again 00:18:04.880 --> 00:18:06.720 so basically the less core strands we 00:18:06.720 --> 00:18:08.760 have, the better the rope is. 00:18:08.760 --> 00:18:10.880 The softer the catch 00:18:11.440 --> 00:18:13.679 I wouldn't see it that way but... 00:18:13.679 --> 00:18:15.679 If you want a soft catch just break the 00:18:15.679 --> 00:18:16.559 rope. 00:18:16.559 --> 00:18:18.880 So let's say I'm running my rope through 00:18:18.880 --> 00:18:21.520 my hand and I find a spot which is 00:18:21.520 --> 00:18:24.480 softer. So how do I know if it's already 00:18:24.480 --> 00:18:26.614 bad or... 00:18:26.614 --> 00:18:28.400 First consider the whole rope. I mean 00:18:28.400 --> 00:18:30.320 if you have a really soft rope because 00:18:30.320 --> 00:18:31.919 they're... I mean some ropes are 00:18:31.919 --> 00:18:34.080 already soft when you you buy them in 00:18:34.080 --> 00:18:36.240 the store. I would say that our ropes 00:18:36.240 --> 00:18:38.880 are a little bit stiffer in general and 00:18:38.880 --> 00:18:40.460 we do that to make them more 00:18:40.460 --> 00:18:42.320 long-lasting but if your whole rope is 00:18:42.320 --> 00:18:44.170 very soft and you have a spot which is 00:18:44.170 --> 00:18:46.559 just a little bit softer, 00:18:46.559 --> 00:18:48.880 I would not like say oh 00:18:48.880 --> 00:18:50.960 that's super dangerous, but if you 00:18:50.960 --> 00:18:51.679 have 00:18:51.679 --> 00:18:53.600 the rope is generally really stiff and 00:18:53.600 --> 00:18:56.000 then you have one spot with this ultra 00:18:56.000 --> 00:18:57.440 soft then you know 00:18:57.440 --> 00:19:00.320 something is not right there. And exactly 00:19:00.320 --> 00:19:02.080 what's not right there 00:19:02.080 --> 00:19:04.880 there are so many things that it could be. 00:19:04.880 --> 00:19:07.280 So as an example if I would be 00:19:07.280 --> 00:19:09.760 just looking into this piece of the rope, 00:19:09.760 --> 00:19:11.840 it would be pretty difficult to say how 00:19:11.840 --> 00:19:15.315 soft it needs to be and if I should cut it. 00:19:15.315 --> 00:19:18.559 But if I compare it to the middle of the 00:19:18.559 --> 00:19:21.280 same rope, I can clearly see a big 00:19:21.280 --> 00:19:24.240 difference. So this clearly is far from 00:19:24.240 --> 00:19:26.400 what it used to be and it's better to 00:19:26.400 --> 00:19:28.880 cut this end. And if you want some tips 00:19:28.880 --> 00:19:31.539 on cutting ropes check out this video. 00:19:36.109 --> 00:19:38.000 I don't think we can do another one. 00:19:38.000 --> 00:19:39.919 Unfortunately the rope kept stretching 00:19:39.919 --> 00:19:42.320 and stretching and stretching until we 00:19:42.320 --> 00:19:44.559 almost reached the bottom of the drop 00:19:44.559 --> 00:19:46.559 tower and we couldn't do any more 00:19:46.559 --> 00:19:47.679 testing, 00:19:47.679 --> 00:19:50.799 however we decided to show what happens 00:19:50.799 --> 00:19:53.440 if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging 00:19:53.440 --> 00:19:56.320 on only core strands and you touch the 00:19:56.320 --> 00:19:58.640 core strands with the knife. 00:19:58.640 --> 00:20:00.960 Cut test 00:20:04.240 --> 00:20:07.440 -It just barely touched it. -What did you do?! 00:20:07.440 --> 00:20:10.480 You went too long. 00:20:10.480 --> 00:20:11.760 What happened? 00:20:11.760 --> 00:20:14.400 But what happened now? 00:20:14.559 --> 00:20:16.559 So it didn't break so I was right with 00:20:16.559 --> 00:20:18.820 10 to 20 right? 00:20:18.820 --> 00:20:21.360 -Actually yes. -Yes thanks. 00:20:21.360 --> 00:20:24.000 So basically what we got is 00:20:24.000 --> 00:20:28.400 running very damaged rope on relatively 00:20:28.400 --> 00:20:29.600 hard-ish... 00:20:29.600 --> 00:20:32.159 -Maybe to normal fall? -Yeah, real kN scenario. 00:20:32.159 --> 00:20:35.200 -Ripped the sheath of the rope 00:20:35.200 --> 00:20:37.120 in just two falls which is very 00:20:37.120 --> 00:20:38.799 dangerous. But then it was good to see 00:20:38.799 --> 00:20:41.039 that the rope did not snap 00:20:41.039 --> 00:20:43.840 and only the core strands kept holding 00:20:43.860 --> 00:20:47.310 for multiple more falls so that's good to know. 00:20:47.310 --> 00:20:48.960 Pretty good safety margin 00:20:48.960 --> 00:20:51.200 But when he touched barely with the 00:20:51.200 --> 00:20:53.120 sharp knife the core strands he just 00:20:53.120 --> 00:20:55.520 barely touched it it snapped 00:20:55.520 --> 00:20:57.039 so if your 00:20:57.039 --> 00:20:58.720 sheath gets away, 00:20:58.720 --> 00:21:01.039 and then your rope runs across something 00:21:01.039 --> 00:21:03.200 -sharp on the rock... -Super dangerous. 00:21:03.200 --> 00:21:04.240 Yeah 00:21:04.240 --> 00:21:05.840 I think now we're coming to the second 00:21:05.840 --> 00:21:07.919 scenario you wanna you wanna show when 00:21:07.919 --> 00:21:10.400 -it comes to sharp edge scenarios... -Yeah. 00:21:10.400 --> 00:21:13.760 like the ropes don't have this high 00:21:13.760 --> 00:21:16.159 safety margin. 00:21:16.159 --> 00:21:18.720 Well! I hope that you are subscribed because 00:21:18.720 --> 00:21:20.799 the next experiment that I'm gonna show 00:21:20.799 --> 00:21:23.280 in the next video is gonna blow your 00:21:23.280 --> 00:21:26.559 mind, and probably change a little bit 00:21:26.559 --> 00:21:28.799 the way you care about your climbing 00:21:28.799 --> 00:21:30.720 equipment. 00:21:30.720 --> 00:21:34.720 Okay, now I need you to pee. 00:21:34.720 --> 00:21:35.749 Come on.