[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.00,0:00:03.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:00:20.24,0:00:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Whoah!
Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.84,0:00:23.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not a sound that you want to hear
Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.52,0:00:25.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you're out climbing.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.06,0:00:27.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Is it bad if I scream behind the camera?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.28,0:00:32.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How fuzzy is too fuzzy?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.80,0:00:34.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is the rope that I used for about
Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.88,0:00:37.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,two years of intense climbing...
Dialogue: 0,0:00:37.68,0:00:40.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or at least this is the end of this rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.00,0:00:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I compare to the middle, this is how
Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.24,0:00:45.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the middle of the same rope looks.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.04,0:00:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as you can see it's a huge
Dialogue: 0,0:00:47.20,0:00:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.04,0:00:51.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the question is, should I worry about
Dialogue: 0,0:00:51.76,0:00:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this fuzziness? Or another question that
Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.08,0:00:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I see climbers disagree a lot on is: If i
Dialogue: 0,0:00:57.36,0:01:00.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can squeeze my rope like this, does it
Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.16,0:01:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mean that inside, core strands are
Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.80,0:01:04.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,damaged or no?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.50,0:01:07.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, to avoid breaking my back on homemade
Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.78,0:01:09.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiments....
Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.23,0:01:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah as some of you noticed
Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.56,0:01:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it can be quite stressful
Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.24,0:01:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so not this time. This time I decided to
Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.96,0:01:19.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reach out to Mammut and ask if by any
Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.92,0:01:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,chance I could come over and nerd with
Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.48,0:01:23.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,their engineers.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.75,0:01:24.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How dangerous is this?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:24.83,0:01:26.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(laughs) We will find out!
Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.74,0:01:28.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this is a product developer from
Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.97,0:01:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Mammut
Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.08,0:01:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you said you're an expert in textiles.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.56,0:01:34.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Would you whip on this?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:34.04,0:01:36.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(uncomfortable noises)
Dialogue: 0,0:01:37.20,0:01:39.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Can we destroy this rope? I would say the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.20,0:01:41.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,core strands won't fail if it's a normal
Dialogue: 0,0:01:41.92,0:01:42.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sport climbing fall.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.92,0:01:44.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Within the first fall?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.50,0:01:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No no no not the first fall.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.08,0:01:47.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Would you whip on this?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:47.57,0:01:48.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh yes definitely.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:48.74,0:01:49.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How many times?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.78,0:01:54.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this rope is not the same rope that
Dialogue: 0,0:01:54.00,0:01:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we used in an experiment. That one was a
Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.64,0:01:58.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit worse than this
Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.98,0:02:00.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it kind of died.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:00.82,0:02:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Can ropes die?
Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.96,0:02:04.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Anyway the goal was to find out what
Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.06,0:02:06.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens if you take a huge fall
Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.72,0:02:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and this soft spot hits on your
Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.52,0:02:10.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quickdraw
Dialogue: 0,0:02:10.56,0:02:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly on the peak force. And by the way
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.36,0:02:16.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this video is not sponsored, but in case
Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.24,0:02:18.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you don't know, Mammut is one of the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.32,0:02:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oldest companies making climbing ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.44,0:02:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so they have some serious knowledge
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.76,0:02:27.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about that so I wanted to know everything.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.06,0:02:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's get nerdy! I have a
Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.72,0:02:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bunch of questions from me and my
Dialogue: 0,0:02:31.12,0:02:31.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,followers.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:31.85,0:02:32.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sounds great!
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.83,0:02:34.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ah. You're probably gonna add
Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.30,0:02:35.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10 000 more questions.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.52,0:02:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm sorry.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.40,0:02:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And by the way the questions that you
Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.48,0:02:39.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,guys sent
Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.84,0:02:40.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,had some
Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.96,0:02:43.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,serious sense of practicality.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.88,0:02:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A cat pees on my rope how bad is that?
Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.60,0:02:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or a dog peed on my rope how bad is that?
Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.96,0:02:53.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you have a dry rope
Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.20,0:02:55.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we test it with human pee
Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.48,0:02:58.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because I mean if you're on a multipitch\Nand you have to go... you know...
Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.46,0:03:00.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you actually did the testing on this?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.40,0:03:01.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yes and
Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.60,0:03:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the answer is no it's not dangerous.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.48,0:03:07.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more
Dialogue: 0,0:03:07.68,0:03:09.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,aggressive than a human pee?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:09.37,0:03:13.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Hey let's go do some science!
Dialogue: 0,0:03:13.26,0:03:15.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is where the rope testing magic
Dialogue: 0,0:03:15.35,0:03:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens and this is where you get those
Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.44,0:03:20.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,six seven eight or whatever falls on the rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.46,0:03:21.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Exactly yeah.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.64,0:03:22.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Statistics.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.36,0:03:24.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The scenario is like really really hard
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.65,0:03:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like we have a fall factor of around 1.7
Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.80,0:03:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram
Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.88,0:03:33.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,steel mass which is like super static.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:33.12,0:03:35.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What are the forces on standard tests?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.44,0:03:37.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For a single rope it's
Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.16,0:03:39.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around like 8 to 9 kN.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.27,0:03:40.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For the first fall?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.29,0:03:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For the first fall.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.44,0:03:43.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And... we had the first problem.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.33,0:03:45.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so called standard rope test that every
Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.52,0:03:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,manufacturer does is super extreme. In
Dialogue: 0,0:03:48.96,0:03:51.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,order to make it more like a real
Dialogue: 0,0:03:51.23,0:03:53.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing fall, we needed to reduce it
Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.95,0:03:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,below 4 kilonewtons. And if you ask why four,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.36,0:03:59.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it means that you haven't seen these two
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.76,0:04:01.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,videos where we tried to create their
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.84,0:04:04.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hardest real climbing falls and measure
Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.40,0:04:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the forces of them.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:06.08,0:04:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's why I said like maybe we try like
Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.48,0:04:10.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with a new rope to get like a feeling
Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.96,0:04:12.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like what falling height we need to have
Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.96,0:04:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like around this less than 4kN and then
Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.32,0:04:17.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we switch to your rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:20.56,0:04:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Don't look, guess. \N-2 kN.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.48,0:04:24.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2 K? I think it's less.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.72,0:04:28.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Wow two and a half.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.38,0:04:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,As I said these guys
Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.44,0:04:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are really good. It took only one fall,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.32,0:04:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we got the force of two and a half
Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.40,0:04:37.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kilonewtons on a brand new rope. And that
Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.20,0:04:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was perfect because we were estimating
Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.36,0:04:41.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that once we swapped the ropes to the
Dialogue: 0,0:04:41.36,0:04:44.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,old one the force will go slightly
Dialogue: 0,0:04:44.08,0:04:46.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,higher because older ropes don't
Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.88,0:04:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,absorb the impact as well and it's going
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.68,0:04:52.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be a perfect representation of
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.00,0:04:54.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a realistic hard climbing fall.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.88,0:04:56.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here's the tricky part:
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.40,0:04:57.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you fall on a rock,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.96,0:05:01.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes it happens but almost the same
Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.52,0:05:03.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,spot hits the
Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.20,0:05:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-top carabiner.\N-Yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.08,0:05:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now the tricky part is how to place
Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.96,0:05:12.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that spot that it would be on a peak
Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.08,0:05:14.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,force on the carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.12,0:05:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.76,0:05:19.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not easy. Or hard is easy.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.71,0:05:22.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,As you can imagine, once the fall happens
Dialogue: 0,0:05:22.69,0:05:25.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope stretches and that soft spot that
Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.57,0:05:29.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we are trying to hit will move.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.28,0:05:31.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(indistinct)
Dialogue: 0,0:05:33.76,0:05:35.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You thought it's gonna be easy?
Dialogue: 0,0:05:35.60,0:05:36.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No no,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.72,0:05:39.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I knew it will be exactly like this.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.28,0:05:42.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The force to the rope will start increasing
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.24,0:05:44.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increasing increasing increasing
Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.00,0:05:46.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increasing and at some point reaches the
Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.00,0:05:48.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maximum, and then the force will start
Dialogue: 0,0:05:48.24,0:05:49.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dropping dropping dropping dropping
Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.76,0:05:50.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dropping.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.88,0:05:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the challenge is, how to position the
Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.60,0:05:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft spot
Dialogue: 0,0:05:54.96,0:05:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it would move over the quickdraw
Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.72,0:06:01.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as close to the peak of the force.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:01.53,0:06:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With this
Dialogue: 0,0:06:02.96,0:06:05.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,small fall scenario a new rope
Dialogue: 0,0:06:05.84,0:06:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's about like what? 400?
Dialogue: 0,0:06:08.48,0:06:13.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-300 400 500 .\N-Right. A lot
Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.46,0:06:17.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-So new rope would hold about 400 falls on...
Dialogue: 0,0:06:17.09,0:06:19.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Small falls\N-Like, realistic falls.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.59,0:06:21.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's see what happens if we put that
Dialogue: 0,0:06:21.86,0:06:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,damaged rope and see
Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.92,0:06:27.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if it's hundreds or it's just a few.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:39.92,0:06:41.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Do you think we will hit that spot or we
Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.92,0:06:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be very far off?
Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.68,0:06:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I think we hit it yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.40,0:06:49.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where is it now? Like 30 centimeters
Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.04,0:06:50.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,below.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.08,0:06:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah it's around here now
Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.88,0:06:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the rope is tense so probably this
Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.04,0:06:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will move up,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.68,0:06:59.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much we will see.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.44,0:07:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we overshot the soft spot just by a
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.28,0:07:13.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit, so we will try to readjust
Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.92,0:07:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now and
Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.36,0:07:17.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see if we can hit it more perfectly.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.08,0:07:25.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we managed to hit the spot at
Dialogue: 0,0:07:25.26,0:07:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2.47 kilonewtons of force, and now we will
Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.60,0:07:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try to increase the fall a little bit to
Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.16,0:07:34.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get to really hard falls.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:34.22,0:07:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-20, 30 centimeters?\N-Yeah let's do that.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.32,0:07:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's see if we will still stay in
Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.96,0:07:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the damaged spot where it will just
Dialogue: 0,0:07:40.88,0:07:42.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stretch over.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:47.84,0:07:49.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we broke the sheath
Dialogue: 0,0:07:50.64,0:07:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we broke the sheath after two falls
Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.52,0:07:56.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you said it's gonna last!
Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.72,0:07:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No but that's what I said like the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:58.40,0:07:59.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sheath will break...
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.92,0:08:01.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What's was the force?
Dialogue: 0,0:08:01.12,0:08:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The force was
Dialogue: 0,0:08:02.96,0:08:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only 2.1.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:04.88,0:08:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Only 2.1 kilonewtons and the sheath
Dialogue: 0,0:08:06.96,0:08:08.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,broke!
Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.37,0:08:15.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So...
Dialogue: 0,0:08:15.14,0:08:16.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if your rope is
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.79,0:08:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft, good luck.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:18.80,0:08:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If the sheath is already damaged like we
Dialogue: 0,0:08:22.24,0:08:24.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,saw it like now this will lead like to
Dialogue: 0,0:08:24.24,0:08:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cut sheath like immediately. But the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.88,0:08:28.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the good thing is that the rope will not
Dialogue: 0,0:08:28.56,0:08:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,snap
Dialogue: 0,0:08:30.64,0:08:32.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because the core strands like are
Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.96,0:08:36.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-still intact. \N-So how many falls it would
Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.40,0:08:39.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take now to completely snap the rope?
Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.84,0:08:41.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's a good question, I never tested
Dialogue: 0,0:08:41.76,0:08:43.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.66,0:08:45.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But we could do this I guess we can do
Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.52,0:08:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at least like two or three falls now
Dialogue: 0,0:08:47.84,0:08:48.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only on the core strands.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.73,0:08:49.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yes yes.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.62,0:08:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Guess how many falls it's going to take.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:53.28,0:08:54.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,20.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.23,0:08:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-20? \N-Yeah.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.44,0:09:00.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Wow so it took only two falls to completely \Nshred this sheath.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.11,0:09:02.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the good thing is like a rope is
Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.26,0:09:04.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,constructed in a way that the sheath only
Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.96,0:09:07.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,takes around like 10 to 20 percent
Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.36,0:09:08.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the load,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.56,0:09:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the rest like the
Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.40,0:09:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,load bearing structure is basically only
Dialogue: 0,0:09:12.32,0:09:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the core.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:13.28,0:09:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay so
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.88,0:09:16.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The question is if you take a rope and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.80,0:09:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you squeeze it so you feel that it's
Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.72,0:09:20.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft completely inside, does it mean
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.88,0:09:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the core is damaged or no?
Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.12,0:09:25.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No because a lot of people think that
Dialogue: 0,0:09:25.25,0:09:26.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's damaged inside.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.35,0:09:27.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The core is still intact.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.55,0:09:29.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like if I were to cut the rope at
Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.12,0:09:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that spot would i find some damage
Dialogue: 0,0:09:31.28,0:09:33.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,inside of the core strands?
Dialogue: 0,0:09:33.46,0:09:36.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's difficult to say because over time,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.00,0:09:37.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the core strands, also when we do fall
Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.87,0:09:39.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tests, you can see that it gets a
Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.83,0:09:41.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit more hairy
Dialogue: 0,0:09:41.67,0:09:44.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you would cut it open, but it's just
Dialogue: 0,0:09:44.01,0:09:45.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a couple of filaments that might have
Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.84,0:09:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,broken, but it's not that an entire core
Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.08,0:09:50.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strand is broken, but it's weakened for
Dialogue: 0,0:09:50.88,0:09:52.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sure.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:52.08,0:09:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Let's see if we can snap this rope now.\N-Yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:09:55.04,0:09:58.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So how many falls you said?
Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.39,0:09:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't know.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:59.68,0:10:01.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10 to 20?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.18,0:10:03.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10 to 20. let's see.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.12,0:10:05.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So this is one multifilament.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.60,0:10:10.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Multifilament made out of multiple filaments.\N-Yes.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.00,0:10:11.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How much?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.32,0:10:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-280. \N-This is 280 inside of this so if I
Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.04,0:10:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would take one,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:17.44,0:10:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what force that one thing would hold?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.36,0:10:24.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well you would not test it like this
Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.72,0:10:27.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because a multifilament you look at it
Dialogue: 0,0:10:27.20,0:10:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as the entire thing but what i can tell
Dialogue: 0,0:10:30.08,0:10:36.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you, that this core strand would hold 180 kilos
Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.53,0:10:37.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we are not even reaching
Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.74,0:10:40.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-very hard falls yet. \N-No, this is nothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.57,0:10:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-So you see?\N-One strand snapped.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.20,0:10:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you said 20 how many strands are
Dialogue: 0,0:10:49.12,0:10:50.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,inside?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.04,0:10:54.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Two of eight!
Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.56,0:10:57.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you said 20 falls?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:57.11,0:10:59.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10 to 20!
Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.05,0:11:02.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Apart from standard drop tests, what
Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.48,0:11:04.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are other tests that are performed on
Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.72,0:11:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-climbing ropes?\N- What we usually do is
Dialogue: 0,0:11:06.88,0:11:09.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also test the abrasion resistance of the
Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.36,0:11:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope so there we have an in-house
Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.44,0:11:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,developed testing method. So it's a
Dialogue: 0,0:11:13.28,0:11:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,machine which pulls a rope over a sharp
Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.48,0:11:19.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,metal edge and we are counting how many
Dialogue: 0,0:11:19.68,0:11:22.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cycles it takes for actually damaging
Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.00,0:11:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the sheath.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.36,0:11:32.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We have like two parts now broken.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:32.40,0:11:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we have one part and two parts broken!
Dialogue: 0,0:11:36.24,0:11:38.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah if we talk about abrasion resistant I
Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.48,0:11:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have some interesting stuff to show you.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:40.72,0:11:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,200 cycles so 200 times
Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.16,0:11:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back and forth. Here you see a classic
Dialogue: 0,0:11:46.64,0:11:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope so it does not have any treatment
Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.44,0:11:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impregnation, it's a 9.5. It's pretty
Dialogue: 0,0:11:52.88,0:11:55.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-worn out.\N-It is worn out! It's at the point
Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.20,0:11:57.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where i would consider maybe even
Dialogue: 0,0:11:57.12,0:11:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-cutting this. \N-Yes, and you should.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:59.84,0:12:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then next to it, we have
Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.76,0:12:04.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:04.72,0:12:08.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-What? That's a huge difference! \N-Yes.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:08.16,0:12:10.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's exactly the same rope but just
Dialogue: 0,0:12:10.64,0:12:14.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-dry treated? \N-Yes. that's a huge huge difference.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:16.08,0:12:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It feels a little bit burnt like
Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.76,0:12:20.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you touch it,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.16,0:12:22.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it definitely got hot,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:22.00,0:12:23.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like on the edge.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.68,0:12:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So your six lives got a bit damaged.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.24,0:12:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But that's good to know that you can climb.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:28.32,0:12:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can climb? You would climb on this?!
Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.32,0:12:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I mean the Fitz Traverse
Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.44,0:12:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was done by Sean Villanueva like with a
Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.84,0:12:35.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sheath-cut rope, like from the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.68,0:12:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beginning. On I think the second pitch or
Dialogue: 0,0:12:37.76,0:12:39.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the third pitch he had a stone fall, and
Dialogue: 0,0:12:39.84,0:12:41.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,his rope already got cut. Like the sheath
Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.68,0:12:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was completely damaged, and he did the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.20,0:12:45.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whole Fitz Traverse with this rope then.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:45.60,0:12:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,He like rappelled a lot over it.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:48.32,0:12:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Does the percentage of sheath versus core strands...
Dialogue: 0,0:12:52.16,0:12:54.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-It's not always the same.\N-In sport climbing ropes?
Dialogue: 0,0:12:54.90,0:12:56.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah or like climbing
Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.48,0:12:58.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-ropes in general. \N-It's not always the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.16,0:12:59.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-same now?\N-No.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:59.20,0:13:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-And what does it depend on? \N-Well for us
Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.92,0:13:03.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it depends on what kind of rope we want
Dialogue: 0,0:13:03.92,0:13:06.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-to make. \N-Sport Climbing.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:06.40,0:13:08.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Wait let me show you something.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.18,0:13:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Show me something. \N-Okay so you have the interplay
Dialogue: 0,0:13:10.48,0:13:13.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of both the percentage of material that
Dialogue: 0,0:13:13.12,0:13:16.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is the sheath but also
Dialogue: 0,0:13:16.08,0:13:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how the sheath was constructed. For example
Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.80,0:13:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here on this rope we have more sheath
Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.80,0:13:24.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,twines so
Dialogue: 0,0:13:24.72,0:13:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you would count these
Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.84,0:13:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,singular ones, they are much more than on
Dialogue: 0,0:13:31.44,0:13:34.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-this sheath. \N-Oh yeah that's almost double, no?
Dialogue: 0,0:13:34.64,0:13:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No that it isn't but it's just a slight
Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.36,0:13:39.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference. But if you check out the
Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.60,0:13:40.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,surface
Dialogue: 0,0:13:40.96,0:13:44.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can see that here the little cubes
Dialogue: 0,0:13:44.80,0:13:47.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that they form are smaller
Dialogue: 0,0:13:47.60,0:13:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than on this one. So here we have a super
Dialogue: 0,0:13:51.60,0:13:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fine surface of the of the sheath so if
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.40,0:13:56.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you for example would touch this one it
Dialogue: 0,0:13:56.96,0:13:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-feels much rougher. \N-Yeah.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.12,0:14:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so this is also what makes it more
Dialogue: 0,0:14:00.88,0:14:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,durable.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:03.82,0:14:06.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now one more and it snaps.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:06.25,0:14:08.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Oh shit!\N-No kidding!
Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.16,0:14:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we are still very far from twenty but
Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.24,0:14:14.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-what's the force? \N-Maybe I get some coffee huh? No?
Dialogue: 0,0:14:14.74,0:14:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Camerawoman) Yes!
Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.76,0:14:17.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-It was already 3.4.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.81,0:14:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's increasing and increasing so the dynamic
Dialogue: 0,0:14:20.40,0:14:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,performance of the rope gets lower and
Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.16,0:14:23.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lower and lower.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:23.23,0:14:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This one here is our workhorse construction. It does not have
Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.96,0:14:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any treatment but we're using the best
Dialogue: 0,0:14:29.44,0:14:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the finest yarns that we have to
Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.92,0:14:35.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make this construction. And it also.. I
Dialogue: 0,0:14:35.04,0:14:37.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would say you know it's as good as the
Dialogue: 0,0:14:37.68,0:14:39.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-dry rope.\N-So why
Dialogue: 0,0:14:39.68,0:14:41.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not all ropes are made this way where we
Dialogue: 0,0:14:41.92,0:14:44.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have finer construction?
Dialogue: 0,0:14:44.86,0:14:46.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because price matters.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:46.32,0:14:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah now I would like to see not 200 cycles
Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.72,0:14:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-but 1000. \N-Yes they come here. \N-Oh really?
Dialogue: 0,0:14:53.04,0:14:56.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not to 2000 but to 500.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:56.11,0:14:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I would climb with
Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.72,0:15:01.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this one, and with this one. Or if i have
Dialogue: 0,0:15:01.36,0:15:04.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A risky day I would choose this.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.56,0:15:06.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Do you have risky days?
Dialogue: 0,0:15:06.69,0:15:07.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sometimes...
Dialogue: 0,0:15:07.49,0:15:10.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Turns out size or diameter is
Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.64,0:15:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not all that matters when we talk about
Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.20,0:15:16.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,durability, construction, and extra
Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.00,0:15:18.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,treatments might have a bigger impact.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:18.88,0:15:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's a crazy difference, no? Having in
Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.04,0:15:22.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mind that all of them will run through
Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.88,0:15:24.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the same process
Dialogue: 0,0:15:24.37,0:15:28.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the point where super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked
Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.24,0:15:31.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely fine after 500 cycles of
Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.36,0:15:33.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dragging it across the sharp edge...
Dialogue: 0,0:15:33.71,0:15:35.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This one looks quite good.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:35.36,0:15:38.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like a little bit fuzzy but I would \Ndefinitely use it.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.34,0:15:40.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However much thicker
Dialogue: 0,0:15:40.12,0:15:43.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.5 millimeters rope, but old
Dialogue: 0,0:15:43.28,0:15:46.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,construction and no treatments, were
Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.00,0:15:47.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely done.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.38,0:15:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,My guess is five more falls and we snap it.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.84,0:15:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Maybe not\N-I think we have to increase,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:55.44,0:15:57.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,otherwise... yeah let's increase.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:57.56,0:16:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Everybody wants harder falls but it's already
Dialogue: 0,0:16:00.00,0:16:01.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,getting harder, we went from a two and a
Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.76,0:16:04.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,half to three and a half.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:04.05,0:16:06.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To increase?
Dialogue: 0,0:16:06.30,0:16:09.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can just dropping keep dropping it. \NYeah keep dropping it.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:09.16,0:16:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I will get coffee
Dialogue: 0,0:16:11.28,0:16:14.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-what do you want? \N-Coffee.\N-Espresso?
Dialogue: 0,0:16:14.19,0:16:15.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Lungo?\N-Lungo if possible.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.52,0:16:17.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Are you asking the viewer? \N-With milk?
Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.39,0:16:20.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Are you sending it to the viewers? \N-You want a coffee?
Dialogue: 0,0:16:20.33,0:16:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now one interesting observation I got while
Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.04,0:16:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I was making this intro animation,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.76,0:16:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which by the way took me multiple days
Dialogue: 0,0:16:27.84,0:16:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and multiple attempts,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:29.60,0:16:32.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was that while the rope is new,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:32.72,0:16:35.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the file glides over the rope very
Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.36,0:16:37.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smoothly and it's pretty hard to make
Dialogue: 0,0:16:37.92,0:16:40.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any damage to it. But once the rope
Dialogue: 0,0:16:40.32,0:16:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,starts becoming fuzzy, it becomes easier
Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.60,0:16:46.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to make some extra damage so it felt
Dialogue: 0,0:16:46.32,0:16:47.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like the
Dialogue: 0,0:16:47.44,0:16:49.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fuzziness or the damage to the rope is
Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.84,0:16:52.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kind of exponential the worse it gets
Dialogue: 0,0:16:52.32,0:16:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the easier it is to make it even worse.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:55.44,0:16:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh yeah let's do again. Only six
Dialogue: 0,0:16:57.44,0:16:59.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strands left.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:59.28,0:17:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-(Offscreen) Whoah!\N-(Offcreen) So... okay
Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.92,0:17:04.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you can come back already with your\Ncoffee!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.63,0:17:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the force went lower, but one
Dialogue: 0,0:17:07.12,0:17:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-strand snapped.\N-(Offscreen) No, two!
Dialogue: 0,0:17:08.96,0:17:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Two snapped but the sound of the strand
Dialogue: 0,0:17:11.52,0:17:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,snapping was (vocalizes)
Dialogue: 0,0:17:13.44,0:17:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Is it bad if I scream behind the camera?
Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.16,0:17:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not the sound that you want to hear
Dialogue: 0,0:17:17.76,0:17:19.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you're out climbing.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:19.68,0:17:23.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay: the fun part. How fuzzy is too fuzzy
Dialogue: 0,0:17:23.20,0:17:26.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or how soft the rope is too soft? When
Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.32,0:17:28.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-should people actually cut it? \N-I mean you
Dialogue: 0,0:17:28.42,0:17:31.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull the rope through your hands to
Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.04,0:17:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,check the ropes. This you should do on
Dialogue: 0,0:17:33.28,0:17:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-a regular basis. \N-And what are you doing
Dialogue: 0,0:17:35.12,0:17:37.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-when you're pulling?\N- Well, on the one hand
Dialogue: 0,0:17:37.04,0:17:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I feel the rope so I feel how the
Dialogue: 0,0:17:40.08,0:17:43.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope behaves. If it's super soft, if it's
Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.36,0:17:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thicker, and at the same time you know
Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.28,0:17:47.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you you pull it over your finger and you
Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.84,0:17:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,look at it so you do like a visual
Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.00,0:17:51.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,inspection.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.80,0:17:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Beautiful rope. Would whip.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.12,0:18:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Would you whip?\N-You would whip.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:01.92,0:18:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh the force went lower again
Dialogue: 0,0:18:04.88,0:18:06.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so basically the less core strands we
Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.72,0:18:08.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have, the better the rope is.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:08.76,0:18:10.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The softer the catch
Dialogue: 0,0:18:11.44,0:18:13.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wouldn't see it that way but...
Dialogue: 0,0:18:13.68,0:18:15.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you want a soft catch just break the
Dialogue: 0,0:18:15.68,0:18:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:16.56,0:18:18.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's say I'm running my rope through
Dialogue: 0,0:18:18.88,0:18:21.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my hand and I find a spot which is
Dialogue: 0,0:18:21.52,0:18:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,softer. So how do I know if it's already
Dialogue: 0,0:18:24.48,0:18:26.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bad or...
Dialogue: 0,0:18:26.61,0:18:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First consider the whole rope. I mean
Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.40,0:18:30.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you have a really soft rope because
Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.32,0:18:31.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they're... I mean some ropes are
Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.92,0:18:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,already soft when you you buy them in
Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.08,0:18:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the store. I would say that our ropes
Dialogue: 0,0:18:36.24,0:18:38.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are a little bit stiffer in general and
Dialogue: 0,0:18:38.88,0:18:40.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we do that to make them more
Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.46,0:18:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,long-lasting but if your whole rope is
Dialogue: 0,0:18:42.32,0:18:44.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very soft and you have a spot which is
Dialogue: 0,0:18:44.17,0:18:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just a little bit softer,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.56,0:18:48.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I would not like say oh
Dialogue: 0,0:18:48.88,0:18:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's super dangerous, but if you
Dialogue: 0,0:18:50.96,0:18:51.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have
Dialogue: 0,0:18:51.68,0:18:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope is generally really stiff and
Dialogue: 0,0:18:53.60,0:18:56.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then you have one spot with this ultra
Dialogue: 0,0:18:56.00,0:18:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft then you know
Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.44,0:19:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,something is not right there. And exactly
Dialogue: 0,0:19:00.32,0:19:02.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what's not right there
Dialogue: 0,0:19:02.08,0:19:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there are so many things that it\Ncould be.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:04.88,0:19:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as an example if I would be
Dialogue: 0,0:19:07.28,0:19:09.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just looking into this piece of the rope,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:09.76,0:19:11.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it would be pretty difficult to say how
Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.84,0:19:15.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,soft it needs to be and if I should cut it.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:15.32,0:19:18.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But if I compare it to the middle of the
Dialogue: 0,0:19:18.56,0:19:21.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same rope, I can clearly see a big
Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.28,0:19:24.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference. So this clearly is far from
Dialogue: 0,0:19:24.24,0:19:26.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what it used to be and it's better to
Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.40,0:19:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cut this end. And if you want some tips
Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.88,0:19:31.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on cutting ropes check out this video.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.11,0:19:38.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I don't think we can do another one.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.00,0:19:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Unfortunately the rope kept stretching
Dialogue: 0,0:19:39.92,0:19:42.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and stretching and stretching until we
Dialogue: 0,0:19:42.32,0:19:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,almost reached the bottom of the drop
Dialogue: 0,0:19:44.56,0:19:46.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tower and we couldn't do any more
Dialogue: 0,0:19:46.56,0:19:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,testing,
Dialogue: 0,0:19:47.68,0:19:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however we decided to show what happens
Dialogue: 0,0:19:50.80,0:19:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging
Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.44,0:19:56.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on only core strands and you touch the
Dialogue: 0,0:19:56.32,0:19:58.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,core strands with the knife.
Dialogue: 0,0:19:58.64,0:20:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Cut test
Dialogue: 0,0:20:04.24,0:20:07.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-It just barely touched it.\N-What did you do?!
Dialogue: 0,0:20:07.44,0:20:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You went too long.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:10.48,0:20:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What happened?
Dialogue: 0,0:20:11.76,0:20:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But what happened now?
Dialogue: 0,0:20:14.56,0:20:16.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it didn't break so I was right with
Dialogue: 0,0:20:16.56,0:20:18.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10 to 20 right?
Dialogue: 0,0:20:18.82,0:20:21.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Actually yes.\N-Yes thanks.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:21.36,0:20:24.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So basically what we got is
Dialogue: 0,0:20:24.00,0:20:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,running very damaged rope on relatively
Dialogue: 0,0:20:28.40,0:20:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard-ish...
Dialogue: 0,0:20:29.60,0:20:32.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Maybe to normal fall?\N-Yeah, real kN scenario.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:32.16,0:20:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-Ripped the sheath of the rope
Dialogue: 0,0:20:35.20,0:20:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in just two falls which is very
Dialogue: 0,0:20:37.12,0:20:38.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dangerous. But then it was good to see
Dialogue: 0,0:20:38.80,0:20:41.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the rope did not snap
Dialogue: 0,0:20:41.04,0:20:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and only the core strands kept holding
Dialogue: 0,0:20:43.86,0:20:47.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for multiple more falls so that's good to know.
Dialogue: 0,0:20:47.31,0:20:48.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Pretty good safety margin
Dialogue: 0,0:20:48.96,0:20:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But when he touched barely with the
Dialogue: 0,0:20:51.20,0:20:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sharp knife the core strands he just
Dialogue: 0,0:20:53.12,0:20:55.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,barely touched it it snapped
Dialogue: 0,0:20:55.52,0:20:57.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so if your
Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.04,0:20:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sheath gets away,
Dialogue: 0,0:20:58.72,0:21:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then your rope runs across something
Dialogue: 0,0:21:01.04,0:21:03.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-sharp on the rock... \N-Super dangerous.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:03.20,0:21:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah
Dialogue: 0,0:21:04.24,0:21:05.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I think now we're coming to the second
Dialogue: 0,0:21:05.84,0:21:07.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,scenario you wanna you wanna show when
Dialogue: 0,0:21:07.92,0:21:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-it comes to sharp edge scenarios...\N-Yeah.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:10.40,0:21:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like the ropes don't have this high
Dialogue: 0,0:21:13.76,0:21:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safety margin.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:16.16,0:21:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well! I hope that you are subscribed because
Dialogue: 0,0:21:18.72,0:21:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the next experiment that I'm gonna show
Dialogue: 0,0:21:20.80,0:21:23.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the next video is gonna blow your
Dialogue: 0,0:21:23.28,0:21:26.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mind, and probably change a little bit
Dialogue: 0,0:21:26.56,0:21:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the way you care about your climbing
Dialogue: 0,0:21:28.80,0:21:30.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,equipment.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:30.72,0:21:34.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, now I need you to pee.
Dialogue: 0,0:21:34.72,0:21:35.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Come on.