WEBVTT

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[Music]

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[Music]

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do

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[Music]

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whoa so

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it's not the sound that you want to hear

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when you're out climbing i bet if i

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scream behind the camera

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how fuzzy is too fuzzy

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this is the rope that i used for about

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two years of intense climbing

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or at least this is the end of this rope

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if i compare to the middle this is how

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the middle of the same rope looks

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and as you can see it's a huge

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difference

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so the question is should i worry about

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this fuzziness or another question that

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i see climbers disagree a lot on is if i

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can squeeze my rope like this does it

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mean that inside core strands are

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damaged or no so to avoid breaking my

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back on homemade experiments

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yeah as some of you noticed it can be

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quite stressful

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so not this time this time i decided to

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reach out to mammoth and ask if by any

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chance i could come over and nerd with

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their engineers how dangerous is this

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we will find out so this is a product

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developer from mahmoud and you said

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you're an expert in textiles would you

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whip on this

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can we destroy this rope i would say the

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coarse joints won't fail if it's a

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normal

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sport climbing fall within the first

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pole no no no not the first form would

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you whip on this oh yes definitely how

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many times

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so this rope is not the same rope that

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we used in an experiment that one was a

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little bit worse than this

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and it kind of died can ropes die anyway

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the goal was to find out what happens if

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you take a huge fall

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and this soft spot hits on your quick

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draw

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exactly on the peak force and by the way

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this video is not sponsored but in case

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you don't know mamut is one of the

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oldest companies making climbing ropes

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so they have some serious knowledge

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about that so i wanted to know

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everything let's get nerdy i have a

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bunch of questions from me and my

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followers sounds great ah you're

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probably gonna add 10 000 more questions

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i'm sorry

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and by the way the questions that you

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guys sent

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had some

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serious sense of practicality a cat

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piece on my rope how bad is that or a

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dog peed on my rope how bad is that if

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you have a dry rope

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we test it with human pee

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because i mean if you're on a multi

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picture you have to go

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so you actually did the testing on this

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yes and

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the answer is no it's not dangerous i

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wonder if cats pee or dog's pee is more

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aggressive than a human pee hey

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let's go do some science so this is

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where the rope testing magic happens and

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this is where you get those six seven

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eight or whatever falls on the rope

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exactly yeah statistics the scenario is

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like really really hard like we have a

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fall factor of around 1.7

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we test the ropes with the 80 kilogram

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steel mass which is like super static

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what are the forces on standard tests

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for a single rope it's around like 8 to

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9 kn for the first on the edge for the

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first fall and we had the first problem

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so called standard rope test that every

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manufacturer does is super extreme in

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order to make it more like a real

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climbing fall we needed to reduce it

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below 4 kilonewtons and if you ask why 4

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it means that you haven't seen these two

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videos where we tried to create their

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hardest real climbing falls and measure

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the forces of them

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that's why i said like maybe we try like

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with a new rope to get like a feeling

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like what falling height we need to have

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like around this less than 4k and then

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we switch to europe

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don't look guess 2km 2k

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i think it's less

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wow two and a half as i said these guys

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are really good it took only one fall

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and we got the force of two and a half

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kilonewtons on a brand new rope and that

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was perfect because we were estimating

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that once we swapped the ropes to the

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old one the force will go slightly

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higher because all the ropes don't

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absorb the impact as well and it's going

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to be a perfect representation of

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realistic

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hard climbing fall so here's the tricky

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part

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when you fall on rock

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[Music]

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sometimes it happens but almost the same

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spot hits the

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top carabiner yeah

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and now the tricky part is how to place

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that spot that it would be on a peak

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force on the carbonyl

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[Music]

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not easy or heart disease as you can

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imagine once the fall happens the rope

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stretches and that soft spot that we are

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trying to hit will move

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[Music]

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you thought it's gonna be easy

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no no

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i knew it will be exactly like this the

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force to the rope will start increasing

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increasing increasing increasing

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increasing and at some point reaches the

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maximum and then the force will start

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dropping dropping dropping dropping

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dropping

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so the challenge is how to position the

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soft spot

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that it would move over the quick draw

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as close to the peak of the force with

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this

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small forward scenario a new rope oh

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it's about like what 400

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300 400 500 right

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a lot so neuro would hold about 400

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falls on realistic fall yeah let's see

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what happens if we put that damaged rope

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and see

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if it's hundreds or it's just few

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vietnam

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[Music]

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do you think we will hit that spot or we

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will be very far off

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i think we hit it yeah

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where is it now like 30 centimeters

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below

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yeah it's around here now

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and the rope is tense so probably this

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will move up

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and

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how much we will see

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[Music]

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so we overshoot the soft spot just by a

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little bit so we will try to readjust

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now and

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see if we can hit it more perfectly

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[Music]

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so we managed to hit the spot

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at

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2.47 kilonewtons of force now we will

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try to increase the fall a little bit to

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get to really hard falls 20 30

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centimeters

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let's see if we will still stay in

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the damaged spot where it will just

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stretch over

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so we broke the shift

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we broke the shift after two falls

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and you said it's gonna last

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no but that's what i said like the

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sheath will break

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by force

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the force was

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only two points

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only 2.1 kilonewtons and the shift

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broken

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so

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if your rope is

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soft good luck

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if the sheath is already damaged like we

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saw it like now this will lead like to

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cut its sheath like immediately but the

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the good thing is that the rope will not

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slap snap

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because the core strands like are

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still intact so how many falls it would

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take now to completely snap the rope

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that's a good question i never tested

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this

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but we could do this i guess we can do

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at least like two or three folds now

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only on the course yes yes guess how

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many falls it's going to take

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20 20 yeah wow so it took only two falls

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to completely shrink this sheath but the

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good thing is like a rope is constructed

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in a way that the sheath only takes

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around like 10 to 20

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of the load

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and the rest like the the

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load bearing structure is basically only

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the core

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okay so

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the question is if you take a rope and

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you squeeze it so you feel that it's

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soft completely outside does it mean

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that the core is damaged or no no no

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because a lot of properties think that

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it's damaged inside the core is still

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intact like if i would cut the rope at

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that spot would i find some damage

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inside of the core strands it's

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difficult to say because over time the

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core strands also when we do fall tests

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you can see that it gets a little bit

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more hairy

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if you would cut it open but it's just

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a couple of filaments that might have

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broken but it's not that an entire core

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strand is broken but it's weakened for

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sure

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let's see if we can snap this room now

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yeah so how many phones you set

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i don't know

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10 to 20 10 to 20. let's see so

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this is one multifilament multifilament

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made out of multiple filaments yes

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how much

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280. this is 280 inside of this so if i

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would take one

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what force that one thing would hold

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well you would not test it like this

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because a multifilament you look at it

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as the entire thing but what i can tell

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you that this core strand

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would hold 180 kilos and we are not even

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reaching very hard falls yet this is

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nothing

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so you said 20 how many strands are

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inside

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[Music]

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two of eight

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so you set 20 false and we have 10 to 20

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20. apart from standard drop tests what

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are other tests that are performed on

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climbing ropes what we usually do is

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also test the abrasion resistance of the

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rope so there we have an in-house

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developed testing method so it's a

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machine which pulls a rope over a sharp

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metal edge and we are counting how many

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cycles it takes for actually damaging

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the shaft

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[Music]

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we have like two parts now broken so we

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have one part and two parts broken yeah

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if we talk about abrasion resistant i

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have some interesting stuff to show is

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200 cycles so 200 times

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back and forth here you see a classic

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rope so it does not have any treatment

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impregnation it's a 9.5 it's pretty worn

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out it is worn out it's at the point

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where i would consider maybe even

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cutting this yes and you should then

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next to it we have

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also 9.5 but it has the dry treatment

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what that's a huge difference yes that's

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exactly the same rope but just dry treat

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it yes that's a huge huge difference

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it feels a little bit burnt like when

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you

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touch it

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it definitely got hot

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like on the edge

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so your six lives got a bit damaged but

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that's good to know and you can climb

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you can climb you would climb on this i

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mean the brits

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was done by jean villanova like with a

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sheet colored rope like from the

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beginning on i think in the second pitch

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of that pitch he had a stone fall and

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his rope already got cut like the sheet

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was completely damaged and he did the

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whole fits reverse with this rope then

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he like repaired a lot over it does the

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percentage of sheaf versus core strands

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it's not always the same in sport

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climbing ropes yeah or like climbing

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ropes in general it's not always the

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same now

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and what does it depend on well for us

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it depends on what kind of rope we want

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to make sport climbing

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wait let me show you something show me

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something okay so you have the interplay

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of both the percentage of material that

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is the chef but also

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how the chef was constructed for example

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here on this rope we have more chef

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twines so

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if you would count these

00:13:27.839 --> 00:13:31.440
singular ones they are much more than on

00:13:31.440 --> 00:13:33.440
this chef oh yeah that's almost double

00:13:33.440 --> 00:13:34.639
no

00:13:34.639 --> 00:13:37.360
no no it isn't but it's just a slight

00:13:37.360 --> 00:13:39.600
difference but if you check out the

00:13:39.600 --> 00:13:40.959
surface

00:13:40.959 --> 00:13:44.800
you can see that here the little cubes

00:13:44.800 --> 00:13:47.600
that they form are smaller

00:13:47.600 --> 00:13:51.600
than on this one so here we have a super

00:13:51.600 --> 00:13:54.399
fine surface of the of the chef so if

00:13:54.399 --> 00:13:56.959
you for example would touch this one it

00:13:56.959 --> 00:13:59.120
feels much rougher yeah

00:13:59.120 --> 00:14:00.880
so this is also what makes it more

00:14:00.880 --> 00:14:03.839
durable

00:14:10.160 --> 00:14:12.240
so we are still very far from twenty but

00:14:12.240 --> 00:14:14.839
what's the maybe i get some coffee

00:14:14.839 --> 00:14:18.320
huh it was already 3.4 yeah it's

00:14:18.320 --> 00:14:20.399
increasing and increasing so the dynamic

00:14:20.399 --> 00:14:22.160
performance of the rope gets low and

00:14:22.160 --> 00:14:24.720
lower and lower this one here is our

00:14:24.720 --> 00:14:26.959
workhorse construction it does not have

00:14:26.959 --> 00:14:29.440
any treatment but we're using the best

00:14:29.440 --> 00:14:31.920
and the finest yarns that we have to

00:14:31.920 --> 00:14:35.040
make this construction and it also i

00:14:35.040 --> 00:14:37.680
would say you know it's as good as the

00:14:37.680 --> 00:14:39.680
dry rope so why

00:14:39.680 --> 00:14:41.920
not all ropes are made this way where we

00:14:41.920 --> 00:14:43.600
have finer

00:14:43.600 --> 00:14:46.320
construction because price matters yeah

00:14:46.320 --> 00:14:48.720
now i would like to see not 200 cycles

00:14:48.720 --> 00:14:53.040
but 1 000. yes they come here oh really

00:14:53.040 --> 00:14:57.440
not the 2000 but the 500. i would climb

00:14:57.440 --> 00:14:58.720
with

00:14:58.720 --> 00:15:01.360
this one and with this one or if i have

00:15:01.360 --> 00:15:04.560
a risky day i would choose this

00:15:04.560 --> 00:15:06.399
do you have risky days

00:15:06.399 --> 00:15:10.639
sometimes turns out size or diameter is

00:15:10.639 --> 00:15:13.199
not all that matters when we talk about

00:15:13.199 --> 00:15:16.000
durability construction and extra

00:15:16.000 --> 00:15:18.880
treatments might have a bigger impact

00:15:18.880 --> 00:15:21.040
it's a crazy difference now having in

00:15:21.040 --> 00:15:22.880
mind that all of them will run through

00:15:22.880 --> 00:15:25.040
the same process to the point where

00:15:25.040 --> 00:15:28.240
super thin 9.0 millimeters rope looked

00:15:28.240 --> 00:15:31.360
completely fine after 500 of cycles of

00:15:31.360 --> 00:15:33.600
dragging it across the sharp edge this

00:15:33.600 --> 00:15:35.360
one looks quite good

00:15:35.360 --> 00:15:37.279
like a little bit fuzzy but i would

00:15:37.279 --> 00:15:40.120
definitely use it however much thicker

00:15:40.120 --> 00:15:43.279
9.5 millimeters rope but old

00:15:43.279 --> 00:15:46.000
construction and no treatments were

00:15:46.000 --> 00:15:47.519
completely

00:15:47.519 --> 00:15:48.240
done

00:15:48.240 --> 00:15:51.839
my guess is five more falls and we

00:15:52.839 --> 00:15:55.440
snapped think we have to increase

00:15:55.440 --> 00:15:57.839
otherwise yeah let's increase everybody

00:15:57.839 --> 00:16:00.000
wants harder falls but it's already

00:16:00.000 --> 00:16:01.759
getting harder we went yeah two and a

00:16:01.759 --> 00:16:03.839
half to three and a half yeah to

00:16:03.839 --> 00:16:06.000
increase

00:16:06.000 --> 00:16:08.079
you can't just dropping keep dropping

00:16:08.079 --> 00:16:11.279
yeah keep dropping and we'll get coffee

00:16:11.279 --> 00:16:15.519
what do you want coffee espresso

00:16:15.519 --> 00:16:17.600
are you asking the viewer with milk are

00:16:17.600 --> 00:16:20.480
you sending me yes

00:16:20.639 --> 00:16:23.040
one interesting observation i got while

00:16:23.040 --> 00:16:25.759
i was making this intro animation

00:16:25.759 --> 00:16:27.839
which by the way took me multiple days

00:16:27.839 --> 00:16:29.600
and multiple attempts

00:16:29.600 --> 00:16:32.720
was that while the rope is new

00:16:32.720 --> 00:16:35.360
the file glides over the rope very

00:16:35.360 --> 00:16:37.920
smoothly and it's pretty hard to make

00:16:37.920 --> 00:16:40.320
any damage to it but once the rope

00:16:40.320 --> 00:16:43.600
starts becoming fuzzy it becomes easier

00:16:43.600 --> 00:16:46.320
to make some extra damage so it felt

00:16:46.320 --> 00:16:47.440
like the

00:16:47.440 --> 00:16:49.839
fuzziness or the damage to the rope is

00:16:49.839 --> 00:16:52.320
kind of exponential the worse it gets

00:16:52.320 --> 00:16:55.440
the easier it is to make it even worse

00:16:55.440 --> 00:16:57.440
oh yeah let's do again all these six

00:16:57.440 --> 00:16:59.279
tracks left

00:16:59.279 --> 00:17:00.880
whoa so

00:17:00.880 --> 00:17:01.920
okay

00:17:01.920 --> 00:17:04.079
so you can come back already with your

00:17:04.079 --> 00:17:07.120
coffee so the force went lower but one

00:17:07.120 --> 00:17:08.959
strand snapped

00:17:08.959 --> 00:17:11.520
too snapped but the sound of the strand

00:17:11.520 --> 00:17:13.439
snapping was good

00:17:13.439 --> 00:17:16.160
is it bad if i scream behind the camera

00:17:16.160 --> 00:17:17.760
it's not the sound that you want to hear

00:17:17.760 --> 00:17:19.679
when you're out climbing

00:17:19.679 --> 00:17:23.199
okay the fun part how fuzzy is too fuzzy

00:17:23.199 --> 00:17:26.319
or how soft the rope is too soft when

00:17:26.319 --> 00:17:29.039
should people actually cut it i mean you

00:17:29.039 --> 00:17:31.039
pull the rope through your hands how to

00:17:31.039 --> 00:17:33.280
to check the ropes this you should do on

00:17:33.280 --> 00:17:35.120
a regular basis and what are you doing

00:17:35.120 --> 00:17:37.039
when you're pulling well on the one hand

00:17:37.039 --> 00:17:40.080
i feel the rope so i feel the how the

00:17:40.080 --> 00:17:43.360
rope behaves if it's super soft if it's

00:17:43.360 --> 00:17:45.280
thicker and at the same time you know

00:17:45.280 --> 00:17:47.840
you you pull it over your finger and you

00:17:47.840 --> 00:17:50.000
look at it so you do like a visual

00:17:50.000 --> 00:17:52.640
inspection

00:17:56.799 --> 00:17:59.120
beautiful rope wood whip

00:17:59.120 --> 00:18:01.919
would you whip you would whip you would

00:18:01.919 --> 00:18:04.880
see oh the force went lower again

00:18:04.880 --> 00:18:06.720
so basically the less core strands we

00:18:06.720 --> 00:18:08.480
have the better the rope is the softer

00:18:08.480 --> 00:18:10.880
the catch

00:18:11.440 --> 00:18:13.679
i wouldn't see it that way but

00:18:13.679 --> 00:18:15.679
if you want a soft catch just break the

00:18:15.679 --> 00:18:16.559
rope

00:18:16.559 --> 00:18:18.880
so let's say i'm running my rope through

00:18:18.880 --> 00:18:21.520
my hand and i find that spot which is

00:18:21.520 --> 00:18:24.480
softer so how do i know if it's already

00:18:24.480 --> 00:18:25.600
bad

00:18:25.600 --> 00:18:28.400
or first consider the whole rope i mean

00:18:28.400 --> 00:18:30.320
if you have a really soft rope because

00:18:30.320 --> 00:18:31.919
they're hard i mean some ropes are

00:18:31.919 --> 00:18:34.080
already soft when you you buy them in

00:18:34.080 --> 00:18:36.240
the store huh i would say the hour ropes

00:18:36.240 --> 00:18:38.880
are a little bit stiffer in general and

00:18:38.880 --> 00:18:40.000
we do that to make them more

00:18:40.000 --> 00:18:42.320
long-lasting but if your whole rope is

00:18:42.320 --> 00:18:44.080
very soft and you have a spot which is

00:18:44.080 --> 00:18:46.559
just a little bit softer

00:18:46.559 --> 00:18:48.880
i would say i would not like say oh

00:18:48.880 --> 00:18:50.960
that's super dangerous huh but if you

00:18:50.960 --> 00:18:51.679
have

00:18:51.679 --> 00:18:53.600
the rope is generally really stiff and

00:18:53.600 --> 00:18:56.000
then you have one spot with this ultra

00:18:56.000 --> 00:18:57.440
soft then you know

00:18:57.440 --> 00:19:00.320
something is not right there and exactly

00:19:00.320 --> 00:19:02.080
what's not right there

00:19:02.080 --> 00:19:04.880
hey there is so many things that it

00:19:04.880 --> 00:19:07.280
could be so as an example if i would be

00:19:07.280 --> 00:19:09.760
just looking into this piece of the rope

00:19:09.760 --> 00:19:11.840
it would be pretty difficult to say how

00:19:11.840 --> 00:19:14.640
soft it needs to be and if i should cut

00:19:14.640 --> 00:19:15.360
it

00:19:15.360 --> 00:19:16.400
but

00:19:16.400 --> 00:19:18.559
if i compare it to the middle of the

00:19:18.559 --> 00:19:21.280
same rope i can clearly see a big

00:19:21.280 --> 00:19:24.240
difference so this clearly is far from

00:19:24.240 --> 00:19:26.400
what it used to be and it's better to

00:19:26.400 --> 00:19:28.880
cut this end and if you want some tips

00:19:28.880 --> 00:19:33.039
on cutting ropes check out this video

00:19:33.980 --> 00:19:35.919
[Music]

00:19:35.919 --> 00:19:38.000
i don't think we can do another one

00:19:38.000 --> 00:19:39.919
unfortunately the rope kept stretching

00:19:39.919 --> 00:19:42.320
and stretching and stretching until we

00:19:42.320 --> 00:19:44.559
almost reached the bottom of the drop

00:19:44.559 --> 00:19:46.559
tower and we couldn't do any more

00:19:46.559 --> 00:19:47.679
testing

00:19:47.679 --> 00:19:50.799
however we decided to show what happens

00:19:50.799 --> 00:19:53.440
if you have 80 kilograms of mass hanging

00:19:53.440 --> 00:19:56.320
on only core strands and you touch the

00:19:56.320 --> 00:19:58.640
core strands with the knife

00:19:58.640 --> 00:20:00.960
test

00:20:04.240 --> 00:20:07.440
it just barely dude

00:20:07.440 --> 00:20:10.480
you went too long

00:20:10.480 --> 00:20:11.760
what happened

00:20:11.760 --> 00:20:14.400
but what happened

00:20:14.559 --> 00:20:16.559
so it didn't broke so i was right with

00:20:16.559 --> 00:20:19.440
10 to 20 right

00:20:19.440 --> 00:20:21.360
yes thanks

00:20:21.360 --> 00:20:24.000
so basically what we got is

00:20:24.000 --> 00:20:28.400
running very damaged rope on relatively

00:20:28.400 --> 00:20:29.600
hard dish

00:20:29.600 --> 00:20:32.159
maybe to normal foil yeah real case

00:20:32.159 --> 00:20:35.200
scenario ripped the sheath of the rope

00:20:35.200 --> 00:20:37.120
in just two falls which is very

00:20:37.120 --> 00:20:38.799
dangerous but then it was good to see

00:20:38.799 --> 00:20:41.039
that the rope did not snapped

00:20:41.039 --> 00:20:43.840
and only the core strands kept holding

00:20:43.840 --> 00:20:44.880
for

00:20:44.880 --> 00:20:48.720
multiple more falls so

00:20:48.960 --> 00:20:51.200
but when he touched barely with the

00:20:51.200 --> 00:20:53.120
sharp knife the core strands he just

00:20:53.120 --> 00:20:55.520
barely touched it it snapped

00:20:55.520 --> 00:20:57.039
so if your

00:20:57.039 --> 00:20:58.720
shift gets away

00:20:58.720 --> 00:21:01.039
and then your rope runs across something

00:21:01.039 --> 00:21:03.200
sharp on the rock super dangerous

00:21:03.200 --> 00:21:04.240
yeah

00:21:04.240 --> 00:21:05.840
i think now we're coming to the second

00:21:05.840 --> 00:21:07.919
scenario you wanna you wanna show when

00:21:07.919 --> 00:21:10.400
it comes to sharp edge scenarios yeah

00:21:10.400 --> 00:21:13.760
like the ropes don't have this high

00:21:13.760 --> 00:21:16.159
safety margin

00:21:16.159 --> 00:21:18.720
i hope that you are subscribed because

00:21:18.720 --> 00:21:20.799
the next experiment that i'm gonna show

00:21:20.799 --> 00:21:23.280
in the next video is gonna blow your

00:21:23.280 --> 00:21:26.559
mind and probably change a little bit

00:21:26.559 --> 00:21:28.799
the way you care about your climbing

00:21:28.799 --> 00:21:30.720
equipment

00:21:30.720 --> 00:21:34.480
okay now i need you to pee

00:21:34.480 --> 00:21:37.799
come on