9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) So, you've ridden [br]a gondola in Venice, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 eaten gelato in Florence, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 you think you've seen Italy; 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 you haven't. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 No one earns that badge[br]till they've been to Naples. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Naples is not for the faint of hearts, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 it's crowded, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 chaotic, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and tatted up. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 But man, does this place has soul! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 It's full of characters 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and around every corner 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 it's a diamond in the rough. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 That's what kept me coming back here 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 for two decades. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 And just when I think [br]I've gotten a hand along her, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 she surprises me. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 So, this time, I've come with backup. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - (Nicole) Buongiorno.[br]- (Francesca) Buongiorno, Nicole. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) I'm heading[br]the historic quarter with Francesca, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 my woman on the inside. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 She's a local expert with context, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 guiding urban explorers[br]who want to go deeper. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 In this area is where[br]I first fell in love with Naples 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - because it is full of life, right?[br]- (Francesca) Yeah, scooters! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Laughter) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - (Nicole) it's never boring![br]- (Francesca) That's true! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) Never boring! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music)[br](Nicole) I'm here on a mission. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 In our last episode,[br]I spent a day in Amalfi 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 where I discovered how lemons 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 are literally saving [br]the town from disaster. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Now, I'm in the big city, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 to learn how lemons have inspired[br]Italian cooking and culture. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 After the requisite coffee -- 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (speaking Italian) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 we start at the beginning. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) Naples was first settled[br]by the ancient Greeks, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 this was the site of the Agora, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and later the Roman forum. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Francesca shows me[br]two Corinthians columns, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 lone survivors of a first century temple, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 incorporated into de facade[br]of a XVII century church. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 This is what exciting about Naples, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 it's a haphazard layered cake of stories; 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 stories you can [br]walk right up to and touch, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 if you know what you're looking at. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 To outsiders, Naples can seem incrustable, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 it's hard to know where[br]history ends and myth begins, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 where faith fuses with superstition. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Just look at these [br]hand-made nativity scenes, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 a quintessential Neapolitan fixation. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 You got modern day figures[br]witnessing the virgin birth, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and there, under the terracota produce 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 I spot them -- 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 This was very typical, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 there were people selling in the streets 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 fresh lemon juice. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 And those lemons would have[br]come up from the coast. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 The lemons are form Amalfi[br]and from Sorrento. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) All these fake lemons[br]make me crave the real thing, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 so we head over to Cafeteria Hipolito[br]where they have -- 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Delizie al limone -- the lemon delight. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 We use a lot of lemons. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Actually, we have [br]a lot of lemons in our gardens - 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - (Nicole) Yes![br]- (Francesca) and our balconies. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 There were a lot of monastery cloisters[br]that had these plants, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 also because they were considered[br]like healing plants. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - (Nicole) Yes, medicinal, right?[br]- (Francesca) Medicinal. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) I think we should have [br]a little bit of medicine, then, shall we? 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 I think we should. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) Thank you! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 This looks like... a sugar bomb![br](Laughter) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Layers of sponge cake[br]filled with lemon cream, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 covered with chantilly cream. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Okay, so delizie al limone, [br]not really my thing, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 a little bit too sugary, [br]a little bit too creamy, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 but it was fun, it's lemons,[br]that's what we're doing here, right? 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Luckily, it's nearly lunch time. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 We're headed to a friend's apartment, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 where Francesca has arranged[br]for me to learn from a local chef 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 a perfect Neapolitan summer dish, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 but of course, we can't arrive[br]empty-handed. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 This is a salumeria from 1864,[br]let's check it out! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - (woman) Oops![br]- (Nicole) Excuse me. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (speaking in Italian) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) Thank you! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 We got our cheese, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 our bread, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and lemons. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 And this being Naples, we bought them all[br]from specialty purveyors, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 who's been doing this forever. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 It's time for spaghetti[br]al limone! Andiamo! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 We arrived at a friend's [br]fabulous apartment 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 to cook with Antonio, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 who's whipped up dishes [br]and top kitchens in Italy and England. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Antonio) Ciao![br](Laughter) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 This is spaghetti al limone! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 A dish that Neapolitans crave[br]when summer hits 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and lemons are at their peak. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 To make it you'll need: 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Antonio) Double cream, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 parmesan, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 dry red chilies, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 garlic, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 butter, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 lemons from Sorrento, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 parsley, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 and obviously the linguine. Let's go! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) Okay, half zest,[br]half juice of the lemon. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Music) 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Antonio) All right.[br](Nicole) More? 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Antonio) Go, go, go --[br](Nicole) Okay, okay -- 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 You can't have too much lemon! 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Antonio) Yeah, specially if they are[br]from the Amalfi coast. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Nicole) Oh, yeah -- 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 And everything right into the cream? 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 - (Antonio) Yeah.[br]- (Nicole) Okay. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 (Antonio) And the reason to do that[br]is because we don't want to cook the zest, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 because it's already bitter, 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 if you cook it, it'll be even more bitter. 9:59:59.000,9:59:59.000 Perfect.